Overhauling The Studebaker Flightomatic Gearbox

Overhauling the Studebaker Flightomatic … search
Classic Flipcard Magazine Mosaic Sidebar Snapshot Timeslide
5th January 2014

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Overhauling the Studebaker 'Flightomatic' Transmission

(Warner Type 8 Small Iron Case)
An Amateurs Guide- By Steve Winzar
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Many, many years ago I acquired my 1961 Studebaker Hawk with every intention to restore it after a 12 month
period of driving before the registration ran out. Unfortunately life itself gets in the way and keeps you from these
muttered oaths and the car sits forlorn- waiting and deteriorating (you know- courtship, marriage, mortgage,
divorce, military reserve service, competitive sports Re-marriage, divorce (!), etc ad infinitum….).
Finally a time arrives whence the burning desire to do something with that Stude and fiscal improvement reach a
nexus and away we go!
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In my case I’m rebuilding the Hawk from virtually nuts and bolts- part numbers, from the chassis upward. These
Overhauling the Studebaker Flightomatic
parts have languished since 1978. The car drove, albeit in a decrepit state, butsearch
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it went and seemed reliable
enough. The Automatic transmission was a go-er and appeared to operate well despite the inevitable external
fluid leaks to be constantly mopped / topped up, but there is no way will I put this transmission back into service
Classic as
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it is. Magazine Mosaic Sidebar Snapshot Timeslide
My intention was to -
1. ‘Freshen-up’ the seals and ‘O’ rings that had deteriorated over time
2. Inspect all parts for condition and viability for re-use
3. Ascertain bearing clearances and assess suitability for re-use or replacement
4. Ascertain availability of parts required
5. Return the Transmission to service in a leak free, reliable state
In stripping down this transmission I took the opportunity to take many photographs in order to be able to better
visualize their correct installation and service- to prevent those “where does this thing go? Geez, I thought I
could remember” situations when memories lapse. I found the various shop manuals really useful but clear
photos are invaluable. On the way, I came across a number of articles alluding to the history and ‘lineage’ of the
‘Small iron case- type 8’ transmission . These are well worth reading and downloading for further reference and I
commend these to you.....
Number one- The Studebaker Shop manual is actually very good
"What the Shop manual won't tell you about rebuilding a Borg-Warner model 8 automatic transmission" by Stan
Gundry & John Metzker", posted on Bob Johnstones Studebaker resource portal. This is a highly recommended
read! Do it before you start anything...
http://www.studebaker-info.org/TW/tw0785/TW0785p25/tw0785pp25.html
http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/transmission/matmstu/matmstu.html
This is a manual posted on Bob Johnstones Studebaker resource portal and is a
most valuable publication.
Another Manual on Bob's website- the '1960 Motor Manual' publication...

http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/transmission/mm60fom/mm60FOM.html
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/graphics/Catalog-pdf/FMX.pdf
This is an exploded view of a Borg Warner FMX which shows very clear diagrams of the parts. Yes, I know it's
not exactly the same, but it shares a lineage to the 'Type 8' and is a handy reference.
Article on 'Powershift Transmission' http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/transmission/FMX/fmx2.html
Interesting articles dealing with Flightomatics, et al http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/1stgearst.txt
A most worthy read- 'The Flightomatic- with apologies to absolutely no one, by George L Hamlin'
(Turning Wheels March 2006), Was on the internet but unfortunately has been removed.
PARTS SUPPLIERS (USA)

Antique Transmission Parts, AKA Vintage Automatic Transmission Parts
http://www.autotran.us
Fatsco Transmission Parts, New Jersey www.fatsco.net
[https://www.blogger.com/null]
The aim of this article is to help the total novice step their way through a similar overhaul situation. I am not an
Automatic Transmission specialist nor pretend to be- I am an engineering tradesman, however, and competent
with the associated tools and methodologies. I would suggest that most people following the shop manuals and
my photographic records would be able to overhaul
Dynamic theirPowered
Views theme. Flightomatic or at least feel comfortable to treat it as a
by Blogger.
learning experience, disassemble it for cleanup and opt for reassembly by a professional, perhaps.

