June 2015

Detecting Hair
Damage p 34

Heat Protection in Hair p 28

Anti-dandruff Shampoos p 40
Extended Conditioning p 46

Hair Care Directory and Formulary p 54

Focus
Hair

er
ist
eg
45
/r
4,
om

p
.c
es
tri
ile
To
nd
sa
ic
et
m
os
C
it.
m
m
Su
 C&T June 2015
Cover art by James Fergus
2 Editor’s Note
6 Scientific Advisors
64 Advertisers Index
Market Intelligence
8 Two Key Factors in Hair Care Growth:
Mass and Efficacy by O. Mohiuddin
10 Finished Product Launches
12 Read the Label: L’Oréal Preference
Mousse Absolue by S. Raffy
14 Technology Launches
Regulatory
16 Massive Innovations, Complex Regulations:
The Entanglements of Hair Care Products
by R. Ross-Fichtner and D. Noble
Research
20 Shaving and its Effects on
Percutaneous Absorption in the Skin
by M. Hamza and H.I. Maibach, M.D.
24 A Review of Novel Cleansing and
Conditioning Systens by M. Tolla, Ph.D.
Testing
28 Beating the Damaging Effects of
Heat on Hair by T.A. Evans, Ph.D.
34 Hidden Hair Damage and the Importance of
Multiple Tests by C. Popescu, Ph.D.
Formulating
40 Anti-dandruff Shampoo
by L. Rigano, Ph.D. Moving into the digital publishing arena is not an easy process. Being
46 Lasting Hair Conditioning via
In situ Controlled Floccuation
by T. Nuutinen, et al.
54 Hair Care Directory and Formulary
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
Editor’s note | C&T
Embracing Kevin Campbell
Multifunctional Opportunities
The sun was warm and the air was humid in Edison, NJ, May 12 and 13,
which made it a good couple of days to stay indoors and take in the exhibits
at this year’s New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Suppliers’ Day at the
New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center. Offering attendees more than
800 exhibitors, there was something there for anyone and everyone from the
cosmetic industry. And for a lowly editor venturing into his first foray in this
industry, it was a fantastic opportunity to meet and speak with some of you
about a business that you are clearly passionate about.
Along with making some great new friends, I came away from the show
impressed by the innovations I saw, particularly in terms of versatile products
and sustainable practices. From the uses of natural and renewable ingredients
to green manufacturing processes, the industry as a whole is clearly making
an effort to provide great products at a minimal cost to the environment,
and doing it in ways that make business sense. And while the desire to create
multifunctional products may not be a new one, it is a trend that is only growing.
Cosmetics & Toiletries is jumping on the multifunctional bandwagon, too.
Well, maybe not as much multifunction as multichannel.
We know you come to C&T every month for the best scientific content for
cosmetic chemists. We’re happy to have been your choice for the many, many
years that we’ve been doing this, but we’ve realized that as technologies evolve,
we have to evolve to give you a better, comprehensive content experience. So, in
the months ahead, you’ll start to see some new and exciting things from C&T.
You’ve been hearing from us for a while now that we’d have some new names
and faces joining the team, and we weren’t kidding. My time holding the title of
new guy in the office lasted for all of about five minutes, it seems. And I’m okay
with that.
This month we’ve added Mino Zaccaro as digital/social media editor and
Jennifer Novoseletsky as assistant editor, and their roles will be key for us going
forward. As we move ahead exploring new ways of delivering content, they
will be instrumental in our efforts of creating and distributing the information
that you’ve come to expect from C&T. They will be working across our brands,
helping us improve the content experience at C&T, GCI, Skin Inc. and Perfumer
& Flavorist.
Mino comes to us from KeyImpact Sales & Systems, where he managed
content over a wide range of social media channels while growing relationships
with key decision makers in the industry. He will be taking the lead on our
digital and social media development, analyzing our content and working hand-
in-hand with our staff to ensure we’re giving you the right content, at the right
time and on the right channel.
Jennifer is a recent graduate of Illinois State University and comes to C&T
with a passion for editing and writing. Her main focus will be working with
Rachel Grabenhofer, our scientific acquisitions editor and long-time C&T editor,
and our feature writers on the scientific articles you rely on, but she will also have
her hand in the news and product information you’ll see from us.
innovative rarely is. But the cosmetic industry couldn’t continue to grow if it
wasn’t pushing the envelope, as it showed it is at Suppliers’ Day. Now it’s our
turn to push the envelope at C&T, because we want to provide you with the best
content experience in the industry.
Introducing Collrepair™ DG
A New Active to Reverse Glycation
Add more life to your formulations with Collrepair™ DG –
A novel synergistic complex that breaks advanced glycation end
products (AGES) to help skin fibers gain back their flexibility and
functionality. Just one of the many new active ingredients by
BASF Care Creations. Visit us at ulprospector.com
carecreations.basf.com
 Editorial
Director Jo-El M. Grossman
Managing Editor Kevin Campbell
1-630-344-6068/kcampbell@allured.com
Scientific Acquisitions Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer
1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Assistant Editor Jennifer Novoseletsky
1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com
Advertising Sales
Vice President Brian O’Rourke
1-630-344-6030/borourke@allured.com
Business Development Manager
US (NJ & PA), Canada, Central &
South America/C&T Summit Tom Harris
Exhibits & Sponsorships 1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com
Business Development Manager
All US states except NJ & PA/ Kim Jednachowski
C&T Summit Exhibits & Sponsorships 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com
Business Development Manager Jane Evison
Europe & Asia 44(0)-1430-441685/jane-evison@btconnect.com
Business Development Manager Paige Crist
Fragrance 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Marketing Specialist Brittany Best
1-630-344-6076/bbest@allured.com
Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski
1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
Audience Development
Director Linda Schmitt
Customer Service Brittany Embry
1-888-355-5962/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
DesigN
Manager Andrew Frederick
Graphic Designer James Fergus
Production Manager Bryan Crowe

Events
Group Show Director Sandy Chapin
Show Manager Mary Richter
1-630-344-6023/mrichter@allured.com
Corporate
President Janet Ludwig
Controller Linda Getner
Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero

Other products brought to you by Allured:

Alluredbooks, Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference (CBR), Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition, Cosmetics
& Toiletries Summit, GCI (Global Cosmetic Industry) magazine, Perfumer & Flavorist magazine, Flavorcon, World Perfumery
Congress, Allured’s FFM Buyer’s Guide, Skin Inc. magazine, Face & Body Midwest Spa Conference & Expo, and Face & Body
Northern California Spa Conference & Expo
Cosmetics & Toiletries® (ISSN 0361-4387CTOIDG) is published nine times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug.,
Sept., Oct. and Nov./Dec. by Allured Business Media.
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 |
Tel: 1-888-355-5962 (9 AM–5 PM Central, Mon–Fri) | Fax: 1-630-653-2192 |
E-mail: customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/subscribe

Print subscriptions: United States—$98 one year; Canada—US$137 one year; all other countries—US$189 one year, shipped by
air. Single copy, US$25. Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices. Change of address: Give
both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective. Missing issues: Claims for missing issues
must be made within three months of the date of issue.

Postmaster: Send address changes to Cosmetics & Toiletries, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188

Reprints: For quality custom article reprints and e-prints, contact Foster Printing at 1-866-879-9144, x 168 or email jillk@
fosterprinting.com for a quote. www.FosterPrinting.com

Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical
inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within
this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or
omissions in this publication and in other documentation referred to within or affiliated with this publication.

Copyright 2015: Authorization to photocopy articles and news is granted by Allured Business Media, provided that the fee of
US$6 per copy per item is paid directly to the Copyright Clearance Center Transactional Reporting Service, 21 Congress St., Salem
Ma 01970--Publication No. 0361-4387CTOIDG/01/$6.

4 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

innerr beauty
b
INNOSPEC knows that beauty is
more than skin deep. That’s why
everything that goes into our
personal care products is inspired,
evaluated, and perfected before
earning the right to touch the
lives of the people who rely on us.

INNOSPEC can help find the

products that will work beautifully
for you.

Visit innospecinc.com/personalcare
 Scientific Advisory Board | C&T

“The hair care market is constantly evolving with new products and technologies intro-
duced every year. One recent area of interest has been products that go beyond cleaning
and conditioning the hair surface. These new products deliver actives to penetrate hair
in order to better preserve the integrity of the whole fiber, not just the surface. Also new
are products that add care dimensions beyond conditioning; for example, reducing the
oxidative damage that affects hair health regardless of ethnicity, color, etc. These
products fulfill a need by keeping routines simple—not adding more products but
adding more benefits to the shampoo/conditioner regimen.”

Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.

Procter & Gamble

Eric Abrutyn Shuzo Ishidate, Leslie C. Smith,

TPC2 Advisors Ltd. Ph.D. Ph.D.
Shiseido Research Coty-Lancaster
Center

Zoe Diana Prithwiraj Maitra, David C. Steinberg

Draelos, M.D. Ph.D. Steinberg & Associates
Dermatology Johnson & Johnson
Consulting Services

Angela R. Eppler, Marc Pissavini, Peter Tsolis

Ph.D. Ph.D. The Estée Lauder
Pfizer Consumer Coty-Lancaster Companies
Healthcare

Trefor Evans, Ph.D. Luigi Rigano, Ph.D. Russel Walters,

TA Evans LLC Industrial Consulting Ph.D.
Research Johnson &
Johnson

S. Peter Foltis Sylvianne Xiao Wu, Ph.D.

L’Oréal Schnebert, M.D. Eli Lilly and Co.
LVMH Recherche

Mindy Goldstein, Ron Sharpe Shuliang Zhang,

Ph.D. Amway Corp. Ph.D.
Atlantic Coast Media Unilever
Group

6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

Your formulations are essential to your future success. Why not make them even
better with specialty additives from ANGUS?

We can create a customized solution using our nitroalkane chemistry that will aid
with neutralization and pH buffering for almost any personal care product. Safely.
Effectively. Plus, our global network of Customer Application Centers is ready to
work with you, providing localized technical and regulatory support.

Get the personalized attention your personal care products

deserve. Contact us at info@angus.com

angus.com
 Market Intelligence | C&T
Two Key Factors in Hair Care Growth:
Mass and Efficacy
Oru Mohiuddin, Euromonitor International
A
t 4.7%, growth in the hair care market fell
below the industry average of 5.0% in 2014,
but the good news is this increased from
4.5% in 2013 in all regions except Asia-Pacific and
Western Europe. Latin America accounted for 45%
of the global growth in hair care, thanks to Brazil.
The fact that North America is improving is also good
news since, regionally, it ranks highest in terms of per
capita spending on hair care.
Shampoos and conditioners, in particular, accounted
for more than 60% absolute growth in hair care
globally. Targeted offerings with pronounced health
and beauty benefits helped to drive growth in these
categories. While efficacy in the form of targeted
solutions is increasing in importance, hair care
continues to be mass-orientated as consumers show a
greater preference for value products. Going forward,
success will continue to involve combining mass
offerings with efficacy.
Health Focus Inspires
New Product Forms
Increasingly, hair care products are incorporating
sophisticated solutions to help create healthy looking
hair. These generally address damaged and limp hair-
but also provide scalp health benefits. In fact, providing
nourishment to the scalp is said to help strengthen
hair follicles and contribute to healthy and strong hair.
Thus, a greater number of shampoos and conditioners
now include rare and exotic oils to provide nutrition
to the scalp. In addition, dedicated formats such as
hair masks, serums and other treatments benefit
Save to scalp health.
My Library As consumers become more aware of scalp health,
opportunities arise for products omitting or reducing
Reproduction in English or any other language of
8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
© 2015 Allured Business Media.
ingredients that cause scalp dryness. Sulfates, for
example, create lather in shampoos but can strip the
hair of its natural oil, adding to the problem of dry scalp.
Dry shampoos are therefore positioned as products
to alternate with wet shampoos to reduce exposure to
sulfates. Some dry shampoo brands even make scalp
health claims to reinforce this benefit.
Like dry shampoos, cleansing conditioners are
sulfate-free and offer an alternative that can benefit scalp
health. Both dry shampoos and cleansing conditioners
have strong potential for the Afro hair type, since these
consumers tend to have dry scalps and, therefore, could
benefit from replacements.
Perms and Relaxers for the
Multicultural Space
Perms and relaxers, developed for ethnic and cultural
preferences, grew by 7% in 2014-half the 14%
pace recorded in 2013, although this peaked after
older products were replaced with safer ingredients
in Latin America. Most sales in this category are
generated in Latin America, the Middle East and Africa,
accounting for nearly 80% of global sales. In relation,
in order to tap into the expected growth in perms and
relaxers, L’Oréal acquired Brazilian company Niely
in 2014.
Hair Care
Remains a Mass Offering
Despite the increasing focus on functionality and efficacy,
hair care growth continues mostly in the mass market,
accounting for nearly 90% of global hair care sales.
Premium hair care is projected to grow at a slightly faster
pace of 2.0% CAGR, compared to a 1.8% CAGR for mass
hair care, but in absolute terms, mass hair care is projected
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
to account for 88% of the projected absolute growth in
hair care between 2014 and 2019.
Unlike skin care, consumers are less willing to
pay a higher margin for hair care, since skin is more
closely linked to beauty than hair. The relatively lower
margin in hair care, however, can be compensated
by boosting volume growth in both developed and
developing markets.
Frequency in Mature vs.
Developing Markets
Driving volume growth in mature markets is
a challenge. However, products launched with
sophisticated claims in novel formats have driven value
growth in terms of higher unit prices; although these
products are designed to add extra steps to the existing
beauty routine, thus increasing the frequency of hair
care product use.
One such launch is L’Oréal’s Fribrology-an entire
range that aims to create fuller-looking hair. It
includes shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums and
boosters. Using all the products in the range is said to
maximize efficacy.
While driving growth in developed markets involves
adding new steps to the beauty routine, in developing
markets, improved penetration is accomplished by
increasing the frequency of shampoo use. In Brazil,
the per capita volume of shampoo was 1,022 mL in
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair
2014, compared with 105 mL in India; in markets such
as Nigeria and Egypt, the volume per capita use is even
lower. Entrenching shampoo use as part of a regular
grooming routine in these markets could help to drive
volume growth.
Conclusion
Despite efforts to invigorate a relatively mature hair
care market, this category continues to under-index
the industry average. Value growth in hair care has
been hampered by an upwardly inelastic value margin.
However, there is hope in untapped zones in emerging
markets, where the frequency of shampoo use continues
to be low.
Developing a deeper penetration in such markets
in addition to tapping into white spaces in developed
markets could contribute to the global momentum for
hair care growth, and may even help to overtake the
industry average.
Editor’s note: To read the original version of this
market report, see the June issue of GCI magazine or visit
www.GCImagazine.com.
Cosmetics & Toiletries® |9
 Market Intelligence | C&T

Finished Product Launches

Cleansing Conditioner
Bain de Terre | www.baindeterre.com

Bain de Terre’s new Keratin Phyto-Protein 5-in-1 cleansing conditioner is a shampoo, conditioner, deep
conditioner, detangler and leave-in conditioner. It is infused with plant-based keratin, a natural component of
hair’s structure, plus Bain de Terre’s signature beautifying argan and monoi oils and botanicals. It is also sulfate-
free, paraben-free, color-safe and suitable for all hair types.

Ingredients: Water/Eau (aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate,
Behentrimonium Chloride, Ceteareth-20, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy
Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Viola Tricolor Extract, Argania
Spinosa Kernel Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Ribes Nigrum (Black
Currant) Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Amodimethicone, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, C11-15
Pareth-7, Laureth-9, Glycerin, Trideceth-12, Polysorbate 20, Isopropyl Alcohol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone,
Methylisothiazolinone, Magnesium Chloride, Magnesium Nitrate, DMDM Hydantoin, Limonene, Coumarin,
Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Fragrance (parfum).

full coverage skin care

Ecco Bella | www.eccobella.com

Ecco Bella introduces its FlowerColor Natural Liquid Foundation SPF 15 line of products, each
formulated with skin treatment, sunscreen and foundation ingredients. These water-based, lightweight
and natural-looking products provide excellent coverage and keep skin healthy with UVA/UVB
protection. Aloe vera is said to quench the skin while saccharide isomerate binds water to the skin, acti­ng
as a reservoir for continuous moisture. Organic herbs and vitamin E rejuvenate, protect and soothe skin.
The formulas are gluten-free, vegan and paraben-free.

Active ingredients: Zinc Oxide 2%, Titanium Dioxide 9%. Inactive ingredients: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf
Juice*, Vegetable Glycerin, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus
(Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Stearic Acid, Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil**, Behenyl Olivate, Persea
Gratissima (Avocado) Oil*, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Fruit**, Passiflora Edulis (Passionfruit) Oil*, Methylcellulose,
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract*, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf*, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower*, Jojoba Esters,
Flower Wax, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenethyl Alcohol. May contain (±): Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron
Oxide (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499). * certified organic, **fair trade certified

Color-protect Shampoo
RICH International Creative Haircare, LLC | https://us.richhaircare.com

RICH Pure Luxury Argan Color Protect Shampoo is formulated with a proprietary blend of argan oil, hydrolyzed
wheat, corn and soy proteins. This luxuriously rich shampoo nourishes and strengthens color-treated hair, for
vibrant color that endures. It is designed to smooth hair, reduce breakage and increase resilience for all hair types
and textures. Free from silicone oil, sulfates and parabens, it also protects against UV and thermal damage.

Ingredients: Water/Eau (aqua), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauryl
Sulfoacetate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Glycerin, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose
Dioleate, Glycol Distearate, Fragrance (parfum), PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Carbomer, Panthenol, Guar
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy
Protein, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, PPG-28-Buteth-35, Tetrasodium
EDTA, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, CI 19140, CI 15985.
Ingredients/claims are published as provided to C&T magazine by the manufacturers.

10 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

 Market Intelligence | C&T
Read the Label
L’Oréal Preference
Mousse Absolue
The most unique feature of this hair color
product is the ability for the package to mix the
colorant and developer as the product is being
applied. The consumer simply exchanges the
flat shipping cap on the bottle for the mixing/
dispensing cap. Depending on the length of the
hair to be colored, enough product remains for a
second full application or touch-up.
The video on the manufacturer’s
website is very informative
and demonstrates how to use
the product in great detail. This
column will attempt to review the
ingredient listing for functionality
and claims substantiation.
The vehicle/diluent is water
and the primary surfactants
that help with the washout are
trideceth-2 and carboxamide MEA.
Propylene glycol provides
some moisturization,
while hexylene glycol and
alcohol denatured are
solvents. Polyglyceryl-2-
oleyl ether, polyglyceryl-4
oleyl ether and sodium
diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide act as hair conditioning agents
and PEG-2 oleamine is a foam booster. Oleic acid and oleyl alcohol are
viscosity increasing agents and form the emulsion.
Sodium metabisulfite is an antioxidant to help stabilize the formula;
ammonium hydroxide is an alkaline pH adjuster and ammonium acetate
is a pH buffering agent. The 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCl is a coupler
used in permanent oxidative hair colorants. Resorcinol, m-aminophenol,
toluene-2,5-diamine and n,n-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine
sulfate impart color to the hair. Citronellol, linalool and eugenol, found
naturally in clove oil, are fragrance ingredients; fragrance is also listed.
Alpha-isomethyl ionone is an odor-masking ingredient. Thioglycerin
is a reducing agent necessary for the permanent hair color reaction, and
pentasodium pentetate is a chelating agent. There are no “bio-active” or
cosmeceutical ingredients in this formula.
Propane, butane and isobutane are the aerosol propellants that
form the “mousse” as they are mixed with the colorant. In this author’s
opinion, the ingredients listed do support the marketing claims made for
this product.
Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting
The viewpoints expressed in this column are those of the author and
do not necessarily reflect those of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
12 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
Skin hydrator
NeoStrata Company, Inc. | www.neostrata.com
NeoStrata Co., Inc., launched Skin Active Dermal
Replenishment, a hydrator that delivers a four-pronged
anti-aging approach to skin. Created to replenish
hydration levels and reverse signs of aging, it also helps
to correct dehydrated and damaged skin, including
slackened, wrinkled skin; dark spots; uneven skin tone;
and mottled pigmentation. It features the company’s
Aminofil ingredient to help lift, firm and reduce the
appearance of lines and wrinkles. Its NeoGlucosamine
ingredient plumps and firms skin while evening skin tone;
maltobionic acid hydrates skin; and a natural moisturizing
complex both hydrates skin and reduces moisture loss.
Ingredients: Water (aqua), Glycerin, Maltobionic Acid,
Acetyl Glucosamine, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate,
Steareth-2, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyrospermum Parkii
(Shea) Butter, Octyldodecanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/
Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isostearic
Acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, Acetyl Tyrosinamide, Saccharide
Isomerate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1,
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract,
Sodium PCA, Serine, Glycine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine,
Threonine, Proline, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Betaine,
Sorbitol, Isopropyl Myristate, Glutamic Acid, Butylene
Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer,
Polysorbate 20, Steareth-20, Ammonium Hydroxide, Disodium
EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Bisulfite, Xanthan Gum,
Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Methyldihydro- jasmonate,
Isobutyl Methyl Tetra- hydropyranol, Ethylene Brassylate,
Methyl Decenol, CI 14700 (Red 4), CI 19140 (Yellow 5).
Hair Gel
Dollar Shave Club | www.dollarshaveclub.com/boogies
Dollar Shave Club launched Boogie’s, a
multi-product hair styling line, which
includes gel, clay, cream, fiber and
paste. Boogie’s Bold Hair Gel delivers
definition, texture, hold and shine
with no flakes or stiffness. Without
the use of alcohol, the products relieve frizzy, coarse and dry
hair, creating a firm hold and glossy shine. Bold Hair Gel is
recommended for any hair length and texture, and is formulated
to provide extra moisture.
Ingredients: Water/Eau (aqua), PVP, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Macrocystis
Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Linum
Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit
Oil, Morus Nigra Fruit Extract, Robinia Pseudoacacia Flower
Extract, Laureth-23, Glycerin, Biotin, PEG-4 Laurate, Propylene
Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid, DMDM Hydantoin,
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Linalool, Citronellol, Fragrance
(parfum).
 i e n t !
g re d
w i n
Ne
SWT-7™

ACTIVATES ADIPOSE-DERIVED
STEM CELL AND GROWTH
FACTOR PRODUCTION

IMPROVEMENT OF VERTICAL WRINKLE AND

LIPSTICK MIGRATION SKIN TEXTURE IMPROVEMENT

D0 D28 D0 D7

SWT-7 TM PROVIDES A YOUTHFUL AND PEACEFUL FACIAL EXPRESSION !

