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How to Add Concrete to Existing Concrete

Co-authored by wikiHow Staff | Reader-Approved | 20 References

No matter how strong a slab of concrete seems, it will wear out over time.
Explore this Article
Imperfections form when concrete hardens or sinks into the ground. Adding fresh
concrete is a common way to level out old slabs and patch damage. If you plan on Cleaning Old Concrete
Setting up a Slab Perimeter
pouring a lot of concrete, build a wood and mesh barrier first to ensure your new slab is
Pouring a Primer Coat
strong. Finish the work by priming the surface and pouring a mix over it, giving your
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concrete foundation a fresh, new coat.
Article Summary
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Part
Cleaning Old Concrete
1

1 Sweep dirt and debris off the concrete. The old concrete needs to be completely clean or else anything
you pour over it won’t bond to it. The first order of business is to remove gravel, leaves, sand, and dirt. Get
as much of it off the concrete as you can. Push the debris off the concrete surface or collect it in a bag to throw
away.
Use a stiff-bristled broom to knock as much debris out of cracks as possible.

2 Use a pressure washer to clean out the remaining debris. You won’t get all of the hidden debris at first,
so you will need to give the concrete a more thorough cleaning. Use a fan tip on the pressure washer with
a PSI of about 3,000 and hold it about 6 in (15 cm) above the concrete. Sweep the nozzle slowly over the
concrete, making sure you hit every area.[1]
If you don’t own a pressure washer, check home improvement stores in your area. You may be able to
rent a washer from them.
You can add a liquid detergent or degreaser to the water to ensure you get all stubborn spots, including
those from mildew and algae.

3 Scrub difficult spots with chemical products. Purchase a commercial cleaner formulated for use on
concrete. Pour it onto tough stains you can’t otherwise remove, then work the cleaner in with a stiff-bristled
scrub brush. When you’re done, rinse the area with a hose. This can help remove stains from oil and sap, which
are very difficult to get rid of once they set in.[2]
Most home improvement stores sell these cleaners. Look for ones that are effective against oil.
Another option is to use trisodium phosphate (TSP). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the
TSP powder with water into a paste. Try mixing about 1 fl oz (30 mL) per .125 fl oz (3.7 mL) of water.
If commercial cleaners and TSP don’t work, you may need to get muriatic acid. The acid is strong, so
dilute it first, mixing 1 part acid in 3 parts water. Wear protective gear, including a respirator mask.

4 Saturate the existing surface with water. Right before you get to work mixing and pouring new concrete,
spray the old surface with a hose. Get the old concrete slab completely wet, making sure any cleaning
chemicals you used get rinsed off in the process. Keep spraying it until the moisture runs off the sides instead of
being absorbed. Dry up any water pooled over the concrete before continuing.[3]
Concrete is porous, so it can absorb liquid. If it absorbs moisture from the new concrete, you will get a
dry top slab that didn’t bond well with the old concrete.

Part
Setting up a Slab Perimeter
2
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1 Measure out the space you wish to fill with concrete. Taking measurements is necessary if you plan on
filling a large space. Use measuring tape to figure out the length and width your new slab needs to be.
Write your measurements down so you know what supplies to get to pour a smooth, consistent slab later.[4]
If you are only going to pour a thin slab or patch up existing concrete, make a general estimate of the
area’s size and how much concrete you need for it. You can usually mix and pour a small batch without
setting up a perimeter.

2 Mark the height you want the concrete to reach. Slab thickness is important and depends on your plans
for your home. If you want the slab to reach up to your doorstep, for instance, you need to measure from
the existing slab to the bottom of the doorstep. Use chalk to mark the height the slab should reach.[5]
Take your time measuring. The ground beneath the existing concrete may not be level, so measure on
all sides.

3 Use the measurements to calculate how much concrete you will need. Measure the length, width, and
depth of the area you wish to fill. Multiply these numbers together to get a general estimate of the amount
of concrete you need. Add an extra 10% onto your total estimate to account for spillage.[6]
The calculation can be an imperfect estimate, especially for areas that aren’t perfect squares or
rectangles. Always get more concrete than you need to ensure you have enough.

