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Revitalization and
counter‐revitalization: tourism,
heritage, and the Lantern Festival as
catalysts for regeneration in Hội An,
Việt Nam
a
Michael A. Di Giovine
a
Department of Anthropology , University of Chicago , Chicago,
USA
Published online: 25 Nov 2010.
To cite this article: Michael A. Di Giovine (2009) Revitalization and counter‐revitalization: tourism,
heritage, and the Lantern Festival as catalysts for regeneration in Hội An, Việt Nam, Journal of
Policy Research in Tourism, Leisure and Events, 1:3, 208-230, DOI: 10.1080/19407960903204364
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Journal of Policy Research in Tourism, Leisure and Events
Vol. 1, No. 3, November 2009, 208–230
Journal
10.1080/19407960903204364
1940-7963
Original
Taylor
1302009
MichaelDi
digiovim@uchicago.edu
000002009
&
ofArticle
Francis
Policy
Giovine
(print)/1940-7971
Research in (online)
Tourism, Leisure and Events
Resumen
Cuando se utiliza para fines de desarrollo, el turismo con frecuencia provoca una
tensión entre los deseos (y necesidades) con respecto al cambio y la permanencia
al mismo tiempo. Como otro tipo de proyectos de desarrollo, los de turismo con
frecuencia se conciben, paradójicamente, como medios de habilitación y ‘mejora’
de los huéspedes que necesariamente descansa en manos de los anfitriones.
Después de trazar brevemente las coyunturas históricas entre los discursos de
desarrollo y el turismo, el autor defiende la adopción de una teoría alternativa, una
que se abstenga de tautologías de desarrollo y nociones de evolución: la teoría de
revitalización clásica de Anthony Wallace, un ‘esfuerzo deliberado, organizado y
consciente por los miembros de una sociedad para construir una cultura más
*Email: digiovim@uchicago.edu
Résumé
of the oil trade (UNWTO, 2007) – has long been considered a central means for
economic development, employment, and poverty alleviation (de Kadt, 1979;
Muhanna, 2007; UNESCO, 1976), especially when places have ‘outlived their
usefulness’ (Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, 1998, p. 151) as many ‘developing’ countries,
like Vi t Nam, have. Yet well-supported skepticism concerning tourism’s positive
potential for change has existed for just as long, and rich case studies reinforce
claims that touristic pressures create undue ‘stress’ on a host society (Murphy, 1985,
pp. 1, 3) by fostering economic and social disparities akin to modern colonialism
(Nash, 1977), ‘museumification’ of resources and self-representation (Dellios, 2002;
Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, 1998), and unsustainable environmental and cultural practices
(Kolata, 2007; Winter, 2003). Some of these issues are related to general inadequa-
cies of the development paradigm, while others emerge from the disconnect between
development and tourism.
When employed for development purposes, tourism often elicits a fundamental
tension between locals’ desire (and need) to both stay the same and to change. Like
many other development projects, tourism is viewed as a means to better a society in
the face of numerous socio-cultural pressures. ‘Betterment’ does not simply mean
economic improvement and increased employment, although that is often the case; it
also includes psycho-social aspects such as ‘empowerment’ (Kane, 1993; Rist, 1997,
p. 130), ‘integration’ into the global system (Truman, 1949; UNWTO, 1974), and
valorization on the international level (Di Giovine, 2009; Dure, 1974; UNESCO,
2005, p. 9) that can emerge precisely by adopting a newly introduced, globally
networked industry such as tourism. Often considered a form of ‘recreation,’ it
becomes a method of re-creation, of revitalizing or re-vivifying a place and people
through a complex process of interaction among a variety of stakeholders. Yet para-
doxically, tourism is often contingent on those very practices that are the intended
objects of change; tourism celebrates a culture’s traditions – often perceived as its
very ‘underdevelopment’ – that will necessarily be transformed through its implemen-
tation and ‘modernization.’ This problem was evident early in the post-war tourism
movement, as the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) makes
clear in its inaugural publication:
In the second half of the 20th century we are seeing an increase in the number of nation
states all seeking to preserve their individualism while at the same time all wanting to
Journal of Policy Research in Tourism, Leisure and Events 211
benefit from new technologies and new institutions which operate on a global scale
across all national boundaries. To weld together the common interests of all without
interfering unduly with the individual and particular interests of each is the task of this
growing community of specialized international agencies of which WTO is the most
recent member. (UNWTO, 1975, p. 248)
Tourism development also achieves this through a very evolutionary model of linear
progress: I will attempt to show that what could be dubbed a ‘development paradigm’
is predicated on claims that all humankind is inevitably traveling across a single,
linear trajectory towards a ‘modern’ capitalistic culture of production and consump-
tion. The necessary corollary of this, therefore, is that ‘modern’ Western people must
be the agents of change, the knowledge-brokers, the deliverers of civilization. Indeed,
the UNWTO – a global yet immanently Western institution based in Madrid, which
traces its roots to the International Congress of Official Tourist Traffic Associations
(ICOTT) in the Hague and the British International Union of Official Tourist Public-
ity Organizations (IUOTPO) (Jafari, 1975, pp. 237–238) – goes on to state its
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only are tourism and heritage often related (Di Giovine, 2009, pp. 48–58), but tourism
and religion also often go together, as students of pilgrimage or festivals well know
(cf. Badone & Roseman, 2004; Ebron, 1999; Graburn, 1977; Morinis, 1992); ‘a tourist
is half a pilgrim if a pilgrim is half a tourist,’ Victor and Edith Turner once remarked
(1978, p. 20). And though tourism seems to be oriented to the ‘modern leisure class’
(cf. Boorstin, 1961/1994; MacCannell, 1976/1999; Towner, 1985), Nelson Graburn
(1977, 1985) drew on Victor Turner’s understanding of pilgrimage (Turner, 1974;
Turner & Turner, 1978) to show that its core phenomenological aspects transcend
economics: it is undertaken to experience a formative change from the everyday. Its
return-oriented ritual structure allows it to be conceptualized not only as a rite of
passage (van Gennep, 1960) but a rite of intensification – ‘cyclical rites that renew the
social or natural order’ (Chapple & Coon, 1942), a personal act of revitalization for
participants.