in-cosmetics ®

Innovation Zone
Best Ingredient
Award 2015

lucasmeyercosmetics.com SILVER
info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
 Market Intelligence | C&T
Technology Launches
silicone dispersion
Grant Inc. solved the
challenges of dispersing
standard silicone
elastomers in water
by creating a new
vehicle for formulators.
Gransil SiW Elastomer
Gels (INCI: Varies)
enable formulators to
load high levels of polysilicone-11 elastomer into water-based gel
structures with the minimal use of emulsifiers (below 0.5%), and by
cold-processing methods. The stable formulations achieved also serve
as excellent delivery bases for active ingredients.
The elastomer gels can be formulated to offer unique sensory
benefits with a water-to-powder break upon application. For example,
the outer water phase cools, soothes and hydrates skin on contact.
Then, seconds later, silicone elastomer particles release from a gel
matrix to fill lines and even skin complexion with a soft powder-like
texture. The gels can also be used to improve the sensory aesthetics of
existing emulsions, with easy post-addition. Applications include skin
care, daily wear, color cosmetics, sun care, body care and hair care.
www.grantinc.com
circadian regulation
Ashland applied the science of circadian regulation
to skin care by creating an extract from yeast
protein to maintain skin’s cellular rhythm and
guard against UV damage. According to the
company, more than 20% of gene expression in a
tissue falls under circadian regulation. However,
this function within skin cells may be disrupted
by external factors. At the beginning of the day,
DNA prepares for UV exposure with antioxidant
enzymes. At night, cells undergo DNA repair and
replication procedures based partly on the expression of clock genes
within a closed loop system. However, this 24-hr cycle can be disrupted
by UV exposure and, accordingly, impede cell regeneration.
Chronogen YST (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and)
Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (Proposed)) was shown in vitro to promote
expression within clock gene proteins, to resynchronize optimal skin
functions. It also improved skin turnover, a parameter that slows
with aging.
This ingredient is recommended at 1% in: day-time formulations,
to help skin boost its natural defenses against UV-induced damage;
night-time formulations, to reinforce skin’s own regeneration processes;
anti-aging formulations with claims based on epigenetic science; and
formulations to help maintain the skin’s “synchronized” internal clock.
www.ashland.com
14 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
dandruff analyzer
The DandruffMeter DA 20 is
designed to quickly and accurately
analyze dandruff. Collected dandruff
is inserted into the device, where a
circularly arranged LED homogenously
illuminates the sample on a dark
background. A high-resolution camera
above the sample captures an image
that is then analyzed by software for
size (in pixels and mm²) to categorize the sample into nine different
size classes. The unit is easy to calibrate and can automatically
calculate an average of four images. It easily connects to computers
via a USB interface.
Technical Data: Dimensions: approx. 13.5 cm × 13 cm × 15.3 cm (H
× W × L); Bevel: 10 degrees on front, 60 degrees on back: Opening:
approx. 9.2 cm × 3.1 cm (W × H); Weight: 1.56 kg; Port: USB 2.0;
Power supply, input: 110-240 V, 50-60 Hz, output: DC 12 V/max. 4A;
Light source: white LED light, arranged circularly; USB-Camera: 1/2”
CMOS, Resolution: 1280 × 1024 Pixel = 1,3 MPixel, max. 25 images/
sec; Objective: M12 6 mm focal length, distance camera to sample:
approx. 9 cm, petri dish: Ø 8.5 cm, visible field Ø 7.5 cm.
www.courage-khazaka.de
Preservative blends
Troy Corp. has created a
series of three customized,
broad-spectrum preservative
blends for personal
care applications. Each
TroyCare FE product
includes phenoxyethanol with different levels of iodopropynyl
butylcarbamate (IPBC), for the lowest total preservative cost. The
three blend offered are: TroyCare FE003, with 0.3% IPBC; TroyCare
FE01, with 1.0% IPBC; and TroyCare FE02, with 2.0% IPBC.
The blends are supplied in a liquid form and used to preserve
shampoos, conditioners, creams, lotions, sunscreens, makeup and
other cosmetics and personal care products. The ingredients are
globally approved, including in Japan, for rinse-off and leave-on
applications. They are also compatible with cationic, anionic
and nonionic surfactants. The blends provide antibacterial and
antifungal performance and have excellent safety profiles.
www.troycorp.com
 Hair Repair
Solutions
© 2015 The Lubrizol Corporation.
All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation.

make it
healthy.
damaged hair requires the right ingredients
and nurturing to bring it back to its natural
and healthy-looking state. restore texture,
shine and vitality to the most challenging
hair with Lubrizol’s exclusive hair repair
solutions. designed to treat hair from root
to tip, it leaves hair looking healthy and
pristine. formulate with confidence™.

www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
800.379.5389

make it with Lubrizol’s hair repair solutions.


Massive Innovations, Complex Regulations:
The Entanglements of
Hair Care Products
Robert Ross-Fichtner and Daniel Noble
Focal Point Research Inc., Mississauga, Ontario
KEY WORDS
Hair care products •
regulation • innovation •
removal • growth •
health • safety • trend •
technology
ABSTRACT
Few relationships are as
volatile as the one we
share with our hair. Either
we have too much of it or
too little; we grow it where
we don’t want it and lose it
where we do. Regardless
of each individual case,
hair growth and removal
spawns all kinds of new
technology, and along with
it, new regulations.
Save to
My Library
Reproduction in English or any other language of
16 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
Regulatory | C&T
N
o aspect of the human anatomy endures the love-hate relationship we
share with our hair. In some cases, we spend endless time and money
to get rid of it, spawning all sorts of shaving, depilatory, waxing and
laser technologies. Enormous innovation underpins all of these categories,
and each possesses its own regulatory challenges.
On the other hand, we are absolutely obsessed with our hair; wanting
more of it, and again spending seemingly limitless time and money to grow,
condition, color or perm it. This spawns even more technologies and leads
to some very important regulatory challenges.
Hair Removal and Growth
For consumers wanting less hair, the regulatory menu of possibilities
covers products such as razors, cosmetics (e.g., shaving foams, depilatories)
and medical devices (e.g., lasers). Each of these categories requires new
products to meet totally different regulatory paradigms before they reach
the market. Enforcement actions from regulators for these products would
typically address safety-related complaints from more extreme and perma-
nent forms of hair removal.
Techniques such as laser hair removal require skilled and well-trained
operators, using carefully controlled medical devices that have been
thoroughly vetted by regulatory agencies and manufactured to International
Organization of Standardization (ISO) quality standards. Electrolysis is
another procedure requiring a sophisticated medical device to remove hair
and prevent the regrowth of hair follicles.1 These devices provide an electric
current that produces a chemical reaction within hair cells to render their
function inert.1
Things get even more interesting for consumers wanting more or better
hair. The regulatory menu of possibilities in this case is larger and includes
accessories such as brushes and rollers; cosmetics such as shampoos,
conditioners, styling products and hair dyes; medical devices, i.e., various
radiation-emitting devices to encourage hair growth; dietary supplements
containing “hair food”; and topical drugs that promote eyelash and hair
growth, treat dandruff, etc. In these cases, enforcement actions from regula-
tors might address safety-related complaints, environmental concerns and
promotional claims made about products.
It is worth noting that the complaints regulators face in hair growth/
removal and other categories often arise from non-governmental
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
© 2015 Allured Business Media.
Intelligent
Hydration

DuraQuench IQ SA
TM
 Long lasting hydration
 Temperature and humidity responsive
Discover an innovative approach to effective moisturization through Croda’s  Protects against the drying effects of
moisturizing complex, DuraQuench IQ SA. Its dual mechanism optimizes skin soaps and detergents
moisturization by the formation of an intelligent structural layer on the surface
of the skin, while regulating water loss from within by reinforcing the skin’s
 Visible improvement in skin dryness
natural barrier.  Consumer-perceivable scalp and hair
New data shows DuraQuench IQ SA can deliver effective skin and scalp results
moisturization from rinse-off systems. In addition, DuraQuench IQ SA offers  Effective in both leave-on and rinse-off
hair care formulators consumer-perceivable hair conditioning benefits. systems
US patent pending

Visit us at www.crodapersonalcare.com

North America marketing-usa@croda.com

Europe, Middle East & Africa pc-europe@croda.com
Latin America marketinglatam@croda.com
Asia Pacific pc-asia@croda.com

Innovation you can build on

TM
Regulatory | C&T
organizations (NGOs). Such non-profit groups
have strong voices on issues of human health and
environmental safety, and aim to promote regulatory
changes and influence consumer purchases. Outside
of government regulation, these organizations
assist in informing consumers of regulatory policy
debates and providing information on products
and ingredients. However, their effectiveness is
sometimes dependent upon ill-informed consum-
ers. Indeed, NGOs have influenced choices for
hair dye ingredients, preservatives and the use of
siloxanes—all of which have also been scrutinized by
governmental bodies.
Experts are concerned
over adequate product
preservation, especially
with narrowing options.
Hair Dye Oversight
In terms of safety, hair dyes have been subjected
to a great deal of regulation. Numerous publications
have expressed concern about increased bladder
cancer rates among hair styling professionals.2
Interestingly, due to a scientific study published in
2001 titled, “Use of permanent hair dyes and blad-
der cancer risk,” European Union (EU) Regulation
No. 1197/2013 came into effect, in which Annex III
restricted the use levels of some 21 hair dyes.3
Health Canada specifically plans to re-examine
coal tar dyes, and Canada’s Chemical Manage-
ment Plan has other ingredients flagged for further
assessment. These ingredients are under safety data
review, which may amount to further restrictions on
the Canadian Hotlist. If so, similar to EU Regula-
tion No. 1197/2013, Canada may employ maximum
permitted concentrations, or other restrictions.
Regarding U.S. hair-dye regulations, coal tar
dyes are included under the federal Food, Drug and
Cosmetic (FD&C) Act (Chapter VII, section 721).4
Astoundingly, these dyes are excluded from the U.S.
Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) approval
process, which is required for colorants to be used in
food, drugs and cosmetics.5
Adulteration provisions held under the FD&C Act
prohibit any product from containing chemicals that
may cause harm to a consumer.6 Coal tar-based hair
dyes are exempted from adulteration provisions but
are prescribed by law to include labels with caution-
ary statements and “patch-test” instructions.4 Other
dyes for eyelashes or eyebrows are not a part of the
18 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
exemption6 and would therefore require approval by
the FDA for their designated use.
Interestingly, the exemption of coal tar dyes dates
back to 1938, when the Food and Drugs Act of 1906
was replaced by the FD&C Act.7 This law introduced
cosmetics to the Act and included the need for them
to consider consumer safety. Controversially, coal tar
hair dyes manufactured at that time were noted to
cause allergic side effects.7 As the FDA prepared to
release the new law, which would likely have banned
the sale of hair dyes due to these health concerns, the
industry lobbied and successfully exempted coal tar
dyes from the adulteration provisions.7
Preservative Challenges
Industry experts regularly express concerns
over the ability to adequately preserve water-based
products, especially with the ever-narrowing menu
of preservative options. Many hair cleaning and
enhancing products are water-based, making them a
big challenge for preservation. Not long ago, parabens
were the first and best choice for preservation but
thanks to endless misinformation campaigns, they
are being squeezed from formulations even in the
face of data that proves their safety and usefulness.
Further, methylisothiazolinone (MIT) is to be
banned from most leave-on products as the EU Cos-
metics Directive is amended.8 Canada also appears to
be making strides to remove MIT from formulations.8
Polyaminopropyl biguanide is another preserva-
tive that has officially been classified according to
Article 15 (1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 as
carcinogenic, mutagenic and toxic to reproduction
(CMR2).9 This classification took effect on Jan. 1,
2015, and prohibits the use of this material as a
cosmetic ingredient.9 On a positive note, free-from
claims are falling out of favor in the EU, and formal
restrictions to their use may follow.
Siloxane Restrictions
In terms of environmental challenges, siloxanes
have come front and center. Consumers benefit
tremendously from the use of silicone-based hair
conditioning ingredients, and formulators love them
for their highly effective conditioning properties,
stability and lack of reaction with other ingredients
or oxygen.
However, Canada and more recently the EU have
raised concerns about cyclotetrasiloxane (D4 siloxane
or D4) and cyclopentasiloxane (D5 siloxane or D5),
which have become ubiquitous and extremely impor-
tant ingredients in the hair care industry. On Jan. 31,
2009, Environment Canada and Health Canada
released a final “screening assessment” for D5.10 This
assessment concluded this substance impacted the
environment, and the ministers of health and the
environment recommended the chemical be added to
the Toxic Substances List of the Canadian Environ-
mental Protection Act (CEPA).10
Affected industry stakeholders filed a notice of
objection, reasoning that the assessment of D5 was
not inclusive to the best available science and that the
previous analysis relied heavily on models that had
limitations and likely inaccuracies.10 The industry also
designed and commissioned a scientific study that
proved the environmental safety of these ingredients.
Eventually, Environment Canada reversed its
Whether the consumer wants to rid themselves
of hair, have more of it, or simply change their look,
few segments of the beauty industry fall under a more
complex scientific and regulatory landscape than
hair care.
References
All websites accessed May 15, 2015.
1. www.electrology.com/faqs-about-permanent-hair-removal/
2. www.cancerresearchuk.org/cancer-info/cancerstats/types/
bladder/riskfactors/bladder-cancer-risk-factors

decision under the new data from the independent 3. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/1097-

study, which gave Canadian regulators comfort in
terms of the environmental impact of D5 siloxane,
although questions remain for D4 siloxane and its
environmental impact. In the United States, the
Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded
D4 to be safe for use as a cosmetic ingredient, and
safe for its extensive function in hair products. This
ingredient is still under question in the EU.11
Hair Growth Therapeutics
0215(200002)9999:9999%3C::AID-IJC1092%3E3.0.CO;2-S/
full
4. www.fda.gov/AboutFDA/WhatWeDo/History/CentennialofFDA/
CentennialEditionofFDAConsumer/ucm093787.htm
5. NE Estrin, The Cosmetic Industry: Scientific and Regulatory
Foundations, CRC Press (1984)
6. www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/Labeling/Regulations/ucm126438.htm
7. www.margiepatlak.com/hair_dye.pdf
8. www.medicaldaily.com/chemical-irritant-cosmetics-banned-
europe-mit-leads-epidemic-skin-allergies-eczema-265379
9. http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_
safety/docs/sccs_q_095.pdf

Male pattern baldness, alopecia and short, thin 10. http://ehsjournal.org/http:/ehsjournal.org/robert-fishlock/canada-

eyelashes are clear cases where individuals lack hair.
These issues belong to the dietary supplement, drug
and cosmetics industries, which is where things
become complicated. Countless topical “cosmetic”
environment-canada-reverses-siloxane-d5-decision/2011/
11. www.cyclosiloxanes.org/uploads/Modules/Links/17.-cyclomethi-
cones-final-cir-report.pdf
12. www.adstandards.com/en/clearance/cosmetics/Guidelines-for-
the-Nonprescription-and-Cosmetic-Industry.pdf

products have been introduced to the market in the

hopes of solving the need for more hair. Some are
based on “natural” ingredients, which give market-
ers the false impression that can freely market them
without regulatory oversight. However, if a topical
product truly works to stimulate hair growth, there’s
nothing cosmetic about it.
In 2011, the FDA made a point of enforcing regu-
lations against products promoting eyelash growth,
although the claims on a hair treatment product or
mascara product—i.e., fuller, thicker hair/lashes and
more hair/lashes—blur the drug/cosmetic line.12 It is
at this interface where marketing departments and
their regulatory and legal advisors spend a great deal
of time.
Finally, no discussion of improving hair quality
or quantity would be complete without recognizing
the attempts marketers have made at orally ingested
nutritional products, often referred to as Beauty
from Within (BFW) or nutricosmetics. Aside from
whether or not these products work, the regula-
tory oversight is complex and without a hint of
global harmonization. In some jurisdictions, these
products are regulated similarly to foods; in others,
more like drugs. From the consumer’s perspective,
these products have never really taken off. The
speculation is that consumers do not immediately
see or feel the benefit, and manufacturers see steep
regulatory limitations.

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 19

 Research | C&T

Shaving and its Effects on

Percutaneous Absorption
in the Skin*
Muhammad Hamza
University of California, San Francisco, and
Dow University of Health Sciences, Karachi, Pakistan
Howard I. Maibach, M.D.
University of California, San Francisco

KEY WORDS
penetration • dyes • skin
absorption • hair removal •
stratum corneum •
damage • axillary •
shaving • razor
ABSTRACT
Despite its being an area
of concern for many
years, the percutaneous
absorption of cosmetics
has not been rigorously
studied. Additionally, the
effects of shaving on this
process are relatively
unknown. An overview of
recent research reveals
that more research in this
area is required.
Save to
My Library
P
ercutaneous penetration has been a concern of the cosmetics industry
dating back to the 1970s, yet it remains an area of limited research.
Specifically, its effects on shaving have not been studied in depth, so
we conducted an overview to ascertain the relation between percutaneous
penetration and shaving, and the effect of shaving on the stratum corneum
(SC); especially as it relates to risk assessment and cosmetic use.
Method
More than 500 research articles were reviewed in databases including
Pub Med, Scopus, Google Scholar, Cochrane Library and other pertinent
journals. Data from the most relevant articles was studied, compared and
organized to draw conclusions regarding the effects of shaving on percuta-
neous penetration.
Results and Discussion
Little is known about the biological effects of shaving, although it is
known that physical effects on the SC, and physiological effects on the
epidermis and dermis are encountered. For example, 20% of the material
removed during male facial shaving comprises skin; the remainder is hair.1
Also, two processes are known to influence barrier properties following
shaving: increased epidermal hyperproliferation, which occurs due to
chronic shaving;2, 3 and direct physical damage to the SC by scratching and
friction, which also has been shown in raised perifollicular areas.3
In relation, Marti et al.4 used image analysis of the SC surface both pre-
and post- shaving to both demonstrate immediate damage to the cornified
layer, as well as assess the role of shaving on antiperspirant use. Pre-shaving
of the volar forearm, followed by a standard 47-hr patch test, revealed
that compared with unshaven skin, antiperspirant irritancy increased
significantly (see Figure 1 on Page 23) and was the major effect—although
damage to the SC also was detected. Hence, they investigated the effect of
shaving on a pro-inflammatory stimulus using histamine iontophoresis in
conjunction with dry shaving.
Histamine iontophoresis was performed immediately after shaving,
with two control sites adjacent to the shaved sites. Itch perception increased
*Adapted from M Hamza and HI Maibach, Shaving effects on percutaneous penetration: Clinical
implications, Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology (in press)

Reproduction in English or any other language of

20 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
© 2015 Allured Business Media.
Research | C&T
significantly at the shaved sites, compared with the
control sites. These authors concluded that damage
to the surface barrier properties allowed for the
increased entry of irritant molecules. Thus, shaving
had profound effects on the inflammatory response
of the epidermis and the structure of the SC.
Lucova et al.5 studied damage to the skin bar-
rier due to shaving in relation to the permeation
of chemicals. They assessed the dermal absorption
values of two dyes—Brilliant Blue and Patent Blue—
through shaven pig’s ear skin, compared with intact
pig ear skin. The shaving process manifested in a
noticeable permeation of both dyes into deeper com-
partments of the diffusion system from three dosing
model products: after-shave, facial cleanser and an
o/w emulsion. Further, Lucova’s group observed that
both dyes penetrated most from the ethanol-based
after-shave.
This study showed that shaving caused a slight
decrease in the thickness of full-thickness pig-
ear skin (FTS) as well as a significant increase in
transdermal electrical conductivity (TEC) values,
compared with intact FTS. The authors thus con-
cluded the normal process of shaving markedly
enhanced the potential for systemic availability of
both dyes from hydrophilic vehicles. This finding was
considered alarming, with respect to the number of
after-shave skin treatments containing dyes.
Turner et al.6 assessed the impact of shaving on
underarm skin by measuring the thickness of the
axillary vault and fossa in 16 subjects using Optical
Coherence Tomography (OCT). Measurements
taken from the shaved and unshaved areas showed
an increased epidermal thickness in the shaved
areas. In relation, the researchers assessed the effects
of histamine iontophoresis in the vault and fossa
of both axillae of nine volunteers, who had shaved
both axillae two days prior to the study, and one
axilla immediately prior to iontophoresis. Histamine
iontophoresis in the vault and axilla area resulted in
an increase in both wheals and flaring in the shaved
axilla, compared with the unshaven control. This sup-
ports previous studies showing that shaving axillary
Market Intelligence
n According to Nicole Tyrimou, of Euromonitor
International, men’s grooming is expected to
become a $42.2 billion industry by 2018, a
cumulative 20% higher than its current value.
Shaving will remain just under half of that, with
razors and blades the largest category.
Source: GCI (GCImagazine.com)
22 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
skin can damage the epidermal barrier,4 and that
shaved skin demonstrates increased itch and ery-
thema following iontophoretic delivery of histamine.7
Turner et al. thus concluded that axillary shaving
results in the removal of skin and increased potential
for irritation and itch. Moreover, the axillary vault
showed a greater thickening in the epidermis than the
unshaved area of the fossa. The response to histamine
iontophoresis in the shaved axilla was greater than
that of unshaved skin, which suggested shaving
causes damage to epidermal barrier.
Banerjee and Ritschel8 studied the effect of shav-
ing on the transdermal permeation of a vasopressin
solution using female Sprague-Dawley rats. The
rat skin was shaved with an electric shaver one day
before the study, after a preliminary clipping of hair
before excision. A five-fold increase in vasopressin
flux was observed due to shaving, and its lag time was
reduced significantly in comparison with hair clip-
ping only. This showed the shaved skin was partially
damaged and demonstrates that the SC is one of
the main barriers to the permeation of vasopressin.
These results are consistent with those of Bruger and
Flexner,9 who demonstrated an increase in insulin
permeation due to shaving.
Guo et al.10 examined the effects of shaving on the
penetration of cyclosporin A into skin using Kun-
ming mice. In a first group of mice, hair was trimmed
short with a pair of scissors. In a second group, to
alter the integrity of the SC, hair was shaved. Flexible
and conventional vesicles containing cyclosporin A
were then administered topically to each group.
Results showed a larger amount of cyclosporin A
transferred into the bloodstream by the flexible
vesicles in the shaved skin mice, demonstrating that
shaving decreased the integrity of the mouse skin SC.
Lastly, Maibach and Wester11 performed a urinary
excretion experiment with female rhesus monkeys.
Here, absorption is quantified based on the radio-
activity levels measured in urine excreted for five
days following the application of a known amount
of labeled compound to the skin. The monkeys were
placed in a specially designed metabolic chair for
the first 24 hr, during which time testosterone and
hydrocortisone were applied topically on the ventral
forearm. The effect of shaving was then tested by
lightly depilating the area with an electric razor.
Urinary excretion data was obtained. Results showed
no difference between shaved and unshaved skin in
the percutaneous absorption of testosterone.
Conclusion
Several investigations described in the literature
suggest that shaving alters the rapid penetration of
various ingredients into skin, possibly through shunts
but not in mass-transport, as indicated by Wester’s
 Figure 1. The irritation potential range of antiperspirant aerosol bases under patch 47 hr, both
in pre-shaved and unshaved control skin; adapted from Reference 7

urinary excretion experiment. Shaving also destroys 10. J Guo, Q Ping, G Sun and C Jiao, Lecithin vesicular carriers for
transdermal delivery of cyclosporin A, Int J Pharmaceutics 194,
the barrier integrity of the SC, which increases 201–207 (2000)
penetration and exaggerates the skin’s itch perception 11. RC Wester and HI Maibach, Percutaneous absorption in the
and erythemic response. Thus, the full clinical effects rhesus monkey compared to man, Tox and Appl Pharmacol 32,
394-398 (1975)
of shaving on percutaneous penetration have yet to
be determined. We therefore suggest further research
to better understand the effects of shaving on percu-
taneous absorption. This should include examining
chemical classes of varying physiochemical proper-
ties, species, shaving and pre- and post-shaving
methods, as well as anatomic sites.

