Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
to Play Drums
The Complete Drum Method Volume One
Essential Drum Techniques, Grooves, Fills, Patterns and Rhythms
Published by www.fundamental-changes.com
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Repetition
You will achieve a higher level of proficiency in drumming if you
repeat the exercises and drum phrasing as often as possible. It doesn’t
always have to be on a drum kit – you can use a practice pad or even
tap on your legs
Listening
It is important to listen to music as often as possible. As your
drumming knowledge grows you will be able to analyse what the
drummer is doing on a record. This will give you new ideas and open
the door to more playing possibilities.
What You Will Need:
Standard Four-Piece Drum Kit
This includes:
Snare drum
Bass drum
Top tom
Floor tom
Hi-Hat
Ride
Crash
Drum stool
Hardware for these elements
Sticks
There are many sticks on the market; find a pair that you find comfortable to
hold.
Practice Pad
These are usually round and made of rubber. The practice pad is designed for
quieter practise.
Music Stand
This is for holding your music, so you can play and read easily.
Digital Metronome
Use this to practise your time keeping.
Lesson One – Introduction to the
Drum Kit
Lesson Overview
Lesson one is an introduction to the drum kit and the basic elements of how to
play. We will begin with a brief look at the history of the drum kit and how it
came to be standardised in its modern form. We’ll look in detail at every
component of the kit, examining its musical role in drumming. Then, I will
explain how to set up the kit in relation to your body.
Once you’re set up, I’ll demonstrate how to grip the sticks and how to apply grip
technique to your playing. This is a fundamental building block of solid
drumming. Finally, I’ll show you some simple exercises to get you using the
drum kit the right way.
What are you waiting for? Let’s dive in!
A Brief History of the Drum Kit
The drum kit that we know and love today did not just simply appear. Its roots
can be traced back over 150 years and evolved out of military and orchestral
percussion. These styles of music feature bass drums, snare drums and cymbals,
but instead of being played by a single drummer, there is one percussionist for
each instrument. It wasn’t until the mid 1800s, in theatre and stage shows, that
percussionists began experimenting with playing multiple drums.
Due to limited budgets in shows and bands it was unaffordable to hire several
percussionists. As a result, percussionists had to work out how to play multiple
parts at the same time, which led to a technique known as double drumming
(where a percussionist plays the snare and the bass with their hands at the same
time). This was the first step towards the development of the drum kit. Double
drumming became widespread in theatre and popular music and was used up to
the early 1900s. During this time players also experimented by adding other
elements to their double drum set up, such as wood blocks, cowbells and small
cymbals.
In the early 1900s the drum kit had a big breakthrough in the form of the bass
drum pedal. There had been earlier attempts to construct a pedal, but none
matched the impact of the 1909 release of the Original Ludwig Pedal . This
allowed drummers to play the bass drum with their foot, giving them more
freedom with their hands and enabling them to create more complicated
rhythms.
The next advancement in the drum kit was the Snowshoe , a pre-cursor to the hi-
hat. This was a pair of shoe-shaped boards, attached together with a spring-
loaded hinge, with small cymbals attached to the end of each board. When the
percussionist pressed down on the top board with their foot, the cymbals struck
each other. Despite its crudeness, the Snowshoe added a whole new dimension of
playing possibilities.
Other companies quickly copied and elaborated on the Snowshoe and soon the
Low-Boy was invented. The Low-Boy looked very similar to the modern hi-hat,
but was only about ten inches tall. It was very popular and soon drummers began
to experiment by playing it with their hands. This created a demand for taller
Low-Boys and so in the early 1920s the hi-hat was invented.
Up until the 1930s, drums were mostly used for time keeping and sound effects.
Many drummer’s setups were so large and diverse with percussive instruments
that the drum kit was referred to as the contraption ! However, this was all about
to change .
During the 1930s, big band music rose to popularity and the drum kit played a
large role in this sound. One of the key drummers of the time was Gene Krupa.
He moved the drum kit from the back of the stage and put it under the spotlight.
His ideas and playing style helped to create the modern drum kit. Krupa stripped
his kit of all extra percussive instruments and concentrated on the bass drum,
snare drum, toms, and cymbals. This became known as the stripped-down kit
and, because of Krupa’s popularity, soon became the standard set up.
