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Am J Clin Dermatol

DOI 10.1007/s40257-016-0237-x

REVIEW ARTICLE

Literature Review of Cosmetic Procedures in Men: Approaches


and Techniques are Gender Specific
Brandon E. Cohen1 • Sameer Bashey1 • Ashley Wysong1

Ó Springer International Publishing Switzerland 2016

Abstract The proportion of men receiving non-surgical


cosmetic procedures has risen substantially in recent years. Key Points
Various physiologic, anatomic, and motivational consid-
erations differentiate the treatments for male and female The number of male patients seeking cosmetic
patients. Nevertheless, research regarding approaches to dermatologic procedures has rapidly expanded in
the male cosmetic patient is scarce. We sought to provide recent years and continues to grow.
an overview and sex-specific discussion of the most pop-
ular cosmetic dermatologic procedures pursued by men by Key differences in desired outcomes and sex-specific
conducting a comprehensive literature review pertaining to anatomy differentiate treatments for male and female
non-surgical cosmetic procedures in male patients. The patients.
most common and rapidly expanding non-surgical inter- Further focus on sex-based differences in aesthetic
ventions in men include botulinum toxin, filler injection, dermatology is warranted to best serve the male
chemical peels, microdermabrasion, laser resurfacing, laser patient.
hair removal, hair transplantation, and minimally invasive
techniques for adipose tissue reduction. Important sex-
specific factors associated with each of these procedures
should be considered to best serve the male cosmetic
patient. 1 Introduction

Over recent decades, the number of men interested in using


cosmetic medicine has increased significantly. Women
continue to receive the majority of aesthetic procedures,
but the current demand among men is substantial and
expanding [1–4]. According to the American Society of
Dermatologic Surgery, male patients received 10–11% of
all non-surgical cosmetic treatments in 2014 [5]. The
American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery reported
that over 1 million procedures involved male patients in
2014, corresponding to a 273% increase since the annual
surveys began in 1997 [6].
& Ashley Wysong Proposed explanations for this trend include a desire to
Ashley.Wysong@med.usc.edu appear more youthful and competitive in the workplace,
1 the establishment of cosmetic procedures as a social norm,
Department of Dermatology, Keck School of Medicine,
University of Southern California, 1441 Eastlake Avenue, and the growing availability of non-surgical options
Ezralow Tower 5301, Los Angeles, CA 90033, USA [2, 4, 7–10]. Men gravitate towards minimally invasive
B. E. Cohen et al.

procedures because of concerns about post-procedure aging and the approach to cosmetic interventions. For
downtime and observable signs of a recent procedure example, the increased thickness of male skin leads men to
[3, 9]. Accordingly, the expansion of cosmetic interven- develop rhytides at a later age; however, the more robust
tions in men is most striking when specifically examining muscle tone means they ultimately develop deeper wrin-
the rates of minimally invasive aesthetic procedures. kles, often requiring more aggressive treatment [2]. Dif-
Dhaliwal and Friedman [7] reported that the rate of non- ferences also relate to rates of procedure complications.
surgical cosmetic procedures in men increased by 722% Men are at higher risk of post-procedure bruising because
between 1997 and 2008. Between 2010 and 2014, the use of their more dense facial vasculature [16]. They have also
of botulinum toxin in men increased by 84%, hyaluronic been shown to be more susceptible to skin infections and
acid fillers increased by 94%, and intense pulse light have slower wound healing than females receiving the
treatments increased by 44% [6]. same aesthetic procedures [1, 12, 15].
It is pertinent to recognize that the approach to male and Men have distinct motivating factors and treatment
female cosmetic patients is not identical. Physiologic and preferences when pursuing aesthetic procedures. For
anatomic differences between sexes have practical impli- instance, men tend to be more concerned about discrete
cations for cosmetic interventions [1, 11–14]. For example, bothersome areas than the overall aging appearance [2, 9].
men demonstrate a gradual loss of cutaneous and subcu- Many seek to refine features but maintain a masculine
taneous tissue over time, whereas women have a more appearance in the process. In addition, men tend to find a
sudden decrease after menopause [13, 14]. Male skin has single day of multiple treatments preferable to treatments
several distinct characteristics, including a thicker epider- spread out over multiple sessions.
mis and dermis, higher density of hair follicles, greater Despite these distinctions, there is a scarcity of research,
sebum and sweat production, and an increased ratio of and often little clinical focus, on the perspective of the
muscle to subcutaneous tissue [1, 2, 15, 16]. Men also have male cosmetic patient. Keaney and Alster [16] reviewed 17
a larger forehead, lower-set horizontal eyebrows, thinner trials involving botulinum toxin and reported that only two
lips, and a more pronounced chin and jawline (Fig. 1) studies included sex in the study design or as part of sub-
[10, 16]. These differences influence the manifestations of group analyses. Furthermore, women accounted for nearly

