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Canon

socks by Caoua Coffee


materials:
340 m/370 yds (390 m/430 yds)
solid or semisolid fingering weight sock yarn
(sample: Natural Dye Studio, Dazzle, 100% BFL)

needles 2.25 mm / US 1 or size needed to obtain gauge

stitch marker, tapestry needle

optional: 30 m/33 yds contrasting DK weight yarn, crochet hook

sizes:
adult small to medium S/M (medium to large M/L)

gauge:
32 sts / 44 rows= 10 cm/4 inches in stockinette

abbreviations:
k = knit stitch
ktbl = knit through the back loop
k2tog = knit 2 together
k3tog = knit 3 together
M = marker
p = purl stitch
RS = right side / public side
sl st(s) = slip stitch(es)
sl yb = slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in back (back = the side away from you)
sl yf = slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front (front = the side closest to you)
ssk = slip 1 knit wise, slip 1 purl wise, knit both stitches together through the back loops
(or alternatively use your preferred ssk-method)
st(s) = stitch(es)
V and V* = see specific instructions below the chart and in the written pattern
WS = wrong side / private side
yo = yarn over
1-2 RC = 3 stitch right leaning cable (also known as “1 over 2 right cross”):
instructions for cabling without a cable needle:
rd
approaching from the front, insert the tip of the right needle into the 3 stitch on the left needle as
if to purl. drop 3 stitches off the left needle and pick up the 2 loose stitchess from the back with the
left needle. transfer 1 stitch back from right needle to left needle. k3
instructions for cabling with a cable needle:
slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold cable needle to back, k1, then k2 from cable needle

©Caoua Coffee 2019 – pattern is for non-commercial, personal use only. all rights reserved! Canon v.2 – page 1/7
Canon socks - by Caoua Coffee

please read before you start:


the cables in this pattern draw the fabric in. therefore the cuff - worked over 63(72) sts - stretches to
about the same circumference as the leg which has 70(80) sts per round. if you check to make sure
you can get the cuff over you heel, than the rest of the sock should be fine also.
as written, the smaller size fits an adult’s small/medium foot and the larger size fits a medium/large.
if you want the socks to fit a really large foot: use a sock yarn that is a light sport weight and knit
with a larger needle size, so as to achieve a bigger gauge without getting too loose of a fabric.
the pattern for the leg has round-by-round written instructions as well as a chart, so you can follow
along if you feel a bit unsure about reading charts. the instep later is charted only, but by then you
will be familiar with how that pattern and its chart works.
don’t try to work the socks TAAT! it’s just too complicated because of the constantly shifting stitches.
pattern:
cuff: loosely cast on 63(72) sts and join to begin working in the round.
place stitch marker for beginning of round.
work 10 rounds of ribbing like this: [k1, p2, k3, p2, k1] 7(8) times.

leg setup: work the 5 rounds of leg setup (follow either the chart or the written instructions).
note: the first st of the fifth round is slipped without being worked,
thus the beginning of the round shifts by 1 st to the left.
now you have 70 (80) sts on your needles.

leg setup - chart:

leg setup - written instructions:


round 1: [k1, p2, k1, yo, ssk, p2, k1] 7(8) times
round 2: [k1, p1, k2tog, yo, ktbl, yo, ssk, p1, k1] 7(8) times
round 3: [k1, k2tog, yo, ktbl, k1, ktbl, yo, ssk, k1] 7(8) times
round 4: [k2tog, yo, ktbl, k3, ktbl, yo, ssk] 7(8) times
round 5: remove M, sl yb, replace M, [yo, ktbl, p1, k3, p1, ktbl, yo, k2tog] 7(8) times

leg: start working the leg chart or follow the written directions for the leg.
work rounds 1 - 14 of leg pattern 4 times (i.e. 56 rounds all together).
cuff plus leg will then be about 15 cm (6 inches) long and beginning of round has shifted by two
full pattern repeats (i.e. 20 sts) to the right from where your cast-on tail hangs.

©Caoua Coffee 2019 – pattern is for non-commercial, personal use only. all rights reserved! Canon v.2 – page 2/7
Canon socks - by Caoua Coffee

leg - chart:

leg - written instructions:


round 1: [ktbl, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, ktbl, k1] 6(7) times, ktbl, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, ktbl, k1
round 2: [k2, p1, 1-2RC, p1, k3] 6(7) times, k2, p1, 1-2RC, p1, k3
round 3: [k1, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k2] 6(7) times, k1, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k2
round 4: [k2, p1, k3, p1, k3] 6(7) times, k2, p1, k3, p1, k3
round 5: same as round 3
round 6: same as round 2
round 7: same as round 3
round 8: same as round 4
round 9: [k1, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k2] 6(7) times, k1, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k1,
sl 1 st to right needle, remove M, sl 1 st back to left needle and replace M
(thus the beginning of round has shifted by 1 st to the right)
round 10: yo, [ssk, k1, p1, 1-2RC, p1, k2, yo] 6(7) times, ssk, k1, p1, 1-2RC,
sl 3 sts to right needle, remove M, sl 3 sts back to left needle and replace M
(thus the beginning of round has shifted by 3 st to the right)
round 11: p1, k2tog, yo, ktbl, [yo, ssk, p1, k3, p1, k2tog, yo, ktbl] 6(7) times, yo, ssk, p1, k2,
sl 1 st to right needle, remove marker, sl 1 st back to left needle and replace marker
round 12: k1, k2tog, yo, ktbl, k1, [ktbl, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, ktbl, k1] 6(7) times, ktbl, yo, ssk, k2
round 13: k2tog, yo, ktbl, k2, [k1, ktbl, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, ktbl, k2] 6(7) times, k1, ktbl, yo, ssk, k1
round 14: remove M, sl yb, replace M, yo, ktbl, p1, k2, [k1, p1, ktbl, yo, k3tog, yo, ktbl, p1, k2] 6(7)
times, k1, p1, ktbl, yo, k3tog

©Caoua Coffee 2019 – pattern is for non-commercial, personal use only. all rights reserved! Canon v.2 – page 3/7
Canon socks - by Caoua Coffee

set-up for heel flap:

remove marker, then work the next 31(39) sts as follows:


ktbl, k2tog, k3, [k2, ktbl, k1, ktbl, k5] 2(3) times, ssk, ktbl, k1(0), ktbl(0) => stitch count reduced by 2
then put the next 37(41) sts on hold. (they will be worked later for instep.)
this leaves you with 2(0) unworked sts at the end of this round, which are used for the heel together
with the 29(37) other stitches from the beginning of the round.
i.e. the heel is worked back and forth over the 31(37) sts you still have on the needles.
count the stitches now to make sure you got the numbers right and check that the pattern is centered on
the instep, i.e. the stitch exactly in the middle of the held instep stitches is a k3tog.
turn your work and start working the heel flap:

heel flap:

WS: sl yf, *[sl yf, p1] repeat from * to end, turn


RS: sl yb, k2(0), [p1, 1-2RC, p1, k5] 2(3) times, p1, 1-2RC, p1, k3(1), turn
WS: sl yf, *[sl yf, p1] repeat from * to end, turn
RS: sl yb, k to end, turn
WS: sl yf, *[sl yf, p1] repeat from * to end, turn
RS: sl yb, k to end, turn
work theses 6 rows 5(6) times in all, i.e. work 30(36) heel flap rows total.

turn heel:
WS: sl yf, p17(19), p2tog, p1, turn
RS: sl yb, k6(4), ssk, k1, turn
WS: sl yf, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn
RS: sl yb, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn
repeat the last 2 rows until all sts have been worked. don’t turn after the last RS row.
now 19(21) heel sts remain.

gusset setup:
pick up and knit 16(19) sts along side of heel flap, pick up and knit 1 more st between flap and instep.
continue by working the 37(41) held instep sts as follows:
smaller size only: omitting the first two sts and the last two sts, work row 1 of instep chart
(i.e. you start at the third st (yo) and you end with the third-last/antepenultimate st (yo) of that row)
larger size only: work row 1 of instep chart
continue for both sizes: pick up and knit 1 st between instep and heel flap, pick up and knit 16(19)
more sts along side of heel flap. knit the next 34(41) sts, which brings you to 2(0) sts before the instep.
this is the new beginning of the round. replace the marker.
smaller size only:
slip the next 2 sts over onto the instep needles and do the same with the first 2 sole sts on the other
side of the instep.
continue for both sizes:
now you have 41 sts on your instep needle(s) and 49(61) sts on your sole needle(s).
(count them now to make sure you got it right.)

©Caoua Coffee 2019 – pattern is for non-commercial, personal use only. all rights reserved! Canon v.2 – page 4/7
Canon socks - by Caoua Coffee

gusset decreases:
round 1: work instep in pattern as charted (i.e. work the next chart row from first to last st),
sole: ssk, knit to 2 sts before end of sole, k2tog
round 2: work instep in pattern as established (i.e. next chart row),
knit across all sole sts.
work these 2 rounds twelve times in all, i.e. 24 gusset rounds all together,
decreasing 2 sts every other round. now there are 41 instep sts and 25(37) sole sts.

instep chart: (always work the repeat marked by the red delimiters 3 times per instep row)

foot: continue instep in pattern as established (restarting at row 1 after having worked row 28),
while always plain knitting the sole sts.
end when the foot is approx. 5 cm/2 inches (5.5 cm/2.25 inches) shorter than desired length,
having worked all the sole sts after one of the following instep rows: 2, 4, 6, 8, 16, 18, 20 or 22.

