Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Value
Construction in
the Creative
Economy
Negotiating Innovation
and Transformation
edited by
rachel granger
Palgrave Studies in Business, Arts and Humanities
Series Editors
Samantha Warren
Faculty of Business and Law
University of Portsmouth
Portsmouth, UK
Steven S. Taylor
WPI Foisie School of Business
Worcester, MA, USA
Business has much to learn from the arts and humanities, and vice versa.
Research on the links between the arts, humanities and business has been
occurring for decades, but it is fragmented across various business topics,
including: innovation, entrepreneurship, creative thinking, the creative
industries, leadership and marketing.
A variety of different academic streams have explored the links between
the arts, humanities and business, including: organizational aesthetics,
arts-based methods, creative industries, and arts-based research etc. The
field is now a mature one but it remains fragmented. This series is the first
of its kind to bring these streams together and provides a “go-to” resource
on arts, humanities and business for emerging scholars and established
academics alike. This series will include original monographs and edited
collections to further our knowledge of topics across the field.
Value Construction in
the Creative Economy
Negotiating Innovation and Transformation
Editor
Rachel Granger
Faculty of Business and Law
De Montfort University
Leicester, UK
© The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer
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Contents
v
vi Contents
Index279
Notes on Contributors
vii
viii NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS
xi
xii List of Figures
Fig. 9.1 Map of the city centre of Newcastle Upon Tyne (rectangle),
which includes the Ouseburn Valley (circle). (Source: Own
elaboration from Google Maps 2018) 184
Fig. 9.2 Different industrial chimneys in the Toffee Factory at the
Ouseburn186
Fig. 9.3 Local bollards and murals 187
Fig. 9.4 Local tours. (Source: Lesley Turner, Admin & Communications
Officer, Ouseburn Trust) 190
Fig. 9.5 Logo from the Ouseburn Valley and its variation to ‘Made in
the Ouseburn’ campaign. (Source: Ouseburn Trust 2018b) 193
Fig. 11.1 A sector-relational map of creative and digital sectors, Leicester
(2018)225
Fig. 11.2 Key actors and interfaces in Leicester (2018) 236
Fig. 12.1 Two-step flow of communication. (Source: based on Katz and
Lazarsfeld 1955; Robinson 1976) 248
List of Tables
xiii
PART I
Rachel Granger
Introduction
The creative and cultural industries as the primary focus of this book con-
stitute the most distinct area of economic growth of the new Millennium,
and are increasingly viewed as an emerging paradigm in their own right
(see Lazzeretti and Vecco 2018). Recognising and exhorting their early
economic potential, UK and Australia under the Blair and Keating gov-
ernments began to commercialise the creative and cultural industries in
earnest during the 1990s, and in so doing, invested heavily in public and
private flagships, which were to become key international demonstrators,
(for instance, London’s Tech City, Manchester’s Northern Quarter and
Media City, Brisbane’s South Bank and Creative Precinct). These early
demonstrators drove fascination and spawned creative projects through-
out much of the western world, drawing on Florida’s (2001) assertions of
the creative city and creative workers as an economic panacea, and produc-
ing a ‘serial replication’ of investment (McCarthy 2005) in creative infra-
structure. As such, the first decade of the new Millennium could be
R. Granger (*)
De Montfort University, Leicester, UK
e-mail: rachel.granger@dmu.ac.uk
Despite the richness of data now available at a variety of spatial scales and
places, and across sub-sectors (e.g. Florida et al. 2012; Nesta 2018b;
Nathan and Kemeny 2018; Gabe 2011; Lazzeretti 2014), our under-
standing of what it means to be creative (or cultural1), how this is con-
structed, and the wider impact of this remains dictated by the economic
lens. Thus, while the last decade has seen advancements in defining cre-
ativity (e.g. Cunningham 2002; Landry 2011) and understanding the
bifurcation of production and consumption (e.g. Potts et al. 2008a; Anand
and Croidieu 2015), and of new genres of creativity (Capdevila et al.
2015; Floriani and Amal 2018; Lorentzen 2013), the same cannot be said
for our empirical constructions. We have expanded our conceptual under-
standing of the role of others in the creative economy through networks
(Potts et al. 2008b), intermediaries (O’Connor 2015; Hracs 2015; Perry
2019), users (Di Maria and Finotto 2015; Flowers and Voss 2015), and
co-producers (Potts et al. 2008a; Hracs et al. 2018), and we are more
aware of the precarities of pay and access to creative work (Banks 2017;
Oakley and O’Brien 2016), and yet in all of this, our view of value remains
either conceptual or embedded firmly in industrial notions of success
(measured by jobs, earnings, investment, and business), as universal values
based on the use and functionality of creativity.
1
Following Jones et al. (2015, p. 5), the arts and cultural industries can be seen as a subset
of creative industries because they depend on creativity and derive value from this creativity.
See also Tose (2011), Caves (2000), Throsby (2001), Heilbrun and Gray (2001), Throsby
and Withers (1979), and Vogel (2007) for commercial underpinnings of arts and culture.
6 R. GRANGER
relate to: (1) the economic returns on creativity and the hegemonic eco-
nomic lens; (2) the creative city form, premised on capitalist expansion;
(3) the inequalities inherent in the creative paradigm; and (4) the domi-
nance of prevailing narratives in the creative discourse.
Within the creative and cultural industries, diverse communities, actors,
and interests have voice, and the idea of value itself is multiplex. Much of
the definitional basis of creativity and the way society ascribes value to
it—or valorises—draw on economic and productionist terms of reference.
This is reinforced by the views and practices of a small number of institu-
tions, through and by which our perception of value has become institu-
tionalised over time. The overall pattern has been one of reducing complex
aspects of value into simple, often economic configurations, and restrict-
ing analysis to fewer and fewer mainstream activities. To qualify, the recent
Cultural Value Scoping Project in the UK (Kaszynska 2018) conflates
those who actively make, debate, and assess cultural value with ‘people
working in arts and culture’ (ibid., p. 3) or those ‘making and influencing
cultural policy’ (ibid., p. 5). Yet, a more expansive and discursive approach
drawing on ancillary sectors and actions would provide a richer lens
through which to conceptualise impact and worth. As we argue in this
book, there is an imperative for policy and academia to prioritise new ways
of thinking about what value means in the context of the creative and
cultural industries, leading to new ways of working across sectors, drawing
on the experiences and techniques of other disciplines, and adopting new
ways of using the evidence base. Broadening the framework of creative
and cultural activities as active production rather than products, and
including behavioural change and intricate connections (Glaveanu et al.
2014) as part of ecologies, as well as interrogating how conversations
around value are framed, have salience in addressing this current deficit in
understanding. Conversations guide definitions, and conversations and
techniques confined to established communities of understanding and
practice limit new knowledge, as a result of lock-in of ideas and thinking.
It could be argued that prevailing narratives on both the ‘creative city’
and ‘inequality’, which have come to dominate the creative landscape,
refer to two sides of the same coin, and emerge from this productionist
view of creative and cultural industries. The creative city as a spatial mani-
festation of the creative economy, neoliberal at its core, results in a
homogenised socio-economic model, which Mould (2015) argues is para-
doxically devoid of creativity. It is merely the most recent permutation of
1 EXPLORING VALUE IN THE CREATIVE AND CULTURAL INDUSTRIES 7
lens through which we might glean new patterns and theories. In Chap. 2,
Laura Parsons builds on these same ideas to examine the value of culture
to society and reflects on value that remains ostensibly hidden in society as
a result of rigidly applied taxonomies and labels. In her work, Laura dif-
ferentiates between value that is hidden by virtue of being unknown
(unconscious acts), that which is unable to be conveyed through codified
means (tacit, intrinsic, and symbolic values), that which is ephemeral, or in
hard to see settings such as the household. These diverse views on cultural
value serve to shed light on the limitations of mainstream categories and
lenses, and open up ideas for alternative and more nuanced taxonomies.
In Part II of the book, which deals with the Self, several contributors
reflect on different areas of value—embodied, objectified, institution-
alised—and which interact with different power dynamics, that shape per-
formance of creativity and culture. In many of these cases, the creativity
economy is framed in terms of a concerted action and manifestation of
intellectual capital and artistic skills. In Chap. 3, Pinky Bazaz examines
education and specifically degrees, as an objectified part of the creative
economy, from which society ascribes different values. Pinky draws on
Rokeach’s (1973) taxonomy of value to underscore the inherent conflict
between the economic valorising of degrees in the market place, and the
more subtle, soft returns of cultural degrees such as design, especially
faced by BAME groups. Pinky uses the construct of ‘success’ to examine
what cultural capital and performing in universities might mean as a pro-
cess, through which economic value develops, but which for some groups,
creates barriers of achievement in society and raises wider questions around
voice, wealth, power, and race.
