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Surface Design Techniques and Embellishments for Sustainable Leather Products

Conference Paper · February 2017

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Harshita Dhingra Aravendan Muthusamy

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Surface Design Techniques and Embellishments


for Sustainable Leather Products Poster
Harshita Dhingra1, Aravendan Muthusamy2
No.
1. Design Student- B. Des.(Leather Design), 2. Associate Professor-Design & UI-IPR
IULTCS XXXIV Department of Leather Design (Footwear & Products)
DIP - 03
2017 INDIA National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai
1. haruu156@gmail.com, 2. aravendan.muthusamy@nift.ac.in

ABSTRACT APPLICATION OF TECHNIQUES DESIGNERS’ CASE STUDIES


India has the largest number of livestock in the world. Since i. Leather Mosaic
several years particularly from 80s, manufacturing of Leathers, Case Study-1: Precious Skin - Victoria Ledig
A mosaic is a piece of art or wood made from the Precious skin is a unique collection of handbag made from unusual
Leather products and Footwear have become a major
assemblage of small pieces of colored glass , cow body parts considered as waste. Victoria Ledig in her dedication
contribution to the world economy. In today’s era leather
stone or other materials .It is often used in to her graduation project at Dutch design academy at Eindhoven, got
industry is undergoing a complete change through modern
decorative art or interior decoration , made from fascinated with leather as a material while she was doing her
leather processing techniques, where sustainability has
small , flat , roughly square , pieces of stone or internship in ECCO Leathers, in the design department of a tannery in
crawled in every field and aspect of life. As known, the natural
glass of different colors , known as tesserae. dungeon in the Netherlands. She started with the keen observation at
animal skin or hide undergoes various chemical processes and
Leather are generally made by two techniques -: the ECCO tannery that the only skin from the torso of the cow is used
mechanical operations to be converted into fine leather. Being
Appliqué – pieces from leather scraps are cut and in the leather industry visit to slaughter house she saw how the left out
made from the natural material and also due to the influence of
sewn onto the category product. animal skin is wasted. Satisfied with the process, Victoria procured
mechanical, chemical and physical treatments a remarkable
Reverse appliqué – A sewing craft in which the skin from cow’s ear, face, tail and hooves that are discarded from the
portion of the materials gets defected during the conversion.
outline is cut from the top layer and stitched leather production. She started with the tanning of various parts into
These defected materials are rated as poor selections and
underneath it. the tanning drums and ended up with beautiful vegetable tanned
rejections and are disposed as wastes or sold for very lower
prices. Up gradation of these defected and waste leathers can leather pieces. The dried leather was beautifully converted into a
help in reducing the waste and resulting in the efficient collection of bags its simply portrays the leather of all the
utilization of unused leather. In this context, the researchers imperfections and texture in the different skins.
present this work which deals with the up-gradation of leathers
that can be achieved through different design techniques,
decorations and surface finishing’s on these faulted leathers.
Surface design techniques and embellishments like appliqué,
crochet, knitting, typography and pyrography with design ii. Pyrography
concepts to combine leather with eco – friendly fabric like jute , It is the art of decorating wood or other material
denim , cotton and canvas , which can hide these defects on like leather with burn marks resulting from the Case Study-2: Recycling Leather Scraps-Jorge
the lower selections and rejected leathers. These upgraded controlled application of a heated object such as a
materials are then applied for designing of leather products and poker or soldering rod which is heated for four to Penades
five minutes. Structural skin is a self produced material made out of the leftovers
life style fashion accessories with the standardization of quality
and off cuts from the leather industry. Spanish designer Jorge
and providing value addition to final leather products to ensure
Penades came up with a new way to recycle leather, he discovered
sustainability in leather product development and marketing
this during his trip to Japan in 2014, this piece is inspired by boro – a
them as commercially affordable products.
traditional Japanese folk textile .These fabric represents two essential
principles of Japanese culture ; motttainai a term that conveys a deep
INTRODUCTION sense of regret concerning waste and Boroboro that celebrates the
beauty in something frayed, decayed or repaired. Penades
The Indian leather industry has a huge domestic market and accommodated his new concept through structural skin in which he
also great potential for exports; it holds a noticeable position in wanted to come up with a new way to recycle leather after becoming
iii. Crochet aware of the amount of the leftover material from the car, fashion,
the Indian economy .Finished leather products are known for