References
1. HR Elden, Advances in understanding mechanisms of shaving,
Cosm & Toil 100 (1985)
2. DR Kavaliunas, S Nact and RE Bogardus, Men’s skin care
needs, Cosm & Toil 100 9-32 (1985)
3. C Bhaktaviziam, H Mescon and AG Matoltsy, Study of skin and
shaving, Arch Derm 88 242–247 (1963)
4. AK Holbrook and FG Odland, Regional differences in the
thickness (cell layers) of the human stratum corneum: An
ultrastructural analysis, J Invest Derm 62(4) (1974)
5. M Lucova, J Hojerova, S Pazourekova and Z Klimova, Absorp-
tion of triphenylmethane dyes Brilliant Blue and Patent Blue
through intact skin, shaven skin and lingual mucosa from daily
life products, Food and Chemical Toxicology 52 19–27 (2013)
6. GA Turner, AE Moore, VPJ Marti, SE Paterson and AG James,
Impact of shaving and antiperspirant use on the axillary vault, Int
J Cos Sci 29 31–38 (2007)
7. VPJ Marti, RS Lee, AE Moore, SE Paterson, A Watkinson and
AV Rawlings, Effect of shaving on axillary stratum corneum, Int J
Cos Sci 25 193–198 (2003)
8. PS Banerjee and WA Ritschel, Transdermal permeation of vaso-
pressin. I. Influence of pH, concentration, shaving and surfactant
on in vitro permeation, Int J Pharmaceutics 49 189–197 (1989)
9. M Bruger and J Flexner, Integrity of the skin in relation to cutane-
ous absorption of insulin, Proc Soc Exp Biol Med 35 429–432
(1936)

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 23


A Review of
Novel Cleansing and
Conditioning Systems
Melissa Tolla, Ph.D.
Tolla Consultants, Naperville, IL, USA
KEY WORDS
hair • aerosol • dry
shampoo • cleansing
conditioner • BB
shampoo/conditioner •
CC cream/conditioner
ABSTRACT
Cleansing and conditioning
are basic steps in a typical
hair care routine, and
efforts are continually
under way to develop novel
and improved systems for
such functions—especially
considering various
consumer lifestyles and
hair types. This brief review
highlights a few recent
advances in trending hair
cleansing and conditioning
systems.
Save to
My Library
Reproduction in English or any other language of
24 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
Research | C&T
C
leansing and conditioning are basic steps in a typical hair care
routine, and efforts are continually under way to develop novel and
improved systems for such functions—especially in response to
demand from consumers who require products tailored for various life-
styles and to different hair types. This brief review highlights a few recent
advances in trending hair cleansing and conditioning systems.
Dry Shampoos
Dry shampoos do not use water to clean hair. These absorbent powder
compositions provide an alternative to traditional liquid-based shampoos.1, 2
To clean hair, the dry powder is sprinkled onto greasy hair, allowing it to
contact the fiber surface for a predetermined amount of time and subse-
quently removed by brushing. These shampoos initially were not popular
with consumers, as they were inefficient at cleansing hair and left behind
undesirable sensory attributes.
These shampoos generally contained three types of ingredients: absorb-
ers of fatty compounds, e.g., starch, clay or talc; abrasive materials such as
silica to remove soils; and an alkali agent, e.g., boric acid or sodium carbon-
ate. Attempts also were made to suspend the powders in volatile solvents to
create a sprayable product.3 However, technical hurdles such as incomplete
sebum removal or incomplete elimination of the powder by brushing, along
with regulatory issues—i.e., the banning of chlorofluorocarbon propellants,
prevented the commercialization of a finished product meeting all the
customer requirements.
Then in the 1970s, Pierre Fabre launched a dry shampoo under the
Klorane brand, whose novelty was in the use of a mixed hydrocarbon
propellant system and micronized powders to absorb sebum and oils.4
Today’s formula contains silica, β-cyclodextrin and modified starch,
along with various plant material and emollients for added benefits.
Recently, other brands launched dry shampoos as line extensions in order to
address new consumer demands and various lifestyles.5-11
According to a Mintel study, dry shampoos made up 5% of all new
shampoo products in the United States the first half of 2014, compared
with 1% of all new shampoo products in 2009.12 Dry shampoos in aerosol
formats have grown due to advances in aerosol powder valve technolo-
gies,13 among others.9-10 Modern dry shampoos contain particulate material
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
© 2015 Allured Business Media.
such as starch, modified starch, talc and silicone
elastomers, capable of adsorbing and/or absorbing
sebum and oils.5-11 They may be aqueous formulas but
a majority of commercial products are non-aqueous
based cleansing compositions utilizing conventional
propellants. Silica may be used as an anti-caking
agent in the formula. Some commercial products
even contain color, emollients and silicone derivatives
for added benefits, which distinguishes them from
other cleansing products.
Cleansing Conditioners
The surfactants used in shampoos can be harsh on
hair, removing essential oils and leaving the hair dry,
dull and unmanageable. They may also extract hair
dye from the fiber, thereby reducing the longevity of
the color. Conditioners help to make hair shiny and
manageable; however, some cause excessive build-
up on hair. In response, cleansing conditioners or
shampoo conditioners were developed containing
little or no surfactant.1 These are intended primarily
to enhance the detangling of wet hair and to improve
the manageability of both wet and dry hair while
cleaning and conditioning. In contrast, conditioning
shampoos mainly are intended to clean hair while
secondarily leaving hair manageable.
The development of cleansing conditioners or
shampoo conditioners also began in the late 1970s,
around the same time 2-in-1 conditioning shampoos
were entering the market.14, 15 Early conditioning
shampoos were based on water-soluble cationic resins
but were inefficient detanglers. Modern cleansing
conditioners, however, are multifunctional and can
replace shampoos, conditioners, detanglers, leave-in
conditioners and deep conditioners.16
Current commercial products do not contain
primary surfactants but may contain secondary
surfactant(s) to provide a small amount of lather.
These are intended to be alternated with regular
shampoos and conditioners, to lessen their drying
effects. Notably, the amount of cleansing conditioner
applied to hair is typically three to four times more
than a traditional shampoo—even more for long hair.
These formulas are reported to be ideal for thick or
curly hair as they help to retain moisture. Like other
commercial products, many cleansing conditioners
are also available as sulfate-free and paraben-free, and
protect hair color from fading.
According to a recent Mintel study, multi-benefit
products are gaining traction in the hair care cat-
egory, which is consistent with trends in the skin
care and color cosmetics categories.12 In particular,
cleansing conditioners generate the highest levels of
enthusiasm, with more than half (58%) of hair care
users reporting interest (see Figure 1). The develop-
ment of hair cleansing conditioners cleaning hair
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair
without stripping essential oils or hair color repre-
sents an improvement in the field of hair treatments
and satisfies a long felt consumer need.
Alphabet Hair Care
Alphabet products have crossed the store aisle
from skin care into hair care, and “BB” and “CC”
formulations are now appearing in the form of
multifunctional shampoos, conditioners, hair creams
Multi-benefit products
are gaining traction in
the hair care category,
which is consistent
with the skin and color
cosmetic categories.
and sprays. These multi-tasking products combine
a variety of ingredients in one product the same
way traditional blemish or beauty balm (BB) and
color correcting (CC) creams combine skin care
and makeup ingredients to deliver multiple benefits.
These products tend to have different viscosities.17
The meanings behind “BB” and “CC” vary in hair
care; for example, beauty balm and beauty boost-
ing (BB), and color care, complete care, complete
correction or conditioning concentrate (CC). BB and
CC hair care products claim to provide from 3-, up to
10-in-1 multi-tasking solutions for healthy hair. For
example, they cleanse, repair, strengthen, smooth,
protect against UV damage, improve shine, control
frizz control, manage hair, detangle and moisturize.
One particular Beauty Boosting shampoo and
conditioner formula claims to provide 10 solutions
Market Intelligence
According to Mintel:
n Dry shampoo is no longer an emerging segment;
it is becoming a must-have for mainstream
hair care.
n When it comes to anti-aging ingredients in hair
care, almost half (46%) of UK consumers are
interested in using them and an additional 19%
would pay more for them.
Source: GCI (GCImagazine.com)
Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 25
Research | C&T
for flawlessly healthy hair.
This product contains a Figure 1. U.S. consumer preferences for hair care product
buffer system and chelant, formats; base: 1,903 Internet users ages 18+ who use hair care
trisodium ethylene diamine products; reproduced from Reference 13
disuccinate, that inhibits
mineral deposit buildup
on hair.18 The buffer and
chelant combination also
prevents copper ions,
which are naturally present
in water, from damaging
hair proteins.19
Other products incor-
porate a variety of specialty
ingredients in their for-
mulas—some traditionally
used in skin care. A look at
the ingredient statements
on their labels reveals the
use of Linum usitatissimum
(linseed) seed oil, Cartha-
mus tinctorius (safflower)
seed oil, Hypnea musciformis extract, Gellidiela The same study by Mintel12 (see Figure 1) shows
acerosa extract, Mentha arvensis leaf oil, hydrolyzed 45% of U.S. hair care users are interested in BB and/or
keratin, hydrolyzed elastin, collagen, trehalose, CC hair products. Such alphabet hair care products are
omega-3 fatty acids and caviar extract. designed for consumers who desire beautiful hair but
do not have time for multiple conditioning treatments.
The increasing number of commercial products in
this new category is an indication of continuing efforts
under way to develop novel and improved cleansing
and conditioning systems tailored to the needs of
different hair types and various lifestyles.

Hair Wipes, Food

Although less prominent in the literature, hair
wipes20-25 are a novel product form worth noting. For
example, one patent20 discloses oil-absorbing wipes
for skin or hair comprising an oil-absorbing, porous
film-like substrate of a thermoplastic material having
a transparency of less than 65. This substrate changes
transparency when loaded with oil. The wipes may
also contain or be coated with active or inactive ingre-
dients for delivering benefits to the skin or hair during
and after oil removal and cleansing. One commercial
example is the Ted Gibson Hair Sheet, which can be
used on the surface of dry hair to calm frizz, refresh,
and add shine.
Another new area is food crossing into hair care.
The Hair Food collection by P&G’s Clairol brand, for
example, is a root cleansing shampoo infused with
strawberry and ginger fragrance. It will be interesting
to see what direction this developing category takes.

Conclusion
Consumer demand for cleansing and conditioning
systems to meet the needs of different hair types and

26 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

lifestyles is plentiful. Efforts to develop novel cleansing
and conditioning systems are ongoing and result in new
product forms, sparking the interest of U.S. customers, as
the market research indicates.

References
1. JB Wilkinson and RJ Moore, Harry’s Cosmeticology, 7th edn, Chemical
Publishing Co, New York (1982)
2. US Pat 1,208,069, Dry shampoo composition, J Wittwer, assigned to
J Wittwer (Apr 19, 1915)
3. US Pat 4,035,267, Dry shampoo using chitin powder, G Gleckler and
J Goebel, assigned to American Cyanamid Company (Aug 30, 1976)
4. WO Pat 96/00563, Phytogenic dry shampoo, M Jeanjean, N Senegas
and B Fabre, assigned to Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique (Jan 11,
1996)
5. US Pat App 20140000642, Aerosol composition comprising a par-
ticulate tapioca starch, DF Swaile, JV Torres Rivera and ME Thomas,
assigned to The Procter & Gamble Co (Jun 27, 2013)
6. US Pat App 20140000643, Aerosol composition comprising a par-
ticulate tapioca starch, DF Swaile, JV Torres Rivera and ME Thomas,
assigned to The Procter & Gamble Co (Jun 27, 2013)
7. US Pat App 20140283865, Hair cleaning kit, AR Avery, E Khoshdel,
JT Petkov and G Roberts, assigned to Hindustan Unilever Ltd (Aug 19,
2011)
8. US Pat App 20120282190, Compositions, methods and kits compris-
ing a dry shampoo, JD Hammer, assigned to Pharmosol Corp (Oct 27,
2010)
9. WO Pat App 2014177649, Aerosol device based on sebum-absorbing
powder and calcium carbonate, J Gawtrey, N Smail and N Beau,
assigned to L’Oréal (Apr 30, 2013)
10. WO Pat App 2014177647, Multi-diffusion-orifice aerosol device for dry
washing the hair, L Aubert, J Gawtrey, N Beau and N Smail, assigned
to L’Oréal (April 30, 2013)
11. WO Pat App 2011019539, Granulated dry cleanser for the care of
keratinous substrates, CS Bernet, S Creutz, S Postiaux and F Vande-
meulebroucke, assigned to Dow Corning Corp (Aug 13, 2009)
12. S Romanowski, Shampoo, Conditioner and Hair Styling Products—US,
Mintel report (Apr 2014)
13. www.lindalgroup.com/news/news/article/powered-by-lindal-aerosol-
solutions-the-dry-shampoo-category-continues-to-grow.html
(Accessed Mar 10, 2015)
14. US Pat 3,990,991, Shampoo conditioner formulas, T Gerstein,
assigned to Revlon Inc (Feb 1, 1974)
15. US Pat 4,333,921, Hair cleansing conditioner with lathering action,
OB Luedicke, T Domzalski and D Zajac, assigned to American Cyana-
mid Company (Oct 2, 1980)
16. US Pat 6,723,309, Hair cleansing conditioner, JA Deane, assigned to
JA Deane (Apr 20, 2004)
17. www.webmd.com/beauty/makeup/beauty-balms-bb-creams
(Accessed Apr 2, 2015)
18. US Pat App 20130174863, Hair care compositions, JM Marsh,
HD Hutton, KL Doyle and JE Hilvert, assigned to The Procter & Gamble
Co (Jul 11, 2013)
19. JM Marsh et al, Role of copper in photochemical damage of hair, Int J
Cos Sci 36 32-38 (2014)
20. www.google.com/patents/US6645611 (Accessed May 12, 2015)
21. www.google.com/patents/US6773718 (Accessed May 12, 2015)
22. www.freepatentsonline.com/y2010/0158986.html (Accessed May 12,
2015)
23. www.freepatentsonline.com/y2011/0088711.html (Accessed May 12,
2015)
24. www.patentbuddy.com/Patent/20140283865 (Accessed May 12,
2015)
25. www.freepatentsonline.com/20150034116.pdf (Accessed May 12,
2015)

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 27


Beating the
Damaging Effects of
Heat on Hair
T.A Evans Inc., Princeton, NJ
KEY WORDS
hair • heat • effect •
structure • conditioning •
damage • repair
ABSTRACT
Heat treatments are
among the more popular
methods for achieving
straight hair, yet their high
temperatures are quite
damaging to the hair’s
structures. Learn about
the damaging effects
and suggested solutions
for repairing heat-
damaged hair.
Save to
My Library
Reproduction in English or any other language of
28 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
Testing | C&T
Trefor A. Evans, PhD
A
rguably the hottest topic (pardon the pun) throughout the hair
care world in the past five years has been heat protection. This new
consumer proposition is likely in response to an increased incidence
in the use of heat styling devices, which has accompanied fashion trends
toward very straight hair styles. In addition to the creation of desired new
styles, straightening irons produce a number of other short-term hair
benefits. Freshly heat-straightened hair feels soft and smooth; possessing a
high level of shine; frizz is minimized1 and the newly styled hair moves in
an attractive, flowing motion. Only later, when these benefits wear off, do
the cumulative effects of this rather harsh process materialize—as the hair
can become rough, fragile and unruly.
The damaging nature of this process appears to be recognized by
consumers; yet for many, the benefits overwhelmingly outweigh the nega-
tives—and the onus for their actions is passed on to product manufacturers
in terms of demands for products, which will “protect” the hair during this
practice.
The Science of Heat Styling
Heat styling makes use of what is commonly termed the water-set
process. In short, water is a plasticizer for hair and accordingly its removal
creates additional internal structuring, which is often sufficient to anchor
temporary styles. Ideally these styles would last until the hair is re-wetted at
the next washing; but in reality, induced changes progressively relax as hair
gradually re-adsorbs water from the atmosphere to a level commensurate
with the relative humidity of the environment.2
While it may seem that straightening or curling irons need only to
attain, or slightly surpass, the boiling point of water to induce these
transformations, heat styling devices typically employ considerably higher
temperatures, frequently reaching as high as 230°C (≈450°F). It can easily
be demonstrated that increased efficacy accompanies higher iron tempera-
tures. Figure 1 shows the shape of ringlets that were created by employing
progressively higher curling iron temperatures.
Clearly, tighter curls can be created using higher temperatures—
although all conditions are considerably above water’s boiling point. A
seemingly logical explanation involves the enhancement in water’s evapora-
tion rate, which would accompany higher iron temperatures.
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
© 2015 Allured Business Media.
Testing | C&T
Differential Scanning
Calorimetry (DSC) Market Intelligence
Insights into the nature of events occurring dur-
n The success of all-in-one cosmetic solutions
ing heat treatment can be obtained using Differential
Scanning Calorimetry (DSC). Thermodynamics such as blemish balm (BB) and color-correcting
teaches that every chemical or physical transformation (CC) creams are being mimicked in hair care with
is accompanied by a transfer of energy. This energy products claiming anti-breakage, heat protection
may be adsorbed in an endothermic event or released and UV protection.
n The hair care market is expected to surpass
during an exothermic process. DSC provides a means
of observing and quantifying such events. Figure 2 $57 million in 2015. This growth is driven in part
shows a sample DSC thermogram for hair, which was by the consumer trend for individualism, which
obtained using a 5°C/min temperature program. many consumers achieve using heat-styling
The most prominent feature is a broad downward appliances such as curling irons and hair dryers.
(endothermic) peak, beginning slightly above 100°C Source: GCI (GCImagazine.com)
and reaching a maximum drop at around 150°C. This
represents the evapora-
tion of water from the
hair. As mentioned ear- Figure 1. The effect of progressively higher curling iron temperatures
lier, water evaporates at on heat styling efficacy; 170°C (A), 190°C (B) and 210°C (C)
100°C, but these experi-
ments are performed
in sealed sample pans,
wherein evaporating
water builds up in the
head space and some-
what retards further
evaporation in accor-
dance with Le Chatelier’s
Principle. As a result,
this transition occurs
somewhat above where
A. B. C.
one may suspect.
The next observ-
able event is a sharp
endothermic peak at
approximately 230°C, Figure 2. DSC thermogram for hair
which represents
thermal denaturation of
hair’s alpha-helical pro-
tein structure. Finally,
a further peak at 240°C
signifies the decompo-
sition temperature of
hair protein—a process
which is less scien-
tifically detected by the
development of an
especially objectionable
odor in the labora-
tory. This experiment
illustrates why the tem-
peratures employed in
commercial heat-styling
appliances generally
top-out at 230°C.

30 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

Thermal Imaging Cameras pre-conditioned hair at very low humidity and where
The heat settings on commercial devices are the moisture content is minimal. On the other hand,
termed closed-face temperatures by their manufactur- there is no characteristic noxious odor to indicate
ers. These represent the reading obtained when a thermal decomposition.
thermocouple is placed directly between the device’s The commonly held 240°C decomposition
plates. Yet, the temperature attained by the hair itself temperature for hair specifically refers to its pro-
is more important to the hair scientist. In an attempt tein content, which represents around 90% of the
to gain insight, our team used a thermal imaging hair structure; the remaining 10% consists of lipid
camera to approximate the temperature of hair materials. Moreover, the smaller organic molecules
during heat straightening. Figure 3 shows an image comprising the lipid structures will possess con-
captured from such an experiment, wherein hair siderably lower decomposition and volatilization
tresses were straightened using an iron with a 230°C temperatures. Therefore, it is theorized that this lipid
closed-face temperature. structure of hair and its components are consider-
Testing consistently showed the hair often attain- ably disrupted by these temperatures—even if the
ing temperatures ~15°C less than the iron setting. For proteins are not. This volatilization or decomposition
example, heat straightening with an iron set at 230°C of lipid species should be detectable by DSC experi-
would produce a maximum hair temperature of ments; although it is entirely possible these events are
approximately 215°C. In short, even when using the masked beneath the large, broad water evaporation
highest appliance settings, it would appear that hair peak (see Figure 2).
temperatures remain appreciably below that which In support of this presumption, our team used gas
would be necessary for decomposition. Therefore, in chromatography, coupled with mass spectrometry
theory at least, it may be suspected that such tem- (GC-MS), to perform headspace analysis after hair
peratures are not especially worrisome. samples were heated to differing temperatures in
sealed vials. The results showed the presence of a
Hair Damage large number of volatile species, even when using
Perhaps the most straightforward approach for temperatures considerably below hair’s conventional
assessing hair damage involves single-fiber tensile decomposition temperature. The identification of
testing experiments.3 The mechanical properties of these materials is ongoing, but evidently the atmo-
hair fibers are a direct consequence of their complex sphere is rich in composition.
internal make-up, and therefore any decline in hair
strength is indicative of disruptions to this structure.
Hair Breakage
Figure 4 shows wet-state break stress results from A dramatic and startling manifestation of heat
experiments, which investigated the effect of both damage can be observed when performing repetitive
straightening iron temperatures and the number of grooming experiments to study hair breakage. This
heat passes on hair strength. Undoubtedly, the tensile common method was discussed previously4 and
properties of hair can be
considerably compromised
Figure 3. Thermal imaging assessing hair temperatures during
by these treatments—with
heat straightening
higher iron temperatures
producing the most dam-
age. Again, these sizable
effects arise even though
hair apparently remains
well below the decomposi-
tion temperature.
When heat-treating
hair tresses at higher
temperatures, it is common
to observe volatiles emitted
from hair. Consumers
often describe this as
the hair “smoking.” Such
emissions can be theorized
as simply water—yet this
occurrence persists even in

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 31

Testing | C&T
involves periodically counting the number of broken The third set of data in Figure 5 shows the marked
fibers generated as a function of prolonged auto- increase in breakage arising after the hair reverted
mated grooming. Figure 5 shows results from a study to something approximating its initial shape. This
intended to show the effects of heat straightening on reversion process was facilitated by exposing the hair
hair breakage. to 90% relative humidity for 4 hr. Past work with
All testing involved grooming 10 replicate hair this method showed the extent of breakage in these
tresses through 1,000 brush strokes, at a controlled experiments is strongly influenced by environmental
humidity of 60%.
The first set of data
shows the number Figure 4. Wet state break stress of hair as a function of heat treatments
of broken fibers for a
control set of tresses,
which received no
heat treatment.
Based on results in
Figure 4, it would
be predicted that
heat straightening
would leave the hair
markedly weaker
and more prone
to breakage. Yet,
the second set of
data in Figure 5
shows consider-
ably less breakage
in hair, which was
heat-straightened
with 100 passes of a
230°C iron.
This seemingly
unusual occurrence
can be explained
by recognizing the
Figure 5. Effect of heat on the number of broken hair fibers after
short-term benefits 1,000 brush strokes
of heat straightening:
with fibers in a highly
aligned state, the hair
feels smooth, soft
and manageable. This
alignment produces
lower grooming
forces, less friction,
reduced snagging
and tangling, and
diminished fatiguing
forces—in short,
benefits traditionally
obtained through the
use of conditioning
products.
Only after this
short-term benefit
wore off did the true
effect of the heat
treatment materialize.