I'd also advise that I have not provided any information regarding the replacementsearch
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of bushes and bearings with
exception of one in the Front Pump and another in the Extension Housing. In my case I measured all bearings
and journals and considered it fit for the limited duty I have in mind. As I live in Australia, rebuild kits for these
Classic transmissions
Flipcard Magazine Mosaic
are available Sidebar
but not Snapshot
the bearings Timeslide
and bushes. These however are available from sources in the
USA. If you wish to replace these items then by all means do the research and obtain the parts.
As such, I take no responsibility for any adverse outcomes resulting from the use of this information.
So, let’s get into it! I suggest you obtain a number of sturdy plastic bags and suitable boxes to retain parts within
their sub-assemblies....
The overhaul kit for this task is sourced as "a repair kit for a Warner type 8 small Iron Case". I live in Australia and I
obtained one from Wholesale Automatic Transmission, Bayswater, Melbourne Victoria. I asked if they had Friction Discs
if I needed them and they confirmed that they did, but these are no longer made of Bronze. They could not supply any of
the whitemetal bearings- These will be available from 'Antique Transmission Parts, AKA Vintage Automatic Transmission
Parts' in the USA. I believe that the Center Support Bearing is available from 'Studebaker International'.
I ordered a Seals and Gasket Kit and a Thrust Washer- cost including tax and postage was $150. I chose to buy off-the-
shelf Phosphor Bronze Bushes and machine these to suit the Extension Housing Slip Joint bearing and the Front Pump
nose. ( I could have purchased the latter along with my Kit at a very reasonable cost in actual fact). I spent an awful long
time accurately measuring every Bearing and journal in my Transmission to see if any of these needed replacing. By and
large, these appeared to be quite serviceable. The only issue I pondered over was the Center Support Bearing. This part
appeared to have quite a bit of running clearance and still had its original machining marks. It appeared to be worn a bit
on the bottom. All in all I just decided that I'd mount 60 degrees away from its original position and let it suffice. This part
receives full pressure lubrication so the clearances must be OK, I guess. This car is not intended to be a daily driver- I
just need it to go for now! I also spent a bit of time actually measuring the 'O' rings. Apart from a couple of the odd
shaped sections- the vast majority of these ought to be available individually. A list is included at the end of this Blog and
includes the dimensions.
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The transmission ought to have been removed from the car and washed down using a pressure washer, kerosene
etc. Drain the fluid if you have not already done so It will appear like this when the pan is removed. This one has
been drained for years in storage and is clean in appearance. It was never washed internally so everything is still
oily which has prevented rusting and sticking valves.
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Remove the Retainer Clip and Intake Screen. The long tube shown here can be gently pulled away from the
Rear Pump Outlet and the Pressure Regulator valve.
The above photo shows the two intakes, from the Pressure Valve, and the Rear Pump.
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Pull the two tubes between the Pressure Regulator and the Control Valve.
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These tubes should lift out easily and not require much force. Alternately, to allow you some knuckle room,
you can unclip the spring retainer at the top of the Oil Pressure Regulator first. Make sure you collect the
tubular guides inside the springs and note their differences. Unbolt the Control Valve and store it
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Reassemble and store these parts. Unless you have had trouble with the pressure regulator valve, you need
not disassemble it.
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You can now remove the Control Valve. This will have two straight tubes connecting it to the rear servo. To
facilitate removal, align the manual shift lever as shown above so the valve spools will not foul. Loosen off the two
bolts that secure the Rear Servo as well....Dynamic Views theme. Powered by Blogger.
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IIn doing this the connecting tubes will not be stressed as you lift out the Control Valve.
Undo the bolts securing the Control Valve in the case and lift it away.
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Remove the Rear Servo. Note the innermost bolt is a special one- it is responsible for securing the Center Support
Bearing as well.
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Remove the Front Servo and its Operating Link. This might fall into the case but it's easily retrieved. In this photo
I'm indicating where the Link engages with the Front Band.
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The front Servo with its tubes and Link after removal.
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Remove the rear oil pump suction and return tubes. The long one is easy but the one above it, embedded flush in
the case can be removed by inserting a little finger in there and pulling (not so easy if the seals are newer).

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Retrieve the Rear Band Adjuster link. It may have fallen into the case but it normally sits on the round ball-end of
the Adjuster Screw, seen in this picture.
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It’s worth inspecting the links and operation of the parking pawl. Unless you're having issues with its operation its
best left as-is. Note the dimple in the rear band for reassembly purposes.
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Remove the Extension Housing.

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Pull away the Rear Pump and Output Shaft.
Note:- both Aluminium Oil Pipes (intake from the Strainer and the return oil) must be removed from the case
before this step.
Be careful not to damage the three oil pipes to the Oil Distributor
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This is the Thrust washer that is located between the output Shaft Gear and the Planetary gear.

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Remove the Planetary Gear set. The gears will need to be allowed to turn, so watch your fingers.
The Sun Gear shaft will possibly come out with the Planetary gear and Rear Clutch Drum because it is likely the
small seal rings on the end of the shaft will snag during removal. This is nonot a problem. The rings can be
compressed slightly with the aid of a small screwdriver as the shshaft is pulled out of the gear set.
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This is the Thrust Washer that is positioned in the Planetary Gear set. Note the scalloped cuts on its periphery to
allow it to fit down between the gears
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This shot shows the Sun Gear Shaft in place although pulled out slightly. There is a black Bakelite thrust washer in
between those two gears but it’s not shown clearly here. Squeeze the ends of the Rear Band together and it can
be removed from the rear of the Case.
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The rear band has 1/16” or 2.5mm of lining on it so I will be re-using this part.
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Be careful you don’t lose the Parking Pawl Shaft- it’s got a habit of falling out easily.

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The Center Support Bearing can be removed now. Undo the two screws on the upper sides of the case, You need
not remove these as per the picture- just back these off sufficiently and pull out the Center Support Bearing.
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Remove the Front Clutch Drum and Sun Gear: Take note of the Thrust washer and Bearing Plate.

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The Front band can be maneuvered out through the bottom of the Case
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Remove the Front Oil Pump from the Case. The seal / O ring under this part can be removed and discarded. The
pump can be dismantled for inspection by undoing the screws underneath the pump. Do this out of curiosity, by all
means, but these units generally have little problems and will most likely be in good condition.

