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Technology of Denim
Production: Part – IV
(Weaving Techniques for Denim)

By:
Supriya Pal

www.fibre2fashion.com
Technology of Denim Production: Part – IV
(Weaving Techniques for Denim)

By: Supriya Pal
Traditional denim fabrics are woven by interlacement of indigo dyed warp and grey weft. The
sequence or order of interlacement of warp and weft may be varied in order to produce different
denim weave designs. Although the traditional denim is a 3/1 RHT warp faced fabrics, a variety
of denim fabric are made with different weave designs, such as 2/1 twill weave, broken twill,
zig-zag twill, reverse twill etc. Today, denim fabrics are also manufactured with fancy design in
order to meet the latest fashion. Denim fabrics normally made of weight range of 6.5 to 15.5 oz
per sq. yd.
The classical denim fabrics are made with open end rotor yarn in both warp and weft direction.
However, ring yarn, ply yarn, filament yarn, lycra core yarn, slub yarn are extensively used in
denim to achieve some special effect, luster, smoothness and comfort in denim products.
Typical Jacquard Denim Fabric
(Used in Ladies Fashion Jeans, Skirt; Bags; Wallet; Shoes)
The properties of denim finished fabric largely depends upon the fabric construction. The warp
and weft count influence several fabric properties such as weight, fabric tightness, cover, drape,
hand, tensile strength, tear strength, and other fabric properties. All these parameters influence
the durability and comfort of denim garments.
Dornier AS - Double width air-jet weaving machine for denim
Traditionally, denim fabrics are manufactured for a long time in rapier and projectile looms. But
with the development of air-jet weaving technology, most of the denim fabrics are manufactured
in air jet looms. The modern air jet looms are equipped with lot of computer controlled
attachments which ensures faultless denim at high production rate. The robust and reinforced
frame structure and perfect balancing of modern air-jet looms allows high production speed and
optimum denim quality with less vibration.

Denim Loom Shed
Tsudakoma’s ZAX9100 air jet loom.

Blue Cotton Twill Denim
The indigo dyed warp yarns are fed from the weaver’s beam and pass over one or two back
rollers (Fig. 1). Some machinery manufacturer given an oscillation movement to one of the
back roller which controls the yarn tension variations during weaving. The warp yarns are then
passes through drop wires, heald wires and reed. The number of dents per inch of the reed
normally in the range of 12 to 18 for denim fabrics. In standard 3/1 twill denim fabrics, normally
four warp yarns drawn per dent.
Fig. 1: Weaving Machine Elements
During weft insertion, the filling yarn is fed from large packages. The yarn unwound from the
package and is wound onto a pre-winder which allows the yarn to be stored and release under
consistent tension for each pick insertion.
The production of denim fabric in weaving depends upon the quality of sized beams. The cut
ends, missing ends, extra ends inside the weaver’s beam, size fluff etc. influence the
productivity of fabric in weaving. Weaver’s beam should not having any grooves, cross ends,
shicky ends, as these reduced the loom efficiency to a large extent. Overdrying of warp yarns in
sizing should be avoided in sizing.
Toyota JAT710 Air-Jet Loom
The major drawback of running denim on plain loom is the occurrence of width wide faults,
problems of a strong beat-up and start marks in the fabric. Generally denim fabrics are made by
using cam shedding. Weaving machines producing 3/1 and 2/2 denim fabrics normally four or
eight heald frames for the ground weave. For selvedge, sometimes two additional heald frames
are used. For 2/1 denim fabrics, normally three or six heald frames are used for the ground
weave and sometimes two additional heald frames are used for the selvage, if required.
Fig. 2: Filling Insertion in air-jet loom
Modification on Modern Air-Jet loom for Denim
Some special modifications in basic air-jet looms are taken by several machinery manufacturer
and some special devices are incorporated which ensures a faultless and high productivity in
denim weaving.
Reinforced & Robust Loom Structure
For denim weaving in air-jet looms, the loom structure is reinforced for heavy duty weaving. The
modern air jet weaving machine is built around two side frames of cast iron which absorb the
loom vibration. The side frames are connected by sturdy cross members.
The robust frame structure, low-build frame, perfect balancing of the mechanical parts, strong
box frame on both sides and beams eliminates the vibration of the loom, and enables the
machine to work continuously at high speed at high speed (Fig. 4). The lack of vibration reduce
wear and tear of parts. The advantage of vibration free machine is that, the machine can be
glued to the floor, no anchor bolts are required. The floor does not have to meet special
condition. All these ultimately leads to optimum fabric quality at high loom speed.
Fig. 3: Robust frame structure, Tsudakoma air-jet loom “ZAX-N”
The intermediate rocking supporters of Tsudakoma air jet looms ( Fig. 3) ensure smooth and
powerful beating even at ultra-high speed, ensuring highest quality of denim fabric.
Fig. 4: Robust frame structure of air-jet loom