32 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

conditions.5 Therefore, it is necessary to allow suf- This same benefit also leads to sizable benefits in terms
ficient time (over night) for the hair to re-equilibrate of reducing breakage—even though the hair can be in a
at 60% RH before performing further testing. considerably weakened state.
Finally the fourth set of data in Figure 5 shows Technical evidence suggests that heat treatments
the effect of incorporating a conventional, com- can be highly damaging to hair. Indeed, there is evi-
mercially available hair conditioner into this dence to suggest the application of high temperatures
heat-straightening process. In this case, hair tresses associated with curling and straightening irons may
were heat-straightened with 90 passes of the iron be near the top of the list of insults hair must endure.
in the manner described earlier. The hair was then Nonetheless, use of good conditioning products can
treated with a conditioning product, dried and 10 prevent the realization of degrading hair properties by
additional iron passes were applied, bringing the leaving the hair manageable, with a healthy feel and
total to 100. This straightened hair was also allowed minimized tendency for breakage.
to revert at an elevated humidity before identical
re-equilibration and testing. References
The results shown in Figure 5 illustrate the sizable 1. TA Evans, Defining and controlling frizz, Cosm & Toil 46(4) (May
increase in breakage, which can occur as a direct 2015)
result of the heat-straightening process. However, 2. TA Evans, Measuring the water content of hair, Cosm & Toil 129(2)
64-69 (Mar 2014)
they also demonstrate the capability for conditioning
3. TA Evans, Measuring hair strength, part 1: Stress-strain curves,
products to protect this fragile hair from break- Cosm & Toil 128(8) 590-594 (Sep 2013)
ing—such that this condition is not realized by the 4. TA Evans, Measuring hair strength, part 2: Fiber breakage, Cosm &
consumer. Toil 128(12) 854-859 (Dec 2013)
5. TA Evans, Hair breakage, in TA Evans and RR Wickett, eds, Practi-
Summary cal Modern Hair Science, Alluredbooks, Carol Stream, IL USA
(2012)
Heat styling appliances utilize alarmingly high
temperatures, which can have considerable adverse
effects on the structure and properties of hair.
Nonetheless, for many, the short-term benefits
produced by these products outweigh the concerns,
and frequent use is still common. Accordingly, there
is the demand for products helping to “protect” the
hair during such treatments.
A common theme in the present series of articles
is the idea that the cosmetics industry is often
muddled with the consumer language and scientific
language behind the same idea not necessarily match-
ing. From a scientific positioning, the concept of heat
protection may imply a literal definition of somehow
moderating hair temperatures or minimizing the
structural damage that arises under these conditions.
Yet, this would seem an unlikely occurrence given
the extreme temperatures involved and the ultra-thin
layers of surface deposits left behind by conventional
product treatments.
Clearly, consumers do not possess the means
to technically characterize their hair’s condi-
tion—assessment is instead achieved through a
combination of their own observations. Declining
tactile properties and an increased tendency for
breakage are likely high on this list. Therefore, the
ability to prevent these symptoms from occurring is
viewed as protection from the consumer’s perspective.
The lubrication provided by conditioning prod-
ucts is able to mask degrading surface properties
arising from all manners of insults. At the same
time, hair manageability is greatly improved because
combing and brushing are considerably less arduous.

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 33


Hidden Hair Damage and the
Importance of Multiple Tests
Crisan Popescu, Ph.D.*
Kao Germany GmbH, Darmstadt, Germany
KEY WORDS
hidden hair damage •
structure • fiber •
disulfide bonds • hydrogen
bonds • alpha keratins •
cystine • bleached,
weathered and permed
hair • humidity
ABSTRACT
It is of paramount
importance for hair
researchers to know the
history of hair at the time
of applying a treatment.
The lack of such
knowledge can create
misleading results. Thus,
a stress-strain test in both
dry and wet states can
provide a rapid means to
check the reliability of the
information collected, as is
shown here.
Save to
My Library
Reproduction in English or any other language of
34 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
Testing | C&T
T
o test a certain property in a hair sample, scientists subject a portion
of that sample to a given insult to assess before and after effects, then
compare results. In doing so, they assume the hair is “undamaged”
before treatment, and that the relative amplitude of the change in the
specified property precisely reflects the damage caused by the treatment.
Put another way, it is assumed the hair sample has no history. Furthermore,
although there is a common notion of what healthy hair is, there is not a
clear, objective definition for it that allows one to debate, by contrast, what
damaged hair is.
This essay reviews the structure of hair and introduces the concept of
hidden hair damage, which at first is either not immediately detectable or
occurs at unchanging and minimal levels, but then unfolds and amplifies
the effects of a subsequent damaging operation. As a consequence, the
same treatment may lead to different end results depending on whether the
reference, i.e., “un-damaged” hair, holds such hidden damage. This concept
of hidden damage underlines the importance of using more than one test
method for understanding and evaluating the degree of damage in hair.
Hair Structure
A hair fiber is a multicellular tissue consisting of several components.
Morphologically, it is a composite material organized with: a cuticle ring at
its outermost level; an inner cortex, wherein filaments are woven through
clusters of cortical cells comprised of macrofibrils, and even further com-
prised of microfibrils built on intermediate filament keratin proteins (IFKP)
and intermediate filament associated proteins (IFAP);1 and finally, a medulla
at its core (see Figure 1).
Chemically, hair is made of hard alpha-keratin, a fibrous protein that
contains a large amount of cystine—approximately 21% mol, as calculated
from the sulfur content of gamma-keratose of human hair.2 This particular
amino acid is capable of establishing disulfide bonds and is responsible for
the high degree of cross-linking in the fiber, laying the groundwork for most
of hair’s physical and chemical properties. These disulfide bonds differ from
other types of interactions within folded proteins, such as hydrogen bonds,
*A portion of the information presented here is from research the author conducted while working for
DWI-Leibniz Institute for Interactive Materials, Aachen, Germany.
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
© 2015 Allured Business Media.
 FULL VERSION FOR UNCOATED STOCK GLOBE VERSION FOR UNCOATED STOCK
Advertorial

NEWS FROM THE IFSCC There are a couple of unmissable events on

21 September before the Conference gets
BOOK YOUR PLACEFULL VERSION FOR COATED STOCK into full swing. GLOBE VERSION FOR COATED STOCK

FOR ZURICH 2015 COSMECEUTICALS WORKSHOP

Cosmeceuticals continues to be a key area for
23RD IFSCC development in cosmetics and the Swiss SCC has
CONFERENCE lined up an impressive panel of speakers to discuss
Cosmeceuticals: opportunities and threats based
HIGHLIGHTS on facts and illusions on Monday 21 September
The Swiss organization of 2015.
Cosmetic Chemists, Swiss SCC, From the Swiss SCC Dr Bernard Gabard and
has a great programme lined Dr Fred Zülli will introduce the topic and set the
up for this year’s 23rd IFSCC scene for the experts:
Conference in Zurich (21-23 DATE: 02/08/2012
Cosmeceuticals and
PRINTING: Uncoated stock PMS Cool Grey 9U FONTS: DIN Bold
skin ageing
Uncoated stock PMS 319U Gotham Rounded Medium
September). Exactly 20 yearsCUSTOMER:
ago IFSCC
Prof. Dr. med J. Krutmann
DESCRIPTION: Identity Master Artwork Uncoated stock PMS Cool Grey 9C
the Swiss SCC hosted the IFSCC (IUF-Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental
Uncoated stock PMS 319C
Conference under the title Facts Medicine, Düsseldorf, Germany)
and illusions in cosmetics. Cosmeceuticals andViridian sensitive skin;
Partnership LLP 1-3 Hale Groveunmet
Gardens, Mill Hill, London, NW7 3LR.
T +44 (0)20 8208 4566 E info@viridian-online.com W www.viridian-online.com
Time has changed and facts challenges
have gained importance, with Prof. Dr. Dr. h.c. Th. Luger
changing legislation for cosmetic products and their ingredients, (Department of Dermatology, University of Münster,
so this year’s fitting title is More facts, less illusions, but the Germany)
event will still be looking very much ahead to an exciting future for Peptides and growth factors in cosmeceuticals 
cosmetic science. Prof. Dr. med. M. Kerscher
(Institute of Cosmetic Science, University of Hamburg,
Sessions will cover skin biology, personal care, hair, formulation
Germany)
and society with keynotes on these topics not to miss including:
Cosmeceuticals and regulatory issues
Looking at skin with a different set of eyes – in vivo
Birgit Huber
microscopy and spectroscopy (Nik Kollias, J&J, USA); Stratum
(IKW – The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery
corneum: a magic cauldron with a quite unusual decoction
and Detergent Association)
brewing to its fullness (Marek Haftek, CNRS, Lyon, France); The
yin yang of human hair follicle, a question of balance (Bruno
YOUNG FORUM
Bernard, L’Oréal, France); and Darwinian aesthetics – sexual
This will focus on innovations made in Switzerland,
selection and the biology of beauty in relation to skin condition
highlighting how young scientists and entrepreneurs
(Bernard Fink, University of Goettingen, Germany).
use transdisciplinary approaches to reach innovation
For more information on the IFSCC 2015 Conference in cosmetics. This event will be hosted by the Inartis
programme visit www.ifscc2015.com Network and ZHAW (Zurich University of Applied
Sciences, Life Sciences and Facility Management). 

KEEP IN TOUCH
WHAT’S HAPPENING AT THE IFSCC?
The IFSCC is now producing a regular Newsletter
for IFSCC members. If you are a member of an
IFSCC affiliated society you should be receiving
this either directly or via your local society. If
you’re not please visit www.ifscc.org and sign up
to the Member’s Zone to ensure you receive future
Newsletters as well as Magazine notifications.
ADVANCES
IN COSMETIC
SCIENCE &
TECHNOLOGY
LATEST IFSCC MAGAZINE
NOW ONLINE 

Volume 18, No 1 papers include:
Antimicrobial peptide human beta defensin-3 (Hbd-3) as a key factor in acne
flare-up during the premenstrual stage Haruka Goto & Hiroshi Ohshima
Soft matter models of tissues – wetting of living drops
Françoise Brochard‐Wyart, Grégory Beaune & Nada Khalifat
A global approach to assess emotions in cosmetics
Christelle Pêcher, Marie‐Héloïse Bardel, Séverine Navarro & Danielle Mougin
Contribution of the cuticle to the stiffness of human hair: Significant or
minor? Steven Breakspear, Akira Mamada, Takashi Itou & Bernd Noecker
Physioxia and MicroRNAs as key factors in the skin microenvironment
Mahdi Nadim, Shalina Hassanaly, Lydie Dubannet & Catherine Grillon
Visit the IFSCC Member’s Zone at www.ifscc.org to download your copy.
Testing | C&T
and electrostatic and van der Waals interactions, in property to a lesser degree than before, the treatment
that they are covalent and their stability is almost can be deemed as damaging to hair. Therefore, under-
entirely dependent upon their environment. 3
standing hair damage includes two hurdles, namely
The classes of possible disulfide linkages in alpha- identifying the property of interest to be measured,
keratins, based on structural features, are given in and procuring virgin hair. In most cases, hair fiber
the literature.4 While IFAP-IFAP, IF-IF and IF-IFAP mechanics are measured, which are closer to what the
disulfide linkages are highly probable, intra-coil consumer experiences, and therefore more relevant.
disulfide bridges, i.e., within a single alpha-helix, The state of scales on the hair fiber surface is also a
can be excluded from hair or any other protein, as common measurement. However, untreated hair is
this would negate the alpha-helix arrangement. Also, often assumed to be the reference, and as previously
intra-rope disulfide bonds, i.e., between two alpha-
helices in the same rope, are unlikely to be present in
hair due to sterical constraints. Overall, the disulfide Market Intelligence
bonds appear to contribute to the structure of what is
termed, in the three-phase model of keratin fibers, as n Hair straightening offers today’s beauty
matrix and interface regions.5 marketplace what hair coloring offered in the late
Disulfide or “SS” bonds are not the only type 1990s, according to Diagonal Reports. Further,
helping to bind proteins in hair. Salt bridges, which hair straightening is no longer a one-size-fits-all
are ionic bonds, and hydrogen bonds also contribute category. Demand for hair control in general is
to hair fiber strength. Ionic bridges are difficult to growing exponentially due to these new products,
quantify since they may occur between both charged and also demographic and lifestyle changes.
amino acids—arginine and glutamine, for example—
and between traces of metals and carboxyl residues. Source: GCI (GCImagazine.com)
Thus, they are not included in
evaluations of hair fiber mechanics.
Ionic bonds aside, the overall esti- Figure 1. Schematic of hair fiber structure
mation of bonds in hair amounts
to:6 1H bond and 1/9 SS bond per
122 molecular weights of keratin.
The energetic values required to
break the two types of bonds are:
• H bond of: 3 = 5 kcal/mol;
12 = 20 kJ/mol
• SS-bond of: 30 = 50 kcal/mol;
120 = 200 kJ/mol
As a result, small mechanical
effects in hair could be due to
the hydrogen bonds, while major
changes are dominated by the
behavior of cystine. Hair damage is
reflected in its mechanical char-
acteristics, which are inherently
related to the state of its disulfide
and hydrogen bonds. This paper
therefore focuses on the economy
of disulfide and hydrogen bonds in
relation to hair damage.

Assessing
Hair Damage
As discussed above, and
elsewhere,7 to assess hair damage,
one needs a reference; i.e., pristine
hair. If pristine hair is treated and
afterwards exhibits at least one

36 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

described, this can lead to various uncorrelated
results due to the fact that the history of the refer-
ence hair is unknown—and plays a role in the values
measured.
Hair mechanics have much to do with the bonds
existing in the hair; i.e., with their forming and
breaking. Disulfide bonds break and re-form under
the effects of chemical and physical agents. As men-
tioned, the breaking of disulfide bonds decreases the
mechanical behavior of the fiber. Thus, in a simplified
view, the number of disulfide bonds broken translates
to the level of damage produced by the agent.
Yet, hydrogen and ionic bonds are not just broken;
they also are formed through cosmetic treatments.
And since the total mechanical behavior of hair relies
on the economy of all these bonds, the breaking of
disulfide bonds may be compensated by forming new
ones. Mechanical results may show improvements
using such a dual approach. This concept can be
expressed by the following statements:
• Hair mechanics depend on the sum of: disulfide
bonds + H bonds + ionic bonds; and
• Disulfide bonds can only decrease during hair
aging and treatments; the other bonds may increase
and/or decrease with the changing ingredients of
various treatments.
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair
Since changes in disulfide bonds significantly
change hair mechanics, it conversely was of interest
to determine whether changes in hair mechanics
could reveal changes in disulfide bonds. Investigating
the amino acid composition and mechanical proper-
Although the bleached
and bleached +
weathered hair looked
the same, once
straightened, different
results were produced.
ties, the author and co-researchers found that the wet
measurements of single fiber stress-strains, which
were used to suppress the contribution of H- and
ionic bonds as much as possible, related well to the
amount of cystine present in hair. More specifically,
the changes of Young’s modulus derived from wet
Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 37
Testing | C&T
measurements, i.e., the stress-strain of single fibers Bleached and Weathered Hair
placed in water, correlated almost entirely with Taking the above into consideration, a series of
changes in the cystine content of the hair fiber. This experiments was conducted to assess the impact of
result allows for the replacement of “hair mechanics,” hidden hair damage on test results. In a first experi-
in statement 1 above, with “Young’s modulus.” ment, a group of standard brown Caucasian hair
strands was bleached once
with 6% H2O2 solution.
Figure 2. Plot of Young’s modulus versus plateau yield for: the Half of the fibers were
reference fibers (blue diamonds); bleached once and straightened then weathereda for 100
at 200°C (red squares); and bleached once, weathered and hr after bleaching, in this
straightened at 200°C (green triangles); measurements were way adding a history of
performed under 55% RH at 22°C aging to the fibers that is
not detectable visually.
Both groups of fibers were
treated with the same
200°C straightener, then
their stress-strains were
measured at a relative
humidity of 55%. The
results are shown in
Figure 2, together with
those measured for initial
fibers, in a plot of Young’s
modulus versus plateau
yield—to better demon-
strate the output.
Although the bleached
and bleached + weathered
hair may look the same,
the straightener clearly
produced different results
in comparison with the
reference, which shows
Figure 3. Young’s modulus results for measuring standard a greater mechanical
untreated Caucasian hair (EU), and the same hair permed three
deterioration of the
times (Pw3) or seven times (Pw7), respectively, at 55% RH and 22°C
bleached + weathered
fibers than those that were
only bleached. Thus, the
conclusions drawn from
technicians performing
the test on bleached fibres
would strongly differ
from those who worked
on bleached + weathered
fibers.

Permed Hair
and
High Humidity
A second experiment
relating to permanent
waving was conducted.

a
Xenotest, ATLAS Material Testing
Solutions

38 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

A sample of brown
Caucasian hair was Figure 4. Measurements of Young’s modulus of standard untreated
permed using com- Caucasian hair (EU), and the same hair permed three (Pw3) or seven
mercial products up times (Pw7), respectively, at 100% relative humidity and 22°C
to seven times. Fiber
samples were taken at
the beginning, after
three perms, and after
seven perms, and their
mechanical properties
were measured. The
results in terms of
Young’s modulus are
plotted in Figure 3.
According to these
results, it appears that
Young’s modulus, after
perming three times,
was quite similar to
that after perming
seven times. In other
words, according to
mechanical testing,
it appears that hair
permed seven times was no more damaged than hair the history of hair at the time of applying a treatment.
permed only three times. The lack of such knowledge can create mislead-
However, the results change when mechanical ing results—and the only protection against such
measurements are performed under wet, i.e., 100% misinterpretation is to not trust the results of a single
RH, conditions. Figure 4 shows the results recorded type of test. Thus, a stress-strain test in both dry and
for Young’s modulus on the same fibers. These results wet states could provide a rapid means to check that
clearly indicate the increased level of damage in hair reliable information concerning the real status of the
permed seven times, compared with those permed reference hair is produced. Therefore, adding tests
only three times. will only increase the reliability of final conclusions.

Discussion
Consider both examples through the perspective
of the two statements made above—i.e., that hair
mechanics depend on the sum of bonds, and that
only disulfide bonds can decrease during hair aging
and treatments. Also consider that in water, or after
a 200°C-treatment, the hydrogen and ionic bonds
are largely suppressed, at which point the differences
in hair samples become apparent. A few comments
can be made. First, changes in the results come
from damaging the disulfide bonds during various
treatments. Also, dry state mechanics are influenced
by disulfide and all the other bonds; therefore, the
loss of disulfide bridges is clearly evidenced by the
measurement of hair mechanics in wet conditions,
for the case of permed hair, or by applying the
200°C-treatment for the straightening of hair.
References
1. C Popescu and H Höcker, Hair: The most sophisticated biologi-
cal composite material, Chem Soc Rev 36 1282–1291 (2007)
2. CR Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair,
Springer-Verlag, New York (2002)
3. TE Creighton, Disulfide bonds and protein stability, BioEssays
8(2) 57-63 (1988)
4. RDB Fraser, TP MacRae, LG Sparrow and DAD Parry, Disulfide
bonding in alpha-keratin, Int J Biol Macromol 10 106-112 (1988)
5. D Istrate, C Popescu, M ErRafik and M Moeller, The effect of pH
on the thermal stability of fibrous hard alpha-keratins, Polym Deg
Stab 98 542-549 (2013)
6. R Meredith, Rigidity, moisture and fiber structure, J Text Inst
48(6) T163-T174 (1957)
7. C Popescu, Hair damage, in TA Evans and RR Wickett, eds,
Practical Modern Hair Science, ch 11, Alluredbooks, Carol
Stream, IL (2012)

Conclusion
As a result of the described work, it appears it is of
paramount importance for hair researchers to know

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 39

 Formulating | C&T

Anti-dandruff
Shampoo
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
Rigano Laboratories, Milan, Italy

KEY WORDS
dandruff • shampoo •
cleansing • foaming •
antimicrobial • coal tar •
piroctone olamine •
ketoconazole • zinc
pyrithione
ABSTRACT
This column reviews basic
shampoo formulation
strategies then looks to
dandruff mechanisms
and the ingredients and
strategies used to address
it, including new concepts
on the horizon for future
product development.
Save to
My Library
A
ccording to cosmetic industry’s classic definition, a shampoo is a
product with cleansing and foaming actions on the scalp that leaves
the hair soft, shiny and easy to comb. However, this broad definition
does not explain the multiple functions of this category of products or its
large success. Indeed, a sub-category of the shampoo family is the anti-dan-
druff niche, recognized worldwide for its importance in terms of sales and
volume—approximately 8 million Euros and 600 million tons respectively,
as of 2011. This column reviews basic shampoo formulation strategies, then
looks to dandruff and specialty ingredients and strategies used to address
this condition, including new concepts on the horizon for future product
development.
Standard Shampoos
Shampoo formulations involve a complex mix of ingredients for various
functions, including the following:
Cleansing: Ingredients are required to remove all residues of sebaceous
secretions, environmental dirt of a fatty nature, and dust and solid particles
derived from scalp desquamation from the hair surface. Since the entire
hydrophobic hair surface is ~2,000 cm2, the detachment, with the aid of
water, of all these materials as a stable suspension and/or micro-emulsion
generally requires surfactants. These molecules decrease the interfacial ten-
sion between water and fatty materials with the keratin surface. At the same
time, the reduction of excess microbial charge on the scalp results in visibly
better hair conditions.
Odor elimination: Removing all odoriferous substances, of environ-
mental or self-origin, absorbed onto the scalp and hair surface and into the
sebum layers wetting them is also desirable.
Foaming: Although not strictly necessary, foam formation accompanies
the massaging of surfactant solutions onto the scalp. Indeed, foam forma-
tion, volume, thickness and appearance contribute to the overall product
acceptance. Foam massage is a form of self-reward for consumers, and the
final elimination of the foam during rinsing is ritualistic, corresponding to
removing not only the physical, but the psychological negative encounters
of daily life. Moreover, structured foam helps to maintain the bulk of
product dilute solution on the application site.

