Documente Academic
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Microsoft’s
Uninspiring
Vista p72
World’s Fastest
Optical Chip p78
Problems with
Programming
Bjarne Stroustrup,
inventor of C++, on
why software is so bad.
Page 22
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02 Simonyi is
headed for
outer space
on April 9.
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Features
36 COVER STORY Anything You Can Do, I Can Do Meta
Charles Simonyi, who built Microsoft Office, says he’s “programming
probably harder than ever before.” And it’s not for the money. The billionaire
wants to start a revolution in software. By Scott Rosenberg
50 Raising Consciousness
What can the complex brain activity of seemingly unconscious patients tell
us about the nature of consciousness? By Emily Singer
4 T E CH N O L O G Y R E V I E W january/february 2007
Services not available in all areas. Subject to applicable restrictions, tariffs and service agreements. Contact Qwest for details. © 2007 Qwest. All Rights Reserved.
Peter Fairley visited China to report has founded a company called Inten- with progressive alarm chefs tor-
on efforts there to deploy coal gasifi- tional Software. “I already knew ment perfectly good, innocent food
cation technologies on a large scale about Simonyi and Intentional Soft- into whimpering submission with
(“China’s Coal Future,” p. 56). China ware and wrote a bit about them in the pathetic excuse of forward-
hopes that gasification will mitigate my book, but for various reasons I ing the culinary arts. But eating at
its growing dependence on foreign hadn’t interviewed him in depth,” Alinea was as transformative for me
oil while reducing pollution. And Rosenberg as eating at El Bulli, the culinary
pollution in China, Fairley found, is explains. “So madhouse north of Barcelona, is for
intense. “In cities like Zaozhuang— the opportunity fellow foodies. I was fascinated by
which is about halfway between to profile him what I ate, liked a lot of it, and was
Shanghai and for Technology really seduced by a few dishes. It
Beijing in Shan- Review was irre- didn’t turn me into a complete con-
dong prov- sistible. I didn’t vert—I think most American disci-
ince—where I know about his ples of the weird, novelty-as-all, El
visited an inno- planned space Bulli food go way overboard, and
vative gasifica- shot until after I’m not interested in dining at their
tion plant, the air I started researching the piece, lab benches, so to speak. But in the
pollution from though. If only his trip had been hands of someone as fiercely ambi-
the pulverized- timed for before my deadline, I tious as Grant Achatz, I’m willing to
coal-fired power could have interviewed him in orbit! put at least one foot into the future.”
plants appears to literally descend Then I think I could feel my career
in sheets,” he says. “And during was complete.” In the early 1990s, Lara Kastner photographed the
my afternoon of reporting in Shan- Rosenberg moved from being a the- preparation of hamachi at the Chi-
dong province, I found my inhala- ater and movie critic at the San cago restaurant Alinea for Corby
tions shortening. It was like my body Francisco Examiner to being a tech- Kummer’s essay
had taken it upon itself to protect me nology writer. In 1995, he left the on technology
and was trying to escape the ines- Examiner to help start Salon.com, and cuisine (see
capable.” Fairley has covered energy where he is now vice president for above). Kastner
technologies for such publications as new projects. is no stranger to
the Sunday Times of London, IEEE Alinea’s kitchen;
Spectrum, and Popular Mechanics. Corby Kummer wrote this month’s she updates
essay on chef Grant Achatz and the the restau-
Scott Rosenberg is the author of intersection of technology and high rant’s website
Dreaming in Code: Two Dozen Pro- cuisine (“The Alchemist,” p. 62). We with pictures
grammers, Three Years, 4,732 Bugs, gave Kummer, of its interior and of the dishes on
and One Quest for Transcendent who writes its menu. “The kitchen is impec-
Software, to be published by Crown about food for cably clean at all times,” she says,
in January 2007. The book tells the the Atlantic, “like I’d imagine a lab would be,
story of a group of programmers, this assignment with its stark, white, tiled walls and
led by Lotus 1-2-3 creator Mitch out of curiosity: stainless-steel countertops. There
Kapor, intent on building a personal what, we won- is rarely any chaos there. Or if there
information manager better than dered, would the is, they don’t let it show.” Kastner’s
Microsoft’s Outlook. (The book is author of Slow work has appeared in Metropo-
excerpted on pages 46 and 47.) For Food—which lis, Gourmet, Chicago magazine,
this month’s cover story (“Anything explores a culinary and social move- the New York Times Magazine, and
You Can Do, I Can Do Meta,” p. 36), ment that champions food simply other publications.
Rosenberg profiles former Micro- prepared and life simply lived—think
soft chief architect Charles Simonyi, of Alinea, Achatz’s Chicago restau-
whom Bill Gates has called “one of rant? (It’s the kind of place where
the great programmers of all time.” food isn’t so much cooked as it is
Simonyi is now on a mission to engineered.) “I was all ready to hate
reform software, and to that end, he it,” says Kummer, “having watched
The November/December 2006 issue ticipated in four such flights. Recently, The first major European client of my
introduced a new feature to the maga- when I was talking to Delft University consulting firm, Bonner and Moore,
zine: the essay. Freeman Dyson’s of Technology professor Hans Blok over was Union Rheinische Braunkohlen
remembrance of his time spent work- dinner, the subject came up. I found Kraftstoff (URBK) , in Wesseling,
ing for Britain’s Bomber Command in myself describing the feeling of seeing Germany. URBK operated a refinery
1943–1945 (“A Failure of Intelligence”) hundreds of people on the roofs and and petrochemical plant built around
prompted many letters. balconies, waving flags and waiting a German synthetic-fuel plant from
for food. Professor Blok smiled, then World War II. The layout of the origi-
War Stories floored me: he was one of them. nal plant was a T, with the power plant
I was a rear gunner flying Lancast- Roman Golicz at the bottom of the T and the high-
ers in 300 (Polish) Bomber Squadron, Clinton, CT pressure reactors at the intersection of
which flew alongside Britain’s Royal the two legs. The top leg consisted of
Air Force and operated out of Brit- The Freeman Dyson essay took me product purification units. After about
ain. Reading Freeman Dyson’s essay back 62 years. In 1944–’45, I was in three years of my association with
brings back many memories, not all of charge of a small Eighth Air Force URBK, enough trust had developed
them pleasant. I share some of Dyson’s radar unit in England, France, and between us that they showed me their
views on the ruthlessness of Sir Arthur Germany. It was part of the Micro-H production records from the war.
“Bomber” Harris, commander in system for guiding American and Eng- What became clear to me was how
chief of Britain’s Bomber Command. lish bombers to their targets in Ger- effectively the plant withstood the
My expression of the revulsion I felt many. I can still see, in my mind’s eye, many bombing attacks by British and
when ordered to bomb Chemnitz, the fleets of bombers and other air- American airplanes. These attacks
Germany, the day after Dresden was craft that flew over the channel when concentrated on the center of the plant,
burnt—and after being told that the the weather cleared in late Decem- which consisted of the high-pressure
refugees from Dresden were filling ber 1944 to support our troops in the units and their associated compres-
the streets of Chemnitz, where there Battle of the Bulge. sors. The vessel and piping walls of
was no room in shelters—nearly got While in England, I made the ac- these units were so thick that bombs
me court-martialed! quaintance of a navigator who flew in a had little effect. Only near the end of
The night flying in “streams” was Lancaster bomber. I have sent him the the war was an attack directed at the
deadly! That is when we could have Dyson essay; it has brought back mem- control room of the power plant. This
used an additional half-dozen eyes. ories of those harrowing days to him. attack by B-25s finally shut the plant
The sight of glowing exhaust mani- Henry Sandler for the remaining months.
folds bearing in on you made your Philadelphia, PA Joe F. Moore
“fighter affiliation” exercises pay off. Houston, TX
And on cloudy nights, the fear of col- Freeman Dyson’s essay really struck
lisions was such that at the end of each a chord with me. Perhaps that’s One facet of war that Dyson’s essay
“leg,” the planes in the stream would, because a part of the essay reports on underlines is the enormous reduction
before turning, switch on their naviga- the effectiveness of electronic counter- in casualties, including civilian casu-
tion lights for a moment. It looked like measures used during World War II— alties, that has been brought about by
a Christmas procession. a subject that aroused my curiosity the application of technology to the
The Operation Manna flights, long ago. battlefield. Smart bombs and missiles,
wherein Allied bombers were used to As a lieutenant in the United States unmanned drones, and satellites and
feed people in the Nazi-occupied Neth- Air Forces in England during the war, information networks enable the appli-
erlands in 1945, were a blessing. I par- I enjoyed working on extra-secret cation of both offensive and defensive
radar countermeasures, but I was power with casualties that pale beside
never able to tell whether or not my those in previous conflicts. One casu-
How to contact us efforts were producing the desired alty is a tragedy, but we can be thank-
E-mail letters@technologyreview.com results. Although Dyson studied the ful that when it’s necessary to defend
Write Technology Review, One Main Street,
Royal Air Force, I think his results also or project the nation’s interests with
7th Floor, Cambridge MA 02142
apply to the countermeasures used by armed force, it will be with far less
Fax 617-475-8043
Please include your address, telephone number, the USAF. human cost than previously.
and e-mail address. Letters may be edited for Bill Hagenbuch Mike Boylan
both clarity and length. Beavercreek, OH Houston, TX
I was surprised that the renowned sci- Nazi Germany. The facts are that the taxes, allow free-trade democracy, and
entist Freeman Dyson omitted the key victorious side in war has always used let the population build its own capi-
facts that determined why the United its power to win as quickly and conclu- talistic economy.
States, Great Britain, and Russia were sively as possible. William J. Arora
victorious over Germany and Japan William Lyons Cambridge, MA
in World War II. It was because they Irvington-on-Hudson, NY
fought to win as quickly as possible— Electronic Voting
and to reduce their own casualties by One Laptop per Child? Your piece about Princeton University
destroying the enemy’s ability to fight. No, the $100 laptop will not save the computer scientists hacking a Diebold
Dresden wasn’t making cuckoo clocks. world (“Philanthropy’s New Proto- voting machine (“How to Steal an Elec-
It manufactured war materials and was type,” November/December 2006). Mil- tion,” November/December 2006) dem-
a major transportation center. lions of $100 laptops already exist; you onstrates a problem with a particular
The idea that the bombing of Dres- probably own one yourself—the four- electronic voting machine but doesn’t
den was an excessive use of force, that year-old Dell collecting dust in your articulate the corollary: voting security
it caused too many casualties among closet that won’t sell on Craigslist for must be simple enough to be under-
German civilians too near the end of $100—and it isn’t being used to save stood by the poll watchers who safe-
the war, is nonsense. The war’s end the world. guard the vote count.
in Europe came because of such dras- Government money comes from its With paper ballots, volunteers at
tic actions, just as the end of the war citizens. If the citizens aren’t willing to polling stations follow an easy proce-
with Japan came because of the atomic spend their own money for the laptop, dure: verify that the ballot box is ini-
bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. it makes even less sense for them to tially empty, watch the voters place
In all of history, no nation has been pay taxes so the government can act as ballots in the box, and watch as the
victorious by fighting a more gentle a third-party laptop distributor. box is opened and the votes counted.
war than its enemy, as Dyson now sug- The solution for impoverished With electronic voting, poll watch-
gests should have been done against countries is to reduce government and ers must instead ensure that the
AmericanAirlines, AA.com and We know why you fly are marks of American Airlines, Inc.
voting -machine software has not a driver who made an aggressive lane to add essays to it (“From the Editor,”
been tampered with. Volunteers might change and slammed on his brakes. The November/December 2006). I’m con-
know nothing about computers but “physical evidence” led the respond- vinced that if the technology of writ-
must protect against fraud by hackers, ing police officer to conclude that the ten media had somehow developed
employees of the voting-machine man- fault was mine. The other driver had in reverse, after centuries of reading
ufacturer, and the government officials a chance to do the right thing by tell- articles on the Web, we would have
operating the polling stations. ing the truth and accepting the blame. heralded the invention of the printed
Electronic voting isn’t just an ab- Instead, he shifted the blame to me magazine as a revolutionary break-
stract computer security exercise; it through a false statement. through. Portable, high contrast ratio,
must be secure when its guardians are I paid a small fine and the deduct- resolution beyond the limits of human
nontechnical volunteers. ible on my insurance, a small price vision, and the ultimate in a tactile,
Irwin Jungreis compared to the other driver’s loss flexible interface. Technology Review
Sudbury, MA of the respect of his three passengers. would be filled with articles trumpet-
If Garfinkel is ever “at fault,” I would ing the end of the drudgery of scroll-
Be Nice! hope that he would do the right thing ing through pixelated articles shackled
I paid special attention to Simson rather than, as he claims he would, to heavy devices, and humanity’s lib-
Garfinkel’s article about using tech- deliberately lose his chip—and his self- eration by the invention of “multi-
nology—in the form of a chip that, respect as well. layer nano-imprinted organic media.”
roughly speaking, does for a car what John W. Mohr It would spawn a print bubble in the
a flight data recorder does for an air- Saint Charles, MO stock market. Too bad such a good
plane—to “spy” on his wife’s (and his thing suffers from being invented too
own) driving behavior (“Spying On My In Praise of Print long ago to be sufficiently appreciated.
Wife,” November/December 2006). I had I’m just writing to provide some But I say, Keep it.
recently been cited for “careless” driv- positive feedback on your decision to Jonathan R. Birge
ing because of an accident caused by keep the print edition and, moreover, Cambridge, MA
On Rules
Strict and simple conventions favor the useful expression of ideas.
O
n Friday, April 6, 1327, during Easter mass in way for quasi-philosophical reasons: “I find Kierkegaard’s
the Church of St. Claire in Avignon, Francesco almost fanatical concern for the individual much more
Petrarca beheld the woman he would commemo- appealing than the grandiose schemes for humanity of
rate as Laura, and irrevocably fell in love. Petrarch was 23 Hegel and Marx. ... Often, when I was tempted to outlaw
years old. If literary tradition is correct in identifying the a feature I disliked, I refrained from doing so because I did
object of his coup de foudre as Laura de Noves, she was 17. not think I had the right to force my views on others.”