Gene Krupa also worked with his drum company to help create the first tuneable
toms. Up until this point, toms were based on traditional Chinese toms, made
from non-tuneable skins pinned onto wooden shells. The new tuneable toms
quickly replaced the traditional Chinese-style toms.
Krupa also collaborated with the Zildjian Cymbal Company to develop the
modern hi-hat cymbals and helped standardise the roles and names of the ride,
crash and splash cymbals. He also developed many techniques and ways of
playing that soon became standard.
The modern drum kit has now come into existence, consisting of the stripped-
down kit, hi-hats, bass drum pedal, tuneable toms and standardised cymbals.
Since this time, manufacturers have continued to refine the drum kit’s aesthetics
and functionality, and drummers have continued to develop new techniques and
ways of playing. From the original double drummers to the drummers of today,
the drum kit has undergone a long evolution and has become a prolific
instrument which has permeated most musical genres and styles.
Standard Four-Piece Drum Kit Components
The term four-piece drum kit refers to the number of drums in the kit: snare, bass
drum, top tom and a floor tom. It typically has three cymbals – hi-hat, ride and a
crash. It also comprises the hardware needed to hold its components. The four-
piece kit is the standard upon which all kit setups are based, and all drum
notation is based on this setup.
Over the next few pages you will see names of the components of the four-piece
drum kit and what makes up these components. Numerous other components
could be added to the standard setup, but this book series focuses on the standard
four-piece drum kit setup with three cymbals.
Drums
1. Snare drum; 2. Top tom; 3. Floor tom; 4. Bass drum (also known as the Kick
drum)
Cymbals
5. Crash; 6. Ride; 7. Hi-Hat
Hardware
8. Straight cymbal stand; 9. Boom cymbal stand; 10. Hi-Hat stand; 11. Snare
drum stand;
12. Bass drum pedal; (not in photo) drum stool.
Drum s
A drum is a cylindrical-shaped percussive instrument with taut membranes
(drum heads) stretched over one or both ends of the cylindrical shell. When the
membranes are struck, either with a hand or a drum stick, they resonate and
produce sound. Drums are typically made of wood, usually oak, maple or birch,
but can be made out of other materials such as plastic, metal or fibreglass, each
of which will affect its sound in different ways.
Drum Anatomy
Size and Thickness – Drums have two measurements, diameter and the depth,
and are referred to by the diameter first, then the depth (e.g. 14” x 5”). The size
of the drum affects the sound it produces. The larger the drum, the lower the
pitch. The thicker the drum shell, the higher the pitch; the thinner the drum shell,
the lower the pitch and the louder the drum.
Types of Drums on a Drum Kit
Bass Drum – A large drum with a low pitch, played with the bass drum pedal.
Mounted horizontally on the floor. The heads are usually muffled to create more
of a thud sound. Diameter: usually 20”, but can range from 16” to 24”. Depth:
usually 18”, but can range from 14” to 24”.
Top Tom – A small drum with a high pitch, played with sticks. Usually used for
fills and accents, but can also be used for rhythmic patterns. Mounted on either
the bass drum or cymbal stand, or can have its own independent stand. Diameter:
usually 10”, but can range from 6” to 16”. Depth: usually 8”, but can range from
6” to 16”.
Floor Tom – A medium drum with a medium-to-low pitch, played with sticks.
Usually played for fills and accents, but can also be used for rhythmic patterns.
Mounted on three legs which sit on the floor, or can be attached to a cymbal
stand. Diameter: usually 16”, but can range from 12” to 20”. Depth: usually 14”,
but can range from 10” to 20”.
Snare Drum – A medium drum with a high pitch. Probably the most expressive
drum in the kit due to its sensitivity and high-tension tuning. The snare wires
attached to its bottom head give it its characteristic sound. Usually mounted on
its own stand. Diameter: usually 14”, but can range from 10” to 15”. Depth:
usually 5”, but can range from 3” to 12” .
Cymbals
A cymbal is usually a round, slightly concave disc of metal made of a bronze-
based alloy. When played, it produces a sound of indefinite pitch and has
multiple tonal and harmonic properties.