Devices for a course count weft insertion
Most of the modern air-jet looms are equipped with many arrangements for coarse count yarn for weft,
which ensures stable and high speed weft insertion with less air consumption.
Pre-winder
The pre-winder wind the turns onto their drum and ensures fault-free delivery. Opto-electronic sensors
monitor the length of yarn on the drum. The pre-winder is controlled and synchronized with the machine
through microprocessor which enables the pre-winder to be quickly adjusted to the cloth width. Switching
from S to Z twisted yarn is easy.
The filling yarn is drawn from the yarn package and accumulated on pre-winder wire drum. Accumulated
filling yarn is released by an improved solenoid hook. It is then inserted into the reed tunnel by booster
and main nozzles. The pre-winder exerted little tension to the weft yarn and ensures fault free delivery of
yarn and high loom speed.
Free Drum Pooling System
Tsudakoma ZAX-N is equipped with FDP-A III Free Drum Pooling System ensuring the highest loom
speed and applicable for wider range of wefts (Fig. 5).
Fig. 5: FDP-A III Free Drum Pooling System, Tsudakoma air-jet loom “ZAX-N”
Toyota JAT710 is equipped with the Electric Drum Pooling with speed control system in which the
rotational ratio of each electric drum can be independently set in coordination with the changes in rotation
(Fig. 6). This prevents the weft yarn breaks and stable weft insertion can be achieved even when
weaving is carrier out with complex patterns. This device reduced the tangling defects during unwinding
of fluffy weft yarn.
Fig. 6: Toyota’s Electric Drum Pooling with Weft Separation
Balloon breaker
The air jet loom for denim weaving is equipped with balloon breaker which reduces the weft tension due
to ballooning (Fig. 7). This also reduces the energy required for weft insertion for coarse count yarn and
ensures faster flight of the weft yarn, less air consumption and higher speed. A balloon breaker makes
the weft yarn balloon small which reduces the release tension and filling insertion resistance.
Fig. 7: Balloon Breaker
Main Nozzle
The movable main nozzle is mounted in a fixed position on the reed holder and move along with it.
Auxiliary main nozzle

For coarse filling yarn insertion, an auxiliary main nozzle/ booster/ tandem nozzle is located between the
pre-winder and the main nozzle. The auxiliary main nozzle pulls the filling yarn from the pre-winder drum
and delivers it to the main nozzle. It helps to insert the coarse weft with less pressure (Fig. 8). The filling
release resistance is overcome by the booster nozzle, increasing the filling insertion force of the main
nozzle. The main nozzle pressure can be reduced for weak yarn which prevents the yarn breakages. The
filling inserting force is increased by using the booster nozzle and ensures stable filling insertion which
cannot be achieved by using only main nozzle.
The auxiliary main nozzle and the main nozzle is combined which accelerated the filling insertion at low
pressure and reduced loom stoppages due to yarn damage. This also helps the denim production at high
speed or extra-wide weaving.
Fig. 8: Auxiliary Main Nozzle
Toyota JAT710 is equipped with a conical tandem nozzle which enables low pressure weft insertion at
high speeds (Fig. 9).
Fig. 9: Toyota’s Conical Tandem Nozzles
Stretch nozzle
The filling yarn is stretched before beat-up by a stretch nozzle (Fig. 10 &11). The stretch nozzle is fitted at
the end of the reed. The stretch nozzle captures, tensions the filling yarn and keeps the filling fully
extended until the inserted weft yarn is caught by the closing shed, thus effectively prevents filling
looseness and formation of any loops inside the fabric and reduce the air consumption by relay nozzles.
The stretch nozzle holds the filling by air to eliminate any slack pick.
Fig. 10: Tsudakoma Stretch Nozzle