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The Front Clutch and Pump Input Shaft can be withdrawn through the rear of the case. Note the thrust washer.
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The Parking Pawl and associated linkages (lower left) are best left alone unless you have had problems with
these in operation or they are actually needing attention. The Manual Downshift Linkage and Throttle Control
Linkage (lower right) can be removed more easily after the other internals been have taken out.
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NOTE:- There is a detent ball and spring under the Manual Selector mechanism. This will be forcefully ejected if
you don't take care to control it during disassembly. Getting it back in there is actually easier than you might be
thinking!

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Remove the Manual Control Shafts. There is a seal in the side of the case here- carefully prise it out and discard it.
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Manual Shift Linkage and Throttle Control Linkage assembly removed showing some associated parts and seals.
These seals are responsible for a lot of the mopping-up and fluid replacement in these transmissions. Replace
these seals. Ensure the one that goes in the side of the Casing is driven in squarely and not distorted.
Re insert the shafts. In the picture below, Use the hole in a 12"/300mm steel rule to retain the Detent Ball in place
against its spring and push it down firmly. Whilst it is held down, you can place the Selector on the shaft as shown.
Once this is accomplished the rule is simply slid out and the ball engages against the Selector. Finish the job by
tightening the nut.
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WHAT NOW....?
At this stage the casing is stripped down sufficiently. It can be wiped down to remove dirty oil but ensure you keep
lint out of it. Service of the Clutches, Servos and other parts can commence.
You can service each section in any order but it is important that you retain all of the relevant parts within their
groupings. I placed valves and servos and their relevant bolts in small cardboard boxes. Clutch drums, shafts and
relevant thrust washers went into plastic bags. These parts were left assembled ‘as-was’ until their turn to be torn
Overhauling the Studebaker Flightomatic …

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FRONT CLUTCH DRUM SERVICING
Classic Remove
FlipcardandMagazine Mosaic
store the Thrust Sidebar
washer. Prise theSnapshot
large CirclipTimeslide
out of its groove using a flat tipped screwdriver to lift
it.
end. Lift off the input shaft.
The Input
Shaft can
be lifted
off.
Note the
black
Bakelite
thrust
washer
between
the flange
of the
input shaft
flange and
Clutch
Hub in the
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If you lift out the Hub, you will see all the splines on the discs lined up, the Diaphragm spring at the bottom and
the round steel ring that the Diaphragm pivots off. This ring is called an 'O' Ring in the manuals (?..)

hYZCotLr0J0/UuJZbvoBunI/AAAAAAAAAVg/LgttxqqQFWQ/s1600/DSC02235.JPG] The Clutch discs are alternated as

friction material (in this case the old Bronze type) and steel....
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This heavier ring is the Pressure Plate which is positioned on top of the Diaphragm spring and can be seen once
the Clutch plates are removed. The annular line where the rounded part of the Plate bears upon the Spring is a
hint as to which way up this part is inserted.
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Clutch Discs and Pressure Plate gone, you can see how the Diaphragm Spring is situated - the Steel 'O' ring and
the top of the Clutch Piston. Imperceptible in the photo, the Diaphragm Spring is also 'dish-down'.
What is not shown here, however, is a thicker Large Snap Ring retaining the Diaphragm Spring. It fits into the
groove you can see just above the periphery of the Diaphragm. It is slightly more fiddly to remove but the
procedure is similar to the top one.Simply lift these out. On removal, have a good look at both of these and ensure

you are aware of their differences.Note the Diaphragm spring goes in dished-down, also.
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If the peripheral seal on the Piston as an old one you will probably just pull it out but if not you might have to blow
it out by applying compressed air to the port on the other side as per the Manuals. You can discard this 'O' ring.
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Remove the 'O' Ring from the nose of the Clutch Drum- This old one was so brittle it broke easily.
These parts can be cleaned up and checked for defects. I decided to utilise the Clutch discs again because they
looked fine with no burning or loss of dishing. Bronze replacement discs are not available any more and are now
more like fibre material.
The Pressure Plate is on the bottom, followed by friction material, then Steel, alternating upward until you finish the
stack with friction material on top.
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The new parts are assembled with, petroleum jelly (Vaseline) lubricating the seals and thrust washers. I added a
light smear to each of the clutch plates as well.
N.B. As a matter of fact, lubricate all surfaces with a smear of Petroleum Jelly because his also helps prevent

rusting whilst in storage. This is best accomplished using a small paintbrush dipped in the stuff. (just ensure you
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don't leave any bristles in there). If you wish to use transmission fluid instead, I hope you are intending to use the
transmission immediately because the stuff will run off.
Classic Take care in Magazine
Flipcard when pressing parts together
Mosaic so that
Sidebar 'O' rings are
Snapshot not damaged in the process.
Timeslide
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Place the thrust washer centrally on the Hub. Place the Input shaft over the Clutch and install the Snap ring and
thrust washer. Plastic bag the assembly for storage. A little transmission oil or petroleum jelly smeared all over the
assembly helps reduce the likelihood of corrosion.
qP91UjHv51g/UuJeYrWWXXI/AAAAAAAAAVw/E6ZVls4g230/s1600/DSC02315.JPG]
REAR CLUTCH DRUM SERVICING
.This is a bit more involved than the Front Drum. Initially you will be presented with the Bronze thrust washer and a
steel bearing plate, which you can take straight off. Note the two 'flats' on the inside diameter that locate the steel
bearing plate, and which way it goes up.

