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Codification

DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

Document issued by

Campus Heavy Stitching Laboratory


DECATHLON Campus
4 Bd de Mons BP 299
59665 Villeneuve d’Ascq
FRANCE

DS160: TENSILE TEST ON SEAM ASSEMBLIES


OVER FLEXIBLE MATERIAL SHEETS
DS160: KIỂM TRA LỰC KÉO TRÊN CÁC ĐƯỜNG
MAY TRÊN CÁC LỚP NPL ĐA DẠNG

.
Written by Function Date/Signature

Elizabeth ARISTIZABAL Testing engineer 29/06/2015 Original signed

Checked by Function Date/Signature

Aline PENOT Testing engineer 29/06/2015 Original signed

Garry CARTON Testing engineer 29/06/2015 Original signed

Approved by Function Date/Signature

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

Laurent DHULU Laboratory Manager 29/06/2015 Original signed

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

COPYRIGHT WARNING
All mentioned external reference standards shall be owned by the user of this document.

PURPOSE MỤC ĐÍCH

This document is an internal Test Standard. It contains the general test requirements which are applicable in
all the internal or external laboratories where the tests are carried out.
Tài liệu này là tiêu chuẩn test nội bộ. Bao gồm các yêu cầu test chung áp dụng cho tất cả phòng thí nghiệm
nội bộ hay bên ngoài nơi tiến hành test
When stated, this document defines the useful criteria to establish the conformity of a product or a
component.
Tài liệu xác định tiêu chí hữu ích để cho đồng nhất sản phẩm và nguyên phụ liệu
This document aims to harmonize choices and possible interpretations of the international test standards.
Mục đích này làm hài hòa và phù hợp với các tiêu chuẩn test quốc tế.
This document does not contain the detailed modalities of implementation of the tests,regarding to s
specific test equipments and accommodations of the Laboratory. These modalities must appear in Work
Instructions written locally by every laboratory.
Tài liệu này không bao gồm các phương thức thực hiện test cụ thể chi tiết, liên quan đến các công cụ
test và địa điểm phòng Lab. Có quy trình hướng dẫn bằng tiếng việt tại nơi làm việc

OBJECT AND SCOPE


MỤC TIÊU VÀ PHẠM VI

The object of this standard is to measure the strength in Newtons of seam assemblies of flexible materials
sheets. The test can be performed over finished or semi-finished products.
Mục tiêu của tiêu chuẩn này là thước đo độ bền của tính bằng newton của các đường may trên các lớp
nguyên phụ liệu đa dạng. Thí nghiệm có thể thực hiện trên bán thành phẩm hay hàng thành phẩm

MODIFICATIONS FOLLOW-UP
Sửa đổi tiếp theo

Version Cancel and supersedes Applicable since Modifications


Ấn bản Hủy và thay thế Ngày áp dụng Sửa đổi bổ sung
A Creation 02/11/05

B A 13/01/06 Addition of failure code/Validity of the tests/Wordings


Cập nhật mã lỗi/ hiệu chuẩn các test / văn bản
Add details for requirements on traction device
Bổ sung các yêu cầu thiết bị test kéo
Add a tolerance for test speed and initial distance between
C B 30/06/09
jaws
Bổ sung dung sai tốc độ và khoảng cách tiếp xúc giữa hai
hàm
Add a new test NR3 light components (assemblies with at
least one light component under 170 g/m², especially
components and accessories for tents)
Bổ sung test NR3 mới nhất đối với NPL trọng lượng
nhẹ ( ít nhất dưới 170g/m2 , đặc biệt đối với NPL
dành cho sx lều bạt )
D C 29/09/09 Add specific distance between jaws and pictures in NR3
Khoảng cách tiếp xúc giữa hai hàm chính xác xem hình
NR3

Test 4 added.
E D 08/06/15 Definition of breaking point. Description of the tests,
Definition of equipments.
Bổ sung test 4
Xác định vị trí đứt. Miêu tả trong các test
Xác định các thiết bị
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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

