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OVERVIEW: Eliminate Flies from Manure

Article · December 2013

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1 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

OVERVIEW:
Eliminate Flies from Manure
Background
Organic fertilizer is defined as partly or wholly derived from plants or animals that have
been through the process engineering can be solid or liquid that is used to supply organic matter
to improve the physical, chemical, and biological of soil (Regulation of Agriculture Minister
2/2006). Nowadays, organic fertilizer technology gained attention for being developed. This
development could not be separated from the effects of chemical fertilizer that poses variety
problems, ranging from destruction of ecosystem, loss of soil fertility, health problems, to the
problem of dependence of farmers on chemical fertilizer. Therefore, the use of organic fertilizer is
encouraged to overcome these problems [1].
One of valuable organic fertilizer derived from livestock waste. Livestock waste recycling,
as an organic fertilizer which is then called manure, plays a role in preventing environmental
pollution, and simultaneously increases crop production [2].
Fertilizers add the three basic building blocks of plant growth to the soil: nitrogen, to
develop plant proteins, potassium for flowering and cell development and phosphorus for good
root growth. These three nutrients are basic to healthy growth, but other minerals are required in
varying amounts by plants, depending on variety and soil composition. Manure is rich in nitrogen,
the major element of the "big three" needed for plant growth. Manure may come from farm
animals, poultry or even bats. Manures also contain smaller amounts of potassium and
phosphorus and traces of calcium, manganese and sulfur [3]. Therefore, the use of manure is
identified with the success of fertilization and sustainable agriculture program. This is not only
because it is able to supply organic matter but also because it is associated with feed crops, which
generally increases the protection and conservation of soil [2]: improve soil’s structure, texture,
aeration, fertility and water-holding capacity [4].
Unfortunately, one hazardous downside of using manure is fly breeding, which can cause a
nuisance to neighbors (Department of Health Act 1996) [4]. They cause the greatest potential of
becoming a nuisance and a health concern [5]. Therefore planned steps to minimize fly
populations are needed.

Objective
Giving overview of flies outbreak causations and potential actions to eliminate flies from
manure as organic fertilizer.

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2 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

Overview
Flies that breed in fresh manure, spilled feed, silage, moist animal bedding, human waste
and any fresh moist organic matter that is of the right moisture content (50-85%) and stage of
decomposition are as a group called filth flies [5]. Multiple fly species, including soldier flies, horse
flies, house flies (Musca domestica), little house flies (Fannia spp.), stable flies (Stomoxys
calcitrans) [6], and fruit flies, may inhabit manure at any time in the form of eggs, larvae
(maggots) and adults [7].
Flies are serious pest. In large numbers, flies can be an important nuisance by disturbing
people during work and at leisure. Flies soil the inside and outside of houses with their feces. They
can also have a negative psychological impact because their presence is considered a sign of
unhygienic conditions [8]. Moreover, of the five most serious diseases in the world, flies spread
the organisms that are responsible for four: malaria, sleeping sickness, leishmaniasis and filarasis.
They also are responsible for spreading anthrax, yellow fever, typhoid, parathpoid, bacillary
dysentery, pinworms, roundworms, whipworms, hookworms and tapeworms and various
diarrheal illnesses. The activity of flies is a nuisance and the accumulation of dead adults is a
respiratory hazard for many people [9]. In general, they interfere with public health importance.
Fly control is not a simple matter and takes a dedicated effort to be successful. Each place
may have different problems. Fly control measure that work on one place may not work on
another. In the final analysis the success or failure of a fly control program depends on the
efforts. Half-hearted efforts are sure to be a failure. The key to fly control is management.
Management must see that waste, in this case the manure, is handled in a way to minimize fly
breeding. Fly populations should be managed for prevention and residual [10].