Fig. 1 Sex differences in facial anatomy. Males demonstrate a greater forehead width and length, larger cranium, narrower cheeks, larger chin
and mandible, less pronounced zygoma, lower set eyebrows, and deeper rhytides
Cosmetic Procedures in Men

90% of the aggregate patient population among studies administered various doses of Dysport based on glabellar
considered. size and participant sex (50–70 units for women and 60–80
This article provides an overview and sex-specific dis- units for men) and similarly concluded that male patients
cussion of the most popular non-surgical cosmetic proce- with greater muscle mass required larger doses. Taken
dures pursued by men, including botulinum toxin, filler together, these studies suggest that relatively large doses of
injection, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, laser resur- botulinum toxin are safe and often necessary for adequate
facing, laser hair removal, hair transplantation, and mini- response in men [16–18, 20].
mally invasive fat reduction. We also review evolving Sex differences when treating the forehead have also
trends in cosmetic procedures for men, discuss the indi- been reported. Botox doses of 15 units are adequate for
cations for and approach to performing cosmetic inter- the female frontalis, but men often require 25 units or
ventions in men, and highlight relevant differences in more [21]. Female eyebrows typically contain an arch in
treatments between the sexes. We conducted a literature the mid lateral aspect of the eyebrow, while men have
search using the PubMed/MEDLINE, Google Scholar, and lower-set horizontal eyebrows residing along the
Science Direct databases using the search terms male, men, supraorbital ridge (Fig. 2) [16, 22]. Accordingly, botuli-
gender, cosmetic dermatology, and/or aesthetic dermatol- num injection in the lateral eyebrows is avoided in
ogy. We considered all available prospective and retro- women but often performed in men to avoid a feminine
spective studies and expert reviews pertaining to cosmetic appearance [21].
dermatologic procedures in men, with an emphasis on Masseter muscle hypertrophy can be managed with
prospective trials, and excluded articles involving invasive botulinum toxin to produce muscle atrophy and a leaner
surgical cosmetic procedures. facial structure. Typically, 25–40 units of Botox injected
into each side of the face is suggested [23, 24]; however, up
to 60 units per side may be required in male patients
2 Cosmetic Procedures [24, 25]. To lessen the risk of toxin diffusion to nearby
muscles, the initial injection volume should not exceed
2.1 Botulinum Toxin 1.5 ml [24]. Botulinum toxin is also commonly used in
men to reduce depressor anguli oris (DAO) muscle tone, as
Botulinum toxin injection is the most commonly performed excess DAO tone can create a fixed frowning appearance
cosmetic procedure among men, increasing by 84% since [2, 26]. An initial dose of 2–5 units of Botox is recom-
2010 [6]. Three US FDA-approved forms of botulinum mended, and care should be taken to avoid injection into
toxin are available in the USA: onabotulinumtoxinA (Bo- the depressor labii inferioris to minimize the risk of pro-
toxÒ; Allergan, Irvine, CA, USA), abobotulinumtoxinA ducing an asymmetric smile [2, 26, 27].
(DysportÒ; Galderma USA, Fort Worth, TX, USA), and
incobotulinumtoxinA (XeominÒ; Merz, Frankfurt, Ger- 2.2 Filler Injection
many). The commonly accepted equivalence dosage
between Botox/Xeomin and Dysport is 1.0 to 2.0–2.75 Cosmetic fillers are an increasingly popular technique for
units. non-invasive skin rejuvenation, volume replacement, and
The majority of studies involving botulinum toxin have soft tissue augmentation. In 2014, hyaluronic acid (HA)
focused on female patients, but several trials have exam- fillers were the second most common non-surgical cos-
ined its use in men. Brandt et al. [17] investigated the metic procedure obtained by men [6, 28]. The use of fillers
efficacy of 50 units of Dysport for moderate–severe has increased over sixfold in men since 1997 and is
glabellar lines in 135 female and 23 male participants. expected to continue to rise [8].
Treatment response was defined as an improvement from a HA is the most prevalent filler material used in both men
score of 2 or 3 (moderate or severe) to a score of 0 or 1 and women [8, 29]. Several novel long-lasting injectables,
(none or mild) on an investigator-graded severity scale. In including polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) and calcium
a sex sub-analysis, women demonstrated a higher rate of hydroxylapatite fillers, are becoming increasingly popular
treatment response than men (93 vs. 67%). The authors in men, especially for the nasolabial folds [8, 30]. Perma-
proposed that the 50 units of Dysport used in the study was nent fillers may be attractive for men who wish to minimize
an insufficient dose in men because of the greater muscle the requirement for repeated treatments [30]. However,
mass of the male face [17]. Carruthers and Carruthers [18] patients receiving permanent fillers should be followed
investigated treatment with 20, 40, 60, or 80 units of Botox closely for adverse events, such as the development of
in 80 men for the treatment of glabellar wrinkles and found nodules, edema, and granuloma, as the time course of
a dose-dependent relationship. Higher doses did not result potential complications is more variable than with resorb-
in an increase in adverse events [18]. Kane et al. [19] able fillers [31].
B. E. Cohen et al.