Cymbal Anatomy
The edge of a cymbal creates its fullest and loudest sound and is also the thinnest
part. The surface produces the majority of the cymbal’s vibrations and sound.
Playing closer to the bell produces a higher, sharper pitch. Playing closer to the
edge produces a lower, fuller sound. The bell produces a separate tone from the
rest of the cymbal – usually a singular, high tone.
Size and Thickness – Typically, the larger the cymbal the lower pitch, with a
louder volume and longer sustain. The smaller the cymbal, the higher pitch, with
a shorter sustain. Thinner cymbals have a greater response, a lower pitch and a
shorter sustain. Thicker cymbals have less response, a higher pitch and a longer
sustain.
Types of Cymbals on a Drum Kit
Hi-Hat – Paired cymbals used to maintain a rhythmic pattern. Mounted opposite
each other on a hi-hat stand, usually with the thinner cymbal on top. Can be
played with sticks and can be opened and closed with the foot. Diameter: usually
14”, but can range from 10” to 15”.
Ride – Large cymbal used to maintain rhythmic patterns. Diameter: usually 20”,
but can range from 18” to 24”.
Crash – Accent cymbal that creates a sharp sound. Diameter: usually 16”, but
can range from 14” to 20”.
Other Types of Cymbals Include : Splash, Splish, China, Gongs, Bells,
Trashers, Effects Cymbals and Combination Cymbals (hybrids of two types of
cymbals).
Sticks
A drum stick is a type of mallet used to play particular types of percussion. A
drum stick is fashioned from a single piece of lathed wood, usually made of
hickory, oak or maple. These materials are typically used because of their
properties, i.e. strength, resistance to damage, weight, how they flex, how they
rebound. Drum sticks come in many different sizes, weights, materials and
lengths.
Stick Anatomy
The Tip – The main striking part of the stick. It can come in various materials,
most commonly wood or nylon. The tip comes in various shapes, such as: ball,
oval, teardrop, acorn or pointed. These shapes will affect how the stick rebounds
and the sound it produces.
The Shoulder – The tapered section between the shaft and the tip. It is also used
as a striking part of the stick – usually used to hit the edge of the cymbal to
create a louder crash sound.
The Shaft – The main body of the stick, typically cylindrical in shape.
The Butt – The opposite end of the stick to the tip; can also be used for playing.
Stick Length – A longer stick can create more power to give you a greater reach
around the kit. A shorter stick will give you more control and create more
rebound when playing.
Stick Thickness – A thicker stick creates more volume and power. A thinner
stick gives you greater rebound and better control for low-volume playing.
Tip of Stick – The tip affects the attack and overall sound that the stick
produces. A larger tip will create a more powerful hit, but will muffle the attack.
A smaller tip has a sharper attack, but creates less power.
Bass Drum Pedal
The bass drum pedal is an integral part of a drum kit. The pedal converts the
downward motion of a drummer’s leg and foot into a controlled striking action
on the bass drum. The pedal operates by pushing down on the foot plate, which
pulls the drive chain, which in turn pulls and turns the cam. As the cam turns, it
pulls the beater forward and also engages the tension spring, so that when the
foot plate is released the beater returns to it resting position.
The first commercial bass drum pedal was made available in the early 1900s.
Although the bass drum pedal has evolved into many variations – such as the
double bass drum pedal, cable bass drum pedal, the dual-action pedal, etc. – its
basic design has remained the same.
Bass Drum Pedal Anatomy
Both grip techniques are valid. However, this book series will concentrate only
on the matched grip, since this is the most prevalent. There are variations of the
matched grip which will be covered in later lessons.
Matched Grip
How to Construct the Matched Grip
Find the balance point on the stick (fig.1)
With the pad of the thumb and the second knuckle of the index finger,
loosely grip the stick about 3cm below the balance point of the stick.
This creates the pivot point, which will allow the stick to move (fig.2)
Cup the lower half of the stick with your three remaining fingers.
These are the fingers that will control the stick’s motion and rebound
(bounce). These fingers should remain in contact with the stick at all
times. However, you should not grip the stick too tightly, as this will
diminish the amount of rebound and control you get from the stick
(fig.3)
Make sure that your thumb is parallel with the stick (fig.4)
Apply this grip to both hands
Hand and Arm Position
Having your arms and hands in the correct position is incredibly important. This
will allow for the best control over the sticks and your movement.