Fig. 11: Sultex Stretch nozzle
Filling Detector
The air jet looms are incorporated with double filling stop motion devices which monitors the arrival of the
filling at the receiving side and also stop the machines at the time of filling breakages. Double weft
detectors detect the mis-pick in the shed and filling blows off. The first weft detector detects the filling,
whether it has reached the right side end. When the filling yarn does not reach the right end for any
reason, the first detector immediately stop the machine.
The Second detector detects whether the filling yarn is broken in the shed or blown apart due to yarn
breakages or in case of long pick. The filling detector can be positioned inside or in front of the reed.
Dornier Triple Weft Sensor
Dornier developed modular Triple Weft Sensor concept (Fig. 11A & 11B). It consists of first and second
filling stop motion. As usual the first filling detector monitors thread arrival, the second one monitors
thread breaks. A newly developed filling stop sensor DORNIER STS (Slim Through light Sensor) can be
easily positioned anywhere on the reed with a clip. It works on the through light principle. It ensures
highest functional and quality reliability for dark filling colors and finest threads.
Fig. 11A: Dornier’s Double weft sensors Fig. 11B: DORNIER STS (Slim Through
light Sensor)
Fig. 12: Relay Nozzles, Stretch nozzle
Relay Nozzles
The relay nozzles produced an air-jet which helps for filling yarn transport across the reed tunnel. The
relay nozzles are connected in groups of four. Compressed air is supplied to the relay nozzles via two
separate tanks which are independently controlled. This ensures less air consumption.
Fig. 13: Relay Nozzles
The opening and closing time of the valves are precisely controlled by the microprocessor. The
electromagnetic valves have excellent response. They produce sharp jetting and ensure stable filling
insertion.
Different machinery manufacturer designed the relay nozzles according to various needs. The design of
the relay nozzle plays an important role in the performance of weaving. Toyota developed tapered relay
nozzle. A tapered hole avoids air dispersion which enables stable weft insertion (Fig. 14).
Fig. 14: Toyota’s Tapered sub / Relay nozzle
Sultex L5500 is equipped with multi holes relay nozzles (standard), which have a higher concentration of
flow of air and very low turbulence (Fig. 15). This offers a better air flow direction and consumed less air.
Fig. 15: Sultex L5500 Multi-hole relay nozzle
In Toyota JAT710, the main nozzle pressure can be independently set for every weft insertion as per weft
insertion pattern (Fig. 16). The pressure of sub / relay nozzle can be switched between high and low
pressure for each pick. These features enable the JAT710 to weave fabrics that were previously only
possible with rapier looms.
Fig. 16: Toyota JAT710 Weft Insertion Device
Picanol developed new 16-hole relay nozzle in combination with the new relay nozzle valves with short
reaction times. This enables the OMNIplus 800 to consume less air.
The shape of the nozzles and the position of the holes in Picanol OMNI plus 800 relay nozzles are
optimized for more efficient weft insertions and reduced air consumption. The Diamond-Like Coating
(DLC) on the relay nozzles enables longer lifetime of relay nozzles. The electro-magnetic valves on the
relay nozzles have been modified and the airlines between valve and relay nozzle have been reduced
which reduced air consumption.
The unique Adaptive Relay Valve Drive (ARVD) system automatically adapts the relay nozzle settings
according to filling yarn properties throughout the insertion which minimized the air consumption.
Tsudakoma developed “Twin Nozzle Valve”, in which the compressed air to every two sub-nozzles. This
ensures sharp air jetting, allows high response to speed, and reduced air consumption (Fig 17).
Fig. 17: Tsudakoma’sTwin Nozzle valve
Weft Brake System
After inserting the filling yarn into the tunnel reed the feeder hook stopped the yarn. At the time of
stoppage of the inserted pick by the feeder hook, a high shock tension is generated by the filling’s inertia.
In order to compensate the filling’s inertia, a filling brake is used which gradually apply a braking
resistance to the filling near the end of the insertion cycle. This reduces the shock tension which
ultimately reduced the broken and slack filling.
Tsudakoma offers WBS weft brake system which sharply reduces peak tension at the end of filling
insertion. The WBS precisely controls brake timing and brake stroke as per the timing of yarn release
detected by the FDP sensor.
Fig. 18: Weft Brake System
Toyota’s automatic brake system (ABS) adds a retracting function to the conventional brake function. The
operator can entered the braking strength according to yarn type in the function panel. The timing of the
ABS movement is automatically synchronized to weft yarn travel which prevents the weft yarn breaks.
Picanol offers Programmable Filling Tensioner (PFT) which reduces the peak tension in the weft yarn at
the end of insertion.
Stop mark prevention
Most of the machinery manufacturer has incorporated some special devices and electronic control system
in modern air jet looms in order to prevent the stop marks in the fabric. Some of them are as below:
Automatic Leveling Device

An automatic shed leveling device, available in positive cam motion, automatically closes the shed after a
loom stoppage by leveling all the shafts. This prevents warp strain and creeping of warp sheet while it is
in open shed condition. This prevents the start mark in the fabric.
Blank start control

Some modern air- jet looms are incorporated with Blank Start Control system which enables the loom to
re-start with shedding and beating motions and without any pick insertions of the same number of picks
as those for reversing the loom. This eliminates the fabric distortion, cracks and thin places in the fabric.
Fig. 19: Toyota’s Total Stop-Mark Prevention System
Toyota JAT710 incorporated with powerful CPU controls various devices which effectively prevents the
stop-marks (Fig. 19). Some of them are as below:
Selectable Main Motor Start-Up Method
In JAT710, the super-fast start-up motor delivers high power torque at starting ensuring full beating power
from the first pick. The eliminating stop marks. The motor start up can be selected in either delta or star
configuration which ensures different start-up torques in order to avoid different type of bar defects.
Fell Forward
JAT710 is equipped with Fell Forward system in which the warp yarn let-off tension is released
immediately after the loom stoppage (Fig. 20). This avoids the cloth fell from touching the reed, which
prevents stop marks in the fabric. When the loom restarted, the preset tension is restored.
Fig. 20: Toyota JAT710 Fell Forward System
Selectable Machine Stop/Start Angle

The machine start/stop angle can be set arbitrarily according to the type of fabric. This helps to eliminate
any stop mark in the fabric.
Let-Off Adjustment
With this features the amount of let-off permitted for loom stoppages or machine downtime can be set
arbitrarily. This prevents the stop marks in the fabric.
One-pick insertion start