Petrarch probably never met Laura; she refused to see Stroustrup’s restraint hasn’t pleased the generations
him because she was already married. But by the time he of programmers who have struggled with C++’s quirks
died in 1374, he had composed hundreds poems extolling of syntax and “features overload” (to use coder’s jar-
her beauty, bemoaning his misfortune, and mourning her gon). When a version of our interview with Stroustrup
early death at the age of 38, a respectable mother of 11. was posted on Slashdot, an aggregator website that offers
The poems are collected in a book commonly called Il “news for nerds,” it attracted 605 comments. “JCR” asked,
Canzoniere, or “The Song Book.” To praise Laura, Petrarch “Why does C++ introduce so much complexity for so little
perfected the lyric form called the sonnet, which in his benefit?” The rules of C++ are complicated but lax.
hands consists of 14 lines, usually of hendecasyllables, Programming languages affect more people than profes-
rhyming abba, abba, cdc, dcd or some other variation. sional coders. Although our technological civilization runs
This crabbed little form has been imitated by thousands of on software, the software doesn’t work very well. As our
poets and has inspired many celebrated examples of liter- cover story by Scott Rosenberg puts it, “Everywhere you
ary art. The Petrarchan sonnet has been called a cage, but look, software is over budget, behind schedule, insecure,
it is a cage that captures a peculiar economy of thought: the unreliable, and hard to use” (see “Anything You Can Do, I
octave, the first eight lines, offers a proposition of some sort Can Do Meta,” p. 36). Excessively complicated program-
that is satisfyingly resolved in the sestet, the last six lines. ming languages, of which C++ is one example, are a major
The rules of a sonnet are strict but simple. reason for software’s confusion. This is because a useful
By contrast, consider the C++ programming language. programming language should be what computer scientists
A program, like a poem, is a form for expressing ideas: call an “abstraction” of the underlying complexity of con-
in one case, words in a natural language, constrained trol flows and data structures. C++ preserves for program-
within a lyric, express a man’s love for a pretty woman; in mers the maximum possible freedom of expression; but as
the other, computer code, bound by the syntactical conven- “JLeslie” (another Slashdot commentator) admitted, “The
tions of a programming language, express the idea, say, cost was that it wasn’t much of an abstraction.”
that an extraterrestrial robot like the Mars Rover could There may be another way. Charles Simonyi, the for-
have an autonomous, embedded driving system. mer chief architect of Microsoft, who is now the chief of
C++ is arguably the most influential language of the Intentional Software, wants to overthrow programming
last 25 years; many of the systems and applications of languages for something he calls “intentional program-
the personal-computer and Internet eras were written in ming.” Rosenberg’s profile of Simonyi explains how inten-
it, including Google’s search engine and the electronic tional programming might give developers a higher order
switching systems that underlie our telecommunications of abstraction. Rather than writing software code in pro-
networks. But for all that, C++ is notoriously hard to learn gramming languages, programmers would gratefully relin-
and use. Partly, this is owing to the difficulty of master- quish the production of code to a “generator” that would
ing the language’s paradigmatic method, called “object- swallow their designs, representing the intentions of com-
oriented programming.” But mainly it is because software puter users, and spit out working code in a language that
developers are free to express their ideas in C++ in a computers could understand, compile, and run.
bewildering variety of forms. The best expression of ideas occurs in forms that are
In The Design and Evolution of C++, the language’s strict and simple. Could Charles Simonyi be offering pro-
inventor, Bjarne Stroustrup (whom we interview in this grammers a new form that is at once easier and more rig-
MAR K O STOW
special issue on software; see “The Problem with Program- orous than anything they have had before? Write and tell
ming,” p. 22), explains that he designed the language this me at jason.pontin@technologyreview.com. Jason Pontin
8 Discovering the
fountain of youth
5 Turning 21 again
1 Flying
(no, not in a plane)
*The previous list is the result of our inability to list just 10 reasons to attend
Register by January 12th, Mention Code: XTECHAD, Save an additional $100 off registration fees
Call: 888.670.8200 • Email: register@iirusa.com
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T E C H N O LO GY R E V I E W J A N UA RY/ F E B R UA RY 2 0 07
M E DICI N E
Superthin 3-D
Endoscope
I
n an endoscope meant to pene-
trate the brain, look at a fetus, or
thread through tiny ducts, smaller
is better. But the endoscopes that pro-
duce the clearest 3-D images use cam-
eras several millimeters wide—too big
to go many places in the body. Now
researchers at Massachusetts General
Hospital in Boston have demonstrated
an endoscope that’s just 350 micro-
meters wide and sends back 3-D
images that are as clear as those pro-
duced by larger endoscopes.
The key to the device is how it uses
light, says Guillermo Tearney, pro-
fessor of pathology at Harvard
Medical School and the project
leader. In the endoscope, white
light moves down a glass fiber
C O U RTE SY O F TH E W E LLMAN C E NTE R FO R P H OTO M E D I C I N E, MAS SAC H U S ETTS G E N E RAL H O S P ITAL
E N E R GY
The performance of the prototype sug- cally charged gases to cause materials The first commercial products to
gests that a larger version could lead to called phosphors to glow. use the Novalux technology will be
gasified-coal-fueled power plants with Lasers have always been theoreti- televisions that have 72 lasers each.
greater than 50 percent efficiency, much cally better, but until recently, lasers But mobile gadgets that use as few as
better than the 35 percent efficiency of small enough to fit in displays or pro- three lasers—say, cell phones that pro-
conventional plants. “I do believe GE jectors were too weak to be practical. ject photos on a barroom wall—could
has established a new state of the art,” But Novalux, a company in Sunny- be next. Mooradian has his sights on
says Wayne Surdoval, technology man- vale, CA, found that adding a crystal Hollywood: ultimately he hopes to
ager for fuel cells at the National Energy of lithium niobate to a gallium indium make movie projectors that use hun-
Technology Laboratory. —David Talbot arsenide laser would boost its light dreds of lasers. Kate Greene
N A N OT E C H
Nano Sorter
Carbon nanotubes could provide
the circuitry for the computers of
the future. But they can be either
semiconducting or metallic, and
the difficulty of getting the right
type of tube in the right place on
a computer chip has so far pre-
vented their commercial use.
Now Northwestern University
researchers have developed a way
to separate nanotubes by electri- A micrograph of
cal conductivity and by diameter, human brain tis-
sue shows buildup
another property that’s important of beta-amyloid
for applications in electronics. plaque as a circu-
lar lesion at left.
In the test tube at right, metallic
nanotubes are shown in green and duces layers containing specific
semiconducting tubes in orange. kinds of nanotubes. While the B I OT E C H
C O U RTE SY O F S HAWN D O U G LAS AN D TH E HARVAR D I G E M TEAM (BAR R E L); C O U RTE SY O F M. S. AR N O LD ET AL./ N O RTHW E STE R N (NAN O); S P L/ P H OTO R E S EAR C H E R S, I N C. (ALZ H E I M E R’S)
B I OT E C H
RNAi’s Drugs
P harmaceutical giant Merck’s purchase last fall of Sirna, a San Francisco biotech com-
pany specializing in RNA interference (RNAi), was just the latest indication that the
technology is gaining momentum. Researchers are currently trying to use RNAi to do
everything from treat flu to permanently remove hair. In RNAi therapy, small pieces of
double-stranded RNA shut down the genes whose sequences they match. Below is a sam-
pling of RNAi therapies under investigation. Katherine Bourzac
I NTE R N ET
Age-related macular
Approach
T R A N S P O R TAT I O N
Gassy Tank
M E DICI N E
Four-Cent
Inhaler
Drugmakers are increasingly
turning to inhalable versions
of vaccines and drugs in
C O U RTE SY O F B MW (TAN K); C O U RTE SY O F CAM B R I D G E C O N S U LTANTS (I N HALE R)
I NTE R N ET
Vox Populi
http://ilp-www.mit.edu
20
Hack
H A CK
including Fortran, were numeric, “macro” language, allowing users
Ancient Text which made for powerful number- of software such as Emacs to create
Lisp is a very old computer language, and is still widely used. crunching. But Lisp made use of their own mini-applications that can
By Daniel Turner symbolic expressions, which treated automate tasks. The text below, from
both data (such as numbers) and page 13 of McCarthy’s 1962 Lisp 1.5
isp—the list processor language— assistant professor at MIT, work- code as objects that could be manip- Programmer’s Manual, uses Lisp to
L is “the greatest single program- ing on new tools for artificial-intel- ulated and evaluated. This enabled define the function evalquote. For its
ming language ever designed,” ligence research, wanted a language programmers to create conditional elegance and profundity, Kay com-
according to computer scien- in which one could write programs expressions—Lisp made possible the pared this piece of code to James
tist Alan Kay. It was born in 1958 that would make logical inferences now-familiar “if-then-else” struc- Clerk Maxwell’s four equations
because John McCarthy, then an and deductions. Previous languages, ture—and today Lisp is used as a describing electricity and magnetism.
A Evalquote
At Lisp’s inception, evalquote was considered its main function.
“Evalquote is universal in the same way a Turing machine is univer-
sal,” says Guy L. Steele, a fellow at Sun Microsystems Laboratory.
“Functions in Lisp are represented as symbolic expressions. That is,
Lisp functions exist as descriptions of what to do when given data.
Evalquote, then, takes the description of the function plus the data and
then returns the result of what the described function would do with
the data.” The text here shows evalquote defined in terms of another
universal function, apply. It shows how programmers can expand
the language by defining functions in terms of other functions.
T E CH N O L O G Y R E V I E W
B Symbolic expressions
In Lisp, the algebraic expression “3+x” is represented by
the symbolic expression “(+ 3 x),” which can itself be used
in further expressions. This ability to pass expressions on
lets Lisp work with algebra as well as hard-number math-
ematics. Previous programming languages did not handle
variables nearly as well. CAR is a symbolic expression
of a slightly different sort: it is the name of a function.
january/february 2007
T E CH N O L O G Y R E V I E W
C Recursion
A recursive function is an operation that
uses itself. Recursion enables programmers
to break problems up into smaller, more
january/february 2007
easily solved problems, an approach called
“divide and conquer.” Recursive functions
were useful in a lot of AI problems, as when
a chess program tries a series of moves,
evaluates the result, and then backtracks a
couple of moves to try something different.
Now, all programming languages (even For-
tran) use recursion. In the highlighted text,
the apply function is using the apply function.
H A CK
for five decades and changed the nature Church’s Thesis.”
S O U R C E: TH E LI S P 1.5 P R O G RAM M E R’S MAN UAL, BY J O H N M C CARTHY, P. 13 (M IT P R E S S, 1962)
21
Q&A
I
n the 1980s and ’90s, when he was they can only come gradually. But by many programmers but is at the
a researcher at AT&T Bell Labs, they must come on a broad front; same time very broadly used?
the Danish-born computer sci- no single change will be sufficient. The glib answer would be, There
entist Bjarne Stroustrup designed Looking at my own narrow field are just two kinds of languages: the
C++, arguably the most influential of programming-language design, ones everybody complains about
programming language of the last 25 my view is that a good language can and the ones nobody uses. The main
years. For all that, C++ is controver- be a major asset, but only when used reason for C++’s success is simply
sial. The language is widely disliked appropriately and well. A language that it meets its limited design
by the millions of programmers who doesn’t solve problems; it merely aims: it can express a huge range
use it, largely because it is notori- helps the expression of solutions. of ideas directly and efficiently.
ously difficult to learn and use, and What makes for a good In your book The Design and Evolution
because Stroustrup’s design permits programming language? of C++, you claim that Kierkegaard
them to make serious programming Anything that helps people was an influence upon your concep-
mistakes in the interests of maxi- express their ideas makes a language tion of the language. Is that a joke?
mizing their freedom of expression. better. A language should be good at A bit pretentious, maybe, but not a
Today, Stroustrup is a professor of everyday tasks in the hands of good joke. A lot of thinking about software
computer science at Texas A&M craftsmen. It matters less whether the development is focused on the group.