PREVENTION (Physical)
Heaps of accumulated animal feces are among the most important breeding sites for flies.
The suitability of dung for breeding depends on its moisture (not too wet), texture (not too solid)
and freshness (normally within a week after deposition) [8]. It is always easier and more effective
to prevent fly breeding than it is to control adult flies. Eliminating the habitat required by the
larvae to hatch and grow significantly reduces fly populations [11].
Improving Sanitation and Hygiene
Sanitation is the primary control method used to reduce fly populations. Good sanitation is
the basic step in all fly management. Sanitation is the safest and best solution once you have
located the breeding source for the flies. The best control is to prevent flies from breeding [9].
This approach provides longer-lasting results and more cost-effective [8].
In order to help limit fly problems it is imperative to improve environmental sanitation and
hygiene which will then eliminate the conditions which are favorable to fly breeding [12]. Solid
concrete floors with drains should be constructed; dung should be cleaned out [8], buried or
properly composted or placed in sealed containers to reduce fly breeding sites [9] and floors
should be flushed daily [8]. Removing manure frequently also reduces fly parasite breeding areas
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3 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

[12]. Manure should be collected from stalls, paddocks, and pens every 1-3 days. Worm eggs hatch
every 3 days; so by collecting manure within that time period you should be able to eliminate
parasite reinfestations. Manure deposited in healthy, productive pastures (dense stands of grass
at least 3 in. tall) does not need to be collected. Dragging pastures periodically also will help break
up clumps of manure and evenly distribute the nutrients [13]. Sanitation should be completed if
fly breeding is to be minimized. Areas commonly missed in clean-up include around fence posts,
outside and under fences, feeders or hay racks, corners in barns and stalls, around silos or other
feed storage areas, and areas around water sources.
Covering the Manure Stockpiles
Fresh infested layer manure that is going to be used as a field application must be piled and
tarped for a minimum of 5 days immediately after it is removed from the barn [5]. Cover manure
stockpiles with a plastic sheet or tarpaulin to prevent the flies from entering manure stockpiles.
Choose a sturdy plastic sheet that is large enough to cover the entire manure stockpiles
completely. Spread the plastic sheet over the manure stockpiles allowing the edges to lie on the
ground next to the manure stockpiles. Place closely spaced cinder blocks or bricks on the edges
of the plastic cover to discourage flies from getting into the manure stockpiles [7]. Plastic have
been found to be useful for controlling flies in manure stockpiles. Plastic helps to control flies in
manure piles in three ways: 1) prevents the adult flies from using the pile as a breeding site; 2)
keeps the pile dry or prevents it from becoming saturated if it should rain; 3) solar radiation helps
heat up the pile to high enough temperatures that fly larvae and pupae are killed. One
disadvantage to using tarps is that scavenging birds and mammals sometimes tear holes in the
plastic to get at dead bird parts that may be in the manure. Once the tight seal is broken flies will
breed in the exposed areas [5].
Composting the Manure
An alternative method of post-removal manure management is to compost the heavily
nitrogenous manure with a carbon source (such as green waste, wood chips, feathers) in order to
reduce the production of nuisance flies. Composting is a process by which aerobic bacteria are
allowed to degrade and decompose the manure and carbon source material producing an end
product that would be a good mulch or soil amendment (Mellano and Meyer, 1996). In addition,
composting manure with a carbon source will bind the available nitrogen into a stable organic
form, making the end product suitable for direct application to crops [14].
In composting, avoid providing the flies with prime locations for laying their eggs. Sprinkle a
3- to 4-inch layer of carbon-rich organic waste (such as peanut hulls, wood shaving, sawdust or
shredded newspaper) on top of the high-nitrogen manure to decrease odors and prevent the flies
from being able to lay eggs on it [7]. Absorbent materials which are carbon-rich organic waste,
such as wood shaving and peanut hulls have shown to be superior for reducing fly breeding. The
almost universal use of straw for bedding is one major problem. Straw mixed with urine and
manure provides an excellent medium for growing flies [10].

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4 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