The JAT710 is equipped with one-pick insertion stat system, in which after repairing a defective pick, a
single pick is inserted without beat-up when the loom is started. This is particularly effective in
preventing stop marks when weaving heavy twill fabrics.
Dornier’s Automatic Start-mark Prevention ASP
Dornier developed Automatic Start-mark Prevention ASP which prevents the start-marks at the source
(Fig. 21). All the functions outlined, can be simply called up on the machine display and can be changed
as required.
Fig. 21: Dornier Automatic Start-mark Prevention ASP
Loom Automation
Modern air-jet is equipped with some electronic control systems which guarantee highest loom speed,
optimum wet insertion rate, and excellent fabric quality.
First-pick control
In normal case, the loom speed for the first pick is slower than the normal speed. This leads to many
problems such as long pick. The Tsudakoma ZAX-N is equipped with computer control filling insertion
timing. In this system the timing at the first pick can be set by computer which ensures trouble-free start-
up.
Tsudakoma’s APR-C (Automatic defective Pick Remover)
Tsudakoma offers Automatic defective Pick Remover APR-C which at the case of mis-insertion of the
filling, automatically reverses the loom, removes the defective pick, and restarts the loom (Fig 22).
Fig. 22: Tsudakoma’s APR-C (Automatic defective Pick Remover)

Tsudakoma PSC Programmable Speed Control
Tsudakoma developed PSC Programmable Speed Control system in which up to eight kinds of loom
RPM can be independently set. When multiple kinds of wefts including difficult yarn are used, the
programmable speed control automatically increases the loom RPM except for the section using the
difficult yarn. The RPM can be change within 1 pick.
Fig. 23: Loom RPM changes by Tsudakoma Programmable Speed Control system
Tsudakoma’s Weave Navigation System

Tsudakoma ZAX9100 is incorporated with Weave Navigation System which enhances automatic setting
functions for more detailed and easier operation. By entering a minimum number of items, the control for
weaving are set automatically.
Toyota’s Automatic Time Controllers, ATC

The ATC automatically adjusts air injection timing to adjust the variation in yarn arrival timing. It
synchronizes the movements of the solenoid pins, ABS and solenoid valves with the arrival of the weft
yarn.
Toyota’s Automatic Pick Controllers, APC

Based on the parameter entered through the function panel, such as fabric type and loom speed, the
APC automatically sets the timing of weft yarn arrival and pressure. It also automatically adjusts the
nozzle air jet pressure and compensates the variation in filling yarn travel timing.
Toyota Automatic Pick Operator (TAPO)

The TAPO automatically removes the mis-pick at the time of any mis-pick and restarts the loom. A
variable-speed motor adjusts the speed of mis-pick removal (Fig. 24).
Fig. 24: Toyota Automatic Pick Operator (TAPO)
Toyota’s New AFC

This device automatically synchronizes air injection of tandem nozzle with the arrival of the weft yarn,
changing the weft yarn releasing tension from the EDP drum. A stable weft insertion is achieved by AFC.
DORNIER’s PIC-system (Permanent Insertion Control)
DORNIER’s PIC system permanently monitors the filling insertion elements and sets new standards for
process reliability and consistence quality (Fig. 25). The permanent control of the relay nozzle jetting
sequence with a continuous standard value comparison (PIC) enables optimum fabric quality. Yarn-,
speed- and width-related parameters for the control of the nozzles pick and pick are given from a data
library.
Fig. 25: DORNIER’s PIC-system

Picanol Automatic full pickfinding
Picanol developed Automatic full pickfinding which is driven by the Sumo main motor. In case of a broken
pick the machine stops. The harness frames are brought in motion – automatically so that the broken pick
can be free, without the reed touching the beat-up line. This reduces the machine down time during loom
stoppage and prevents start marks in the fabric.
Picanol Pick Repair Automation and Prewinder Switch-Off
Picanol Pick Repair Automation (PRA) system reduces the machine stop time in case of a broken pick.
Picanol Prewinder Switch-Off (PSO) system switch off the pre-winder if a filling break occurs on the
bobbin creel or one of the pre-winders and the machine carries on weaving even. The pre-winder signals
the break and the system switches to one of the remaining channels.
Shed layout and reed beat-up
Air-jet loom can be equipped with several type of shedding mechanism, such as, negative cam shedding,
crank shedding, positive cam shedding up to 10 harnesses, high performance positive electronic dobbies
up to 16 harnesses and electronic jacquard shedding. Staubli positive cam up to eight harnesses gives a
vibration free better weaving quality in denim. Several air jet looms adopt the law of motion for the sley
with a long dwell time. This allows longer time for filling insertion cycle and ensures high weaving speed,
less air consumption, low filling tensions and reduced the warp breakages.
Fig. 26: Reed Dwell Time
In the negative cam shedding, the cam curves of the JAT710 have been optimized through computer
analysis. Toyota JAT710 may be equipped with simple crank shedding with no dwell angle. It may also
equipped with multi-link crank shedding (Fig. 28) with dwell angle suitable for weaving high-density
fabrics.
Fig. 27: Negative Cam Shedding, Toyota Fig. 28:Toyota’s Crank Shedding
JAT710
Positive Cam Shedding

