Basic Principles of Cosmetic Formulas

We have put together basic concepts of formulas and methods for making personal care
products and color cosmetics. The ingredients are indicated as functional categories only
and the percentages reflect ranges that are typically used.

Bath Oil

Must Use Ingredients Typical Use Level Example Ingredients

Plant Oils 75-95% Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Almond Oil
Emollients 3-10% Triglyceride, Mineral Oil
Antioxidants 1-3% Vitamin E Tocopherol

Optional Ingredients
Surfactants/Emulsifiers 1-3% Polyglyceryl Oleate
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0% Tea Tree Essential Oil

Method: Combine all ingredients in a glass beaker and stir to make a homogenous solution.
Add then preservatives and fragrances.

Face Cream
Must Use Ingredients Typical Use Level Example Ingredients
Distilled Water 55-75% Water Mixed with Botanical Extracts
Emulsifiers 2-6% CreamMaker Blend, Polysorbates
Emollients 10-35% Plant Oils, Natural Butters
Natural Waxes,
Stearyl Palmitate Proprietăți: Agentul de
îngroșare eficient, cu proprietăți emolient,
asigură o albire îmbunătățită a cremelor și
Thickeners(ingrosare) 0.1-2%
lotiunilor, îmbunătățește stabilitatea
emulsiei, îmbunătățește formarea filmului,
reduce simțurile grase ale sistemelor de
ulei,

Optional Ingredients
Anti-Aging Ingredients, Skin-Whitening
Active Ingredients 1-10%
Ingredients
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0% Benzylalcohol-DHA

Method: Water phase: Thickener is dispersed in cold or warm water at 75-80°C (depending
on type of thickener) under stirring until a homogeneous gel is formed. Combine then with
separately mixed oil phase that contains emulsifiers and emollients which have also been
melted and heated to the same temperature. Mix under intensive stirring until emulsion is
formed. Then mix gently while emulsion is being cooled. Sensitive components like active
ingredients, fragrances and preservatives are added after the mixture has been cooled (40-
30°C) to keep their properties intact.

Hair Shampoo
Must Use Ingredients Typical Use Level Example Ingredients
Distilled Water 60-80% Water Mixed with Botanical Extracts
Surfactants 15-30% Alkyl Sulfonate, Coco Betaine
Foam Stabilizers 1-4% EDTA
Thickeners 0.1-5% Xanthan Gum, Acrylate Copolymer

Optional Ingredients
Humectants 1-5% Glycerin, Plant Oils
Hair Protective Ingredients 1-5% Proteins, Provitamin B5
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0%

Method: Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) in water under intensive stirring until a

homogeneous gel is formed. Then add the surfactants and the other ingredients and mix
gently until the product becomes homogeneous. Oil-soluble ingredients (e.g plant oils)
should be added by pre-mixing them with a small amount of surfactants.

Hair Conditioner
Must Use Ingredients Typical Use Level Example Ingredients
Distilled Water 60-80% Water Mixed with Botanical Extracts
Surfactants 2-5% Sulfosuccinate, Coco Betaine
Conditioning Surfactants
5-10% Polyquaternium-10, Behentrimonium
(Quats)
Thickeners 0.1-5% Xanthan Gum, Acrylate Copolymer

Optional Ingredients
Pearlizers 1-3% Glycol Stearate IP
Hair Protective Ingredients 1-8% Proteins, Provitamin B5
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0%

Method: Combine water and thickeners in a glass beaker and mix thoroughly with a hand
mixer to make a gel-like solution. Add then the surfactants and the other ingredients. Mix
again gently until it becomes homogenous.

Shaving Cream
Must Use Ingredients Typical Use Level Example Ingredients
Distilled Water 50-70% Water Mixed with Botanical Extracts
Surfactants/Emulsifiers 5-20% Coco Glucose, Polysorbates
Humectants 2-10% EDTA
Thickeners 3-8% Stearic Acid
Neutralizing Agents Q.S. Triethanolamine

Optional Ingredients
Film Formers 1-2% Proteins
Emollients 2-5% Plant Oils, Lanolin Derivatives
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0%

Method: Dissolve neutralizing agents in water and heat the water to 80°C. Heat surfactants
and consistency agents to 80°C. Mix slowly with water phase. Keep under slow stirring
during saponification ( during 60 minutes). Remove from heat. Active and sensitive
ingredients should be added after the mixture have been cooled (40°C) in order to keep their
properties intact.

