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Exquisitely
told.’
Wendy Harmer, writer and broadcaster
ANDREW DARBY
List of mapsxi
One Hunting on a no-good shore 1
Two Three letters will do 16
Three Tiny sparks 38
Four The undertone 56
Five The treasure map 69
Six The treasure house 82
Seven Perfectly suited 101
Eight The white bear bird 110
Nine Beringia 136
Ten A portion of their secrets 150
Eleven Now south 165
Twelve A flick of the dragon’s tail 182
Thirteen Lost flocks 203
Fourteen A spoonful of hope 222
Fifteen Navigating the possible 242
Sixteen In harmony with the sun 268
Author’s note 276
Notes 278
Index 316
The birds do not struggle or cry out. Their amazed eyes speak
for them.
Escape? There is no escape. People around them are jubilant,
high-fiving each other.
I take a breath and watch as the catchers begin to disen
tangle the birds from the net. Lai is head down in concentration,
her right hand holds a bird and her nimble left fingers work the
net away from it, feather by feather. It is popped into a linen bag
and disappears before I can properly look at it.
But I know it is a Grey Plover and this, of all birds, is the one
I have come to see.
When it’s over, I ask Lai, reserved and slight, why she has
come all the way from Taiwan to do this.
‘I fell in love with shorebirds from the first time,’ she says.
‘Because they are so tiny, and so strong.’ She pumps her fist.
At low tide, retrieval parties used horse and cart, and later
vehicles, to drive out onto the flat, study a warhead’s impact,
and perhaps pick up remains.
Use of the proof range brought the first government
acknowledgement of the existence of shorebirds in the upper
gulf, though an official hand waved away any effects on their
survival. Plans to enlarge the range for bigger and better explo-
sions forced an environmental assessment. It was guessed that
wildlife was not affected, and anyway: ‘in time it is thought
that the birds would adjust to the noise’. I am left to imagine
how many birds learned to recognise the incoming whistle of
bombardment and flee the danger, or instead disappeared in a
sudden explosion of shrapnel, sand and water.
The range is still sometimes used for weapons testing but an
expansion of its impact zone that would have razed 189 houses
in coastal holiday-shack enclaves was rejected. That same
decision gave a green light to a new subdivision at a place called
Thompson Beach.
Hunched on a low dune between samphire marshland and
wind-breaking scrub, Thompson Beach’s houses raise them-
selves just high enough to cool down, and for people to be able
to look through their living-room windows across the tidal flat
and into the gulf.
To Australians used to ocean and surf, this is not the greatest
coastal real estate. But generations have taken refuge or holidays
in these off-track communities, and the hardscrabble shore has
its enthusiasts. ‘Thompson Beach. The Place To Be Beside The
Sea. Because It’s On The Coast That Has The Most’ says a
T-shirt. Sunsets across the gulf really do blaze the wide sky in
dramatic reds and purples; otherwise there seems to be little to
back this happy belief.
was told by a tribunal it had to live with much lower limits. Ulti-
mately, according to Christie, the group’s twenty-year shorebird
record was vital in achieving this protection by the tribunal.
Number-counting won, and this gave me my first lesson of shore-
bird research. As Christie says: ‘It requires good data to succeed.’
When the catching team first came to Gulf St Vincent they
spent long days working the shore, chasing Red Knot and then
godwit. ‘It’s the hardest place I’ve ever tried in the world to catch
and band shorebirds,’ Minton says. ‘We could not catch more
than one Red Knot, having tried for three years. We could not
catch more than ten or twelve Bar-tailed Godwits.
‘That was partly because the birds are extremely ephemeral.
Here today and gone tomorrow. But the thing is, most of our
catching is usually done when the birds are flooded off the flats by
a spring tide and settle on a beach above the high-tide mark. What
you’ve got in the gulf is great “wodges” of seagrass, hundreds of
metres in diameter, which the birds can use as islands. So you
can’t do your normal process of setting a net to catch them.’
Accustomed to catching hundreds of birds on a single day,
Minton’s team came up with just 134 birds in four years of
Thompson Beach expeditions.
Flaherty’s aim was to have an international bird sanctuary
proclaimed along the coast north of Adelaide; but to achieve
this politically, he needed the team to identify an actual inter-
national bird. Then a godwit marked at Thompson Beach in
November 2012 was photographed at Nanpu, China, in April
2013, and back at Thompson Beach in 2014. Flaherty had his
catch, his ‘story bird’.
‘That clicked with a lot of local people, to be able to see this
bird that had just come from their beach,’ Flaherty says. ‘You
can go on until the cows come home about migratory shorebirds
and how far they travel. But to get a plot of a local bird up to
China and onwards, for me that’s awareness.’
Buoyed by this, the group hatched a much greater ambition:
to use satellite tags to track some gulf shorebirds in near real
time as they migrated. If this worked, it would give people a
chance to travel ‘with’ the birds.
This is a great compulsion for people who band migratory
birds: to bring tracks to life. They discover the birds’ powers
on odysseys that may traverse hemispheres over months; how
they endure the physical costs of long distance flight, and avoid
predators; what lies behind this other-worldly miracle of a single
bird making its way through waypoints, ‘home’ to a breeding
ground to renew its line and then back to where it started. If it
all works, they are drawing lines of global ecology, ‘flight lines’
across the earth.