Hobby the House Elf

©Britni Husband 2013 All rights reserved. This pattern may not be reproduced or distributed— mechanically;
electronically; or by any other means; including photocopying or digital distribution — without written permission. You may
NOT sell, redistribute, alter or publish this pattern or parts of this pattern.
Materials:

Medium weight cotton yarn

Beige – body color
White - eyes
Any - desired shirt color
2 each 18mm Safety Eyes
F/5 - 3.75mm crochet hook
Yarn Needle
Fiberfill stuffing
Small Button for shirt (optional)

Abbreviations:

CH – Chain
DC- Double Crochet
DEC* – Decrease – directions below
HDC- Half Double Crochet
R - Row
Rep – Repeat (repeat instructions inside asterisks* are shown in italics)
SC – Single Crochet
St/sts – Stitch/Stitches
TR – Triple Crochet

*Decrease – To decrease a SC stitch - Draw up a loop in next stitch. Then draw up a loop in the
following stitch.
(There should now be 3 loops on the hook.) Yarn over hook. Draw yarn through all 3 loops on
the hook. (One decrease made)
Helpful Tips

If you are new to crocheting softies, here are some tips to get you
started:

 Do not join rows that are crocheted in the round unless otherwise indicated.
 When working in the round, the side facing you is the “right side”.
 A stitch marker can be helpful when repeating rounds to keep track of your rows.
 On small pieces, it’s a good idea to weave in your beginning yarn tail as you go.
 To attach legs; position near bottom center of body, making sure bottom of leg is
even with bottom of body when seated and that your doll will be able to sit
correctly. Check for evenness of positioning for standing as well.
 For positional joints, insert a chenille stem (pipe cleaner) before stuffing (**Not
recommended if toy is for a young child).
 Joint washers are an excellent option for attaching head, arms and legs to give
added flexibility to your toy.
 You can refine your shaped pieces by lightly spraying with fabric starch and
blocking.

*How to make a slip knot that can be tightened by pulling tail of yarn

Loop yarn over fingers.

Bring loop from tail of yarn under original loop as shown and tighten.
Eye Base (Make two)

Using white yarn make a slip knot that can be tightened by pulling tail of yarn

Note** last row is different for right and left eye base.

Worked in the round.

R1: CH 2; 4 SC in second CH from hook. (4 sts)

R2: *SC 1; 2 SC in next SC*; rep once. (6 sts) tighten slip knot

R3: *SC 1; 2 SC in next SC*; rep twice. (9 sts)

Change yarn color to body color (beige);

R4: SC 3, 2 SC in same st, *2 HDC in same st.*, rep 3 times, 2 SC in same st.,

R5: Right Eye - SC 7, DC 1, HDC 9, slip st to next st

R5: Left Eye - SC 7, slip st to next st , HDC 9, DC 1

Fasten off – leave long strand for stitching.

Nose

Worked in the round using yarn in desired body

color.

Make a slip knot that can be tightened by pulling

tail of yarn

R1: CH 2; 4 SC in second CH from hook. (4

sts)

R2: *SC 1; 2 SC in next SC*; rep once. (6 sts)

tighten slip knot

R3: *SC 2; 2 SC in next SC*; rep once. (8 sts)

R4-7: SC 8 (4 rows of 8 sts)

R8: *SC 2 in same st, SC 3*; rep once. (10sts)

R9: SC 10

R10: SC in next 5 sts (5 sts)

Fasten off and stuff. Nose will be attached to head with the last row of 5 sc toward top of head
and centered just below eye bases.
Head
Worked in the round using yarn in desired body color - You will begin at the top of the head.

Make a slip knot that can be tightened by pulling tail of yarn

R1: CH 2; 6 SC in second CH from hook. (6 sts) tighten slip knot

R2: SC 2 in each SC around. (12 sts)

R3: *SC 1; 2 SC in next SC*; rep 5 times. (18 sts)

R4: *SC 2; 2 SC in next SC*; rep 5 times. (24 sts)

R5: *SC 3; 2 SC in next SC*; rep 5 times. (30 sts)

R6: *SC 4; 2 SC in next SC*; rep 5 times. (36 sts)

R7: *SC 5; 2 SC in next SC*; rep 5 times. (42 sts)

Rows 8-12: SC 42 (5 rows of 42 sts)

R13: *SC 5; DEC 1*; rep 5 times. (36 sts)

R14: SC 36

R15: *SC 4; DEC 1*; rep 5 times. (30 sts)

R16: SC 30

R17: *SC 3; DEC 1*; rep 5 times. (24 sts)

R18: SC 24

R19: *SC 2; DEC 1*; rep 5 times. (18 sts)

Insert Safety Eyes into Eye Base. You will want to insert the eye bases after you
complete R19 (it is difficult to reach up inside to attach the back to the eyes if you wait
until you finish all rows). The eyes are placed with the top at R6 and bottom of the
base around R11 - don't worry about it being perfect at this point; you will further
shape the eye after stuffing the head. You will want to leave at least 7 sts between the
eyes. Secure the safety eyes with the washer and finish crocheting and stuffing the
head
Finish Stuffing

R20: SC 18

R21: *SC 1; DEC 1*; rep 5 times. (12 sts)

Finish Stuffing

R22: SC 3

With yarn needle weave loose end through

each stitch in the opening. Pull tightly to close.
Bind off – weave in ends.