Hand and Stick Position
Hold the sticks in the matched grip
Have the palms of your hands facing down
Place tips of the sticks in the centre of the snare drum, with the sticks
at a 90-degree angle from each other
Arm Position
Keep a straight back and shoulders to allow for the best range of
movement
Place your elbows loosely at your sides
If your elbows are too far away from your body, this will cause a negative
playing position and will waste a lot of energy. If your elbows are too tight to
your body, this will restrict your movement.
Application of Matched Grip
Striking a Drum
Movement Analysis of Matched Grip and Hand Motion:
1. Start with the tip of the stick in the centre of the snare drum. Hold the
sticks in the matched grip and have the palms of your hands facing
down.
2. Bring the stick to 90-degrees by bending your wrist and slightly
relaxing your fingers
3. Start to bring the tip of the stick to the centre of the snare drum by
straightening your wrist and contracting your fingers.
4. Just before the stick hits the skin, the wrist is straight and the fingers
are contracted.
5. As the stick hits the skin, the fingers relax to allow the stick to
rebound.
6. As the stick rebounds back, the fingers start to control the rebound, by
guiding it back to 90-degrees.
7. As the fingers start to control the rebound of the stick, the wrist starts
to bend.
8. As the stick reaches 90-degrees, the fingers have fully controlled the
rebound and are back in their relaxed position. The wrist is bent and
the whole process is ready to start again.
Do not consciously lift the stick back to 90-degrees; allow the stick to naturally
rebound. This motion is much like bouncing a ball. Striking a drum requires a
relaxed grip, because if you grip the stick too tight it will not rebound. When
practising this, notice that all the movements and elements work together to
create a fluid motion that produces a great sound with great control over the
stick.
Now it’s time to put this into action. Here are eight exercises for practising grip
technique and correct body position. The rhythms in each exercise are the same,
but the hand pattern will change. Play each exercise on its own, until you are
comfortable with it. Then play each exercise continuously for one minute.
Tips
R = right-hand, L = left-hand
While playing, concentrate on your grip, rebound and accuracy. Make
sure the grip is right every time, that the stick is rebounding (not
being lifted), and that the stick is hitting the centre of the drum
While playing, concentrate on your body position. Ensure that you are
sitting correctly. Keep your back straight and your legs and arms in
the correct position
Make sure your timing is correct; make sure that the notes are evenly
spaced apart
Make sure all the notes are the same volume and that both hands are
playing with the same amount of power
Play the exercises at a SLOW, comfortable speed. The point is not to
play them as fast as possible, but to work on your grip technique and
body position
Musical Symbols
Musical symbols are marks and symbols on and around the stave that depict
direction. These directions can include: arrangement, tempo, style, dynamics,
rhythm, pitch, etc.
Drum Notation
We are going to be looking at the specifics of drum notation, including what is
written at the beginning of the stave and where to write each instrument.
At the beginning of a piece of written drum music you will see two symbols on
the stave.
Don’t worry too much about other time signatures at the moment. This is not
something that a beginner drummer needs to know. At the moment, you only
need to concentrate on the time signature 4/4.
Bars and Beats
Bars (aka: Measures)
A bar is a tool used to organise music into equal small sections. This helps keep
track of arrangement, rhythm and time. The time signature indicates the length
of a bar as it dictates the amount and duration of the beats within each bar. Each
bar is separated by a bar line .
Beats
Beats are the term for the basic rhythmic pulses within a bar. The number of
beats in the bar are indicated by the time signature. For example, in a bar of 4/4,
there are four beats and each beat has the length of one 1/4 note. This means that
there are four 1/4 notes in a bar of 4/4, and each 1/4 note is a beat. This does not
limit the rhythmic possibilities, it just means that the count (or pulse ) will be on
these 1/4 notes (or beats).
Whole Notes, 1/2 Notes and 1/4 Note s
A note is simply a visual representation of a relative duration of sound played on
an instrument. Here are whole notes, 1/2 notes and 1/4 notes. These are the first
notes you need to know. Below you see the names of the notes, how they are
written, their duration, and how the notes correspond to each other.
