948 Jeans Instructions Complete PDF

Jeans
Pattern Number 948
Instructions
Patterns for Members

angelakane.com
Introduction
The following pages will guide you during the making of this great pattern. If you have a little
experience with sewing you should be able to make a stunning pair of jeans.
Fabric
I am sure you will be eager to make a classic pair of blue denim jeans to start with. If your
sewing machine is not good at thick layers, try some of the lightweight denims. Corduroy is
also a good option for the cooler seasons and is often easier to stitch than denim. There are
many other options - tweeds, faux leather and suede,velvet and other evening fabrics, all can
be found with stretch. Tweed jeans are very in at the moment.
Denim comes in a range of widths - I currently have yardage of 130cm to 160cm.
This pattern is slim fit and is best suited to stretch denim. Look for added Spandex, Elastine
or Lycra - they are similar. If you choose to use classic non-stretch then go one size larger for
comfort.
How Much to Buy?

I do not draft cutting out layouts for my patterns. There are too many variables and it is much
better to get to know your pattern and determine your fabric requirements yourself.
The diagram on the next page illustrates the difference that size makes. The front and back
of a small size of any garment often fits side by side on the fabric whereas larger sizes
may need double the length. Factor in everyone’s height and you have even more yardage
combinations.
I always buy generous lengths especially basics such as denim. I know I am going to make
several pairs and I always find things to do with the shorted lengths that are over.
Page 2
Copyright © Angela Kane - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
Layouts
Size 6 Selvedge
Centre Front
Fabric is folded length-ways matching the
selvedge edges.
size
6
We can see how much fabric requirements differ
size
6
between the sizes 06 and 22.
Here I show an average width denim of 140cm.
size
6
size
6
size
70cm
6
size
6
Pocket lining cut from a
good quality lining
fabric or other
size
6
size size
6
lightweight strong
22
size
6
fabric
Fold Centre Front
size
6
Selvedge
Centre Front
size
22
size
22
size
22
size
22
size
22
size
22
70cm
size
22
size
22
Size 22 Fold
0.5mtr 1mtr 1.5mtr 2mtr 2.5mtr

Fabric, Notions and Equipment
Fabric Zip
Denim, corduroy, cotton drill, tweed. All of these fabrics can be Jeans need a chunky zip. I am currently using Opti Metal General
found with an element of stretch. Purpose Zips. They come in all colours and start at 4” (10cm).
Lining You will need:
For the pocket bag. Maximum 0.3mtrs of firm but light weight 4” zip for sizes 6-10
fabric. Pure silk feels nice.
5” zip for sizes 12-16
Interfacing 6” zip for sizes 18-22
Iron on interfacing for the waistband and fly. Also useful to stabilise
the pocket for machine embroidering the logo.
Equipment
Sewing machine. Overlocker if you have one.
Thread
Machine needles - regular, denim and topstitching needles.
Regular sewing thread such as Coats Duet or Gutermann both
100% polyester which is hard wearing. Scissors/shears - separate scissors for cutting out your pattern
and cutting your fabric. Scissors for snipping notches and threads.
Topstitching thread, again Coats and Gutermann do a great range
of colours. Tape measure, thimble, pins, hand sewing needles. Weights for
holding down pattern while you cut out rather than pinning.
Fastenings and Rivets
My sewing machine came equipped with a ‘jeans foot’. If you
Look out for Prym products. You will find them in most have one use it for your straight stitching. It really helps with the
haberdashery shops. dense thick fabric.
Page 4
Cutting out Quick Construction Run Through
1. Pre wash your denim as you would your finished jeans and 1. Insert the fly zip, so joining the fronts complete with topstitching
press. Denim will shrink, more so in the length and up to 10%. and fly guard.
2. Fold fabric length ways, matching the selvedge. 2. Attach the front pockets, complete with topstitching
3. Layout your pieces spacing them generously. We will 3. Join the back yokes to the backs and topstitch.
be cutting out with the standard dressmakers 5/8” seam
allowance. I find weights work better than pins because of the 4. Embroider and prepare the back pockets.
thickness of the paper. Curtain weights work really well and 5. Stitch back pockets to backs.
use plenty.
6. Join backs to fronts at side seam and topstitch.
4. For pieces that are labelled ‘Cut 1’, cut from a single layer,
right side facing up. 7. Join the back seam and topstitch.
5. If you try this pattern on a tweed say, take account of stripes or 8. Join the inside leg seam from ankle to ankle.
checks and try and match at the side seams.
9. Attach the waistband, adding belt loops.
6. Take very careful notice of all grain lines. They must be
parallel to the selvedge. 10. Add jeans style press stud and rivets if desired.
7. You will quickly be able to judge cutting the 5/8” seam 11. Turn up and topstitch the hem.
allowance but measure and chalk if you are not sure.
8. Mark all notches with a snip into the seam allowance but stop
well short of the stitching line. Mark dots with tailor’s tacks.
9. Cut your pocket lining pieces from your lining fabric.
10. Cut interfacing for the waistband and the front fly with no seam
allowance.
Page 5
Step 1 - The Fly Zip
Before we do anything we test our stitching and also iron temperature on spare fabric.
I have the left and right fronts.
I have cut two pieces of iron on interfacing, both right sides up (I will call the sticky side the wrong side).
And I have one fly extension and the fly guard that was cut on the fold.
This opening is going to follow the man’s style, that’s left over right. I have been doing some research and I find that most women’s jeans close this way.
Stay stitch (a regular line of machine stitching) just inside the seam allowance along the pocket opening and the waist seam. This will stop the fabric from stretching
while we are working on the fly opening.
Stay Stich Pocket and Waist