Fig. 2 Sex differences in eyebrow shape. Males have lower-set, horizontal eyebrows lacking an arch in the lateral aspect

There are several key differences in the utilization of are associated with more desirable nasal appearance in both
fillers between men and women. Larger filler doses may sexes [35, 36].
generally be required because men have thicker skin [20]. Another common use of fillers is for augmentation of the
Compared with men, women prefer a fuller face, higher male jawline. A prominent jawline is often considered an
cheeks, and a more accentuated sub-malar region [10]. attractive masculine trait [9, 10, 16]. In contrast, the female
Data previously published by our group show the typical face is associated with a softer jawline and an oval, less
ratio of medial to lateral cheek tissue in women is 1:5 square-shaped, face. Consequently, volume loss and skin
compared with 1:1 in men, measured objectively with laxity along the jawline are frequent aesthetic concerns in
magnetic resonance imaging [13, 14]. Distribution and men. Filler may be injected into the mandibular angle to
placement of filler for the cheek area should account for produce a stronger posterior jawline or injected along the
these anatomic differences to avoid overfilling of the malar length of the body of the mandible to augment the inferior
cheek and feminization of the male face (Fig. 3). In addi- jawline [9, 37].
tion, men have thinner lips and a wider mouth than women,
which must be taken into account when performing lip 2.3 Chemical Peels
augmentation in men.
Fillers can be used for non-invasive rhinoplasty in Chemical peels are a popular method for minimally inva-
patients who wish to defer surgical intervention, have only sive skin resurfacing, and usage in men has increased by
slight contour irregularities, or desire correction of post- 128% since 2010 [6]. Superficial peels cause various
surgical asymmetry [32]. Limited filler volumes, ranging degrees of epidermis necrosis without involving the der-
from 0.1 to 0.4 ml of HA, are often described [32–34]. mis, resulting in re-epithelialization and a more homoge-
However, larger quantities may be considered in men to nous appearance of the skin [3]. Superficial peels are often
accommodate the longer and wider male nose. Studies used in males for minor photoaging, superficial hyperpig-
assessing sex differences of the nose suggest that the aes- mentation, surface irregularities, pseudofolliculitis barbae,
thetically optimal male nose has a higher nasion, increased and acne vulgaris [38, 39]. Medium-strength peels extend
nasolabial angle, and straighter profile than that of the into the papillary dermis and are useful for dyspigmenta-
female nose [35, 36]. Lack of humps and a supra-tip break tion, superficial rhytides, minor scarring, and actinic
Cosmetic Procedures in Men