4 Install braces around where you will pour the concrete. Using your measurements, cut some boards to
help hold the liquid concrete in place. You can get wood boards that will reach the depth marks you made
in chalk earlier. Set the braces up around the perimeter of your old concrete slab.[7]
These braces serve as a mold. When you pour the concrete into it, you no longer have to worry about it
spilling off the old slab and making a mess. It gives you a better chance at creating a strong, level slab.
You can cut the wood yourself with a circular saw. Wear protective gear, including a dust mask and eye
protection, if you do this. Alternatively, get the wood cut at a home improvement store.

5 Prop up the braces with wooden stakes. Dig out the soil around the braces, then stand the stakes in
them. You can use 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood for most projects. Place the stakes approximately
every 12 in (30 cm), then drill them to the braces with 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws.[8]
Make sure the stakes are planted firmly in the dirt so the braces don’t fall as you work.
If your slab won’t be very high, you may be able to lay the wood braces on the ground and screw them
together without using stakes.

6 Test the evenness of the boards by laying a bubble level on top of them. The braces should be even
before you begin pouring the concrete. Set the level on top of each board 1 at a time. Watch the liquid in
the center of the level to make sure the bubble stays in the center. If the bubble moves to 1 side, that side is
lower than the other side and needs to be adjusted.[9]
Another way to test the boards is to run string behind them. The string should be the same distance
from the board at all times. If 1 end is closer to the string than another end, the brace isn’t straight and
should be adjusted.

7 Lay wire mesh between the braces. Wire mesh provides extra strength to thick concrete slabs. You can
purchase a roll of welded wire mesh at a home improvement store, then simply spread it out in a single
layer over the old concrete. Press it down so it is flat and level before you add the new concrete.[10]
The new concrete you pour binds to the mesh. Although it makes the concrete stronger, it won’t prevent
it from cracking.
Another option is to get rebar and lay it out in a grid pattern similar to the mesh. Place rebar chairs
underneath the rebar to hold them in place.

Part
Pouring a Primer Coat
3

1
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Purchase concrete with a fine aggregate for small repairs. Aggregates are additives that make up most
of a concrete mix. Fine aggregates are typically sand or crushed stone. This type of mix is best for pouring a
very thin coat of concrete, such as when topping off or leveling out an existing slab.[11]
The aggregate in a concrete mix is listed on the label. You can also see it when you open the bag. Fine
concrete looks smooth or has very small stones.

2 Choose a coarse aggregate concrete when pouring thicker slabs. Coarse concrete has gravel or
larger stones as an additive. This type of concrete is stronger but less dense, so you can safely pour a
large slab onto existing concrete. It is a good option if you need to fill a large area with something thick that will
last a long time.[12]
Larger aggregates cannot be used to make thin coats, so make sure you get the type of concrete mix
best suited for your project.

3 Wear eye goggles to protect yourself while mixing concrete. Concrete can splash up as you mix and
pour it, and that isn’t anything you want in your eyes. Wear protective goggles or safety glasses with
polycarbonate lenses at all times. Also consider wearing work gloves and long-sleeved clothing to protect your
skin from concrete splatter.[13]

4 Mix up a scratch coat consisting of concrete and water. The scratch coat is a layer of wet concrete
mixed to a liquid consistency similar to paint. You will need a big plastic mixing bucket. Combine the
concrete in a ratio of about 1 part water to 7 parts concrete, then mix it with a wooden mixing stick or electric
paddle mixer until it reaches a uniform liquid consistency.[14]
Use the same concrete you plan on using for the final layer. Have the area estimate available for the
space you wish to cover, then follow the manufacturer’s instructions for an estimate on how much to
mix.
Less is usually more with the scratch coat. Remember that is liquid, so it will spread out over the existing
slab.