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The Sun Gear Shaft will need to be pulled from the Rear Clutch Drum hub. As you withdraw it, the small Sealing
Rings may catch at the entrance of the Drum's bore. These may be compressed slightly by pinching the ends
together as you withdraw the Shaft- I used the tip of a small flat-bladed screwdriver for this. There is a black
Bakelite Thrust Washer up against the inner surface of the Sun Gear- ensure you retain it. It is shown in the
picture above, still in place against the Sun Gear.
Note:- There is a needle roller bearing inside the hub- Ensure you don't lose any rollers when you withdraw the
shaft or later, during storage. A wipe of Petroleum Jelly over the rollers and storage of the whole assembly in a
plastic bag is helpful in this regard.
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The sealing Rings on the Sun Gear Shaft must be replaced and when you buy your repair kit, a quantity of these

will be included. The old ones can be expanded with your fingertips enough for them to pass over the shaft and
away. Ensure you place the correct ring in the corresponding grooves.
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Flipcard Magazine Mosaic Sidebar Snapshot Timeslide
This is where it gets more tricky.....
The Clutch Release (coil) Spring at the center needs to be compressed before the Circlip at the nose of the Hub
can be removed to allow the spring to be gradually released under control. In the Warner Gear Manual there is a
picture of a special tool (J-5885-01) to facilitate this, but I doubt whether the average bloke will get hold of this. I
came up with the following arrangement which worked very nicely given due caution. The solution utilised some
strips of square steel bar intersposed between the Clutch Release Spring Retainer and the unit's own Pressure
Plate (reversed, and placed back into the Drum). The whole arrangement can be compressed steadily and equally
using two G clamps as seen in the picture. Originally I used three bars of steel and three clamps, but removing the
Snap Ring was made more difficult due to the clutter. In the event, the arrangement worked quite nicely but I must
advise the use of caution because you don't want anything slipping off under compression!
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II strongly advise the use of a good pair of decent sized external circlip pliers to remove the stout Snap Ring at the
hub. Very little else can be substituted for this tool. Mine were a bit rounded over at the tips so I had to 'doctor'
them so they wouldn't keep slipping off. With the Clip removed the Spring and Retainer Plate can be taken out.
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The next picture shows all of the Rear Clutch internals removed. The large Aluminium Piston sits at the very
bottom. It is inserted as it is shown- with the oblong grooves facing upward. You will also see here that the clutch
discs for this Drum are different from the Front Drum. A steel ring is placed over the piston and a Friction ring
placed next, alternating steel and bronze (in this case). The heavier Clutch Plate sits atop the rest, as shown here.

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IIf you look at the Hub, you will see an 'O' Ring seal. Once again, this can be removed and replaced.
The Drum has a needle roller bearing inside the hub. Have a good look at it and the corresponding area on the
Sun Gear Shaft where it runs. Ensure there is no galling or obvious wear in these places. Smear a little Petroleum
Jelly in there to help retain the rollers and keep an eye on them during overhaul.
Ensure the drum is not cracked or worn. Wipe down and bag it for storage.
Replace the Rubber 'O' rings on the Hub nose and the Aluminium Clutch Piston.Once again, exercise care when
reinstalling these and lubricate with petroleum jelly.
Examine the Clutch Discs and decide on whether you can reuse these or replace them.These go into the Drum
'Dish down'. Assembly is the reverse procedure. I suggest you assemble the Clutch Release Spring and
associated parts first. This will necessitate using the 'G' clamps and bars as shown in the preceeding picture to
gradually compress the spring and to allow installation of the Snap Ring. Once again- exercise caution.
The picture below shows the thrust washer and Bearing Plate in place but these can actually be added much later
on. The Clutch Piston is inserted as shown, followed by a steel Clutch Plate. The Clutch plates are inserted
alternating steel, bronze (friction material), steel and so on...
[http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0PI4Lxpw33M/UvbSW9kD2HI/AAAAAAAAAYU/I90Qup_NdL4/s1600/DSC02322.JPG]
Insert the Pressure plate as shown, with the flat side toward the Clutch Plates

