MANUFACTURING CUSTOMIZED

FOOTWEAR

Written by : A.V.Suresh/…..

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 Contents
1. Custom shoes ........................................................................................................................................... 3
2. The Computer Aidided Desigining PROCESS. ...................................................................................... 3
2.1 Scanning .......................................................................................................................................... 3
2.2 Last modification. ............................................................................................................................. 4
2.3 Last milling. ...................................................................................................................................... 4
2.4 3D Shoe Designing. ......................................................................................................................... 4
2.5 2D Pattern Designing. ...................................................................................................................... 5
3. Manufacturing the Physical shoe. .......................................................................................................... 5

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1. CUSTOM SHOES
Many times, people don’t find the correct fit shoe for their Feet. Also, people with abnormalities face
problem to find the correct fit shoe for their feet. There the Custom shoe concept has raised and it is
becoming coin term now a days. As the comfort is considered as first priority in Shoe, custom shoes
concept is raising now a days.

Some times, people refer the custom shoes as Orthopaedic shoes. Even though orthopaedic shoes are
designed in same way, but mostly orthopaedic shoes are designed if a deformity in the Foot. Some
understanding of deformity of foot is more important this case.

So, can we say a custom shoe is a shoe designed for particular person? Yes, it is the shoe personalised
for a particular foot. Even before the customised shoe exists, but with the CAD technologies it became
very easy to create personalised last, then a shoe. Even though the manufacturing process is same as
normal shoe (part from quality and materials ec), preparing correct Last for a foot is more important. Here
the CAD is very beneficial.

2. THE COMPUTER AIDIDED DESIGINING PROCESS.

2.1 Scanning

The first step in customized shoe designing, it to create correct Last. This
can be done by scanning the Foot. The 3D foot anatomy is scanned/captured
with the scanner. Many scanner available depending on the requirement,
quality ets. Some scanner offers a personalised shoe scanning, where they
give Foot measurements automatically.
(Ex. EasyFoot, Elisvision, Infoot , LSF_3DOE etc)

The scanner will cost approximately 10-20 Lakhs.

A simple hand held scanner is also in use for scanning the foot. Even though you cannot
get the foot measurements automatically, the measurements can be marked easily in
modification software.

The cost of Hand held scanner depends on the make, accuracy, resolution, ability to scan texture etc…
which range from 50,000 to 20 Lakh rupees.
(Ex. Sense 3D scanner cost around 50,000, where in Artec scanner cost 12 to 15 lakh, a Go scan cost-
15-7 lakh)
Once the foot is scanned, the data is exported to point cloud data/STL/OBJ/

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2.2 Last modification.

Once the foot has been scanned, a Last is to be made which follow the foot
contours. This is done in a specialised Last modification software’s like
RomansCAD etc.
The process is as follows

• The point cloud data/ST/OBJ from scanner is imported into the

software.

• An approximate Last is selected from the Library of Lasts.

• Last is scaled in length, width and girth

• Last is modified to follow foot bottom/print/foot outlines

• Last surface is modified at regions levels to match with Foot.

The cost of software will approximately 20-25 Lakhs (depends on modules), which includes (Last
modification, 3D shoe design, 2D Patten making etc).

2.3 Last milling.

Once the last is modified, then a physical last need to be created for
manufacturing the shoe. To do this this Last milling machine is required.
The process is as follows.

• The STL last from CAD software is feed into the Milling machine
software.

• Required supports are designed in it a last will be milled.

• Remove the excess material (Toe & Heel dogs) , smooth etc

• Other processes like, creating the Last cut, adding the thimble is
added…etc

A Last milling machine like NewLast can do the last milling. The machine cost may be approximately 25
Lakhs.
It may be worth to get the Last milled from the existing Last manufactures (Ex. Sanghavi Lasts etc), in the
initial stage to reduce the costs.

2.4 3D Shoe Designing.

Once the Last is ready, the next step is to create 3D shoe design. Many
times, the custom shoes are designed with standard shoe designs. But,
now a days, the fashion is dominating comfort, people prefer good shoe
design. In this case they need to go for detailed 3D shoe designs. Else
sketching of style lines on 3D last is sufficient.

The process is as follows

• Import the STL last

• Convert to Surfaces (CAD required format).

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 • Style lines are sketched on the Last (advantage is, you can design the shoe according to
deformities on foot. Ex.. you can avoid the stiches in the region if there is problem in the foot, in
case of ortho).

• Flatten the style lines

The main advantage of 3D design is, you can transfer the whole design on to new last and adjust the style
lines if required/according to Foot.

2.5 2D Pattern Designing.

The flattened lines from 3D are imported to 2D

software, where the 2D patterns are created for
manufacturing the shoe.

The design transfer i.e from one Last to another last

can be done in 2D pattern engineering also, but in 3D
you can visualise the style lines/design on the Last.

3. MANUFACTURING THE PHYSICAL SHOE.

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