In Chap. 4, the same dominant issues of power are brought to bear on
an analysis of the visual and performing arts sector in the UK, and the way
power and policy process militate what art means and how this is accessed,
experienced, and shaped by the corporate other. In their work, Jennie
Jordan and Ruth Jindal examine the notion of ‘philanthropy’ in the arts,
the emergence of which can be viewed as a paradigmatic shift in arts policy
and funding. As Jennie and Ruth argue, the mainstreaming of philan-
thropy into arts is to introduce significant power dynamics into the field,
and fundamentally to alter the experience and value of arts by the self to a
more commercial and collective experience. By shaping the location of,
access to, and content of arts, philanthropy in effect changes art from an
individual to a collective experience and process, shaped by commer-
cial others.
1 EXPLORING VALUE IN THE CREATIVE AND CULTURAL INDUSTRIES 13
In Chap. 10, David Heap and Caroline Coles reflect further on the
value of the hidden in collective terms, by investigating the notion (or
value) or silent design in the commercial design sectors. David and
Caroline draw on the examples of silent design in the furniture industry
and the value of non-designers in the wider design process. Reflecting
further on the legal and commercial dominance of value in design, David
and Caroline raise some concerns about the degree to which the economic
lens pervades many aspects of creative performance, effectively excluding
some groups from commercial success, preventing some workers from
performing as designers, and imposing significant risks on others through
intellectual property. David and Caroline conclude by examining the role
of creative commons in value construction, and whether this acts as a pro-
cess through which other values are enabled. The same ideas are expressed
in Chap. 11 on hidden networks, where I take a relational view of the
creative economy and examine the degree to which some actors and sub-
sectors perform different roles in producing economic value in creative
products. While current taxonomies and measurement apparatus privilege
the economic value of the end product, we seldom view products as a
longer-term process and acknowledge the role of intermediaries, co-
designers, and gatekeepers, or ancillary networks and platforms.
Acknowledging platform in a different, virtual, sense, Tracy Harwood,
Jason Boomer, and Tony Garry examine the different performances that
play out through the ‘Let’s Play’ field, which has emerged from the prac-
tice of Machinima. Viewed ostensibly as a consumptive practice, Tracy,
Jason, and Tony examine the wider values derived from the Let’s Play
performance, which is viewed as a complex interplay between both con-
sumption and production. This interplay between production and con-
sumption, hidden and visible, and individual and collective raises a number
of issues about how frameworks need to straddle and be flexible.
Performing in this area produces considerable value and is leading to a
rewriting of the creative economy taxonomy.
These different contributions serve to remind us that the creative econ-
omy is not an amorphous term; rather a set of separate sub-sectors, actors,
and areas of practice with very different characteristics, histories, and lan-
guage. The book spans the areas of gaming, textiles and fashion, food, and
art, but also thinks about the role and production of communities, pro-
cesses, identities, and expressions. It provides a variegated menu that will
have broad appeal and offer different policy ideas and contributions to the
wider creative discourse. While Pinky Bazaz (Chap. 3) and Jennie Jordan
1 EXPLORING VALUE IN THE CREATIVE AND CULTURAL INDUSTRIES 15
and Ruth Jindal (Chap. 4) address power in a negative way, Jennifer Garcia
Carrizo and I (Chap. 8) frame this as an empowering process. Equally,
while David Rae (Chap. 7) and David Heap and Caroline Coles (Chap.
10), for example, frame power as a hidden asset and space through which
value is constructed, Claire Lerpiniere (Chap. 4) and Malika Kraamer
(Chap. 5) frame this more emphatically as an expressive event. In these
seemingly disparate accounts, we have attempted to provide a variety of
viewpoints on what is often conveyed as an exclusively economic area
of activity.
We believe that a desirable attribute of this book is that it accommo-
dates a wide variety of viewpoints and sector analyses of the creative econ-
omy, and in doing so draws upon a diversity of conceptual frameworks and
approaches that readers might use for further development. Value has
been conveyed in a variety of ways and the goal of the book is not to pro-
vide a unified approach and ideological framework; rather to present a
diverse framework with options that might stimulate future conversations,
leading to more nuanced approaches and understanding of value capture.
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18 R. GRANGER
Laura Parsons and Rachel Granger
Introduction
In the previous chapter, culture and the wider creative paradigm were
argued to be one of the most notable areas of economic activity of the new
millennium, and as Lazzeretti and Vecco (2018) note, have come to dom-
inate policy and scholarly outputs over the last decade. In this chapter, the
hidden aspects of that creative landscape are considered in full. The chap-
ter examines what is meant by hidden culture, the value attached to this,
as well as why culture becomes hidden.
Culture is a contested notion, having been subject to frequent scrutiny
and debate in cross-disciplinary scholarship (e.g. Crossick and Kaszynska
2016; Williams 1989; Belfiore and Bennett 2007). In the literature, cul-
ture is portrayed frequently as both a solution (an economic solution to
locales), but is then problematised as a result of its neoliberalist tendencies
(framed frequently as injustice and precarity), and a problematic economic
asset and tool. For example, the cultural industries as one area of the cre-
ative economy are widely credited as a driver for economic growth and
urban regeneration (e.g. Florida 2014; Landry 2000), but as Granger
argues in the previous chapter, neoliberalist paradigms have given primacy
Defining Culture
Despite the disparate use of ‘culture’ as a term, a common thread in
discipline-specific literatures is that the scope or terminology of culture is
either too broad to be meaningful, or so narrow as to exclude certain cul-
tural forms or societal elements (Eagleton 2000). This is especially evident
in the work of Williams (1971), who extols a whole range of general skills
in culture, from gardening, metalwork, and carpentry to active politics.
That said, what can be gleaned from the wide range of literature devoted
2 PROBLEMATISING HIDDEN CULTURE 21
the case for art and culture, which differentiates between traditionalist
consumers, creative intellectuals, and aspiring parents. The rigidity of this
approach leaves little room to reflect on the nuances of a community and
demonstrates a view of culture only as a tool for societal improvement.
It might also be argued that economic value is clearly prioritised over
social or intrinsic value. While the white paper devotes pages to financial
value of the creative economy, the intrinsic benefits receive just one para-
graph: “Culture creates inspiration, enriches lives and improves our out-
look on life. Evidence suggests that culture has an intrinsic value through
the positive impact on personal wellbeing. Data shows that engaging with
culture (visiting, attending and participation) significantly increases overall
life satisfaction” (DCMS 2016, p. 15). This view of culture, in which the
public are consumers rather than creators, seems to disregard the cultural
forms which give groups collective identity, or that which cannot be reli-
ably measured.
Creative Scotland, the counterpart to Arts Council England, are careful
within policy documents not to conflate the terms ‘art’ and ‘culture’.
Culture is used more broadly, alongside heritage, to connote a specific set
of defining national and regional characteristics, such as the “special local
intimacy of local creativity in places like Helmsdale, Langholm and
Ullapool”, while the “Arts, Screen and Creative Industries” are designated
as having specific (and more circumspect) “cultural value” (Scottish
Government 2019, p. 6). The culture strategy for Scotland was written
after consultation with cultural organisations and creative individuals, and
eschews the usual economic markers in favour of ambitions of transforma-
tion, empowerment, and sustainability. Similarly, Creative Australia takes
the notion of defining national characteristics further, describing culture
as “created by us and defines us. It is the embodiment of the distinctive
values, traditions and beliefs that make being Australian in the 21st cen-
tury unique”, placing emphasis on the grounding of the culture in indig-
enous Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander culture and acknowledging
the cyclical nature of culture (Creative Australia 2013, p. 8). The docu-
ment also stresses that “[c]ulture is more than the arts”, acknowledging
indigenous languages and ceremonies, collective celebrations, craft, and
design as valid cultural forms and “the substance to our identity” (ibid.).
Looking across these different forms, only some of which have been
presented here, there appears to be a common language of community
and transformation in Western cultural policy, but a very different approach
to defining what culture comprises. This may be due, in part, to the
2 PROBLEMATISING HIDDEN CULTURE 23
Languages
Literary scholars Raymond Williams and Terry Eagleton utilise historical
and theoretical perspectives on culture to make sense of culture, with both
venturing—verbatim—that a “culture, while it is being lived, is always in
part unknown, in part unrealised” (Williams 1971, p. 320; Eagleton 2000,
p. 112). In his socialist reading of culture, Williams (1971, 1989) rejects
elitist tropes and divisive boundaries in defining what may be defined as a
cultural object or activity. In categorising an exclusive preference for ‘high’
art, he classifies almost all intellectual output, including trade union
marches and political speeches, as cultural artefacts. In this sense, culture
has been framed as an emancipatory political device and is elevated to
become the measure of our future success. By contrast, Eagleton rejects
the notion that culture can form a utopia, questioning Williams’ inclusion
of institutions as culture and suggesting that this definition would render
a public lavatory a cultural institution (2000, p. 38). However, in criticis-
ing postmodernist readings of culture which “privilege the minority” as a
concession to “identity politics” (2000, p. 10), Eagleton also disregards
feminist, post-colonial, and queer critiques of culture, thus silencing the
voices which may effectively disrupt traditional and restrictive definitions
of culture, and which have a stronger voice in contemporary spaces.
Visual Arts
Visual art scholars, by contrast, tend to define culture through a produc-
tionist lens, with the art object representing cultural norms and values,
and acting as a signifier of symbolic meanings through inter alia class
struggle and gender inequality (Hadjinicolaou 1978; Berger 2008).
Debate by art scholars over the role of the artist as a uniquely creative
force within society provides rich ground for the artist to be used as a
proxy for the value of art.
In The Social Production of Art, however, Wolff (1993) critiques the
shibboleth of the artist as a creator and names the artist a producer, in part
to democratise the role of artist; acknowledging creative agency among a
greater range of individuals and communities. Acknowledging a broader
24 L. PARSONS AND R. GRANGER
Economic-Led Considerations
Despite the apparent dominance of the economic lens, policy makers and
arts funding bodies, cultural economists have predominantly resisted the
reliance on the restrictive boundaries of economic methods to value cul-
ture as a whole (Throsby 2001; Bakhshi and Cunningham 2016). In cri-
tiquing “the reification of the economy” (Throsby 2001, p. 2), Throsby
acknowledges the twofold nature of culture as both a way of life of an
identifiable group, and the cultural artefacts produced by such a way of
life, utilising multiple lenses to ascribe value, including aesthetic, spiritual,
historical, symbolic, and authentic value. This may be seen to consolidate
the work of scholars in art and literature, by acknowledging the holistic
value of various modes of culture.
Throsby (2001, p. 4) offers a triumvirate framework to define culture,
but in contradistinction to Williams (op. cit.) adopts an anthropological
lens, emphasising culture as an object rather than process:
Culture in Sociology
At the centre of Bourdieu’s (2010) influential work on the relationship
between social order and cultural products is the idea that systems of edu-
cation, language, judgements, values, methods of classification, and activi-
ties of everyday life unconsciously reinforce hierarchies and class structure.
Within the concept of ‘habitus’, cultural practices derive significance not
2 PROBLEMATISING HIDDEN CULTURE 25
from intrinsic qualities, as in readings by art and literary scholars, but from
their relationship to one another. Bourdieu uses ‘taste’, a preference for
certain cultural forms, as a proxy for cultural value and a signifier of class.
Hall’s (1997) work on the politics of representation draws similarities with
Bourdieu insofar as the assertion that art, music, images, and even the
food that we consume represent the material dimension of a wider system
of beliefs and practices. As Hall notes: “social actors … use the conceptual
systems of their culture and the linguistic and other representational sys-
tems to construct meaning, to make the world meaningful and to com-
municate about that world meaningfully to others” (Hall 1997, p. 25).
However, whereas Bourdieu’s theory of ‘habitus’ incorporates genera-
tional evolutions of taste and social structure, tied irrevocably to notions
of power, Hall posits that the symbolic meaning of cultural products
changes continuously, propounding the notion of culture as a tool for
radical social change.
Bourdieu’s methods have come under scrutiny in the wake of societal
transformations from the late twentieth century onwards (see Bennett
et al. 2009; Warde et al. 2007). For example, Bennett et al. (2009) argue
that the lack of empirical data does not support the distinctions in taste
and subsequent relationships to class. Bourdieu’s model is predicated
firstly upon distinct boundaries between legitimate and disinterested ‘low-
brow’ cultural forms, and Bennett et al. (2009, p. 257) find that disinter-
est was rare, suggesting that accessibility is a more significant factor in
cultural forms (2009, p. 257), and that the overlap between what is con-
sidered legitimate and popular is at best unclear. Lash and Urry (1994)
also depart from Bourdieu and Hall’s focus on the primacy of the cultural
product as signifier, mirroring instead Wolff’s (1993) more tempered defi-
nition of the artist as producer, and noting transformation in its role: “cul-
tural artefacts are no longer transcendent as representations … they have
become immanent as objects amongst others circulating in information
and communication structures; and that these become the reality of every-
day life[.] More recently we have seen representations taking up the func-
tional position of objects, objects which only differ from other objects of
everyday life in their immaterial form and aesthetic character” (Lash and
Urry 1994, p. 132). This focus on the symbiotic influence of social struc-
ture and cultural product is useful, as Bourdieu’s work is influential, but as
noted here, it highlights the problem of classifying cultural forms and the
limitations of poor data in illustrating value and values.
26 L. PARSONS AND R. GRANGER
With this in mind, one might define culture as: ‘an object, activity or rite
resulting from or in a transformative process, which conveys symbolic mean-
ing to a community bound by shared experience, iterating a wider system of
practices and values’.
This definition moves away from the previous discussion on historical
utopian ideals, instead focusing on the circumstance, location, and tempo-
rality of the creation of the cultural artefact. In an increasingly globalised
society there can be no singular idea of utopia, arguably an outdated and
colonialist notion (Hardy 2012). This definition instead focuses on plural-
ity of beliefs, values, and experience which make the study of cultures so
rich. It privileges the art object, the signifying act, and the long-held cus-
tom to democratise what we define as culture and broaden its scope (see
Williams 1971). The necessity of a transformative process allows tacit and
domestic activities and objects to become cultural signifiers, and the inclu-
sion of community dispels this myth of the isolated creator, while the
notion of an iterative system suggests the circular motion of culture influ-
encing values and being influenced by them.
face-to-face contact but also raises an issue about culture capture. It seems
logical that in an increasingly migratory and digitised world, cultural space
may not just be physical, a point made by Harwood et al. in Chap. 11.
Digital spaces offer the possibility of such exchanges over greater distance,
which Bathelt et al. (2004) acknowledge in their work on ‘Local Buzz and
Global Pipelines’. This extended reach afforded by the digital and by
migrant communities also creates opportunities for further innovation and
creativity through synthetic knowledge. Thus one might conclude that
networks are important in the transfer of tacit knowledge and, seemingly,
in the perpetuation of hidden culture.
Gertler describes communities of practice as groups “bound together
by shared experience, expertise and commitment to a joint enterprise”
who facilitate the identification, joint production, and sharing of tacit
knowledge through collaborative problem-solving assisted by story-telling
and other narrative devices for circulating tacit knowledge (Gertler 2001,
p. 11). At the centre of these networks are ‘knowledge enablers’, who are
small groups within larger communities who hold and transfer privileged
symbolic knowledge. In cultural terms, these enablers could be storytellers
relaying folklore, graffiti artists, documentary filmmakers, matriarchs
teaching family how to cook, or online influencers. Identifying these
knowledge enablers in a model for valuing hidden cultures would be use-
ful in mapping networks and tracking the flow of symbolic meaning in
communities.
Finally, the problem of capturing and sharing tacit knowledge is
acknowledged widely, whether this takes the form of unwillingness to cod-
ify certain knowledge or lack of capacity to do so. For example, the impor-
tance of techniques for ‘capture’, ‘harvest’, or ‘unlocking’ is considered.
However, it is worth noting that Gertler’s work operates within the eco-
nomics field and is explicitly based on market value and company growth,
as part of new growth theory. It therefore suffers from being directly at
odds with a model for capturing hidden culture and for culture that might
pertain to other disciplines and fields. There is a sense that Gertler’s work
does not take us much further in recognising and applying hidden culture
in practice and is nothing more than a conceptual exegesis. While culture
scholars may relate to the desire to create a recursive loop which allows the
public to feed back to cultural producers to democratise the creation pro-
cess, it is arguably at this point when knowledge management and culture
literature diverge. Johnson, Lorenz, and Lundvall describe “epistemic
communities” which form “local codes” to make communication inter-
30 L. PARSONS AND R. GRANGER
nally more efficient but keep outsiders at arm’s length (2002, p. 251).
Cultural theorists must acknowledge that outside of the capitalist para-
digm, some holders of knowledge do not want to reproduce or share their
knowledge, for fear of it being appropriated, watered down, or lost, thus
losing meaning.
It is, therefore, useful now to look at some ‘hidden’ cultural forms, to
consider what attributes they share in order to reach a more meaningful
definition of hidden culture.
value and legitimise aesthetic and cultural practices” (ibid.). This also
relates to the ease of codification and transfer of knowledge between dom-
inant groups and how certain tacit knowledge comes to be a tool for
exclusion for marginalised groups who do not share the context necessary
to understand. This may mean that the favour afforded to certain cultural
forms may actively disempower, subjugate, or marginalise non-dominant
groups and render them and their activities ‘hidden’.
Current iterations of cultural policy have been criticised for a dominant
discourse of celebration, failing to acknowledge dualities in which certain
groups benefit from policy initiatives while others suffer, or areas in which
community interests have not been served (Belfiore 2018; McGuigan
2006). Belfiore (2018) uses the example of the television programme My
Big Fat Gypsy Wedding to demonstrate how a single cultural object can
become a carrier of both positive and negative value, depending on power
structures: a profitable export model and diversity awards allow the non-
GRT producers to gain further social and economic capital. However, the
effects on GRT businesses and wider perception of the community have
diminished both material and symbolic power for the community. This
raises the question of the authenticity of cultural products when they con-
cern a marginalised group but are not produced by said group.
Considering products further, Oakley and O’Brien (2016) observe that
cultural products matter because they ‘shape how we understand ourselves
and our society’ and thus the question of who gets to make cultural prod-
ucts is a profoundly relevant one. In this sense, products can be read to
incorporate the object, activity, or rite of our definition of culture, but the
word itself has broader notions of economic wealth. A pattern in which
the privileged are almost exclusively able to allocate value in the cultural
sphere means that programming and making may become a feedback
loop, potentially excluding audiences from cultural activity, as reflected in
the downturn of cultural participation referenced in the Warwick
Commission report (Neelands et al. 2015), creating a recursive cycle of
apathy. Cultural production from an unrepresentative group of producers
may reinforce the disenfranchisement of certain groups. The appropria-
tion by dominant groups of cultural production associated with minorities
often changes or dilutes the meanings of important signifiers, becoming
“part of an ideological process that designates non-white groups as infe-
rior” (Hesmondhalgh and Saha 2013, p. 184). This is also a process
through which cultural forms lose their ‘authentic value’ (Throsby 2001).
32 L. PARSONS AND R. GRANGER
2010, p. 486). While the rich intertextual readings of popular culture and
subcultures in theory counter this stance (Hebdige 1991; Hall 1993;
McRobbie 1994), certain areas of mainstream culture embrace their divi-
sive nature. The term ‘low’ culture is problematic as perspective may vary
along lines of education, class, race, and gender, amongst other factors.
Hunt describes low culture as a product of “permissive populism”, which
is characterised by its resistance to rehabilitation and deification of “the
good-bad object” (Hunt 1998, p. 18). This category might include cul-
tural objects which are considered kitsch, camp, or tasteless. These may
remain hidden as their symbolic meaning is not easily codified in light of
widely held values.
Remaining hidden can become part of what gives subcultures legiti-
macy. In Notes on Camp (Sontag 1964), Susan Sontag discusses her con-
flicting feelings about camp culture: “I am strongly drawn to Camp, and
almost as strongly offended by it”, while noting that this intrigue stems
from the historical position of camp as hidden: “to talk about camp is to
therefore betray it”. In this sense we see that some cultural forms benefit
from their invisibility: in subsequent years, camp has been embraced, but
early proponents of the culture needed to avoid prosecution and persecu-
tion to pass on the embodied meaning in its associated practices. On sub-
cultures, Hebdige mirrors Seremetakis (1994) on material cultures in
noting that the meaning of subculture is always in dispute, as “the tensions
between dominant and subordinate groups can be found reflected in the
surfaces of subculture” (Hebdige 1991, p. 2), showing how subcultures
may shift between visibility and legitimacy depending on wider social con-
texts. Fiske, on the other hand, frames subcultures as a genuine protest
movement, by which “the subordinate make their own culture out of the
resources and commodities provided by the dominant system” (Fiske
1989, p. 15).
However, while subcultures are deliberately transgressive, and charac-
terised by signifiers of a dual or fragmented identity to escape various
obligations and shed workaday identities (Chaney and Goulding 2016), to
participate in subcultures often requires ‘extraordinary consumption’,
such as attendance at costly festivals, purchase of specific items of dress,
and other visual signifiers. Subcultural signifiers such as dress are signifiers
of ‘extraordinary selves’ but also remain a culture of conformity and com-
monality and can bestow a certain anonymity. They can deceive, mislead,
or, alternatively, reveal more than they hide as representations of a tran-
2 PROBLEMATISING HIDDEN CULTURE 35
The model also seeks to articulate cultural forms which are identifiers
for communities and individuals. Methods might usefully foreground
objects, which participants may not consider significant out of context,
but are central to certain experiences, and by exploring the role of place in
everyday practice. To elicit suitably rich case study data in uncovering both
tacit knowledge and the spatial-relational aspects of hidden culture,
research may then draw upon methods including sensory readings of the
city (e.g. Degen and Rose 2012), phenomenological readings of material
cultural forms (e.g. Lerpiniere 2013), walking methods (e.g. de Certeau
1984; Mould 2015), phenomenological walking methods (e.g. Kusenbach
2003), ethnography, interviews, and photo elicitation (e.g. Harper 2002).
References
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42 L. PARSONS AND R. GRANGER
Pinky Bazaz
Introduction
This chapter considers the value worth of skills/training in cultural and
creative sectors. Specifically, it considers the personal and societal value
of creative degrees, which have come under intense public scrutiny in
recent years as part of a changing public attitude to higher education.
In the UK, perceptions of value in higher education are also framed
within a wider context of debate about value for money from public
expenditure, returns on investment from personal financing of educa-
tion, and the utility of degrees within the wider society and economy
(Last 2017). Reviewing what value means in the context of creative
degrees therefore comes at a time of wider transformation of higher
education, continued paradigmatic shifts in central government policy
and changing attitudes to widening participation from society, much of
which have been shaped by the media. Within this operating context in
the UK have come institutional changes in universities, most notably,
P. Bazaz (*)
Nottingham Trent University, Nottingham, UK
e-mail: pinky.bazaz@ntu.ac.uk
1
GVA is the value of all goods and services produced in an economy less intermediate
consumption.
50 P. BAZAZ
higher wages (Gabe 2011), and whether this can produce adverse ‘dynam-
ics of stardom’ for some individuals in a company (Currid-Halkett 2015),
profound labour market inequalities between demographic groups
(Menger 2015) and diseconomies in companies through sunk costs
(Bakker 2015), which create long-term impacts beyond the cre-
ative rhetoric.
Lee (2014) makes the point that one of the key drivers of the growth
of the UK creative industries is an educated population who place value
on cultural goods. Through this, he argues, the creative sector can foster
growth in ancillary sectors; effectively equating production with con-
sumption and creating a Keynesian demand management approach to the
burgeoning creative economy. Following this logic, there is an obvious
interplay between educational levels of creative sector employees, diver-
sity within the industry (including widening participation), and the
growth trajectory of the economy. However, despite diversity often being
cited as a key attributor to economic competitiveness within the creative
industries, this is yet to reflect the socio-economic composition of the
creative workforce (Granger 2017), university attainment or career devel-
opment (Hunt et al. 2015; Cousin and Cureton 2012). Thinking specifi-
cally about design, it is interesting to note that whilst the design economy
employs an above-average number of BAME individuals (13% compared
to 11% for the UK—Benton et al. 2018), the statistics amount to a sad
indictment of the creative and cultural economy of the UK. Commenting
on differential degree attainment in the UK between BAME and white
students, the vice chancellor of Kingston framed “the great hidden shame
of the higher education system” (Ross et al. 2018, p. 104), whilst Arts
Council England concede that a below national average representation of
BAME employees in the arts was pivotal in the decision to link diversity
of arts organisations to continued funding through the ACE portfolio
(Balzagette 2014).
creativity, skill and talent” who have the potential to “create wealth and
jobs through developing intellectual property” (DCMS 2010, p. 1), the
process and place of nurturing talent, in this case the higher educational
institutions (HEIs) should take ownership for developing industry ready
individuals. Comparably this supports the expectation that design and cre-
ative sector employees need to have a formal education at degree level or
higher, demonstrating a formal degree stills hold value within the creative
sector. There are unique skills developed during the higher educational
experience alongside the awarded qualification, which often are intangi-
ble. The softer skills such as critical thinking, problem-solving, social skills
and interactions are some of the sought-after and derisible skills for the
future of work (see Nesta 2017; Benton et al. 2018; Dean 2015). The
report published by the Department of Digital, Culture, Media and Sport
(DCMS 2016) also shows the combined DCMS sectors employ an equal
amount of degree and non-degree holders; however, the employment of
degree holders is above that of the UK average. Therefore, there is an
implied value of holding a formal degree education within the creative
sector. To which, one notes the (creative) Industry’s demand for ‘innova-
tive thinkers’ who are able to problem-solve, which is a core skill in cre-
ative (higher) education. This further implies HEIs are fundamental to
help shape the success of the BAME students within the creative industry.
% of Good Honours
UK Domiciled First Degree Qualifiers
100.0
90.0
80.0
70.0
60.0
50.0
40.0
30.0
20.0
10.0
0.0
2003/0 2004/0 2005/0 2006/0 2007/0 2008/0 2009/1 2010/1 2011/1 2012/1 2013/1
4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4
white % 63.1 63.8 64.7 65.5 66.4 67.2 67.9 69.5 71.5 73.2 75.6
bme % 45.9 46.0 45.9 46.9 48.1 49.2 49.3 51.1 53.8 57.1 60.4
Gap 17.2 17.8 18.8 18.6 18.3 18.0 18.6 18.4 17.7 16.1 15.2
critical inquiry which is now highly attractive to employers who are look-
ing for graduates who are prepared “to be agile and adaptable, with the
right mind-set of lifelong learning” (Fearn 2008, p. 17).
The master and apprentice approach still has significance for Generation
Z learners who as previously noted by Seemiller and Grace prefer to be
taught through observation and application. However, it also draws atten-
tion to who the ‘master’ or teacher is and emphasises the issue of fair
representation of the staff within HEIs. According to the ECU in
2015–2016 only 8.9% of UK staff and 28.3% of non-UK staff were from
a BAME background (ECU 2017). In contrast the report published by
the Department of Digital, Culture, Media and Sport (DCMS 2016)
showed in 2016, BAME employees made up 11% of the 32,422 people
working in the creative industries, which is an increase of 5.8 percentage
points from the position in 2015. Cautiously, one might surmise that the
creative sector has made progress in terms of BAME representation. The
lack of representation within Higher Education is further perpetuated by
the fact that only 0.6% of UK professors are black (ECU 2017) and
although as the literature suggests the ‘diversity deficit’ does not have
direct causal link to student outcomes (HEFCE 2015) the lack of promi-
nent role models or in some cases the invisible BAME role models further
highlights the challenges faced within the academic sector. In an environ-
ment of white leadership, higher educational environments can look to
building a representative curriculum as an intrinsic way of adding/creat-
ing value for students of both white and minority backgrounds. In fact, it
is imperative to create an inclusive teaching environment, which fosters
key skills of collaboration, understanding difference and designing beyond
one’s self. This is supported by Singh’s (2009) research, which explains
that learning through methods that are comfortable and reflective of self
contribute to student attainment and a sense of belonging. He found that
academics have a considerable amount of influence in creating a truly
reflective and diverse curriculum. This then further accentuates that if
design environment is culturally inclusive through staff representation and
reflective contents it enables students from BAME backgrounds to feel
represented, to see visible role models and aspire to be part of the creative
industries. As Fearn (2008) explains students expect to learn through
methods they are comfortable with, such as those familiar to self. This
presents a huge barrier for academic staff, who are not necessarily r eflective
of the student body or trained to a level where BAME individuals are fully
understood.
3 DEFINING EXCELLENCE: VALUE IN CREATIVE DEGREES 57
2
Faculties of Business and Law, Health and Life Sciences, Arts, Design and Humanities
and Faculty of Technology.
3 DEFINING EXCELLENCE: VALUE IN CREATIVE DEGREES 59
These five themes might also be viewed as softer aspects of the educa-
tional experience and potentially where the intangible value is created. As
shown in Fig. 3.2, elements which BAME students highlighted as action
points are arguably different to degree measures. The importance of these
themes highlights measured metric of the educational experience, such as
the TEF or league tables are not the key motivators or the most influential
for a BAME individual’s higher educational experience. In this case 45% of
all references throughout the event related to BAME students’ relation-
ships on campus. In particular students called for greater representation in
the role models available. But as can be seen from the findings and
literature, making positive changes in these areas to create a more inclusive
university experience could become a method to change the perceived
value of degrees.
Fig. 3.2 Values attributed to degrees, student perspective vs. higher educational
measures
60 P. BAZAZ
value of lifelong learning and the key skills developed. These are the skills
which are developed during education and demanded from the creative
industry and beyond. In turn this creates a closed value loop, which cele-
brates diversity and sits as the base of an interchangeable world which has
flexibility to respond to the needs of a changing student body and require-
ments of a progressive digital world.
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3 DEFINING EXCELLENCE: VALUE IN CREATIVE DEGREES 65
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CHAPTER 4
Jennie Jordan and Ruth Jindal
Introduction
Value in the arts world is a complex area. This chapter raises the question
of value in the context of culture, cultural policy and cultural democracy.
It is a pertinent question in the UK as, since the financial crisis of
2007–2008, governmental funding policies have acted to narrow and
reduce direct state subsidy for the arts, introducing policies to promote
private philanthropy as an alternative. This paradigm shift reimagined cul-
tural services, previously conceived as merit goods similar to educational
provision, as private and market services (Wu 2003). Definitions of merit
depend on non-financial value judgements, or ‘taste’ in the case of culture.
Bourdieu (1984 [1979]) argued taste was socially constructed and used to
reinforce social hierarchies. Who decides whether opera is worth more
than graffiti art? Throsby (2001) distinguished between economic defini-
tions of value, which he considered individualised, and cultural concep-
tions of value, which he argued were inherently social. This dichotomy
points to a tension at the heart of a public cultural policy that aims to
Culture, as it has been, can be the preserve of the privileged few or instead, it
can be the building block that strengthens our democracy, celebrated as a basic
human right, helping to create a world where all people are free to enjoy the
benefits of self-expression, access to resources and community. (Movement for
Cultural Democracy 2018)
Leadership for the Future
Cultivate’s first action was to host a conference, Please Give Generously: the
art of philanthropy, in April 2011 focused on fundraising and philanthropy.
The keynote speaker was Dame Stephanie Shirley, the UK’s founding
Ambassador for Philanthropy and a philanthropist committed to giving
away her personal fortune during her lifetime. Arts managers heard about
the way philanthropists want to be approached and how organisations
could align their core activities to be more attractive to individual givers.
Dame Stephanie was adamant: ‘philanthropy in the area of arts and culture
is to complement government funding, not act as a substitute for it’ and
that ‘giving is a social and cultural activity not merely a financial transac-
tion’. However, she also commented, to audible gasps in the room, “I’m
the same as most philanthropists in that I give, and only give, to projects
and organisations on a reciprocal basis. By which I mean that my satisfac-
tion exactly repays my gift”. So, while philanthropic donation was not a
direct financial investment in the way sponsorship is, there was an
4 PROBLEMATISING PHILANTHROPY IN THE UK CULTURAL SECTOR 73
and the value system institutionalised in the UK’s charitable sector were
fundamentally different. Figure 4.1 summarises the British values assimi-
lated within each funding stream.
While Hunt (2010) may not have advocated wholesale US models,
these were the cognate examples available and the LftF programme
aimed—among other leadership training—to develop capacity for philan-
thropic giving in a UK context. The Cycle model conceived of arts organ-
isations as part of communities of place or interest with board membership
being awarded to community members who donated or sourced the most
income. Although Kaiser felt the phrase misrepresented a relationship
between boards and cultural organisations which should be about the art
not money, a model commonly known as ‘give, get or get off’, and this
conception appeared to have more traction than the programme organis-
ers anticipated. Charity governance in the UK had traditionally seen trust-
ees’ role as combining the voice of the beneficiary community and
custodianship of the organisation’s values, making a contribution though
their expertise rather than financially. Fundraising was a function of the
executive rather than trustees. Private giving as a means of maintaining
funding, therefore, required fundamental shifts in the way arts organisa-
tions conceived of their value. Rather than socialised merit goods to
I haven’t got any money. No one I know has got any money. If that’s what the
board is for, then I don’t know why I’m here…
I was asked to join the board because I had some experience in charity manage-
ment. I was asked to commit time and expertise, there was no expectation of
giving money. I do give money to charity—but I give to charities I can’t help in
other ways. Now every board meeting I feel pressured to either donate myself or
start hassling my friends and family. I feel my skills and experience are no lon-
ger valued, so have decided to resign. I am worried, though, that boards will
soon be full of people who are there because they’ve bought their place, not people
who know about the art form, or can speak for the beneficiary community.
This trustee clearly felt personally uncomfortable about the new role
for trustees advocated by the programme. She also expressed concern
about the potential narrowing of representation if board membership was
predicated on a trustee’s financial commitment rather than a sense of
4 PROBLEMATISING PHILANTHROPY IN THE UK CULTURAL SECTOR 77
Where before when we were discussing our plans, it was all about the artistic
ideas and what audiences the shows were for, now the first thing we talk about
is whether or not the show is commercial or if anyone can think of a sponsor or
donor who might be interested. If we don’t think a show will break even and we
can’t get it funded in advance, we have to cut it from the programme. It’s too
risky now.
This is the area in which the programme has had the most transformational
effect […] I think we have changed the culture at [the organisation] to ensure
all staff feel that individual giving is part of the future and that we cannot rely
on the campaign office to do this for us. (DeVos Institute of Arts Management,
November 2016, p. 36)
We have always operated a mixed funding model in our six years as a charity,
but more acutely than ever we need to be proactive in an approach that sees the
sources of that funding change dramatically. One thing that is really clear now
to me and my team is that we have to change the platform upon which we com-
municate our value to our place and people.
This was not the case for smaller, less well-resourced participants. When
asked at the end of the two-year programme about how their plans for
fundraising from individuals were, three replied:
“The short answer to this is that we are still formulating our approach.”
“We are still in the research phase.”
“This area is still in development.”
For the majority, there had been some change in attitudes and attempts
to cultivate philanthropic donors. However, if judged on actual money
raised, Leadership for the Future could claim little success.
Progress throughout the programme was captured using a self-
assessment survey for organisations to reflect on growth in artistic plan-
ning, marketing, strategic planning, board development and engagement,
fundraising and management. Data from 16 participants who completed
4 PROBLEMATISING PHILANTHROPY IN THE UK CULTURAL SECTOR 79
these audits formed the basis of the programme’s evaluation for Arts
Council (DeVos Institute of Arts Management, November 2016).
The programme claimed to have contributed to an aggregate increase
of 10 per cent from individual donors and corporate sponsors and earned
income. Individual giving increased by £30,777 and corporate sponsor-
ship by £79,243. At the same time, public funding decreased by £387,442,
leaving a fundraising gap of £277,422 across the 16 organisations that
completed the audit. In fact, eight organisations reported no contribu-
tions from individuals, indicating disparities between those with resources
such as customer databases or venues to invite potential donors to and
capacity such as staffing or fundraising expertise, and those without.
Earned income such as selling tickets and corporate hires of venues
increased by a lower percentage, just 7 per cent, but this amounted to
£287,545, filling the funding gap caused by the reduction in public sub-
sidy and leaving a net gain of £10,123 (ibid.). The relative effectiveness of
trading points to arts organisations’ comparative comfort with entrepre-
neurial approaches, evidence perhaps of the success of policies of the 1980s
in embedding market values within the sector.
The evaluation highlighted board development, which it defined as
shifting the culture of boards from advisory governance to philanthropic
ownership as the “greatest remaining challenge” (ibid., p. 2). Only two of
the participating organisations had received donations from board mem-
bers, despite the focus on this throughout the programme. The organisa-
tions themselves identified lack of financial and human resources to
implement fundraising strategies and the East Midlands region’s relative
lack of philanthropic donors as their primary barriers.
other arts organisations did not have the luxury of a sales force or comput-
erised customer relationship management system. Some were community
arts organisations working with disadvantaged groups; others were tour-
ing companies so might visit a town only once every couple of years mak-
ing it difficult to build relationships. Venues, by contrast, had historically
received more investment and had box office systems they could mine to
find potential donors.
The Arts Council itself emerged as a structural problem. One LftF par-
ticipant manager said the first thing potential donors asked was, “have you
asked the Arts Council?” Similarly, some potential donors who wanted to
support the arts did not have the relevant connections or felt unsure how
to assess quality so approached the Arts Council for advice. As the sole
democratic body with primary responsibility for culture between 1946
and 1992 when the Department for National Heritage was established,
the Arts Council is well known even outside the sector. Its role was per-
ceived as part of the welfare state and it was, therefore, the first point of
call for arts considered merit goods. Sponsorship and philanthropy were
both sold as policies to diversify funding so should, in theory, have weak-
ened the Arts Council’s hegemonic role. However, its influence proved
stronger than Arts and Business, which was closed as an independent
organisation in 2011. There was no attempt to set up a similar dating
agency for philanthropists, leaving the task of changing societal attitudes
as to whether the arts are a suitable recipient for charitable giving to indi-
vidual arts organisations themselves. As the first Catalyst match-funding
programme had a £12 million underspend and was consequently signifi-
cantly scaled back in 2015, it appears cultural differences between the US
and the UK were too embedded to be overcome in this way, certainly so
far (Richens 2015).
Conclusions
This chapter opened by asking if shifting resource dependency from the
state to individuals or corporations reduced culture’s social role and what
the consequences for cultural democracy might be if it did. Evidence from
the Leadership for the Future programme indicated there is a significant, if
largely unstated, difference in how the arts are perceived between the UK
and the US. In the UK, the arts have traditionally been publically funded
as merit goods and have developed values aligned with public policies such
as promotion of equitable access. In America a culture has developed
82 J. JORDAN AND R. JINDAL
trustees expressed significant unease at the ‘give, get, get off’ model. One
interviewee had, in fact, decided to get off, feeling her expertise was no
longer valued by an organisation she had been involved with for a decade.
Another was concerned about the narrowing effect such expectations
would have on who could participate as board members, while a third
discussed the pressure to evaluate the organisation’s programme in terms
of financial risk rather than artistic quality.
This policy was implemented quickly at a time of economic crisis and
consequently has been subject to little public debate. Seven years in, some
consequences are becoming visible. However, the impact of rebalancing
public, private and corporate funding for the arts on geographical and
social equity, and the relative importance of individual economic and
socialised cultural values, are significant areas ripe for further research.
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CHAPTER 5
Claire Lerpiniere
Introduction
This chapter explores the notion of value within the context of the process
and products of textile design, and to some extent the transformative pro-
cess implied through production. This provides an invaluable lens for
exploring the unique qualities and types of value that textile designers
engage with, especially where pure designs are militated by the need to
develop solutions for tackling industrial and societal issues such as envi-
ronmental sustainability. These values are framed here as forms of capital
which are conceptual, cultural and material, forms which a textile designer
draws upon and imbues with their own expertise to create intellectual
capital in terms of ideas, qualities and design. In the context of sustain-
ability, the future economic, ecological and human sustainability of the
global textiles industry requires the full utilisation of the textile designer’s
intellectual capital.
The term ‘textile’ is used throughout this chapter, rather than ‘fabric’
or ‘cloth’, as both ‘textile design’ and ‘textiles’ can not only represent the
C. Lerpiniere (*)
De Montfort University, Leicester, UK
e-mail: clerpiniere@dmu.ac.uk
Sustainability
Sustainability in the textile design context relates to an emerging and
urgent awareness of the effect of human activities on the human and eco-
logical environment, and is discussed within this chapter in relation to the
fashion industry. De Montfort University’s sustained approach to impact
is key to the university’s work as articulated in its commitment to public
good and its selection as a designated ‘hub’ for achieving (SDG 16) the
United Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)—the first uni-
versity to be chosen as such.1 In the context of textiles, sustainability
relates to the use of environmentally sustainable materials and processes,
as well as disrupting current models of manufacturing towards more
1
De Montfort University is a hub for Goal 16, ‘Peace, Justice, and Strong Institutions’,
and has been asked to take the lead in engaging universities across the globe in its work to
support refugees.
5 VALUE DEFINITION IN SUSTAINABLE (TEXTILES) PRODUCTION… 87
et al. 2018). These textile design approaches are inherently imbued with
tacit cultural or conceptual value, which the designer selects or capitalises
upon in order to create a relevant and useful textile for product develop-
ment and product enhancement, thus creating market capital and value.
The cachet of a luxury woven cashmere or couture embroidery on light-
weight silk enhances the appearance and enjoyment a garment conveys
and adds value through material and conceptual value, and aesthetic val-
ues, to both an individual garment and the fashion brand as a whole.
position (as discussed in Chap. 6), their ethical values or principles they
wish to communicate via their clothing through an alignment with a
brand, such as People Tree or Birdsong. Large corporations now realise
that sustainable and responsible production form part of the ethical and
brand values they must communicate, and that engaging with sustainable
practices ‘protect and augment’ their reputations, particularly with
younger consumers (Fletcher 2014, p. xv).
The material value embodied within the textile designer arises through
varied steps, gained through a lengthy process of education in design
research, development and manufacturing techniques. However, much of
this knowledge remains tacit. This is partly due to a historical bias towards
the view that other forms of design and material culture are viewed as
rigorous and befitting academic study, but fashion and textiles have had an
‘image problem’, which has not been acknowledged widely within the
discourse (Tseelon 2001, p. 435) but is slowly improving.
The global challenges posed by the need to redesign the fashion and
textiles industry will require not only technical and design knowledge but
an understanding of how to situate fashion and textiles within theoreti-
cally informed positions. Firstly, through the textile designer’s under-
standing of the structures, processes and properties of fibres and fabrics,
and their surface decorative or performance treatments, but also through
their awareness of the potential for manipulation and creation into prod-
ucts and outcomes. This expertise will become increasingly key as a type of
tacit knowledge required in order develop marketable solutions to press-
ing environmental issues in relation to textiles; such as the finite nature of
resources, issues around energy consumption and climate change, and the
human or social impacts of fashion production on its workers. The textile
designer’s power is in their sourcing and development of fibres into mate-
rials for industry, particularly fashion, and their selection of processing
techniques, such as dye classes or the materials used in embellishments.
Textile designers are loci for key selection points and sourcing of materials
within the fashion supply chain, and as such, they are a ‘starting point for
change’ (Fletcher 2014, p. 7). How fibres and fabrics are created and
sourced will become an increasing area of focus for brands, manufacturers
and consumers expressing their ethical positions, and this requires textile
designers who can use their particular skill sets and competencies to
respond to this.
5 VALUE DEFINITION IN SUSTAINABLE (TEXTILES) PRODUCTION… 91
over another, particularly with regard to the tactile, sensory feeling of the
textiles within a garment (DeLong et al. 2012).
Research within the aesthetic or design historical domains of textiles
explores the context which arises through understanding a textile’s history
or use, including decoding and articulating their social, cultural, political
and geographic origins that textile can embody. Both approaches, scien-
tific or design historical, can research and discuss key discourses around
textiles as artefacts of material culture, whereby the materiality of the tex-
tile is articulated through varied conceptual frameworks which are part of
the vocabulary of textile design. Though these values attributed to textiles
describe the social agency their use creates for anthropologists and design
historians researching materiality and the ways in which textiles and dress
create a sense of identity across global cultures, understanding this funda-
mentally human approach to textiles is key to tackling the huge disruption
and social impacts of fast fashion and the unsustainable nature of the
industry as it is currently constructed. Key to this is understanding textiles
as an embodied ‘situated bodily experience’ (Entwistle 2000, p. 5). This is
the case whether wearing soft pyjamas at the end of a day or dressing in a
formal gown for a public event.
Through the experience of wearing clothing, sitting on upholstered
furniture, or lying under a soft blanket, textiles create a sense of space
through their function as a ‘second skin, which prodigiously enhances our
pleasure in the first’ (Graves 2002, p. 49). This embodied, interactive
experience can lead to the creation of a personal relationship between a
textile experience and an individual. This relationship first arises through
the processes of making, which arise through what has been described as
‘textile thinking’, a distinct subset of ‘design thinking’ (Kane and Philpott
2013). Such thinking, which is an emerging body of knowledge within the
field, slowly following hundreds of years of practice, creates ‘an embodied
relationship with materials, characteristic of making, has the effect of acti-
vating specific kinds of thinking’ (Pajaczkowska 2016, p. 79).
This type of tacit knowledge has been proposed as occurring through
nine forms within the cultures of textiles, creating a ‘challenge for the
traditional distinctions between the technical skills of making and the
intellectual skills of understanding, knowing and authoring’. These forms,
‘felting, spinning, stitching, knotting/knitting, weaving, plaiting, drap-
ing, cutting and styling’ (Pajaczkowska 2016, p. 80) are phrased in such a
way to focus on the ‘verbs’ of textile design, rather than the ‘artefacts’ or
‘nouns’ created by the processes and techniques, and therefore imply value
5 VALUE DEFINITION IN SUSTAINABLE (TEXTILES) PRODUCTION… 95
The concept of a new era of human intervention on the planet has been
proposed, as a means to consider how humans have entered planetary and
geological timeframes. As commonly known, geological time is divided
into epochs which measure shifts in structures and shapes, such as the
Jurassic or Cetaceous periods. The current era, the Holocene, has been
suggested as being superseded by another, more human-centric epoch,
which has been proposed as the ‘Anthropocene’. Though this remains a
concept which is still under current debate by geologists, its use has
entered common parlance around sustainable futures, and several dates
which mark the beginning of this new era have been proposed, most in
alignment of the date with the ‘Great Acceleration’ in human resource
use, and corresponding increases in pollution and greenhouse gas emis-
sions, which puts the date within the second half of the twentieth century
(Lewis and Maslin 2015a, b; Steffen et al. 2011).
The Anthropocene is defined as a period whereby humans are having
an unparalleled effect on the planet’s environment, geology and biological
systems, whereby ‘humankind has become a global geological force in its
own right’ (Steffen et al. 2011, p. 843). The concept of Anthropocene has
the potential to galvanise and direct thought towards the potentially cata-
strophic consequences of reaching the limits of the earth’s finite resources.
As Lewis and Maslin note:
5 VALUE DEFINITION IN SUSTAINABLE (TEXTILES) PRODUCTION… 97
To a large extent the future of the only place where life is known to exist is
being determined by the actions of humans. Yet, the power that humans
wield is unlike any other force of nature, because it is reflexive and therefore
can be used, withdrawn or modified. More wide-spread recognition that
human actions are driving far-reaching changes to the life-supporting infra-
structure of Earth may well have increasing philosophical, social, economic
and political implications over the coming decades. (Lewis and Maslin
2015a, p. 178)
Transition Design
Technology and innovation have been discussed in the context of the
value they contribute to textile design, and how a technological focus
strives to produce novelty and innovative solutions to design problems. In
sociological and ethnographic approaches to textiles, an artefact is posi-
tioned as a meme of global culture, whereby the textile enables people to
socially engage and develop ‘domains of meaning’ through the exchange
and consumption of a textile, displaying and enforcing social hierarchies
and affiliations through dress and adornment (Schneider and Weiner
1989, p. 3). These domains of meaning increasingly also relate to the
domains of value, particularly brand values, which a fashion brand demon-
strates, and which consumers align themselves with. The creative thinking
and skills which textile designers specifically possess have been proposed as
98 C. LERPINIERE
Emotional Design
As Donald Norman suggests in his seminal work (2004), feeding user
experience back into the design process is key not only for improving the
design and function of pieces but also for eliciting an emotional response
to designed objects and understanding how brand loyalty arises. A com-
mon view in emotional design research is that success in design practice is
limited within paradigms of design research in which the world of objects
is viewed as separate to the world of people, rather than as an intercon-
nected mode of existence (Norman 2004; Aldrich 2004, p. 368). Within
this field, holistic design tools that generate and measure experiential and
sensory data have been developed, as a means for understanding the pro-
cesses within the cycle of consumption: ‘buying, using and owning prod-
ucts’ (Desmet et al. 2009, p. 1).
Within textile and fashion design, emotional design methods are less
common, though increasingly used within smart textiles applications and
industrial textile design (see Bang 2009; Baurley et al. 2007). Textiles can
become ‘repositories of deeply valued personal memories’ (Taylor 2002),
and many emotional designers situate design theories within phenomeno-
logical philosophy in order to describe processes of design and design
evaluation via embodied, affective frameworks. Transition design teams
can capitalise on such knowledge, particularly with regard to textiles and
fashion, to encourage a ‘slow fashion’ consumption of garments, new
models of ownership, such as renting and returning garments and design
activist events, which stage ‘sewing circles’ of repair and exchange of gar-
ments, rather than buy and discard models (Fletcher 2018) for value cre-
ation and intellectual capital exchange.
Phenomenology
Another transition design concept, ‘Goethean Science and Phenomenology’
(Irwin et al. 2015a, p. 4), understands the part in relation to its whole, in
common with phenomenological theory and practice, looking at growth,
5 VALUE DEFINITION IN SUSTAINABLE (TEXTILES) PRODUCTION… 101
Conclusion
As has been discussed in this chapter, textile design is going through a
period of disruption and transition, which it is argued will need to change
further to address wider issues of sustainability. Within this context,
102 C. LERPINIERE
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5 VALUE DEFINITION IN SUSTAINABLE (TEXTILES) PRODUCTION… 107
Malika Kraamer
Introduction
Today the majority of the Ghanaian economic, political and aristocratic
elites wear the latest fashion in colourful Kente, the hand-woven rayon or
cotton cloth often full of motifs. When the Asantehene, king of the Asante
made a historical visit and met the Okyehene, king of the Akyem on 23
August 2018, it was done so with one of the most lavish displays of Kente.
Kente, as the most valuable cloth from Ghana, is the primary focus of this
chapter, which examines the embodiment of cultural value in a particular
kind of textiles and the way in which the societal worth is expressed and
imbued within the cloths. The chapter considers in particular the historical
and, to some extent, fashion significance of these cloths, as well as the
complexity of their role as an indicator of national, regional West African
and black diaspora identities and (competing) ethnicities.
Economic and cultural value is a socially constructed phenomenon. For
example, prices of cultural goods are not a direct measure of value; at best
M. Kraamer (*)
Research and Collection, MARKK (Museum am Rothenbaum),
Rothenbaumchaussee, Hamburg, Germany
e-mail: malika.kraamer@markk-hamburg.de
this part of the world. It is a high-status cloth that gives work to hundreds
of weavers, plays a large role in regional, national and pan-African identi-
ties, and is exported in large quantities to other parts of (West) Africa,
Europe and especially to the United States where African Americans have
been using Kente in growing numbers in the last fifty years.
Kente is often divided between Asante and Ewe textiles, dividing the
cloth along ethnic categories. However, two of the three main weaving
centres are in the Ewe-speaking region, but the aesthetic and social inter-
relationships between all three centres are both independent and interde-
pendent and historically co-evolved. The main three weaving centres are
found in (1) several villages around Kumasi, the capital of the former
Asante Kingdom, including Bonwire and Adanwomase in the Ashanti
Region, in the middle of Ghana1; (2) villages in the Agotime area, includ-
ing Agotime-Kpetoe, Agotime-Abenyirase and Agotime-Akpokofe, form-
ing part of the Volta Region in Ghana; and (3) many villages in the
southern Volta Region, especially along the Keta lagoon, including
Agbozume and Anlo-Afiadenyigba, along the eastern coast of Ghana.
I use Asante to refer to the Asante State and the Asante ethnic group, a subgroup of the
1
Akan, and Ashanti to refer to the administrative Ashanti Region in contemporary Ghana.
112 M. KRAAMER
of all colours. The artists unravelled them so that they obtained large quanti-
ties of woollen and silk threads which they mixed with their cotton and got
many colours. (Rømer 1760 [2000], p. 36)
Cloth Use
At many civic, personal and ceremonial occasions, Kente is worn by many
people, with festivals being notable occasions (see Fig. 6.1). Whilst some
festivals are historical, dating back to at least the seventeenth century, oth-
ers are newly established like the late twentieth century initiated Kente
Fig. 6.2 Weaver Andrus Sosu in his loom while speaking to a customer in
Agortorme (upper part of the Keta lagoon in the coastal area of the Volta Region).