©Caoua Coffee 2019 – pattern is for non-commercial, personal use only. all rights reserved! Canon v.2 – page 5/7
Canon socks - by Caoua Coffee

note: if you’d have to stop at a row 8 or 22 but the foot is not quite long enough, just work some
rounds as follows until you’ve reached the required length:
work instep sts as they appear (i.e. knit the knits, purl the purls) while knitting across all sole sts.

toe setup:
remove marker, k4(1), then shift these 4(1) sts over onto the sole needle(s), replace marker.
and at the same time shift the last 4(1) instep sts over onto the sole needle(s).
now you have 33(39) instep sts and 33(39) sole sts.
(count the stitches now to make sure you got the numbers right.)

toe:
round 1 (plain round) work all sts as they appear (knit the knits, purl the purls)
round 2 (decrease round): k1, ssk, work sts as they appear to 3sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1,
k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of sole, k2tog, k1
repeat these 2 rounds until you have 30(38) sts left on your needles all together,
then always work round 2 until there are only 14(18) sts left.

finishing:
leaving a tail of at least 20 cm / 8 inches, break yarn and close the toe using Kitchener stitch.
weave in the ends. then knit a second sock and enjoy!

optional embellishment:
see last page (page 7) for instructions on how to work the surface crochet that closes up the holes
left by the yarn overs (which makes the socks suitable for colder weather or for recipients who
don’t appreciate lacy “holes” in their socks), while at the same time embellishing the sock.
note: use thick yarn (DK) and appropriately sized hook (3 mm/C). make sure not to pull the
stitches too tight so the underlying knit-fabric stays stretchy and doesn’t pucker.

about this pattern:


A canon is a piece of music in which an extended melody in one part is taken up successively in one or
more other parts. One voice begins a melody, which is imitated by some other voice, either at the same or a
different pitch, beginning a few beats later or stating the theme simultaneously backward, moving in the
opposite direction or as a vertical mirror image. There are even riddle canons, where the rules of how to
play them have to be guessed from some clues provided by the composer.
A lot of fun can be had with this type of music, and it’s no wonder many great compositions like
Johann Sebastian Bach’s Goldberg Variations and his “Musical Offering” are full of all kinds of canons.

There’s no riddle involved in making these socks,


but you can see that the pattern shifts and offsets and produces its own mirror image,
but forms a consistent, pleasing overall design all the same.
- I hope you’ll have fun knitting these socks!
____
©Caoua Coffee 2019 – this pattern is for non-commercial, personal use only. all rights reserved!
there’s one exception: you are explicitly encouraged to make or sell items made from this pattern for charity purposes
if you have error reports or any suggestions concerning this pattern, you can contact me on Ravelry as ’CaouaCoffee’

©Caoua Coffee 2019 – pattern is for non-commercial, personal use only. all rights reserved! Canon v.2 – page 6/7
Canon socks - by Caoua Coffee

general technique of surface crochet:


here are some videos that show the mechanics of surface crochet, which you might want to watch first, if
you have never done surface crochet before:
by Webs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZPDQxoswco
by Techknitter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPx4aJKzDMw (shows how it works on a tube)

here are pictures that show every step of forming the stitches and how to fasten off at the end:
by Craftsy: https://www.craftsy.com/crocheting/article/surface-crochet/

written description how to crochet from yarn-over to yarn-over:


1. hold the contrast colored (cc) yarn at the back of your fabric (i.e. stick your left hand into the sock
holding the yarn pinched between your thumb and index finger) and grab the crochet hook with
your right hand.
2. insert the crochet hook into the hole formed by one of the yarn-overs of the pattern, catch the
cc yarn on the hook (by ‘fishing around’ with the hook inside the sock and at the same time
guiding the yarn onto the hook with your left hand) and draw the loop to the fabric surface.
(= 1 loop round your hook)
3. keeping that loop around the barrel of the hook, insert the hook into the adjacent/next yarn-over,
catch the cc yarn, draw a loop to the fabric surface. this creates a second loop round your hook
4. draw that second/new loop through the first/old loop.
repeat steps 1-4. when you are ready to fasten off, cut the yarn (leaving a tail long enough to weave in)
and pull that tail through the last loop. then with a tapestry needle, bring the tail to the back of the
fabric and weave in.

path to follow with your surface crochet on this pattern:


the yarn-overs in this pattern form a line that can be continuously crocheted as shown in the picture below.
at the spots marked with red arrows, the line formed by the yarn-overs is interrupted by a knit stitch that
lies between the yarn-overs. here you have 2 options:
 either you stick your hook into the V of that knit stitch (treating it as if it were a yarn-over), thus
continuing your crochet line uninterrupted on the surface of the sock.
 or “go underground” as I did: having worked the last yarn-over before the knit stitch, stick the hook
again into that same yarn-over, pull up a new loop and through the old (this forms a chain stitch).
remove your hook from the loop (it hangs loose), stick the hook into the next yarn-over (the one on
the other side of that knit stitch) and out again where the loose loop hangs, grab the loop with the
hook and pull it through to the other side. having “bridged” the gap invisibly, you can now
continue on the surface as before from yarn-over to yarn-over until you reach the next knit stitch.

©Caoua Coffee 2019 – pattern is for non-commercial, personal use only. all rights reserved! Canon v.2 – page 7/7

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