Sun Protection Cream

Must Use Ingredients Typical Use Level Example Ingredients
Distilled Water 50-70%
Emulsifiers 3-10% Polysorbates, CreamMaker Mix
Plant Oils, Hydrocarbons (e.g.
Emollients 3-10%
Isododecane)
Sunscreens 1-10% Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide
Sunscreen Solvents 5-10% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Thickeners 0.5-2% Stearyl Palmitate, Cetyl Alcohol

Optional Ingredients
Antioxidants 1-2% BHT, Edelweiss Extract
Humectants 2-5% Glycerin, Propylene Glycol
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0% Paraben-DU

Method: Sunscreens and UV filters have to be dispersed in suitable solvents (pre-

dispersions of mineral sunscreens are often available to facilitate the procedure). Then,
emollients, emulsifiers, oli-soluble components are combined and melted at 75-80°C.
Thickeners are essential to prevent settling of pigments, they are dispersed separately under
stirring in water phase until homogeneous gel is formed and heated to 80°C. The two
mixtures are combined progressively to form the emulsion. Mix under intensive stirring
until emulsion is formed. Then mix gently while emulsion is cooled. Sensitive components
like active ingredients, fragrances and preservatives should be added after the mixture has
been cooled (40-30°C) in order to keep their properties intact.

Foundation Makeup
Must Use Ingredients Typical Use Level Example Ingredients
Distilled Water 60-80%
Emulsifiers 1-6% Stearic Acid, Sorbitan Stearate
Emollients 8-20% Mineral Oil, Lanolin Alcohol
Thickeners 0.1-3% Xanthan Gum,
Pigments 2-10% Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides
Filling Powders 4-10% Talc, Magnesium Stearate

Optional Ingredients
Antioxidants 0.1-1.0% BHT
Humectants 4-7% Glycerin
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0%

Method: Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) into warm water under intensive stirring until a
homogeneous gel is formed. Add other water-soluble ingredients. Heat this phase to 80°C.
Pulverize pigments and powders and add them to the water phase under intensive stirring.
Emulsifiers, emollients & oli-soluble consistency factors, constituting the oil phase, are
mixed and heated to 80°C. This third phase is added to the mixture (water phase and
pigments) in order to form the emulsion. Sensitive components like active ingredients,
special additives and preservatives are added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) to
keep their properties intact.
Mineral Makeup
Must Use Ingredients Typical Use Level Example Ingredients
Pigment Dispersion Agent 2-5% Plant Oils, Mineral Oil
Pigment Blends or Iron Oxides &
Pigments 20-60%
Titanium Dioxide
Special Pigments 20-30% Micas
Bismuth Oxychloride, Talc, Mica
Filling Powders 5-20%
Powder

Optional Ingredients
Vitamins 0.1-1.0% Vitamin C L-ascorbic acid
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0%

Method: Pigments and filling powders are thoroughly mixed with some oil in a mortar to a
very fine, homogenous powder (pigment particles must be crushed to smaller particles to
avoid streaks). Then, vitamins, preservatives and other ingredients are added and mixed
again.

Lipstick
Must Use Typical Use
Example Ingredients
Ingredients Level
Consistency
20-55% Natural and Synthetic Waxes
Ingredients
Emollients 25-70% Castor Oil, Mineral Oil
Pigments 0.5-10% D&C Reds, Iron Oxides, Micas
Antioxidants 0.1-1% BHT, Vitamin E Tocopherol

Optional
Ingredients
Sunscreens 0.1-2.0% OM-Cinnamate
Flavors 0.1-1.0% Flavor Honey-Lemon
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0%

Method: Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C.
Pigments may often have to be premixed separately in liquid emollients
mixture. Premixed pigments dispersions should preferably be used,
otherwise pigment dispersion must be as homogeneous as possible. The
mixture can be added to the first hot phase or once the mix has cooled.
Then pour the warm mixture (temperature must be 10°C above its
melting point) into the appropriate molds. Molds should be placed into
the refrigerator.
Mascara

Must Use Typical Use

Example Ingredients
Ingredients Level
Distilled Water 10-40%
Emulsifiers 3-10% Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid
Consistency
7-20% Natural and Synthetic Waxes
Ingredients
Thickeners 1-2% HE-Cellulose
Mineral Oil, Hydrocarbons (e.g.
Emollients 15-45%
Isoeicosane)
Pigments 1-10% Carbon Black, Iron Oxides

Optional
Ingredients
Water-Proofing Dimethicone, Acrylate
0.1-2.0%
Agents Copolymer
Active Ingredients 0.1-2% Eye Lash Growth Enhancers
Fragrance 0.1-1.0%
Preservatives 0.1-1.0%

Method: Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C.
Pigments have to be added and dispersed in this oily mixture.
Hydrophilic thickeners like gums or synthetic polymers are dispersed in
hot water. Some of them require neutralization. This second phase is
heated and combined with the oily phase to form the emulsion.