DIFFUSION MODE
Hình thức nhân rộng

 simple communication (mail) to Thông tin mail


 need new authorisation to perform test được ủy quyền mới thực hiện kiểm tra

CONTENTS
Nôi dung
Test 1: Seam assembly of two fabrics
Test 1: Đường may hai lớp vải 3
Test 2: Seam assembly of at least one fabric with an accessory
Test 2: Đường may với 1 lớp vải với phụ liệu 9
2
Test 3: Seam assembly of at least two light fabrics (at least one under 170g/m )
Test 3: Đường may ít nhất với 2 lớp vải trọng lượng nhẹ ( dưới 170g/m2) 14
Test 4: Seam assembly of a fabric with a sleeve
Test 4: Đường may trên tay áo 20

TERMES AND DEFINITIONS

Điều khoản và định nghĩa

Sleeve: Cylinder made with a flexible material sheet used to getting through any long piece, such a rope, a
tube, etc

Tay áo: trục lăn làm bằng lớp nguyên liệu linh hoạt sử dụng để xỏ qua lớp vải dài, như dây thừng, ống,
vân..vân

Seam: A line along which two pieces of fabric are sewn together in a garment or other article.

Đường may: là đường may dọc theo 2 lớp vải trên sản phẩm

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

TEST 1: SEAM ASSEMBLY OF TWO FABRICS


TEST 1: ĐƯỜNG MAY HAI LỚP VẢI
REFERENCE STANDARDS
CÁC TIÊU CHUẨN THAM KHẢO
 Domain of coverage and equivalent standard(s)
 Định nghiã bao gồm tiêu chuẩn chung

This standard doesn’t cover or is not equivalent to any other standard(s).


Tiêu chuẩn này không bao gồm hoặc không tương đương với bất kì các tiêu chuẩn khác

 Test principle
 Quy tắc test

The test principle is inspired of international standard(s):


Quy tắc chuẩn lấy từ tiêu chuẩn quốc tế

 ISO 13935-1:2014 Textiles — Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made-up textile articles —
Part 1: Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the strip method.
 NF G92-003:1989 Cartables et sacs d’écoliers. Méthodes d’essais. Détermination de la force à
la rupture des assemblages par couture de matériaux souples en feuilles (films). (Satchels and
school bags. Test methods. Determination of breaking strength of joining by sewing flexible
sheet material).
 Iso 13935-1:2014 Tính chất độ bền các đường may trên những miếng vải để tạo thành các mặt
hàng dệt may
 Phần 1: xác định lực tối đa đứt đường may bằng phương pháp rút
 NF G92-003:1989 ( cặp da và cặp sách. Phương pháp. Xác định cường độ đứt đường may trên
vải đa dạng

The applicable prescriptions and standard interpretations are fully detailed in the following sections.
Tiêu chuẩn áp dụng liệt kê chi tiết theo mục sau đây.
SCOPE
Phạm vi
This Decathlon standard specifies a procedure to determine the breaking force of seams over flexible
materials sheets when the force is applied perpendicularly to the seam.
Tiêu chuẩn Decathlon ghi rõ quy trình xác định lực đứt của các đường may trên những nguyên liệu đ dạng
khi lực tác động vuông góc đến đường may

It is applicable to textile finished or semifinished products. It can be used also over different kind of flexible
materials sheets assembled by seams such as leather, synthetic leather, textile coated with a plastic or a
rubber layer, plastics, etc.
Áp dụng với vải thành phẩm hoặc các bán thành phẩm. Sử dụng trên các nguyên liệu đa dạng khác nhau
nối các đường may như là da, sợi tổng hợp, áo choàng có sử dụng chất dẻo hoặc lớp cao su..vân..vân

OBJECTIVES
Mục Tiêu

The objective is to measure the breaking force of the assembly.


Mục tiêu là thước đo lực đứt đường nối

PRINCIPLE
Quy định

A specimen having a seam in the middle is extended perpendicularly to the seam at a constant rate until
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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E
break. The break strength is recorded.
Mẫu có một đường may ở giữa được kéo dài vuông góc tới đường may mức độ thường xuyên cho đến
khi đứt. Ghi lại độ bền đứt