Seam to Prevent Stretching
Denim
Right
Side
Denim
Wrong Left Front Right Front
Side Wrong Side Wrong Side
Iron On
Interfacing
Right Side
Iron On Fly Interfacing x 2

Interfacing Note - Both the Same
Wrong Side Left Fly
Sticky Side Extension x 1 Right Front
Zip Guard x 1
Folded
Page 6
First, cut off the fly extension from the left front. For jeans it is better to have a seam rather than a fold. You get
a much better edge. It is drafted on the pattern to give you the option for the lighter weight fly you may prefer for
other trouser styles.
Trim away the seam allowance from the centre front of one of the pieces of fly interfacing.
Iron trimmed fly interfacing to wrong side of left front, lining up against centre front seam line.
Discard this piece
Left Front
Wrong Side
Trim away seam allowance
from centre front of one of
the interfacing pieces
Iron trimmed
interfacing to
wrong side of left
jeans front
Left Front
Wrong Side
Page 7
Stitch the separate fly extension to the Left
Front, right sides together then open out Left Front
pressing the seam allowance towards the Right Side
extension.
Iron the other piece of interfacing to the
Right Front, Wrong Side as shown.
Trimmed
Interfacing
Left Front
Right Front
Wrong Side
Wrong Side
Press, pressing seam Iron the second

towards extension piece of interfacing
to wrong side of
right front
Page 8
With right sides together, join left front to right front.
Machine baste centre front to dot - this is the zip end position. Then set
your machine for regular sewing and stitch the remainder of the seam.
The basting stitch will be removed later.
Press fly extensions open.
Baste
Left Front Right Front

Wrong Side Wrong Side
Change to
regular stitch Press open
stitch Press seam tp

remainder of the left below
Left Front extension Clip crotch
Wrong Side seam
curve below
dot
Page 9
Place zip. Fold the right front under leaving the Zip face
left fly extension extended as a single layer.
down
Place the zip, right side down so that the left
tape is lined up against the centre front, the top
of the tape at the top edge seam allowance.
The teeth will line up roughly with the dot.
centre front
Zip tape level Zip tape edge
with seam lined up
allowance edge against centre
front
Using your zipper foot, with the needle

to the left, stitch the zip to the left fly
extension. This is a securing row and
does not have to be right up against the
teeth.
Zip teeth end The left tape is aligned with the centre
Left Front about level front.
Wrong Side with dot
(depends on
zip brand)
Page 10
When you
reach the zip
pull, raise the
foot with the
Stitch a second row, close to the zipper needle in the
teeth. Again the needle is in the left
position. Open your zip to start. When fabric and slide
Start with zip
you approach the zip pull, with the needle the zip pull up
open a couple
down, lift the foot, slide the zip pull up
past the needle. Lower the foot and of inches
continue sewing to the end of the tape.
There are three This is the

layers this side - the single layer of
left extension, and the right front
the right and left extension
fronts
Page 11
Fold the zip to the right side, folding the fly extension back on itself. The zipper tape is
flat.
Machine baste continuing to the end of the zip.
The centre of the zip is approximately 3/4” from the centre front line.
Centre of zip
approximately 3/4 ”
from centre front
machine
Left Front baste
Wrong Side
Page 12
We flip our garment over and now the left side fly extension is extended. Underneath, all the seam allowances are
facing to the right. Let the zip settle where it wants to.
Using the zipper foot and machine thread, with the needle to the right, stitch along the right side of the tape. This is
a securing row and does not have to be close to the teeth.
Centre of zip approximately