All notes are divisions of each other. A whole note has the duration of four beats
(the length of a bar of 4/4), a 1/2 note has the duration of two beats (half the
duration of a whole note), and a 1/4 note has the duration of one beat (half the
duration of a 1/2 note).
Below you will see how a note is written on the stave and how many beats each
note lasts for.
Reading and Playing Whole Notes, 1/2 Notes and 1/4 Note s
Now that you have an understanding of whole notes, 1/2 notes and 1/4 notes, it’s
time to start playing them. Below are nine exercises written in 4/4 time
signature. Each exercise is two bars long and contains combinations of whole
notes, 1/2 notes and 1/4 notes. Written above each exercise is the count of beats
in the bar. Play each exercise on the snare with your right hand until you are
comfortable with it, then repeat with your left hand.
Tips
Read through each exercise and work out the notes and rests before
playing
Say the count out loud while playing
Keep the count steady (do not speed up or slow down)
Play at a comfortable speed
R = right-hand, L = left-hand
Read through each exercise and work out the stickings before playing
Concentrate on your grip technique and body position, ensuring they
are correct
Say the count out loud while playing
The heel is static on the butt plate of the foot pedal, the foot is in line
with the pedal, and the beater is against the bass drum skin
Raise the front of your foot up (but keep the heel on the butt plate and
your toes on the pedal). This action will bring the beater away from
the bass drum skin
Push down the front of your foot (still keeping your heel on the butt
plate and your toes on the pedal). This movement causes the bass
drum beater to hit the bass drum skin (the faster and harder you push
down, the louder the sound)
Keep your foot in contact with the pedal at all times. This maximises
your efficiency. If your foot comes off the pedal, you waste energy
getting back in contact with the pedal
Keep the beater gently against the skin when you are not playing it
Playing on Two Voices
In drumming terminology, voice refers to an instrument on the kit, so two voices
refers to playing on two instruments on the kit. Below are five exercises for
practising playing on two voices (snare and bass). These exercises are the first in
this series that require you to coordinate your hands and feet. The bass drum is
on constant 1/4 notes and the snare drum has varying 1/4 note patterns. When
playing two voices on the same beat, the voices must be played exactly together,
called unisons . It is imperative that these unisons are precisely in line with each
other and that one is not slightly in front or behind the other.
Extra Information
Notes that are played with the hands are stemmed up. Notes that are
played with the feet are stemmed down. This is to make it clearer to
read.
Notes that are stemmed up are in a separate group to the notes that are
stemmed down. This means that even though they are on the same
stave, they require their own rests.
Play each exercise with your right hand until you are comfortable with it, then
repeat with your left hand.
Tips
Tips
Read through each exercise and work out the sticking before playing it
Say the count out loud while playing
Make sure the unisons between the two voices are together
An 1/8th note has the duration of 1/2 a beat. In a bar of 4/4 there can be eight
1/8th notes. Illustrated below is a diagram of how 1/8th notes correspond with
whole notes, 1/2 notes and 1/4 notes.
The 1/8th notes that are on the 1/4 note beats are on the beat.
The 1/8th notes that are in between the 1/4 note beats are off the beat .
Beaming
1/8th notes can be connected together. This is called beaming. In other words,
they are connected by removing the flag and replacing it with a beam. Beaming
notes does not affect the note duration, it just makes it visually easier to read.
Only notes with flags can be beamed. Notes are usually beamed together to fit
inside one beat, although they can be beamed to fit up to an entire bar.
1/8th Note Sticking Exercise
Much like all the other notes that have been studied so far, stickings are required
when reading 1/8th notes. The exercises below are for practising playing and
reading 1/8th notes. All the exercises have a constant 1/8th note rhythm with
different sticking patterns. Play through each exercise on the snare until you are
comfortable with it .
Tips
R = right-hand, L = left-hand
Read through each exercise before playing it
Work out the sticking before playing
Say the count out loud while playing
Keep the notes even
These four different patterns are the basis for all 1/8th note rhythms. To create an
1/8th note rhythmic pattern, all you have to do is combine these four different
rhythms. With combinations of these four different patterns there are 256
different possible 1/8th notes rhythms in a bar of 4/4.
Examples of Combinations of the Four 1/8th Note Rhythms
1/8th Note Rhythm Exercises
Below are eight exercises for practising 1/8th note rhythm reading and playing.
All the exercises consist of combinations of the four different one-beat 1/8th
note rhythms from the previous page. Play through each exercise until you are
comfortable with it.
Tips
Read through each exercise and work out the sticking before playing it
Concentrate on grip technique
Note Values
Notes which share a stem must be of the same value. Notes of different values
cannot share a stem, because the anatomy of each note would become
ambiguous (for example, if a 1/4 note and a 1/8th note shared a stem, the
ownership of the flag would become unclear).
Beaming
Because the notes that share a stem are of the same value, beaming works in the
same way.
Two-way Coordination
Two-way coordination is the act of coordinating two of your limbs while
playing. Below are sixteen exercises for practising this. Exercises 1-8 are for
practising coordinating between the snare drum and the hi-hat, and exercises 9-
16 are for practising coordinating between the bass drum and the hi-hat. Play
each exercise until you are comfortable with it.
Tips
Concentrate on hi-hat technique
Ensure the unisons between the notes are together
Say the count out loud while playing
Concentrate on grip technique
Pay attention to body and shoulder position
Snare Drum Patterns With Constant 1/4 Notes on Hi-Hat and Bass Drum
Audio Example 4c:
Bass Drum Patterns With Constant 1/4 Notes on Hi-Hat and Snare
Audio Example 4d:
Hi-Hat Patterns With Constant 1/4 Notes on Snare and Bass Drum
Audio Example 4e:
Three-way Coordination 1/8th Note Hi-Hat
Pattern Exercises
Now that you have begun to gain control over your limbs, it’s time to start
playing in a more natural way. 1/8th note hi-hats are very common in drum
playing and are the basis of many grooves. Below are sixteen exercises for
practising three-way coordination with 1/8th note hi-hats. The hi-hats are
playing constant 1/8th notes and the snare drum and bass drum are playing
rhythms based around 1/4 and 1/8th notes. Play each exercise until you are
comfortable with it.
Tips
Here are nine exercises for practising playing repeat signs. The exercises are
divided into four sections: single bar repetition, multiple bar repetition, multiple
repetition and combinations of repeat signs.
It’s easy to miss the repeat signs when reading a piece of music, so it’s important
to work out where they are and to understand what they indicate before playing.
Play through each exercise until you are comfortable with it.
Tips
Read each exercise before playing
Work out where the repeat signs are before playing
Work out what the repeat signs indicate before playing
Multiple Repetition
Audio Example 5c:
Combinations of Repeat Signs
Audio Example 5d:
Drum Grooves
Drum grooves are a repeated phrase that secures the rhythm, tempo and time.
Because of the drum kit’s rhythmic properties, it is perfect for this role. A drum
groove achieves this by playing on the rhythmic subdivision of the music and
accentuating the time signature and rhythmical accents.
Grooves are the backbone of drumming. Without grooves, the line between noise
and orchestrated sound becomes ambiguous. Drum grooves secure musicians
and lead them musically. Grooves can be simple and unchanging, or
continuously developing and never repeating. A groove is a drummer’s most
used tool. One of the key parts of a drum groove is the backbeat
The Backbeat
The term backbeat refers to the accented notes that are typically on the 2nd and
4th beat in a bar. The backbeat can vary, depending on the time signature.
However, it is almost universally on the 2nd and 4th beat. These accents are
typically played on the snare, but can be played on any part of the kit.
The backbeat and the drum kit go hand in hand, as they both came into being
around the same time. In the early 1900s the drum kit had started to develop, and
by the late 1930s it had become the modern drum kit. At the same time the
musical genres of jazz, country and gospel were evolving. Very quickly, these
genres started to adopt the drum kit. The drummers who were playing at that
time began to mimic the strong rhythmic accents of these genres, emphasising
the 2nd and 4th beat (originally hand claps or other percussive instruments).
As new styles arose and the drum kit gained popularity, the concept of playing
on the 2nd and 4th beat became very widespread. It continued in the 1950s with
the birth of Rock ‘n’ Roll. The drum kit was an integral part of this genre, as was
the backbeat. From this moment on, the backbeat truly became ingrained into
popular music and has only increased in popularity.