REQUIREMENTS ON EQUIPMENTS & CONSUMABLES


Các yêu cầu về thiết bị và sử dụng

Test machine:
A universal mechanical-testing machine complying with the requirements of the standard EN ISO
7500-1 with at least class 1 accuracy.
 The universal mechanical-testing machine shall be fitted with a system allowing a continuous
measurement of displacement of the movable device with an accuracy of ± 10%.
 Constant speed 100 mm/min (± 10%) of the moving cross head.
Máy test: 
Máy test cơ universal tuân thủ các yêu cầu tiêu chuẩn EN ISO 7500-1 với cấp độ chính xác ít nhất là 1
Máy thí nghiệm cơ học phải được lắp đặt với hệ thống cho phép đo sự thay đổi chuyển động liên tục
với độ chính xác +/-10%
Tốc độ cố định 100mm/phút(+/-10%) vòng đầu
Test specimen support:
 The jaws must be width of (50±1)mm and at least 30mm of height.
The jaw allows the specimen to be in the tensile direction.
The clamping device of the machine shall be positioned with the centre of the two jaws in the line of
applied force, the front edges shall be at right angles to the line of applied force and their clamping
faces shall be in the same plane.
The jaws should be able to maintain the specimen without damaging nor letting the specimen to
move.

Miếng lót giữ mẫu test
 Khổ kẹp phải có chiều rộng là (50+/- )mm chiều cao ít nhất 30mm
 Kẹp giúp giữ mẫu ở cùng một hướng kéo
 Thiết bị kẹp của máy phải đặt ở vị trí trọng tâm giữa hai kẹp ở vị trí ngoại lực, các cạnh phía
trước phải nằm đúng góc bên phải ở vị trí lực tác động, và bề mặt kẹp phải ở vị trí phẳng
 Các kẹp giữ mẫu không bị hư hỏng hay dịch chuyển

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

Cutting device:
Thiết bị cắt

 Cutting template shall respect following dimensions (accuracy 1mm) (cf. picture 1).
Mẫu cắt phải đảm bảo các kích thước sau đây ( chính xác +/-1mm) ( Trang 1 )

Assembly
line

Picture 1: Cutting template * Dimensions in mm

REQUIREMENTS ON OPERATORS
None.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS
The test has to be carried out in the following conditions: temperature of (20 ±2) °C and a relative humidity of
(65 ± 4) % or (23 +/- 2)°C and (50 +/- 5) % relative humidity. The environmental conditions shall appear in the test
report.

SAMPLE PREPARATION
Specimens must be conditioned at least 12 hours in environmental conditions (see on top).

Cut 3 specimens for each tested assembly. If is not possible to test 3 specimens, it shall be notified in the
test report.

Picture 2: Sample cutting

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

Draw the jaws lines to (501)mm from the middle over each sample.

Jaws lines
Assembly
line

Picture 3. Sample with jaws lines

If the size of the sample can not be respected, it shall be notified in the test report.

TEST PROTOCOL REQUIREMENTS

Specimen shall be placed between the grips. Jaws lines are useful to ensure the good placement of
the sample. The seam shall be centred between the jaws.
 Displacement rate of the mobile jaw: (100 ±10) mm/min
The force shall be applied perpendicularly to the seam.
 Initial distance between jaws: (100±1) mm
Pre load: 2N at 50mm/min speed
Note: displacement is set to 0 mm when pre-load of 2 N is reached.

Picture 4: Sample test 1

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

>10%
F

dL

IMPORTANT: The breaking point must be defined as a drop of the maximum strength of
10%. Verify the specimen. If there is no visual damage, continue the test.

Validity of the test:

In the following cases, the specimen and result must be discarded and a new specimen shall be tested:

Slipping of the specimen in the jaws


Breaking in the jaws
Breaking within 5mm to the edges of the jaws
Breaking in the angle (cf. picture 5). If after a second test the rupture is still in the angle, do the test
as described in the Test 3 of the present standard.
Rupture in the stitches on the outside (cf. picture 5). If this situation happens, the width of the sample
at the seam must be larger than 100mm.

Angles

Stitches on the
outside

Picture 5: Ruptures not allowed

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

REQUIREMENTS ON EVALUATION OF THE RESULTS

BREAKING FORCE:

Record breaking strength F (rounded to the nearest Newton) for each tested assembly.

 Calculate the average of breaking force F (in Newton) for n ≥ 3:

F
n
k

F k 1
n
Calculate the standard deviation of breaking force (in Newton):

 F 
1 * n
n 1 
Fk  F  2

 k 1

Calculate the relative standard deviation of breaking force (%):
100   F
F 
F
ELONGATION:

Record the elongation L (in % or mm).