University. language is beautiful in itself. There Corporate practices can be directly
are more useful systems developed hostile to individuals with exceptional
TR: Why is most software so bad? in languages deemed awful than skills and initiative. I consider such
Stroustrup: Some software is in languages praised for being management of exceptional people
actually pretty good, by any standard. beautiful—many more. both cruel and wasteful. Kierkegaard
Think of the Mars Rovers, Google, Isn’t elegance important? was a strong proponent of the
and the Human Genome Project. Elegance is essential, but how individual against the crowd. I can’t
Now, that’s quality software! Our do you measure elegance? The point to a specific feature of C++
technological civilization depends lowest number of characters to and say, “See, there’s the influence
on software, so if software had express the solution to a problem? of the 19th-century philosopher,”
been as bad as its worst reputation, I think we should look for elegance but he is one of the roots of my
most of us would be dead by now. in the applications built, rather reluctance to eliminate expert-level
On the other hand, the average than in the languages themselves. features. I’m not particularly fond of
piece of software code can make It would be a stretch to call a his religious philosophy, though.
me cry. The programmers carpenter’s complicated set of tools What do you regret the most?
clearly didn’t think deeply about (many quite dangerous) elegant. No regrets! Well, of course I
correctness, algorithms, data On the other hand, my dining- dream of what I might have done
structures, or maintainability. room table and chairs are elegant— differently and better—but who am
Most people don’t know how bad beautiful, really. That said, it would I to second-guess, say, 1984-vintage
it is because they don’t read code: of course be best if the language Bjarne? He may have been less
they just see Windows freeze or itself was a beautiful work of art. experienced than I, but he was no
have their cell phone drop a call. Is C++ too hard for most less smart, probably smarter, and he
How can we fix the mess we are in? programmers? had a better understanding of the
We can’t just stop the world It shouldn’t be. To use C++ well, world of 1984 than I have. C++ has
for a decade while we reprogram you have to understand design and been used to build many systems
everything from our coffee machines programming technique. In a sense, that enhance our lives, and it has
to our financial systems. On the other my critics are right: not everybody been a significant positive influence
B R E NT H U M P H R EYS
hand, muddling along is expensive, should write C++, but then I never on later languages and systems.
dangerous, and depressing. Significant claimed they should. C++ is designed That’s something to be proud of.
improvements are needed, and to allow you to express ideas, but if JASON PONTI N
be ignored if we fail to get our own central government rests on its ability minimally conscious state, medical
house in order. to continue delivering rapid economic knowledge is particularly lacking; in
The truth is that the United growth, so that any perceived such cases, we are just beginning to
States and China—between them threat to that growth will meet with understand the damage and the pos-
responsible for 40 percent of global resistance. It is also because the sibility of treatment (see “Raising
carbon emissions—have many good fragmented, decentralized system Consciousness,” p. 50).
www.technologyreview.com/reader
Notebooks
Preventing brain injuries is enor- so that effective treatments can be tition to be the first to find a prob-
mously important. Prevention strate- found for the approximately 230,000 lem or its solution. In principle, and
gies include such commonsense people each year who suffer head inju- often in practice, this transparency can
devices as air bags in cars, protective ries that require hospitalization. generate cleaner, more economical
helmets, and cushioned playground Barclay Morrison is an assistant professor of code with fewer bugs or vulnerabili-
materials. Detailed knowledge of TBI biomedical engineering at Columbia Univer- ties (for a discussion of the problems
biomechanics at both the whole-body sity and the principal investigator in its Neuro- with mainstream software, see “Any-
trauma and Repair Laboratory.
and single-cell levels can make preven- thing You Can Do, I Can Do Meta,” p.
tion even more successful. Equipped 36). There are, of course, no guaran-
I N F O R M AT I O N T E C H N O LO GY
with this information, computational tees, but the reliability record of open-
models can predict how likely an event The Open-Source source software is excellent.
is to cause injury and how effective a
protective device is likely to be.
Solution Collaboration can cut both ways,
however. Because new functions
Larry Constantine asks, If most
Finding treatments for those inju- may be proposed and appended by
commercial software isn’t any good,
ries that do occur will depend on almost anyone at any time, open-
why not use a more communal
better understanding the complex approach? source software can become every
cellular events triggered by a brain bit as feature-rich as its commercial
injury. In TBI, a rapid mechani- cousins, and thus equally vulnerable
cal deformation of the brain both
physically disrupts and mechanically
stimulates cells. Some cell damage is
A s you read this, countless pro-
grammers worldwide are col-
laborating to write, refine, and debug
to the creeping excess that bedev-
ils many mainstream products. As
the code slowly grows in complexity
immediate, but most of the damage open-source software. Open-source as well as capability, usability suf-
develops over days, weeks, and even pioneer Richard Stallman estimates fers, not only because new functions
months. The delayed and progres- that a million programmers now con- add to the user interface but because
sive nature of the neurodegenerative tribute to these efforts, in which the such additions are ad hoc and imple-
cascade represents a critical thera- original written form of the code—the mented case by case.
peutic opportunity: targeted inter- source—is made freely available for Open source may be superior in
vention could halt the progression of everyone to work on and worry over. producing robust, reliable code. It
cell damage and death. However, no Once a fringe phenomenon, the prac- can hold its own in providing func-
therapeutic strategies yet exist that tice has grown into a major force in tionality. But its weakness remains
target the degeneration mechanisms. software development. usability, which increasingly is the
One approach, which my research Open source is both battleground for com-
group is working on, is to develop a movement and a peting programs.
experimental TBI models that simu- method. Partisan pas- Finally, though, initia-
late the neurodegenerative sequence. sions rage, but politics tives like the GNOME
With the molecular understanding and polemics aside, free desktop software
that such models offer, promising the open strategy for Unix have been
therapeutic targets can be identi- for constructing and closing the usability
fied and treatments rationally devel- maintaining pro- gap between open-
oped with the intent of breaking the grams may offer source and commercial
progression from mechanical event some distinct advan- software. While open
to delayed cell death. Boosting the tages over the closed-door devel- source may not solve the problem
brain’s own protective mechanisms opment practices that dominate of bad software, it does offer many
is another possible tactic. Finally, commercial software. innovative possibilities. Most impor-
therapeutic strategies to encour- The most common argument for tant, it demonstrates that when more
age sprouting of new brain tissue or open-source development, and per- people scrutinize code more closely,
regeneration of damaged tissue could haps its greatest strength, is the sheer the effort can pay off in reliability.
also hold promise for those living number of people who address a The jury is still out on usability.
with long-term disability. given problem. Every line of code,
Larry Constantine teaches and heads a soft-
Our understanding of TBI is and its relationship to many others, ware R&D lab at the University of Madeira,
greater today than it has ever been. is scrutinized again and again in an Portugal. He is also a usability expert and
But TBI must continue to be studied almost obsessive-compulsive compe- software design consultant.
Photo Essay
Fluorescent tags have been On the preceding pages, a mouse her colleagues first genetically
designed for a myriad of proteins. small intestine (left) and mouse modify the protein of interest with
But many of the current tags have kidney (right) are labeled with red a special tag. Then they prepare
problems: they fade easily, or they and green quantum dots that tar- fluorescent labels with another
don’t come in enough colors to get two types of proteins, and with tag and add an enzyme that binds
study many different proteins at a dye that stains cell nuclei blue. the tags together. The result-
once. A new type of fluorescent ing linker is extremely stable and
tag, made up of nanometer-size Fluorescent labels are typically allows researchers to track the
crystals known as quantum dots, attached to proteins with bulky movement of individual proteins
could solve those problems. Sci- antibodies that may inhibit the within a cell over long periods
entists can create quantum dots in proteins’ normal behavior and of time. The image below shows
a rainbow of colors. And because can form unstable bonds. But a cells genetically engineered to
quantum dots of all colors can be new method for attaching labels, express a protein that causes
excited by the same wavelength developed by Alice Ting, assistant them to glow blue. The blue pro-
of light, scientists can use them professor of chemistry at MIT, tein has been tagged along the
to examine a multitude of protein uses smaller linkers that attach perimeter of each cell with a red
molecules simultaneously. the label more tightly. Ting and fluorescent label.
ALI C E TI N G, M IT
By Scott Rosenberg
O
n April 9, at a remote launchpad on the plains of or his planned voyage into Earth orbit this spring, moving
Kazakhstan, a ground controller will finish his beyond established ways of doing things has always been
countdown; a Soyuz rocket will fire; and Charles Simonyi’s method. Now he is plotting what he hopes will be
Simonyi—Microsoft’s former chief architect, the his most vaulting meta-move of all. Simonyi believes he can
tutelary genius behind its most famous applications, the solve a host of stubborn problems that have always plagued
inventor of the method of writing code that the company’s computers by offering everyone who uses them, and the cod-
programmers have used for 25 years, and now the propo- ers who program them, a higher-order view of software.
nent of an ambitious project to reprogram software—will Bill Gates calls Simonyi “one of the great programmers
begin his ascent into space. of all time.” Indeed, Simonyi is arguably the most successful
Snug in a Russian space suit, feeling four Gs pressing coder in the world, measured in terms of financial reward
him down into a form-fitting molded seat liner, the 58- and the number of people who use his creations. (Other cele-
year-old billionaire will become the fifth space tourist to brated programmer-billionaires, such as Larry Ellison and
visit the International Space Station. The journey, which Bill Gates himself, made their money and names founding
will cost Simonyi around $20 million, will fulfill his dream and managing technology ventures.) Simonyi could easily
of becoming a “nerd in space” (to borrow one name he choose to spend the rest of his life endowing philanthropic
chose for the website that documents his extraterrestrial ventures, flying planes, or cruising in his yacht. Instead,
adventure: www.nerdinspace.com). It will also give him an he says, he is “programming probably harder than ever
opportunity to view our planet from above and beyond. before.” He is obsessed with a project that he has pursued
This has always been Simonyi’s preferred vantage. In a for a decade and a half, and that four years ago carried him
career spanning four decades, every time he has confronted right out of Microsoft’s doors. He is proud of his profession.
some intractable problem in software or life, he has tried to But he is also haunted by the thought of what programmers
solve it by stepping outside or above it. He even has a name must contend with each time they sit down to code. He asks,
for his favorite gambit: he calls it “going meta.” In his youth Why is it so hard to create good software?
in 1960s Hungary, he learned the basics of computing on
an antiquated Soviet mainframe powered by vacuum tubes, Napoleonic Code
then engineered his own escape to the West. In the 1970s, “Our civilization runs on software,” says Bjarne Stroustrup,
at Xerox’s legendary Palo Alto Research Center (PARC), as the inventor of the C++ programming language (see “The
part of the team that invented personal computing, Simonyi Problem with Programming,” p. 22). But the software itself
wrote the first modern application: a word processor that doesn’t run very well. Everywhere you look, software is over
banished the complex codes then used to tag text and dis- budget, behind schedule, insecure, unreliable, and hard to
played a document as it would look on paper. Whether in use. Anytime an organization attempts to introduce a new
his Stanford University doctoral dissertation on a “meta- system, or upgrade an old one, it takes a colossal risk; today,
programming” approach to boosting programmer produc- large information-technology projects are technological tar
B R IAN S MALE
tivity, his career at Microsoft organizing legions of software pits that immobilize institutions. Studies regularly report
developers and teaching them how to structure their code, that two-thirds of such projects encounter major delays, sig-
of the settled order of things. Simonyi’s proposed solution code”—the 1s and 0s that a digital computer could under-
could take decades to complete, and his critics are intensely stand. The method remains largely unchanged today, even
skeptical. No one is asking him to leave behind the known if most programmers now use programming tools running
routines of programming and strike off for a new world. on ordinary PCs. But on the Ural, Simonyi learned to pro-
But such migrations have paid off for him in the past. gram at a more primitive level, laboriously punching in the
“opcodes” of machine language, specifying, instruction by
The Machine’s Language instruction, the sequences of memory fetches, additions,
Simonyi was born in Budapest in 1948. The son of a phys- memory stores, and jumps that the computer’s processor
ics professor, he fell in love at 15 with his first computer—a had to follow to execute even the most trivial operation. It
mammoth Russian Ural II in Hungary’s Central Statistical was (as Simonyi told author Steve Lohr in the 2001 book
Office. By the 1960s, the Ural, which received its instruc- Go To) “Stone Age programming.” Simonyi still remem-
tions through cash-register-style keys and had a roomful of bers the codes. “Twenty-two is JUMP,” he says today. “It’s
vacuum tubes to perform calculations, would already have burned into my ROM.”
been a relic anywhere else in the world. But Hungary’s Hungary in the 1960s, still flinching from the Soviet sup-
Communist leaders were trying to use the Soviet castoff to pression of its 1956 revolt, was not a place for an ambitious
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[ Domain experts ] CODE MAKI NG At Simonyi’s firm, clients
[ Programmers] Wri
te
and programmers model software together;
a code-generating program does the rest.
t
Lis
Write
t
sis
As
T E CH N O L O G Y R E V I E W january/february 2007
The difficulty of coördinating a team’s work inspired
software engineering’s most famous dictum, known as
Brooks’s Law: “Adding manpower to a late software proj-
ect makes it later.” Frederick P. Brooks Jr. reached this
gloomy conclusion after leading IBM’s troubled effort to
write software for its 360 mainframes in the 1960s. In his
1975 book, The Mythical Man-Month, Brooks observed that
work proceeds slower on bigger teams because of “coör-
dination costs”—the time programmers lose keeping one
another apprised of their work.
This was the backdrop for Simonyi’s 1977 dissertation,
“Meta-Programming: A Software Production Method.”
Simonyi proposed a new approach to “optimizing productiv-
ity,” in which one lead programmer, or “meta-programmer,”
designed a product and defined all its terms, then handed
off a blueprint to “technicians,” worker-bee programmers
who would do the implementation. Simonyi aimed to escape
Brooks’s Law by forbidding the technicians to talk with one
another: all communication had to pass through the meta-
programmer. For his dissertation, he tested the idea using
two groups on two projects, A and B. His despotic approach
to programming never caught on, but that hardly troubled
him. Simonyi’s chief goal in researching his dissertation
wasn’t to prove the value of his ideas but to get Bravo, the
new Wysiwyg word processor, written faster. He couldn’t
H IG H FLI E R: Simonyi in the helmet he will wear on his trip to the
persuade the PARC brass to hire additional programmers, International Space Station. He is paying about $20 million for his
so he used his dissertation as a subterfuge to bring in some ride in a Russian rocket. The launch is set for April 9.
help. Bravo itself was project B.
As the 1970s wore on, Simonyi grew impatient with represent information that can change as a program runs.