3/4” from centre front
extension Stitch a second

extended row, far enough
from the teeth
Stitch to secure to get passed
tape. The stitches the zip pull.
do not have to be
close to the teeth
Zip is now
face down
Let the Needle right of

zipper foot
zip settle
where it Right Front
wants to Wrong Side
Page 13
Now for the all important topstitching.
Spread open your trouser fronts. The zip is now secured in place behind the left trouser front and
well to the left of the centre line. The diagram shows the hidden layers below.
Pin to secure fly extension.
Measure your desired topstitching distance from centre front and mark with chalk. Curve your
line to end at the centre front ¼” - ½” below the dot. This will safely avoid the teeth. Topstitch
following the topstitching line and stop at centre front. Either take threads to the inside to knot for
the neat look or backstitch for the rugged look.
If you could see through the layers

this what you would see
front and topstitching
The position of the

zip if we could see
through the 2 rows
denim. optional
Curve your topstitch-
below the dot at the

centre front.
Thus avoiding the
metal parts of the zip.
Page 14
This is how your jeans should look on the inside at this stage.
The topstitching should catch the bottom of the zip tape but be clear of the
zip teeth.
Most importantly the zip is well to the left of centre which means it will be
out of sight. There is plenty of room above the zip pull for the waistband to
be attached.
Centre of zip 3/4”

from centre front Centre front
centre front
Left Front
Wrong Side
Right Front
Wrong Side
Page 15
Attaching the zip guard/shield. This is an all important feature of the authentic jeans pattern and attaching it
requires a good understanding of the order of the remainder of the topstitching.
Take your fly guard and fold with the wrong sides together.
Finish the lower edge with a zigzag or overlocking.
Place the fly guard centrally over the zip (ignoring allowances). Pin to right fly extension only.
Pin guard to
fold
fold
extension
Left Front
Wrong Side
Right Front
Wrong Side
Page 16
Stitch along stitch line through the fly guard and the fly
extension. Fold back the right front and make sure you are just
sewing through the guard and the fly extension.
Trim and zigzag or overlock cutting away the extension seam
allowance
Stitch guard
to extension
along guard
seam line
fold
fold
Cut away the
Fold out of extension
Left Front Left Front seam allow-
the way
Wrong Side Wrong Side ance as you
neaten the
edge
Page 17
We have now come to the stage where we can remove the
basting from the centre front seam and reveal the fly zip in
action.
centre front
Remove basting
from the centre
front seam line
and open zip as
wide as possible
Page 18
Now for some topstitching to finish everything off. Next we stitch the overlap front edge and it is important to get this right,
wiggles here will be noticed. With the zip fully open, fold out of the way the
Number one rule, test your topstitching on some layers of fabric first. You
under lap. We use a conventional foot but if you have a short foot, such as
will need to tighten your top tension. You will have topstitching thread in the
an embroidery foot use that.
needle and standard machine thread in the bobbin.
When stitching the centre front go as far as you can without distorting the
This stage illustrates how important it is to do the topstitching in the correct
line as you approach the bulky zipper pull and no further. But don’t worry,
order.
you will see how all the stitching comes right in the end.
First you topstitch the edge of the under lap zip, holding the overlap out
of the way. Use the zipper foot and just go as far as you can with out
distortion. At this point these stitches will be hidden from view.
Using the shortest foot

you have, topstitch the
opening edge of the
left jeans front
centre front
Fold out of the way