Positive cam shedding is ideal for weaving denim fabric. The positive cam shedding enables high loom
speeds with clean shed and vibration free harness motion. Both symmetrical and asymmetrical shedding
motions are available for better fabric quality. Positive cam motion consumes less energy due to absence
of return springs. It requires less maintenance.
Positive cam shedding- ideal for denim
Fig. 29: Staubli Positive Cam
Staubli cam motions are ideally suited for weaving various weaves. The advantages include:
- Robust monobloc housing
- Integrated automatic shed leveling device
- Quick change of cams and bevel wheel pair
- Precise transmission of movement to the heald frames
- Oil bath lubrication or circulation type lubrication electronically monitored
Electronic Shedding System
Toyota offers electronic shedding, the E-Shed for max. 16 shedding frames (Fig 30), in which each heald
frame is controlled by separate servomotor. The E-shed main CPU controls independent servomotors
which drive individual shedding frames. The shedding pattern, cross timing, dwell angle can be set frame
from the function panel and changed for each individual. The electronic shedding makes easy to weave
various kinds of fabrics such as high density fabric traditionally woven in cam shedding, and even fabric
which is difficult to weave with conventional shedding motion.
Fig. 30: Toyota Electronic Shedding
Toyoda Electronic Shedding Motion increases the weft insertion performance and offers superior beating-
up for high-density fabrics.
Advantages of Electronic Shedding:

The electronic shedding offers:
- Free pattern setting through function panel,
- Variable dwell angle can be set for each heald frame,
- Variable cross-timing can be set for each shedding frame,
- No limit to difference in number of upper/lower frames,
- Pick finding with shedding motion only
Tsudakoma developed the ESS Electronic Shedding System in which the dwell angle and phase
difference can be programmed freely from the Navi-board (Fig. 31).
Fig. 31:Tsudakoma’s ESS Electronic Shedding System
Reed Drive from both sides
The reed drive from both sides with complementary cams in modern air-jet looms ensures forceful beat
up (Fig. 32). This facilitates the production of heavy and dense fabric. The both-sided reed drive ensures
that the pick is beaten-up precisely across the whole width of the shed. This eliminates the starting mark
in the fabric, minimizes the machine vibration.
Fig. 32: Both side reed drive
The stable, low in mass reed batten construction, the beat-up is even and exact which eliminates start
marks.
4 & 6 Link Beating Motion

The 4-link beating motion in Tsudakoma air-jet weaving machine allows ultra-high machine speed. A 6-
link beating motion is used for wider looms which gives more time for filling insertion and a stable filling
insertion can be achieved (Fig. 33).
Fig. 33:Tsudakoma 4 & 6 Link Beating Motion
Let-Off Motion
Let-off motion has a major role on the fabric quality. The precisely controlled let-off motion, solid back
rest, reinforced structure and double back roller allows optimum warp tension and optimum fabric quality.
Today most of the air jet looms are equipped with electronically controlled let-off motion which is powered
by digital AC servomotor. The load cell detects the total warp tension and gives feedback to digital AC
servomotor. The servomotor automatically maintains the warp tension at a constant and uniform level. A
constant warp tension is maintained throughout the warp beam.
Double Back Rollers

A double back roller system detects and maintains a correct warp tension regardless of the diameter of
the size beam.
Positive Easing
A positive easing motion absolutely eliminates the warp tension variation due to harness movement. A
oscillating movement of the back rest roller compensates the tension variation of the warp. This reduces
the warp breakages. The positive easing is synchronized with the shedding motion. The back rest roller is
driven by a crank motion in time with the shedding movement. Positive easing is ideal for a wide range of
fabric like plain and twill weave heavy or dense fabrics.
An auto-balancing (kick-back) system controls the warp stretch and cloth fell position at machine start up.
This stabilized the cloth fell position. The warp beam rotates forward and reverses by preset filling pick.
The kickback function controlled by ELO move the let-off beams backward and fell control places the
cloth fell in the optimum position.
Automatic fell control system is incorporated with some air jet loom. This automatically relaxes the warp
sheet and avoids tension difference between upper and lower sheet. This avoids the cloth fell from
moving due to tension difference. AT the time of loom start the cloth fell is automatically restored/
tightened to the original position to eliminate a corrugation mark in the fabric.
Tsudakoma Electronic Let-Off (ELO) for constant warp tension
Tsudakoma’s Electronic Let-Off (ELO) is reinforced in structure, capable to weave from large-diameter
beam. The positive easing driving shaft built in an oil bath ensures good performance even for high-
density fabrics at high speed. A large beam flange (up to 1,100mm) can be used .
Take-up Motion
Today most of the air jet looms are equipped with electronically controlled take up motion. The take-up
speed is based on pick density, which is controlled by microprocessor and AC servomotor. The electronic
take up device is synchronized with the machine inching motion. Pick density can easily be set in the
machine function panel. This eliminate the need of change of wheel swaps. The combination of electronic
let-off and electronic take-up ensures higher fabric quality.
Tsudakoma’s ETU Electronic Take-Up
Tsudakoma developed ETU Electronic Take-up, in which an AC servo motor is used for the take-up
motion (Fig. 34). The Electronic take-up motion is computer controlled, it rotates fully synchronously with
the loom to control pick densities. The required pick densities of the fabric can be entered from the Navi-
Board.
Fig. 34:Tsudakoma’s Electronic Let-off and Electronic Take-up
Dornier Let-off and take-up motions are identical in construction (Fig 35) which utilizes a resolver as the
measuring system, connected together with the sensor to a control circuit. The accuracy of setting the
warp tension is in the region of 1 gram and in the case of the take-up, up to 0.01 pick/cm.
Fig. 35: Dornier Let-off and take-up motions
Off-loom take-up motion