Fig. 3 Sex differences in cheek


structure. Females have a fuller
face with a greater ratio of
lateral to medial cheek tissue

keratosis [38, 39]. However, the use of medium-depth peels Few sex-based differences require consideration when
is limited by a 1- to 2-week recovery period, as well as a using chemical peels. Men tend to prefer superficial peels
greater risk of prolonged erythema or dyspigmentation because of the limited associated downtime [40]. However,
[2, 3, 39]. since men have thicker and deeper wrinkles and a higher
B. E. Cohen et al.

degree of photo-damage, male skin may be more refractory 2.6 Laser Hair Removal
to the benefit of peels. In addition, the more sebaceous skin
and higher density of hair follicles may render male skin Laser hair removal was the third most common non-sur-
more resistant to peeling. Consequently, men often require gical cosmetic procedure in men in 2014 [6]. As the aes-
more treatments or a higher concentration of peeling agents thetic appeal of a hairless body has increased, the removal
than do women [39]. of undesired body hair is a frequent practice among men
[47, 48]. Laser treatment, administered over multiple ses-
2.4 Microdermabrasion sions, has emerged as the leading method to permanently
remove or significantly reduce unwanted hair [49].
Microdermabrasion is a well-established modality for the Lasers used for hair removal deliver wavelengths
management of photo-damage, scarring, rhytides, acne selectively absorbed by melanin in the hair follicle,
vulgaris, and mild rhinophyma [3, 41, 42]. Microder- resulting in follicle destruction. Common laser devices
mabrasion causes mechanical ablation of the epidermis and used for hair removal include the Nd:YAG, diode, long-
superficial dermis through abrasion with aluminum oxide pulse ruby, and long-pulse alexandrite lasers [49, 50]. The
or sodium hydroxide crystals in a hand-held close-looped Nd:YAG laser is associated with the lowest rates of post-
negative pressure system [41–43]. Multiple treatments are treatment erythema, dyspigmentation, purpura, and folli-
necessary, typically at 1-month intervals [41]. culitis and is safest for darker skin types [49–51]. Men
In 2014, microdermabrasion was the fifth most common typically have thicker and more pigmented hair, and
non-surgical cosmetic procedure in men [6]. Benefits from therefore the fluence levels can be lower than those used in
microdermabrasion may be especially apparent in men women. The phototype of the patient is an important
because they undergo exfoliation procedures less regularly consideration, as melanin in the surrounding skin can also
than women and may have more skin debris. Prior to absorb laser energy, which can potentially result in dys-
treatment, male patients should be instructed to shave pigmentation [2].
3–4 h before facial procedures and refrain from shaving
again until 12 h after the procedure [42]. 2.7 Hair Transplantation