the right jeans front
Topstitch as far
as you can
keeping close
to the edge
using the
zipper foot
Page 19
At this stage you need to neaten the front crotch seam. Overlock or trim and
zigzag but straighten the clipped curve out as you sew. The seam needs to lie
flat around the left leg curve for topstitching. Hold back the zip guard and neaten
up to the zip tape.
Return the zip guard to it’s position for the next stage - topstitching this seam.
Left Front
Wrong Side Right Front
Wrong Side
trim, zigzag or
overlock the front
crotch seam the left
press seam towards
the left front
Page 20
With the zip fully closed, from the right side, spreading
the crotch seam and with the seam towards the left Crotch
leg, topstitch using the regular foot. The zip guard is
lying flat in place behind the zip.
Stitch from
Start at the inner leg seam and continue to meet the here
centre front topstitching. Stitch through all layers.
The bottom of the zip guard with be secured in this
process. Take threads to inside and knot or backstitch
for the rugged look.
Waistline
Your stitching
will meet up
here
Start this
end
Page 21
We are very nearly finished with this complicated
process. A bar tack is very important at this position
which will be under stress. You want this to be the limit
to the opening. A line of narrow, close together zigzag
stitches is all that is required. You can use either
topstitching thread or regular machine thread.
The second bar tack secures the other side of the zip
guard and could be made from the inside stitching
through just the fly extension and the zip guard.
.....or just bar tack
Make a bar tack the inside that will

through all layers Make a second be hidden from
at the point bar tack here view.
where your last from the right
topstitching side to show .....
ended
Your jeans should look something like this on the

inside. Transparency shows the hidden layers.
There are many other ways to finish and reinforce

this fly opening. Instead of a bar tack, a double row
of topstitching along the crotch seam squaring off at
the bar tack position will do the job. Take a look at the
finish of jeans in general and choose your own look.
Page 22
Jeans
Pattern Number 948
Instructions to be continued
For most sewers the fly zip is the hardest part of making great jeans. So I
have gone into great detail here so that anyone can manage it if they follow the
instructions carefully.
I shall be continuing with these instructions shortly. In the meantime,
everything you need to know from now on is explained in my video ‘MAKING
TROUSERS - SEWING TUTORIAL’ where I make up my Front Pleated, Wide
Legged Trouser pattern. Just ignore references to the pleats and of course you
have the fly zip opening completed, so just stitch the back seam and attach the
waistband to suit the front opening.
Patterns for Members

angelakane.com
Page 23
Page 24
Jeans Pattern Number 948
Instructions continued
Quick Construction Run Through
We inserted the fly zip in Part 1, so our fronts are now joined.
1. Attach the front pockets, complete with topstitching
2. Join the back yokes to the backs and topstitch.
3. Embroider and prepare the back pockets.
4. Stitch back pockets to backs.
5. Join backs to fronts at side seam and topstitch.
6. Join the back seam and topstitch.
7. Join the inside leg seam from ankle to ankle.
8. Attach the waistband, adding belt loops.
9. Add jeans style press stud and rivets if desired.
10. Turn up and topstitch the hem.
Page 1
This is how we finished Part 1. The zip fly is finished. I reckon this takes over half the effort
of making jeans so from now on, it’s pretty easy.
We have our pocket placement notches and we have stay-stitched the top edge to protect it
from stretching.
These notches we need The pocket and top edge

to take notice of for our was stay-stitched in Part
pocket placement 1 to reduce the chance
stretching.
Page 2
Join the Pocket/Facing Denim to the Trouser Fronts right sides together, matching
notches with pocket corners. Stitch just the pocket opening seam.
Clip the curve at regular intervals, stopping short of the seam line. This will allow the seam
allowance to spread so the edge will remain flat.
Turn the Pocket to the inside, press, then topstitch/double topstitch,
Clip curve
Machine sitich
Choose whether to
single or double
topstitch
Page 3
Now take the Pocket Side Front Denim and the Pocket Lining Fabric. Matching
notches, place the denim over the lining, wrong sides together.
Pin then zigzag the lower edge and machine baste the other two sides
Machine baste top and side
Pocket Side Front
Pocket Side Front
Zigzag denim to
Pocket pocket lining
Lining/Under
Pocket
Pocket
Lining/Under
Pocket
Page 4
Machine baste pocket bag
to trouser fronts at waist
We are going to just stitch the under pocket
to the denim pocket facing. The pockets are
kept free from trouser fronts.
Finish the pocket bag seam allowance either
Machine
by zigzagging and trimming or overlocking.
baste pocket
Then machine baste the pocket bag to the
bag to
trouser fronts at the waist line and the side
seam to temporally hold in place. trousers
fronts at side
Stop here
Start Finish pocket edges

here
Stitch the two pocket pieces together, keeping

the pocket free from the trouser fronts
Page 5
The front pockets are done.
We can now start on the back.
First we join the back yokes to the trouser backs.
Right sides together, match the notches. The yoke
is very slightly curved so it will have to be snipped.
Neaten this seam. Trim and zigzag or topstitch.
Press this seam up and topstitch from the right side
above the seam line. Again, you can do a single or
double line of topstitching.
Match notches, pin and