 Calculate the average of elongation (in % or mm) for n ≥ 3:

L
L  k 1
n
Calculate the standard deviation of elongation (in % or mm):

 L 
1 * n
n 1 
Lk  L   2

 k 1

Calculate the relative standard deviation of elongation (%):

100   L
 L 
L

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

PRODUCT EVALUATION

The product evaluation shall be done upon applicant requirement or material standard; otherwise no
evaluation is required. Unless specific requirement, each individual result shall be superior or equal to the
requirement (given by the applicant) to declare the sample as conform.

Describe the kind of rupture and the placement of the rupture:

Fabric
Fabric at the assembly
Assembly
Fabric at jaws
Other (specify it)

TEST REPORT

The test report shall contain at least the following information:

 Reference to this DS-160 and version


 Date of the test
 Complete identification of the tested product (name of the tested product, supplier,
manufacturer…)
 Testing speed (mm/min)
 Breaking strength (N) and elongation (mm or %) of each specimen as well as the average
and relative standard deviation
 Description of the rupture
 Any information regarding the progress of the test itself: deviation, deformation or rupture of
the specimen, interruption, pictures, modification, deviation regarding this Decathlon
Standard
 Number of specimens tested for each sample
 If the evaluation was done:
 Note the requirements given by the applicant
 For each sample, note explicitly the conformity or the non-conformity (according to
the specifications in product evaluation) with the following codification:

Conform C
Not Conform NC
Not Applicable NA
Not Tested NT
Not Requested NR

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

TEST 2: SEAM ASSEMBLY OF AT LEAST ONE FABRIC WITH


AN ACCESSORY
REFERENCE STANDARDS
 Domain of coverage and equivalent standard(s)

This standard doesn’t cover or is not equivalent to any other standard(s).


 Test principle

The test principle is inspired of international standard(s):

 ISO 13935-1:2014 Textiles — Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made-up textile articles —
Part 1: Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the strip method.
 NF G92-003:1989 Cartables et sacs d’écoliers. Méthodes d’essais. Détermination de la force à
la rupture des assemblages par couture de matériaux souples en feuilles (films). (Satchels and
school bags. Test methods. Determination of breaking strength of joining by sewing flexible
sheet material).

The applicable prescriptions and standard interpretations are fully detailed in the following sections.
SCOPE
This Decathlon standard specifies a procedure to determine the breaking force of seams over flexible
materials sheets with an accessory when the force is applied in the same direction of the accessory.

It is applicable to textile finished or semifinished products. It can be used also over different kind of flexible
materials sheets assembled by seams such as leather, synthetic leather, textile coated with a plastic or a
rubber layer, plastics, etc.

OBJECTIVES

The objective is to measure the breaking force of the seamed assembly between a flexible material sheet
and an accessory.

PRINCIPLE

A flexible material sheet assembled with an accessory is extended at a constant rate until break. The break
strength is recorded.

REQUIREMENTS ON EQUIPMENTS & CONSUMABLES

Test machine:
A universal mechanical-testing machine complying with the requirements of the standard EN ISO
7500-1 with at least class 1 accuracy.
 The universal mechanical-testing machine shall be fitted with a system allowing a continuous
measurement of displacement of the movable device with an accuracy of ± 0.1 mm.
 Constant speed 100 mm/min (± 10%) of the moving cross head.

Test specimen support:


 The jaws must be width of (50±1)mm and at least 30mm of height.
The jaw allows the specimen to be in the tensile direction.
The clamping device of the machine shall be positioned with the centre of the two jaws in the line of
the applied force, the front edges shall be at right angles to the line of applied force and their
clamping faces shall be in the same plane.

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

The jaws should be able to maintain the specimen without damaging nor letting the specimen to
move.

REQUIREMENTS ON OPERATORS
None.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS
The test has to be carried out in the following conditions: temperature of (20 ±2) °C and a relative humidity of
(65 ± 4) % or (23 +/- 2)°C and (50 +/- 5) % relative humidity. The environmental conditions shall appear in the test
report.

SAMPLE PREPARATION
Specimens must be conditioned at least 12 hours in environmental conditions (see on top).

Cut 3 specimens for each tested assembly. If is not possible to test 3 specimens, it shall be notified in the
test report.

If the accessory width is less than 50mm and/or if the flexible material sheet is less than 170g/m 2, do the
cutting as picture 6-a. Otherwise, use picture 6-b.


a >50mm
≥50mm

Picture 6: Sample cutting with accessory. Dimensions are given in mm

For testing as shown in picture 6-b, cutting template must respect an accuracy of 1mm.

