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The (immediate) pigment formed immediately after a UVA1 exposure is believed to result from a
phytochemical reaction involving preexisting melanin pigment as well as melanin precursors and
metabolites. It is also believed that some reorganization of microtubules and microfilaments occurs in
immediate pigment. Immediate pigment is reversible for doses smaller than th threshold for persistent
pigment. Persistent pigment is a photochemically initiated enzymatically controlled producuon of
melanin polymer from preexisting monomers and melanin precursors. Within three to five days we
observe melanogenesis, that is, the biological process of producing native pigmentation as a result of
stimulating the melanocytes to produce more pigment. Melanogenis has been documented both for
UVA and for UVB five days after exposure by assessing the distribution and amount of melanin in the
epidermis with AgNO3 staining and DOPA staining(activity of the enzyme tyrosinase). The message
here is that UVAl produces a pigment that may persist depending on the dose of UVA1 radiation, and
the skin response may include an erythema in the early phases of the reaction. In contrast, UVB first
induces an erythema reaction that is then followed by a pigment that may last for weeks or months.
Both reactions to UVA or B result in de novo melanogenesis five days after exposure.
UVB radiation also induced proliferation of epidermal keratinoctes,resulting in a thikening of the
epidermis. This proferative response may be thought of as a repair following the DNA damage in
epidermal keratinocytes. The new keratinocytes are loaded with melanin from adjacent melanocytes
and progress up the epidermis toward the stratum corneum over the next five days. In this way we may
think of UVB pigmentation as due to melanin that is distributed fairly uniformly throughout the
epidermis.in contrast,UVA radiation does not induce a proliferative reapomse. Thus the pigment that is
stimulated by UVA radiation is produced in the melanocytes and is the transferred to the basal
keratinocytes. UVA induced epidermal melanin pigmentation thus resides in the vicinity of the
basement membrane,while UVB induced epidermal pigment is distributed throughout the epidermis.
Epidermal pigment formation also may be stimulated by visible Light. Visible Light does not produce
an erythema (no effect on the blood vessels). The pigment that is produced resembies UVA2 pigment
in that is appears immediately after exposure,and if the dose of Light is sufficient it may last for weeks
or months.
Over the years gilchrest and cowokers have tried to elucidate the mechanism of melanin production and
its dependency on DNA damage,nerve growth factor, and related signaling mechanism. These
investigators have also shown that DNA fragment like those produced by UV radiation (thymine dimers
and 4-6 photoproducts) can stimulated melanogenesis in an animal model. Their interpretation is that
DNA cross links formed by UV exposure undergo excision repair by endnuclease,and the fragment
removed from the DNA chain the signal melanogenesis. It has been shown that POMC (pro-
opiomelanocortin) and the downstream hormones MSH,ACTH,b-endorphin,and lipotropin play
important roles in melanogenesis.
in summary. sunlight is made upof UVB, UVA, and visible radiation therefore it is the balance among
these components that determines the skin responses. The UVA pigment responses include an
immediate pigment (a transient response that lasts minutes to hours) and a persistent pigment that lasts
for weeks to months. Visible light induces a response similar to that of UVA
except that the appearance of the pigment is slightly different. The UVB response starts with an
erythema and develops into a melanin pigment, which may be lost when peeling occurs.
SKIN TYPES~THE GENETIC BASIS OF RESPONSES TO ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION
The responses of the skin to UV radiation are to a great extent genetically determined. The first-hour
exposure to midday sun following the winter months of no exposure has been used to characterize skin
types for white-skinned persons.
“Skin typing" of individuals in practical situations usually means a visual classification of individuals
based on their pigment level; persons planning studies should keep in mind that skin color and skin UV
reactivity, although probably related, are not the same. While this classification scheme is useful to
identify individuals at risk from UV radiation-induced skin cancer, it remains controversial when its
use is extended to predicting the threshold dose of UVB or UVA to produce an erythema or pigment.
These skin types have also been called “sun-reactive” skin types because this scheme the response to
UV rather than the skin color. There have been modifications of the scheme for none/bite individuals.
Epidermal melanin pigmentation has been classified as constitutive and facultative pigmentation.
Constitutive pigmentation refers to the pigment found in skin areas that have never been exposed to UV
radiation or any chronic insult. facultative pigmentation is pigment produced in response to UV
radiation exposure or other pigment-inducing insult. Persons with the genetic ability to pigment
following a UV exposure are called melanocompetent and those individuals who produce essentially
no pigment are called melanocompromised
It is accepted that UVB causes immunosumpression and that this effect has important implications for
photocarcinogenesis and exacerbation of infectious diseases. Assays for immunosuppression have
included local and systemic suppression of contact hypersensitivity to DNFB (dinitrofluorobenzene)
and systemic suppression of delaye type hypersensitivity to Candida albicans or alloantigen. Studies
have been conducted in both animal models and human subjects. While UVB induced
immunosumpression has been well documented, the effects of UVA on the immune System are still
under study. Initial results indicate that it also plays a role. UV-induced immunosuppression in humans
was recently reviewed in depth [23].