Snip curve
machine stitch
Wrong Side
Right Side
Page 6
Embroidering pockets is deceptively easy. You can get great results either by hand or machine. If you are planning to use your own logo and I’ll allow
that, even on my design, then the best way forward is to experiment on a few denim pockets. My video ‘Make A Dress - Part 4’ shows you how to do a great
chain stitch logo and some simple but effective Lacy Daisy stitch decoration.
Decorating by machine is great fun. On these jeans I have just used the topstitching to match the rest of the decoration. I transferred the design with a
tracing wheel and dressmakers transfer paper, chalked it in to make it clearer then carefully stitched, turning corners with the needle down.
It helps to use some backing of some sort to stop the stitching from puckering. I like to use ‘Stitch and Tear’ - as it says, it stabilizes while you stitch and
afterwards you tear it away. I have found that using say iron-on interfacing over the whole pocket makes it too rigid - you want the pockets to follow your
curves.
Once the embroidery is completed, give the pockets a press. Iron a strip of interfacing to the upper seam allowance to give the edge stability. Alternatively
cut a slightly deeper allowance and double fold the turning. For a single turning, finish the upper edge (zigzag or overlock) then turn down the allowance and
press. Topstitch from the right side, edge to edge. Turn in the remaining edges, baste and press.
Pin in position, taking account of the markings. Baste if you want and then topstitch all round the pocket, again turning corners carefully with the needle
down in the fabric.
Finish pocket
top edge
Iron a strip of inter-

facing to wrong side
of top edge
Turn down , press

and topstitch.
Make the turning

wider if you like and
do a double fold
Page 7
Join back to fronts at the side seam
Now for the trouser seams. You have a choice here.

If you want the topstitching on the outside seam then
we will join the fronts to the backs at this stage. I’ll
cover the option to have the topstitching on the inside
seam later.
I like to leave the back seam until after the side seam
is stitched as it is easier to do the topstitching.
So right sides together, join the backs to the front,
pin, machine, neaten then press towards the back.
Topstitch the two side seams. Take your time stitching
over the bulky pocket seams. You will need your
denim needle and foot.
Page 8
Now we can stitch our back seam.
So, with right sides together, we are joining Stitch the
the left front/back to the right front/back
back seam
along the back seam. Pin and machine
stitch the back seam. Trim, snip the curve
and neaten. Press the seam to the left.
You can then topstitch this seam, again
being careful stitching over the bulky yoke
seam.
Then spread your jeans, wrong side out
and pin from ankle to ankle. Machine
stitch, neaten and press towards the back
trouser leg.
Topstitch the back seam
Pin,stitch, neaten
the inside seam
Page 9
Now for the waistband. Cut iron-on interfacing the size of the waistband, less the
seam allowance and iron to the wrong side.
Press in half lengthways.
Make the belt loop strip. You will need five belt loops each 4½" long, so cut a strip
about 25" long x 1" wide. The best way to make them is to use a 12mm bias tape
maker. Feed in the tape, press as you go. Then topstitch the strip.
Centre Back
Centre Front
Centre Front
Press lengthways right side out
Centre front Side seam marker Side seam marker Centre front
Front pocket marker Centre back Front pocket marker
Make belt loop strip using a bias tape maker
Pull Iron as you pull out the tape

Page 10
Pin the belt loops, right sides down, to the jeans along the waistline.
One at centre back, then a pair 1" or so from the side seam, then a pair
a 1" or so past the pocket towards centre front.
With wrong sides together, join the waistband to the jeans, matching all
markings. You should have the extension on the right side. Machine
stitch the length of the waistband. You will be fixing the belt loops in
position at the same time.
Line up centre
fronts
Pin the belt loops at Match notches
the waist line
Extension underlap
Page 11
centre front
waistband foldline
Page 12
Trim the seam. This is important here to
remove bulk. Stagger the trimming if you can.
Turn the waistband up and press.
centre front
waistband foldline
Trim each layer of the

seam separately
Page 13
Now we have to stitch the ends of the waistband.
Fold the waistband back on itself and stitch the
ends.
Trim back the seam allowance to remove as much
bulk as possible.
Mitre the ends so that you get a nice sharp turn at
the corner.
Page 14
Turn the waistband through, making sure that you gently ease out the corners for a
nice sharp finish.
You will find it will be easy to get a nice even width waistband because we have a
creased centre line.
Press the inside seam allowance up, making sure the fold just covers the stitching
line and baste in place.
If this garment was a skirt or a ladies style trouser, I would instead trim and finish
this edge without folding it in, then stitch in the ditch, from the right side. This
reduces the bulk. You practically never see this finish though on authentic jeans. So
we are sticking to the authentic look here.
Turn the seam

allowance under
and baste
Page 15
Topstitch along all edges of the waistband.
Stitch slowly over the thick layers.
Topstitch through all

layers.
Page 16
This is the way I like to do my belt loops. Try out your belt
One end is already attached in the waistband throught the loop
seam. The belt loops start out long to give room for
manoeuvre.
Measure your loops against your belt to determine
length.
Firstly anchor the top end by stitching in position on
the inside of the waistband, stitching from the right
side. You are able to do this because of the slack in
the loop.
Then flatten as shown and securely stitch at the
positions shown. Use thread to match your jeans.
Commercially made jeans often use topstitch thread
here but, unless you have a heavy duty sewing
machine, these stitches can be a little uneven
because of the bulk so it’s best not to worry about
how neat these stitches are.
Secure with thread to
Slight exageration in match jeans
length
Page 17
This is the belt loop arrangement for the back. If you have
a machine that does not cope well with layers, place the
back loop to the side of the back seam. It won’t notice.
Page 18
And so to the finish. Add a big brass press stud to
the waistband at the front. (Follow manufacturers
instructions - but here is a tip, use a nail and hammer
with a block of wood beneath, to make the hole. The
supplied hole making gadget never works).
Turn the trouser hem up double and topstitch.
Page 19
You are Finished!
Page 20

948 Jeans Instructions Complete PDF

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Jeans

Pattern Number 948

Patterns for Members

Denim comes in a range of widths - I currently have yardage of 130cm to 160cm.

How Much to Buy?

0.5mtr 1mtr 1.5mtr 2mtr 2.5mtr

Lining You will need:

9. Cut your pocket lining pieces from your lining fabric.

Stay Stich Pocket and Waist

Iron On Fly Interfacing x 2

Discard this piece

Press, pressing seam Iron the second

Left Front Right Front

stitch Press seam tp

Using your zipper foot, with the needle

There are three This is the

Centre of zip approximately

extension Stitch a second

Let the Needle right of

If you could see through the layers

The position of the

Curve your topstitch-

below the dot at the

Centre of zip 3/4”

Using the shortest foot

Fold out of the way

.....or just bar tack

Make a bar tack the inside that will

Your jeans should look something like this on the

There are many other ways to finish and reinforce

Patterns for Members

Quick Construction Run Through

1. Attach the front pockets, complete with topstitching

2. Join the back yokes to the backs and topstitch.

3. Embroider and prepare the back pockets.

4. Stitch back pockets to backs.

5. Join backs to fronts at side seam and topstitch.

6. Join the back seam and topstitch.

7. Join the inside leg seam from ankle to ankle.

8. Attach the waistband, adding belt loops.

9. Add jeans style press stud and rivets if desired.

10. Turn up and topstitch the hem.

These notches we need The pocket and top edge

Machine baste top and side

Pocket Side Front

Pocket Side Front

Start Finish pocket edges

Stitch the two pocket pieces together, keeping

Match notches, pin and

Iron a strip of inter-

Turn down , press

Make the turning

Now for the trouser seams. You have a choice here.

Topstitch the back seam

Press lengthways right side out

Front pocket marker Centre back Front pocket marker

Make belt loop strip using a bias tape maker

Pull Iron as you pull out the tape

Trim each layer of the

Turn the seam

Topstitch through all

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