Draw the jaws lines to (501)mm from the middle over each sample. If specimen can
not be tested with 100mm between jaws, adapt this distance and place the middle of
the assembly at equal distance to each jaw.

Special cases:

In some cases the assembly of the accessory is not a single seam but a stitching box, a bartack, a buckle, a
double seam, etc. In those cases, be sure that the middle of that specific assembly is at 50mm from this
specific assembly.

It is possible that the length of the accessory is less than 80mm (50mm from the assembly to the jaws lines
and at least 30mm to hold the accessory inside the jaws). The jaws lines should get closer to the assembly
line on the accessory side, being sure that they are 30mm left at the extremity to hold it inside the jaws.

The distance used shall be recorded in the test report.

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

x 50

50 x

Picture 7: Test 2 - Special cases

TEST PROTOCOL REQUIREMENTS

Specimen shall be placed in the grips. Jaws lines are useful to ensure the good placement of the
sample. The force is applied in the direction of the accessory.
 Initial distance between jaws: (100±1) mm or adapted to the assembly and accessory tested.
 Displacement rate of the mobile jaw: (100 ±10) mm/min
Pre load: 2N at 50mm/min speed
Note: displacement is set to 0 mm when pre-load of 2 N is reached.

IMPORTANT: The breaking point must be defined as a drop of the maximum strength of
10%. Verify the specimen. If there is no visual damage, continue the test.

Validity of the test:

In the following cases, the specimen and result must be discarded and a new specimen shall be tested:

Slipping of the specimen in the jaws


Breaking in the jaws
Breaking within 5mm to the edges of the jaws
Breaking in the angle (cf picture 5). If after a second test the rupture is in the angle, do the test as
described in the test 3 of the present standard.

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

REQUIREMENTS ON EVALUATION OF THE RESULTS

BREAKING FORCE:

Record breaking strength F (rounded to the nearest Newton) for each tested assembly.

 Calculate the average of breaking force F (in Newton) for n ≥ 3:

F
n
k

F k 1
n
Calculate the standard deviation of breaking force (in Newton):

 F 
1 * n
n 1 
Fk  F  2

 k 1

Calculate the relative standard deviation of breaking force (%):
100   F
F 
F
ELONGATION:

Record the elongation L (in % or mm) for each tested assembly.

 Calculate the average of elongation (in % or mm) for n ≥ 3:

L
L  k 1
n
Calculate the standard deviation of elongation (in % or mm):

 L 
1 * n
n 1 
Lk  L   2

 k 1

Calculate the relative standard deviation of elongation (%):

100   L
 L 
L

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

PRODUCT EVALUATION

The product evaluation shall be done upon applicant requirement or material standard; otherwise no
evaluation is required. Unless specific requirement, each individual result shall be superior or equal to the
requirement (given by the applicant) to declare the sample as conform.

Describe the kind of rupture and the placement of the rupture:

Fabric
Fabric at the assembly
Assembly
Fabric at jaws
Accessory
Other (please specify)

TEST REPORT

The test report shall contain at least the following information:

 Reference to this DS-160 and version


 Date of the test
 Complete identification of the tested product (name of the tested product, supplier,
manufacturer…)
 Testing speed (mm/min)
 Breaking strength (N) and elongation (mm or %) of each specimen as well as the average
and relative standard deviation
 Description of the rupture
 Any information regarding the progress of the test itself: deviation, deformation or rupture of
the specimen, interruption, pictures, modification, deviation regarding this Decathlon
Standard
 Number of specimens tested for each sample
 If the evaluation was done:
 Note the requirements given by the applicant
 For each sample, note explicitly the conformity or the non-conformity (according to
the specifications in product evaluation) with the following codification:

Conform C
Not Conform NC
Not Applicable NA
Not Tested NT
Not Requested NR

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

TEST 3: SEAM ASSEMBLY OF AT LEAST TWO LIGHT FABRICS


(AT LEAST ONE UNDER 170G/M2)
REFERENCE STANDARDS
 Domain of coverage and equivalent standard(s)

This standard doesn’t cover or is not equivalent to any other standard(s).


 Test principle

The test principle is inspired of international standard(s):

 ISO 13935-1:2014 Textiles — Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made-up textile articles —
Part 1: Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the strip method.
 NF G92-003:1989 Cartables et sacs d’écoliers. Méthodes d’essais. Détermination de la force à
la rupture des assemblages par couture de matériaux souples en feuilles (films). (Satchels and
school bags. Test methods. Determination of breaking strength of joining by sewing flexible
sheet material).

The applicable prescriptions and standard interpretations are fully detailed in the following sections.

SCOPE
This Decathlon standard specifies a procedure to determine the maximum force of seams over light flexible
materials sheets (at least one under 170g/m 2) when the force is applied perpendicularly to the seam.

It is applicable to textile finished or semifinished products. It can be used also over different kind of flexible
materials sheets assembled by seams such as leather, synthetic leather, textile coated with a plastic or a
rubber layer, plastics, etc.

OBJECTIVES

The objective is to measure the breaking force of the assembly.

PRINCIPLE

A specimen having a seam in the middle is extended perpendicularly to the seam at a constant rate until
break. The break strength is recorded.

REQUIREMENTS ON EQUIPMENTS & CONSUMABLES

Test machine:
A universal mechanical-testing machine complying with the requirements of the standard EN ISO
7500-1 with at least class 1 accuracy.
 The universal mechanical-testing machine shall be fitted with a system allowing a continuous
measurement of displacement of the movable device with an accuracy of ± 0.1 mm.
 Constant speed 100 mm/min (± 10%) of the moving cross head.

Test specimen support:


 The jaws must be width of (50±1)mm and at least 30mm of height.
The jaw allows the specimen to be in the tensile direction.
The clamping device of the machine shall be positioned with the centre of the two jaws in the line of
applied force, the front edges shall be at right angles to the line of applied force and their clamping
faces shall be in the same plane.
The jaws should be able to maintain the specimen without damaging nor letting the specimen to
move.

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

REQUIREMENTS ON OPERATORS
None.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS
The test has to be carried out in the following conditions: temperature of (20 ±2) °C and a relative humidity of
(65 ± 4) % or (23 +/- 2)°C and (50 +/- 5) % relative humidity. The environmental conditions shall appear in the test
report.

SAMPLE PREPARATION
Specimens must be conditioned at least 12 hours in environmental conditions (see on top).

Cut 3 specimens for each tested assembly (see picture 8). Dimensions: at least 200 mm * 200 mm. These
dimensions will prevent the not allowed ruptures. If is not possible to test 3 specimens, it shall be notified in
the test report.

Picture 8: Test 3 - sample cutting

Draw the jaws lines to (501)mm from the middle over each sample.

5cm
Assembly
line 5cm

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

TEST PROTOCOL REQUIREMENTS

Specimen shall be placed in the grips. Jaws lines are useful to ensure the good placement of the
sample. The seam shall be centred between jaws
 Initial distance between jaws: (100±1) mm
 Displacement rate of the mobile jaw: (100 ±10) mm/min
The force shall be applied perpendicularly to the seam
Pre load: 2N at 50mm/min speed
Note: displacement is set to 0 mm when pre-load of 2 N is reached.

Picture 9: Sample test 3

IMPORTANT: The breaking point must be defined as a drop of the maximum strength of
10%. Verify the specimen. If there is no visual damage, continue the test.

Validity of the test:

In the following cases, the specimen and result must be discarded and a new specimen shall be tested:

Slipping of the specimen in the jaws


Breaking in the jaws
Breaking within 5mm to the edges of the jaws
Rupture in the stitches on the outside (cf. picture 10). If this situation happens, the test shall be
performed on a specimen larger than 200mm.

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

Stitches on the
outside

Picture 10: Rupture not allowed

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

REQUIREMENTS ON EVALUATION OF THE RESULTS

BREAKING FORCE:

Record breaking strength F (rounded to the nearest Newton) for each tested assembly.

 Calculate the average of breaking force F (in Newton) for n ≥ 3:

F
n
k

F k 1
n
Calculate the standard deviation of breaking force (in Newton):

 F 
1 * n
n 1 
Fk  F  2

 k 1

Calculate the relative standard deviation of breaking force (%):
100   F
F 
F
ELONGATION:

Record the elongation L (in % or mm) for each tested assembly.