Xerox’s inability to turn PARC’s pioneering research into For example, an online store’s shopping-cart program will
successful products. One day a friend showed him VisiCalc, have variables that represent the number of items of each
the new spreadsheet program for the Apple II. It thrilled type to be purchased, each item’s price, and the shipping
Simonyi. Here was another application, like Bravo, that costs and taxes. Using those variables, a programmer can
could change people’s lives, but unlike Bravo, it ran on write a simple line of code that multiplies quantity by price,
a mass-market computer that people could afford to buy. adds shipping and taxes, and calculates the total cost—which
PARC’s work, he realized, was never going to see the light becomes the value of yet another variable.
of day. He asked his former PARC colleague Bob Metcalfe, A large program can have thousands of different vari-
who’d left the lab in 1979 to start 3Com, to recommend ables that a programming team must keep straight. Naming
prospective bosses in the fledgling PC industry. At the head them carefully becomes crucial. Today, most code features
of the list was Bill Gates. variable names designed to convey meaning to the program-
In 1981, Simonyi moved to Seattle to start the new- mers who will read it—names like NumberOfItems or Shop-
applications group at Microsoft, which until then had sold pingCartTotal. In Simonyi’s naming scheme, which he’d
programming languages and operating systems. He was 33, invented for his own use years before, every variable name
but that made him a grown-up among Microsoft’s striplings comes with a prefix that tells you useful information about
(Gates was then 26 years old, Steve Ballmer 25). it, like its type (integer, say, or decimal fraction, or string of
Through all the years that Simonyi oversaw the products letters). Some systems limit the length of variable names to
that eventually coalesced into the “program suite” known eight characters; Simonyi simply left out the vowels.
as Microsoft Office, he continued to seek new efficiencies The resulting code was dense and hard to read. Simonyi’s
in new kinds of programming abstractions. Most notably, system came to be known as Hungarian notation, both in
he schooled generations of Microsoft programmers in the homage to its creator’s birthplace and because it made pro-
B R IAN S MALE
discipline of keeping track of the myriad variable names grams “look like they were written in some inscrutable for-
used in big programs. In computer programming, variables eign language,” according to programming pioneer Andy
The Law of Leaky Abstractions computer time. Some may even understand
that the message’s alarming reference to
Excerpted from Dreaming in Code: Two Dozen Programmers, Three Years, 4,732 Bugs, a “fatal exception” means that the program
and One Quest for Transcendent Software, by Scott Rosenberg, to be published by
has encountered a bug it cannot recover
Crown Books in January 2007.
from and has crashed, or that the cryptic
hexadecimal (base 16) numbers describe
Before the blue screen, the crash of one to forget about the mess below it; in prac- created over the years do allow us to deal
Windows program almost always took down tice, the programmer still needs to under- with new orders of complexity in software
the entire machine and all its programs.) stand that mess, because eventually he is development that we didn’t have to deal
In an essay titled “The Law of Leaky going to land in it. Spolsky wrote: with ten or fifteen years ago,” and even
Abstractions,” Joel Spolsky wrote, “All though these tools “let us get a lot of work
Abstractions do not really simplify our lives
non-trivial abstractions, to some degree, as much as they were meant to. … The law done incredibly quickly,” Spolsky wrote,
are leaky. Abstractions fail. Sometimes of leaky abstractions means that whenever “suddenly one day we need to figure out a
a little, sometimes a lot. There’s leakage. somebody comes up with a wizzy new code- problem where the abstraction leaked, and
generation tool that is supposed to make us
Things go wrong.” For users this means it takes two weeks.”
all ever-so-efficient, you hear a lot of people
that sometimes your computer behaves in saying, “Learn how to do it manually first, The Law of Leaky Abstractions explains
bizarre, perplexing ways, and sometimes then use the wizzy tool to save time.” Code- why so many programmers I’ve talked to
you will want to, as Mitch Kapor said in his generation tools that pretend to abstract out roll their eyes skeptically when they hear
something, like all abstractions, leak, and the
Software Design Manifesto, throw it out the only way to deal with the leaks competently is descriptions of Intentional Programming
window. For programmers it means that to learn about how the abstractions work and or other similar ideas for transcending
new tools and ideas that bundle up some what they are abstracting. So the abstractions software’s complexity. It’s not that they
save us time working, but they don’t save us
bit of low-level computing complexity and wouldn’t welcome taking another step up
time learning. … And all this means that para-
package it in a new, easier-to-manipulate doxically, even as we have higher and higher the abstraction ladder; but they fear that no
abstraction are great, but only until they level programming tools with better and better matter how high they climb on that ladder,
break. Then all that hidden complexity abstractions, becoming a proficient program- they will always have to run up and down
mer is getting harder and harder.
leaks back into their work. In theory, the it more than they’d like—and the taller it
handy new top layer allows programmers So even though “the abstractions we’ve becomes, the longer the trip.
I
n 2003, 39-year-old Terry Wallis uttered his first word ness that typically lasts days or, at most, weeks. Those who
(“mom”) in the 19 years since a car accident had left survive do not necessarily awaken; instead, they may enter a
him with severe brain damage. He had spent much vegetative state or a minimally conscious state (MCS), which
of the previous two decades in what neurologists call can last for years. While it’s difficult to determine how many
a minimally conscious state, somewhere in the gray area minimally conscious patients there are in the United States
between coma and consciousness. In the years before his (MCS was introduced as a diagnostic category only in 2002),
awakening, however, Wallis’s family had noticed that he some estimates put the number at 25,000 or more—about 10
was growing more alert and responsive, occasionally nod- times the number of vegetative patients. (The two conditions
ding, grunting, or even crying, until one day he sponta- can be difficult even for neurologists to distinguish. Vege-
neously started to speak. Though Wallis still has serious tative patients are defined as those totally unaware of their
impairments in memory and movement, he continues to environment, while patients who are in a minimally con-
make remarkable gains. scious state may occasionally laugh or cry, reach for objects,
No one knows what spurred Wallis’s return to the wak- or even respond to simple questions.)
ing world. But neurologist Nicholas Schiff is determined to Unlike Wallis, most patients who spend years in a mini-
find out. A researcher at the Weill Cornell Medical College in mally conscious state never wake up. Prospects for recov-
New York City, Schiff is one of a handful of scientists studying ery diminish as time ticks by, so many doctors adopt a sort
people like Wallis, patients who spend months or years seem- of therapeutic nihilism toward those who are persistently
ingly unaware of the outside world and unable to communi- unconscious, assuming that their cases are hopeless, says
cate. Using new brain-imaging techniques, Schiff is hoping to Steven Laureys, a neurologist at the University of Liège in
better understand the complex nature of consciousness—and Belgium. MCS patients have few treatment options, and
find ways to help treat the thousands of patients who suffer most don’t get rigorous long-term follow-up or intensive
from severe consciousness disorders. rehabilitation. Wallis, for example, had no neurologist, and
Eight months after Wallis’s first words, Schiff and his not much medical history was collected during his 19-year
collaborators began taking snapshots of Wallis’s brain using hiatus from consciousness.
a new method that can create detailed maps of the brain’s However, recent studies from Schiff’s lab and others
nerve fibers. What they found surprised them. Over the have shown that at least some of these seemingly unaware
next year and a half, the researchers’ images seemed to patients have a startlingly high level of brain activity, men-
show that Wallis’s brain had partially healed itself. But tally reacting to stories and commands much as a healthy
KAM I L VOJ NAR / TAX I / G ETTY I MAG E S
how? And what triggered the healing process? person would. Schiff and others who study minimally
In the last few decades, improved medical technologies conscious patients are careful to distinguish them from
have kept more people alive after brain injuries, but many patients such as Terri Schiavo, who received nationwide
of them have been left in apparently permanent states of media attention in 2005. Schiavo was in a vegetative state,
impaired consciousness. Immediately after a severe brain which she entered after lack of oxygen led to widespread
injury, a patient often enters a coma—a period of unconscious- brain-cell death. When a brain injury is caused by trauma,
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A
visitor arriving in Shanghai immediately notices
China’s technological conundrum. Through the
windows of the magnetically levitated train that
covers the 30 kilometers from Pudong Interna-
tional Airport to Shanghai at up to 430 kilometers per hour,
both the progress the country is making and the price it is
paying for it are apparent. Most days, a yellow haze hangs
over Shanghai’s construction frenzy. Pollution is the leading
cause of death in China, killing more than a million people
a year. And the primary cause of pollution is also the source
of the energy propelling the ultramodern train: coal.
To keep pace with the country’s economic growth,
China’s local governments, utilities, and entrepreneurs
are building, on average, one coal-fired power plant per
week. The power plants emit a steady stream of soot, sul-
fur dioxide, and other toxic pollutants into the air; they also
spew out millions of tons of carbon dioxide. In November,
the International Energy Agency projected that China will
become the world’s largest source of carbon dioxide emis-
sions in 2009, overtaking the United States nearly a decade
earlier than previously anticipated. Coal is expected to be
responsible for three-quarters of that carbon dioxide.
And the problem will get worse. Between now and 2020,
China’s energy consumption will more than double, accord-
ing to expert estimates. Ratcheting up energy efficiency,
tapping renewable resources with hydro dams and wind
turbines, and building nuclear plants can help, but—at least
in the coming two decades—only marginally. Since China
has very little in the way of oil and gas reserves, its future
depends on coal. With 13 percent of the world’s proven
smaller, less modern mines (gases and cave-ins kill at least The production of transportation fuels from coal dates
6,000 Chinese coal miners a year). Miners on their day off to early-20th-century Germany, where chemists developed
zip by on mopeds, three or four to a vehicle, racing past two approaches to converting coal’s solid long-chain hydro-
H2
Chemicals/
fuels
H2
CO/H2 Fuel
Particulate cell
removal
Combustion turbines
Electric power
Sulfuric acid/
sulfur recovery
Solid by-products Heat exchange
CO2
Steam turbine
Electric power
CO2 disposal
Generator
to implement new technologies at a startling pace provide cation is one of a very few technologies that can reconcile
I LLU STRATI ON: J E FF WEST; SOU RCE: U.S. DE PARTM E NT OF E N E RGY
ample room for optimism. When you’re racing into Shang- those conflicting scenarios at reasonable cost.”
hai at one-third the speed of sound on a train supported Still, the timing of such a technology transition is very
by an electromagnetic force field, it’s hard to believe that a much in question. Will China really wait until 2020 to start
country capable of such an engineering feat will continue the process of cleaning up its coal-fired power plants? The
to ignore the deadly pollution engulfing its cities. answer will depend, ultimately, on when China begins to
To some analysts, the switch to clean-coal technology feel that using coal gasification to generate electricity is as
seems almost inevitable. “China has to rely on coal for urgent as using it to produce transportation fuels—when the
future electricity and fuel needs, and it will eventually have costs of air pollution become as worrisome as the costs of
to cap its CO2 emissions,” says Guodong Sun, a technology relying on foreign oil.
policy expert at New York’s Stony Brook University who has Peter Fairley, a Technology Review contributing writer, traveled to
advised the Chinese government on energy policy. “Gasifi- China in October.
The Alchemist
A chef in Chicago wants to blow your mind.
By Corby Kummer
When Grant Achatz’s French Laundry pals come to visit him in the serene,
light-filled kitchen of his Chicago restaurant, Alinea, the scene strikes them
as familiar. Why shouldn’t it? They all used to work together. For the dozen
years since it opened, the French Laundry, in California’s Napa Valley, has
come in first in most surveys of the country’s best restaurants. As an ambitious
young chef from a family of unambitious cooks in Michigan, Achatz talked Thomas
Keller, the chef-owner of the French Laundry, into giving him a job practically sight
unseen, and he ended up as sous-chef—second in command—for two of his four years
there. He wanted to be as close as he could to the best. And now, at all of 32, Achatz has
just seen Gourmet magazine name Alinea the best restaurant in America.
That verdict marks the passing of the torch from with intensely focused butter sauces, often flavored
the most modern, Americanized version of French with powerful, cooked-down essences. It’s not that he
haute cuisine to something altogether new. The high- was deaf to the noise coming from Spain: every ambi-
est and most expensive forms of cooking have always tious chef stays tuned to food news, and Keller certainly
involved the latest kitchen technology. But seldom has ate in Spain. But he had evolved his own style, and it
technology worked to bring food as far from what was had brought him his own international recognition.
considered normal as it does today. Cooks are stray- Nouvelle cuisine still relied heavily on the battery of
ing into the preserves of the laboratory, appropriating equipment handed down from the chefs of the great
equipment, processes, and ingredients that were for- flowering of haute cuisine, at the turn of the 20th cen-
merly of interest only to biology researchers and indus- tury, and that’s what Keller liked. Achatz would con-
trial food manufacturers. Among American chefs, it’s vince him to buy the latest gadgets, only to see them
Achatz who has most successfully walked the balance sit in a cabinet unused.
beam between weird and appealing—probably because So Achatz took a walk on the wild side as the chef
of his rigorous apprenticeship with Keller. of Trio, a restaurant in Evanston, IL, that became both
While Achatz was rising at the French Laundry, his famous and notorious for its novel techniques. After
head was turned by the newest techniques being prac- just three years, high-rolling young backers excited
ticed in Spain. Keller had arranged for his young cook by his innovation staked him to Alinea, in the Lincoln
a four-day visit to the kitchen at El Bulli, considered Park neighborhood, home to comfortable members of
the international ground zero of culinary innovation, Chicago’s intelligentsia. He installed a high-ceilinged
but he and its chef, Ferran Adrià, had very different kitchen with windows, rare in a city restaurant. The
philosophies. Keller had received classic French train- windows may not look out onto an always sunny Cali-
ing and applied to it his own Germanic, meticulous fornia garden, like the ones at the French Laundry,
discipline. His worldview was formed by the nouvelle but they’re nice all the same.