Backbeat With 1/8th Note Bass Drum Grooves
When approaching groove playing, the best place to begin is to learn how to play
1/8th note bass drum patterns while playing a hi-hat pattern with a backbeat on
the snare. To construct and play 1/8th note-based bass drum patterns, you need to
understand the sixteen different 1/8th note bass drum rhythms that fit inside two
beats.
Below you will see these sixteen patterns. These exercises are written in a 2/4
time signature. A 2/4 bar has two beats in a bar and each beat has the duration of
a 1/4 note. Simply put, a 2/4 bar is half the length of a 4/4 bar. With these sixteen
bars of 2/4 you can create 256 different combinations in a bar of 4/4. These
exercises have 1/8th note-based bass drum patterns, constant 1/8th note hi-hats
and a backbeat on the snare. Play each exercise until you are comfortable with it
.
Tips
A 1/16th note has the duration of 1/4 of a beat. In a bar of 4/4 there can be
sixteen 1/16th notes.
1/16th notes and 1/16th note rests look similar to 1/8th notes and 1/8th note
rests. The difference is that a 1/16th note has two flags and its rest has two arms,
whereas an 1/8th note has one flag and its rest has one arm. Below is a diagram
showing how 1/16th notes correspond with whole notes, 1/2 notes, 1/4 notes and
1/8th notes.
Read through each exercise and work out the rhythm and sticking
before playing it
Keep the bass drum consistent
Count out loud while playing
A fill can be used as a cue to lead the other musicians and listeners into the next
section of a song. It can be used to accentuate rhythmic patterns within a piece of
music. It can be used at the beginning of a song to set the tempo and rhythm for
that piece of music. It can also just be used for the drummer’s own musical
expression.
There are no set rules for fills. They can be any length and for any purpose. They
can have a very complicated rhythmic pattern, or they can be very simple. A fill
can also follow the rhythm of another instrument or it can have its own rhythm.
Fills are typically played on the snare drum and the toms. However, they can
also be played on any voice on the drum kit, whether it’s a solo voice or a
combination of voices.
Drum Fill Notation
Drum fills are very rarely notated in full, or in part, outside of an educational
environment, because they can be very complicated to notate, or because the
composer may not know that much about drums. Usually in a chart (a piece of
written music) the composer will not write a specific fill, but simply note fill ,
with a marker to indicate length.
If a specific rhythmic pattern is needed, the composer will write the basic
rhythmic pattern with fill written above it, to show that the drummer can
embellish the rhythmic
pattern.
Playing on Toms
Playing on the toms is an integral part of fill playing, as the majority of fills are
played on the toms. Below you will see the technique, body position and
notation needed for playing on each tom.
Top Tom
Keep your body straight and do not lean forward. Leaning too far forward will
put excess strain on your shoulders and lower back. Hit the centre of the skin.
Keep the correct grip technique and hand position and keep your elbows in.
Floor Tom
Keep your body straight and do not twist too much or lean towards the floor tom.
If you twist too much you will put extra tension on your lower back and can
cause damage to your body. Hit the centre of skin. Keep the correct grip
technique and hand position. Keep your elbows in.
Tips
Eight-bar phrasing
Sixteen-bar phrasing
Thirty-two-bar phrasing
The lengths of these variants are different, but the concept of the embellishment
occurring in the final bar is the same. The following section will look at four-bar
phrasing and its possibilities.
Four-bar Phrasing
Below are eight exercises for practising four-bar phrasing. Each exercise has
three bars of groove and one bar of fill. The fills range from four-beat to single-
beat fills. There is also simile notation in each exercise. Play each exercise until
you are comfortable with it.
Tips
Work out the voicing and rhythms before playing
Say the count out loud while playing
Concentrate on body position and arm placement
Use the stickings you have learnt previously
Stave
The stave (or staff) is five lines on which all notation is written. The position of
notes and symbols on the stave dictates what is to be played.
These are the different types of bar lines. Read though them all and learn their
meanings.
Single Bar Line s
These are used to separate bars and help keep track of arrangement, rhythm and
time.
Below are sixteen exercises that will help you get used to playing the crash in
conjunction with the hi-hat, snare and bass. Play each exercise in all three
positions until you feel comfortable.