5 Spread the liquid mix over the existing concrete. Dump it all out onto the existing concrete, then begin
spreading it around using a hand trowel or paver. Press down hard on the concrete to work the liquid mix
into any cracks as you smooth out the scratch coat layer. The layer of wet concrete doesn’t need to be thick. A
layer about 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) thick, about the thickness of a credit card, is enough.[15]

You can also use a rag or a gloved hand to spread the scratch coat. This can work well when priming
small areas.
The wet mix is there to help the new concrete bond to the old concrete, so you don’t need a lot of it.

Part
Adding the Top Layer
4

1 Mix a batch of concrete according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Read the concrete packaging to
find out how to mix it. The ratio is usually about 1 part water to 3 parts concrete. Add the water and
concrete to a mixing container, then use a wooden stirrer or electric paddle mixer to combine them into a thick
liquid.[16]
The mixing ratio may vary depending on what product you own, so check the manufacturer’s
recommendations to get the concrete to the proper consistency.

2 Add a bonding adhesive if you are using regular concrete. If you got a bag of concrete and mixed it
normally, you should use a concrete bonding adhesive to ensure the layers of concrete stick to one
another. The adhesive is a liquid that comes in a plastic jug and you pour it directly into the concrete mixture.
Check the manufacturer’s instructions to add the product at the recommended ratio.
You can get the additive online or at most home improvement stores.
If you are using a concrete patching product, you most likely do not need the adhesive. It is often
included as part of the patching mix. Check the product’s label to make sure.

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3 Apply the new concrete over the primer. Pour concrete onto the existing slab until it is around where you
want the final level to be. Make sure you have enough concrete to fill the entire area to the depth you
desire. Add all of the concrete right away so none of the mixture has a chance to dry out.[17]
You do not need to wait for the scratch coat layer to dry completely. It will have dried enough while you
mixed this batch of concrete.
You can try to fill in a slab with multiple pours of concrete, but this usually isn’t advisable. You won’t get
a single, uniform slab, which can lead to bonding issues in the layers.

4 Use a trowel to smooth out the concrete. The concrete needs to be leveled out before it solidifies. You
can use a trowel to smooth over small areas or a screed board and bull float for large areas. Work back
and forth, passing over a little more of the rough concrete each time. Make multiple passes over the entire
surface to ensure it is smooth.[18]
On hot days, the concrete can dry out very quickly, so don’t waste any time after pouring it.
Make sure there are no marks left in the concrete when you are done smoothing it.

5 Protect your work by spraying the concrete with a curing compound. A good curing compound is the
best way to preserve wet concrete. Mix the curing compound according to the manufacturer’s instructions,
add it to a garden sprayer, then spray it directly onto the concrete. This should be done right after you finish
pouring the concrete. Concrete takes about 7 days to fully cure.[19]
Another way to do this is to spray the concrete thoroughly with water from a garden hose, then lay a
polyethylene sheet or concrete curing insulation blanket over it. Make sure the plastic is flat against the
concrete or else it will cure unevenly, causing discolorations. Remove the sheet to moisten the concrete
again every day for a week.[20]
The longer the concrete is allowed to cure, the stronger it will be. Make sure no one is able to step on
the concrete until it has finished curing.

Community Q&A

Question

How many hours are required to for the 2nd pour after the 1st pour?

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

If you have to do multiple pours, wait only about 30 minutes to 2 hours. There is no exact time frame for this, since
concrete's drying speed depends on the weather in your area. However, concrete will begin to harden as soon as
your pour it. It should be somewhat solidified but not completely cured by the time you do the second pour.

Question

What is the difference between liquid and powder concrete additives?

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

Powder additives can be a little messy, but it can also add color and texture to concrete. Liquid additives work more
immediately so you know what effect they have on concrete, but they can also leave wet spots. They can also be
tough to use on sloped surfaces. They are basically the same thing and are often mixed together to get the best of
both worlds.

Question

I have a patio which has been laid with paving slabs, and the concrete underneath is stable but uneven. Can I
screed the existing concrete to lay my new flagstones on?