MAR C B U R K HAR DT
cuisine revolution of the 1970s and ’80s, which opened His old friends feel right at home—at first. The ter-
French cooking to Asian, Indian, and other interna- rible quiet, broken only when cooks loudly repeat orders
tional influences and replaced flour-thickened sauces like marine cadets as the woman who receives the slips
from the dining room calls them out; the intense con- the names of my ingredients to have one or two syl-
centration; the straight-backed, close-cropped young lables, and those names should sound like something
men huddled around salad plates as if consulting on from an old map, not from a can of Cheez Whiz.
complicated surgery: all this they know, and when in Even to someone far less retrograde than I, the
whites they look and act exactly the same way. But the new high-tech food seems freakish. There are plants,
cool, the literal cool, of the room—it’s strange. Four long, herbs, and body parts you’ve never heard of and in
mercilessly scrubbed stainless-steel tables are centers through-the-looking-glass shapes; you get sugar with
of constant activity, with the cooks solemnly shuttling the meat, and salt where you don’t expect it; and the
between them and pieces of high-tech equipment on foams—the notorious foams—come in lurid colors
counters along the walls. What’s missing is the cen- that seem not meant for human consumption. Dishes
terpiece of the French Laundry kitchen—the piece of sound like stunts of publicity-hungry young bloods.
equipment all its activity revolves around. Here’s the surprise: get close enough to sit down
After a minute, a visiting cook will ask Achatz, and allow yourself to be teased, challenged, and
“Where are the stoves?” coddled by Achatz’s version of this kind of cooking,
and you can have one of the most enjoyable culinary
A
chatz is something new on the national culi- adventures of your life. Such was my experience when
nary landscape: a chef as ambitious and dis- I dined for nearly four hours at Alinea.
ciplined as Thomas Keller who wants to
Y
make his mark not with perfection but with ou know you’re in for something different
constant innovation. Where Keller marries ironclad when you go through the door of Alinea. It
French technique with American ingredients, Achatz leads to a short hallway that looks long because
plays with every new way to change the viscosity, tex- of trompe l’oeil panels that get shorter and nar-
ture, form, moistness, and even color of food, apply- rower, constricting the corridor so that by the time you
ing food-industry methods to haute cuisine. reach its end, you can’t get a good look at the weirdly
He is not the first cook to aim for Ferran Adrià’s pulsating wire sculpture you find there without hunch-
nonstop creativity and willingness to try any piece of ing. Just before the hunch point, gunmetal-gray double
equipment, industrial thickening agent, or wild idea doors snap open at your side and you enter the gray-and-
that might bring about a new sensory nirvana. In white dining room—a place of quiet tension and care-
France, Marc Veyrat broke ranks with his Michelin- ful repose. The nicely enthusiastic hostess or host (this
starred colleagues to use many of these techniques at may be the cutting edge, but it’s still the Midwest) seats
his Maison de Marc Veyrat, near Annecy. In England, you at a dark-wood table. The dark wood is part of the
Heston Blumenthal made his name, and won three strategy; it’s meant to signal the food’s primacy over any
Michelin stars, doing the same thing at the Fat Duck, other sensory element. In the multimillion-dollar design
in the village of Bray, outside London. In Washing- process that led to the opening of Alinea, in the spring
ton, DC, José Andrés, a Spanish-born chef who lit- of 2005, the surroundings were kept spare, so that din-
erally came of age in Adrià’s kitchen, runs the purest ers could be at one with their senses.
offshoot of El Bulli at his Minibar. In New York, Wylie Fragrance is nearly all in both food and wine, of
Dufresne, at his wd~50, was the first young Ameri- course, and playing with it, and with textures and tem-
can chef to spread the Spanish gospel. But the critical peratures, is an Achatz hallmark. The chef looked for
mass of cooks is in Chicago, which has become the ways to bring the sensuality of smells directly into the
American Barcelona. dining room. He didn’t want to settle for some normal
I shouldn’t like any of this. I wrote a book on Slow serving dish like, say, the tightly covered cast-iron cas-
Food, the international movement dedicated to saving seroles that waiters at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s
farm-raised food and preserving the environment. As New York City restaurant Jean Georges open under
the Atlantic Monthly’s food writer, I spend most of diners’ noses. Instead, he bought a bonglike contrap-
my professional time talking to cooks who visit farm- tion that lets him force scented air into a plastic bag.
ers, and to farmers who struggle to make a living by He gently heats lavender or orange peel or sassafras,
raising good food in old, environmentally respectful, captures the aromatized air in the bag, pricks tiny
deeply uneconomical ways. My own preference is for holes in it, and tucks the bag into a specially made
the simplest food imaginable—the kind intended to linen pillowcase. The waiter sets the pillow under the
pay tribute to the best and most highly flavored ingre- diner’s plate; it slowly deflates as the plate rests on it,
dients. I regard food innovation with suspicion; I like scenting the entire place setting.
Odd holders for silverware and crockery, bear- fashioned glasses over the leaf container, to fill them
ing odd ingredients, arrive at odd moments. One with smoke. These would serve as cloches for wait-
night there could be slices of a gnarly “hand” of fresh ing plates of rabbit loin covered with brioche crumbs
ginger impaled on spiny stainless-steel needles that browned with butter and thyme and set over roasted-
look vaguely like a bed of nails; at an unpredictable garlic butter, accompanied by cider gel thickened with
point a waiter will use a specially designed grater a kind of modified starch used in industrial food pro-
for the ginger, sprinkling the juicy pulp over a soup. cessing. Once the glasses were turned right side up, at
Or a chunk of dripping honeycomb will arrive, to be the table, the waiter would fill them with rabbit con-
squeezed eventually over a savory course, again using sommé. These kitchen and tabletop theatrics gave din-
a custom-designed implement. Or you’ll be served ers not just the taste of fall but its smoky smell, too.
a square of jelled sweet potato and another of jelled Semiridiculous as these tricks sound, they exploit
bourbon, both stuck onto a cinnamon-stick skewer the evocative power of scent, memories of which
that was lightly torched before it left the kitchen, so lodge in a primitive storage area in the brain. Scent
that it arrives powerfully fragrant. works: that lamb is the dish I still think about months
On the night I dined, as soon as I was seated, a after I had it. But the meal did not lack for other high
waiter set down a bristling frond of fresh rosemary points, in which artful visual and olfactory shocks
stuck into a polished stainless-steel holder that looked were essential.
something like a smart pen stand. It was the only Achatz has the eye of a designer. The wire holders
thing by way of a floral arrangement, and it stood sen- are the product of a collaboration with Martin Kastner,
tinel for better than half the 12 courses I tried (this a native of the Czech Republic, who crafts metalware
was a beginner’s meal: the Alinea menu is divided and ceramics. One of the pair’s most arresting inven-
into a tasting of 12 courses and one of 24). Then a tions is the “trapeze,” which actually looks more like a
very hot rock arrived—a long terra-cotta brick set on
a perilously fragile-looking wire holder. In one end
was a deep hole the width of a pencil. The waiter
Then a very hot rock arrived—
stuck the small branch of rosemary into the hole, and a long terra-cotta brick set on a
the fragrance engulfed not just me but all the tables perilously fragile-looking wire
around me. In fact, there was barely any rosemary
in the three small squares of tender lamb set on the
holder. In one end was a deep
hot brick, each topped with a different condiment: hole the width of a pencil. The
mastic-infused cream (mastic, a Greek resin with a
light, bittersweet licorice flavor, is used to thicken
waiter stuck the small branch of
ice creams and sweets); mustard-apricot relish with rosemary into the hole, and the
plump, lush dried apricots; and a late-summer mar- fragrance engulfed not just me
malade of eggplant and tomato. The meat was ten-
der and succulent, the condiments cannily chosen to but all the tables around me.
set it off without dominating. But it was the rosemary
scent mixing with sizzling lamb fat—an almost prime- high wire. It holds swinging slices from a side of bacon
val emotional trigger, the kind Achatz says he wants that has been frozen so it can be cut paper thin. The
to pull—that made this the climax of the meal. slices are dehydrated slowly, so they can be pressed flat
I spent several dinner services backstage, observ- and unusually wide; spirals of piped butterscotch and
ing the kitchen activity behind the sort of dinner I ate. linguine-thin ribbons of dehydrated apple puree wind
The only fire I saw there—no flaming grills, scant stove round their lower halves. The stop-everything presen-
activity—was literal: small blazes in a short cylindri- tation, the unusual texture of the bacon (not quite crisp,
cal stainless-steel container lined with aluminum foil not quite soft), the way the sweet complements the
and stuffed with fallen oak leaves so beautiful it was salty—all are characteristic of Achatz’s cooking.
a shame to burn them. When an order for rabbit (a When you get a plate, it too is designed to subtly
dish I didn’t try) came in, one cook set the leaves afire disorient. Dinner-sized, elliptical plates at my meal
with a blowtorch, making the kitchen smell like a sub- had an incised white-on-white houndstooth design
urban lawn in the fall. A second cook smothered the and an almond-shaped smooth center; Achatz pat-
fire with the bottom of another steel container covered terns them with food like Matisse creating a cutout
with foil. A third cook quickly put upside-down old- or Alexander Girard a textile. Lightly seared hamachi
topped with crushed peanuts sits in what looks like originality and extravagance of the lord who employed
a Japanese garden of braised green peanuts, which the cook. After the French Revolution, when former
are delightfully crunchy and slippery, like edamame cooks to the aristocracy began opening restaurants,
beans with flavor. Beads of salty buttermilk pudding they competed to make just as vivid an impression
dot the plate, a bit bigger than the peanuts and a simi- with their own skills, which often had as much to do
lar cream color, defying gravity to hold their shape. with novel presentations, equipment, and techniques
Some sprout delicate sprigs of fresh tarragon; others as with finding the very best ingredients from farm-
are topped with three tiny deep-purple blackberries. ers, fishermen, cheese makers, and other producers.
Polka dots of perfectly behaved berry syrup anchor Skill, discipline, and basic understanding of cooking
the design. The plate is more than pretty. Just as the science became necessary for any chef, and to this day
bacon is better than weird—it tastes good—the hama- apprentice chefs train in the rigorous techniques of
chi is silken, and the pudding, which sounds awful classic French cuisine.
when the waiter describes it, is somehow at one with Carême also applied to the craft of cooking the
the fish; the beads have the texture of thick butter- Enlightenment idea that a craftsman could become
scotch pudding and yield to the tongue. (To see how an artist by transforming what nature had made into
the dish is made, see pages 70 and 71.) something original and new. More than 170 years
Many things yield unexpectedly in the mouth. after Carême’s death, this ethos finds its most fer-
That’s part of Achatz’s experimentation with differ- vent adherents in Adrià and his followers. The most
ent thickeners, and with making things solid or liquid thoughtful of them, like Adrià himself—whom I first
depending on what you’re not used to. A wide red rib- took seriously when I encountered him at a number
bon marches across a long rectangular dessert plate, of Slow Food events in Italy—find the best artisan pro-
for instance, looking like melted plastic. The strangely ducers and try to intensify and transform the foods
plastic ribbon is the usually runny raspberry puree, they grow and make.
blanketing a series of small dots, all of which have a To get a sharper sense of how Achatz and his
surprise: tapioca pearls in goat’s milk; fresh raspber- innovation-bent colleagues depart from the updated
ries stuffed with a chewy little bead of taffy made of classicism of multistarred chefs like Keller and Alain
fresh red peppers; pistachio brittle and crushed pis- Ducasse, who has restaurants in three countries, I
tachios; and lavender made into a tea that holds its asked Achatz to imagine how several chefs today would
shape like a syrup. Lavender is also dehydrated into approach an haute cuisine warhorse: sole Veronique,
tiny chips and crumbled over the length of the ribbon. folded fillets poached in a vermouth-flavored fish stock
The whole thing is decorative (its horizontal pattern- and served with a cream-thickened sauce of fish and
ing is reminiscent of a Louis Sullivan or Prairie School white wine, garnished with white grapes and puff-
design), unexpected, and very good. pastry crescents. Achatz knew the Keller version by
heart, because he was there when Keller reconceived
H
ow far has this school come from anything the dish. To sole fillets wrapped around a stuffing made
recognizably rooted in classic haute cuisine? from brioche crumbs, Keller added a cream sauce with
Will these restless young chefs obliterate white wine, raisins plumped in white wine, and a gar-
everything Slow Food holds dear? nish of two peeled seedless white grapes.
The experiments of the Chicago school can be Achatz said that Wylie Dufresne—perhaps the most
traced directly to Marie-Antoine Carême (1784– technical-minded of the young American chefs follow-
1833), a founder of haute cuisine, who used prin- ing Adrià—would probably make a paste of sole mixed
ciples of architectural engineering to create pièces with transglutamase, to be extruded into spaghetti-like
montées—fantastic structures, often in the shape of noodles, and serve it in a classic sauce garnished with
buildings—from modeling ingredients like gum trag- grapes: “His manipulation would be the dish.” Homaro
acanth. Three generations before Auguste Escoffier Cantu, of the Chicago restaurant Moto—perhaps the
codified post-Revolutionary French cuisine, Carême most direct disciple of Carême in the current group—
startled diners with beautifully colored and modeled would first give the diner a picture of sole Veronique on
desserts that mysteriously held their form and con- a piece of paper that was meant to be eaten (as are a lot
cealed surprises—surprise being a longtime feature of his menus; he uses an ink-jet printer to spray edible
of cuisine for the jaded rich and royal. From its ori- inks of his own devising onto paper made of soybeans
gins in court kitchens of the Renaissance, haute cui- and cornstarch). Then he would set before the diner
sine always used artifice to impress diners with the a patented superinsulating polymer box preheated to
“WH E R E AR E TH E STOVE S?” The kitchen at Alinea, dinnertime. Chef vura and originality of the chef. This is where the new
Grant Achatz is at center, in whites. approach diverges from Slow Food, where the author
is Nature. Achatz’s own divergence from the Ameri-
350 ºF. A waiter would remove the lid to reveal a top can nouvelle cuisine of his mentor marks an interest-
layer of carbonated grape, made by putting whole fruits ing irony: his aggressive use of technology is often in
into a carbonation canister; the waiter would take away the service, as is Keller’s use of classical technique, of
that layer and reveal steamed sole that had been cook- great emotion—the odd techniques and sheer novelty
ing at the table. For the last course, the waiter would are only its most obvious manifestations. The cool
pour the fish-steaming broth into a bowl. Playing with bloodlessness of his kitchen—and, it must be said, of
the image and deconstructing the dish would be the the chef himself: tall, lean, and pensive, with red hair,
Cantu hallmarks. finely etched features, and freckles that underscore
Achatz himself would concentrate on scent and his youth—produces food meant to celebrate and open
texture, poaching the fish in a tepid water bath in a up the realm of the senses.
vacuum-sealed plastic bag—the “sous vide” process Executive chefs usually take a hand in actual prepa-
many chefs now swear by to give meat, fish, and some rations only when they see a cook put something awry.
vegetables a creamy consistency. He would put grape That approach would be understandable in a restau-
juice into the bag with the fish, to infuse the essence rant with 16 cooks and dinners that regularly feature
of its flavor into the flesh. Then he would capture two dozen courses. But on the nights when I visited
the aromas of classic fish sauce—vermouth, tarragon, the Alinea kitchen, Achatz took an active role, pre-
fish stock—either in an aromatic pillow or in a vapor paring each plate of “shellfish sponge”—a dish with
sprayed around the diner when the fish was served. what looked like a soft white meringue cloud in the
He might use an industrial thickener to make a kind center, garnished with thin, horizontally sliced mus-
of fruit gum of cooked-down white-grape juice, to alter sels and clams. Watching Achatz choose each delicate
the texture and intensify the flavor of the grapes. Three shellfish slice and spoon out celery granité and two
approaches meant to make the diner think about flavor kinds of sauce was like watching a surgeon—an effect
LARA KASTN E R
and the whole experience of dining in a new way. heightened by his somber mien, the immaculate white
And, however first-rate the ingredients, three cutting boards, and the C-fold white paper towels set
approaches designed to draw attention to the bra- before the plates like surgical napkins.