Tips
Crashes are rarely played on every bar. They are normally played only for
accents or in the transition between segments in a piece of music. Below are
exercises for practising playing the crash in a two-bar context and a four-bar
context, both of which are more natural ways of playing.
Two-bar Exercises
Play each exercise from above in a two-bar format, with a crash only on the first
bar.
Four-bar Exercises
Play each exercise from above in a four-bar format, with a crash only on the first
bar.
Ride Playing With The Crash
So far you have played the crash in conjunction with the hi-hat only. Now it’s
time to start playing the crash in conjunction with the ride. This requires more
dexterity because playing on the ride typically entails four-way coordination. So,
when you combine four-way coordination with moving the right hand from the
ride to the crash, it requires an extra level of adroitness.
Below are exercises for playing the crash in four-way coordination grooves. Play
each exercise until you are comfortable with it and use crash position 1.
Tips
Concentrate on crash technique
Ensure the tempo is not affected by playing the crash
Ensure the unisons between the notes are together
Two-bar Exercises
Play each exercise from above in a two-bar format, with a crash only on the first
bar.
Four-bar Exercises
Play each exercise from above in a four-bar format, with a crash only on the first
bar.
Four-way Coordination With Crash and Fills
One of the most natural and effective ways of playing a crash is after a fill. This
is because a crash hit gives a definite end to the fill and a strong start to the
groove that follows. Below are two-bar exercises for practising four-way
coordination grooves with fills, and with a crash on the first beat of the groove.
Play each exercise until you are comfortable with it.
Tips
Read the grooves and the fills before playing them
Ensure the hi-hat on the foot stays constant
Pay attention to the crash notation
Keep your speed constant; do not speed up or slow down
This concept does not stop with these exercises. You can continue your
exploration of this idea by creating your own transition exercises, using any hi-
hat groove, with any four-way coordination ride groove, and with any fill. Don’t
let the end of this book be the end of your practising. The lessons continue in the
next volume, Drum Kit Fundamental Studies – Book 2.
Keep practising and become the drummer you want to be!
About the Autho r
Daryl Ingleton began his musical life at a young age, starting with the trumpet at
age 8. He studied this instrument for many years, until he wanted to expand his
musical knowledge. He then switched instruments for many years until he found
drums and percussion at the age of 15. Since then he has studied with published
authors, internationally touring musicians and industry greats. In 2006 he was
accepted into the London College of Music where he studied with some of the
UK’s best session players and tutors. He later graduated with a Bachelors of
Music with Honours degree.
From then on, he became involved with shows, bands and projects throughout
London, in various different styles and situations. During this time, he also
continued his independent training, always striving to learn more, which led him
to travel to different continents to further his studies and pursue different
avenues of the music industry.
Throughout his music life Daryl has always been eager to share his musical
knowledge. Because of this he has developed an understanding of how to
communicate this knowledge in a way that is easily understandable. Daryl wants
every drummer to have the best understanding of their instrument possible, and
these books are his effort to share the techniques and knowledge he has hone d
over a decade of learning and practising.
Please enjoy and take all the knowledge you can from this book series.
Thank You!
This book series has been a passion project of mine for many years. From the
initial concept, to the first draft, and then to the completed article, it has taken a
lot of my concentration and dedication.
Throughout my musical life, and through the creation of this series, I have
received a lot of support from many people. I would like the thank my family
(Peter Ingleton, Diana Ingleton, John Sellars, Joyce Sellars, Katrina Harling and
Lauretta Hunt) who encouraged my musical education by helping find tutors and
schools, and for allowing me to play for hours on end without complaint. Thanks
to my first drum tutor (Dave Zubraski), who got me hooked on drums and
percussion.
To all of my tutors who showed me new ideas and concepts (Erik Stams, Darryn
Farrugia, drumTech and the London College of Music). To all my musical
friends and peers (the Babilondon Crew, the Radstock Crew, the Just Like Little
People Crew), who shared and grew their music with me. To everyone who
helped with the creation of this series (Luke Hollingworth and Fundamental
Changes Ltd). And to my partner (Lucie Fournaison) who always encouraged
my playing and writing.
Finally, I would like to thank you, the reader, for purchasing this book and series.
The information here is meant for you, and I am personally very happy that you
have taken the step to further your musical education.