Wj4bakjg8s4/UuXptOOGX_I/AAAAAAAAAXY/5HMGycgiZQM/s1600/DSC02324.JPG]
Reinstall the Snap ring and you're done. Bag this assembly for storage.
mhCpZtgOOt0/UuX__P0HBsI/AAAAAAAAAX4/He7QXPQHPDA/s1600/DSC02335.JPG]
[http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BGJmW_j_Zs8/UuG41paBUoI/AAAAAAAAAUI/WBR38VU6XVE/s1600/DSC02233.JPG]
SERVICING THE REAR SERVO
In order to disassemble this Servo, it is necessary to first remove the Actuating Lever. This component rotates on
needle rollers and a shaft held within the Arm. The Needles are also enclosed between two steel shim Retainers
positioned either side of the Arm. Exercise care when disassembling these and ensure the needle rollers are not
lost. Start by using a pin punch to drive out the 'C' lock pin- this need not be driven completely out, just enough to
release the Shaft as shown here. Withdraw the shaft. Needle rollers may also fall out at this time.
pnv652UZwOA/UvbcdFzDQHI/AAAAAAAAAZo/JKPEL8dWdGM/s1600/DSC02348.JPG]
This picture shows the Actuating arm, Shaft, Needle Rollers and Retainers. The Retainers are placed either side
the arm during reassembly. Bag these parts and ensure rollers are not lost.
[http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2pYNKCh7_J0/UvbcCOY7kMI/AAAAAAAAAYg/cw5fRFdLzjE/s1600/DSC02332.JPG]
mJFSK3S1jcM/UvbcVR0ZUpI/AAAAAAAAAY8/s62wAxDlSlc/s1600/DSC02338.JPG]
Use a 'G' Clamp to compress the Piston Very slightly. This will permit easier removal of the Snap Ring
[http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P4kn-
IcHc_4/UvbcYsWb1qI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/AGQzK9QPkRM/s1600/DSC02343.JPG]
Release the clamp gradually and the Cover and internal coil spring can be removed

[http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FJd6BROoSBo/UvbcXOdJ-
jI/AAAAAAAAAZI/hPMbual6XNo/s1600/DSC02341.JPG]
Pull out the Piston and Accumulator. The Accumulator can be disassembled by removing the Snap ring at the top
of the piston. Note:- There is a hefty spring in there so you might want to employ a small clamp to facilitate its
retention whilst the clip is removed.
[http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0BxJvFp1GQY/UvbcTG3V6NI/AAAAAAAAAY0/vRqZyg8oVjE/s1600/DSC02336.JPG]
[http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P4kn-IcHc_4/UvbcYsWb1qI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/AGQzK9QPkRM/s1600/DSC02343.JPG]
All the parts laid out. Note the special bolt (pointed end) that retains the transmission Center Bearing as well as
the Servo. Clean the parts and Install a new 'O' ring on the Piston. Check the bore of the Actuating Arm for
Brinelling/galling from the Needle rollers. Mine has some marking in there but I've decided to ignore this and press
it back into service. If you intend on driving your car very often or every day, you might wish to replace or otherwise
rectify this.
oLVZZPx1aok/UtfRVqkreFI/AAAAAAAAASI/jsjVDIHC5Pk/s1600/DSC02231.JPG]
Lubricate all parts with Petroleum Jelly. Re install the Accumulator into the Servo Piston and insert it carefully into
the bore until it bottoms. Install the Coil Spring and Cover - retain with a 'G' clamp whilst the Snap Ring is placed.
[http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sGR7q-
1Cq4U/UvbcVWbX8BI/AAAAAAAAAZA/pPoMK1O8JIg/s1600/DSC02337.JPG]
mJFSK3S1jcM/UvbcVR0ZUpI/AAAAAAAAAY8/s62wAxDlSlc/s1600/DSC02338.JPG]
NOW STOP... Try as you may to insert the Actuating Arm, plus Shaft plus Needle Rollers, You will find this
incredibly frustrating. No matter how much Petroleum Jelly you use to retain the whole shebang , when you try to
insert the Shaft, the rollers will go everywhere....
[http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-drJ-
uO2SYrI/UvbcaAJcBEI/AAAAAAAAAZY/OQp9HVsOnqI/s1600/DSC02344.JPG]
Make up a 'dummy shaft' that has a diameter big enough to retain the rollers inside the Arm and just long enough
to accommodate the Retainers either side of the Arm. I made mine from a piece of mild steel round bar machined
down on a lathe to the same size as the real Shaft and faced-off to length. I imagine that this could be made with a
suitable piece of wooden dowel whittled down to size if you cannot access a lathe. This arrangement is shown
below. The whole thing can be lubricated and then placed in the clevis as shown....

rqvPozmerqw/UvbcbrhZViI/AAAAAAAAAZg/mzGStf9hS2w/s1600/DSC02346.JPG]
Line up the 'dummy shaft' in the clevis bore. Take the real Shaft and push it past the first retainer, up against the
dummy and through the rollers. You push the 'dummy shaft' clear through the Arm and out the other side, leaving
the real Shaft in place with rollers intact and inside the Arm. The one thing you need to do initially is to ensure the
Lock Pin holes will end up aligned. The picture below shows the assembly installed successfully and the 'Dummy
Shaft' I used.
D5_UJW3kCfU/UvbcfDhgY8I/AAAAAAAAAZw/tVMA9q-J74w/s1600/DSC02350.JPG]
[http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rqvPozmerqw/UvbcbrhZViI/AAAAAAAAAZg/mzGStf9hS2w/s1600/DSC02346.JPG]
SERVICING THE FRONT SERVO
Collect the Operating Link, Oil supply Tubes and fastening bolt. Store these.
JBRjgJmRtQM/Uvbe8M8JEhI/AAAAAAAAAas/ZUQjltSNFC8/s1600/DSC02245.JPG]

Clamp the assembly together and remove the Snap Ring retaining the Servo Guide. Withdraw the Guide, the

Servo Piston, and Spring. With old seals these parts come out easily. If the don't come out, these might need to be
blown out by applying Compressed air to the inlet pipe hole
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[http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IPiwrSMv-
8I/Uvbe95K6kuI/AAAAAAAAAa4/Li9-FGIQeRQ/s1600/DSC02246.JPG]
All parts arranged below showing new 'O 'rings for installation. did not remove the actuation lever as it did not
manifest any looseness or other defects.
VCoMPEk2WcI/UvbcgcZ8vGI/AAAAAAAAAZ8/khUsQ-Xqnf8/s1600/DSC02351.JPG]
This picture shows the Piston as it was withdrawn. Note the flattening of the old 'O' ring seal
nUKC8m7plk0/Uvbe_SlyAtI/AAAAAAAAAbA/DRNsW5g8oWM/s1600/DSC02247.JPG]
This picture shows the 'oddest' seal in the transmission and is likely to be the only on you might not obtain over the
counter at your local bearing and seal supplier. it is a thin flat washer that seals the outer rim of the Servo Piston
Guide. All the other rubber (Nitrile) 'O'rings could be bought over the counter individually. but I daresay the best
option is to buy the actual overhaul 'kit'.
dVHozjKSFEQ/UvbfE3dAstI/AAAAAAAAAbg/WvRlrW-wJBk/s1600/DSC02251.JPG]
[http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rNxS0AOFJvQ/UvbchyioZuI/AAAAAAAAAaE/RgGK1ngyfwI/s1600/DSC02356.JPG]
After cleanup, this picture shows the arrangement of Spring, Servo Piston, and Piston Guide.
LnYssaY9MFo/UvbcjX2vWOI/AAAAAAAAAaM/1p5tum7D0T4/s1600/DSC02357.JPG]
The installation of the Piston and Guide and Spring can be accomplished at once by lubricating all parts and
pushing these carefully into the bore of the Servo. You need to be careful that the Circlip groove does not damage
the seals as they pass through. Whilst holding or clamping the assembly down, the Snap ring can be re installed.
Note the Adjustment screw on the end of the Band Actuator has not been altered. This adjustment can be checked
later in the overhaul.
FUEMzPoeYo0/UvbclBkvo3I/AAAAAAAAAaU/cSmg2Qt5f8M/s1600/DSC02358.JPG]
The Front Servo, complete and ready for use.

[http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--
bwnap0c6R4/Uvbe5uyfdqI/AAAAAAAAAag/2enQvAvklrk/s1600/DSC02243.JPG]
Extension Housing Slip-Yoke Bush and Mechanical seal
Both these parts are very likely to be ‘stonkered’ and up for mandatory for replacement.
The seal can be punched out using a long length of bar driven with a hammer from the casing end of the Housing.
If you try prying the seal out wit a large screwdriver from the outside, be really careful you don’t damage the rim of
the housing.
As for the Slip Yoke Bushing, I’m led to believe a Ford C4 bush will do but I was unable to obtain an original
replacement part in the local generic auto parts outlets (a little strange, I thought but, hey, I live in Australia....). I
decided to buy an off the shelf Phosphor Bronze Bush and bore it to size, so that I could compensate for wear on
the yoke OD. The Slip Yoke should be measured accurately and its condition ascertained. If it is really badly
scored and undersize, you can look into replacing it, having it ground professionally. If it is only slighty undersize
and uneven a few 'thou' along its length, you can use fine Emery cloth, carefully, to even up the diameter. I have a
Lathe and was able to capitalise on this by machining appropriate punches and drifts. You might be luckier on this
score by finding pipes and tubes to do this job without the use of a Lathe. The old part will need driving out with a
suitably sized drift and re inserted similarly. Mine turned out very neat after a little judicious hand scraping. The OD
of the Bush was already the correct size as purchased. Ensure you don’t damage this part getting it in there.If you
do, use a small file or scraper to remove the deformation. Pressing is preferable to hammering. In the event, I
believe the bush may have been available through the supplier of the Overhaul Kit.
ZpnIqFbTimw/Uv_7n5UoDII/AAAAAAAAAbw/rdrfIhNynSk/s1600/DSC02304.JPG]
If you do machine a new bush yourself, make sure you include a spiral oil groove like the original one to help
supply oil to the mating parts. The groove needs to be fitted so its inner end is downward to help collect oil from
the bottom of the housing. This groove is absent in this picture and is needing to be rectified. I also believe the
Ford C4 Bush is quite a bit shorter, so making my own allowed me to keep its length similar to the old original.

As for the Seal- ensure you tap it in with a flat board or similar device to keep it even and undistorted.
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[http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-39Qh6MbTDGI/Uv_72YOPR_I/AAAAAAAAAcA/Ea9xBRVb1Uo/s1600/DSC02308.JPG]
[http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fPoy46zL4y4/Uv_7t7JL0nI/AAAAAAAAAb0/EezUl8xztw0/s1600/DSC02306.JPG]
OIL SUPPLY TUBES FOR REAR PUMP

These need to have new ‘O’ rings fitted for reassembly. A straight forward job- old one off, new one on but ensure
they are correctly sized for their location and lubricated with transmission fluid or Petroleum Jelly during fitment to
reduce the possibility of damage as you push the tube into place. There are two tubes, one short (Rear Pump oil
supply to the Control Valve), one long (Rear Pump oil suction side). The short one has an ‘O’ ring at its to bottom
end- sealing against the cast Iron casing. The long one, has an ‘O’ ring on its top end –sealing at the entry to the
Rear Pump casing. The latter’s swaged bump which enters the Oil Pickup Screen has no ‘O’ ring.
lVb4RB09RL8/UwADjL9Tr9I/AAAAAAAAAcQ/9Vzt1jYAXw0/s1600/DSC02201.JPG]
Rear Pump and Governor Seal Rings
Commence by removing the Snap Ring above the nylon Speedometer Drive Gear and remove the Gear.
Note:- There is a Bearing Ball acting as a key for the nylon gear. Ensure it doesn't get lost. It can be seen in the
picture protruding from the shaft on the right hand side. It can be easily removed using a magnet.
bovfeDI0IPU/UwAFfc6P8vI/AAAAAAAAAcY/vzPEgVXT7NY/s1600/DSC02386.JPG]
Withdraw the Oil Distributor and its Tubes, up and off the shaft.
rwgfEDVKnlw/UwAFhxJqG5I/AAAAAAAAAck/hyjY0DFADnc/s1600/DSC02387.JPG]
This will expose four Seal Rings....
[http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6TfNPOtlt0I/UwAFg4gljLI/AAAAAAAAAcg/C-
VlGvRgLoc/s1600/DSC02388.JPG]
Remove the Snap Ring above the Governor
ARVddMKh6gU/UwAFjbz1pZI/AAAAAAAAAcw/y_tuDjCWwdU/s1600/DSC02389.JPG]
Withdraw the Governor. Note:- There is another Bearing Ball acting as a key, here. It can be seen in the picture
still in place in the shaft toward the bottom.
[http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kpK0pZL-D5E/UwAFk-
94kFI/AAAAAAAAAc4/0a1M0jdpk9A/s1600/DSC02390.JPG]
Examine the bore of the Governor to ascertain whether the Seal Rings have worn grooves into the surface. This
one is virtually perfect. The ball 'key' is adjacent my index finger in the photo. .

fCMwfJWpmmA/UwAFmDwdeRI/AAAAAAAAAdA/HLKfLnkBMyc/s1600/DSC02391.JPG]
More than likely, your rear pump will be in good order and not need disassembly. In actual fact, It's more than likely
you'll want to see what's in there and under the circumstances, why not. The following photos will show you what it
looks like. The cover over the gears can be removed by undoing the five screws. Check the surface of this plate
for scoring or excessive wear. the picture shows normal (minimal) wear and this is quite ok. This face can be
ground if necessary, to restore a flat surface. The gears should be similarly unworn, not discoloured and present
similarly as the photo shows.
VjfpCLqRElQ/UwAFnkwoSaI/AAAAAAAAAdI/uDc0KuXdGmk/s1600/DSC02392.JPG]
The pump section can be lifted from the shaft. this will expose a woodruff key that engages with the central gear-
(indicating using a screwdriver)-don't lose this! The central gear and key must be removed before the Pump body
can be lifted up the shaft. Note the large thrust washer with locating tabs.

GNsQnp9NtT8/UwAFpJlJifI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/tCM0RXEWDog/s1600/DSC02393.JPG]
The Rear Pump removed from the shaft and the center gear placed again. Note the white-metal bearing in the
center- check this for wear while you're at it If you believe that this bearing has excessive clearance then you will
need to press it out and replace it
grLTxDrcHIE/UwAFqinr01I/AAAAAAAAAdY/fajK2Sy8NR4/s1600/DSC02395.JPG]
If you remove the gears for a look-at, ensure they are returned the same way up as you picked them out...
jDKlxvN2glo/UwAGvmRWuUI/AAAAAAAAAew/reLQN-ID9TA/s1600/DSC02401.JPG]
This is the other side of that tabbed Thrust Washer. note this side is Bronze faced. Check all surfaces for
condition.

nBdUlI5_65g/UwAFsLyjbSI/AAAAAAAAAdg/1-6f3UfEO58/s1600/DSC02396.JPG]
The next two shots shows the surface on the shaft where the Bronze Thrust washer and bearing runs. Both are in
in good condition, here.
PMzGbPgA2eg/UwAFtkH58EI/AAAAAAAAAdo/ak3EcdmdhGM/s1600/DSC02397.JPG]
nl8wrNsQWS8/UwAFwm6J0GI/AAAAAAAAAd4/jq478RyycUU/s1600/DSC02400.JPG]
These shot is simply another view of the Output Shaft showing the thrust washer and internal bore for reference
sake.

dyvOZi4sJvY/UwAFvBn6P4I/AAAAAAAAAdw/APA65eeEk0g/s1600/DSC02398.JPG]
The next few Photos detail the re assembly of the pump.