When I ate the sponge at table, I had no idea what Soon after, he read about a pea ravioli encapsulation
to expect. Atop the cloud was the granité, and around in a magazine story about Adrià. It reminded him of his
it were Creamsicle-orange gooseberry sauce and own “truffle explosion”—a truffle broth thickened with
horseradish cream the consistency of crème fraîche. old-fashioned gelatin and chilled solid enough to serve as
I was startled by the brisk, cleansing seafood flavor a filling for ravioli. When simmered, the filling melted;
and the soft, foamy texture of the sponge against the it spurted into diners’ mouths. The push to evolve the
fine tingle of the granité and the luxuriant, delicately idea behind the dish (the alginate-calcium combination
hot cream. The dish was a triumph of finesse. would be used for all manner of tricks, such as an alarm-
Achatz told me that this dish neatly and specifi- ing rush of hot beet juice from an innocent-seeming icy
cally illustrated the difference between him and Keller. white lemon-thyme foam) was typical Achatz: the dis-
Steaming the shellfish in a broth based on vermouth covery and research, the time spent browsing technical
and aromatic vegetables including fennel, he said, was websites and speaking with representatives of additive
“straight out of the French Laundry playbook,” as are makers unused to customers who want to order in one-
eight out of ten of the ways he “extracts flavor.” But pound, not fifty-pound, quantities.
rather than use the broth for a billi-bi, a creamy French Truffle explosion was a Trio signature, though in
mussel soup, or a tomato-based, saffron-seasoned Pro- his restless way Achatz soon left it behind. My visit to
vençal stew, he strains the broth and adds Ultra-Tex 3 Alinea fell near the anniversary of its opening, a week
(a modified tapioca starch that thickens without being in which Achatz brought back some of his greatest hits;
heated), whips it into a mousse that looks exactly like I asked him to make the ravioli. The effect was inter-
mounted egg whites, and then chills it to set like a esting enough, but the salty broth and the pasta casing
were lukewarm, with cold, hard grated Parmigiano-
Reggiano on top. The temperatures didn’t seem inten-
Achatz dates his great leap tional, showing that the execution must be flawless for
forward to 2003, when he was many of Achatz’s effects to come off.
Achatz likes “thermal reversal,” as he calls the
cooking at Trio. He decided to exploding-ravioli effect. He uses it for the raspberry
check out the convention of the ribbon, freezing a sheet of boiled-down, thickened
Institute of Food Technology, a raspberry puree and syrup raked to a perfect 16th of
an inch; cooks cut the sheet into ruler-straight ribbons
group that serves companies to lay across the flavored dots placed along rectan-
like Kraft (the food industry has gular plates, and then partially melt the ribbon with
a blowtorch, just before it is served, to create the
always loomed large in Chicago). molten-plastic effect. Broken slabs of dark Venezuelan
Ocamari chocolate wait beneath a lamp all evening,
Bavarian cream. The flavoring accompaniments (with heated to 94 ºF, until they are transferred to a des-
the exception of the fairly extraneous gooseberry) are sert plate with dehydrated chocolate pudding, cassia
relatively standard, but the textures are not. mousse, and figs braised with port; the shards just
Achatz dates his great leap forward to 2003, when hold their shape but melt in the mouth like s’mores.
he was cooking at Trio. He decided to check out the These dishes require low-tech methods to achieve
convention of the Institute of Food Technology, a group the desired results, and Achatz can even find use for
that serves companies like Kraft (the food industry has low-tech thickeners like plain gelatin and the lab staple
always loomed large in Chicago: Kraft, Sara Lee, and agar (for those pert beads of buttermilk pudding). But
McDonald’s are all nearby). He and a fellow Trio cook my own favorite use of a gelling agent was the mixture
watched, rapt, as someone poured a liquid over a steel of caramel and sodium maltodextrine, which absorbs
tray, sprayed some kind of mist on it, and then encapsu- fat rather than water, the way cornstarch and most
lated spoonfuls of it like so many freestanding egg yolks. other thickeners do. The caramel flakes look some-
(At Minibar, in Washington, José Andrés encapsulates thing like white-chocolate nut clusters and re-form
the dressing for a deconstructed Caesar salad; the result as chewy dime-store vanilla caramel in the mouth.
looks like an egg yolk but spurts dressing when pierced.) It’s a gee-whiz moment that’s plain fun.
The liquid, they learned, had contained sodium algi- Fun is something Achatz wants diners to have,
nate, and the mist was of calcium chloride. Achatz took along with the occasional scare (those acupuncture-
away a one-pound sample of the sodium alginate. reminiscent needles). But some of his ideas don’t go
over. He once bought black atomizers and filled them But technology remains Achatz’s signature interest.
with essence of shrimp cocktail, made by pushing Besides visiting trade shows and continually surfing
shrimp shells, stock, tomatoes, horseradish, and vine- the Web, he has formed collaborations with machine
gar through a countertop wine press. Waiters sprayed designers, as he did with Kastner—and, as with Kastner,
the atomized essence into diners’ mouths. The effect the collaborations have resulted in products that go on
was uncanny, but it provoked an outcry. Critics said sale. One example is a bread-box-size machine with
Achatz wanted to divorce diners from actual food. a flat square surface that flash freezes anything on it.
Among other things, he says, he was accused of want- Other chefs use liquid nitrogen for flash freezing, but
ing to change the molecular structure of food and that struck Achatz as “too science-y, too sterile.” He pro-
feed the world with essences. Achatz, not an espe- posed to PolyScience, a nearby equipment maker that
cially whimsical fellow himself, wanted to tell critics produces the “immersion circulators” he uses to cook
to lighten up: none of the accusations were true. But vacuum-packed food, that they make him a surface for
he nevertheless threw out the atomizers. flash freezing. He calls it the antigriddle.
Many gadgets have wound up in the crawl space
A
behind the kitchen. Even the vacuum-packing machine chatz and his Chicago contemporaries have
that is now a staple of ambitious restaurants across the not just placed themselves at the front ranks
land is kept in a low, closed cabinet, though on any of the avant garde; they are the future of
night a few meats will have been cooked in vacuum- American cooking, in a self-conscious but
packed bags, which give meat and fish a satiny texture valid way. Just as he has built on what he learned, pro-
and focused flavor. The infamous soda siphon also claiming his roots in Keller’s teachings, Achatz knows
comes out seldom. Achatz thinks foams have gotten a that the 22-year-olds in his kitchen will one day have
bad rap, defending them as a “legitimate saucing tech- kitchens of their own and come up with the next cui-
nique” that allows chefs to aerate ingredients without sine. Many of them came to him through his frequent
having to dilute the flavor of, say, chocolate with the postings on eGullet.com, a website for chefs and food-
beaten egg whites and whipped cream that go into ies, where during the run-up to the opening of Alinea
a mousse: “Come on, it has its uses.” But foams are he kept a blog. His kitchen is already a self-selecting
usually just supporting players, not the stars, in his school, and his students will go on to grow without
kitchen. He’ll make a tomato-water foam, for instance, and perhaps beyond him.
but hide it. Curtis Duffy, his longtime chef de cuisine, On my last visit to the kitchen, I met a wide-
will form to order small balls of fresh mozzarella, eyed and extremely ambitious cook, all of 19 years
kneading a wad of curd he keeps warm and pliable all old, named Chad Kubanoff, who had read some of
night over a freestanding electric burner with an LED Achatz’s eGullet postings and started pelting him with
temperature readout. Just before he seals the ball, he e-mailed requests for a job. He had snagged an entry-
sprays in some of the tomato foam, as a filling. The level job at Daniel, a temple of nouvelle-classic cuisine
cold foam unexpectedly comes out of the mozzarella, in New York, when Daniel Boulud himself, a chef as
like thermal-reversed chicken Kiev. revered as Keller and as gold-plated a meal ticket for
Atomizers aren’t the only Alinea gadgets to have aspiring chefs, came to teach a class at the Culinary
gone away altogether. A lab-scale centrifuge went on Institute of America and was impressed by the begin-
eBay after Achatz and his chefs had too much trouble ning student who assisted him. But the very young
realizing his dream of a “self-encapsulating” liquid that man ditched it to move to Chicago for the chance just
would freeze as a hollow sphere, into which he would to “stage” (the French term for apprenticing) in the
inject liquid—a sort of popsicle with a juicy center. A Alinea kitchen. Why did he take the risk? To try out
stick homogenizer, usually found in cosmetics facto- new gadgets like the antigriddle, where he was freez-
ries, well and truly emulsified vinaigrette—but not so ing little chestnut lozenges the night I spoke with him.
memorably that Achatz was convinced to replace the “I wanted to do something new, stuff that hasn’t been
professional-strength juicer he and other chefs rely on done before,” he told me. Had he seen anything like
to make purees. A paint sprayer he intended to use to what surrounded us in the Alinea kitchen when he
“shellac” liquid chocolate with curry-infused cocoa was studying at the Culinary Institute of America, the
butter was a hassle, and noisy. He liked carbonating country’s preëminent training institution for chefs?
grapes, putting the fruit right into a carbonation canis- He laughed scornfully. “Nothing.”
ter; but his rival Homaro Cantu was already carbonat- Corby Kummer is a senior editor at the Atlantic Monthly, for
ing fruits, and he didn’t want to look like a copycat. which he writes a regular column on food.
1 2
In an old-fashioned bar blender, fresh blackberries imported from After the blackberry sauce is pressed through a traditional conical,
Chile are blended for a vinaigrette of red-wine vinegar, grapeseed fine-mesh sieve called a chinois, it is blended with Ultra-Tex 3, a
oil, salt, sugar, and a liqueur made from cassis—dramatically big thickener generally used in the food industry, and one Achatz likes
and deep-flavored blackberries popular in France. because it requires no heating.
3 4
The cassis vinaigrette will be one of two sauces used to both Agar agar, the seaweed-based gelling agent found in every biology
decorate the serving plate and complement the flavor of the lightly lab, is used to thicken a buttermilk pudding. Agar thickens to a very
cooked hamachi fillets. (Squeeze bottles and plastic deli contain- firm consistency; the amount of Ultra-Tex needed to produce the
ers are standard restaurant-kitchen equipment.) same thickness would make the texture of the pudding gummy.
5 6
The pudding does not have eggs, as standard puddings do; the One reason Alinea is very expensive: the immense amount of labor
LARA KASTN E R
agar does the thickening. Achatz simmers heavy cream with pre- required to achieve nearly every dish. Here, familiar blackberries
weighed agar and, using an immersion blender, slowly adds cool are meticulously pulled apart, bead by bead, to make miniature
buttermilk, which can separate over direct heat. berries that will carpet the plate.
7 8
One of America’s great regional treats, known to every Southerner, Achatz buys whole hamachi from a premium sushi-fish vendor in San
is boiled peanuts—slippery and crunchy like Japanese edamame Mateo, CA, and cuts them at Alinea, separating the top loins from the
beans and fun to eat. Here they have been shelled and skinned bellies; for the hamachi dish described here, he uses the top loin.
and set to simmer until tender but crunchy.
9 10
A popular current restaurant trick is to give fish fillets a crisp “skin” Instead, he blends ground toasted peanuts, peanut oil, and butter
made from something else (Spaniards are using new comestible into a paste or “panade,” cut to form a crunchy cover. Using one of
glues to fuse chicken skin to fish). Achatz hasn’t gone quite that the kitchen’s few old-fashioned sources of direct heat, he browns
far yet, but he likes the idea. the panade under a “salamander,” or broiler.
11
12
F
or most of the last two decades, I tions I worked with. I turned it on only beautiful. The Aero visual interface
have been a Microsoft apologist. when I had to, sticking to my Windows provides some cool effects, such as
I mean, not merely a contented computer for everyday tasks. translucent window borders and a
user of the company’s operating sys- So you might think I would be pre- way to scroll through a 3-D “stack” of
tems and software, not just a fan, but disposed to love Vista, Microsoft’s your open windows to find the one you
a champion. I have insisted that MS- newest version of Windows, which was want. Networking computers is virtu-
DOS wasn’t hard to use (once you got scheduled to be released to consum- ally automatic, as it was supposed to
used to it), that Windows 3.1 was the ers at the end of January. And indeed, be but never quite has been with Win-
greatest innovation in desktop oper- I leaped at the opportunity to review dows XP. The Photo Gallery is the best
ating systems, that Word was in fact it. I couldn’t wait to finally see and use built-in organizer I’ve used to manage
superior to WordPerfect, and that Win- the long-delayed operating system that digital pictures; it even includes basic
dows XP was, quite simply, “it.” I had been reading and writing about photo correction tools.
When I was forced to use Apple’s Mac for more than three years. Regard- But many of Vista’s “new” features
OS (versions 7.6 through 9.2) less of widespread skepti- seemed terribly familiar to me—as they
WINDOWS VISTA
for a series of jobs, I grum- OPERATING SYSTEM cism, I was confident that will to any user of Apple’s OS X Tiger
bled, griped, and insisted that $99.95–$399.00 Vista would dazzle me, and operating system. Live thumbnails that
www.microsoft.com/
Windows was better. Even as windowsvista I looked forward to saying display petite versions of minimized
I slowly acclimated at work, I so in print. windows, search boxes integrated into
bought only Windows PCs for myself Ironically, playing around with Vista every Explorer window, and especially
and avoided my roommate’s recherché for more than a month has done what the Sidebar—which contains “Gadgets”
new iBook as if it were fugu. I admitted years of experience and exhortations such as a weather updater and a head-
it was pretty, but I just knew that you from Mac-loving friends could not: it line reader—all mimic OS X features
got more computing power for your has converted me into a Mac fan. introduced in 2005. The Windows ver-
buck from an Intel-based Windows A little context and a caveat: in order sions are outstanding—they’re just not
machine, and of course there was far to meet print deadlines, I had to review really innovative.
more software available for PCs. Yet the “RC1” version of Vista Ultimate, Unfortunately, Vista RC1 contained
my adoration wasn’t entirely logical; which Microsoft released in order to bugs that rendered some promising fea-
I knew from experience, for example, gather feedback from over-eager early tures, such as the new version of Win-
that Mac crashes were easier to recover adopters. Such post-beta, prerelease dows Media Center, unusable for me
from than the infamous Blue Screen of testing reveals bugs and deficits that in- (an acquaintance who acquired a final
Death. At the heart of it all, I was sim- house testing misses; debuggers cannot copy of Vista ahead of release assures
ply more used to Windows. Even when mimic all the various configurations me that all that has been fixed).
I finally bought a Mac three years ago, of hardware, software, and peripher- My efforts to get Media Center
it was solely to meet the computing als that users will assemble. And Vista working highlighted two big prob-
requirements of some of the publica- RC1 was maddeningly buggy. Although lems with Vista. First, it’s a memory
I
changed everything. Users can now n 2006, Sony tested the patience of which manufactured the Rocket eBook,
run OS X and Windows on the same e-book fans by twice delaying the an elegant little device that captured my
computer; with third-party software release of its PRS-500 reading device, fancy when I first reviewed it—for Tech-
such as Parallels Desktop, you don’t originally set for the spring. The com- nology Review—in 1999. NuvoMedia is
even need to reboot to switch back pany finally started taking orders over now defunct, the victim of high e-book
and forth. The chip swap also makes the Web in September, and the gadget prices imposed by publishers and an
it possible to compare prices directly. I can now be bought at electronics stores ill-conceived merger with Gemstar–TV
recently used the Apple and Dell web- and some Borders bookstores. Guide International. Most of its com-
sites to price comparable desktops and It was worth the wait. The Sony petitors went down, too. Sony was one
laptops; they were $100 apart or less in Reader’s selling point is its black-and- of the first to reënter the market.
each case. The difference is that Apple white “electronic paper” screen, which Even in my NuvoMedia days, I was
doesn’t offer any lower-end processors, has been advertised as a far better imi- aware of the technology being devel-
so its cheapest computers cost quite a tation of ink on paper than the LCDs oped by E Ink, a startup in Cambridge,
bit more than the least-expensive PCs. found in laptops, cell phones, and MA, founded in 1997 by researchers at
As Vista penetrates the market, how- earlier generations of e-book read- MIT’s Media Lab (see “Electronic Paper
ever, the slower processors are likely to ing devices. After curling up Turns the Page,” March 2001).
become obsolete—minimizing any cost for a couple of weeks with a SONY READER Their clever idea: sandwich
(PRS-500)
differences between PCs and Macs. unit lent to me by Sony, I’m $349.99 millions of tiny, liquid-filled
I may need Windows for a long happy to report that it lives www.sony.com/reader microcapsules between two
time to come; many electronic gad- up to its billing. It isn’t a layers of electrodes, the top
gets such as PDAs and MP3 players replacement for paper—but it is the first one transparent. Floating inside each
can only be synched with a computer e-book device that works well enough microcapsule are thousands of posi-
running Windows, and some software to appeal to a large swath of readers, tively charged white particles and
is still not available for Macs. But the even given its $350 price tag. negatively charged black particles.
long-predicted migration of software If electronic publishing is to take A negative charge applied at a given
from the desktop to the Internet is off, a good reading device will be nec- electrode on the lower layer pulls the
finally happening. Organizations now essary but not sufficient. Sony’s system white particles to the bottom of nearby
routinely access crucial programs from for delivering e-books has a key weak- microcapsules and pushes the black
commercial Web servers, and consum- ness: content is too expensive. At the particles to the top, creating a black
ers use Google’s services to compose, prices Sony and its publishing partners mark beneath the transparent elec-
edit, and store their e-mail, calendars, are charging for the e-book versions trode; clusters of these marks make
and even documents and spreadsheets of current hardcovers, just 25 books up the equivalent of a black pixel in an
(see “Homo Conexus,” July/August will set you back about $350. The same LCD screen. This held out the prom-
2006). As this shift accelerates, finding problem has derailed almost every ise of both higher resolution (since the
software that works with a particular attempt at making electronic books pixels can be made smaller than those
operating system will be less of a con- into a mass-market product. in LCDs) and longer battery life (since
cern. People will be able to base deci- I’d been waiting for Sony to release the particles stay in place, without any
sions about which OS to use strictly on an English-language e-book reader further electricity use, until the user
merit, and on personal preference. For since 2004, when it introduced its first calls up the next page). And this is the
me, if the choice is between struggling e-paper device, the Librié, in Japan. My technology that Sony licensed for the
to configure every feature and being interest in electronic-paper technology Librié and the Reader PRS-500.
able to boot up and get to work, at long dates back to 1999–2001, when I served I’d long wanted to see E Ink’s tech-
last I choose the Mac. as managing editor for a technology nology in action. And as it turns out,
Erika Jonietz is a Technology Review senior news site called eBookNet. The site was the Reader’s six-inch-diagonal dis-
editor. owned by a startup called NuvoMedia, play is a beauty. It’s 800 pixels high
and 600 pixels wide, giving it a resolu- can press those buttons up to 7,500 In fact, I doubt that e-books will be
tion of roughly 170 pixels per inch (that times before the Reader runs out of seen as a viable alternative to commer-
trounces a standard LCD’s 90 to 120 power, according to Sony. I believe it. cial print books until they’re so cheap
pixels per inch), which means charac- I charged the device once, used it for that their ephemerality doesn’t mat-
ters appear sharper and smoother than more than 20 hours, and never came ter to buyers. With iTunes, Apple has
on other displays. The Reader’s screen close to depleting its battery. demonstrated that for downloadable
doesn’t achieve the crispness of black But if you buy a lot of e-books songs and TV shows, this magic price
text on the thick, bleached pages of a from Sony’s online bookstore, you point is $1 to $2. Because reading an
hardcover book. But the contrast ratio will quickly deplete your wallet. The e-book is so different from reading
of the Reader’s screen—the brightness “Connect eBooks” store is to the a print book, e-books aren’t directly
of the whites measured against the Reader what iTunes is to the iPod and comparable to downloadable songs,
deepness of the blacks—is 8:1, which is almost as easy to use; customers which can sound just as good as CDs.
puts it on a par with newsprint. browse titles using a Windows pro- Still, I’d guess the magic price point is
Sony was careful to make the quarter- gram provided with the Reader, down- quite low; personally, I wouldn’t pay
kilogram device, which weighs about as load purchased e-books to their PCs, much more than $5 or $6, or about the
much as a two-thirds-full can of soda, and manually synchronize their Read- price of a low-end paperback.
comfortable to hold and easy to oper- ers with their PCs. The store offers a Of course, high book prices aren’t
ate. There are special buttons for navi- decent range of current and backlist the only reason the Sony Reader may
gating from any page in an e-book to the titles, at prices comparable to those be slow to catch on. Many people’s
table of contents and to various chapters; Amazon charges for print books. For pockets and purses are already stuffed
there’s another button for changing the example, the electronic version of Wal- with more gadgets than they’d like.
text size, a helpful feature for the bifocals ter Mosley’s Fortunate Son, which lists A dedicated e-book reader may not
crowd. The device lacks a search func- at $23.95 in hardcover, is discounted make the cut. And while Sony’s device
tion, but you can skip through a book in by the publisher to $17.95, and further is capable of displaying Word files,
10 percent (or 10-page) increments, and discounted by Sony to $14.36. (Amazon PDFs, gray-scale graphics, and RSS
there’s a bookmark button. charges $16.29 for the hardcover.) But feeds (including news stories or blog
The only two buttons you have to I can’t see readers paying that much for entries downloaded each day from the
remember, though, are the ones for e-books. A $5.95 paperback, cheap as Web), it doesn’t do any of these things
paging forward and back. And you it may feel, is a concrete thing. as well as laptops do.
Still, when it comes to pure read-
ability, the Sony Reader proves that
e-book technology is finally good
enough to appeal to parts of the mass
market. In fact, it may be just the first
of a new generation of reading devices:
in November, iRex, a Dutch spinoff of
Royal Philips Electronics, started ship-
ping the iLiad e-paper device (which
looks remarkably similar to the Sony
Reader but costs more than twice as
much), and rumors in the blogosphere
indicated that Amazon was working
on its own e-paper device. Now hard-
ware makers and content providers
need to settle on a business model that
makes sense to consumers. Econom-
ics, not ergonomics or engineering,
will determine whether the second
coming of e-book devices lasts longer
C O U RTE SY O F S O NY
U
ntil the early 1970s, it could be Two simple reactions gave Rowland lation centers of North America and
said that, like politics, all chem- and Molina concern: Cl + O3 = ClO Europe, could change the atmosphere
istry was local. That changed in + O2, and ClO + O = Cl + O2. That on a global scale.
dramatic fashion with a series of dis- is, chlorine (Cl) reacted with ozone
coveries concerning the global effects of (O3), generating chlorine monoxide Ozone Diplomacy
a family of chemicals called chlorofluo- (ClO), which in turn reacted with an This September will mark the 20th
rocarbons, or CFCs. These compounds oxygen atom to release another chlo- anniversary of the Montreal Protocol
had played a key role in the midcen- rine; the net result was that the chlo- on Substances that Deplete the Ozone
tury chemical revolution, allowing rine was destroying ozone without Layer, an international agreement that
such innovations as safe refrigeration, depleting itself. “When we found the set a schedule for freezing and then
cheap aerosol deodorants, and wide- chain reactions” occurring in the ozone phasing out the production of CFCs
spread air conditioning. First com- layer, remembered Rowland this fall, (the 1987 treaty, which mandated
mercialized by DuPont in the fate of CFCs “suddenly halving CFC production in industrial
the early 1930s under the THE MONTREAL
PROTOCOL ON SUB-
went from a scientific curi- countries by 1998, was subsequently
trade name Freon, CFCs STANCES THAT DEPLETE osity to an environmental revised; CFC production was ended in
THE OZONE LAYER
appeared to be the per- September 16, 1987 worry.” the United States by 1996). The Mon-
fect industrial chemical: The next decade was treal Protocol is widely considered a
nontoxic, nonflammable, and odor- a contentious one for Rowland and milestone. Even President Reagan, no
less. But in 1973, a pair of chemists at Molina, as many in the general pub- friend of environmental regulations,
the University of California, Irvine— lic, the chemical industry, and even the declared it a “monumental achieve-
Sherwood Rowland and his postdoc- scientific community expressed skepti- ment” as he signed the treaty.
toral fellow Mario Molina—began to cism that a nontoxic gas sprayed out of Two decades later, progress toward
explore the fate of the CFC gases that a can (in the early 1970s, recalls Row- an international agreement on control-
were being emitted into the atmo- land, roughly two-thirds of CFCs were ling greenhouse gases has reached a
sphere. Molina began the investiga- used as propellants in aerosol prod- deadlock, and comparisons are inevi-
tion of CFCs in October of that year, ucts, such as deodorants) could have a table. There are, of course, differences
and by Christmas, the researchers had significant impact on the composition between CFCs and the gases, includ-
their answer: the CFCs were breaking of the atmosphere—much less on the ing carbon dioxide, that cause global
down in the atmospheric ozone layer, viability of life on earth. “If you came warming. Most important, the energy
which begins 15 kilometers above the off the street, it seemed ludicrous that production that releases carbon dioxide
earth, ends roughly 30 kilometers later, underarm deodorants might have an drives the economies of both rich and
and absorbs much of the sun’s deadly effect in a global way,” Rowland says. poor countries. What’s more, whereas
ultraviolet radiation. In 1978 the United States banned CFCs were produced by a handful of
The researchers found that the the use of CFCs in most spray-can large chemical companies, carbon diox-
CFCs wafted up through the lower applications. But in the early 1980s, ide emissions involve many different
atmosphere intact, too stable to react models of the atmospheric chemis- industries and applications. Curbing
with the swirling brew of chemicals try involving CFCs became more and greenhouse gases will be far harder
around them. But once they reached more complex, and various questions and require changes that are far more
the mid- stratosphere, above most arose over the science. economically disruptive.