But it is less the phenomenology of tourism and religion that renders a revitaliza-
tion paradigm applicable to this context, than its discursive and perspectival qualities
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nature (Harkin, 2004, p. xxiii; cf. Augustine of Hippo, 1958), and alleviates the
tension between fostering meaningful cultural transformations and maintaining
tradition.
not unreasonable to assume that gazing upon their devastated cities elicited reactions
similar to those by colonial tourists when confronting the archaeological remains of a
‘disappeared’ civilization, as epitomized by this quote from Henri Mouhot, who is
credited with ‘discovering’ the Khmer temple Angkor Wat in 1860: ‘There are few
things that can stir such melancholy feelings as the sight of places that were once the
scene of some glorious or pleasurable event, but which are now deserted’ (quoted
Dagens, 1995, p. 35). In part because of their impressive monumental scale and in
part because of their dire need of restoration that the West could provide, the Indoch-
inese temples of Angkor – like so many other monuments of ‘past’ civilizations exca-
vated by the colonial powers – contributed to the formation of Orientalist narrative
claims that saw Western Europeans as heirs to the luminous torch of ‘civilization.’
Lux ex Oriente, as the narrative goes; the ‘light from the East’ had been extinguished
there in Kampuchea, but through the colonial efforts of the French, it can once again
be brought back to the heirs of the Khmer (Di Giovine, 2009, p. 31; Edwards, 2007;
cf. Said, 1994).
In contrast to a revitalization movement, the development paradigm can be defined
as a historically and culturally situated category of processes that attempts to bring
about positive changes in a society through the intervention of outsiders who are consid-
ered more ‘advanced’ members of a common, broadly conceived civilization. Utilizing
Modernization theory, this post-World War II phenomenon drew on the Enlighten-
ment-era conception of human progress as well as Darwinian evolutionary notions of
‘descent with modification’ – that complex creatures evolve from more simplistic
organisms over time (Darwin, 2005, pp. 774–775). The paradigm thus views all people
on a common historical trajectory toward a more developed, universal and ‘modern’
culture (cf. Morgan, 1877); difference is considered hierarchically as indicative of the
stage of progression in which a culture finds itself. Modernization proponents propose
that all cultures are linked in their desire for social development into a rational, capi-
talistic form of civilization (cf. Weber, 1992, pp. xvii, 20). This concept had informed
the colonial enterprise, as it did the League of Nations.1 Nor is this only a capitalistic
notion; Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels also were informed by such a civilizational
understanding, as was Vladimir Lenin – though communism, rather than capitalism,
represented the final stage in their theory of socio-economic evolution.
This type of reasoning also guided the US-initiated Marshall Plan, which in 1947
aimed to reconstruct Europe and to provide America’s ‘huge production capacity with
214 M.A. Di Giovine
the markets it needed for postwar conversion’ (Rist, 1997, p. 69). It was as much a
security endeavor as it was a reconstruction effort; it was a struggle to keep the torch
of civilization from leaving, especially in the wake of the ascendancy of the Soviet
Union, which was informed by a similar understanding of civilization and develop-
ment, but whose objectives were at odds with that of the West. These security initia-
tives, coupled with the stunning progress of reconstruction efforts in Europe and
Japan, informed what would become the most important factor ushering in the ‘devel-
opment age’ (1997, p. 71): Truman’s 1949 inauguration speech and his famed ‘Point
Four,’ which stated that ‘all countries, including our own, will greatly benefit from a
constructive program for the better use of the world’s human and natural resources.’
Deftly coupling the post-war desire for economic expansion with humanitarian over-
tones, an impassioned Truman argued that ‘greater production is the key to prosperity
to peace,’ and that ‘only by helping the least fortunate of its members to help them-
selves can the human family achieve the decent, satisfying life that is the right of all
people’ (Truman, 1949).
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Several factors are important here. As Rist points out, Truman’s introduction
of the concept of ‘underdevelopment’ was an innovation that ‘radically altered the
way the world was seen’ (1997, pp. 72–73). Instead of the colonizer/colonized para-
digm, the developed/undeveloped binary was intensely more human (both biologi-
cally and socially); it linked the modern North and traditional South in a universal
movement across a continuum of civilizational sophistication. An ‘undeveloped’ soci-
ety was perceived to posses structural and technical flaws that could be fixed through
Western intervention, and Walter Rostow’s ‘Big Push’ theory, first articulated in a
paper at Cambridge University in 1958, epitomized this thinking. Arguing that
economic growth occurs essentially in a ‘biological field,’ Rostow argued that
massive amounts of capital and expertise is required to change the structures of unde-
veloped countries, allowing them to ‘take off’ (in his words) like a rocket toward the
higher echelons of development (Rostow, 1960; quoted Rist, 1997, p. 95).
Unlike the colonial era, therefore, development assumes a ‘transitive meaning;’
development is not simply a de facto biological or evolutionary process across time,
subject only to the caprices of Civilization that can come and go, but rather ‘an action
performed by one agent upon another [sic] which corresponded to a principle of social
organization’ (Rist, 1997, p. 73). Such a view continues to inform development
discourse, for it provides the impetus for outside involvement. At a London School of
Economics lecture in the early 1970s, R.P. Dure breaks with the ‘conveyor belt’ view
of modernization while nevertheless espousing the transitive understanding of
development:
[Much] has been written on ‘pre-programmed runners on the white line’ assumptions
[that] ‘modernisation’ is an intransitive concept: it is something that happens to societies.
Used in that way, however, it is not a very useful concept: the runners are not pre-
programmed and there is no single white line, let alone a finishing line called a state of
modernity. But ‘modernisation’ becomes a useful word if it is derived from the transitive
verb ‘to modernise’ in the sense of ‘seeing to transform one’s society, or segments of it,
in imitation of models, and under the influence of ideas, drawn from other countries
which are seen as more advanced in some implicit scale of progress.’ (Dure, 1974, p. 93).
Indeed, one of the most important aspects of Truman’s speech is that he argues that
development is a global effort; it calls upon different types of actors from different
countries to assist different recipients who seem to be lacking the characteristics of
Journal of Policy Research in Tourism, Leisure and Events 215
modernity, for the collective security and economic benefits of all. Integration into the
world system (and world markets) ‘through increased production and accumulation,
based on private investment and external assistance,’ is key (Rist, 1997, p. 85; cf.
Clancy, 1999, p. 2); it sets the precedent for direct, often bodily, involvement in local
settings – and, in the case of tourism, it links such interactions to discourses of
economic and ‘psycho-social’ (cf. Rist, 1997, p. 100) improvement. Such actions are
fostered primarily through economic means: foreign investment, technological inno-
vation to maximize resource extraction, and increased production capacity. Walt
Rostow’s philosophy of providing a ‘big push’ of international capital and expertise
fit right in to this plan; development was not a de facto evolutionary process across
time, but a global effort to provide, as United Nations Secretary-General U. Thant
would state in 1962, ‘growth plus change’ (Rist, 1997, p. 90; cf. Rostow, 1960, p. 9).
The simultaneous advent of more sophisticated means of transportation and
communication created another paradigm shift that rendered tourism conducive to
incorporation into Truman’s ‘Point Four.’ It significantly opened up the possibility
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past, and are therefore of universal appeal, particularly to tourists (Di Giovine,
2009; cf. UNESCO, 1972, p. 1).
Both UNESCO’s World Heritage Convention and the varieties of development
initiatives across the world were, on one level at least, egalitarian in nature; they were
– and continue to be – concerned with sustainable practices that valorize and improve
individuals at the local level (Di Giovine, 2009, p. 33). Yet indicative of the cultural
and historical situatedness of these processes, the diversity of local practices was often
perceived as a detriment; it is necessary to coordinate development practice through a
development ‘plan’ (Ferguson, 1994; Mosse, 2005; Murphy, 1985, p. 36), especially
if outsiders with little experience or social networks within the community were
supposed to be fueling the movement. As Ashley, Boyd, and Goodwin point out:
politan centres. Links with the local economy are often weak, with the possible exception
of employment. (2000, p. 1)
These donors thus often call upon governments, who exist above and beyond the local,
to act as powerful mediators between practitioners and locals. In speaking of commu-
nity tourism planning, for example, Peter Murphy writes, ‘Government involvement
in tourism [is imperative], for it alone possesses the necessary financial resources and
legislative power to redirect and coordinate the industry among more desirable
courses of action’ (p. 36). R.C. Mings, upon whose analysis Murphy draws, states
unequivocally that for tourism development to be successful, tourism requires ‘proper
planning,’ something that, in the late 1970s, had yet to be accomplished. ‘Conse-
quently, development in most places falls short of achieving optimum impacts’ (1978,
p. 2). Murphy concludes that even ‘a community approach to tourism management’ –
that is, tourism that includes (and benefits) the local population – necessitates ‘a
general goal that can be identified and measured’ (1985, p. 37).
Simply put, until the 1980s, interaction between foreign developers and the state
was promoted by the World Bank, IUOTO/UNWTO2 and the United Nations. In
1969, the World Bank created a dedicated Tourism Projects Department to ‘support
tourism as an economic growth tool’ for countries that met specific criteria (Hawkins
& Mann, 2007, p. 354). It lent over $525 million to 18 developing countries between
1970 and 1979, most of which were specifically called ‘tourism projects’ and were
directed at constructing the infrastructure, ‘urban regeneration’ and conservation of
resources necessary for a robust tourist economy (2007, p. 324).
After the failure of Rostowian industrialization pushes, which were exacerbated by
OPEC’s oil shocks in the 1970s, post-colonial states turned in greater numbers to the
tourism sector, for they recognized their competitive advantage to lie in the very under-
development they sought to transcend: Tourism was relatively inexpensive to utilize
as a resource, it could bring in short-term cash flows, it could impel conservation and
infrastructural development endeavors (UNESCO, 1972), and it could produce both
direct and indirect employment through what Emanuel de Kadt critically termed
‘economic and social dualism’ (1979). Viewing tourism through a Modernization para-
digm, it promised to pull locals from a rural subsistence economy into urban life by
directly employing them in ‘modern’ touristic infrastructures as guides, cooks, and
hotel workers, and indirectly as souvenir producers, foodstuff and textile providers,
and hotel furniture craftsmen who utilized and performed their ‘traditions.’ Envisioned
Journal of Policy Research in Tourism, Leisure and Events 217
conducive to vertical integration by foreigners, who would not only manage hotels, but
would open competing restaurants, travel agencies, bus companies, and guiding facil-
ities. The ‘multiplier effect’ of indirect employment also did not materialize (cf.
Murphy, 1985, pp. 90–95); that is, the opening of new markets for traditional crafts
and agricultural goods did not revitalize ‘traditional’ industries, or stave off a ‘flight
from the land’ by framers who continued to move to the cosmopolitan urban centers
to look for work (UNESCO, 1976, p. 81). Lastly, the vertical and horizontal integration
of foreign tourism companies created notable ‘leakages’ – ‘the proportion of monies
invested or earned in the tourism sector that ended up overseas’ (Markandya, Taylor,
& Pedroso, 2005, p. 231), mostly in the hands of the tourists’ countries of origin
(Bryden, 1973). And tourism theorists such as Denison Nash (1977), Daniel Boorstin
(1961/1994), and Dean MacCannell (1976/1999) decried what they perceived as an
environment of modern colonialism, inauthenticity and ‘museumification’ caused by
the touristic enterprise.
Responses from tourism advocates largely echoed those leveled by development
practitioners, especially the large funding agencies operating outside the local sphere:
In the absence of measurable or predictable results, success is often contingent upon
– or espoused through the idiom of – the proper execution of a specific plan, though
in reality most development practitioners on the ground adapt to change just as often
as the locals do. The corollary, therefore, is that the perceived ‘failure’ of tourism
development was directly linked to an incorrect implementation of the plan – either
because of human error or because of faults in their coherency and execution. As
Mosse and Ferguson both intimate in their respective ethnographies, development
practices may be perceived as a glaring failure by outside funders, managers, and
government entities who are removed from the everyday nuances of the site if the
results do not match up to the plan’s predetermined, and often arbitrarily assigned,
developmental benchmarks. James Ferguson asserts that, ‘like all “development”
discourses … “development” results from “development” projects’ rather than from a
process of discourse and practice that both produces knowledge and embargoes it
(1994, p. 37; cf. Quarles van Ufford, 1993, p. 137). Indeed, the opening paragraph from
the World Bank’s first major working paper on tourism development resonates today:
Tourism is a path to economic development; for some countries it is the only viable path.
But too few developing countries plan for tourism. Countries that lack the financial,
218 M.A. Di Giovine
technical or administrative capacity to plan almost inevitably lose control over the devel-
opment of tourism. Foreign exchange earnings flow to the international hotel chains,
airlines, travel agencies, and marketing experts needed to attract the requisite numbers
of tourists. Unforeseen consequences cause the relationship between tourist and host
country to sour. They include: loss of land by the local population; weakening of family
ties; and loss of local ownership and control of hotels, restaurants and other tourist facil-
ities. (Norohona, 1979, p. 1)
by the same developmental perspective, these initiatives often meet the same ‘fail-
ures.’ Writing on ecotourism’s focus on ‘strategies’ and ‘parameters of success,’
Amanda Stronza states:
The ideas are generally prescriptive, arguing that if the ecotourism industry were to
provide the right inputs, such as ‘a participatory approach,’ then the negative impacts of
tourism on local hosts could be reduced. The emphasis remains, however, on what is
external to a site, rather than on what the existing conditions might reveal about whether
tourism will have a positive or negative impact on local residents (Stronza, 2001, p. 275).
Indeed, Murphy – one of the first advocates for a ‘community tourism perspective’ –
seems to belie the egalitarian dimension to his theory much the same way Truman did;
his task was to enumerate best practices and ‘response strategies’ (1985, p. 38) to help
‘the industry’s survival’ (p. 29), perhaps more so than the survival of the community
itself. The most indicative element of this perspective is Murphy’s contention that the
primary resource which governments and tourism development practitioners must
manage is locals’ ‘goodwill’ (p. 39). Writing decades later, Rich Harrill seems to echo
this point; ‘planners are challenged with understanding how the public perceives tour-
ism’ not in order to better tailor the touristic enterprise to local cosmologies, but rather
‘in order to gain local support for tourism projects and initiatives’ (2004, p. 251).
Furthermore, locals seem to be considered as ignorant of their own (economic) better-
ment, and tourism practitioners are exhorted to ‘demonstrate that benefits pass to the
community as well as industry personnel’ (Murphy, 1985, p. 124), since ‘[o]ne reason
why residents have consistently lower attitude ratings to local tourism, compared to
other groups, is that they are often unaware of its economic significances and overall
contribution to their community’ (p. 122).
Despite the good intentions of many development practitioners, it appears that tour-
ism development suffers from an unforeseen clash of cultures in its very approach – a
clash which is often subtle, and which threatens to marginalize those to whom the initi-
atives are to help. It seems that what is needed, by both practitioners and analysts, is
an alternative paradigm to inform both the practice of tourism and the analysis of its
outcomes. This paradigm should integrate efforts by outsiders and locals alike; it should
not link results to a rigid ‘plan’ constructed by outsiders, but to the interactions between
these entities; and it should call upon, and valorize, locals’ traditional worldviews, as
the primary impetus for their ‘betterment.’
Journal of Policy Research in Tourism, Leisure and Events 219
This article offers a different, more equitable and, in some cases, more accurate model
for understanding those cases where locals themselves are in charge of their transfor-
mations, where they adopt tourism initiatives to suit their own value systems and in
accordance with their own cosmologies, their own understandings of the world, and
their place in it. Appropriating Anthony F.C. Wallace’s classic ‘revitalization’ theory,
originally intended to understand Native American religious movements, I posit that
analysts and practitioners alike should view these cases through a revitalization para-
digm. Revitalization, as Wallace describes it, is a model for understanding culture
change, brought about by significant and often complex environmental, economic,
social, cultural, and psychological stresses in the host society, which have been caused
by new or intensified contact with an outside society. It is often fueled by visionary
local leaders who, perceiving the culture as once functional but now operating unsat-
isfactorily, are desirous of a restoration of ideal cultural values. While the end product
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created by other entities. The same seems to ring true in many contemporary commu-
nity tourism planning initiatives. Although conceding that local stakeholders must be
brought into the process, Jamal and Getz (1995), for example, still take for granted the
imposition of a plan from above. Because it inherently utilizes an organizational model,
community tourism planning is inherently not a grassroots theory, but rather uses
‘representatives from the local community and others from outside the geographic
locale of the community’ (p. 198) who provide ‘legitimacy and power,’ ‘an external
mandate,’ and ‘authority’ (1994, p. 197) to the plan. ‘Failure to include them in the
design stage only invites technical or political difficulties during implementation,’ Gray
tellingly remarks (1989, p. 65).
Organic, a revitalization movement is instead fueled by locals responding to pres-
sures on an individually experienced, yet collectively mediated conception of a
group’s cultural existence, which Wallace terms a ‘mazeway.’ Unlike structural func-
tionalists, Wallace’s formulation of a society does not exist as a self-contained whole
without any clear beginning or end, but is a transient creature whose individual
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components are cognizant of their own lifestyle, their own place in the system, and
their cosmological position in space and time. Indeed, place is integral to Wallace’s
conceptualization of a mazeway, as he indicates:
This mental image I have called ‘the mazeway,’ since as a model of the cell-body-
personality-nature-culture-society system or field, organized by the individual’s own
experience, it includes perceptions of both the maze of physical objects of the envi-
ronment (internal and external, human and nonhuman) and also of the ways in which
this maze can be manipulated by the self and others in order to minimize stress.
(1956, p. 266)
Thus, it is important to note that the revitalization paradigm does not eschew the
intervention of outside forces, such as the often well-meaning tourism developers and
NGO workers. Rather, it recognizes that all groups appropriate within their particular
cosmological schemes an image of the ‘Other,’ just as a bricoleur assembles disparate
chunks of debris into an ‘ideological castle’ (Lévi-Strauss, 1966/1974, p. 17). While
development practice innately incorporates the ‘Other’ into a civilizational scheme,
attempting to translate alternative value systems into standardized plans that are
comprehendible to Westerners, revitalization movements similarly see locals incorpo-
rating the worldviews of outsiders. Indeed, the revitalization paradigm emphasizes the
many processes in which various groups are mutually incorporated; it views cultural
regeneration from a more equitable point of view as the product of a totalization of
multiple procedures that impels locals to make significant changes to their society by
calling upon, yet re-inventing, their narratively understood identity. Unlike a develop-
ment paradigm, the revitalization model brings local ‘hosts’ into a direct and more
equal relationship with tourist ‘guests,’ as well as with the variety of other actors oper-
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ating within what I have elsewhere called a ‘field of touristic production’ – a complex
of different subjective communities engaged in struggles of positioning and position-
taking (Di Giovine, 2009, pp. 42–48; cf. Bourdieu, 1993). By participating in mutual
and multifarious interaction, contestation and negotiation, locals drive their socio-
cultural transformation by subtly expanding their very cosmologies and how they
perceive of themselves fitting into it.
This phenomenon occurred in the UNESCO World Heritage site of H i An, a once
sleepy port town in central Vi t Nam that has become one of the socialist country’s
most popular tourist destinations.3 Located on the Thu B n river, at the epicenter of
ancient Champa – a Hindu state that frequently clashed with both the Khmers at
Angkor and the D i Vi t in Hà N i – H i An (or ‘Fai Fo’ as it was sometimes called)
D
o[kr]ts
was an important trading center at the periphery of the Silk Road for its prized cinna-
mon and sandalwood exports. When the Vietnamese took control of the region, the
town continued to flourish, and from the late sixteenth century to the early eighteenth
century it became a melting pot of merchants from China, Japan, Portugal, and, later,
France (ICOMOS, 1999, p. 114). But the closed-door trade policies of the Nguy n
empire – which echoed those of the Chinese and Japanese – coupled with the unfor-
tunate silting of H i An’s ancient harbor, led to sudden and gross economic stagnation.
Locals turned mainly to subsistence fishing or farming. Though many fled the town,
those who remained were impoverished and largely forgotten, eclipsed by the urban
center of Dà N ng. Yet a series of touristic interventions by those outside and inside
D
[orkt]s
the town regenerated H i An, transforming, in the process, the very socio-cultural
fabric of the town. The ways in which tourism was implemented in the 1980s was very
much in line with the global development movement; however, to truly understand this
transformation, we will examine this through the lens of revitalization.
The revitalization of H i An
Like elsewhere in post-war Vi t Nam, the first ‘tourists’ arrived in H i An in the 1980s,
and they were Soviets – mostly advisors and their families on holiday from Hà N i or
possibly Dà N ng, to which they were called to work. According to Tr n Vă n Nhân,
D
[orkt]s aebv[re]
Chair of the local office of the Ministry of Culture and Information, they recognized
the stunning outward ossification of the town, and dubbed H i An ‘old Hà N i.’ Some-
time around 1983, news of this old Hà N i reached a Polish historic preservationist
222 M.A. Di Giovine
affectionately called Kazim (Kazimier Kwiatkowski), who was working at the sacred
Cham site of Mỹ Syon, which was severely damaged during the Vietnamese–
American war. When he arrived in the town, he was ‘surprised’ to see such well-
preserved traditional buildings and lobbied government officials ‘who knew nothing
about the town’ to ‘come in to study it.’ In 1985, the Vietnamese government hosted
H i An’s first domestic symposium in an expansive French villa on the outskirts of
town, now the large H i An Hotel. At the symposium, experts shared their scientific
and architectural assessments gathered through the past few years’ study. Five years
later, over 100 scientists (including 52 foreigners from Western Europe and East Asia)
attended an international symposium in Dà N ng. According to Tr n, this was the turn-
D
[orkt]s
ing point for H i An; the symposium sufficiently raised awareness in the academic
community of this once-forgotten town.
By a stroke of good timing, less than a year earlier a man had arrived in H i An
named Daniel Robinson, a traveler affiliated with Lonely Planet guidebooks. The back-
packer-oriented travel publisher had sent him to research the country, which was on
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the cusp of opening up to tourism. His aim was to compile the first edition of a new
guidebook dedicated exclusively to former French Indochina: Vi t Nam, Laos and
Cambodia. He had been allowed to visit Saigon and Hà N i, but ‘probably with special
permission,’ his government guides took him to H i An. Like Kazim almost a decade
before him, he was astonished by what he considered its lack of modernity and its state
of preservation. He dedicated a full 14 pages to this small and relatively unknown town
– stunningly, the same amount he gave to Saigon and Hà N i. This is not insignificant
if a tourist ‘attraction’ is constituted through the dialectic of ‘site-visitor-marker’
(MacCannell, 1976/1999, p. 41) – where the marker is, in this case, the first true touristic
text of Vi t Nam since the colonial era. This parity of pagination served its purpose,
conveying the perceived parity of H i An’s importance compared to Vi t Nam’s well-
known urban centers to the north and south. When the book came out in 1991,
backpackers arrived in such numbers into the small town that the Ministry of Culture
and Information almost immediately established a program of tourist services there.
By now it is clear that H i An was engaged in a type of ‘tourism first’ development
push, which Peter Burns describes as the implementation of a touristic ‘industry’ after
a ‘suitable site’ is located (1999, p. 332). Yet like other such initiatives, the actual
transformation was not influenced merely by a standardized development plan but
rather a unique set of conjunctures between Outsiders and some visionary locals who
represented the town not as a stagnant and economically inefficient place, but a
‘heritage’ site worthy of visitation. But like other development projects, it created
unforeseen problems for locals. H i An had already been a century into its decay, and
the pressures of tourism seemed only to exacerbate the situation by putting stress on
the social and material bones of the town. Colored by expectations of a perfectly
preserved town, backpackers demanded an improvement of the destination’s offerings.
This translated not only to cleaning and restoring the aesthetics of the place, but also
to converting buildings into venues appropriate for tourists, such as restaurants, bars,
and hostels with plumbing and electricity. Toward the end of 1990s, even Internet cafes
were requested. The demand also increased for souvenir shops and other shopping
venues; presumably because most visitors arrive in Vi t Nam from Hong Kong or
Bangkok, two cities famous for low-cost seamstresses, many locals began tailoring
businesses.
In the early days of tourism, the greatest need was to reconstruct the dilapidated
homes, but the situation was not conducive to proper preservation. The Vietnamese
Journal of Policy Research in Tourism, Leisure and Events 223
government had imposed a commercial logging ban; wood had to be imported from
Laos. The price thus was so high that the people of H i An could not afford it. ‘The
people were saying, “I can’t do this. My roof will fall and it will kill my family. I’ll
knock it down and build another one in concrete,”’ Tr n recalled. After requesting
help from Hà N i, the central government sent in preservationists to restore a few
exemplary edifices at no cost. To help the others, however, the Ministry of Culture
and Information granted local homeowners licenses to work in the tourist sector.
According to guide Pham Van Anh, non-participating locals could not help but see
tourists visiting newly restored buildings, and it raised their desire to preserve their
own homes in a similar fashion. They began to come up with their own proposals for
restoration and integration into this new touristic situation in order to gain the limited
funds available.
To assist the impoverished locals looking to restore their homes, in 1995, the
Ministry of Culture and Information began a semi-voluntary ticket system where
tourists would be strongly encouraged to pay an entrance fee. The purchase of this
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ticket would grant the visitor access to one museum, one Chinese meeting house, and
one historic home out of a pool of three of each. The original tickets were priced at
VND 50,000, or about US$4; the cost has only increased slightly over time. While
25% of the revenue would be dedicated to tourist authority’s management and opera-
tion costs, such as staff payments, printing of tickets, and drafting of brochures, the
remainder would be put into a preservation fund to which local homeowners could
apply irrespective of their engagement in the tourist sector. An application alone does
not necessarily ensure funding, however; ‘groups of advisors’ must first be sent in by
the government to draw up accurate floor plans, assess the needs of the home,
‘suggest’ a team of workers, and propose a comprehensive restoration plan. The
governmental lenders will also investigate the homeowners’ income, including alter-
native sources of funding such as family abroad with whom the homeowner continues
to maintain contact. With this procedure completed, the government may then offer to
pay a percentage of the total cost using revenue from the fund – it could be upward of
80% to 100%, or less than 10%. Today, most – if not all – of the homes within the
historic center of H i An have been restored in accordance to international preserva-
tion standards, and all but a few of its inhabitants are actively engaged in the tourist
industry.
Engagement with outsiders expanded the way in which H i An’s inhabitants under-
stood the world and their place in it; it also created growing material desires from its
enriched inhabitants. Television antennae, satellite dishes, and cables of all sorts began
to be put up haphazardly. In response, the government implemented a number of public
infrastructural ‘development’ projects aimed at maintaining the old world charm of the
town. By 2004, all anachronistic television antennae, satellite dishes, and electrical
wiring were removed from the roofs of homes, and cables were installed underground.
And in 2006, the town enacted a trial program banning motorcycles within the city
center a few days a week, with little adverse reaction.
In many ways, the material and cultural regeneration of H i An mirrors those clas-
sic processes of touristic development which occur elsewhere in the world: plans are
created through the intervention of outside (and often ‘Western’) experts, with little
input from locals save some visionary local leaders who act as mediators; locals react
in unexpected ways, contesting, and sometimes thwarting the efforts of tourism imple-
menters; outside stakeholders feel obliged to ‘educate’ locals on the material benefits
their cooperation will bring; and, as Murphy, Harrill, and others contend, once locals
224 M.A. Di Giovine
experience economic profits, they accept other stressful changes with less complaint.
Yet this type of analysis fails to adequately concentrate on the locals’ role in the field
of touristic production. I have thus attempted to paint a portrait of H i An’s material
and cultural regeneration through a revitalization paradigm: Though the decisions
private individuals made concerning their own property were influenced by very public
elements, they were undertaken organically and relatively independently of a typical
tourism development ‘plan’ imposed by outsiders in Hà N i. Furthermore, the devel-
opment narrative does not focus on how locals alleviated the immaterial, yet imma-
nently perceptible, stresses on their culture by outsiders. Indeed, tourism’s growth in
the region was spurred through the intervention of diverse actors operating within a
field of touristic production. Yet locals in H i An – perceiving a variety of cultural,
economic, and environmental pressures on their way of life – ultimately shaped the
way in which the town reinvented itself, and provided solutions to their problems that
were based on their own value systems. They were able to respond to the tension
between transformation and tradition ‘by attempting to craft unprecedented visions of
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themselves and the world around them,’ to appropriate the words of development critic
Arturo Escobar (1995, p. 225). In the next section, I will focus on one such unprece-
dented vision, the Lantern Festival, as a direct manifestation of this revitalization
mentality.
That the monthly Lantern Festival has made an indelible mark upon the economics
of H i An was observable about five years after its inception. Previously, the numer-
ous shops in H i An sold a variety of wares, of which paper lanterns were a very
minor part. H i An, in fact, was not known for lanterns as it seems to be today; to
the extent that it could be marked by any product, it was known in the country for a
type of doughy noodle called cao l u, and a particular type of pottery named after
Thanh Hà, a hamlet nearby. Capitalizing on the World Heritage narrative of the
town, many of these stores dishonestly masqueraded as antique shops, selling inau-
thentic fragments of blue-and-white Delftware, faux opium pipes, and metal objects
Journal of Policy Research in Tourism, Leisure and Events 225
that were purposefully weathered to appear hundreds of years old; they would weave
stories that their relics were excavated from shipwrecks nearby. More ‘honest’
proprietors stuck to selling hand-carved wood, Thanh Hà pottery, silk paintings, and
tchotchkes such as chopstick holders, chess sets and statuettes, sculpted of marble
(or sometimes just resin) from the Marble Mountains halfway between H i An and
Dà N ng. But about five years later, many of these same proprietors turned to
D
[orkt]s
making and selling silk lanterns of the type used during the Lantern Festival; they
had found that the majority of tourists who experienced the festival purchased at
least one lantern as a souvenir. These labor-intensive lanterns have already begun to
be exported, first to Saigon and today abroad in Australia and the USA. Indeed, the
buzz surrounding the festival in the international travel community has so shaped
awareness of the lantern’s supposedly strong connection to H i An-ese culture that
travelers today seek out lanterns for purchase, irrespective of their participation in
the festival. Today, the streets are literally lined with shops exhibiting lanterns of all
sizes, shapes, and colors; from the mercantile aspect, the streets are almost unrecog-
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The Lantern Festival punctuates the locals’ calendar in the same metrical way
traditional festivals and rites do. To use the words of Durkheim, it ‘expresses the
rhythms of collective activity while ensuring the regularity’ of the people’s social life
(1995, p. 10). Unlike other festivals, however, this one is hyper-regular; it occurs
practically all of the time, with barely a repose. Not only does the Lantern Festival
punctuate the calendar illustratively for reinforcing the collective, but it also actively
re-creates temporality for the locals, who in their ‘between’ status are constantly being
pulled by modernity. Throughout the rest of the lunar month, locals are relatively free
to immerse themselves within contemporary culture. They can sell souvenirs and
contemporary art, they can sew the hippest fashions and sell the most popular brands
of athletic ware. They are at liberty to move forward with the rest of society, riding on
their Hondas and watching color cable television, using their indoor plumbing and
their electric lights, singing along to pop music videos, and watching English-
language movies. They may enjoy as unfettered an access to modern ideas as is
allowed in the country, pulling them along with their foreign guests, becoming one
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Conclusion
Viewing the material and social transformations brought on by the implementation of
tourism through the perspective of a revitalization movement can be fruitful. Unlike a
‘development’ paradigm, the revitalization model brings local ‘hosts’ into a direct and
more equal relationship with tourist ‘guests,’ as well as with the variety of other actors
operating within the field of touristic production. Instead of merely ‘participating’ in
development, all are equally engaged in processes of transformation: tourists are not
ignorant or passive recipients of ‘pseudo-events’ or ‘staged authenticity,’ tourism
industry professionals are neither the ‘gatekeepers’ nor the authoritative voices for
tourism implementation plans, and locals ultimately are seen as driving their cultural
transformation.
A revitalization paradigm is also sensitive to alternative value systems while also
being responsive to the real material impacts of global forces on the local. While
recognizing the important role outsiders play on the local milieu, it considers cultural
transformation to be ‘organic,’ not unidirectional and not incumbent on the interven-
tion of ‘modern’ nation-states. Focusing on the transformations brought about from
within a culture, in reaction to and in conjunction with outside forces – rather than on
the ‘implementation’ of development strategies from the outside – the revitalization
paradigm can better capture the complex processes of negotiation that occur within a
touristic field of production, as well as the variety of intertwining elements that inev-
itably factor into any ‘culture change’ phenomenon.
Indeed, a revitalization paradigm allows for greater attention to be paid to the
significance of locals’ discourses and practices in relationship to the panoply of others
within the field of touristic production. This is especially significant for post-colonial
states who struggle to define and represent themselves on a newly enlarged, global
Journal of Policy Research in Tourism, Leisure and Events 227
stage. Development critic Arturo Escobar argues throughout his monograph that the
‘development discourse,’ as framed from the post-World War II era onward, ‘has been
the central and most ubiquitous operator of the politics of representation and identity’
in many recipient nations (1995, p. 214). It should be understood that, like that of the
development paradigm, this revitalization paradigm is also discursive; it is not only
another way of perceiving and analyzing, but also of discussing, the ways in which
tourism can transform a culture. This is not insignificant. Following Michel Foucault
(1972), Escobar points out that a discourse is itself a historically and culturally
situated practice that produces real material results (cf. Ferguson, 1994, p. 18):
Discourse is not the expression of thought; it is a practice, with conditions, rules and
historical transformations. To analyze development as a discourse is ‘to show that to
speak is to do something – something other than to express what one thinks; … to show
that to add a statement to a pre-existing series of statements is to perform a complicated
an costly gesture’ (Foucault, 1972, p. 209) …. Said differently, changing the order of
discourse is a political question that entails the collective practice of social actors and the
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That is, the way one discusses tourism development, and their place in the field of
production, will inform its approach, methodology, and practice. It is in this manner
that practitioners can move beyond the teleology of the development paradigm, open-
ing the way for alternative views of how individuals and groups work to ‘improve’
themselves as active agents, and how outsiders can productively contribute to the
process on a more equitable basis.
Notes
1. In Article 22, the League of Nations outlined the ‘stages of development’ that all peoples
will inevitably undergo (Rist, 1997, p. 73).
2. In 1974, after much debate within IUOTO, the association transformed itself into the
UNWTO, whose ‘fundamental aim … shall be the promotion and development of tourism
with a view to contributing to economic development, … pay[ing] particular attention to
the interests of the developing countries in the field of tourism’ (UNWTO, 1974, p. 83).
3. Ethnographic research in H i An was undertaken from 2001–2006. Interviews contained
in this article were conducted in August 2006. This portion of the article is based on a more
detailed discussion of museumification and politics of World Heritage in Chapter 7 of Di
Giovine (2009, pp. 261–274).
4. Retrieved October 29, 2006, from www.vietnamtourism.com/e_pages/heritage/Hoian.asp
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