Off-loom take-up motion allows the cloth roll to be up to 1500mm adopting the indirect take up using a
torque control motor (Fig. 36). This ultimately saves labour and higher productivity.
Fig.36: Off-loom Take up
Dornier fabric support table
In Dornier air-jet weaving machine, the fabric is guided precisely up to beat-up with the help of fabric
support table (Fig. 37). This ensures optimum setting for the shed geometry without vertical shifting of the
cloth fell.
When weaving high density fabrics like denim, it is necessary that the shed geometry is set so that the
lower shed raised (asymmetrical weaving). With the fabric support table it is possible for asymmetrical
geometry of the bottom shed which give the desired fabric appearance. Burst fillings, warp end breaks,
filling stops and loose pattern are eliminated.
Fig. 37: Dornier fabric support table
Quick Style Change
Most of the modern air-jet looms are incorporated with Quick Style Change System which minimize the
machine down time during warp changes.
Picanol developed Quick Style Change (QSC) which enables a style to be change by a single person
within 30 minutes. During style changing, the entire rear part of the split frame, with the warp beam,
backrest and support, warp stop motion, harnesses and reed are swapped. All the settings are done
before the style change, outside the weave room.
The QSC system offers remarkable saving in machine downtime, , improving the workload, downtime on
the weaving machine is much shorter, fewer personnel are needed in the weaveroom, and there is far
greater flexibility for weaving different articles.
Selvedge
Selvedge is an important role for further processing of a fabric. Air-jet weaving machine can be equipped
with various types of selvedge formation devices. Several machinery manufacturer incorporates different
types of selvedge formation devices as per requirement of the end products.
Leno selvedge Tucked selvedge
Dornier developed double disc leno device- MotoEco double-disc leno, which forms an intensive binding
of the picks with exceptionally short tails (Fig. 38). Two full turn lenos, with reversible direction operate
side by side. One leno produce the fabric selvedge and the second leno replaces the catch selvedge.
Extra shafts are not necessary for the leno and catch selvedge spools are not required.
Fig. 38 : Dornier double disc leno MotoEco
Dornier also developed pneumatic tucking unit, “Pneumatic Tucker”, which produces a clean tucked
selvedge without the use of any mechanical moving parts. With the pneumatic tucking unit, the filling tail
is tucked by an electronically controlled jet of air. The filling tail length, the number of picks to be tucked at
a time and the electronically controlled selvedge cutter timing can ne set on the machine display.
Tsudakoma ZTN needle-less tuck-in device

Tsudakoma offers ZTN needle-less tuck-in device in its air-jet loom (Fig 39). In this device, the wefts yarn
are tucked in the edge by the force of air instead of conventional tuck-in needle movement. This
eliminated the possibility of reed damage by a tuck-in needle. The wear and tear of the mechanical parts
is avoided.
Fig. 39: Tsudakoma ZTN needle-less tuck-in device
Tsudakoma ZT tucker
Tsudakoma developed ZT tucker, which can operates even faster speed (Fig. 40). The air-grip type
prevents cotton flies. A high speed, stable performance can be achieved. The catch-cordless type is
simple in operation and maintenance free.
Fig. 40: Tsudakoma ZT tucker
Tsudakoma Independent 2/2 selvage
Tsudakoma offers independent 2/2 selvage in its air jet looms (Fig. 41). It is used for the formation of
tucked selvage or selvage for denim fabric. Thus, the load on the main shedding can be reduced. This
ensures higher machine speed and energy savings.
Fig. 41:Tsudakoma Independent 2/2 selvage
Tsudakoma’s Independent shedding motion for the catch cord

Tsudakoma developed independent shedding motion for the catch from the heald frames (Fig. 42). This
allows high machine speed and energy saving.
Fig. 42: Tsudakoma’s Independent shedding motion for the catch cord
Picanol developed Electronic Selvedge System and Electronic Rotary Leno for its weaving machine.
The Electronic Selvedge Systems (ELSY) are driven by separate electronically controlled stepper motors.
The patterns and selvedge crossing times can be programmed on the microprocessor. This can be
independent of the shed crossing.
The crossing time of the Electronic Rotary Leno (ERL) can similarly be programmed while the machine is
in operation. At a bobbin change the leno can be positioned and resynchronized easily.
Toyota’s Electronic Selvage Motion (ESM)