Pin the eye bases as shown in a

triangular shape. Using needle and yarn; with
small stitches, sew the edges of eye base to
face making sure the upper eye base rests
slightly over the top edge of the safety eye.

The following photo illustrates the placement of

the nose. Position with the last row of five SC at
the top - this helps give the nose a natural upward curve.

Create a ridge between eyes by stitching under the crochet between the eyes to pull the eyes
together slightly (see third photo below).

Use yarn to embroider a mouth - I typically just embroider two parallel lines about one row
under the nose - going no wider than the width of the nose.

I also always lightly spray everything with fabric spray starch to further shape it to my liking.
Simply spray, then shape and pin with straight pins; let dry and then remove the pins
Ears (make 2)
Worked in the round using yarn in desired body color. **Turn on last round**

R1: CH 4; Turn

R2: CH 1, SC in same st, SC 2, 2 SC in same st.

Working up the other side of the chain – SC 3, SC 2 in same st. join with slip stitch to first sc
(10 sts)

R3: CH 2 (counts as first sc), SC in same st, SC 2 in each st around, join with slip stitch to
first sc (20 sts)

R4**: CH 1, SC 1, DC 1 in same st; DC 2 in next st; DC 3 in next st; DC 2 in next st; DC 2 in

next st; TR 3 in next st; TR 2, CH 3 (counts as tr), slip stitch in same st; *SC 2 in next st*; rep*
twice; SC in next 10 sts; join with slip stitch to first sc (33 sts)

R5: CH 1, SC in each st around to st before ch 3 sp; DC 1, TR 1 in same st; Turn

R6: CH 1; SC back around stopping at ch 3 space

**(Optional) To make the ears mirror each other, you can use the backward crochet
method beginning on R4. This is not the same as reverse crochet. Because of the
design of the ears and the dynamics of crochet stitches having a differing front and
back, mirroring is the only way to get a similar reverse look. You perform it by inserting
the hook through the back of piece rather than the front and wrapping the yarn opposite
how you normally wrap and then by working right to left instead of left to right. It is
difficult to perform and it is not a perfect solution - something you will run across often
in projects with right and left-sided flat pieces.

For my own house elves, I personally crochet two ears (without mirroring) and use a
front on one side & back on the other. It is not noticeable to people other than those
who crochet and often only if you point it out to them. Fasten off. Stitch ears to head as
shown. Embroider a mouth.
Body
Worked in the round using yarn in desired body color.

Make a slip knot that can be tightened by pulling tail of yarn

R1: CH 2; 6 SC in second CH from hook. (6 sts) tighten slip knot

R2: SC 2 in each SC around. (12 sts)

R3: *SC 1; 2 SC in next SC*; rep 5 times. (18 sts)

R4: *SC 2; 2 SC in next SC*; rep 5 times. (24 sts)

R5: *SC 3; 2 SC in next SC*; rep 5 times. (30 sts)

R6: *SC 4; 2 SC in next SC*; rep 5 times. (36 sts)

R7-13: SC 36, (7 rows of 36 sts)

R14:: *SC 4; DEC 1*; rep 5 times. (30 sts)

R15: *SC 3; DEC 1*; rep 5 times. (24 sts)

R16-20: SC 24, (5 rows of 24sts)

R21: *SC 2; DEC 1*; rep 5 times. (18 sts)

R22-23: SC 18, (2 rows of 18 sts)

Begin Stuffing

R24: *SC 1; DEC 1*; rep 5 times. (12 sts)

Finish Stuffing

R25: SC 4

With yarn needle weave loose end through each stitch in the opening. Pull tightly
to close. Bind off and weave in ends. Body will be slightly pear shaped. See photo below.
Arms
Worked in the round using yarn in desired body color. Note– **Right and left hands are
worked differently

Make a slip knot that can be tightened by pulling tail of yarn

R1: CH 2; 6 SC in second CH from hook. (6 sts) tighten slip knot

R2: *SC 1; 2 SC in next SC*. Rep* twice. (9 sts)

R3-12: SC 9, (10 rows of 9 sts)

Begin stuffing upper arm. Don’t overstuff – remember, house elves have scrawny arms!

R13: DEC 1; SC 7, (8 sts)

R14-23: SC 8, (10 rows of 8 sts)

Begin Stuffing lower arm

R24: *Dec 1; 2 SC*; rep once. (6 sts)

R25: SC 6

R26: *SC 1; 2 SC in next SC*. Rep* twice. (9 sts)

R27-28: SC 9, (2 rows of 9 sts)

Continue Stuffing lower arm

**Right hand**

R29: Thumb – SC, CH 4 (crochet down the chain beginning in 2nd ch from hook – HDC, SC,
HDC), sc in same st.