2.5 Laser and Light-Based Therapy Androgenetic alopecia affects up to one-half of men by the
age of 50 years [52]. Initial management includes minox-
According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic idil solution and 5-alpha-reductase inhibitors [53, 54]. In
Surgery, the use of laser and light-based procedures in men patients who do not respond to first-line treatments and
increased 9.4 times between 1997 and 2014 [6]. Certain camouflage, hair transplantation is an efficacious and
indications for laser treatment are more common in males, evolving option for hair restoration [55].
including acne scars, periorbital rhytides, poikiloderma, Hair transplantation takes advantage of the principle that
and rhinophyma. Men are generally less amenable to the hair in the posterior occipital scalp is more durable and less
prolonged downtime associated with traditional ablative reactive to hormonal changes than hair in the frontal scalp
lasers and often prefer treatment with fractional or non- or vertex and will retain this characteristic after trans-
ablative devices [3]. Fractional lasers treat the skin in plantation [55]. Frontal and mid-frontal alopecia is most
discrete columns, which facilitates quicker recovery and amenable to hair transplantation, whereas the vertex
reduces the risk of adverse effects [3, 44]. As non-ablative demonstrates more progressive loss [53].
lasers leave the epidermis largely intact, they have a The most common approach to hair transplantation is
favorable side effect profile. However, multiple treatment known as follicular unit transplantation (FUT). An ellipti-
sessions are necessary, and final treatment outcomes can be cal donor strip is removed from the occipital scalp, and one
modest compared with those of ablative lasers [44]. Intense to four hair follicle groups are separated and transplanted
pulse light (IPL) is a useful non-ablative light-based ther- through 1000–2000 created pores in areas of alopecia
apy for skin rejuvenation and poikiloderma and is associ- [54, 55]. Follicular unit extraction (FUE) is an alternative
ated with the minimal downtime demanded by many male approach in which individual punches—rather than an
patients [45, 46]. However, because men have thickened intact strip—are taken from the donor scalp [54]. FUE
skin, additional passes or higher fluence may be required results in reduced scarring from the donor area, which may
with a non-ablative laser [9]. Several laser wavelengths can be preferable in men with shorter posterior hair. Disad-
also have off-target effects on the hair; therefore, the vantages associated with FUE include a greater rate of hair
treatment plan must include a discussion about the desire transection during harvesting and an inability to harvest as
for facial hair, and care must be taken to select the many grafts, resulting in less dense transplanted hair [54].
appropriate laser treatment. Nonetheless, FUE is an increasingly popular option.
Cosmetic Procedures in Men

One modification to conventional hair transplantation is neck and is associated with reduced tissue trauma, minimal
laser-assisted hair transplantation (LHT), during which downtime, and—through thermally induced coagulation—
recipient site channels are created using an ablative laser reduced blood loss and ecchymosis [61, 62, 64–66]. LAL
[52, 56, 57]. Benefits of LHT include shorter procedure has also been shown to induce dermal reorganization,
duration, less trauma to the recipient’s scalp, and a reduced resulting in skin retraction and limited residual excess skin
risk of graft compression. However, it is also associated [63, 67].
with a modest delay in hair growth, increased crusting, and Cryolipolysis is another emerging modality for fat
higher costs [56]. reduction that is growing in popularity among men. The
One emerging modality for hair restoration is low- central principle of cryolipolysis is that, relative to sur-
level laser therapy (LLLT) using the Hair-Max rounding tissue, adipocytes are more sensitive to cold
LaserCombÒ (Lexington International, Boca Raton, FL, exposure [68]. Therefore, cold temperatures can selectively
USA) [54, 58]. Several recent studies have demonstrated eliminate adipose tissue without damage to skin or other
promise using this novel approach to hair restoration. In structures. During the procedure, a segment of skin and
one trial, 35 patients underwent LLLT treatment for subcutaneous tissue is pulled between two cooling plates
androgenic alopecia. They were instructed to use the and gradually cooled to nearly 0 °C [69]. After 2–4 weeks,
Hair-Max LaserCombÒ at home for 5–10 min every adipocytes begin to undergo apoptosis and phagocytosis
other day. After 6 months, hair count and tensile strength [70].
had increased by 94 and 79%, respectively [58]. Jimenez Dierickx et al. [71] reviewed the outcomes of cry-
et al. [59] randomized 225 patients (103 male) with olipolysis in 518 patients and reported an average 23%
androgenetic alopecia to treatments with the Hair-Max reduction in fat thickness on caliper measurements after
LaserCombÒ or a sham device three times a week for 3 months [71]. The most responsive sites were the abdo-
26 weeks. After this time, the treatment group demon- men, flank, and back. Adverse effects were limited to
strated a statistically significant increase in terminal hair erythema, edema, and transient soreness. One-third of
density with no reports of significant adverse effects patients also experienced 1–2 months of hypoesthesia [71].
[59]. Similar results were reported in a separate sham Dover et al. [72] reported a 22% reduction in flank adi-
device controlled trial involving 110 patients [60]. LLLT posity on ultrasound exam 4 months after one treatment in
shows initial promise; however, larger randomized trials 32 patients. Long-term outcomes suggest treated areas
are necessary to further confirm the efficacy of this novel retain a reduced propensity to develop adipose tissue, even
modality. after future weight gain [68].
One noteworthy potential complication of cryolipolysis
2.8 Minimally Invasive Fat Reduction: Laser- is paradoxical adipose hyperplasia (PAH), which describes
Assisted Liposuction and Cryolipolysis an unintended non-reversible increase of adipose tissue at
the treatment site. The development of PAH is rare, with an
Liposuction was the most common surgical cosmetic estimated incidence of 0.05% [69]. Although the mecha-
intervention in men in 2014 [6]. Despite this popularity, it nism of adipose hyperplasia is unknown, it has been sug-
is associated with post-surgical downtime and recovery gested that the incidence is higher in males [69].
[61]. Males have more fibrous tissue than females, resulting One male-specific indication for fat reduction is pseu-
in increased edema, bruising, and soreness after liposuction dogynecomastia, or excess breast adiposity. Treatment of
[62]. Furthermore, liposuction of the lower abdomen can pseudogynecomastia has risen by 117% since 1997 and by
result in scrotal bruising and edema [62]. Novel minimally 7.1% between 2103 and 2014 [6]. LAL has been shown to
invasive modalities for the reduction of adiposity include be an effective option for the management of pseudogy-
laser-assisted liposuction (LAL) and cryolipolysis, which necomastia. One case series of five patients treated with the
are among the fastest expanding cosmetic procedures in 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser reported significant improvements
men [5]. In fact, between 2012 and 2014, non-invasive fat- in pseudogynecomastia on ultrasound and computed
reduction procedures increased 158% among male patients tomography (CT) scan assessment [73]. Cryolipolysis has
[6]. also been shown to be effective for excess breast adiposity.
LAL involves the introduction of an optical fiber In one study, 21 male patients with pseudogynecomastia
encased within a micro-cannula into the subcutaneous tis- received two cycles of cryolipolysis spaced 60 days apart
sue after tumescent anesthesia. Laser energy is then used to [74]. At final follow-up, 95% of participants reported
thermally eliminate localized adipose deposits. Commonly visually recognizable improvement, and sonography
employed lasers for LAL include the non-ablative 1064 nm demonstrated a fat reduction of 1.6 mm. Of note, one
Nd:YAG and 980 nm diode lasers [63, 64]. LAL is par- participant in this study developed PAH requiring surgical
ticularly suitable for compact areas such as the head and management [74].
B. E. Cohen et al.