Controlling the Temperature of Manure

Fly densities are highest at mean temperatures of 20–25 °C; they decrease at temperatures
above and below this range and become undetectable at temperatures above 45 °C and below
10°C. At very low temperatures, the species can stay alive in a dormant state in the adult or pupal
stage [8]. Fly larvae can be killed with increased temperature. At 115° F, larvae begin leaving a
substrate. At 120° or higher, they are killed. Compost temperature easily reach 140° F or higher. It
will be unsuitable for fly habitat [10]. For proper composting, manure should be mixed with a
carbon source and placed into windrows with a height and base width of at least 3 feet to ensure
that adequate temperatures (> 130 ºF) are achieved. This high temperature will also prevent the
development of flies and will kill immature flies that are already present in the manure before
they can emerge as adult flies. The high temperatures are also expected to reduce or eliminate
pathogens (virus or bacteria) that may have been present in the manure prior to composting
(Atwill, 1997, Mullinax et al., 1998) [14]. Parasite eggs can be killed with 30-minutes exposure to
140°F that will occur on the inside of a properly composted pile. These temperatures are not
reached on the pile exterior which is one reason the pile is periodically mixed and turned so that
exterior material is incorporated into the middle for full composting. Stall waste composts well in
piles that are at least 3-feet square by 3-feet deep. Smaller piles will not retain enough heat to
reach the proper composting temperature [11].
Controlling the Moisture of Manure
Flies deposit eggs in the top few inches of moist manure which means that minimizing the
amount of moist manure surface area available to the fly is one fly reduction strategy [11]. Make
sure manure is not too wet, which can cause anaerobic decomposition [7]. If manure is allowed to
decompose anaerobic (without oxygen), it will usually produce offensive odors and attract more
flies. Aerobic (with oxygen) decomposition does not produce such odors because the microbes
decomposing the waste utilize the nutrients and produce odor-free compounds (water vapor and
carbon dioxide, for example) as a by-product [11]. Immature flies were not found in any treatment
with a surface moisture concentration < 40%. A more appropriate means of moisture
management might be to wet the pile using any mechanism immediately prior to turning the pile.
Turning the pile immediately following the addition of water would spread the moisture more
evenly throughout the pile and move much of the very hot material from the pile center to the
pile surface. As the surface material cools, it should allow for the evaporation of much of the
surface moisture resulting in a surface moisture content < 40% and a core moisture content > 40%
allowing for efficient decomposition. The rapid drop in moisture concentration as the pile surface
cools should reduce egg-laying by adult flies as the pile surface would be either too hot or too dry
for larval development [14]. A guide to adequate moisture is when a little free moisture can be
squeezed from a handful of material [4]. According to the University of Illinois Cooperative
Extension, if more than two drops of liquid can be wrung out, then there is a moisture problem.
Add carbon-rich waste, such as peanut hulls, wood shaving, sawdust or shredded newspaper to
pile or bin will decrease moisture and will aid in forming stockpiles and promote the

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5 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

decomposition process [5]. Shift the fresh waste into the center of the manure to soak up the
extra moisture and discourage smelly, fly-attracting, anaerobic decomposition [7].
Regular Turning the Manure
Regular turning of the compost heaps will reduce or prevent fly breeding, since flies breed
in decomposing organic material near the soil surface. All types of rotting/decomposing organic
matter are a source of fly breeding. Composting, or attentively covering it up with at least 10 cm
of soil, will prevent fly breeding [4]. Aerate your compost to increase microbial activity from
oxygen-loving bacteria. Scoop the waste from the center of the pile or bin, shifting it to the
outside edges with a manure fork. Gather waste from the edges of the heap and move it to the
center of your pile. Repeat this aeration process at least once weekly to ensure adequate
microbial activity [7] but the more frequent turning during the first two weeks was intended to
ensure greater control of flies that might be developing in the piles during these first weeks. Flies
can develop under optimal conditions in approximately 7 days, and it was expected that with the
high temperature and moisture concentration of the compost piles during the first weeks, flies
might complete development in the composting material if piles were only turned once per week
[14].

Preventing a fly population buildup is easier and will cost less than trying to control fly
populations once they become established [5].

RESIDUAL

Physical
Physical control methods are easy to use and avoid the problem of insecticide resistance,
but they are not very effective when fly densities are high. They are particularly suitable for small-
scale use in hospitals, offices, hotels, supermarkets and other shops selling meat, vegetables and
fruits [8].
Electrocution UV Light Traps
Flies are cold-blooded insects that move about looking for external heat sources; most flies
are diurnal and are attracted to certain wavelengths of light. Ultraviolet light will attract flies up
to 3,000 sq. ft. - they last 6 - 8 months [9]. House flies that were 5d and younger showed
significantly greater attraction toward UV light traps than older flies. A probit analysis estimated
that catch time for 50% of house flies (CT50) toward UV traps ranged from 99 to 114 min for males
and females respectively. Estimated CT50 for total house fly response toward UV light trap was
approximately 1.72 h (103.2 min). The CT90 and CT95 estimates for total house fly catch were 6.01
h (360.6 min) and 8.57 h (514.2 min) for males and females respectively [15].
UV light traps can be used to eliminate flies inside food handling facilities, restaurants and
grocery stores [6]. These traps attract flies with UV light and kill or capture the flies that land on a
charged grid, killing them on contact [9].

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6 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

Disadvantage:
Electrocution UV light traps can kill flies but are effective only in areas where exclusion and
sanitation efforts have already reduced the fly populations to low numbers [16]. Electrocutor
traps can effectively reduce adult fly populations in enclosed areas. However, do not use these
types of traps outside because they are not selective and may destroy many non-target and
beneficial insects. Electrocutor traps work well indoors and do not emit objectionable odors [9].
Sticky paper traps
Sticky paper traps also work well indoors and do not emit objectionable odors, attract flies
because of their sugar content [8]. There are many different sizes and colors of sticky paper on
sheets or rolls or ribbons that can be placed near problem areas [9]. Flies landing on the tapes are
trapped in glue [8].
Disadvantage:
Sticky tapes work best if they are chartreuse or white in color with flies imprinted on them.
The tapes last for several weeks if not fully covered by dust or trapped flies [8].
Fly traps
Large numbers of flies can be caught with fly traps. An attractive breeding and feeding
place is provided in a darkened container. When they try to leave, the flies are caught in a sunlit
gauze trap covering the opening of the container. One model consists of a plastic container or tin
for the bait, a wooden or plastic cover with a small opening, and a gauze cage resting on the
cover. A space of 0.5 cm between the cage and the cover allows flies to crawl to the opening. The
container should be half-filled with bait, which should be loose in texture and moist. There should
be no water lying at the bottom. Decomposing moist waste from kitchens is suitable, such as
green vegetables and cereals and overripe fruits. Chunks of decomposing meat or fish can be
added. Where evaporation is rapid the bait has to be moistened on alternate days. After seven
days the bait will contain a large number of maggots and needs to be destroyed and replaced.
Flies entering the cage soon die and gradually fill it until the apex is reached and the cage has to
be emptied. The trap should be placed in the open air in bright sunlight, away from shadows of
trees [8].
Disadvantage:
This method is suitable only for use out of doors [8]. They do an excellent job of quickly
reducing the number of adult flies but in order to achieve long-term control you must find and
eliminate or treat the source [6].
Bait Trapping
Bait trapping is highly recommended to accompany fly parasite releases for adult flies.
Using some non-poisonous materials or chemicals can be useful when they are made into sugar
baits and fed to the adult flies. It is both economical and safe to use bait traps to kill large
numbers of adult flies without interfering with biological controls. In order to lessen the fly
problems during the first few weeks of summer it is important to lower the adult fly density
before seasonal hot weather arrives and also during the period of time it takes for the beneficial

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7 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

to reproduce to larger numbers in the manure. In areas with humid weather and wet manure
accumulations both releases of parasites and bait stations are needed to give excellent fly
management. Inside each barn or shady area one bait trap should be set up when you start
releasing parasites. The number of traps should be increased along with parasite releases until the
adult flies are gone [12].
Disadvantage:
Baits must be placed out of reach of children and animals [8].

Biological
Biological Control means encouraging beneficial insects to flourish. Building large
populations of fly parasites, which are parasites of the fly pupae, and beneficial nematodes in the
manures, which feed on fly eggs and larva. Usually with proper manure management, beneficial
insects will become abundant [10].
First, use regular releases of fly parasites which will provide long-term fly control. Fly
parasites, the natural enemy, kill developing flies, break the life cycle of the fly, and attack fly
larvae and pupae. Fly parasite which are actually paracitic wasps are the most natural enemy of
flies during the pupa stage [9]. The eggs of the parasitic wasps are laid inside the flies pupae and
the developing flies provide food from within for the young wasps [12]. When fully grown they
will cut a hole in the pupal case and exit as adults searching for more fly larvae, seeking to lay
their eggs where the flies pupate. The parasites must not be left in direct sunlight or hot areas.
They need to be held at 70° to 80°F, increasing to 85°F for more rapid emergence. They should be
emerging and ready to release within a day or two. Parasitic wasps do not bite, sting, swarm or
bother anything else, humans or animals included. Parasitic wasps are nocturnal and are rarely
seen during the day. They operate to a depth of 8 inches in the manure, homing in with their
biological radar on fly larvae that are about to pupate. Top priority release sites are barns, stables,
and kennels, in and around coops, stalls, with special attention to hospital and calf pens on dairies
and horse stalls, on feedlots and wherever straw bedding is provided for animals. Place also
around corral posts, fence lines, paddock areas and other dropping sites, at the edges of manure
piles, pits or carts, and wherever manure accumulates. Having other fly-breeding areas near (but
never directly in) water sources, and near decomposing matter, garbage cans and septic tanks
[12]. For best results, start releasing before flies become a problem. The parasites do not attack
the adult flies, thus measures need to be undertaken to keep the existing population as low as
possible. Use of traps and baits is recommended. If a short-lived natural pesticide is necessary, try
to avoid the breeding sites where parasites are active. It will do more harm than good there [17].
Second, use beneficial nematodes once or twice a year to treat manure piles or any areas
where fly larvae populations may be abundant. Beneficial nematodes attach fly larvae and gives
extra control where large numbers of larvae are observed [17].
Parasites and predators control flies in animal manure accumulations and other filth fly
breeding sites. They are very effective against the housefly, biting stable flies, garbage flies, and
the lesser housefly which make up to 95% of the flies in manure and other site accumulations. Five
percent of the other flies are also parasitized, such as false stable flies, face flies, flesh flies and
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8 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

horn flies, but control is less complete on those flies which complete their life cycle widely
dispersed in the pasture [17].
The key to using and encouraging biological controls is proper cultural techniques and
restricted pesticide use. In confined areas like barns, there is the potential for the release of
parasitic wasps. However, success with this approach depends on manure age and moisture
content of manure. It also depends if the parasitic wasps are climatically adapted for your region.
A more practical approach is to encourage natural enemies to thrive and survive in and around
manure. This can be done by limiting or avoiding pesticide use, composting and leaving some old
manure in the barn at cleanout time. Composted and old manure is good for fly control because it
has undergone enough decomposition to be less suitable for fly breeding and has had time to
become balanced ecosystems where many organisms coexist and interact. The result is that no
single species dominates and that outbreaks are rare. In a balanced ecosystem the house fly is at
a major disadvantage and cannot successfully compete or survive [5].
Along with the fly parasites you should employ a combination of measures to achieve the
greatest reduction of flies: cultural control (sanitation), manure management (disposal), and
water management (fly larvae need a moist environment to grow).

Chemical
Control with insecticides should be undertaken only for a short period when absolutely
necessary because flies develop resistance very rapidly. The application of effective insecticides
can temporarily lead to very quick control, which is essential during outbreaks of cholera,
dysentery or trachoma [8]. It is normally best to use a combination of pesticide applications such
as residual wall sprays, space or aerosol sprays, dichlorvos vaporizer, and larvicides during the fly
season. Because fly resistance is always a possibility, it is best to rotate different chemical family
insecticides, especially when one group begins to lose effectiveness. Consider alternating
synthetic pyrethroids such as permethrin or fenvalerate to organophosphates such as stirofos,
dimethoate, or fenthion to carbamates such as methomyl. Do not wait for heavy fly populations.
It is much easier and less expensive to prevent heavy fly buildup than to control heavy fly
populations after buildup. As fly populations begin to build up, take time to treat, and treat
regularly [10]. Spot treatments applied to areas of high fly activity are most efficient. For example,
flies that tend to rest in dark corners can be controlled by applications to these areas. For cluster
flies, treat upper stories of building exteriors immediately before the flies move indoors for
overwintering [16].
Space spraying
Space and area spraying with mist, fog or ultra-low-volume (ULV) spraying apparatus is
used to eliminate adult fly infestation in large areas. To avoid aggravation to people with
respiratory problems, residents should be warned before application. Bug bomb aerosols are
usually recommended only for indoor use; the user should spray directly at the offending fly to
conserve expensive aerosols [18].

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9 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

Larvicides
Larviciding with insecticides is not recommended unless judicious care is made in its
application. Indiscriminate larviciding kills valuable parasites and predators of flies. The treatment
of those breeding areas that contain only the nuisance species is made possible by the fact that
most nuisance flies have specific preferred breeding sites. Long-lasting residual insecticides are
unnecessary since the exact conditions that attract egg-laying last only for a short period and
make continued breeding in the same spot unlikely. These spot treatments will not appreciably
affect fly parasites because most usually attack the pupal stage. Predators are also not greatly
affected since they do not congregate in large numbers at fly breeding sites. Larviciding should be
used only when other measures are either not possible or are unsuccessful. Spot treatments with
insect growth regulators are preferable and more beneficial than those made with other types of
chemical larvicides.
Disadvantage:
This method has the potential to breed insecticide resistant flies. Also beneficial insects are
often killed along with the fly larva and may be very expensive. It should be used where flies
congregate [10].
There is also a possible danger of some toxic effects in humans and the method should not
be used in rooms where infants or old people are sleeping [8].

Others
“DO IT YOURSELF”

There are some very easy solutions to keeping flies away and you can do them all yourself.

Repellents
Here are some natural repellents and you can make them by yourself:
1. Planting basil or cloves can repel flies - try spraying these in diluted soap solutions.
2. Essential oils of anise, laurel, citronella, cloves, orange, lemon, camphor, pine, or garlic are
effective fly repellents. You can burn citronella oil candles to repel house flies. A 2% emulsion of
avocado or basil oil will also repel flies. Try an aroma-therapy machine to dispense some of
these fragrances and repel your fly problems, if you are not sensitive.
3. Repellent can also be made with:
a. 1 part liquid dish soap, 1 part vinegar and 3 parts water.
b. 1 tsp. soap, 1 tsp. hot sauce, 2 tsp. garlic juice and 5 tsp. vinegar; dab on with a cloth [9].

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10 Overview: Eliminate Flies from Manure

Baited Traps
There are some baited traps which also can be made by you:
1. Make your own fly paper with honey or diluted vinegar and a few drops of dish soap spread on
bright white or yellow paper.
2. Set out a saucer filled with bubble soap to attract and kill flies.
3. Mix chopped toad stools with sweet milk in a saucer to ferment overnight. The next day this
toxic mix will attract and kill large numbers of flies, but keep it out of the reach of children and
animals.
4. Use some cheap red wine, combine 1 cup vinegar, 2 cup water and 1 tsp. honey in a capped 2-
liter soda bottle. Shake well and then punch a couple of small holes (big enough for flies to get
through) in the bottle sides above the liquid level. Hang above five feet of the ground, using
string pushed through a hole you punch in the bottle’s cap. An alternative bait trap is beer in a
wide mouthed jar with a plastic bag attached to the top with a rubber band - cut off the corner
of the bag. Pour a small amount of beer into a wide-mouth jar. Cut the corner out of a plastic
bag and attach the bag to the jar with a rubber band. Flies will enter and be trapped. The only
maintenance requires is periodic dumping of dead flies. To make other bait, mix 1 pound sugar,
1 pound baking powder, 2 ounces baking yeast, 6 ounces blood or fish meal, ¼ cup honey and 2
L water or form the mixture into cubes in an ice cube tray and then let it dry. To use the bait,
mix 1 cube in 1 quart water [9].

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[10] Adams, Jesse. “Chapter 10b: Vector Filth Flies.” CAMM Poultry. February 2003. 22 December
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[11] Wheeler, Eileen and Jennifer Smith Zajaczkowski. “Horse Stable Manure Management.”
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[13] “Managing Horse and Livestock Manure on Farm in Clallam County.” Clallam Conservation
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[14] Gerry, Alec, Valerie Mellano, and Doug Kuney. “Outdoor Composting of Poultry Manure
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[15] Aubuchon, Matthew D. Biological and Physical Factors Affecting Catch of House Flies in
Ultraviolet Light Traps. Diss. U of Florida, 2006.
[16] Cranshaw, W.S. and F.B. Peairs. “Flies in the Home.” Colorado State University. 19 April 2013.
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[17] “Fly Parasites.” Buglogical Control Systems. 22 December 2013
<http://www.buglogical.com/flies/fly-parasites/>.
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