Reproduction in English or any other language of

40 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
© 2015 Allured Business Media.
 The described actions are obtained by the proper
combination of surfactants and co-surfactants, at
a total solid, i.e., active matter, content between
10% and 25%. In particular, molecules possessing
foam-boosting properties represent 2% to 6% of
the formula. A combination of distinct surfactant
structures is generally used rather than a single
ingredient, in order to optimize cleansing properties,
product rheology and mildness for the scalp. Luxuri-
ous foam performances and hair conditioning effects,
together with ease of rinsing and affordability, are
also milestones in the formulation strategy.
In general, the main surfactant is 60–85% of the
total surfactant content in a formula, and is usually
an anionic such as sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)
as the key foamer. The other surfactants work for
mildness and skin and hair conditioning. In general,
equilibrated blends of anionic, nonionic and ampho-
teric surfactants are used to optimize performances
and costs.
Adequate flow: Flow refers to the movement of a
product from the container, control over the amount
poured into the hand and the ease with which it
is distributed and massaged onto the scalp. This is
achieved by the appropriate selection of foam boost-
ers, which generally have a positive influence over
viscosity or by the selection of thickeners. Polymeric
thickeners are used at a maximum level of 1–2%.
Sodium chloride is the cheapest possible thicken-
ing agent but its total concentration, including that
from surfactant raw materials, should not exceed 2%
in order to avoid harshness to the scalp and pos-
sible crystallization in cold environments. It is also
important to remember, viscosity is influenced by the
pH of the solution.
Anti-static action: This function is necessary to
reduce electrostatic-induced fly-aways and permit
better alignment of the scales along the hair axis,
providing enhanced luster and better combability.
To this end, polymeric or non-polymeric cationic
conditioners, as well as blends of them, are often used
at levels between 0.5–1.5%.
Lubricant action: To compensate for the com-
plete loss of sebum from hair due to cleansing with
shampoos and to decrease the resulting friction
in hair, lubricant agents are added to form a shiny,
protective film on the hair surface. This also supports
the functionality of conditioners. It is important that,
as the product is diluted with water during use, these
ingredients deposit onto the hair surface and resist
the rinse-off operation. Their use concentration is
typically not higher than 3–5%.
Aesthetic additives: Color increases the sensory
acceptability of products, including hiding yellow-
ing, which frequently develops in cleansing blends.
Pearling agents are added for the same reason as well
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair
and to impart the perception of richness. To address
the difficulty of obtaining a satisfactory pearl effect
in shampoo formulas without heating the whole
bulk to 50–60°C, proprietary concentrated blends
of ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated alkyl stearates
generally are used. The stability of the pearl effect in
the final formula is related both to the thixotropy of
the blend at 1–5%, and the crystal size and stability of
the pearled premix.
Perfumes are another key hedonic character in
shampoo that underline the product’s identity. Their
use levels in a formula usually range from 0.2–1%.
In order to obtain long-lasting olfactory sensation,
perfume ingredients should exhibit a certain degree
of adhesion to hair. Their color also should not exces-
sively interfere with the color of the finished product.
Dandruff occurs when
normal physiological
scaling of the scalp
experiences an elevated
rate of desquamation of
the horny cells.
Self-preservation: Shampoos require adequate
microbial preservation due to their use conditions,
i.e., high humidity, and the large amounts of water
in their formulae, i.e., between 70–85%. This can be
achieved with the right amount and combination
of traditional and/or non-traditional preservatives.
Satisfactory challenge test results provide a check-
point to fulfill this safety aspect.
Normalizing action: Hair cleansing implies the
removal of all water-holding entities and barrier
ingredients in the scalp and hair, which results in
increased water loss, excess scalp dryness and itch.
Therefore, a good hair cleanser should favor the quick
Market Intelligence
n Dandruff affects more than 40% of the total
adult population, and while hardly life-threatening,
it is certainly a condition no one wants.
n Dandruff treatments have been around for
many years, but the specific yeast responsible for
dandruff was only accurately identified in 2007.
Source: GCI (GCImagazine.com)
Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 41
Formulating | C&T
recovery of skin’s equilibrium, normalization of the modify the distribution of sebum along the hair and
pH and a fast return to scalp homeostasis. These weaken its mechanical strength. In relation, insoluble
effects strictly depend on very low surfactant content, calcium and magnesium salts from hard water, which
the pH of the formula—i.e., between 4.7 and 6.5–and dull hair, can be prevented from precipitating on the
its buffering during dilution with water, inhibiting the hair surface by sequestering agents, used at levels
absorption of surfactant into the hair shaft and scalp, between 0.05–0.15%.
and the ease of rinse-off. A low-surfactant example is
given in Formula 1.
Frequently, harshness
to the skin is caused by the Formula 1. Transparent, Low Surfactant Content Formula
incomplete elimination of
surfactant residues from A. Piroctone Olamine (Octopirox, Clariant) 0.5% w/w
the hair and scalp surface. B. Water (aqua) 10.00
Indeed, a perfect rinse-off C. Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 28%
of shampoo ingredients (Genapol LRO Liquid, Clariant) 30.00
from this complex environ- D. Polyquaternium-7 (Merquat 550, Clariant) 0.50
ment of scalp and hair Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
“forest” does not happen as Sodium Salicylate 1.00
easily as one might think. Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (Genagen LAA, Clariant) 3.00
Surfactant residues left on Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5.00
the scalp for hours exert a E. Citric Acid, 50% 0.60
negative degreasing effect F. Sodium Chloride 0.80
G. Fragrance (parfum), Color qs
and hinder the re-equili-
bration of the skin barrier. Procedure: Mix A with B, then add C and keep stirring until a clear solution is obtained. Add D in
On the hair structure, these order, while stirring. Adjust pH with E and viscosity with F. Add G to batch.
residual ingredients also

42 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

Dandruff and the Scalp Anti-dandruff Actives
Beyond the cleansing, foaming, etc., functions In the past, coal tar was used in medicated dan-
of a basic shampoo, dandruff shampoos address a druff shampoos. However, its distinct scent and dark
condition. Dandruff is found in a high proportion of color made consumer compliance difficult; although
all populations at all times. It is defined as a chronic, it was successful in dermatological prescriptions.
non-inflammatory scaling of the scalp. Dandruff Purified grades of coal tar then became available and
occurs when the normally invisible physiological were more efficient but they required the formulator
scaling of the scalp is modified by an elevated rate to use “coal-tar type” perfumes in order to convey
of desquamation of the horny cells. The horny layer the message of medicated efficacy. Today’s consumer
then breaks up unevenly in larger cell clumps. As this association of coal tar with salicylic acid and undecy-
occurs, numerous intracellular lipid droplets also lenic derivatives enables formulators to optimize
are entrapped.1 keratolytic and antiseptic activities.3
A dandruff-afflicted scalp exhibits an abnormal Colloidal sulfur and sulfides, which inhibit the
stratum corneum, related to hyperproliferation with activity of M. furfur, also were largely used in the
parakeratosis and excessively disorganized intercel- past. In fact, in 1990, a summary judgment published
lular lipids.2 The reversal of these stratum corneum in the U.S. Federal Register4 expressed selenium
abnormalities requires not only flake removal, but sulfide is still a key ingredient in the field, despite
also a complete treatment of
the causes of dandruff. In
addition to genetic disposi- Formula 2. Example Selenium Sulfide Formula6
tion, excessive proliferation
of specific microorganisms A. Fumed Silica (Cab-o-Sil, Cabot) 2.00%
such as Malassezia furfur, Selenium Sulfide 1.00
once referred to as Pityros- B. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (Steol CS-130, Stepan) 30.00
porum ovale; excess sebum; Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and)
the production of irritant- Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Euperlan PK-4000, BASF) 30.00
free fatty acids; and some C. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
metabolic disturbances D. Fragrance (parfum), Preservatives qs
often are associated with Procedure: Separately mix A and B. Blend A with B, then add C slowly. Add D as desired.
dandruff.

Formula 3. Formula Based on Antimycotic Activity

A. Water (aqua) qs to 100% w/w
Polyquaternium 55 (Styleze W20, Ashland) 0.5–1.0
Panthenol 0.3–0.5
Arginine 0.1
Citric Acid 0.7
B. Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, 30% 8.0–12.0
Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, 25% 6.0–10.0
Zinc Coceth Sulfate, 30% 20.0–30.0
Cocoglucoside, 30% 3.0–6.0
C. Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, 30% 4.0-6.0
Piroctone Olamine 0.50
D. Potassium Azeloyl Glycinate 1.00
E. PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate (and) Laureth-2 (and) Water (aqua) (Oxetal VD92,
Zschimmer & Schwarz) 2.0–3.0
F. Fragrance (parfum) qs
PEG-12 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 1.00

Procedure: Separately premix C and F, stirring until completely transparent. Combine A in order, stirring after each addition until complete
solution. Add B, in order, to A while stirring. Check pH value, which must be below 5.3. Add C, D and E to AB in order. Finally, add
premix F; pH: 5.3. This formula, developed by the author’s company, supports the antimycotic activity of piroctone olamine using an
antimicrobially active combination of surfactants in B, plus an anti-sebum active (D). The surfactant system is quite mild while the foam
booster includes an ethoxylated glyceryl isostearate, laureth-2 and PEG-12 methyl glucose dioleate.

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 43

Formulating | C&T
the unpleasant appearance and odor; and in 1991, a Upgraded Vehicles
patented formula5 used it at 25%; see Formula 2 for Specialized vehicles could assist in depositing
an additional example.6 antidandruff actives onto the scalp. For example,
Today, special importance is given to complex multi-lamellar vesicles consisting of concentric
compounds such as pyridine thione derivatives— shells of surfactant bilayers currently deliver actives
including zinc pyrithione (micronized, insoluble) and and conditioners to damaged hair. These structured
sodium pyrithione (water-soluble). In one particular systems are also capable of stabilizing and delivering
patent,7 the use of zinc pyrithione in small-sized silicone and vegetal oils.9 In relation, one interest-
platelets claimed to enhance its anti-dandruff efficacy ing paper10 describes how a particular structure of
due to better adhesion to the scalp for longer-lasting surfactants with polymers can create a coacervate
action. The adhesion of small particles to the scalp upon contact with water. This transformation is
seems key to inhibiting the action of M. furfur, which said to improve the delivery of anti-dandruff active
is present on the hair follicle. principles to the scalp. And in order to keep insoluble
For the predominant approach treating yeasts as
the major cause of dandruff, antimycotic
agents have been employed (see
Formula 3). Piroctone olamine, for
Formula 4. Shampoo with Hydrogenated Castor
example, is a good active against Oil to Stabilize Zinc Pyrithione
M. furfur, and has the advantage of
being soluble in surfactant solutions. Sodium Laureth Sulfate 10.00% w/w
More recently, ketoconazole and Disodium Cocoamphoacetate 3.00
miconazole are being used, although PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 0.20
in some countries they are considered Hydrogenated Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil 0.50
medical specialties and cannot be used Dimethicone 0.60
Glycol Stearate 0.80
in cosmetic preparations. Specifically,
Sodium Salicylate 0.15
ketoconazol is not permitted throughout
Sodium Benzoate 0.00–0.50
the European Union and miconazol is
Polyquaternium-10 0.00–0.15
not allowed in Switzerland. Indeed, many
Panthenol 0.50
of these antimicrobial ingredients have Niacinamide 0.30
anti-mitotic activity; in other words they Zinc Pyrithione, 50% 0.00–2.00
reduce the abnormal skin cell shedding Fragrance (parfum) 0.00–0.50
that accompanies dandruff. In a scientific Citric Acid 0.00–0.25
comparison,8 the three actives—i.e., Sodium Chloride 0.00–0.50
piroctone olamine, ketoconazole and Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
zinc pyrithione—gave comparable results
in terms of efficacy.

44 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

zinc pyrithione in a stable suspension, a patent from
Henkel11 describes the use of hydrogenated castor
oil as a stabilizer (see Formula 4), together with a
gel-former.
8. C Piérard-Franchimont et al, Nudging hair shedding by
antidandruff shampoos. A comparison of 1% ketoconazole, 1%
piroctone olamine and 1% zinc pyrithione formulations, Int J
Cosmet Sci (24)5, 249-56 (2002)
9. D Bendejacq, C Mabille, V Picquet and E Gates, Structured
surfactant systems for high performance shampoo, Cosm & Toil

Up-and-coming 125(11) 22-9 (2010)

Anti-dandruff Ingredients
In the quest for natural ingredients, vegetal
saponins arise as possible alternatives to strong
anti-mycotic agents. Those extracted from the bark of
the South African tree Ziziphus joazeiro recently were
10. www.udel.edu/udaily/2013/feb/li-coacervation-021213.html
(Accessed Apr 29, 2015)
11. WO 2008 6.412, Antidandruff shampoo containing hydroge-
nated castor oil as stabilizing agent, assigned Henkel KgaA (Jan
17, 2008)
12. www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/
Detail/1024/240151/DANDRILYS (Accessed May 6, 2015)

launched and Natrue certified.12 Another organic
complexa to treat dandruff is based on Andiantum
capillus veneris (maidenhair) extract and Thymus
serpillum (wild thyme) in glycerol and water. Quillaja
bark extract also is rich in saponins and has demon-
strated anti-dandruff efficacy.13
Further, recent work14 with green tea polyphenols
has shown that once they are protected from oxida-
tion, these actives can reduce scalp scaling. Also
following the “green” trend, saponins extracted from
Asparagus racemosus (asparagus) act as powerful
anti-fungal agents.15 The lactic acid derivative16
13. L Rigano, A Bonfigli and R Walther, Bioactivity evaluations of
Quillaja saponaria (soap bark tree) saponins in skin and scalp
sebaceous imbalances, SÖFW 138(3) 14-21 (2012)
14. S Hsu et al, Green tea polyphenol induces caspase 14 in epider-
mal keratinocytes via MAPK pathways and reduces psoriasiform
lesions in the flaky skin mouse model, Exp Dermatology (16)8,
678-84 (2007)
15. C Onlom, S Khanthawong, N Waranuch and K Ingkaninan,
In vitro anti-Malassezia activity and potential use in anti-dandruff
formulation of Asparagus racemosus, Int J Cosmetic Sci (36)1
74-8 (2014)
16. www.dr-straetmans.de/en/products/productdescription_dermo-
soft_decalact.php (Accessed Apr 29, 2015)
17. WO 2013136040, Polypeptides and their use, D O’Neil, D Mer-
cer and C Stewart, assigned to NovaBiotics Ltd., (May 14, 2012)

sodium decanoyl dodecanoyl lactylate is said to be
active at 2%, especially against microorganisms such
as M. furfur, which cause skin disorders.
Lastly, lysine polypeptides are a new cationic
18. KS Hewitson et al, Molecular cloning, characterization and
inhibition studies of a beta-carbonic anhydrase from Malassezia
globosa, a potential antidandruff target, J Medicinal Chemistry
(55) 3513-20 (2012)

ingredient type, which interact with negatively

charged microbial cell membranes to destroy the
cells.17 In relation, microscopic and dermatological
evaluations, together with bioengineering methods,
are standard ways to quantify antidandruff activity.
In fact, a recent paper18 describes an enzyme cloned
from M. furfur, which was identified as a good model
for studying in vitro the efficacy of anti-dandruff
agents such as sulfonamides.

References
1. EA Grice and JA Segre, The Skin Microbiome, Nat Rev Microbiol
9(4) 244-53 (Apr 2011)
2. RR Warner, JR Schwartz, Y Boissy and TL Dawson, Dandruff
has an altered stratum corneum ultrastructure that is improved
with zinc pyrithione shampoo, J Am Acad Dermatol (45)6 897-
903 (2001)
3. www.activedrug.com/drug-info/coalgel-pierre-fabre (Accessed
Apr 29, 2015)
4. R. Holbrook, commentary on Sulfidal, manufactured by Pett-
bone Laboratories, Cosm & Toil 105(2) 28 (1990)
5. EP 317,314, Shampoo compositions, P Columnkille and
PE Cotran, assigned to Procter & Gamble company McCall (May
24, 1989)
6. www.cabotcorp.com/.../brochures/.../brochure-cab (Accessed
Apr 14, 2015)
7. WO 1992014440 A1, Antidandruff shampoo compositions,
C Winyard Cardin, J Ingram Davis, J Lynn Hart and D Grob
Schmidt, assigned to Procter & Gamble (1992)

a
Organic Anti-Dandruff Complex, Greentech

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 45

 Formulating | C&T

Lasting Hair Conditioning via

In situ Controlled Flocculation
T. Nuutinen,† B. Kroon,† E.P. Everaert, Ph.D.,†
R. McMullen, Ph.D.,* C.R. Usher, Ph.D.,‡ and
X. Qu, Ph.D.+
Ashland Specialty Ingredients: †Zwijndrecht, Netherlands;
*Bridgewater, NJ; ‡Wilmington, DE; and +Shanghai, China

KEY WORDS
cationic homopolymer
technology • conditioning •
hair repair • hydrophobicity •
wet combining • contact
angle • in situ controlled
flocculation • ToF-SIMS •
SEM • streaming potential
ABSTRACT
A new cationic
homopolymer-based
technology was designed
to provide long-lasting
conditioning to damaged hair
without product buildup. Its
mechanism, in situ controlled
flocculation, is described
here, and its capability to
restore hydrophobicity to
damaged hair is shown.
Techniques are detailed
for measuring silicone
deposition, conditioning
performance, hydrophobicity
and buildup on hair.
Save to
My Library
O
ver the past 20 years, consumer demand has grown for products
designed to treat hair damaged by thermal, mechanical and chemical
insults. According to Kline and Company, conditioners, especially
intensive treatments, remain the fastest growing category in hair care. Most
conditioning technologies currently employed in rinse-off systems lend
benefits to hair that last for only a day or two. Thus, conditioning technolo-
gies designed for long-lasting performance to restore hair closer to its virgin
state are desired. Technology that offers good conditioning upon initial use,
yet continues to activate conditioning through multiple shampoo-based
wash cycles, may better serve consumers in their efforts to retain condition-
ing effects for an extended period of time.
Normally, polymers deposited on the hair surface from a cationic
polymer shampoo perform the dual role of conditioning and delivering
ingredients such as silicones.1, 2 One of the main requirements to deliver
lasting conditioning from a rinse-off system is the capability to withstand
multiple surfactant wash cycles. The present article describes the develop-
ment of such a technology—a highly cationically charged homopolymer
based on acrylates chemistry (INCI: Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium
Chloride)a, referred to as polyAPTAC. This polymer acts via a novel
mechanism termed in situ controlled flocculation (ISCF)b to control cationic
polymer charge sites and allow for their flocculation in situ during next-day
cleansing with anionic shampoo components (see Figure 1 on Page 35).
Specifically, hair is washed with a shampoo containing positively
charged polyAPTAC polymer, which is attracted to the damaged, negatively
charged hair surface. The polymer carries an excess positive charge to
enable the formation of flocculates on the hair surface in situ when hair is
treated with anionic surfactants. During flocculate formation, hydrophobic
lauryl groups from sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) coat the hair surface,
creating a hydrophobic layer on the hair. If silicones or other oils are present
in the shampoo, they also are attracted to the hair surface during flocculate
formation, further boosting their deposition.
A variety of performance-related measurements were made with
control and test products, and compared with a commercial conditioner to
a
N-DurHance A-1000 (INCI: Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) and b the acronym ISCF are
registered trademarks of Ashland Specialty Ingredients.