Exposure of skin to UV light impairs sensitization to haptens applied directly to the irradiated
area of the skin. Hapten-specific tolerance may develop due to the generation of specific T suppressor
cells, and it has been proposed that apoptosis plays an important role in immune reactions. In particular,
data indicate that T suppressor cells may induce the death of antigen-presenting cells in the presence of
the specific hapten and that the Fas/FasL system is involved in the process. (Fas. also called CD95 or
APO-l, is a surface molecule that indu ces apoptotic cell death.) Studies to assess the effectiveness of
sun protection products (sunscreens) have shown that UVC (wavelengths shorter than 290 nm) is also
very effective in inducing inununosuppression. A controversy ha: developed relating to the protective
ability of sunscreen products against immunosuppression. which may be associated with improper
definition of the output of the light source used in the studies.
UV radiation causes cancer in the skin by damaging the ability of the skin cells to control proliferation.
The cells have three ways to combat UV damage and minimize cancer risk, including DNA repair,
apoptosis, and immunosurveillanoe. UV radiation can damage skin cells by forming dimers in DNA
between adjacent pyrimidine residues, potentially leading to UV “signature“ mutations that can
accumulate over time. The cell can reSpond to the damage by repairing the DNA to avoid the effects of
the mutations or if the damage ts too great by inducing cell death through apoptosis to remove potential
cancer cells from the population
UV radiation is a complete carcinogen: it can act alone as an inititor and a promoter in formation of
cancer. UV can also act as a promoter with initiating events inside the cell, such as DNA mutations
arising from DNA polymerase incorpcration errors, depuzination. deamination cf 5-methylcytosine, or
oxidative damage from free radicals. UVA, while a complete carcinogen, is much less effective than
UVB. However, it may act as a cocarcinogen in combination with UVB, as in solar radiation.
There is an additional premalignant, benign lesion-actinic keratosis-in which the epidermis proliferates,
producing a hyperkeratotic lesion [19]. These lesions are characteristic of photodamaged skin of
individuals with skin type I or II, and they may spontaneously disappear. However, actinic keratoses
have p53 mutations as NMSC.
CHRONIC EFFECTS OF ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION
While the acute responses of skin to UV radiation have been studied extensively, photoaging studies
have been less prominent. Evidence 15 now forth coming that phctoaging changes may be produced in
the laboratory with a relatively small number of exposures.
REVERSAL OF PHOTOAGING
There have been a number of pharmacologic developments to reverse the visual signs of
rhotoaging. These include retinoic acid and its derivatives, alphahydroxy acids, antioxidants, and many
natural products. These materials have been tuned and have performed with variable effectiveness.
Solar photoaging is a profound change at the skin architecture that evolves over a long time to the final
state with elastotie material in the dermis. However it has been shown that solar elastosis can be found
histologically in young people-therefon prevention is a better approach than repair [23-25].
PHOTOSENSITIZATION
A number of materials including pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredients are potential
photosensitizing agens. A photosensitizer absorbs light and induces a photochemical action that may
result in the production of free radicals in the skin. Organic free radicals and reactive oxygen substances
(which include superoxide anion, singlet oxygen. hydroxyl radical, and hydrogen peroxide) are very
reactive-short-lived-chemical species that can cause inflammatory reactions by producing damage to
subcellular organelles, which may lead to tissue damage. They may also damage cell membranes or
induce cell death by apoptosis. The release of photoproducts may lead to photoallergy. Another
expression of photosensitization is hyperpigmentation induced by the combination of a drug and UV
light. as in Berloque dermatitis (bergamot oil). Photosensitizing compounds can be used therapeutically.
The psoralens. for example. are potent photomitizing agents that produce cross-links in the DNA and
thus act a antiproliferative agents. This is useful for conditions such as psoriasis. Psoralens are also used
to treat vitiligo (a disease of hypopigmentation) because of their high pigment-producing potential.
There is another group of skin diseases that are induced by UV light, the photodermatoses. like
actinic prurigo. porphyrias. polymorphous light erruption, actinic reticuloid. and others. It is not clear
whether an endogenous photosensitizer plays a role in all cases such as in porphyrias. Photosensitization
is a common phenomenon, especially in counuies with severe winters when peOple receive little sun
exposure. It is reported that as many as 10% of the population has some form of photosensitization
disorder. It is therefore important to maintain a high degree of vigilance in conducting tests for the
photosensitizing potential of cosmetic materials.
The skin develops tolerance to UV radiation following multiple exposures. Two factors, skin
thickening and tanning, have been identified as playing significant roles in protecting the skin from the
adverse effects of solar UV radiation. Skin thickening results from exposure to UVB only. The other
mechanism of adaptive ‘photoprotection is pigmentation. Tanning occurs following eitposure to both
UVB and UVA. Because of the simultaneous induction of proliferation along with new pigment
formation, the UVB pigment is distributed throughout the epidermis. The stratum comeurn of UVB-
exposed skin is well stained with melanin granules following a UVB exposure. Therefore ,the UVB tan
is protective, although the protection factor is low. The controversy of whether melanin effective
photoprotectant has raged for years. The absorbance of melanin in the critical UVB range is modest
The unanswered question is: Is the end product of melanogenesis,melanin a photoproteciant
against subsequent irradiation, or does the very process of melanogenesis free radical quenching by
DOPA per se act as a photoprotectant at the time of irradiation? The presence of urocanic acid has been
shown to provide some protection on the surface of l he stratum corneum. Urocanic acid is produced in
the epidermis as an enzymatic breakdown of filaggrin,a protein in the keratinocytes. It is a weak UVB
filter providing a protection factor of approximately 2. Urocanic acid also undergoes a cis-trans
isomerization reaction when exposed to UV radiation, Which has been shown to play a role in the
induction of immunosuppression.
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