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ABSTRACT
Moisture management often refers to the evaporation. There are very few, if any,
transport of both moisture vapor and liquid 100% cotton garments that are advertised as
away from the body. Moisture vapor can recreational performance apparel for athletic
pass through openings between fibers or activities. Consequently, research and
yarns. In the case of cotton or other development is ongoing at Cotton
hydrophilic fibers, the fiber can serve as a Incorporated to develop such garments to
buffer by absorbing moisture vapor and allow cotton to participate in this market.
adding to the comfort properties of a fabric.
Liquid water (or perspiration) must be For cotton fabrics and, therefore, garments
wicked into a fabric structure, and then to offer the performance desired for athletic
evaporate from the outside of the fabric. endeavors, innovation and enhancement of
the cotton fabric must take place.
There is much hype in the market about fast-
drying fabrics. In general, all flat or non- Innovation is today’s catch phrase. The
raised surface fabrics when saturated will consumer wants something different, and the
dry at the same rate, independent of fiber industry must respond. Innovation is also
type. Fabrics used in athletic and known by many other names such as high-
recreational end uses should have the ability tech, intelligent textiles, nano-technology,
to transport moisture to the fabric surface for and functional finishes.
Ergonomic
Comfort
Ventilation
that the fabric becomes heavy, takes too Fluoropolymers can provide useful
long to dry, and in cooler weather after the modifications to natural (untreated) cotton
activity ends, the wearer often feels cold. for certain end uses. Some of these products
are durable to multiple home launderings.
Moisture management can be defined in this Some will greatly reduce the absorbent
discussion as: capacity, which will reduce the drying time
of a fabric. However, techniques to maintain
“The controlled movement of wicking must be used if the apparel is
water vapor and liquid water designed for activities where high levels of
(perspiration) from the surface perspiration are a factor.
of the skin to the atmosphere
through a fabric.” Fluoropolymers can offer a wide range of
properties, such as:
A wide variety of chemistries and
technologies can be used to modify the • Water resistance
moisture management properties of cotton • Abrasion resistance
fabrics. Some of the chemistries, such as • Softness
fluoropolymers, can be applied to cotton • High durability
without altering the basic comfort-related • Permanence through regeneration
properties, such as moisture vapor transport, • Compatibility with other chemicals such
air permeability, and moisture regain. These as polyurethanes
chemistries include:
Figure 2 shows LAD fluoropolymers, which
• Fluoropolymers offer durability. LAD refers to the property
• Silicones of regeneration through laundering and air
• Waxes drying. Most fluoropolymers require that
• Coating treated fabrics be ironed or dried at elevated
• Laminations temperatures after laundering to return the
• Innovative technologies
full benefits of the treatment to the fabric. porosity. At rest, a body will give off a
New chemistries do not require ironing for quarter of a cup (2 ounces, about 60 ml) of
performance after laundering, because they water vapor per hour at ambient conditions.
can renew with air-drying. Moderate exertion (walking, etc.) will
increase the amount to one pint (16 ounces,
MOISTURE VAPOR TRANSMISSION about 450 ml) per hour. The ASTM
RATE moisture vapor test (open cup test) is one of
a number of test methods for moisture vapor
Moisture vapor transmission rate (MVT) is transmission rate. In this test, fabric is
the speed or rate at which moisture vapor placed tightly over cups of water where the
moves through a fabric. It is typically water, the air above the water, and the room
determined by measuring the amount of environment are at the same temperature and
moisture vapor in grams that pass through pressure. The humidity of the room must be
1m2 of fabric in 24 hours with a specific controlled. The rate of water vapor that
driving force (e.g. humidity). MVT is passes through the fabric is determined by
primarily a function of fabric thickness and
weighing the cups. Figure 3 shows the open fabric - Nike DRI-FIT T-shirt - was
cup apparatus. compared to five different cotton-blended T-
shirt fabrics and five 100% cotton T-shirt
The GATS (gravimetric absorbency test fabrics. The blends included
system) test apparatus is shown in Figure 4. cotton/polyester, cotton/nylon, and
A fabric sample is placed on a porous plate. cotton/polypropylene.
Water (or other liquid) is fed to the sample,
and the sample is free to absorb without The results of testing on the GATS showed
pressure or restriction. The absorbency rate that the high-tech polyester was different
and absorbent capacity are measured. from the cotton and blended fabrics in two
Drying rates may be measured as well, but ways. The Nike DRI-FIT did wick quickly
this is not a standard part of the test method. and had a much lower absorbent capacity
In one series of tests run at Cotton than the cotton or blended fabrics. Because
Incorporated, a 100% polyester microfiber the synthetic fabric absorbed less water (due
o 10-60% of the cotton fabric next to The test method used for Tables 2 (no
the skin is untreated, absorbent, and laundering) and 3 (one laundering) was the
wicks moisture away into the Cotton Incorporated Gross Absorbency Test.
outside of the fabric for evaporation This test measures the absorbent capacity of
and cooling. fabric samples by placing them on a
“uniformly saturated fabric” with a readily
o The outside of the fabric is untreated available water supply. In this test, the
and absorbent. “uniformly saturated fabric” is in a
horizontal position and is maintained in the
o The chemistry and process saturated state by being in direct contact
technology required is simple and with a fine-pore sponge, which is mostly
widely available. immersed in a tray of water. The exact
details of this test can be obtained by
• The chemistry is durable to home contacting the Cotton Incorporated Textile
laundering. Chemistry Research Department.
Table 2: Comparisons of % Wet Pickup for FC Printed vs. Unprinted 100% Cotton
(no laundering)
500
% Water WPU
400
300
200
100
0
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7
500
% Water WPU
400
300
200
100
0
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7
60
% Water on Fabric
50
40
30
20
10
0
0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120
Time in min.
CONCLUSIONS
o A wide range of performance
With some of the techniques that are being characteristics can be achieved using
developed, it will be possible to create a existing chemistries and available mill
whole spectrum of performance properties equipment.
on 100% cotton for different activities in a
wide range of environments. From this It is possible to create a whole range of
study, the following can be derived: performance characteristics for different
activities or environments in 100% cotton. A
o 100% cotton fabrics can be produced creative marketing program based on this
with reduced absorbent capacity. concept can provide an incentive at retail
with emphasis on innovation.
o Reducing absorbent capacity while
maintaining wicking is critical.
CONTACT INFORMATION:
Michelle Wallace
Cotton Incorporated
World Headquarters
6399 Weston Parkway
Cary, North Carolina 27513
Tel. (919) 678-2220
Fax. (919) 678-2230