Reproduction in English or any other language of

46 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
© 2015 Allured Business Media.
Formulating | C&T
confirm this in situ controlled flocculationb mecha-
nism and compare efficacies. To study deposition,
two-dimensional imaging time-of-flight secondary
ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) and scanning
electron microscopy (SEM) were employed. Condi-
tioning performance was monitored by wet combing
correlated with silicone deposition tracking. Hair
hydrophobicity was measured by pseudo-static water
contact angle measurements. Finally, to determine
buildup on hair, a specially designed streaming
potential instrument measured flow rate data and
zeta potential of the hair surface in situ during treat-
ment cycles.
Conditioners containing
the highly cationically
charged homopolymer
maintained their efficacy
after five washes with
a non-conditioning
shampoo.
Materials and Methods
Double-bleached, European hair in 26-cm
tresses and bleached Chinese hair served as the test
substratesc. The level of damage was determined by
measuring both water contact angles and Fourier
transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) sulfonic acid
peak intensity at 1,040 cm-1; longer bleaching times
increase surface hydrophilicity, resulting in a higher
sulfonic acid peak intensity. Tresses were washed
with a 4.5% sodium lauryl sulfate solution prior to
treatment, with a minimum of three hair tresses per
product used.
Market Intelligence
n Some of the new products emerging in hair
care include milder cleansing through sulfate-
free systems, robust conditioning focused
around newer silicone conditioning technology,
UV-enhanced leave-in conditioners, and
multifunctional styling aides such as anti-frizz and
shine-enhancing products.
Source: GCI (GCImagazine.com)
48 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
A simple formula based on a cationic surfactant,
stearamidopropyl dimethylamine at 0.7% w/w,
fatty alcohol, cetearyl alcohol at 2.5% w/w, and
hydroxyethylcellulose at 1% served as the base chassis
without polyAPTAC. When testing with polyAPTAC,
1% active material was added (5% as is; material
is 20% active in water). The non-conditioning
shampoo tested contained 12% w/w SLES (2EO),
2% w/w cocamidopropyl betaine and 1.5% w/w
sodium chloride.
Wet-combing: Wet-combing work is a direct
measurement of conditioning efficacy. Conditioned
hair requires less force to comb. The equipment used
for this study was a texture analyzerd. Five combing
cycles were performed on each tress at 23ºC and
50% relative humidity (RH), and the average was
calculated. The tresses were not detangled before
measurements.
Silicone measurement: Silicones are widely used
to improve hair conditioning, and the performance of
a conditioner reflects the distribution of silicone oils
along the hair fiber. Also, the more damaged the hair
surface, the more difficult it is to deposit silicone on
hair. Therefore, relative silicone surface level (RSSL)
measurements were taken using Attenuated Total
Reflection (ATR) in conjunction with infrared (IR)
spectroscopy. This technique uses the ratio of the
silicone band peak height [near 796.5 cm-1 (tangent
baseline)], to a reference band from an area slice of
hair [from 940.1 cm-1 to 919.9 cm-1 (tangent base-
line)] to determine the relative surface silicone level,
as shown in Equation 1.
Peak Height (at 796.5 cm-1) = RSSL (with 0.05 detection limit)
Peak Area (940.1 cm-1 – 919.9 cm-1)
Eq. 1
In previous studies, this surface silicone measure-
ment method correlated well with total extracted
silicone levels across a range of concentrations
(300–4,000 ppm).1
Contact angle measurements: Virgin hair has
a hydrophobic surface and is most often described
as smooth and shiny. Restoring the hydrophobicity
of damaged hair helps to renew its look and feel. In
relation, pseudo-static contact angle measurements of
water on the hair surface are an indicator of surface
hydrophobicity; the more homogenous the poly-
mer is deposited, the higher the contact angle. For
pseudo-static contact angle measurements, a portion
of the hair tress was stretched on a specially designed
plate to suspend the fibers together in space, forming
a “single” surface. To apply a deionized water droplet
c
International Hair Importers
d
Analyzer XT2i, Stable Microsystems
(~0.008 g), a 1-mL disposable syringe with a stainless
steel, regular-beveled Luer-lok needle (27 G x ½”)e
was used. The syringe was mounted such that its
tip was ~0.5 cm above the hair fiber surface. Photo-
graphs of the water droplets on hair were taken at
1 sec or 10 sec using image analysis softwaref. Three
trials were carried out for each sample.
Streaming potential measurements: By monitor-
ing the flow rate of a diluted, 1 mM KCl salt buffer
solution through hair fibers, the thickness of an
absorbed polymer on hair can be measured. If a
polymer treatment builds up on hair after continued
use, decreases in the flow rate—i.e., electrokinetic
Figure 1. Depiction of in situ controlled flocculation
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair
permeability—will be detected. A streaming potential
instrument was therefore designedg to measure
both the zeta potential (i.e., surface charge of hair,
with and without hair care ingredients) as well as its
electrokinetic permeability, which is accomplished
by gravimetric means within the instrument. For
this method, the hair is treated in situ so that the
history of a given hair plug or bundle is known,
which can help to determine whether or not buildup
is occurring.1
e
Becton, Dickinson and Company
f
Image-Pro Plus, Media Cybernetics
g
Better Cosmetics, LLC
Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 49
Formulating | C&T
Figure 2. Wet combing work results on double-bleached Caucasian hair, measured after
several treatment cycles
SEM: The deposition behavior of polyAPTAC
was monitored by post-treating previously polymer-
treated hair with polybead carboxylate microspheres
(1.0 μ)h and imaging the spheres on the hair surface
using SEMj. The beads are anionic and will stick
to hair only if cationic charges are present from
the polyAPTAC film. For post-treatment, hair was
immersed in a 0.01% w/v solution latex in 10-3 KCl
for 5 min, after which it was immersed in a deionized
water rinse system for 5 min. Subsequently, hair fiber
samples were coated with 10-nm gold and analyzed
by SEM.
ToF-SIMS: Deposition studies also were carried
out using a ToF-SIMS instrumentk. In this technique,
the composition of a solid surface—in this case,
hair—is probed with an ion beam and the ejected
secondary ions are analyzed. This is an extremely
sensitive technique and special care must be taken so
as not to contaminate the samples. Analysis param-
eters were: ion/energy Bi3+; 30 keV (polarity: positive
and negative); lateral resolution of 3–5 μm for routine
analysis at full mass resolution; and 300–500 nm at
nominal mass resolution. An untreated bleached
Caucasian hair tress was used as the reference. Hair
tresses were treated with a 1% w/w solution of the
polyAPTAC conditioning polymer, followed by clean-
ing with a 3% w/w sodium dodecyl sulfate solution,
h
PolySciences Inc.
j
Amray Model 1820, SEMTech Solutions
k
TOF-SIMS 5-300 instrument, ION-TOF GmbH
50 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
then rinsed with deionized water and blow-dried
while combing.
Results and Discussion
Wet-combing: As stated, conditioning efficacy was
studied by wet-combing. Pre-washed tresses were
initially treated with 0.2 g per gram of hair with test
conditioner, with and without silicones, and rinsed.
The wet-combing work was then measured. To study
lasting efficacy, the same tresses were washed again
with 0.1 g per gram of hair with a non-conditioning
shampoo one, three and five times. After every step,
the wet-combing work was measured. The results
were compared with a commercial conditioner
designed for damaged hair, as shown in Figure 2.
All the test conditioners performed well after the
initial rinse-off step; however, the commercial condi-
tioner and base conditioner lost their efficacy when
tresses were washed once with non-conditioning
shampoo. The conditioners containing polyAPTAC
maintained their conditioning efficacy, even after five
washes with a non-conditioning shampoo.
A similar study was carried out on a mannequin
head of bleached Caucasian hair. The left side was
treated with a silicone-containing commercial
conditioner designed for damaged hair, and the right
side was treated with the base conditioner contain-
ing 1% polyAPTAC. After the initial treatment (see
Figure 3A), the difference between these treatments
already was visible. After three washes with non-
conditioning shampoo, then 5 min (see Figure 3B)
and 15 min of combing
(see Figure 3C), the left Figure 3. Half-head study on mannequin heads without
side remained tangled; polyAPTAC (left, for each) and with polyAPTAC (right, for each);
the right side, treated with wet hair shampooed with conditioners applied initially (A), after
polyAPTAC technology, three shampoos and 5 min of combing (B), and after three
maintained efficacy similar shampoos and 15 min of combing (C)
to its initial state.
Silicone measurement:
As noted, the RSSL of hair
prepared similarly to the
wet-combing experiments
was measured. Pre-washed
bleached Caucasian and
Chinese tresses initially
were treated with 0.2 g per
gram of hair of a commercial
silicone-containing con-
ditioner, with and without Figure 4. RSSL on bleached Chinese hair after multiple washes
polyAPTAC, and rinsed. with a silicone-containing commercial shampoo
Silicone deposition was
then measured. To study
lasting efficacy, the same
tresses were washed again
with 0.1 g per gram of hair
of a silicone-containing
commercial shampoo, one,
three and five times; after
every step, silicone deposi-
tion was measured. Results
are shown in Figure 4. Note
that the level of hair damage
(bleaching vs. virgin hair)
was considered as the basis
for measuring performance,
not hair type.
As shown, silicone
deposition was significantly
improved due to the in
situ controlled flocculation
mechanism of polyAPTAC. Figure 5. Pseudo-static contact angles on bleached
After the initial condition-
Caucasian hair
ing, the polymer formed
flocculates with surfactants,
thereby increasing silicone
deposition after hair was
washed with silicone-
containing shampoo. With
polyAPTAC present on the
hair, all washes during the
five-wash test period allowed
additional silicone deposi-
tion on hair.
Contact angle: As noted,
pseudo-static contact angle
measurements of the hair
surface indicate surface

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 51

Formulating | C&T
hydrophobicity, which also relates to any surface
treatment. A more homogenously deposited polymer
creates a higher contact angle. As Figure 5 shows, vir-
gin Caucasian hair is very hydrophobic, measuring a
contact angle of 115 degrees. In addition, a water drop-
let applied to the hair surface remained for 10 min.
In contrast, when the hair was double-bleached, the
contact angle was reduced to 85 degrees, and the water
droplet was absorbed in 1 min.
The test base conditioner on bleached hair showed
little influence on surface hydrophobicity. The com-
mercial repair conditioner containing silicones
increased the initial contact angle, although it did
not prevent water absorption. When the bleached
hair was treated with the base conditioner containing
1% polyAPTAC; however, the initial contact angle
was increased and the water absorption clearly was
reduced. To confirm the in situ controlled flocculation
hypothesis, hair tresses were then washed twice with
a non-conditioning shampoo; results indicated the
surface hydrophobicity improved further, reaching
levels close to virgin hair.
Streaming potential: Flow rates of diluted, 1 mM
KCl salt buffer solution through hair after different
treatments are shown in Figure 6. The flow rate of
untreated hair was first measured, then hair was
treated with 0.1% active polyAPTAC solution in
demineralized water, rinsed with water, and washed
with a surfactant mixture. This cycle was repeated
twice. Results showed the electrokinetic permeability
remained unchanged after repeated treatments with
polyAPTAC, indicating no buildup from the polymer.
SEM: As noted, to understand overall polymer
deposition on bleached hair, studies were carried out
Figure 6. Flow rates measured by streaming potential instrument; an absence of changes in
flow rate indicates no buildup on the hair surface
52 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
using SEM (see Figure 7).3 Hair previously treated
with polyAPTAC was also treated with polybead car-
boxylate microspheres (1.0 μ), which bear a negative
charge. The positively charged conditioning polymer,
already attracted and bound to the negatively charged
hair surface, was found to attract the negatively
charged microspheres. This provided an indication
of the overall bulk distribution of the polymer on the
hair’s surface, which as shown in the SEM micrograph,
was fairly even.
ToF-SIMS: As stated, both untreated bleached
and polymer-treated bleached hair were examined by
ToF-SIMS, which corresponds to all the positive ions
emanating from the hair surface. As Figure 8 shows,
in general, untreated bleached hair resulted in stronger
peaks, corresponding to typical species found in hair;
these include nitrogen-containing hydrocarbons,
e.g., CN-, CNO-, C3N and CSN. On the other hand,
hair treated with the conditioning polymer exhibited
other nitrogen-containing hydrocarbons, such as
CH4N+, C3H8N+, C4H10+, C4H8N+, C5H10N+ and
C6H10NO+. These species point to the presence of
the polymer on the hair surface. Further, the distribu-
tion of the polymer was again found to be uniform
throughout the entire hair surface, not only at cuticle
edges, which is crucial to restoring the hydrophobicity
of hair.
Summary
The results of this study show the new polyAPTAC
technology provides long-lasting conditioning to
damaged hair without measurable buildup. Its mecha-
nism is based on in situ controlled flocculation, which
enables the technology to restore the hydrophobicity
of hair to levels similar to
a virgin state. The series Figure 7. SEM of poly(styrene) bead deposition; the
of performance-related positively charged conditioning polymer, already attracted and
measurements described bound to the negatively charged hair surface, was found to
here thus appear to confirm attract the negatively charged microspheres.
the in situ controlled floc-
culationb principle.

References
1. P Erazo-Majewicz,
JA Graham, and CR Usher,
Assessing the targeted condi-
tioning performance of cationic
polymers, Cosm & Toil 125(9)
24-30 (2010)
2. R McMullen, D Laura,
T Nuutinen and B Kroon,
Investigation of the interactions
of cosmetic ingredients with
hair by dynamic electrokinetic
and permeability analysis, Proc
HairS’ 13, Lübeck, Germany
(Sep 4-6, 2013) Figure 8. ToF-SIMS; Positive secondary ion polarity two-
3. MJ Hafey and IC Watt, The dimensional image plus overlay; red indicates C4H7+ typical hair
interaction of polymer latex
particles with wool fibers,
surface fragment and C3H8N+ in blue indicates presence of
J Coll Inter Sci 109 181-189 polymer fragments
(1986)

Additional Reading:
RY Lochhead and LR Huis-
inga, Advances in polymers for
hair conditioning shampoos,
in Hair Care: From Physiology
to Formulation, AC Kozlowski,
ed, Alluredbooks, Carol
Stream, IL (2008) pp 123-136
P Erazo-Majewicz and SC Su,
Cationic conditioning—Poly-
mer deposits on hair, J
Cosmet Sci 55 125-127
(2004)

Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 53

 Formulating | C&T

Hair Care
According to Euromonitor (see Page 8), the hair care
market grew slightly from 2013 to 2014 with Latin America
accounting for 45% of the growth, thanks to Brazil. Shampoos
and conditioners accounted for more than 60% of the global
absolute growth, driven by targeted offerings emphasizing

Directory health and beauty benefits.

In relation, presented here are hair care ingredients and
formulas provided by suppliers within the past year. These
and Formulary and other listings appear in the online Cosmetics & Toiletries
Bench Reference. Access this free resource for additional
information or to add ingredients or formulas to your own
listing at: www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/cbr.

Listings are organized as follows: Detangler Dimethicone

function
INCI Name
Trade Name, Supplier
Additional Functions (if applicable)
Antistatic Agent
Cyclopentasiloxane, Diphenyl Dimethicone
Gransil C-DPDM, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer,
Glosser, Hair Conditioner, Water-proofing
Agent
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Vivapharm CS, J. Rettenmaier &
Söhne GmbH
Additional Functions: Binder, Film-former,
Foam Booster/Stabilizer, Rheology Modifier,
Surfactant-Nonionic, Thickener
Lecithin
Cosphaderm SF-S, Cosphatec GmbH
Additional Functions: Emollient, Emulsifier,
Skin Smoothing
Maltodextrin
Maltodextrin, Formulator Sample
Shop, LLC
Additional Functions: Antiperspirant, Anti-
wrinkle, Chelating Agent, Co-emulsifier
Dandruff Treatment
Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Buriti Oil, Naturex Inc.
Additional Functions: Barrier Repair,
Moisturizer, Skin Protectant
Piroctone Olamine
Octipirox, Clariant Int. Ltd.
Additional Functions: Acne Treatment,
Antimicrobial
Amodimethicone
ICM SF 726P, TCR Industries Inc.
Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol
Maquat BTMC-25, Pilot Chemical Co.
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Hair
Conditioner, Hair Conditioner, Suspending
Agent, Wetting Agent
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone
Crosspolymer
DC 9040 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow
Corning Corp.
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Hair
Conditioner
Polyquaternium-92, Butylene Glycol, Water
(aqua)
Ceracute G, Presperse, Inc.
Additional Functions: Glosser
Emulsifier
Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20
CustoMulse CS-20D, Custom Ingredients
Feel Enhancer
Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone
Gransil VX-418, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Binder, Emollient,
Moisturizer, Rheology Modifier
C14-22 Alkane, Ethylene/Octene Copolymer
Ecosmooth Delight, The Dow Chemical Co.
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Polymer
Chitosan Succinamide
Velsan Soft, Clariant Int. Ltd.
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Polymer
Cyclopentasiloxane, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl
Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-20/23
Dimethicone
Velvesil Plus, Momentive Performance
Materials Inc.
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone
Gransil 314, Grant Industries Inc.
DM-Fluid-A-6cs, Shin-Etsu Chemical
Co. Ltd.
Endisil F-50 and F-350, Coast Southwest Inc.
Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
KSG-16, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd.
Additional Functions: Thickener
Dimethicone, Isododecane, Dimethicone/
Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Diowgel 6413, Centerchem Inc.
Additional Functions: Emollient
Glycerin, Water (aqua), Canola Oil,
Hydrogenated Lecithin, Opuntia Ficus-Indica
Seed Oil, Betula Alba Extract, Citric Acid
Hydro-Gain, Lipoid Kosmetik AG
Additional Functions: Emollient, Humectant,
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent
Glycerin, Water (aqua), Prunus Amygdalus
Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Butyrospermum
Parkii (Shea) Butter, Hydrogenated Lecithin,
Citric Acid
Shea Butter/Almond Oil Herbaspheres,
Lipoid Kosmetik AG
Additional Functions: Emollient, Humectant,
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent
Glycerin, Water (aqua), Prunus Amygdalus
Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Hydrogenated
Lecithin, Citric Acid
Almond Oil Herbaspheres, Lipoid
Kosmetik AG
Additional Functions: Emollient, Humectant,
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent
Glycerin, Water (aqua), Prunus Amygdalus
Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Hydrogenated
Lecithin, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit, Citric Acid
Orchid/Almond Oil Herbaspheres, Lipoid
Kosmetik AG
Additional Functions: Emollient, Humectant,
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent
Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate
Stepan-Mild GCC, Stepan Co.
Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier,

This information is presented in good faith, and believed to be correct, but no warranty as to accuracy of results or fitness for a particular use is given, nor is
freedom from patent infringement to be inferred. It is offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification.

54 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

 Hair can be the mirror of your soul.
Let’s polish and protect it and keep it in balance.
With our Baycusan® C 1008.
Bayer MaterialScience AG, 51368 Leverkusen, Germany · MS00070844

Your smoothest way to combine hold and flexibility!

Baycusan® C 1008 sets new benchmarks in hair care with
our three-fold formulation advantage: outstanding properties
in protection, repair and styling – for beautiful hair every day.
www.baycusan.com

Beauty Made Possible.

Formulating | C&T
Coupling Agent, Emulsifier, Foam Booster/
Stabilizer, Skin Cleanser
Glyceryl Cocoate
Stepan 745 GC, Stepan Co.
Additional Functions: Emollient, Emulsifier,
Foam Booster/Stabilizer, Surfactant-Nonionic
Hydrolyzed Milk Protein
Milk Tein NPNF, TRI-K Industries
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Film-
former, Hair Conditioner, Moisturizer,
Skin Protectant
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Soy Tein NPNF, TRI-K Industries
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Smoothing
Isododecane, Hydrogenated Tetradecenyl/
Methylpentadecene
Smart5, IMCD Group
Additional Functions: Emollient
Isododecane, Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl
Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone,
Lauryl Dimethicone
Diowgel 600, Centerchem Inc.
Jojoba Esters
Florabeads Jojoba, Floratech
Additional Functions: Acne Treatment,
Anti-aging, Exfoliant, Skin Cleanser, Skin
Smoothing
Jojoba Wax PEG-80 Esters
Florasolvs PEG-80 Jojoba, The HallStar Co.
Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier,
Emollient, Lubricant, Polymer, Rheology
Modifier, Solubilizer, Surfactant-Nonionic,
Thickener
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter
Custom Mango, Custom Ingredients
Additional Functions: Emollient, Moisturizer
Mica, Dimethicone
Distinctive Si-Sericite, Resources of
Nature Inc.
Additional Functions: Pigment
Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters
Floralipids Moringa Butter, Floratech
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Emollient,
Film-former, Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair,
Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Protectant,
Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Floralipids Moringa Oil, Floratech
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Emollient,
Hair Colorant/Dye, Hair Conditioner, Hair
Repair, Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin
Protectant, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Nylon-10/10
Tegolon ECO 10-10, Evonik Industries AG
PEG-10 Sunflower Glycerides
Florasolvs PEG-10 Sunflower,
The HallStar Co.
Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier,
Coupling Agent, Emollient, Hair Conditioner,
56 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
Refatting Agent, Stabilizer-Perfume,
Surfactant-Nonionic
Polyglyceryl-3 Rice Branate
Prolix RB, Sinerga SpA
Additional Functions: Emulsifier
Polylactic Acid
Ecoscrub 20 PC, 40 PC, 50 PC, 80 PC and
1435PC, Micro Powders Inc.
Additional Functions: Exfoliant
Polysilicone-11, Water (aqua), Laureth-12,
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Gransil EP-9, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Oil Absorbent
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Stepan SLL-FB, Stepan Co.
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Foam
Booster/Stabilizer, Skin Smoothing,
Surfactant-Anionic
Sodium Polyacrylate, Isotridecyl
Isononanoate, Trideceth-6
Viscoptima LV, Croda Inc.
Additional Functions: Emulsifier
Sodium Polyacrylate, Trideceth-6, Ethylhexyl
Stearate
Cosmedia ATH, BASF SE
Additional Functions: Thickener
Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Gransil VX-401, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Adhesion Promoter,
Moisturizer, Rheology Modifier
Stearyl Stearate, Candelilla Wax (proposed),
Jojoba Esters
Ecobeads, Floratech
Additional Functions: Acne Treatment,
Anti-aging, Exfoliant, Skin Cleanser, Skin
Smoothing
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Custom CB, Custom Ingredients
Additional Functions: Emollient, Hair
Conditioner, Moisturizer, Skin Treatment-
Chapped Skin
Tridecane, Undecane
Cetiol Ultimate, BASF SE
Additional Functions: Emollient
Water (aqua), Amodimethicone,
Dimethicone, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose,
VP/VA Copolymer, Adipic Acid/Neopentyl
Glycol Crosspolymer
AuraSphere N, Centerchem Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle
Water (aqua), Sodium Hyaluronate
DL Biomoist, Deveraux Specialties, LLC
Additional Functions: Emollient, Hair
Conditioner, Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin
Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Treatment-
Chapped Skin , Thickener
Film-former
Adipic Acid, Neopentyl Glycol, Water (aqua),
Dimethicone, Hydroxycellulose (proposed),
Amodimethicone
DL IWS, Deveraux Specialties, LLC
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
wrinkle, Oil Absorbent, Skin Protectant, Skin
Smoothing
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol
Crodasone P, Croda Europe Ltd.
Additional Functions: Polymer
Keratin, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Water (aqua)
Keratec IFP PE, Croda Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Hair Repair
Polyamide-3
Oleocraft HP-31 and MP-30, Croda
Europe Ltd.
Additional Functions: Gellant, Polymer
Polyamide-8
Oleocraft LP-20, Croda Europe Ltd.
Additional Functions: Gellant, Polymer
Polyethylene
Acculin 400, The International Group
Additional Functions: Abrasive, Binder,
Exfoliant, Gellant, Polymer, Thickener
Acculin 500, The International Group
Additional Functions: Abrasive, Binder,
Gellant, Polymer, Rheology Modifier,
Thickener
Polyethyloxazoline
Endicare DP-520S, Coast Southwest Inc.
Polyurethane-34
Baycusan C 1000, Bayer MaterialScience AG
Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch
Vivastar CS, J. Rettenmaier & Söhne GmbH
Additional Functions: Binder, Gellant,
Rheology Modifier, Stabilizer-Emulsion,
Thickener
Fixative
Glycerylamidoethyl Methacrylate/Stearyl
Methacrylate Copolymer, Glycerin, Butylene
Glycol, PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate, Water
(aqua)
Ceracute V, Presperse, Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair-set Polymer/
Resin
Myristic/Palmitic/Stearic/Ricinoleic/
Eicosanedioic Glycerides, Dextrin Palmitate
Nikkol Wood Wax, Nikko Chemicals
Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Moisturizer
Polyquaternium-51, Water (aqua)
Lipidure B, Presperse, Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair-set Polymer/
Resin
Foaming Agent/Foamer
Sodium Methyl-2 Sulfolaurate, Disodium
2-Sulfolaurate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine,
Lauramide MEA, Cetrimonium Chloride, PEG-
150 Distearate, Methylchloroisothiazolinone,
Methylisothiazolinone
Alpha-Step HWC, Stepan Co.
Hair Anti-aging
Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Protein
Baobab Tein NPNF, TRI-K Industries
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair
Phospholipids, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil,
Glycolipids, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols
Amisol Trio, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair, Moisturizer,
Skin Protectant
Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus
(Sunflower) Seed Oil
Sunflohair, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Shampoo, Hair Colorant/Dye,
Hair Conditioner
Sphinganine
Sphingony, Evonik Industries AG
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Sodium
Metabisulfite, Glycine, Larix Europaea Wood
Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract,
Zinc Chloride
Redensyl, Induchem AG
Additional Functions: Antioxidant
Water (aqua), Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine
Soja (Soybean) Lipids, Phospholipids
DL Lipids II, Deveraux Specialties, LLC
Additional Functions: Barrier Repair,
Delivery System, Hair Conditioner, Hair
Repair, Humectant, Stabilizer-Emulsion,
Suspending Agent
Hair Conditioner
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Aloe Vera, Carillon Green Inc.
Additional Functions: Acne Treatment,
Anti-inflammatory, Anti-wrinkle, Emollient,
Hair Cleanser/Shampoo, Moisturizer, Skin
Cleanser, Skin Smoothing, Sunscreen-UVA
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil,
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Sesamum
Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Sesamum
Indicum (Sesame) Oil, Curcumin
Amla Curcumin and Omega-3 Oil,
International Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Shampoo, Hair Repair
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil,
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Sesamum
Indicum (Sesame) Oil, Sesamum Indicum
(Sesame) Seed Oil
Amla/Omega-3 Oil, International Cosmetic
Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Shampoo, Hair Repair
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract,
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil,
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil, Emblica
Officinalis Fruit Extract, Linum Usitatissimum
(Linseed) Seed Oil, Brassica Campestris
(Rapeseed) Seed Oil
Amla/Omega-3 Butter, International
Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Shampoo, Hair Repair
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract,
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil, Sesamum
Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Emblica
Officinalis Fruit Extract, Linum Usitatissimum
(Linseed) Seed Oil, Brassica Campestris
(Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Curcumin
Amla Curcumin/Omega-3 Butter,
International Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Hair Repair
Egg Oil, Canola Oil
Eyova, VAV Life Sciences Pvt. Ltd.
Additional Functions: Hair Repair
Galactoarabinan Hydroxypropyltrimonium
Chloride
Laraquat, Lonza Personal Care
Glyceryl Caprylate, Pentylene Glycol,
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Cosphaderm MultiMEG, Cosphatec GmbH
Additional Functions: Acne Treatment,
Antibacterial, Anticaries Agent, Anti-
inflammatory, Anti-irritant, Antimicrobial,
Antioxidant, Skin Smoothing
Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleyl Alcohol/
Succinic Acid Copolymer
Zenerbet, Zenitech
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
PEG-150
Polyglykol 6000 S, Clariant Int. Ltd.
PEG-16 Macadamia Glycerides
Florasolvs PEG-16 Macadamia,
The HallStar Co.
Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier,
Emollient, Moisturizer, Refatting Agent,
Solubilizer, Surfactant-Nonionic
Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride
N-DurHance A-1000 Conditioning Polymer,
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Additional Functions: Hair Repair
Polyquaternium-53
Merquat 2003PR Polymer, Lubrizol
Advanced Materials, Inc.
Additional Functions: Foam Booster/
Stabilizer
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil,
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil, Brassica
Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Emblica
Officinalis Fruit Extract, Linum Usitatissimum
(Linseed) Seed Oil
Amla/Omega-3 Wax, International
Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Shampoo
Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Distearyl Ether,
Dicaprylyl Ether, PEG-4 Distearyl Ether
Lamesoft Care, BASF SE
Additional Functions: Emollient
Squalene
Nikkol Squalene, Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Skin Smoothing
Nikkol Squalene EX, Nikko Chemicals
Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Smoothing
Tridecyl Salicylate
BTN, Vevy Europe SpA
Water (aqua), Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
PG-Propyl Silanetriol
Keravis PE, Croda Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair Repair
Water (aqua), Starch
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Sodium
Chloride, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Urea,
Glycerin, Anisic Acid, Levulinic Acid
Dermofeel Quadegra, Dr. Straetmans
Chemische Produkte GmbH
Hair Repair
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Hydrogenated
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Premium Organic Argan Butter,
Naturochim S.A.S.
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Hydrogenated
Coconut Oil
Premium Organic Coconut Butter,
Naturochim S.A.S.
Glycerin, Water (aqua), Chrysanthellum
Indicum Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf
Extract
Lanatelli, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-irritant, Cooling Agent, Skin Cooling/
Soothing, Skin Healing
Lubricant
Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane
Xiameter PMX-0345 Cyclosiloxane Blend,
Dow Corning Corp.
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Wecobee M, Stepan Co.
Additional Functions: Emollient, Ointment
Base
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Cupuaçu Butter–Ultra Refined,
The HallStar Co.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
wrinkle, Emollient, Lanolin Substitute,
Moisturizer, Rheology Modifier, Skin
Treatment-Chapped Skin
Polymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tego Carbomer 750 HD, Evonik
Industries AG
Additional Functions: Stabilizer-Emulsion,
Suspending Agent, Thickener
Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 57
Formulating | C&T

