SEAM

A seam is defined as “the application of

series of stitches or stitch types to one or
several thickness of material.
The cost of a seam depends on the amount
of the fabric, thread and labour it required.

SEAM Contd.
 The choice of seam type is based on
 the location of the seam with in the garment,
 the end use,
 design,
 fit,
 current fashion trends,
 care of the garment,
 a balanced with cost limitations.

Good Appearance
• Smooth fabric joints
• No missed stitches
• No uneven stitches
• No damage to the material being sewn.

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Performance of seam
• Strength
• Elasticity
• Durability
• Security & comfort

IDENTIFICATION OF
SEAM CLASS
 The federal standard identifies
each seam class by two
uppercase letters, which
abbreviate the name of class.
 Seam types with in the class are
further identified with a lower
case letter or letters.

Lower case letters early in the alphabet usually represent simple

variations. The letters are followed by a numerical designating the
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total number of rows of stitches used to make the seam

Line Drawing of a Seam

Line drawings represent cross sections of
a seam.
• Each long line: a piece of fabric.
• The short lines: penetration of the
needle and lines of stitches.
• Curve lines: a connecting thread
between two lines of stitching.
• (Example: EFd: Edge finish, serging)
• SSa (Side Seams of skirts)
• EFd (Edge finish, serging)

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SEAM TYPES
1) Class 1 (Super Imposed Seam)
2) Class 2 (Lapped Seam)
3) Class 3 (Bound Seam)
4) Class 4 (Flat Seam)
5) Class 5 (Decorative Seam)
6) Class 6 (Edge Neatening)
7) Class 7 (Addition To Garment Edges)
8) Class 8 (Single Piece Addition)

CLASS–1
(Superimposed Seam)
• The simplest seam type within the class is formed by
superimposing the edge of one piece of material on another.
• A variety of stitch type can be used on this type of seam,
both for joining the fabrics and for neatening the edges or
for achieving both simultaneously.

SUPER IMPOSED SEAMS

ARE DENOTED BY
1. Plain Seam (Ssa)
2. Plain Seam Flattened With Bottom Cover
Stitch (Ssh)
3. Enclosed Seam With Piping (Ssk)
4. Attaching Elastic (Sst)
5. French Seam (Ssae)

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 1. Plain seam
(SSa)

2. Plain seam
flattened
with bottom cover stitch
(SSh) 10

3. Enclosed seam
with piping
(SSk)

4. Attaching elastic
(SSt)

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5. French seam (SSae)

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How to sew a French Seam

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ANNEXURE - 7

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CLASS – 2
(Lapped Seam)
• Lapped seam (LS) class is defined as two or more pieces of
fabric joined by overlapping at the needle.
• The federal standard contains 102 versions of lapped seam
(LS), making it the largest seam class.
• These subclasses deals that where the seam is lapped &
how it is lapped.
• Lapped seams may be sewn with a lock stitch or chain
stitch but not an over edge stitch.

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 Contd….
• Simple lapped seam, lap felled seam and welted seam are
under this class.
• In few classes there is problem of raw edges therefore not
commonly used in clothing.
• It is commonly used in joining of panels in sails where a strong
seam is required

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Uses…
• Attaching front band of shirt,
• Setting of pocket
• Side seams of quality dress skirts,
• Side seams or inseams of Jeans
• Joining in sail pannels

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LAPPED SEAMS ARE

DENOTED BY
• Lapped seam with raw edges exposed (LSa).Used for vinyl &
leather.
• Lapped seam with raw edge of top ply turned under
(LSb).Used waist band of mens dress
• Flat felled seam (LSc).Used in side seam of dress shirts or
jeans.
• Welt seam (LSq).
• Mock flat-felled seam (LSbm).

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Characteristics of Flat- felled

Seam (LSc)
• Very strong & durable; they are used in Jeans,Skirts &
Shirts.
• Prevent raveling because all the raw edges are enclosed.
• Bulky & rigid in heavy fabrics.
• Difficult to alter.
• Can be used only straight edges.

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How to sew Flat-Felled

Seam
• http://video.about.com/sewing/Se
w-a-Flat-Felled-Seam.htm

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 ANNEXURE – 8 Contd…

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Contd… ANNEXURE - 8

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CLASS – 3
(Bound Seam)
• In bound seam (BS) class requires a seprate piece of
fabric that encompasses the edge of one or more
pieces of garment.

• Seam consists of an edge of material, which is bound

by another, with the possibility of other components
inserted into the binding.

• Bound seam have 18 classes.

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Contd…
• They are used on underwear, leisurewear , on
skirts, jeans and ladies trousers.
• Used to cover and finish raw edges.

• Bound seams may be sewn with a lock stitch,

chain stitch or cover stitch.

• They are not used to create structural seam of the

garment

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TYPES OF BOUND SEAMS

1. Bound seams with raw edges of binding
exposed (BSa).
2. Bound seam with one raw edge of binding
turned under (BSb).
3. Bound seam with both raw edges of bindings
turned under (BSc).
4. Binding seamed on and then stitched in the
ditch (BSf).
5. Binding seamed on and then topstitched (BSj).
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BOUND SEAMS

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How to sew Bound
Seam

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ANNEXURE - 9

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Flat Seam

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 CLASS – 4
(Flat Seams)
• Flat seams (FS) join fabric whose raw (or
sometimes-folded) edges are abutted and sewn
together .
• Flat seams are sometimes called butt seams or
exposed seams.
• The joining stitches are typically 600 class cover
stitches.
• Flat seams appear similar on both sides.
• This stitch covers the raw edges and is visible on
the face and back of the seam. 31

• This is used in knit garments

where thick seams are
intolerable, like in underwear
foundation garments, sweatshirts,
sweat paints and some children
wear.

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ANNEXURE - 10

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 CLASS – 5
(Decorative Stitching)

• The main use of the Decorative Stitches on

garments where single or multiple rows of
stitches are sewn through one or more layers of
fabrics.

• These several layers can be fold of the same

fabric.

• The simplest seam in this class has decorative

stitching across the garment panel. 34

DECORATIVE SEAMS

i) 2X301, ii) 4X401,

iii) pin tucks iv) Channel Seam

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ANNEXURE - 11

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 CLASS – 6
(Edge Neatening)

• Seam types in this class include those where

fabric edges are neatened by means of stitches

(as opposed to binding with another or the same

fabric) as well as folded hem and edges.

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EDGE FINISHING
STITCHES ARE DENOTED BY

1. Singlefold Hem EFa

2. Doublefold Hem Efb

3. Blindstitch Hem Efc

4. Overedged Hem EFd

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EDGE FINISHINGSTITCHES

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 ANNEXURE - 12

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Class – 7
(Adition to Garment Edges)

• Seam in this class relate to the addition of

separate items to the edge of a garment part.

• They are similar to the lapped seam except that

the added component has a definite edge on both

sides.

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A band of a lace attached

to the lower edge of a slip

Elastic braid on the

edge of a bra

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Inserted elastic on the leg

of a swim suit

Shirt buttonhole band-

2 x 401

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Class – 8
(Single Piece Addition)

• In this class only one piece of material

need be involved in constructing the seam.

• The commonest seam type in this class is

the belt loop as used on jeans, raincoats

etc.
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BELT LOOP AND BELTS

(i) 406 (ii) 301

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SOME COMMON USES OF

DIFFERENT SEAMS

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