 Calculate the average of elongation (in % or mm) for n ≥ 3:

L
L  k 1
n
Calculate the standard deviation of elongation (in % or mm):

 L 
1 * n
n 1 
Lk  L   2

 k 1

Calculate the relative standard deviation of elongation (%):

100   L
 L 
L

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

PRODUCT EVALUATION

The product evaluation shall be done upon applicant requirement or material standard; otherwise no
evaluation is required. Unless specific requirement, each individual result shall be superior or equal to the
requirement (given by the applicant) to declare the sample as conform.

Describe the kind of rupture and the placement of the rupture:

Fabric
Fabric at the assembly
Assembly
Fabric at jaws
Other (please specify)

TEST REPORT

The test report shall contain at least the following information:

 Reference to this DS-160 and version


 Date of the test
 Complete identification of the tested product (name of the tested product, supplier,
manufacturer…)
 Testing speed (mm/min)
 Breaking strength (N) and elongation (mm or %) of each specimen as well as the average
and relative standard deviation
 Description of the rupture
 Any information regarding the progress of the test itself: deviation, deformation or rupture of
the specimen, interruption, pictures, modification, deviation regarding this Decathlon
Standard
 Number of specimens tested for each sample
 If the evaluation was done:
 Note the requirements given by the applicant
 For each sample, note explicitly the conformity or the non-conformity (according to
the specifications in product evaluation) with the following codification:

Conform C
Not Conform NC
Not Applicable NA
Not Tested NT
Not Requested NR

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

TEST 4: SEAM ASSEMBLY OF A FABRIC WITH A SLEEVE


REFERENCE STANDARDS
 Domain of coverage and equivalent standard(s)

This standard doesn’t cover or is not equivalent to any other standard(s).


 Test principle

The test principle is inspired of international standard(s):

 ISO 13935-1:2014 Textiles — Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made-up textile articles —
Part 1: Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the strip method.
 NF G92-003:1989 Cartables et sacs d’écoliers. Méthodes d’essais. Détermination de la force à
la rupture des assemblages par couture de matériaux souples en feuilles (films). (Satchels and
school bags. Test methods. Determination of breaking strength of joining by sewing flexible
sheet material).

The applicable prescriptions and standard interpretations are fully detailed in the following sections.

SCOPE
This Decathlon standard specifies a procedure to determine the maximum force of sewed assembly between
at least one flexible material sheet with a sleeve when the force is applied perpendicularly to the seam.

It is applicable to textile finished or semifinished products. It can be used also over different kind of flexible
materials sheets assembled by seams such as leather, synthetic leather, textile coated with a plastic or a
rubber layer, plastics, etc.

OBJECTIVES

The objective is to measure the breaking force of the assembly.

PRINCIPLE

A sample is extended perpendicularly to the seam at a constant rate until break. The break strength is
recorded. The sample is made between at least one flexible material sheet and a sleeve (cf. picture 11).

Sleeve

Flexible material sheet

Picture 11: Sample with sleeve

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

REQUIREMENTS ON EQUIPMENTS & CONSUMABLES

Test machine:
A universal mechanical-testing machine complying with the requirements of the standard EN ISO
7500-1 with at least class 1 accuracy.
 The universal mechanical-testing machine shall be fitted with a system allowing a continuous
measurement of displacement of the movable device with an accuracy of ± 0.1 mm.
 Constant speed 100 mm/min (± 10%) of the moving cross head.

Test specimen support:


 The jaws must be width of (50±1)mm and at least 30mm of height.
The jaw allows the specimen to be vertical.
The clamping device of the machine shall be positioned with the centre of the two jaws in the line of
applied force, the front edges shall be at right angles to the line of applied force.
The jaws should be able to maintain the specimen without damaging nor letting the specimen to
move.
A rigid tube with a diameter smaller than the size of the sleeve. This tube must not cut the specimen
and be strong enough to not bend during tensile test.

If the size of the sample can not be respected, please notify it in the test report.

REQUIREMENTS ON OPERATORS
None.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS
The test has to be carried out in the following conditions: temperature of (20 ±2) °C and a relative humidity of
(65 ± 4) % or (23 +/- 2)°C and (50 +/- 5) % relative humidity. The environmental conditions shall appear in the test
report.

SAMPLE PREPARATION
Specimens must be conditioned at least 12 hours in environmental conditions (see on top).