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wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

Yes, using screed is often possible and a cheaper option than concrete. Make sure the concrete level doesn't differ
by more than 1/4 an inch or else it may not work. It should work fine otherwise, especially on smaller patios.

Question

My driveway is one week old. How do I make the stones smooth on the edges?

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

You usually press the stones flat when adding them to the concrete, but you can try smoothing them out with a
concrete grinder or similar tool.

Question

Can I use this method to go over uneven mud jacking holes?

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

You can! Mud-jacking involves drilling into the concrete, then pumping the cement mixture underneath the slab to
raise it. Level it out with new concrete and it should be just as strong and lasting as normal.

Question

How do I know if I should go with an extension or a brand new porch?

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

There are a few factors. The most important is how the old porch looks. Is the old floor badly cracked or otherwise
damaged? If it isn't level or easy to work with, you may need to redo it before you can expand it.

Question

How do I form an outside corner to add new cement to the old?

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

Using an edging tool can help you spread the concrete around corners. Set up wood braces to contain the concrete
in a corner.

Question

How do I stop water from pooling under the roller door on the slab?

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

Try to watch and see where the water is coming from. You might have a leak in the area. Patch those up first. Also
make sure the area is waterproofed and the concrete slopes properly to let water out. Adding a rubber
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weatherproofing strip to the door can help, but not if the concrete isn't doing its part.

Question

How can I install weeping pipe on a sidewalk myself?

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

You will need to dig a trench, add a layer of gravel to the bottom, then fill the trench with gravel, dirt, and sod. For
indoor work, cut a hole with a concrete saw, add the gravel layer, install the pipe, then fill the hole with concrete.

Question

Can a concrete step be formed on existing concrete?

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

It can be done. You usually need to create a mold, such as out of wood braces, first. Then pour a strong concrete
into the mold as usual and let it cure.

Tips

Concrete work is best done on cool, dry, overcast days. If this isn’t possible, you can work on concrete during warm
days, but be quick so the concrete doesn’t have a chance to dry out.
You can always cut out old concrete and replace it. Use a chisel or jackhammer to remove damaged portions.
Oil and sap must be removed before new concrete can be poured. If you can’t remove it, chisel it out or cover it
with a sealant.
If your concrete is badly cracked, it may not be salvageable. Consult a professional to determine what needs to be
done.

Things You'll Need

Concrete mix or concrete patching product

Concrete bonding additive

Concrete cleaning chemical product

Wheelbarrow or bucket for mixing

Mixing stick or paddle

Trowel

Curing compound

Hose

Stiff scrub brush

Eye protection

Long clothing

Wood for large projects

Electric drill

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Wood stakes

Chalk

Wire mesh or rebar

Level

References

1. https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-clean-concrete/
2. https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-clean-concrete/
3. https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/construction/cold-weather-concreting-101_o
4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1XFWNT7pAM&feature=youtu.be&t=43
5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrcwuhsHCA8&feature=youtu.be&t=156
6. https://www.calculator.net/concrete-calculator.html
7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80tifUtp-bM&feature=youtu.be&t=23
8. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrcwuhsHCA8&feature=youtu.be&t=56
9. https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/site-prep/site-preparation-making-a-proper-bed-for-concrete_o
10. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0734743X16306364
11. http://www.cement.org/cement-concrete-applications/concrete-materials/aggregates
12. http://www.cement.org/cement-concrete-applications/concrete-materials/aggregates
13. https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-pour-concrete/
14. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3g5mooTjaQ&feature=youtu.be&t=46
15. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3g5mooTjaQ&feature=youtu.be&t=72
16. https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-mix-concrete/
17. https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-pour-concrete/
18. https://www.constructionprotips.com/jobsite-tips/pour-a-perfect-concrete-slab/
19. https://theconstructor.org/concrete/concrete-curing-compound-types/13478/
20. https://www.bobvila.com/articles/curing-concrete/

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