of the protective layer of ozone, the In 1985, Rowland and Molina were But there are also striking similar-
intense solar radiation broke the CFC vindicated. British scientists using ities between CFCs and greenhouse
molecules apart, releasing chlorine. ground-based instruments spotted a gases, and lessons to be learned from
A Stern Warning
Can such simplicity be duplicated in
an international agreement to control
greenhouse gases? Probably not, given
the complexity of the task and the great
Chemists Mario Molina (left) and Sherwood Rowland, shown in 1976, calculated that CFCs diversity of industries and technologies
used in aerosols, refrigeration, and air conditioning were destroying the ozone layer. that need to be part of the solution. But
neither should the history of the Mon-
the Montreal Protocol—particularly how the differences are quantitative rather treal Protocol be ignored.
to get multiple countries, large interna- than qualitative.” DuPont and the other CFC produc-
tional corporations, and regulators to Indeed, in one important respect ers were ultimately motivated by the
agree on a control strategy. In his 1991 the effort to reduce greenhouse gases is prospect of a lucrative new market;
book, Ozone Diplomacy, Richard E. fundamentally like the effort to reduce given such an incentive, their chem-
Benedick, deputy assistant secretary of CFCs: in each case, those who want ists and chemical engineers rushed
state for environment, health, and nat- change must motivate industry, espe- new technologies into production with
ural resources under President Reagan, cially large corporations, to develop unprecedented speed. While finding
described the compromises that led to the technologies needed to accomplish alternatives to burning fossil fuels is
the success of the Montreal Protocol, it. One of the most notable achieve- far more difficult, the business oppor-
detailing the scientific and technologi- ments of the Montreal Protocol was tunities are also far larger. The market
cal uncertainties and the political dis- that chemical companies quickly saw for low-carbon energy products will
putes that faced those negotiating it. the market opportunities created by reach $500 billion by 2050, according
He points out that many elements of his the agreement. By its account, DuPont, to the Stern Review on the Economics
story, particularly the political fighting the Wilmington, DE–based chemi- of Climate Change, recently released
and the need to reach a consensus in cal giant that in the mid-1980s made by the British Treasury.
the face of doubt, should be familiar to roughly half the CFCs produced in the The effectiveness of any strategy on
those attempting to reach an agreement United States, spent $500 million over global warming will depend on how
on greenhouse gases. As Benedick, the the next few years to develop substi- well it creates new markets. That much
chief U.S. negotiator on the Montreal tutes. By the early 1990s, DuPont and was learned from the Montreal Pro-
Protocol, writes in the 1998 revised its industry rivals, which included tocol. But perhaps the greatest lesson
edition, “Especially to apologists some of the world’s largest chemical is also one of the simplest: when sci-
of inaction on the climate front, the manufacturers, had begun to supply ence shows us a looming environmen-
Montreal Protocol can be portrayed as CFC substitutes to refrigeration and tal disaster, we need to act quickly and
either too simple or not replicable. But air-conditioning manufacturers, and decisively, regardless of the economic
AS S O C IATE D P R E S S
although it is obvious that the climate they’d launched massive construction or technical uncertainties.
change issue is more complicated and projects to build additional capacity to David Rotman is the editor of Technology
difficult than that of the ozone layer, produce these chemicals. Review.
I
n his lab in Sunnyvale, CA, David The gadget is called a photonic do all this includes lasers that send
Welch, cofounder of telecom startup integrated circuit, and it represents an light, multiplexers that split it up or
Infinera, holds up a rigid two- important practical advance in opti- recombine it, modulators that encode
centimeter-wide strip featuring four cal data transmission. Since the early it with data, and detectors that receive
patterned, gold-colored rectangles. It’s 1990s, such transmission has increas- it. Traditionally, these devices have
made of indium phosphide, a semicon- ingly relied on a technique called wave- been housed in their own little pack-
P H OTO G RAP H S BY E M I LY NATHAN
ductor prized for its optical properties. length division multiplexing (WDM). ages, each about the size of a pack of
The chip’s simple appearance belies With WDM, data is encoded on as gum, and combinations of them were
its complex engineering and gives little many as 80 laser beams, each having bulky, expensive, and sometimes unre-
hint that it could be the key to cheaply a different wavelength. Those beams liable. Infinera—founded in 2001 by
supplying the bandwidth demanded by are then combined for a trip down an veteran executives and technologists
a YouTube-addicted world. optical fiber thinner than a human hair. from optical-telecom leaders like Ciena
and JDS Uniphase—set out to put doz- single chip. The first Infinera device so it can clean them up and amplify
ens of such components on a chip, the was capable of sending or receiving them, or deliver them to a computer.
way electrical engineers combine tran- 100 gigabits of information per sec- Infinera’s technology does this, too,
sistors in an electronic integrated cir- ond. Now the company has demon- passing some jobs off to microproces-
cuit. “What nobody had tried to do strated a 400-gigabit chip and is well sors on a circuit board that will then
was essentially put an entire WDM along in the development of what it transfer them back.
system on a pair of chips [one to send, describes as the fastest optical chip in But the photonic integrated circuit
the other to receive], and nobody had the world—a 1.6-terabit version that it reduced the cost and complexity of the
tried to commercially manufacture it,” expects to commercialize within sev- conversion process. This advantage,
says Welch. Infinera not only tried to eral years. The four gold patches on in turn, allowed Infinera to promote
do both but succeeded. the chip in Welch’s hand contain an a new network architecture—essen-
In 2004 the company introduced the astonishing total of 240 patterned opti- tially, one with more network nodes.
first large-scale photonic integrated cal components. Other companies had tried to keep
circuit—a chip with 50 nanoscale opti- Of course, despite the theoretical costs down by reducing the number
cal components patterned into its sur- advantages of an “all-optical Internet,” of nodes, with their traditionally bulky
face. Previously, other optical-chip no network is based entirely on optics. optical devices.
manufacturers had managed to inte- Equipment at network nodes con- Having more nodes means more
grate only a few such devices on a verts optical signals to electrical ones flexibility to add access points and
Technology Awards
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From the Labs
Current research in information technology, nanotechnology, and biotechnology
Spinning Light
A system combining a magnetic
material and a semiconductor could
lead to spintronic devices that pack
more data into beams of light
a limb and adapt its gait accordingly. the robot’s onboard computer creates of electrons (spintronics).
WHY IT MATTE RS: Robots are use- mathematical models of the state of its WHY IT MATTE RS: Lasers based on
ful for exploring environments that body. If one of the robot’s limbs is dam- spintronics, rather than on conven-
are too harsh for humans—unless they aged, data from the sensors can be used tional electronics, have the potential
Executive Education
Resource for
Technology Leaders
Take the initiative! Access helpful articles and tips and view our online directory at:
http://www.technologyreview.com/resources/execed/
PROGRAM DIRECTORY
To list your program in the Executive Education Directory, e-mail Maureen Elmaleh at
maureen.elmaleh@technologyreview.com or call, 212-419-2823.
From the Labs
to increase bandwidth in optical net- artery in a collapsed form, induced to to its intermediate, and finally to its
works. Currently, data is encoded as open once in place, and later shrunk original, shape.
the frequency and phase characteris- for removal. The researchers dem- NEXT STEPS: The researchers must
tics of a beam of light. In a spintronic onstrated such an intelligent tube, demonstrate that the materials are safe
laser, however, electrons with a certain along with a structure that could be enough to be used in medical appli-
spin can create photons with a corre- used in device manufacture to connect cations. They are also developing fas-
sponding spin, resulting in polarized difficult-to-access parts. tener materials that could be useful in
light. Using polarization to encode a M ETHODS: Each of the new mate- manufacturing.
light beam with data could increase rials is a polymer network consisting
the amount of information it can carry. of two different cross-linked segments
But until now, researchers have lacked
Invisible Transistors
A novel method could lead to see-
materials suitable for making spin- 20 °C through displays for windshields
tronic lasers.
M ETHODS: Using standard pro-
cesses, Smith and Lu deposited a thin SOU RCE: “High-Performance Transparent
film of manganese gallium onto gal- Inorganic-Organic Hybrid Thin-Film N-Type
Transistors”
lium nitride. Reflection high-energy Lian Wang et al.
electron diffraction revealed a smooth Nature Materials 5(11): 893–900
interface between the two materials—a
necessity if electrons are to maintain R E S U LT S : Northwestern Univer-
their spin as they travel into the light- 40 °C sity researchers have fabricated high-
emitting semiconductor. performance, transparent thin-film
N E XT STE P S: Researchers must transistors (TFTs) using a low-cost, low-
determine whether the spin charac- temperature method. They use indium
teristics of the electrons are indeed oxide as both a semiconductor and a
preserved. They must also test the conductor, combining the inorganic
material’s light-emitting properties to material with organic insulators on top
determine how well the spin of elec- of a transparent substrate. The resulting
trons translates into polarized light. transistors perform nearly as well as the
60 °C
much more expensive polysilicon tran-
N A N OT E C H N O LO GY sistors used to control pixels in high-end
TVs and computer monitors.
Morphing Materials WHY IT MATTE RS: The new TFTs
New shape-memory polymers can
could replace the opaque transistors
take on three successive shapes
used to control pixels in digital dis-
plays. Because the low-temperature
SOU RCE: “Polymeric Triple-Shape method can deposit transistors on
Materials” A new polymer morphs from one pre-
flexible plastics, it could lead to see-
Ingo Bellin et al. programmed shape to two others: as the
Proceedings of the National Academy of flattened tube (top) is heated, it opens up through displays affixed to curved
Sciences 103(48): 18043–18047 (middle); heating it further makes it shrink. surfaces such as windshields and hel-
met visors. The method is also cheap
RESULTS: Researchers at MIT and the that respond to temperature differently. enough, and easy enough to adapt for
GKSS Research Center in Germany The researchers first cast the mate- large-scale manufacturing, that it could
have engineered polymers that can be rial into its final shape—such as the make such displays affordable.
programmed to sequentially take on shrunken version of the stent—using M ETHODS: On glass that’s been
three different predefined shapes in a standard plastic-molding technique. coated with a transparent electrode,
response to changes in temperature. They then use a precise sequence of the researchers deposit the organic
WHY IT MATTE RS: Existing shape- heating and cooling steps to “program” insulating materials, which form a
G KS S R E S EAR C H C E NTE R
memory polymers can assume only the other two shapes, taking advantage multilayered lattice. To deposit the
two shapes each. The addition of a of the material’s different responses indium oxide, the researchers use a
third shape could enable, say, an arte- to different temperatures. Heating the standard technique called ion-assisted
rial stent that could be inserted into an material in two steps makes it revert deposition, in which an ion beam con-
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5 Years Ago in TR
The Trouble
with Software
By Katherine Bourzac
W
hen you drive a new car off
the lot, you can assume it
won’t need repairs for a long
time (unless you crash it). But when
you install a Microsoft program on
your computer, you assume that your
next step will be to download secu-
rity patches and bug fixes. A July 2002
feature in these pages asked why soft-
ware is so bad and wondered whether
programmers shouldn’t be held to the tank in Washington, DC, and author vehicles today are no better than they
same quality standards as other work- of the 1998 volume Software Engi- were ten or fifteen years ago. The same
ers equally critical to our industrial neering: Theory and Practice. If is true for aeronautical engineers:
civilization, such as mechanical, elec- a bridge survives a 500-kilogram nobody claims that Boeing or Air-
trical, and civil engineers. weight and a 50,000-kilogram weight, bus makes lousy planes. Nor do elec-
That unresolved question has in- Pfleeger notes, engineers can assume trical engineers complain that chips
spired one of software’s leading that it will bear all the values between. and circuitry aren’t improving. As the
lights to propose a radical answer. As With software, she says, “I can’t make engineering historian Henry Petroski
Scott Rosenberg reports in this issue that assumption—I can’t interpolate.” suggested in his 1992 book The Evo-
(see “Anything You Can Do, I Can Moreover, software makers labor lution of Useful Things, continual
Do Meta,” p. 36), Charles Simonyi, under extraordinary demands. refinement is the usual rule in tech-
Microsoft’s chief architect during its Ford and General Motors have been nology. Engineers constantly notice
formative years, has started a com- manufacturing the same product—a shortcomings in their designs and fix
pany dedicated to developing an en- four-wheeled box with an internal- them little by little, a process Petroski
tirely new approach to writing code. combustion engine—for decades. In wryly described as “form follows fail-
Though it’s unclear whether he’ll suc- consequence, says Charles H. Connell, ure.” As a result, products incremen-
ceed, it is clear, as Charles C. Mann former principal engineer of Lotus tally improve.
wrote five years ago, that the software Development (now part of IBM), Software, alas, seems different. One
business has singular problems. they have been able to improve their would expect a 45-million-line pro-
Programming experts tend to agree products incrementally. But software gram like Windows XP, Microsoft’s
that … disasters are distressingly companies are constantly asked to newest operating system, to have a
common. Consider the Mars Climate create products—Web browsers in the few bugs. And software engineering
Orbiter and the Polar Lander, both early 1990s, new cell-phone interfaces is a newer discipline than mechanical
destroyed in 1999 by familiar, read- today—unlike anything seen before. or electrical engineering; the first real
ily prevented coding errors. But some “It’s like a car manufacturer saying, programs were created only 50 years
argue that software simply cannot ‘This year we’re going to make a rocket ago. But what’s surprising—aston-
be judged, measured, and improved ship instead of a car,’” Connell says. ishing, in fact—is that many software
in the same way as other engineer- “Of course they’ll have problems.” … engineers believe that software qual-
ing products. “It’s just a fact that there It is difficult to overemphasize the ity is not improving. If anything, they
are things that other engineers can do uniqueness of software’s problems. say, it’s getting worse. It’s as if the cars
that we can’t do,” says Shari Pfleeger, When automotive engineers discuss the Detroit produced in 2002 were less reli-
a senior researcher at the Rand think cars on the market, they don’t say that able than those built in 1982.
Technology Review (ISSN 1099-274X), Reg. U.S. Patent Office, is published bimonthly by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Entire contents ©2007. The editors seek diverse views, and authors’ opinions do not represent
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