Crochet is a process of creating fabric by
their royalty and neatness. The issue of sustainability has shoe and furniture industries. Penades has constructed the leather
interlocking loops of yarn, thread or strands of
gained considerable attention among leather industry scraps into strong bars which are transformed into pieces of useful
other materials using a crochet hook. The word
customers, consumers and the community at large. As the furniture like dumb valets and small tables
crochet means small hook. Originated from
world is becoming globally sustainable and eco – friendly
Europe it is a species of knitting. Crochets from
leather industry has also become leather conscious. This paper
leather thongs are in trend due to the flexibility of
acknowledges about different ways how leather products can
this material.
be sustainably designed, it focuses on different designs
techniques, value addition and surface embellishments on
leather. Craft techniques like leather mosaic, crochets, knitting,
appliqué, reverse appliqué and leather combining's can give
leather a new life .Surface development techniques and value
addition helps in upgrading the rejected leathers and reusing
RESULTS & DISCUSSION
leather scraps. Surface design technique and embellishments on leather products
can increase the sustainability of leather industry which is a
iv. Leather Knitting important issue. Repurposing and recycling leather scraps
RESEARCH OBJECTIVES It is a method of manipulating yarns. Knitting
increases the sustainability of leather and makes it more
creates multiple loops of yarns. Needles and
Sustainability is becoming an increasingly important issue in ecofriendly, techniques like leather mosaic , crochet , pyrography
cables are used for knitting they can be from 10 to
the leather industry. Present innovations in leather production and leather combining are embellishments with are affordable within
15 inches. Knitting is a technique for producing a
must bring economic interest, economical soundness and cheap cost. Knowledgeable design research of designers like
two-dimensional fabric made from a one-
consumer benefit into line. Achieving this balance and turning Victoria Ledig and Jorge Penades proves leather as a material with
dimensional yarn or thread. In weaving, threads
into valuable asset needs expert skill and labour. The main lots of potential and competitive surface material .Using methods
are always straight, running parallel either
objectives focused in this paper are: like vegetable tanning and materials like resins which cost low
lengthwise or crosswise
•Studying and presenting the feasible surface design environmental impact make leather more reliable and eco friendly.
techniques and their applications in repurposing scrap leathers Many leather industries are working with these designers to make
and upgrading the rejected skins. leather a sustainable element.
•Presenting the feasible commercial applications and products,
using the techniques like leather mosaic, crochet, leather CONCLUSION
combining and pyrography to reuse leather scraps. Leather is a beautiful and antique material to experiment with; being
a neutral palette material still it allows the industry to play with
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY & different techniques on it due to the flexible collagen fibers in this
v. Leather Combining
IMPLEMENTATION If natural fabrics are mixed with leather they give
durable material. Leather can be value addition with various
finishing's. This paper was a very interesting era which gives you a
Leather products now have entered in global fashion world and a classic to formal look. Mixing leather with
opportunity to learn more about the characteristics of interesting
lifestyle of every individual .Leather scraps and leather from old natural fabrics like cotton , canvas , velvet and
material like leather .Leather forecasting gives a positive welcome
bags can be used in various creative ways ways as denims not only gives it a different shape , cut
to this material in coming years. Due to various embellishments and
embellishments on another products and can be repurposed to texture but royalty also .Cut out from leather
value additions on leather it can survive with second life, with this
make essential items. Lifetime use of leather not only proves its scraps can be used to make these mixings.
kind of specialty leather has almost entered as a sustainable
durability but sustainability too. This research work adopts the material
exploratory and descriptive research methods where an
extensive study is carried out by referring the past researches ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
and literatures dealt with the strategies of reusing leathers and The researchers thank the Director of NIFT Chennai and the Dept.
various techniques applied for the repurposing of the leathers. of Leather Design for encouraging and providing required
Secondary data were collected, analyzed and interpreted with permissions to carry out this research work. The authors also thank
case study examples of how surface design techniques are the Congress organizers and various committees of IULTCS 2017
explored for reusing and repurposing the leather scraps. for the opportunity given to present the work in this international
congress.
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