Note:- Ensure all parts are given a coat of Petroleum jelly during the re assembly. The first shot shows the Center
gear and the woodruff key way in the shaft. At this point, re insert the woodruff key and then the center gear.
kZROBI5zEWI/UwAFzv2_hUI/AAAAAAAAAeA/IJTB4YGVeio/s1600/DSC02402.JPG]
You will likely need to carefully rotate the gears slightly in order for the keyway and gears to all mesh at the same
time. Ensure you don't damage any gear surfaces when you do this.
[http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FZf1FwB_5Jw/UwAF2KIRM-
I/AAAAAAAAAeI/nZWP3J5aqNI/s1600/DSC02403.JPG]
Ensure the tabbed Thrust Washer is in place, and re assemble with the the Output Shaft.

[http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Z5PzgPFOfs/UwAF4I_yYOI/AAAAAAAAAeQ/NUXpoR8gJk4/s1600/DSC02404.JPG]
The seal rings for the Oil Collector should be replaced with new ones and have their grooves staggered around
the circumference.
glNvlfsDZQ8/UwAF9qLExRI/AAAAAAAAAeg/BFvVNLvG7PI/s1600/DSC02406.JPG]
Ensure you re insert the 'Ball Key' and then place the Governor. Insert the Snap Ring to retain the Governor
Install the Oil Collector, making sure you carefully press it over the new seal rings.
Insert the other 'Ball Key' , the nylon Speedometer gear and its snap ring.The Output Shaft is now ready for
installation.
V70W3Cf2Ga0/UwAF_pOOrrI/AAAAAAAAAeo/698PeMwOxNM/s1600/DSC02407.JPG]
The Front Pump
The front mechanical seal for the Torque Converter nose will need replacing as well as the bronze Bush seen at
the top of the pump. I was cautioned by a seasoned re-builder of these Transmissions that this would be likely the
case and on measuring it, I found that it's clearance was excessive. I did not realise that this bush was in fact

available as a service part and instead , ordered an off-the-shelf general purpose Phosphor Bronze bush to
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machine to size on my Lathe. A waste of time?... Possibly, but I do know I had control over the final clearance that
way. You will need to drive out the bush using a drift/punch using a press or hammer. The drift should be made as
Classic large a diameter
Flipcard as will fit Mosaic
Magazine down the Sidebar
input shaft Snapshot
bore of the pump (from the casing side) and you can easily drive it
Timeslide
out. A Lathe is a real boon for this kind of work!. Ensure everything is clean and lubed before gently fitting in a new
bush. Pressing this in is preferable but gently tapping it in with a neatly faced (and even spigoted) drift will suffice.
you might try putting the bush in the freezer to shrink it slightly. Check whether you can still fit the input shaft in
there and if you can't, scrape away any deformation from the bush that might have cropped up.
The Mechanical Seal, if it is still the original metal cased one shown in the picture, protrudes from its recess. This
allows you to run around its periphery with a Pin Punch and drive it out fairly easily. The replacement ones sit flush
and will likely need prying out the hard way. Be careful doing this because there is a whitemetal bearing under this
(you can see it in the pic) and you might not want to ruin it.
[http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5R4GiuoJHdQ/U6T_e-
glZzI/AAAAAAAAAhE/LoIcRwfPjbA/s1600/DSC02252.JPG]
You might wish to open up the back of the pump for inspection. If you do make sure you assemble everything
exactly the same way you found it, pre-lube it with some Petroleum jelly and ensure the little screws back there are
secure. Generally, you will find no issues there unless you are very unlucky. Everything should be smooth and
relatively un-worn.
[http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SVDAxummbtw/U6UAB-
RbXEI/AAAAAAAAAhI/FPpVJY-uMAw/s1600/DSC02305.JPG]
You might notice I made my bush a little longer... The original is the steel backed unit on the lleft.

xNnxwfioDvs/U6UHwYvdq2I/AAAAAAAAAhY/LEhEUAWyGfE/s1600/DSC02306.JPG]
All completed and ready to install. I measured the internal white-metal bearing that the Torque converter runs in
and determined it was OK for further service. Notice how the new seal sits flush.
IF YOU FIND THIS BLOG USEFUL OR YOU WISH TO MAKE COMMENTS, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO WRITE
THESE IN THE MESSAGES SECTION AT THE BOTTOM OF THESE PAGES
This is STILLa work-in progress.......Please prompt me to finish this if you need help!
[http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4y6-5PyJns8/UtZUcdVSoEI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/AcOeRumU_g8/s1600/DSC02204.JPG]
Posted 5th January 2014 by Steve Winzar
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Overhauling The Studebaker Flightomatic Gearbox

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Classic Flipcard Magazine Mosaic Sidebar Snapshot Timeslide

5th January 2014

Overhauling the Studebaker 'Flightomatic' Transmission

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Number one- The Studebaker Shop manual is actually very good

most valuable publication.

Another Manual on Bob's website- the '1960 Motor Manual' publication...

Article on 'Powershift Transmission' http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/transmission/FMX/fmx2.html

Interesting articles dealing with Flightomatics, et al http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/1stgearst.txt

PARTS SUPPLIERS (USA)

Fatsco Transmission Parts, New Jersey www.fatsco.net