Preservative Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl

Caprylic Acid, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract MEYUSU CDL-39, Guangzhou Jaonron Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Water
MicroCurb OC, Kemin Trading Co., Ltd. (aqua), Cocamide MIPA
CalBlend DF, Pilot Chemical Co.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate Xanthan Gum
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Leucidal Liquid, Formulator Sample Cosphaderm X 34, Cosphatec GmbH
Shampoo, Skin Cleanser
Shop, LLC Additional Functions: Binder, Emulsifier,
Stabilizer-Emulsion, Thickener Sodium Trideceth Sulfate
Rheology Modifier Sulfochem TD-365DXS Surfactant, Lubrizol
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Cetrimonium Surfactant-Anionic Advanced Materials, Inc.
Chloride Lauramide DEA
D.S.A. 7, Agrana Staerke GmbH Pel-Amid LD-70, TCR Industries Inc. Surfactant-Cationic
Myristamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride
Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein,
Phosphate, Water (aqua)
Hydriol PGC.2, Hydrior AG Water (aqua)
Arlasilk PTM, Croda Inc.
Additional Functions: Thickener Olivoil Avenate Surfactant, Kalichem
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Co-
Italia S.r.l.
Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate emulsifier
Hydriol PGC.3, Hydrior AG Sodium Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium
Additional Functions: Solubilizer Chloride Phosphate Surfactant-Nonionic
Phoenotaine C-35, Phoenix Chemical Inc. Cocamide MEA
Surfactant-Amphoteric Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Comperlan CMEA, BASF SE
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MIPA Lauryl Glucoside
Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine CalBlend SF, Pilot Chemical Co. EcoSense 1200, The Dow Chemical Co.
Chemoryl SFB-10SK Surfactant Blend, Coast Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Additional Functions: Foaming Agent/
Southwest Inc. Shampoo, Skin Cleanser Foamer
Additional Functions: Surfactant-Anionic,
Surfactant-Cationic, Surfactant-Nonionic Sodium Laureth Sulfate Microcrystalline Cellulose, Xanthan Gum
Sulfochem ES-70DXS (2 mole) Surfactant, Vivapur CS XV, J. Rettenmaier &
Lauramide MIPA Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Söhne GmbH
Amidex LIPA Surfactant, Lubrizol Advanced Additional Functions: Binder, Emulsifier,
Materials, Inc. Sodium Laureth Sulfate, PEG-80 Sorbitan
Laurate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-150 Gellant, Rheology Modifier, Stabilizer-
Additional Functions: Surfactant-Anionic, Emulsion
Distearate
Surfactant-Cationic, Surfactant-Nonionic
Calblend Mild, Pilot Chemical Co. Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Hydriol PGCL.4, Hydrior AG
Chemonic LI-7, Coast Southwest Inc. Shampoo, Skin Cleanser Additional Functions: Solubilizer
Additional Functions: Surfactant-Anionic,
Surfactant-Cationic, Surfactant-Nonionic

Hair Care Formulas

Sustainable Sea Salt Texturizing Spritz
(AkzoNobel Personal Care)
This alcohol-free, water-based spritz uses Biostyle CGP polymer to provide stiffness
and humidity-resistance to sculpt and style wet hair, and provides medium hold and
stiffness when dry. The maltodextrin-derived Biostyle CGP polymer is a low-viscosity,
easy to formulate liquid, which requires no heating or neutralization, giving the formula-
tor a simple way to create more natural and sustainable styling products. This spray
contains no alcohol or propellants.
A. Water (aqua) 81.18% w/w
B. Maltodextrin/VP Copolymer
(BioStyle GGP, AkzoNobel, Personal Care) 16.67
C. Propylene Glycol 0.10
Panthenol 0.15
PEG-12 Dimethicone 0.20
Sea Salts 1.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
(euxyl PE 9010, Schulke & Mayr GmbH) 0.70
100.00
Procedure: Into the main mixing vessel charge A and mix at 600 rpm using a 4-leaf propel-
ler blade. Add B and mix until homogeneous. Add C to AB, mixing well between each
addition.
Repairing Shampoo
(BASF Corp.)
This is an excellent shampoo and powerful conditioner in one product. Lamesoft Care
is a liquid wax dispersion with proven properties to enhance shine, improve combability
and reduce hair breakage. A highly micronized wheat protein also penetrates deep into
the hair shaft to provide strength from within.
A. Laureth-2 (Arlypon F/F-T, BASF SE) 2.00% w/w
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
(Jaguar C13S, C14S or C-17, Solvay Novecare) 0.20
B. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (Texapon N 70 or N702, BASF SE) 14.30
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
C. Cocamidopropyl Betaine
(Dehyton K, K-COS, KE or PK 45, BASF SE) 6.40
Laureth-2 (Arlypon F/F-T, BASF SE) 1.00
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Distearyl Ether (and) Dicaprylyl Ether
(and) PEG-4 Distearyl Ether (Lamesoft Care, BASF SE) 4.00
D. Sodium Chloride 0.60
E. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 0.50
Citric Acid qs
Preservatives qs
Dyes qs
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Procedure: Combine A. Combine B and mix until uniform. Add A to B and continue mixing.
While mixing, add C to AB. Make sure each ingredient is homogeneously incorporated
before adding the next. Slowly add D and mix well. Add E to batch.
Simply Strong Styling Gel
(BASF SE)
A. Water (aqua) 84.30% w/w
Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone
(Kathon CG, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.10
Acrylates/Methacrylamide Copolymer (Luviset One, BASF SE) 13.60
B. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Cremophor CO 40, BASF AG) 0.40
Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
C. Aminomethyl Propanol 1.50
100.00

58 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

Procedure: Mix A and B separately until homogeneous. Add B to A and mix until homoge-
neous. Add C to batch and mix until clear.
Color Protective Conditioning Sulfate-Free Shampoo
(Biosil Technologies Inc.)
This elegant, mild, sulfate-free shampoo contains Biosil Basics Amino DL-30 CE to
provide color protection, wet-combing and anti-breakage benefits, and conditioning
and shine. The addition of Biosil Basics SPQ CE and BioPlex Cetylsil S-PF enhance hair
conditioning and manageability properties. BioPlex Cetylsil S-PF significantly reduces
irritation and Biosil Basics HMW is an exclusive blend for hair moisturization.
A. Water (aqua) qs
Polyacrylate-33 (Rheomer 33, Solvay Novecare) 5.00% w/w
B. Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate 28.00
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate 9.40
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine 1.60
C. Citric Acid 0.90
D. Dimethiconol Panthenol
(Biosil Basics Amino DL-30 CE, Biosil Technologies Inc.) 5.00
Orange 4 0.06
Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate
(Biosil Basics SPQ CE, Biosil Technologies Inc.) 0.50
Cetyl Triethylmonium Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate
(BioPlex Cetylsil S-PF, Biosil Technologies Inc.) 1.00
Acetamide MEA (and) Panthenol (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
(and) Hyaluronic Acid (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Linolenic Acid
(and) Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil (and) Simmondsia
Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Sorbitol (and) Tocopherol
(Biosil Basics HMW, Biosil Technologies Inc.) 5.00
Sodium Chloride 1.50
Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone
(Kathon CG, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.05
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate (and) Glycol Stearate (and)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Mirasheen SSE, Solvay Novecare) 5.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.50
Red 40 0.08
Procedure: Mix A until uniform. Add B to A in order with mixing. Adjust pH to 5.5 with C.
Add D to batch in order with mixing; parameters: pH 5.26; viscosity 12,470 CPS S#5 @
6RPM; stability = eight weeks stability at 4°C, RT, 45°C and 3 F/T cycles.
Blow Dry Defender Spritz
(Croda Inc.)
This hair-defending super spritz provides thermal activated protection against cuticle
damage caused by blow-drying and styling thanks to Crodasone P, which forms a
protective film at the hair surface upon drying. Hydrosativum P enables the hair to
absorb moisture at low humidities and therefore maintain hydration during blow-drying.
Extracts of pea and goji give this fruity spritz superfood defense.
A. Fragrance (parfum) 0.10% w/w
PEG-60 Almond Glycerides (and) PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric
Glycerides (Crodasol AC, Croda Europe Ltd.) 5.00
B. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Acetamide MEA (and) Lactamide MEA
(Incromectant LAMEA, Croda Inc.) 5.00
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit
Extract (Fruitliquid Goji EC, Croda Inc.) 1.00
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and)
Methylisothiazolinone (euxyl K 100, Schulke & Mayr GmbH) 0.10
C. Hydrolyzed Pea Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol
(Crodasone P, Croda Europe Ltd.) 2.00
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein (Hydrosativum P, Croda Europe Ltd.) 2.00
D. Colorants 0.75
Procedure: Combine A and mix well. Add A to B with stirring. Add C to AB. Adjust pH to
6.5–7.0. Add D with stirring.
DD Hair Rescue Shield
(Croda Inc.)
This daily defense (DD) hair rescue shield offers ultimate protection and repair for young-
er looking hair. The 10-in-one concept is met using the following actives: Keramimic
2.0, Crodasone P, Keravis PE, Kerate IFP PE and Incroquat Behenyl TMS-50 to give
anti-breakage, blow-dry defense, targeted repair, long-lasting conditioning, anti-aging,
environmental protection, moisturization, gloss, smoothing and detangling benefits.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Stearyl Alcohol (Crodacol S-95, Croda Inc.) 4.80
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene
Glycol (Incroquat Behenyl TMS50, Croda Inc.) 2.40
B. Water (aqua) (and) Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed
Keratin (Kerestore 2.0, Croda Inc.) 2.00
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol
(Crodasone P, Croda Europe Ltd.) 2.00
Water (aqua) (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl
Silanetriol (Keravis PE, Croda Inc.) 2.00
Keratin (and) Hydrolyzed Keratin (and) Water (aqua)
(Keratec IFP PE, Croda Inc.) 0.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.50
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and)
Methylisothiazolinone (euxyl K 100, Schulke & Mayr GmbH) 0.15
Colorants 0.42
C. Citric Acid qs
Procedure: Combine A and mix on a hot plate at 65–70°C. Once homogenous, turn off heat
and continue stirring. At RT, add B individually to A with stirring. Adjust pH to 5.0 with C.
Recovery Hair Mask
(The HallStar Company)
Combining naturally derived olive oil ingredients, this recovery hair mask helps repair
dry, over-processed and color-treated hair. A small amount is powerful enough to
restore softness, luster and shine to damaged hair in minutes. This formula increases
hair’s resistance to breakage while healing, protecting and preventing further damage.
A. Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate
(Olivem 1000, The HallStar Company) 2.00% w/w
Ethylhexyl Olivate (Sensolene, The HallStar Company) 2.00
Hydrogenated Olive Oil (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil (and) Olea
Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
(Oliwax, The HallStar Company) 1.00
Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters (Olivem 300, The HallStar Company) 1.00
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
(Avocado Oil-Ultra Refined, The HallStar Company) 0.50
Cetearyl Alcohol (HallStar TA-1618 Cetearyl Alcohol,
The HallStar Company) 3.00
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.10
B. Water (aqua) 85.60
Cetrimonium Chloride 4.00
C. Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and)
Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben
(Euxyl K 340, Schulke & Mayr GmbH) 0.80
Fragrance (parfum) qs
100.00
Procedure: In separate vessels, heat A and B to 75–80°C. At 75°C, add B to A under agita-
tion using a suitable dispersion unit (e.g., Silverson, Ultra Turrax). Homogenize for a few
minutes, then cool under gentle stirring. At 40°C, add C. Mix until uniform and at desired
filling temperature; properties (25°C): appearance = white, shiny cream; viscosity (20
rpm, Brk, RVDV-E, Sp 4, after 24 hr @ RT) = 3,000–7,000 mPa∙s; pH (100%) = 3.5–4.0.
Hair Tonic
(Induchem AG)
This clear, colorless liquid has a refreshing smell and features Redensyl, the
in-cosmetics 2014 silver-award winning hair growth active.
A. Water (aqua) 75.87% w/w
Isopropyl Alcohol 17.00
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Metabisulfite (and)
Glycine (and) Larix Europaea Wood Extract (and) Camellia
Sinensis Leaf Extract (and) Zinc Chloride
(Redensyl, Induchem AG) 3.00
Glycerin 3.00
B. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.02
C. Sodium Citrate 0.08
Citric Acid 0.04
100.00
Procedure: Blend A while stirring until homogenous. Mix B until homogenous. Add A slowly
while stirring into B. Adjust pH to 5.2 to 5.4 with C.
‘Stronger’ Hair Gel
(Induchem AG)
This green, transparent gel not only holds hair in place, but it also decreases hair loss.
It contains white beads for a pleasant visual effect, which upon breaking during ap-
plication, deliver pigments to cover grey hair.
Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 59
Formulating | C&T
A. Water (aqua) 59.48% w/w
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.50
Citric Acid 0.01
Phenoxyethanol 1.00
Ethylhexylglycerin 0.35
Water (aqua) (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Tamarindus Indica
Seed Extract (Unitamuron H-22, Induchem AG) 2.00
Propanediol 4.00
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Metabisulfite (and)
Glycine (and) Larix Europaea Wood Extract (and) Camellia
Sinensis Leaf Extract (and) Zinc Chloride
(Redensyl, Induchem AG) 1.00
Sodium Citrate 0.02
B. Triethanolamine 0.53
C. Fragrance (parfum) 0.15
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.80
Water (aqua) 24.00
VP/VA Copolymer 4.00
Laurtrimonium Chloride 0.01
D. Water (aqua) 0.15
Mannitol (and) Cellulose (and) Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) (and)
Iron Oxides (CI 77492) (and) Iron Oxides (CI 77491) (and) Mica
(and) Barium Sulfate (and) Iron Oxides (CI 77499) (and) Acrylates
Copolymer (and) Silica (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
(Unispheres WRNM-558 Bi, Induchem) 2.00
100.00
Procedure: Premix A under stirring. Add B to A. Add C to AB under stirring. Add D to batch
under stirring, shortly before filling.
Smooth White Styling and Treatment Cream
(Kemin)
This lightweight leave-on hair treatment can be used to style and groom hair, provid-
ing shine without a greasy after-feel. Formulation features include Lysofix Liquid and
Rosamox ingredients, a soothing antioxidant, and 98.5% total natural ingredients. This
leave-on cream also detangles hair, helps to control frizz, adds shine, tames fly-aways
and is easy to spread through hair.
A. Water (aqua) 71.50% w/w
B. Carbomer 0.50
C. Glycerin 3.00
D. Glycerin (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract
(Lysofix Liquid, Kemin) 3.50
E. Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (Carthamus
Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Southern Cross Botanicals
Pty. Ltd.) 12.00
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil 6.00
Coco-Caprylate 2.00
F. Sodium Hydroxide 0.50
G. Caprylic Acid (and) Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract
(MicroCurb OC, Kemin) 1.00
100.00
Procedure: Weigh A in main beaker. Sprinkle B into A while mixing continuously. Add C after
30 min. Add D to the main batch. Add E to the main batch. Neutralize with F to pH 5.5
± 0.5. Add G and mix until uniform.
Teal Hair Shadow
(Kemin)
This temporary makeup is designed for application to hair like an eyeshadow, for instant
teal highlights. Formulation features include Lysofix Liquid and Rosamox ingredients
as well as pearl and matte pigments, a soothing antioxidant and 45% total natural
ingredients. The formula adds color and shine to hair, is easy to apply, is easy to wash
out and is a soft alternative to hair chalk color.
A. Mica 31.85% w/w
Pigment Blue 29 (proposed) 1.00
Silica 0.00
Boron Nitride 6.00
Zinc Stearate 3.00
Lauroyl Lysine 2.00
Talc 3.00
Iron Oxides 77499 0.65
Chromium Oxide Green 8.00
Iron Oxides CI 77492 0.50
60 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015
B. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.00
Glyceryl Undecylenate 0.00
Dimethicone 2.00
Diisostearyl Malate 2.00
Polyquaternium-11
(Gafquat 734, 755 or 755N, Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 1.00
PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer (Unimer U-151, Induchem AG) 4.00
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Rosmarinus
Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Rosamox, Kemin) 0.50
Glycerin (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract
(Lysofix Liquid, Kemin) 1.00
Bis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) Isostearamide
(Keradyn HH, Croda Inc.) 2.00
Glyceryl Caprylate (Lexgard GMCY, INOLEX, Incorporated) 1.50
C. Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Ferric Ferrocyanide
(Duocrome BG (Blue/Green) 826C, BASF Corp.) 15.00
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Ferric Ferrocyanide
(Cloisonne Blue 626C, BASF Corp.) 9.00
100.00
Procedure: Grind A until colors are uniformly suspended. Add B and grind until powders are
coated uniformly. Add Phase C and grind until uniform.
Usnea Barbata Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
(Lipoid Kosmetik AG)
Usnic acid is the main active in the lichen Usnea barbata. This active is known for its
antimicrobial, anti-dandruff and antibacterial benefits. It is featured in this anti-dandruff
shampoo, which has been shown to reduced dandruff by 50% after 28 days.
A. Water (aqua) 49.00% w/w
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Preservatives qs
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Glycol Distearate (and) Cocamide
MEA (and) Laureth-12 3.00
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 0.50
Sodium Laureth Sulfate 25.00
Cocoamidopropyl Trimethylammonium Chloride PEG-8
Dimethicone Succinate 10.00
PEG-10 Olive Glycerides 2.00
Soyamide DEA 2.50
MIPA-Lauryl Sulfate 5.00
Laureth-3 1.00
Propanediol (and) Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract (and)
Tromethamine (and) Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (and)
Water (aqua) (and) Sodium Hydroxide
(usNeo, Lipoid Kosmetik AG) 2.00
100.00
Procedure: Mix ingredients in given order whilst stirring.
Light and Mighty Men’s Styling Pomade
(Lonza Personal Care)
A. Water (aqua) 67.70% w/w
B. Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 12.00
Triglyceryl Monostearate (Polyaldo TGMS, Lipoid GmbH) 3.00
Decaglyceryl Monooleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
(Polyaldo 10-1-0, Lipoid GmbH) 11.00
Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate (Polyaldo DGDO, Lipoid GmbH) 1.00
Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone (and) Phenyl Trimethicone
(Gel Base BSM5, Lonza Personal Care) 1.00
Dicaprylyl Carbonate 1.00
PVP/VA Copolymer (PVP/VA E-735, I-735, W-735, E-635,
W-635, E-535, I-535, E-335 or I-335, Ashland Specialty
Ingredients) 0.30
C. Galactoarabinan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
(Laraquat, Lonza Personal Care) 2.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Chlorphenesin
(Mikrokill COS, Lonza Personal Care) 0.75
Fragrance (parfum) 0.25
100.00
Procedure: Weigh A and begin heating to 75°C. Weigh B and heat to 75°C. Mix until uniform.
Add B to A while mixing. Begin cooling. At 45°C or lower, add C to AB. Mixing well be-
tween each addition. Pour off into containers. The pH of the formulation should be 6–6.5.
 ‘Lighter Than Air’ Leave-in Conditioning Foam
(Lonza Personal Care)
This leave-in foam feaetures Laraquat specialty conditioning polymer, which has sub-
stantive film-forming properties to condition and protect hair, improving manageability
and reducing static, fly-aways and frizz. Polyaldo 10-1-O smoothes and conditions
hair, while Polyaldo 10-1-CC provides foam enhancement, additional hair smoothing
and conditioning effects, and solvency for fragrance. Amphoterge W-2 works as a
secondary mild surfactant to provide foam and conditioning feel. Glydant Plus Liquid
protects the integrity of this formula.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Glycerin 4.00
Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate 1.55
Decaglyceryl Monooleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
(Polyaldo 10-1-0, Lonza) 0.75
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 2.00
DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
(Glydant Plus Liquid, Lonza) 0.20
Galactoarabinan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
(Laraquat, Lonza Personal Care) 2.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
Procedure: Mix all ingredients at 35–45°C until a clear solution results. The pH of the for-
mulation should be 6.5–7.5.
Mild Color Retention Shampoo
(Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.)
Maintain color-treated hair with this mild, DEA-, paraben- and silicone-free shampoo.
Sulfochem TD-365DXS surfactant is an excellent choice for mild shampoos where color
retention is desired. Naturally derived Chembetaine OL-30 surfactant is a mild, emol-
lient conditioning surfactant contributing to the viscosity and foaming properties of the
shampoo. Merquat 2001 polymer improves combing and detangling properties, while
Hydramol PGDS ester contributes excellent conditioning, ensuring a smooth afterfeel.
Glucamate VLT thickener provides mildness and pleasing flow aesthetics.
A. Water (aqua) 74.00% w/w
Disodium EDTA (Protachem NA2-P, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 0.10
B. Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS 40, BASF AG) 0.05
Polyquaternium-47 (Merquat 2001 or 2001N,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 2.00
Oleyl Betaine (Chembetaine OL-30 Surfactant,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 6.25
C. PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate (and) Propanediol
(Glucamate VLT Thickener, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 1.50
PEG-90 Diisostearate (Hydramol PGDS Ester,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.30
Lauramide MIPA (Amidex LIPA Surfactant,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.80
D. Sodium Trideceth Sulfate (Sulfochem TD-365DXS Surfactant,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 13.85
E. D&C Red No. 33 0.75
F. DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
(Glydant Plus Liquid, Lonza) 0.40
100.00
Procedure: In a large vessel, with mixing, add EDTA to slightly warm (30–35°C) water and
mix until completely dispersed. Add B in order to A and mix well between each addition.
Start heating batch to 65–70°C. When batch reaches 65–70°C, add C to AB, mixing
well between each addition. When all solids are melted and batch is uniform, discontinue
heat and add D. When uniform, begin cooling to 25°C. At 25°C, color match with E,
then add F.
Anti-aging Hair Spray
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
Claims: Sprayable formula with 5% silicone; fights grey hair; provides thicker hair;
paraben-free
A. Water (aqua) 84.40% w/w
Sodium Phytate 0.10
Glycerin 2.00
Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and)
Pullulan (Ecogel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 0.60
B. Dimethicone 5.00
Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
(Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals) 0.30
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and)
Hydrogenated Lecithin (Heliofeel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 2.00
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair
C. Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Sodium Levulinate (and)
Sodium Anisate (Dermosoft 1388, Dr. Straetmans) 3.00
D. Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Dextran (and) Acetyl
Tetrapeptide-3 (and) Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract
(Capixyl, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 0.50
Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Dextran (and) Acetyl
Hexapeptide-1 (Melitane, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 0.50
E. Water (aqua) 1.00
Ribose (Riboxyl, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 0.50
F. Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
100.00
Procedure: Heat A and B to 70-75°C. Keep A under medium stirring for 20 min to hydrate
phospholipids. Add B to A under maximum stirring and maintain stirring rate for 3 min
to emulsify. Cool under medium stirring. Add C, D, E and F below 40°C. Adjust pH if
necessary; specifications: appearance = off-white fluid lotion; viscosity (Rheo ELV 8,
spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 min) = 1000–2000 mPa.s; pH = 5.0–5.5; centrifugation (3000 rpm,
20 min) = stable.
Basic Dry-end Hair Care
(Naturochim S.A.S.)
This cream is indicated to treat dry hair with damaged ends. It contains Naturochim’s
NAT Deodorized Walnut Oil, which gives hair a silky and smooth feel, and Premium
Organic Avocado Butter, which imparts a rich texture and nourishing properties.
A. Water (aqua) 78.25% w/w
Glycerin 5.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00
B. Laurylpyridinium Chloride (Dehyquart C, BASF SE) 6.00
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.50
C. Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil (and) Hydrogenated Avocado
Oil (Premium Organic Avocado Butter, Naturochim S.A.S.) 2.00
Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Oil 5.00
D. Sodium Benzoate 0.50
E. Fragrance (parfum) 0.75
F. Citric Acid, 50% 0.00
100.00
Procedure: Blend and heat A at 80°C until ingredients melted. While stirring, add B. Mix
for 5 min and incorporate C into AB. Mix for 15 min and cool. At 50°C, introduce D to
batch. At 34°C, add E and mix for 5 min. Adjust pH to 4.3 with F.
Hair and Scalp Cream Mask
(Naturochim S.A.S.)
This hair and scalp mask contains Naturochim’s Premium Organic Argan Butter and
NAT Organic Argan Wax, which impart body to the cream while acting as emollient
and moisturizing agents to treat damaged hair. In addition, the Organic Deodorized
Pomegranate Oil is rich in conjugated fatty acids, mainly punicic, and shows strong
anti-inflammatory properties. It is recommended for dry and irritated scalps.
A. Water (aqua) 64.70% w/w
Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Products Co., LLC) 5.00
Sorbitol (Neosorb 70% or solid, Roquette America Inc.) 3.00
Inulin (Inutec H25P, Beneo-Bio Based Chemicals) 3.00
B. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
(Aristoflex AVC, Clariant Int. Ltd.) 0.80
C. Glyceryl Undecylenate 0.50
Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol CC, BASF SE) 10.00
Hydrogenated Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 1.00
Punica Granatum Seed Oil 2.50
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (and) Hydrogenated Argania
Spinosa Kernel Oil (Premium Organic Argan Butter,
Naturochim S.A.S.) 3.00
Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) Glyceryl
Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (Phytocream 2000,
Sinerga SpA) 6.00
Tocopherol 0.40
D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
100.00
Procedure: Under mixing, combine A and heat to 80°C. Add B while stirring to obtain a
homogenous blend. Combine C and heat up 75°C When both AB and C have reached
the required temperatures, slowly pour C into AB. Mix for 10 min until homogenous and
allow batch to cool. At 30°C introduce D; empty out at 28–30°C.
Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 61
Formulating | C&T

