Building a Butt-Welder

for Band Saw Blades

By HAROLD P. STRAND

Fig. 1. Welding a band saw blade is easy with this handy unit. The white spot
between the electrodes is the white hot steel at the moment of the weld.

O WNERS of band saws can use a butt-weld-

er to weld easily and quickly the ends of
blades varying in width from .125 to ½ in.
A welder will allow the saw to do internal
place them with the joint in the center of the gap
of the main clamps and tighten the screws. Line
up the ends, tapping them so they butt in good
alignment. For blades of narrow width, such as
cutting, when it is necessary to cut the blade so .125 in., the #1 position of the selector switch will
it can be passed through a center hole in the probably be best. For those up to about .438 in.
work. Blade stock can be bought in continuous use the #2 position, with #3 taking the oth-
coiled lengths and cut off to the right measure,
and welded. Broken blades can often be salvaged
by cutting off new ends and welding, or damaged
sections can be cut out and new pieces inserted.
The welder can be used to join small steel rods,
such as extensions to twist drill shanks up to
about .188, in. in diameter. This feature is useful
in model work for butt-welding small parts of
similar type.
Operation of the welder is simple. Cut off
square the ends of the blade to be welded, grind
if necessary so they will meet perfectly. Then
Fig. 1A. Testing the welded blade in the gage after
grinding. The blade, less the teeth, must be able to
pass through the .027 gap of the gage, so it will not
catch in the saw guides. Also note the guard for the
wheel and the extra toggle switch for the light below,
added later.

HOME-BUILT POWER TOOLS

97
 MATERIALS LIST—BUTT-WELDER
1 pc. cold rolled steel plate, 8" x 10" x 1/8" (panel)
1 pc. ¾" plywood, 8½ x 10½" or larger to suit parts
used (base)
2 pcs. ¾" angle iron 12½" long, cut and welded to
form angle brackets (panel braces)
2 5/8" stacking of E laminations or strips of silicon steel,
1¾" wide as per drawing (transformer core). Angle
iron as req. for side brackets
1 Struthers-Dunn or similar single pole relay, 115 volt
A.C. coil
1 small receptacle and attachment plug (grinder motor
supply)
1 single pole cartridge type fuse block and 10 ampere
fuse
7 ft. #16 two-wire rubber cord
1 attachment cap
3½ lbs. (approx.) #18 Formex magnet wire, cut and
placed on two separate spools, half on each (trans-
former primary)
4 pcs. about 6 ft. long, Formex rectangular magnet wire,
.105 x .165 or larger (transformer secondary)
1 pc. of extra flexible insulated wire, #1 size or larger
(secondary jumper)
4 100 amp. copper solder lugs (secondary terminals)
1 pc. copper bus stock, 6¼" x 7/8" x 1/8" cut to make
two pieces as req. (secondary terminals)
1 4-point Ohmite tap switch and indicating knob
2 Micro Switches, 3/16" dia. plungers, common, O and
C terminals (control switches)
1 pc. flat brass stock. 3 3/8" x ½" x ½", bent and cut to
fit, (lower switch operating arm)
1 pc. brass stock, ½" x ½" x ½" (block fitted to lower
end of arm)
1 pc. 3/16" steel rod, threaded on end, 10-32, ¼" long,
(lower switch adjusting screw). Also 10-32 nut and
small compression spring to fit over rod
1 indicating radio knob to fit shaft
1 small flange type push button, commercial type, (an-
nealing push button)
1 pc. mild steel, 4¼" x ¾" x ¼". (cut and shaped for
inside vertical arm)
Fig. 2. Annealing is done in the lower clamps, with
the selector switch on #1 position. The joint is al-
lowed to reach a bright cherry red.
ers. However, an initial adjustment will have to
be made on the small knob at the right side of
the unit, which governs the timing of the auto-
matic cut-off switch. Short pieces of blade can
be used for a test, until the cut-off switch opens
the circuit at the precise moment when the slid-
ing electrode moves to make the weld. If this
timing is too late, the blade will be burned off.
98
1 ¾" x 24 cap screw, threads not to run quite up to
head, (operating arm shaft)
2 3/8" x 24 hex nuts (for shaft)
1 pc. ¾" angle iron, 3 3/8" long, cut and shaped to form
operating arm
1 3/8" steel collar to be welded to arm
1 10-32 and
1 8-32 Allen set screws
4 ¼" #20 flathead brass screws, 1¾" long (electrode
clamping screws)
7 ¼" #20 brass hex nuts for same
2 steel spacer sleeves 9/16" O.D. ¼" I.D. ½" long-
(sliding electrode)
1 expansion spring 5/16" O.D. 1 1/8" long, about .043
wire (sliding electrode)
1 extension spring 5/16" O.D. 2" long, about .038 wire
(vertical arm return spring)
1 compression spring 13/32" O.D. ½" long, 5 turns .054
wire (attaches to vertical arm)
4 pcs. ¾ x 3/16" angle iron, 2 ¾" long (electrodes)
2 pcs. brass stock, 1" x ½" x 3/8" (electrode clamps)
2 brass thumb screws, 5/16" x 18, 1" long (electrode
clamping screws)
2 pcs. mild steel, 1 ½" x ½" x 3/8 (annealing clamps)
2 10-32 thumb screws ½" long (annealing clamping
screws)
1 pc. steel plate, 3" x 1 ½" x 1/8" (plate welded to back
of sliding electrode)
1 pc. steel stock 1 ½" x 3/8" x 1/8" (electrode stop)
2 pcs. Bakelite 3" x l ½" x 1/8" (insulation of fixed elec-
trode)
2 Bakelite sleeves 3/8" O.D. ½" I.D. 3/8" long (insulation
of fixed electrode)
1 steel spacer sleeve 3/8" O.D. ¼" I.D. .002 longer than
thickness of panel, (sliding electrode)
1 capacitor motor, 1/30 H.P., 1725 speed with 3" fine
grit wheel, fitted with switch
1 pc. ½" plywood 6" x 5½" (motor base)
Perforated sheet steel as required to box in unit
Misc. bolts, screws, washers, etc.
If it is too soon, the power will be cut off before
proper temperature has been reached. Make
adjustments on the knob, clockwise to shorten
the timing and counter clockwise to increase it,
moving it but the slightest amount, since the
Micro Switch, which it operates, moves but a
few thousandths from its on to its off position.
After satisfactory adjustment has been made,
Fig. 3. The grinder provides a chance to grind off
the rough edges of the weld at both sides of the blade.
 SECONDARY
LEADS
TAPED COIL PRIMARY
E TYPE LAMINATIONS REQUIRED LEADS SIDE DETAILS
SAME TURNS
STACKING AS OWEN

FIBER
INSULATION NEXT LAYER
STRIP

MAXIMUM . MIN
CORE BUILT UP CLEARANCE TRANSFORMER
COIL HEIGHT:
FROM SILICON
AFTER STEEL STRIPS
TAPING DIA.
ALTERNATE POSITIONS 10A FUSE
STACK ANGLE GRINDER
OF EACH LAYER SO
TO IRON CUT OUTLET
JOINTS ARE COVERED AND WELDED

MAX.WIDTH OF COIL CUT LENGTH OF PIECES TO FIT COIL AS SHOWN OR LONGER

WILL REQUIRE LARGER BASEBOARD ON UNIT IF NECESSARY
AFTER TAPING FOR GREATER SPACE

this will usually stay for some time.

With the blade in the clamps (Fig.
1), press down in a positive and rea-
sonably quick manner on the oper-
ating lever. There will be a quick show
of white heat, and the sliding elec-
trode will move slightly as spring
tension presses the joint together.
Then the power will automatically Fig. 4. Work done with the welder in which a blade and a 3/16 in.
be cut off. Hold the lever down a steel rod hare been butt-welded is shown above.
few seconds until the joint is some-
what cooled. Remove blade from
clamps and place in lower annealing
clamps (Fig. 2). However, the joint
will be very hard and brittle from
welding, so handle it carefully to
avoid breaking. With the selector
switch on #1 position, press the an-
nealing button. Allow blade to be-
come a bright cherry red, then re-
lease the button. Remove rough
edges of weld from both sides of
blade on the grinder (Fig. 3). In a
good weld, a raised ridge of uniform Fig. 8. The coil is shown complete, ready for taping. Four strips
appearance will be found on both of rectangular Formex wire are use for the secondary winding.
sides of the blade and the ends will
butt in good alignment (Fig. 4), fol-
lowing the first operation. If one end
has climbed over the other, the ends
did not butt properly when placed
in the clamps.
The main component is a heavy-
duty transformer (Fig. 5), built in
the shop. It is designed for 115 volt,
60 cycle primary, with three second-
ary voltages, 1 volt, 2 volts and 3
volts, through the selector switch on
the panel. This type of welding re-
quires anywhere from 100 to 200
amps., according to the size of the
stock to be heated, and very heavy Fig. 9. To stack the core around the coil, alternate the positions of
secondary wire must be used. Since the E and straight pieces so as to cover the butt joints of each layer
with the succeeding one.
the highest current will be required
when welding wide blades and steel rods, the old one formerly used in a motor control unit
#3 position of the switch should be used. The and the necessary dimensions of the E lamina-
wider the blade, the greater the care must be tions are given in Fig. 6. The window area given
taken to have the ends of the blade square and is the minimum size that will accommodate the
meeting their full width. coil when wound. If you can't locate simi-
The core for the transformer was taken from an lar laminations, use strips of silicon transformer

HOME-BUILT POWER TOOLS 99

 Fig. 10. Completed transformer Fig. 11. Use your 6-volt soldering iron transformer to solder the heavy
with side supports of angle iron.
steel, 26 gage, to build up a core (Fig. 7).
Winding the Coil
Be careful to make the center block of the coil
form slightly larger than width and stacking of
core, so coil will fit over this leg properly. Block
should be about .125 in. shorter than depth of
window space so coil will fit down in position
just below the ends of the E.
The primary consists of a total of 354 turns of
two #18 Formex wires wound on together in
parallel, or one #15 can be substituted. Loops
are brought out at the 150th and 200th turns, as
taps about 8 in. long. Both the taps and the start
and finish ends should be equipped with cotton
sleeving of different color for identification and
added insulation. With a turn of .015 Duro or
similar insulating paper over the form block be-
fore winding, place another layer over the fin-
ished primary, and secure with Scotch tape. All
leads must be brought out at one of the narrow
sides of the form, or it will not be possible to in-
stall the coil on the core later. Then tie up the
coil, through the slots provided in the form and
remove the sides. Tap out the center block care-
fully and place four added tie strings around the
coil at the four corners, then replace the block
for support while the secondary is wound on.
The secondary wire used by the author con-
sisted of four rectangular Formex wires, .105 x
.165, laid together, taped lightly at intervals, and
wound on as one heavy conductor. Four turns
are required and as this wire is quite stiff, it can
best be put on by hand. If laminations with a
greater window area are on hand, use wire of
greater size if possible, but in the case illustrated
the finished coil would not have fitted in the
core. Start by bending one end of the four strips,
which should be cut about 6 ft. long, to 90°, about
an inch from the end. This is then tightly tied
around and over the insulated primary coil. Wind
on the four turns carefully, shaping the wire as
you go. The end is also bent and tied to the
start with a strong string. This finish end should
be cut off with a hacksaw to about an 8 in. length
for the present. Later it is cut again to fit cor-
rectly up to one of the electrode terminal bolts.
Then tightly wind the coil with white cotton coil
100
copper lugs to the secondary.
tape and dip in insulating baking varnish. After
draining, bake it in an oven for 3 to 4 hours at
200-275° F. Lacking oven facilities, dip the coil
in air drying insulating varnish and hang up in
a warm place for a day or two. Fig. 8 shows the
coil after winding, just prior to taping. Strings
placed around coil keep secondary in shape; all
leads come out at narrow side of coil.
Stacking the Core
When stacking the core (Fig. 9), place the E
pieces in alternate position, so that the butt joints
of the preceding layer will be covered by the
next. A wooden V block under the coil greatly
facilitates this work. Stack the core, in the case
of the laminations detailed, to 2.625 in., which, with
a center leg of 1.625 in., gives an approximately
4 sq. in. cross-sectional area to the core. Should
the width vary somewhat from 1.625 in., the height
can be adjusted to give around the same area.
Strips cut 1¾ in. wide and stacked to about 2¼
in. will also give an area close enough to 4 in., if
a core of this type is selected. If it is found that
the finished coil is too large to fit in between the
outside legs of the E laminations, place it in a
vise with two blocks of wood and compress it
carefully. Usually it is possible to do quite a bit
of compressing before the I.D. of the coil is re-
duced so it will not fit over the center leg, since
coil may spring out after removal from form.
Fig. 10 shows the completed transformer with
its side brackets of angle iron. Wooden wedges
have been driven between the ends of the coil
and the core center leg, to tighten the lamina-
tions at that point. At the sides of the coil, where
it made close contact with the core, thin fiber was
used when stacking to avoid having a grounded
coil. Solder the heavy copper lugs to the ends
of the secondary (Fig. 11) using a six-volt solder-
ing iron transformer. Do this after the panel has
been finished, so the exact length of the long lead
can be determined by fitting. Solder one lug to
the bent end of start of winding, as close as
possible to coil, taking care to clean off insulation
well. To this lug, bolt one end of the lug-equipped
heavy jumper of #1 flexible cable. Place a short
piece of large sleeving over the long lead before
attaching the lug.
 The panel (Fig. 13) is tached to a .375 in. x 24
made of a piece of .125 in. cap screw (Fig. 18B)
steel plate, attached in a which is used as a shaft
v e r t i c a l position with through the panel. On
two side b r a c k e t s to the back side a vertical
a ¾ in. plywood base. lever (Fig. 18C) is se-
Two clamp-type elec- cured to the shaft so it
trodes are used on the will be moved by the
panel (Fig. 14). The right first one. A short but
hand one is insulated quite heavy compression
and is fixed (Fig. 15), spring is secured to the
while the other is not in- lever with a single screw
sulated and is made to in the center which
slide about .063 in., by bears a g a i n s t a steel
slightly slotting the bolt spacer sleeve on one of
holes (Fig. 16). The bolts the bolts (Fig. 14). This
of the sliding member are spring causes the com-
equipped with short steel pression of the ends of
sleeves, which are cut the blade after heat has
about .002 longer than melted the steel. An-
the thickness of the pan- other coiled spring (Fig.
Fiq. 12. A right side view shows the adjusting 14) is used at the top of
el. The slotted holes are knob, which regulates the timing of the weld.
made a close but free the lever to return it
fit for these sleeves. In to its original position.
this way, it is possible to tighten the nuts at the A Micro Switch has been placed so that
back of the panel and yet allow the piece to slide movement of the inside lever will compress its
freely. A coiled spring is fitted to keep this part plunger. These switches have three terminals
back against the stop on the front of the panel with one common so that they may be connected
(Fig. 16), which is placed in position so as to either as normally open or normally closed
limit the sliding motion to about .063 in. switches. This one should be a normally open
The main operating lever (Fig. 18A) is at- switch Another switch is placed in a lower
8-32 PANEL SCREWS START I OFF-NO
10" 2 WIRE
SWITCH
8- 32 SPRING 3 ARM
SCREW

SET SCREW
DRILL HOLES PUSH BUTTON
AS REQ. TO FIT HOLE 6-32 SCREWS
FOR MICRO SCREW STOP
SLIDING ELECTRODE
SWITCH 4 POINT OHMITE
SPACER SLEEVE TAP SWITCH
SPRING
BAKELITE PLATE STEEL PLATE RETURNS
8"
STOP ELECTRODE BAKELITE
PLATE
2" COPPER FIXED
RETURN BUS
SPRING ELECTRODE
SCREW
ATTACH
10-32 SPRING BEARS
BETWEEN ENDS AGAINST SPACER FINISH END OF
OF ANGLE IRON STEEL SECONDARY
HOLES CAN BE PANEL SLEEVE
LOCATED ON BETWEEN NUT ATTACH FLEXIBLE JUMPER HERE
PANEL FROM PLATES SPRING SECONDARY LEAD HERE (START)
THOSE ON CUT OFF BRASS ARM
ELECTRODES 6-32 SCREWS SWITCH
FOR SOLDERED TO BLOCK
MICRO SWITCH TAP 10-32
ARM ASSEMBLY SLIDES
WITH ELECTRODE
¼" HOLE DRILLED IN ANGLE IRON FOR EXTENSION AND CUT OFF SWITCH ARM BLOCK
ADJUSTING SCREW
FRONT VIEW BACK VIEW
position with an arm attached to the copper bus
bar and an adjusting screw bearing against its
18 THUMB SCREW
BRASS
STEEL plunger. This one is a normally closed switch.
PANEL
BAKELITE The switches are connected in series and con-
SLEEVE
ANGLE nect the line to the coil of the relay (Fig. 19).
IRON
BAKELITE
COPPER In operation, pressing down on the lever causes
SCREW
BUS
20 BRASS
the top switch to close and, since the lower one
TURNED FOR
SHOULDER
BRASS CLAMP is already closed, a current flows through the
SCREW
relay coil. The relay contacts close and send
BRASS
10-32 HEX NUTS a heavy current of low voltage to the welder
THUMB
SCREW
electrode clamps. With the ends of the blade
SURFACE
SECONDARY
LEAD MILLED FLAT preventing the sliding electrode from moving,
DETAIL OF FIXED SAW CUT TO FIT- current flows until the steel has become plastic,
ELECTRODE STANDARD
BLADES
then, with the sliding of the movable electrode,
the lower switch contacts are opened, which re-

HOME-BUILT POWER TOOLS 101

 PANEL
SECONDARY STEEL PLATE
STEEL PLATE WELDED ON LEAD
WASHER
.002 WELDED
CLEAR-
ANCE 20 BRASS
F.H. SCREW

STEEL SLEEVE SPACER

.002 LONGER SLEEVE
HOLES IN PANEL THAN PANEL O.D.
SLOTTED ABOUT THICKNESS
TO PROVIDE O.D.
I D.
SLIDING MOTION

SET SCREW FIXED ELECTRODE

SLIDING
ELECTRODE SET SCREW Fig. 28. The lamp is shown in its socket, but the
LOCK WASHER
light shield has been removed in above photo.
TOP VIEW OF ELECTRODES
suits in a shutting off of the power. serves to close the relay for annealing. With the
A view of the back of the panel, with all parts selector switch on #1, approximately 1 volt will
in place, is given in Fig. 20. The primary leads flow through the blade, which heats the portion
are attached to the selector switch. The heavy between the annealing clamps quite slowly, espe-
jumper, which should be extra flexible cable of cially on the wider blades. These clamps are
at least #1 gage insulated copper stranded wire, merely pieces of ½ x 3/8 in. mild steel stock, saw
connects from the start of the secondary to the cut to a depth of ½ in. and fitted with 10-32
movable electrode. The finish end of the second- thumb screws. They are welded or screwed to the
ary can just be seen at the right, with its lug underside of the main clamps ½ in. apart.
attached to the insulated electrode. The relay
can be any type of single pole variety, with NORMALLY
SLIDING
GROUNDED
FIXED
INSULATED
ANNEALING
PUSH
4-POINT
S.W.
reasonably heavy contacts and a 115 volt 60 OPEN S.W. CLAMP CLAMP BUTTON
cycle coil. It is placed at the right of the trans- OFF
former, with a fuse block located at the left.
Another rear view, showing the protecting cage FLEXIBLE CABLE
#1
and grinder is given in Fig. 21. Note the small NORMALLY
plug-in receptacle that has been mounted to the CLOSED S.W. 2 LUGS
BOLTED
base at the left for connection of the grinder 354T
200T
motor. The latter is a 1/30 hp capacitor type 150T 4-TURN RELAY
NORMALLY
fitted with a 3 in. wheel and running at 1725 PRI.
SEC.

OPEN
rpm, and is ample for the light grinding of blades. TRANSFORMER CONTACTS
The wiring diagram (Fig. 19) gives all of the 10 AMP
connections. FUSE 115 V. COIL

Fig. 22 is a front view to illustrate panel de- REC.

OUTLET
tails. The annealing push button is a small but FOB
heavy duty commercial type, flange mounted, and GRINDER 115V. 60~

DIA.
24 THREAD DIA.
SMOOTH
SHANK
B
CAP SCREW
TAP 10-32 FOR SET SHAFT
SCREW

ANGLE IRON

COLLAR WELDED ON

A
OPERATING LEVER
C
DETAIL OF VERTICAL ARM
MATERIAL-MILD STEEL

Fig. 20. View of back of panel shows op-

erating parts. The heavy flexible jumper,
bolted to the secondary, is visible. The
other secondary lead is attached to the
insulated electrode at the right.

102
 the shield have been soldered 6-32
nuts so the screws holding the wheel
guard in place can pass through and
engage these nuts.
The blade gage (Fig. 29) consists
of a piece of 1/8 in. steel stock, cut
out to shape and bent up so it will fit
on the front end of the motor and be
secured with the motor tie bolts. This
provides a flat surface about 1 x ¾ in.
To this surface is secured, with 6-32
screws, a piece of the same steel with

Fig. 21. A view of the completed job,

with the protecting cage removed. The
small receptacle at the lower left sup-
plies the grinder motor.
The welder can be dressed up
further and at the same time made
more convenient to use by enclosing
the grinding wheel for better safety
and adding a light over the elec-
trodes, so better vision is assured for
placing the ends of blades (Fig. 23).
A third addition is a gage placed on
the front end of the motor, to test the
welded joint for thickness after Fig. 22. This front view shows the panel details.
grinding.
The wheel guard (Fig. 24) is HP 1725 RPM. MOTOR
made from heavy galvanized sheet SUPPORTING FIXTURE FOR
ARBOR MADE TO FIT 2 TOGGLE SWITCHES
steel, bent up as shown and attached SHAFT AND WHEEL MAT'L.- 24 GA. GAL. SHEET STEEL

to the tray under the wheel with two 6-32 SCREWS HOLD ASSEMBLY
TO ORIGINAL WHEEL TRAY
6-32 screws. To the underside of the TRAY
tray is attached a candelabra base DIA. HOLES FOR TOGGLE
socket to take a 15 watt 115 volt PLYWOOD SWITCH
TO 115 V.
tubular lamp (Fig. 25). The socket 15W. TUBULAR CANDELABRA BASE LAMP
RECEPTACLE
was taken from a panel type pilot GENERAL DETAILS OF MOTOR WITH LAMP CAP. MOUNTED ON
WHEEL GUARD AND LAMP SHIELD UNDERSIDE OF
lamp fixture and consists of a screw TOP 5CPEEN
shell attached to a metal strap, bent DIMENSIONS
CAD

BASED ON
to fit as shown. Two small screws MOTOR
HEIGHT WHEEL
and nuts hold the socket to the tray,
through drilled holes in the strip and RAISED MOTOR S.P. TOGGLE
SWITCHES
TO CLEAR
the tray. Wires soldered to the WHEEL NUT
IF REQUIRED
terminals of the socket are carried to PLYWOOD
BASE
the wiring at the side of the motor
where the single toggle switch is re- LAMP

WIRING DIAGRAM
placed with two switches on a new
DIA. TO CLEAR
wider support (Fig. 26). Thus a switch 6-32 SCREW
1"
is provided for the motor and an-
other for the lamp. The lamp wires DETAILS OF WHEEL GUARD MATERIAL-
SHEET STEEL
24 GA. GAL. .027 GAP FOR
.025 SAY
are spliced to one side of the 115 volt TO FIT BLADES
MOTOR
line and one terminal of the new TO 110 VOLTS
BEND STRAP 90º TO FIT MOTOR BOLTS

switch. A short jumper connects SHIELD

6-32 SCREWS BLADE
115-V. 15W. DETAILS OF
COVERS
the other side of the switch to the FRONT TUBULAR LAMP
RUBBER
GROMMET
BLADE GAGE
OF LAMP TO BE MOUNTED
other side of the line. The wiring BLADE SHOULD SLIDE THROUGH ON MOTOR
CANDELABRA SOCKET AND STRAP FROM A GAGE NOT INCLUDING TEETH MAT'L.COLD
diagram shows these connections in PANEL TYPE PILOT LAMP FIXTURE ROLLED STEEL

detail (Fig. 27).

The next step is to make a front shield for the a spacer of .027 between. Since standard blades
lamp, and some of the same galvanized steel is are .025 in thickness, this allows .002 clearance.
used. In Fig. 28 this shield is shown removed to All blades after grinding should be able to pass
get a view of the lamp assembly. To the tabs on through this gage (Fig. 1A.).

HOME-BUILT POWER TOOLS 103