GORE

ECO-FRIENDLY
DYEING

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OUTLINE

• Background
• Textile Wet Processing
– Desizing
– Scouring
– Bleach Clean Up
• Cold Pad Batch Dyeing

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BACKGROUND

Increasing awareness for a cleaner and

greener living standards

Enforcement of stricter guidelines and rulings

from various associations and Government
bodies

Challenges faced by Textile Dyeing

companies around the world alike

Matex’s belief in being eco logically efficient

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DYEING

Desizing Garment
ZENZYME-15

Scouring
FABRIWT-LF Finishing

Bleach
Dyeing
Clean Up DYELEVELLER-RDL Soaping
LASER-PCM
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DESIZING

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DESIZING

• Removal of starch used as size during

weaving to prevent unleveled dyeing
and poor batch-to-batch reproducibility

• Traditional Desizing Methods

– Acidic: Sulphuric or hydrochloric acid
– Oxidative: Persulphate plus alkali or
bromite and alkali
These treatments reduce the tensile strength
of the fabric.

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DESIZING
• Desizing with biocatalyst
• Advantages:
– LESS chemicals involved
– ECO-FRIENDLY
– EFFICIENT in wide range
temperature
– Specific, NO damage to cellulose
fibres
– BETTER strength retention
– SOFTER fabric feel
– SHORTER process
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time
DESIZING GORE

• Mechanism:
– Biocatalyst hydrolyzes α-1,4-linkages
in starch

HYDROLYSIS

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DESIZING

• Test for degree of desizing

– Tegewa Scale

Tegewa Rating: 1 Tegewa Rating: 7

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SCOURING

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SCOURING

• Removal of impurities such as

– Waxes – Hemicelluloses
– Pectins – Mineral salts
from raw cotton during the early stages
of textile wet processing

• Prepares fabric for subsequent

treatments
– Mercerizing – Printing
– Bleaching – Finishing
– Dyeing

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 SCOURING

In highly alkaline condition

Conventional Alkalin
Neutralisation
e
Fabric
Scouring Washing Dyeing
Input No Neutralization
Alternative bioscourig
At low alkalinity (pH 8.5)

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SCOURING

Advantages of bio Scouring:

– ECO-FRIENDLY (less harsh
chemical – caustic soda)
– LESS rinse water needed
– REDUCE effluent load
– REDUCE water consumption
– SAVE energy
– SAVE cost
– Fully RETAIN cellulose structure

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SCOURING

• Wetting Test

Grey Fabric Treated Fabric

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SCOURING

Measurement Bioscouring Alkaline scouring

pH 8 – 9.5 13-14
Temperature 50 – 60oC (extract at 75 - 95 – 100Oc
Residual pectin 22-30% 10-15%

Weight loss <1.5% 4-10%

Wettablility, drop test < 1 second < 1 second
Brightness increase + 1-5% points + 5 -10% points
Bleach ability Same Same
Dye ability Same Same
Rinse water 35-50% 100%
consumption
Total diss solids (TDS) 20-50% 100%
BOD 20-45% 100%
COD 20-45% 100%

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Basic Assumption Energy Saving Alkaline Bioscourin

Scouring g
Total fabric 20
processed / day Energy cost
(tonne) Base temperature (oC) 30 30
Fabric cost per kg $1.00
(USD) Scouring Temperature (oC) 95 60
Liquor ratio 1:7
o
Temperature differential ( C) 65 30
Total water required 140
(tonne) Steam required / 1 tonne water 185.71 85.71
Total steam required (tonne) 26 12
Total steam cost / day (Rs) Rs 200,000/-1 Rs100,000/-
Steam cost saving / year2 (Rs) - Rs

Fabric Saving Alkaline Bioscourin

Scouring g
Weight loss cost
1 Total fabric weight lost (%) 4 -10 <1.5
Based on steam cost
Rs800.00/tonne of steam Total fabric weight lost / day (kg) 8003 3004
2
Based on 300 working days per
Total weight lost cost / day $800 $300
year
3 (USD)
Based on 4% fabric weight lost Weight lost cost saving / year2 0 $150,000
4
Based on 1.5% fabric weight lost (Rs)

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BLEACH CLEAN UP

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BLEACH CLEAN GORE

• Removal of H2O2 residual to

ensure leveled dyeing
• Bleach Clean Up Alternatives
– By rinsing only
Bleaching Rinsing Rinsing Rinsing Rinsing Dyeing

– By reducing agent
Reducing
Bleaching Rinsing Agent Rinsing Dyeing

– With biocatalyst
Bleaching Rinsing Biocatalys Dyeing
t

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BLEACH CLEAN GORE

• Advantages of using biocatalyst:

– SAVE water
• No rinsing required. Can proceed in the same
bath with dyeing process
– SAVE energy
• No more hot rinse, cold rinse, hot rinse…
– SAVE time
• As short as 10 min to complete the job!
– SAFE
• H2O2 complete removal without affecting
dyestuff or textile materials

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BLEACH CLEAN GORE

• Bleach Clean Up with Biocatalyst

Temperature °C

- Adjust pH as
Bleaching desired for
100 subsequent dyeing
- Add biocatalyst
80 - Check
peroxide level
60

40
Bleach Dyeing
20 -Drain Clean Up
-Fill cold

Time (min)
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60

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BLEACH CLEAN

Water Usage in the Various Bleach

Clean Up
Method
s
4.5

3.5

3
No of Rinse

2.5

2
Baths

1.5

0.5

0
Water Reductive Biocatalyst
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 Process Time for the Various Bleach
Clean Up
Method
s
140

120

100
Minute

80

60
s

40

20

0
Water Reductive Biocatalyst

Bleaching Rinsing H2O2 Removal

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COLD PAD BATCH

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 COLD PAD BATCH GORE

• A more environmentally sound and

higher quality dyeing method

• Process steps:
Padding Roll Batching
Washing Soaping Washing
Dryi ng

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 COLD PAD BATCH GORE

• Total volume of pad-trough Alkali

Dyes/
Auxiliaries

10 / 15 litres per metre of

width of fabric (example 2
metres; volume 20 to 30
litres)
• Immersion time 1.5sec 1 volume 4 volumes Batching Vessels

• Bath temperature 25 –
30°C Mixing Vessel

• Pick up 70 – 80%
• Fabric speed such as the
time to completely renew
the trough should not
exceed 10 minutes Foulard with an

• Batching time: 8 – 16hrs automatic level-

adjustment

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 COLD PAD BATCH GORE

• Advantages of Cold Pad Batch Dyeing:

– Simplicity in process of dyestuff application
– Reduction in water consumption by 50 to 80%
– Reduction in energy consumption by up to 60%
– Reduction in chemical costs,other than
dyestuff, by up to 50% due to elimination of
salt and reduction of alkali requirements
– Reduction in labor costs by 40 to 60%
– Minimum fabric abrasion
– Excellent shade reproducibilSiotuyrc fCroottomn I
l2o00t3/tRoI
EFD
lot SFW07
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• Reactive dyestuff
– A dye type that connect to the fiber through
chemical reactions (covalent bond)

MONO REACTIVE BIFUNCTIONAL REACTIVE

DYE-R R1-DYE-R2

FIXATION HYDROLIsATION FIXATION

HYDROLIsATION 75%
75% 25%s
25%

R2-DYE-OH R2-DYE-Ocell
DYE-OH DYE-Ocell

HYDROLIZATION FIXATION
6% 19%

HO-DYE-OH HO-DYE-Ocell

TOTAL TOTAL
25% HYDROLIZATION 6% HYDROLIZATION
75% FIXATION 94% FIXATION

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COLD PAD GORE

BATCH
–Bifunctional Reactive Dyes Group or
--Laser ED Series (Economical & Dense.)

– Low to medium substantivity, medium to

high reactivity, solid shades
– Excellent build-up, high color yield and
fixation
– Good fastness
– Good repeatability
– Good Tri-Chromic compatibility
– Meet “Oeko-Tex 100” requirement
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COLD PAD BATCH GORE

•Laser ED Series
&
Trichromatic
Compatibility
From the
illustration &data
values, it shows that
The Tri-chromatic
colors are compatible
& they give the
similar shade & tone
throughout from the
1st fabric to the 40th/
or Last fabric.

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COLD PAD BATCH GORE

Cost Comparison on Reactive Dyeing pre-bleached 100%

Cotton
Item Beck Beck Pad- Pad-batch Total %
Cost Batch cost saving Saving
Batch size 500 kgs - 500 kgs -
Liquor Ratio 15 : 1 - 1:1 -
Water 10000 2000 73.6%
consumption lts lts
Steam 5.2 4,350 lbs 67.6%
Consumption Kgs
Electrical 60 kWh < 30 50.0%
Consumption kWh
Salt 400 kgs 0 100%
Total(Exclude - 77.8%
Dyestuff / Labour)

1. Based on water & sewer cost of Rs 240.00/5000 Lts.

2. Based on steam cost Rs 250.00/ 400 Kgs of steam. Pad-batch includes extra drying.
3. Based on electric power cost of Rs 5.0/ Unit.

3007
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