Premium Grade Shampoo
(Pilot Chemical Co.)
A. Water (aqua) 58.00% w/w
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine
(and) Cocamide MIPA (CalBlend SF, Pilot Chemical Co.) 40.00
Sodium Chloride 2.00
Citric Acid qs
Dyes qs
Preservatives qs
100.00
Procedure: Add all ingredients in the order listed with continuous mixing. Mix well after each
ingredient is added and then an additional hour after all ingredients are added or until the
batch is clear, smooth, homogeneous and free of lumps/particles.
Sprayable Hair Shine SPF 15
(Stepan Co.)
This lotion is easy to spray and evenly distributed on the skin to provide great, light
after-feel.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Quaternium-82 (StepanQuat ML, Stepan Co.) 2.50
PEG-12 Laurate 0.50
B. Cyclomethicone 20.00
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate 2.00
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00
Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 1.50
C. Preservatives qs
Dyes qs
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Procedure: Prepare A. Prepare B. Add A into B. Mix for 20-25 min. Add C to AB. Homog-
enize for 3-5 min at 5000 rpm.
Hair Styling Wax
(Floratech)
This formula provides flexible hair style control and leaves hair shiny and conditioned.
Floraesters 15, Floraesters 20 and Florasun 90 contribute to these properties.
A. Petrolatum 28.5%
Cera Alba (Beeswax) (Beeswax, Strahl & Pitsch Inc.) 6.0
Cyclomethicone (and) Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate
(and) Quaternium-18 (Bentone Gel VS-5PC, Elementis PLC) 5.0
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (Florasun 90, Floratech) 5.0
Jojoba Esters (Floraesters 20, Floratech) 3.0
Jojoba Esters (Floraesters 15, Floratech) 7.0
Talc
(Supra H, Luzenac Group) 2.0
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (Carnauba Wax Yellow #1,
Strahl & Pitsch Inc.) 6.0
B. Water (aqua) qs
Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters 10.0
Preservatives qs
C. Fragrance (parfum) qs
Tocopherol (Covi-OX T-50 or T-70, BASF SE) 1.0
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 90°C with propeller agitation. Mix for 20 min. Combine
B and mix at 80°C with propeller agitation. When B is completely mixed, add slowly to
A with rapid propeller agitation. Cool batch to 75°C and add C. Transfer to container(s)
while still hot and fluid. Cool to RT.
Natural Hair Pomade
(Floratech)
Floratech’s Floraesters 70 adds structure to this pomade, while Floramac Macadamia
Oil Refined and Florasun 90 contribute to emolliency, shine and conditioning.
A. Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (Crystal O, Vertellus
Performance Materials Inc.) qs
Cera Alba (Beeswax) (Beeswax, Strahl & Pitsch Inc.) 8.0% w/w
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil (Floramac Macadamia Oil,
Floratech) 3.0
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (Florasun 90,
Floratech) 15.0
Jojoba Esters (Floraesters 70, Floratech) 1.0
Preservatives qs
B. Tocopherol (Covi-OX T-50 or T-70, BASF SE) 0.2
Fragrance (parfum) qs
C. Colorants qs
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 80°C with propeller agitation. Mix until homogeneous.
Add B to A and mix at 80°C with propeller agitation. Add C until desired color is attained.
Anti-hair Loss Cream
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
A. Water (aqua) 78.95% w/w
Sodium Phytate 0.15
C12-16 Alcohols (and) Lecithin (and) Palmitic Acid
(Biophilic S, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 6.00
Chlorphenesin 0.30
B. Glycerin 1.00
Xanthan Gum 0.70
C. Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (Dermofeel BGC,
Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 3.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex Shea, AAK) 2.00
Dimethicone (Abil 350, Evonik Industries AG) 1.20
Phenoxyethanol 0.60
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (Dermofeel SL, Dr. Straetmans
Chemische Produkte GmbH) 1.00
D. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Dextran (and)
Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract (and) Water (aqua)
(Capixyl , Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 5.00
E. Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
100.00
Procedure: Heat A and C to 70-75°C. Keep A under stirring for 20 min to hydrate phospho-
lipids. Add premix B into A and stir until the product is thick and homogeneous. Add C
into AB and stir strongly until the product is homogeneous. Cool under stirring. Add D
and E below 40°C. Adjust pH if necessary; specifications: appearance = white supple
cream; viscosity (Rheo ELV8, Spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 min) = 15,000-25,000 mPa.s; pH =
5.0–5.5; centrifugation (3000 rpm, 20 min) = stable.

Supplier Listing
Agrana Staerke GmbH Tel: 1-510-450-0761 Tel: 1-800-880-5768 Biosil Technologies Inc.
Gmünd, Austria info@amyris.com beautycare-na@basf.com Allendale, NJ USA
Tel: 43-2852-503-0 www.amyris.com personal-care.basf.com Tel: 1-201-825-8800
anton.amon@agrana.com bioinfo@biosiltech.com
www.agrana.com Ashland Specialty BASF SE www.biosiltech.com
Ingredients Ludwigshafen, Germany
AkzoNobel, Personal Care Wilmington, DE USA Tel: 1-800-531-0815, Centerchem Inc.
Bridgewater, NJ USA Tel: 1-800-622-4423, 49-00800-2273-4444 Norwalk, CT USA
Tel: 1-800-906-9977 1-877-546-2782 beautycare-eu@basf.com Tel: 1-203-822-9800
personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com personalcare@ashland.com www.beautycare.basf.com/ cosmetics@centerchem.com
www.akzonobel.com/personalcare www.ashland.com/personalcare www.centerchem.com
Bayer MaterialScience AG
Amyris Inc. BASF Corp. 51368 Leverkusen, Germany Clariant Int. Ltd.
Emeryville, CA USA Florham Park, NJ USA Tel: 49-214-30-50400 Muttenz, Switzerland
www.materialscience.bayer.com/

62 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

Tel: 41-61-469-5351
anu.desikan@clariant.com
www.personalcare.clariant.com
Coast Southwest Inc.
Placentia, CA USA
Tel: 1-800-621-0500,
1-714-524-2777
info@coastsouthwest.com
www.coastsouthwest.com
Cosphatec GmbH
Hamburg, Germany
Tel: 49-0-40-3501669-0
info@cosphatec.com
www.cosphatec.com
Croda Europe Ltd.
Goole, United Kingdom
Tel: 44-1405-860551
pc-europe@croda.com
www.croda.com/europe/pc
Croda Inc.
Edison, NJ USA
Tel: 1-800-526-5294,
1-732-417-0800
cara.eaton@croda.com
www.croda.com/na/pc
Custom Ingredients
Chester, SC USA
Tel: 1-803-377-1213
sales@custoblend.com
www.custoblend.com
Deveraux Specialties, LLC
Sylmar, CA USA
Tel: 1-818-837-3700
info@deverauxspecialties.com
www.deverauxspecialties.com
The Dow Chemical
Company
Midland, MI USA
Tel: 1-800-447-4369,
1-989-832-1560
dcis.dow.com
Dow Corning Corp.
Midland, MI USA
Tel: 1-989-496-6000
lifesciences@dowcorning.com
www.dowcorning.com/personalcare
Dr. Straetmans Chemische
Produkte GmbH
Hamburg, Germany
Tel: 49-0-40-669-356-0
info@dr-straetmans.de
www.dr-straetmans.de
Evonik Industries AG
Essen, Germany
Tel: 49-201-173-3170
personal-care@evonik.com
www.evonik.com/personal-care
Floratech
Chandler, AZ USA
Tel: 1-480-545-7000
sales@floratech.com
www.floratech.com
Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015 Hair
Formulator Sample Tel: 1-800-777-8307, 1-513-326-0600
Shop, LLC 1-515-559-5100 info@pilotchemical.com
Lincolnton, NC USA personalcare@kemin.com www.pilotchemical.com
Tel: 1-704-276-7099 www.kemin.com/personalcare
info@formulatorsampleshop.com Presperse, Inc.
www.formulatorsampleshop.com Lipoid Kosmetik AG Somerset, NJ USA
Steinhausen ZG, Switzerland Tel: 1-732-356-5200
Grant Industries Inc. Tel: 41-41-748-3333 drewlaba@presperse.com
Elmwood Park, NJ USA info@lipoid-kosmetik.com www.presperse.com
Tel: 1-201-791-8700 www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
info@grantinc.com Resources of Nature Inc.
www.grantinc.com Lonza Personal Care South Plainfield, NJ USA
South Plainfield, NJ USA Tel: 1-732-888-6114
Guangzhou Jaonron Tel: 1-908-561-5200 sales@roninc.com;
Trading Co., Ltd. lonzapc.arch@lonza.com customerservice@roninc.com
Guangzhou, China www.lonza.com www.resourcesofnature.com
Tel: 86-020-38776199
steven@jaonron.com.cn Lubrizol Advanced Shin-Etsu Chemical
www.jaonron.com.cn Materials, Inc. Co. Ltd.
Brecksville, OH USA Tokyo 100-0004, Japan
The HallStar Company Tel: 1-800-379-5389, Tel: 81-3-3246-5280
Chicago, IL USA 1-216-447-5000 m.takahashi@sec.shinetsu.co.jp
Tel: 1-877-427-4255, personalcare@lubrizol.com www.shinetsu.co.jp
1-312-385-4494 www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
customerservice@hallstar.com Sinerga SpA
www.hallstar.com Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Gorla Maggiore (VA), Italy
Quebec, QC Canada Tel: 39-0331-16031
Hydrior AG Tel: 1-877-886-4739, d.storni@sinerga.it
Wettingen, Switzerland 1-418-653-6888 www.sinerga.it
Tel: 41-56-426-74-74 info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
info@hydrior.ch www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com Sinerga USA
www.hydrior.com New York, NY USA
Micro Powders Inc. Tel: 1-908-217-1561
IMCD Group Tarrytown, NY USA d.gilbert@sinerga.it
Rotterdam, Netherlands Tel: 1-914-793-4058 www.sinerga.it
Tel: 31-0-10-290-86-00 mpi@micropowders.com
personalcare@imcdgroup.com www.mpipersonalcare.com Stepan Co.
www.imcdgroup.com/personal-care Northfield, IL USA
Momentive Performance Tel: 1-800-745-7837,
Induchem AG Materials Inc. 1-847-446-7500
Volketswil, Switzerland Waterford, NY USA www.stepan.com
Tel: 41-44-908-4333 Tel: 1-888-295-2392,
salesusa@induchem.com 1-614-986-2495 TCR Industries Inc.
www.induchem.com 4information@momentive.com La Palma, CA USA
www.momentive.com Tel: 1-877-827-1444,
Inolex, Inc. 1-714-521-5222
Philadelphia, PA USA Naturex Inc. salesinfo@tcrindustries.com
Tel: 1-800-521-9891, South Hackensack, NJ USA www.tcrindustries.com
1-215-271-0800 Tel: 1-201-440-5000
cheminfo@inolex.com naturex.us@naturex.com TRI-K Industries
www.inolex.com www.naturex.com Denville, NJ USA
Tel: 1-973-298-8850
International Cosmetic Naturochim S.A.S. info@tri-k.com
Science Centre A/S Gif-Sur-Yyvette, France www.tri-k.com
Lystrup, Denmark Tel: 33-0-1-64-86-52-90
Tel: 45-8622-9986 info@naturochim.com VAV Life Sciences Pvt. Ltd.
info@icsc.dk www.naturochim.com Mumbai, India
www.icsc.dk Tel: 91-22-22-83-6802
Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. arun@vav.in
The International Group Tokyo, Japan www.vav.in
Titusville, PA USA Tel: 81-3-3661-1677
Tel: 1-203-908-5774 inter@nikkol.co.jp Vevy Europe SpA
jblythe@igiwax.com www.nikkol.co.jp 16131 Genoa, Italy
www.igicares.com Tel: 39-010-52251
Phoenix Chemical Inc. info@vevy.com
Kalichem Italia S.r.l. Somerville, NJ USA www.vevy.com
Botticino Sera (BS), Italy Tel: 1-908-707-0232
Tel: 39-030-2693532 jimperante@phoenix-chem.com Zenitech
kalichem@kalichem.it www.phoenix-chem.com Toronto, CT USA
www.kalichem.it Tel: 1-800-915-0066,
Pilot Chemical Co. 1-973-767-8667
Kemin Cincinnati, OH USA lwitham@tc-usa.com
Des Moines, IA USA Tel: 1-800-707-6548, www.tc-usa.com
Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 63
 Advertiser Index | C&T

AMA Laboratories, Inc. Courage & Khazaka GmbH Pilot Chemical Co.
44 23 42
www.amalabs.com info@courage-khazaka.de info@pilotchemical.com
www.courage-khazaka.de www.pilotchemical.com
Angus Chemical Company (p. 14) (p. 54, 58, 62, 63)
7
info@angus.com
www.angus.com Croda, Inc. SCC California/Suppliers’ Day
17 37
marketing-usa@croda.com www.caliscc.org
Ashland Specialty Ingredients www.crodausa.com
C3
www.ashland.com (p. 56–59, 63) SCC Florida Chapter/
26
(p. 14, 43, 46, 57) Sunscreen Symposium
Grant Industries FloridaSCC@gmail.com
1
BASF info@grantinc.com www.scconline.org
3 www.grantinc.com
yvonne.specht@basf.com
www.carecreations.basf.com (p. 54, 56, 63) Step Exhibitions Ltd./
47
(p. 43, 56–58, 62) SCS Formulate
IFSCC gem.bektas@scs.org.uk
35
ifscc.scs@btconnect.com www.scsformulate.co.uk
Bayer MaterialScience AG
55 www.ifscc.org
cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com
www.bayermaterialscience.com Sytheon Ltd.
11
(p. 56, 62) Ikeda Corp. info@sytheonltd.com
27
info@ikeda-america.com www.sytheonltd.com
www.ikeda-corp.co.jp
Bioland Ltd.
21
bioland@biolandkorea.com Vevy Europe SpA
9
www.biolandkorea.com Innospec Ltd. info@vevy.com
5
americas-pc@innospecinc.com www.vevy.com
www.innospecinc.com (p. 57, 63)
Biosil Technologies, Inc.
53
www.biosiltech.com
(p. 59, 62) Jeen International Corp.
29
info@jeen.com
www.jeen.com
Brookfield
19
Engineering Labs, Inc.
info@brookfieldengineering.com Lubrizol
15
www.brookfieldengineering.com Advanced Materials, Inc.
www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
(p. 57, 58, 61, 63)
Centerchem, Inc.
C4
cosmetics@centerchem.com
www.centerchem.com Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
13
(p. 54, 56, 62) info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
(p. 57, 61–63)
Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit
45
ctsummit@allured.com
Summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd.
C2
www.nikkol.co.jp
(p. 56, 57, 63)

64 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 130, No. 5 | June 2015

 high-quality emollient
Robust and consistent composition

sustainable natuRally pResent

souRce in the skin

DeRiveD fRom
stable supply
plant sugaR

pRoven peRfoRmance for skin caRe

• increases cell turnover
• Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• binds moisture

exclusive north american Distributor

20 glover avenue, norwalk, ct 06850
p: 203-822-9800 | f: 203-822-9820
cosmetics@centerchem.com www.centerchem.com

Note: Purchasers of Neossance Squalane are solely responsible for ensuring compliance of products and performance claims
with applicable regulatory requirements.