SC in next st

First finger – SC, CH 5 (crochet down the chain beginning in 2nd ch from hook – HDC,
SC, HDC, SC) sc in same st.

Second finger – SC, CH 6 (crochet down the chain beginning in 2nd ch from hook –
HDC, HDC, SC, HDC, HDC,) sc in same st.

Third finger – SC, CH 5 (crochet down the chain beginning in 2nd ch from hook – HDC,
SC, HDC, SC) sc in same st.

SC in next 4 sts..
Finish stuffing hand

Close opening by stitching between fingers, round fingers by stitching chain edges together
down sides of fingers.
.
**Left hand**
R29: Third finger – SC, CH 5 (crochet down the chain beginning in 2nd ch from hook – HDC,
SC, HDC, SC) sc in same st.

Second finger – SC, CH 6 (crochet down the chain beginning in 2nd ch from hook –
HDC, HDC, SC, HDC, HDC,) sc in same st.

First finger – SC, CH 5 (crochet down the chain beginning in 2nd ch from hook – HDC,
SC, HDC, SC) sc in same st.

SC in next st

Thumb – SC, CH 4 (crochet down the chain beginning in 2nd ch from hook – HDC, SC,
HDC), sc in same st.

SC in next 4 sts.
Finish stuffing hand

Close opening by stitching between fingers, round fingers by stitching chain edges together
down sides of fingers. Stitch arms to body. See Pg. 15 on making moveable joints.

Close opening by stitching between fingers

Round the fingers by stitching chain edges together down sides of fingers
Legs (Make two)
Worked in the round using yarn in desired body color.

Make a slip knot that can be tightened by pulling tail of yarn

R1: CH 2; 6 SC in second CH from hook. (6 sts) tighten slip knot

R2: SC 2 in each SC around. (12 sts)

R3-12: SC 12, (10 rows of 12 sts)

R13: *SC 4; DEC 1*; rep once. (10 sts)

R14: SC 10

Begin Stuffing – Don’t overstuff – house elves have scrawny legs too!

R15: *SC 3; DEC 1*; rep once. (8 sts)

R16-17: SC 8, (2 rows of 8 sts)

R18: *SC 1; SC 2 in same st*; rep 3 times. (12 sts)

R19: SC 12

R20: *SC 4; DEC 1*; rep once. (10 sts)

R21: *SC 3; DEC 1*; rep once. (8 sts)

R22-28: SC 8 (7 rows of 8 sts)

Continue Stuffing

R29: Foot SC 5; SC 2 in next st; SC 1; SC 2 in next st; (10 sts)

R30: SC 7;; SC 2 in next st; SC 2 in next st; SC 1 in next st (12 sts)

R31: SC 4; DC 4; SC 4 (12 sts)

R32: DEC 2; SC; HDC 1, DC 1 in same st; DC1, HDC 1 in same st; SC1; DEC 2 (10 sts)

R33: DEC 2; HDC 1, DC 1 in same st; DC1, HDC 1 in same st; DEC 2 (8 sts)

Finish Stuffing

R34: SC 4

Fasten off. With yarn needle weave loose end through each stitch in the opening. Pull tightly
to close. Sew legs to body. See Pg. 15 on making moveable joints.
 Finish Stuffing

With yarn needle weave loose end through each stitch in the opening. Pull tightly to close.
 Using small stitches, shape the foot by coming up through the bottom of the foot as shown
above; then through to the back of the leg and finally tacking the stitch again at the front. This
gives the bend from the ankle to the foot.

Finished Legs
To allow your plushie to have movable arm and legs, attach them to
the body with the following method.

Pin arms (or legs) in place as shown.

Insert your yarn needle beginning at 1 (you will need a long needle), through the first arm or
leg, through the body, out the opposite appendage ending at 2. Reinsert your needle one
stitch below at 3. Again, insert the needle through the body exiting the opposite side ending at
4. Repeat process several times *making sure to insert the needle through these same
entrance/exit points* each time. Fasten off and weave in any loose ends.
Sack Shirt
Begins as a chain, then worked in the round beginning row 3.

R1: CH 30, turn, (DC in 2nd ch from hook across) DC across row (28sts)

R2: Turn, CH 1, (slip st to 3rd dc); DC 9, CH 5 (skip next 5 dc); DC 9, skip last 3 dc, Chain 7;
join with slip st to opposite side to begin working in the round.

R3: Chain 3 (counts as first dc) DC in same st; DC in next 8 st; 8 DC in ch 5 space; DC to CH
7 sp; DC 8 in ch 7 sp; join with slip st to first dc;

R4-12: Chain 3 (counts as first dc) DC in same st, DC in each st around; ; join with slip st to
first dc.

Bind off and weave in ends. Add button or yarn to shoulder for fastening.
I welcome your comments and suggestions! Please contact me though Craftspiration on Facebook

or by email: Brithus@gmail.com