Table 1 Clinician-reported submental fat rating scale 3 Conclusion


Score Description
Male patients represent a distinct and expanding demo-
0 Absent submental convexity: no localized submental fat graphic in cosmetic dermatology. Men are especially well
evident
suited for minimally invasive cosmetic procedures, as they
1 Mild submental convexity: minimal, localized submental fat
are generally less willing to undergo cosmetic surgery
2 Moderate submental convexity: prominent, localized
associated with significant downtime and visible signs of a
submental fat
recent cosmetic procedure. Men continue to be a neglected
3 Severe submental convexity: marked, localized submental fat
demographic despite their booming interest in aesthetic
4 Extreme submental convexity
procedures. Considering the aging population, demand for
aesthetic procedures is expected to continue to rise [79].
Accordingly, further attention on the experience of the
2.9 Deoxycholic Acid male cosmetic patient, as well as sex-specific differences in
treatment, is warranted to best serve this growing
Excess submental adiposity is a frequent cosmetic concern demographic.
in men and can develop in individuals who are not other-
wise overweight. A pharmacologic submental contouring Compliance with Ethical Standards
method that uses the bile acid deoxycholic acid has
Funding No sources of funding were used to conduct this study or
recently been approved by the FDA [75]. Injection with prepare this manuscript.
deoxycholic acid, commercially available as KybellaÒ
(Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Westlake Village, CA, Conflict of interest Brandon E. Cohen, Sameer Bashey, and Ashley
USA), results in selective adipose membrane destruction Wysong have no conflicts of interest that are directly relevant to the
content of this work.
[76]. Surrounding cells are relatively more resistant to
deoxycholic acid because of a higher concentration of
membrane proteins than of adipocytes [77]. Deoxycholic
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