Toyota developed Electronic Selvedge Motion (ESM) in which the independent left and right servomotors
allow to set cross angles (Fig.43).
Fig. 43:Toyota’s Electronic Selvage Motion (ESM)
Main Drive
The main drive unit and the electromagnetic clutch and brake unit allows optimum pick-up and immediate
braking times ensures highest fabric quality. Programmed direct start and positioned stop mechanism are
achieved by means of electromagnetic brake. Speed changes can be set by the function panel. This
eliminates motor pulley and belt. Start, stop, forward-reverse slow motion are activated by push button
operation.
Picanol developed Sumo main motor, which drives the machine directly without belt transmission, clutch
and brakes. The speed of the Sumo motor is electronically set and controlled without a frequency
converter. Automatic pick finding, slow motion movements are done with the same motor. Sumo motor
reduces power consumption and permitting greater flexibility, generates less heat and reduces
maintenance cost as there are fewer component are subject to wear. The machine is up to full speed
right from the very first pick. The shed crossing time can be set from the display.
Typical Denim Weaves
The plain weave is the simplest form of weaves. The warp and weft are interlaced in a simple
over and under, alternating each thread. In plain weave the yarns are tightly interlaced. Light
cloths can be achieved with plain weave.

Fig 44: Basic 1/1 Weave

Traditionally denim is a warp face 3/1 twill, 2/1 twill fabric. Denim can also be made with some
different twill weaves, such as 3/1 broken twill, or 2/2 broken twill, herringbone twill and
combination of different twill. The twill may be left handed twill (LHT) or right handed twill (RHT).
If the twill line is rising to the right, and the fabric is known as a right- hand twill weave. If the twill
line is made to rise to the left, then the design is left-hand twill. Typical left handed and right
handed twill weaves are shown in Fig. 45 . Broken twills are made by breaking up the twill line
at different intervals.
3/1 RHT 3/1 LHT
Fig. 45: Diagram of 3/1 RHT and 3/1 LHT
Left hand twill denim is softer feeling than right hand twill. The softness of the left hand twill is
due to the twill direction is same with the twist direction of the fibers in the yarn.
Fig 46: Denim Twill Weave
Right hand twill denim is the opposite of Left Hand twill. This weave is much more common, as
almost all denims are made with right hand twill. The weft threads will be visible in upward-right
diagonal lines on right-hand twill jeans.
Twill Denim Fabric

A twill weave is a warp-faced fabric in which the weave gives steep twill lines which are
separated by pronounced grooves formed by the weft (Fig. 47). With the help of the twill weave,
several classes of fabrics can be made. They are generally characterized by a series of more or
less pronounced diagonal parallels ribs and furrows.
Fig. 47: Twill Denim Fabric
Denim is best known for its twill weave. It is identified by the prominent diagonal lines in the
fabric. Heavier fabrics are made this way. Twill fabric is made by passing the weft threads over
one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads and then over one warp thread and
under two or more warp threads , and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows which
produces the unique diagonal lines. Because of this structure, twills generally drape well.
Twill fabrics have a front and a back side. The front side of the twill is called technical face and
the back is called technical back. In the technical face side having the most pronounced wale.
The twill may be divided into three classes, such as,

- Continuous twills,
- Zigzag or wavy twills and
- Broken twill
Regular or continuous twills
In regular or continuous twill weave, the diagonal lines are produced by advancing the order of
interlacing in step of one in either direction. In four threads, the warp and weft interlacement
may be 3/1, 2/3 and 3/1, each can be made to incline in both direction. Hence total six different
twill design can be formed.
Fig. 48: Regular Twill Weave
Zig Zag or Wavy twills
In the Zigzag twill, the twill direction is frequently reversed. Thus a series of weaves is produced
running horizontally, obliquely or vertically. Wavy twills are normally produced on point drafts.
Any regular twill weave may be used in the development of wavy twill. Also the twill may be
reversed at regular or irregular intervals as per picks.
Fig. 49: Wavy Twill
Broken twills
The broken twill is made by breaking the continuity of any continuous twill weave at regular or
irregular intervals of threads. Hence instead of the twill running to the right or left, broken twill
jeans having no certain direction of weave.
Broken Twill Denim Jeans
Herringbone Twills
A twill weave with ribs in both sides is called herringbone twill. Unlike the wavy twills, the
herringbone twill not having any point where it changes the direction. The twill line is cut into the
other at the point of reversal.
Denim Herring bone Skirt
Some different types of denim weave/ design
Jacquard denim Filamentary silver slub denim
Colored c/t slub striped elastic denim Jacquard corduroy denim

Fancy Denim
Plain denim
Herringbone twill denim Warp-weft slub stretch denim
Sulfur black striped denim Blue-white striped denim
Stretch slub denim

100-percent Cotton Denim Check
Stripe Denim Fabric Imitated Denim Fabric with Glitter Printing
References:

1. http://www.picanol.be/PICBESITE/EN/PRESS/PRESSRELEASES/PICWEAVINGSYSTEMS/OMNIplus
+800+airjet+weaving+machine.htm
2. http://www.toyota‐industries.com/textile/whatsnew/bulletin_maintenance/pdf/vol11e.pdf
3. http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume3issue1/articles/Seyam/seyam_full_26_02.pdf
4. http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.txhtex.com/images/cp18a.jpg&imgrefurl=
http://www.txhtex.com/template/cpjsb‐en.htm&usg=__F‐HHzZGVt5EdQLXUZB8‐
ulLZVoc=&h=215&w=280&sz=36&hl=en&start=40&zoom=1&tbnid=aGIX7JEUV5a4DM:&tbnh=8
8&tbnw=114&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtwill%2Bdenim%2Bweaving%26start%3D20%26um%3D1
%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1
5. http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.stgeneve.com/quality_defines/images/we
aving_twill.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.stgeneve.com/quality_defines/covering/weave_types.ht
m&usg=__HuZ_0nqXUyvsqyvkHN‐
i9FDxA4U=&h=88&w=93&sz=5&hl=en&start=10&zoom=1&tbnid=bCQi8n4zgy2yyM:&tbnh=76&
tbnw=80&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddenim%2Bweaving%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26tbs%3Disch:
1&um=1&itbs=1
6. http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.fashion‐
era.com/images/Fabrics/weave22twill.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.fashion‐
era.com/Fashion_Fabrics/fabrics_jacquard_brocade_damask.htm&usg=__27zexe2ENG3zwEbAS
TJkCpjb8EY=&h=217&w=242&sz=13&hl=en&start=13&zoom=1&tbnid=bDSHQqiUgqTARM:&tbn
h=99&tbnw=110&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtwill%2Bdenim%2Bweaving%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den
%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1
7. Brochures of Toyota, Picanol, Dornier, Tsudakoma Air‐Jet weaving machine.
8. http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2010/01/twill‐variations‐1.html

Click here to read Part-III
The author is Manager (TQM) at Shri Lakshmi Cotsyn Limited, UPSIDC Industrial Area, Malwan, Dist.
Fatehpur, UP

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Typical Jacquard Denim Fabric

(Used in Ladies Fashion Jeans, Skirt; Bags; Wallet; Shoes)

Dornier AS - Double width air-jet weaving machine for denim

Tsudakoma’s ZAX9100 air jet loom.

Blue Cotton Twill Denim

Fig. 1: Weaving Machine Elements

Toyota JAT710 Air-Jet Loom

Fig. 2: Filling Insertion in air-jet loom

Modification on Modern Air-Jet loom for Denim

Reinforced & Robust Loom Structure

Fig. 3: Robust frame structure, Tsudakoma air-jet loom “ZAX-N”

Fig. 4: Robust frame structure of air-jet loom

Devices for a course count weft insertion

Free Drum Pooling System

Fig. 6: Toyota’s Electric Drum Pooling with Weft Separation

Fig. 7: Balloon Breaker

Auxiliary main nozzle

Fig. 8: Auxiliary Main Nozzle

Fig. 9: Toyota’s Conical Tandem Nozzles

Fig. 10: Tsudakoma Stretch Nozzle

Fig. 11: Sultex Stretch nozzle

Dornier Triple Weft Sensor

Fig. 12: Relay Nozzles, Stretch nozzle

Fig. 13: Relay Nozzles

Fig. 14: Toyota’s Tapered sub / Relay nozzle

Fig. 15: Sultex L5500 Multi-hole relay nozzle

Fig. 16: Toyota JAT710 Weft Insertion Device

Fig. 17: Tsudakoma’sTwin Nozzle valve

Weft Brake System

Fig. 18: Weft Brake System

Stop mark prevention

Automatic Leveling Device

Blank start control

Fig. 19: Toyota’s Total Stop-Mark Prevention System

Selectable Main Motor Start-Up Method

Fig. 20: Toyota JAT710 Fell Forward System

Selectable Machine Stop/Start Angle

One-pick insertion start

Dornier’s Automatic Start-mark Prevention ASP

Fig. 21: Dornier Automatic Start-mark Prevention ASP

Tsudakoma’s APR-C (Automatic defective Pick Remover)

Fig. 22: Tsudakoma’s APR-C (Automatic defective Pick Remover)

Tsudakoma PSC Programmable Speed Control

Tsudakoma’s Weave Navigation System

Toyota’s Automatic Time Controllers, ATC

Toyota’s Automatic Pick Controllers, APC

Toyota Automatic Pick Operator (TAPO)

Fig. 24: Toyota Automatic Pick Operator (TAPO)

Toyota’s New AFC

DORNIER’s PIC-system (Permanent Insertion Control)

Fig. 25: DORNIER’s PIC-system

Picanol Automatic full pickfinding

Picanol Pick Repair Automation and Prewinder Switch-Off

Shed layout and reed beat-up

Fig. 26: Reed Dwell Time

Positive Cam Shedding

Positive cam shedding- ideal for denim

Fig. 29: Staubli Positive Cam

- Oil bath lubrication or circulation type lubrication electronically monitored

Electronic Shedding System

Fig. 30: Toyota Electronic Shedding

Advantages of Electronic Shedding: