02/05/2010 Mobius Coil winding tutorial - toroidal

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How to Wind Toroidal Mobius Coils
Links
an original coil design developed at Wizzers Workshop and the
first such online tutorial anywhere on the web...

updated Sep. 2006

This coil is composed of a series quadrifilar cable with a 45 degree

helical twist; the cable is then wound with a toroidal winding
pattern. The first wrap of the cable serves as the core around which to wind the
toroid. Realistically, it will seldom be a perfect 45 degrees if wound by hand. Angles
between say 38 and 45 seem to work well enough but the closer to 45 the better.

First - Make yourself a "mobius Cable" to wind the

coil from. While you can wind a mobius coil from single
strands of wire, it certainly seems to be a lot more potent
when you use a helical cable made in the manner
described here to wind the coil from. Take a length of
wire, and double it back on itself twice as shown to the
right. Pull a little slack out at the ends of the wire, this
will be the leads of the coil when it is finished. You
should leave yourself at least 2" for leads, and it is a
good idea to give yourself 6" or so, you can always trim
the leads to the required length when the coil is finished.
It is much easier to use a drill to twist the wires than
doing it by hand. After experimenting with both CW and
CCW coils, we have discovered that either will work. For
many, a CCW coil is more comfortable. The way that the
coil leads enter the drill is not detailed in the color image
above, see the B&W image below for details.

Shown in the second picture is a method to fit

the cable end into the drill. Before inserting the
cable end into the drill to twist it, fold the leads back
so that they point towards the end of the cable
opposite the end with the leads. Then wrap a few

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turns of electrical tape around the wires to protect
them from the drill. Use about 5 or 6 turns of
electrical tape. This provides a cushion so that when
you tighten the drill chuck on the wires, it will not
scrape off the insulation. While working with the coil,
be careful not to scrape the insulation off the wires,
or the coil will short out and not work. The thinner the
wire, the more tape and the more gently you must
operate the drill. Take care not to scrape the
insulation off the wire while working with it. It is a
good idea to wrap a few turn of electrical tape over
the hook to cushion it, and replace the tape as it
wears over time (if you make a lot of them). Visually
inspect each cable for damage to the insulation.
Lacquer-insulated 'magnet wire' works great in sizes
larger than AWG 26, for sizes smaller than AWG 26
use plastic insulated wire.

Solid core wire is preferable IMO, but with sizes

below AWG 26 or so you may need to use wire
made from woven strands in order to avoid
breaking the wire. It can be done (with magnet wire) but it's not easy and the process would best be served by a wire winding machine
and that's out of the range of most tinkerer. So... If using very fine wire, then use wire with a plastic insulation and woven strands
because this is physically stronger than the lacquer coated wire. It also occupies approximately 3 to 5 times the space for the same
length of wire in a coil. Check each cable to verify that it connects electrically from end to end and that the wire is not broken inside the
cable.

For a 60 foot cable made from 18 AWG, you should be able to measure ~ 0.5 Ohms resistance. If there is 0.0x ohms resistance
and you have at least thirty feet of wire, you probably have a short. With thinner wires, the resistance increases. This page has detailed
wire resistance per foot tables which i used to give the examples shown below. Determine how much resistance your cable should have
and check it with a cheap digital multimeter if possible (this is only an issue if you are using really thin wire). Alternately, you could
devise some other means to determine that the wire is not broken after twisting. Using a multimeter lets you both determine if the wire is
broken or not and if it is shorted or not.

Wire diameter in AWG Coil Length in Feet apx. Resistance in Ohms

28 100 7.64
28 60 4.58
28 30 2.29
24 100 3.02
24 60 1.81
24 30 0.91
18 100 0.75
18 60 0.45
18 30 0.22

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 02/05/2010 Mobius Coil winding tutorial - toroidal

1. - Starting with the end of the cable which does not have the
leads, make a circle in the cable about the size you want your finished coil to be. Wind the way that tightens the cable not the
way that loosens it; you will see what this means when you get into it. You can wind the coil around a form initially if using stiff wire to
form it. If using thin wire then you can make 2 or 3 wraps around the circle to stiffen it up a little. Make the circle just a little larger than
you desired coil size. The spot where the circle closes is called Node A. Use a little glue (hot melt or silicone preferable) to hold the wire in place where it
meets itself at Node A. You may wish to apply a little hot melt glue on the first pass around the circle, as you set the locations of the next three nodes.

Even better is to slide a short length of heat shrink tubing on the end of the cable before making circle. Then make the wrap, slide the heat shrink tubing over the joint and
shrink it. You can only use heat shrink tubing on Node A. For Nodes B, C and D use hot melt glue or electrical tape. If the coil is small enough you may even be able to
hold things in place by hand until it holds it's own shape.

2. - Even out the circle, and mark off 3 spots arranged equally
around (the circumference of) the circle. Note the names I have assigned them in the image above.

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3. - Feed the other end of the cable (the end with the leads)
through the hole in the center of the circle. Pull the length of the cable through the hole. At the spot where it crosses over itself,
bend the cable around to the outside of the circle again, kind of like sewing a stitch. Make place where the cable wraps around itself at
the spot marked as Node B in these images (the first of the 3 marked off spots you will come to as you continue around the circle from
Node A.

4. - Do the same thing at Node C.

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5. - Do the same thing again at Node D. Even out

the placement of the nodes and adjust the cable so that the circle is reasonably uniform. Keep on 'sewing' your way around the
circle until you have used all of the cable. Stay to one or the other side of the previous wrap as you go to keep the coil neat. The
nodes will move to the side each time you add a layer, and eventually they will all run together. This method is suitable for cable lengths
of up to about 20 feet. if you want to put more wire in the coil then the simplest way to do it is to make it a 6 or 8 filament cable instead
of 4 and / or add several coils together.

The coil should look something like

this when you are finished. Use a
little glue to hold the spot where
the leads exit the coil securely.
There are lots of pictures spread
around the site which show many
different examples of this type of
coil.

<- example: QMD-S internal mobius coil

Just keep wrapping the cable around itself

(clockwise) as you go around the circle. With a little
practice, you will find that the windings form a
pattern, and if you make a mistake it will be obvious
as it does not fit the pattern. This coil tends to hold
its shape reasonably well once you get it started.
You should measure the diameter of the object you
wish to place in the coil as a core when it is finished,
and start with a circle a little larger than the diameter
of the intended core.

I recommend using a Quartz or Water-in-a-glass-

vessel core for mobius coils, because scalar
energy can sometimes be biologically disruptive when in 'raw' states.
This information is primarily intended for those who wish to use
mobius coils as a means of exciting Quartz crystals or Orgone Matrix
Material, and you are responsible for your own safety. By making this
coil you agree not to hold me responsible for any damages your
experiments may cause to persons or property. Mobius coils
generate scalar waves. Scalar waves can sometimes interfere with
and/or damage electronics when produced at high power levels. For
the purposes of Orgone research, power levels in the range of 0.5 to
50 watts are more than adequate.

The coils are also partially active with no electrical power

supplied in that they tend to attenuate scalar background
energy. They are least active when the coil leads are isolated and
most active (without power supplied to them) when the leads are
shorted together. When using these coils in radionic devices a purge

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function may be applied by momentarily connecting the coil leads to
each each other and / or ground. This is not always necessary but
mentioned for posterity.

<- example: ViBR III.2.x internal coil assembly

Simple and even messy-looking coils will still produce usable

simple SP devices; the angle of the cable twist is of more importance than the neatness of the toroidal windings. Nodes will
tend to form in the able and do not impair function of the coils for this level of application. Further refinements to the coils which are
possible for the experimenter are the geometrical and size relationships of multiple coils to each other for combined action, mirror image
sets of coils arranged in bucking 180 or 90 degree rotational offset but on the same plane,45 degree planar offset of two coils aligned on
common axis (credit to L. White), dowsing or mathematical determinations of exact cable wire length. I leave it to you to determine what
effects these modifications generate; the basic coil form depicted here is the simplest and most functional in terms of labor in to
perceptible field effect out.

Again, for simple scalar field modulators to be used in radionics or small wands such the SP type of device ... the coil does not need to
look pretty. It needs to have the cable twisted up to an angle approaching 45 degrees through most of the cable length and to have it
wrapped back though the center of the circle in a toroidal pattern.

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