Cut 3 specimens for each tested assembly. On the sleeve, cut in the middle to keep 50mm of the sleeve. If is
not possible to test 3 specimens, it shall be notified it in the test report.
>200mm

Flexible
>200mm

material
sheet

Sleeve

Picture 12: Sample cutting with sleeve

Draw the jaws line to (501)mm from the seam on each specimen on the flexible
sheet.

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

TEST PROTOCOL REQUIREMENTS

Specimen shall be placed in the grips. Jaws lines are useful to ensure the good placement of the
sample.
The flexible sheet shall be placed in a jaw.
A rigid tube shall be placed in the cut part of the sleeve. The tube must not be deformed during the
test. The specimen shall not be damaged by the tube.
The force shall be applied perpendicularly to the seam.
 Initial distance between jaws: (50±1) mm. If this distance can not be respected because of the size of
the specimen, it shall be notified in the test report.
 Displacement rate of the mobile jaw: (100 ±10) mm/min
Pre load: 2N at 50mm/min speed
Note: displacement is set to 0 mm when pre-load of 2 N is reached.

Picture 13: Sample test 1

IMPORTANT: The breaking point must be defined as a drop of the maximum strength of
10%. Verify the specimen. If there is no visual damage, continue the test.

Validity of the test:

In the following cases, the specimen and result must be discarded and a new specimen shall be tested:

Slipping of the specimen in the jaws


Breaking in the jaws
Breaking within 5mm to the edges of the jaws (see picture 5)

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

REQUIREMENTS ON EVALUATION OF THE RESULTS

BREAKING FORCE:

Record breaking strength F (rounded to the nearest Newton) for each tested assembly.

 Calculate the average of breaking force F (in Newton) for n ≥ 3:

F
n
k

F k 1
n
Calculate the standard deviation of breaking force (in Newton):

 F 
1 * n
n 1 
Fk  F  2

 k 1

Calculate the relative standard deviation of breaking force (%):
100   F
F 
F
ELONGATION:

Record the elongation L (in % or mm) for each tested assembly.

 Calculate the average of elongation (in % or mm) for n ≥ 3:

L
L  k 1
n
Calculate the standard deviation of elongation (in % or mm):

 L 
1 * n
n 1 
Lk  L   2

 k 1

Calculate the relative standard deviation of elongation (%):

100   L
 L 
L

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

PRODUCT EVALUATION

The product evaluation shall be done upon applicant requirement or material standard; otherwise no
evaluation is required. Unless specific requirement, each individual result shall be superior or equal to the
requirement (given by the applicant) to declare the sample as conform.

Describe the kind of rupture and the placement of the rupture:

Fabric
Fabric at the assembly
Assembly
Fabric at jaws
Other (please specify)

TEST REPORT

The test report shall contain at least the following information:

 Reference to this DS-160 and version


 Date of the test
 Complete identification of the tested product (name of the tested product, supplier,
manufacturer…)
 Testing speed (mm/min)
 Breaking strength (N) and elongation (mm or %) of each specimen as well as the average
and relative standard deviation.
 Description of the rupture
 Any information regarding the progress of the test itself: deviation, deformation or rupture of
the specimen, interruption, pictures, modification, deviation regarding this Decathlon
Standard
 Number of specimens tested for each sample
 If the evaluation was done:
 Note the requirements given by the applicant
 For each sample, note explicitly the conformity or the non-conformity (according to
the specifications in product evaluation) with the following codification:

Conform C
Not Conform NC
Not Applicable NA
Not Tested NT
Not Requested NR

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Codification
DS-160
DECATHLON STANDARD
Version E

Annex A

Sample preparation to check stitching / taping resistance on fabric warp and fabric weft
side over seam tape. This sample preparation only concerns fabrics for garments.

Create two mock up respecting the following steps:

1) Cut totally 4 fabric samples (A,A’,B,B’) respecting these dimensions:

2 specimens (A,A’) 15cm in warp direction * 30cm in weft direction


2 specimens (B,B’) 15cm in weft direction * 30cm in warp direction

2) Sewn by pairs (A + A’ & B + B’) the fabric samples in the length side according to
international stitching standard nbr 301 of the Federal Standard 751a Stitches, seams and
stitchings of 1965, (25 JAN 1965) [S/S BY ASTM-D6193].

3) Tape the stitching

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