(©Photograph by Malika Kraamer, Agortorme (Ghana), 2018)
Fig. 6.3 Women and men exchanging greetings at the 2018 Agbamevorza, the
Kente Festival, in Agotime-Kpetoe (Volta Region). Some women wear two uncut
wrappers; others are dressed in a Kente sawn into a kaba. Some men wear a bata-
kari and others wear a Kente cloth wrapped around the body. (©Photograph by
Malika Kraamer, Agotime-Kpetoe (Ghana), 2018)
also figures prominently in the worlds of politics, fashion and design (see
Kraamer 1996; Ross 1998). The wearing of Kente by African Americans
grew exponentially in the 1990s, only to decline in the twenty-first cen-
tury (Rabine 2002, p. 11). Using the wrappers as daily dress has been
uncommon since the late twentieth century. The only exceptions are some
women who may use an (old) wrapper in the village as a skirt or to carry a
child and many people in southern Ghana, wearing gowns made from
hand-woven strips, called batakari which originated from northern Ghana
(see Fig. 6.3), which has been fashionable from the 1990s onwards for
daily and occasional wear (Quarcoopome 1993, pp. 193–202; Kraamer
2005, p. 191).2
2
A batakari or fugu is the historical dress form of the north of Ghana.
6 A CLOTH TO WEAR: VALUE EMBODIED IN GHANAIAN TEXTILES 115
value. One might argue therefore that the cultural value of Kente in this
period and region was constructed from both a production and consump-
tion viewpoint; highly complex and entangled with royalty in one region,
while design innovations and conspicuous display in the entire area can
only be understood in the context of acquiring surplus wealth and new
goods facilitated by the slave trade and labour by enslaved people.
Economic Value
Economic value certainly played a pivotal role in historical wearing of
cloths, beyond the obvious royal exclusions, but the notion of economic
and monetary transactions needs to be contextualised by the characteris-
tics of time and place. When one speaks of ‘economic value’, it is not only
the issue of finding suitable proxies but of understanding the basis of trade
in Ghana until recently. Barter has been pervasive for several centuries and
has been the basis of paying for tributes in crops and goods, including
cloth. Cowries have been the main currency, but in many places of West
Africa, cloth strips were used as currency, as was the case north of the
Asante, which to some extent reflects the prestigious value of the cloth.
Johnson (1970) notes the use of ‘cowries3 as a currency, capable of adapta-
3
Cowries in use came either from the Maldive Islands or the East African Coast (Johnson
1970, pp. 17–18).
6 A CLOTH TO WEAR: VALUE EMBODIED IN GHANAIAN TEXTILES 117
tion to the specific needs of the West African trade’ (p. 17). They func-
tioned for centuries as currency before they lost their value with the
introduction of European currency and during subsequent periods of
inflation.
In contrast to the West, where textiles played a major role in industrial
transformation and in propelling the industrial revolution when produc-
tion moved from handloom to machine-powered loom (Zack-Williams
2002, p. 135), in West Africa, including Ghana, the colonial powers tried
not only to marginalise local manufacturing but also to subvert local cul-
tivation of cotton (Picton and Mack 1989, p. 31; Zack-Williams 2002,
p. 136). According to Zack-Williams, the production of raw materials in
West Africa in the colonial era ‘resulted in the stultified growth of manu-
facturing’ (2002, p. 136). In post-colonial time, the production of local
textiles continues to have a relatively high labour input in the production
process, in which most of the technological innovations (continue) to take
place in the absence of power devices (Zack-Williams 2002, pp. 136–137).
In the last few decades, mainly European and North American merchants
purchase items of cultural specificity, including Kente, to sell to ethnically
conscious consumers. These new merchant capitalists, by entering the
process after production, have no impact on the development of produc-
tion techniques, so that ‘the value of these items is premised precisely on
… the fact that they are handmade’ (Zack-Williams 2002, p. 143).
Changing Value
The value of Kente alters over time and in different social contexts. The
weaving of Kente is continuously changing, with many types of textiles
produced at any point in time. It is a practice handed down over centuries
and developing constantly as weavers incorporate, re-configure, adapt and
further develop elements of Kente and other textile traditions. Furthermore,
weavers continuously experiment with leftover materials, producing an
astonishing diversity of patterns and types of cloth. This continuously
changing tradition, which, as many African fashion systems, redefine the
tradition/modernity binary as ‘it was used by missionaries, colonialists
and anthropologists to oppose an Africa deemed traditional in the sense of
primitive and static to a modern Europe as transmitter of enlightened val-
ues’ (Rabine 2002, p. 10), is as much part of dress-as-fashion, with pro-
cesses of self-referential change, as dress to mark gender, class, status or
role in complex ways.
118 M. KRAAMER
Everyday Value
Whilst Kente thus far has been positioned as an exclusive cloth, others
might use plain-weave Kente, with the cloth providing intrinsic value for
special occasions, for example, a wedding, ‘the outdooring’ of a child or
the visit of an important person.4 The cutting of Kente to saw into a kaba,
a trend that only took off on a much wider scale in the twenty-first cen-
tury, is a clear demonstration of wealth. It means it adheres not only to the
last fashion in designs, although using older types of Kente is acceptable,
but also in the latest fashion in a kaba outfit as well as making a statement
that one can afford to cut into a Kente, even when that means it is not
possible to wear it anymore in the future, due to change in body shape.
Kente has also been used as wall hangings, tablecloths, placemats or
pieces of cloth on which to lay a corpse in state. Since the 1960s they have
also been transformed into many accessories, such as hats, shoes, jewellery
and ties, initially outside Ghana and Togo, but since the 1980s within
Ghana and, to a lesser extent Togo among the urban middle classes
(Kraamer 1996). In the United States individual Kente strips have become
especially popular as part of academic and liturgical robes, for example, as
part of a gown at graduation ceremonies (Kraamer 1996, p. 112; Ross
1998). The bulk of textiles remain, however, intended as wrappers for
men and women for the local and West African market.
In thinking about the implications of local patronage for the nature of
these textile traditions, one might ask about aesthetic and historical value.
As Picton (1992) notes: “Each tradition has its history, a history that must
take account of the nature of the tradition itself. Traditions vary enor-
mously in their creative expectations. Some are certainly conservative in
that the replication of existing forms is expected. Other traditions permit
and perhaps encourage exploration in form and medium; it is within such
traditions that we can expect to find innovative development. Even the
most conservative tradition is rarely static, however, and some paradoxi-
cally enable change by denying its existence” (p. 39). Local patronage,
through its tradition of expectations, is often stronger as a controller of
quality, yet at the same time it allows more for innovation within a tradi-
tion than would foreign demand. Foreign demand is often contaminated
by ideas of authenticity, hence fixing it ethnographically, in a recent past.
4
An ‘outdooring’ is the ceremony when a person, for instance a child, new initiate or new
chief, appears in public. It is often the end of a ritual and the most festive time of a ceremony.
It is an occasion that continues to be a common practice throughout southern Ghana.
6 A CLOTH TO WEAR: VALUE EMBODIED IN GHANAIAN TEXTILES 119
cially strong in the middle of the twentieth century, but it seems that since
then, there has been more of a process of fragmentation. There is no one
single textile that has been used by the whole Ewe group to portray an
Ewe identity, which belies a complex ethnic and linguistic history. Thus,
the boundaries of linguistic or ethnic groups are not coterminous with the
kinds of textile used on particular occasions. Wearers are more concerned
with enacting a certain social position and fashion statement within their
community than an ethnic identity through the use of these fabrics. This
is especially apparent during festivals. Most of the Ewe chiefs and queen
mothers put on bright, strongly colour-contrasting cloths preferably in a
newly woven non-figurative design. To further support this, nineteenth-
and twentieth-century photographic collections indicate that coastal
people on the Ivory, Gold and Slave Coast were using textiles produced in
southern Ghana and Togo (Kraamer 2005). Although the production
centres of the distinct traditions were (and to some extent still are) local-
ised, the use of these textiles was, and is, not confined to one particular
group. For example, since the 1800s, Ga and Baule chiefs have been using
both Asante and Ewe textiles, Krobo and Akan people also have been
using Ewe textiles, and textiles woven by Ewe and Asante weavers have
been used further away, including different groups in the Niger Delta of
Nigeria (Eicher and Erekosima 1987; Aronson 1982). The newest fashion
today among the urban and chiefly elite throughout southern Ghana is for
Kente influenced directly by cloth from western Nigeria. When Ewe weav-
ers moved back and forth between Ghana and Nigeria, since the early
1990s, they not only influenced Nigerian textiles but introduced new
techniques and designs into Kente when re-adapting to the Ghanaian mar-
ket on their return. Therefore, whilst it can be said that proximity of a
textile-producing centre has resulted in a predominant use of textiles from
that centre, the examples cited show that the distribution of cloth pro-
duced in a particular weaving centre is not confined by weavers’ and con-
sumers’ perceptions of ethnic identities.
Cloth has sometimes played a more direct role in marking a socio-
ethnic identity, as is the case in late nineteenth-century Yoruba dress, but
it can be argued that in the struggle for and emergence of new indepen-
dent African states, it played a greater role in nationalistic tendencies and
therefore marking a socio-political identity. At the end of the nineteenth
century Yoruba dress was a point of discussion amongst the Lagos intelli-
6 A CLOTH TO WEAR: VALUE EMBODIED IN GHANAIAN TEXTILES 121
gentsia in the context of colonial rule (Echeruo 1977) and this intellectual
activity ‘helped to constitute the early stages of “cultural work”’ (Peel
1989) in ‘realising a novel sense of collective identity as Yoruba’, which at
once expressed a possible relationship between dress and a collective iden-
tity expressed around an idea of a Yoruba nation (see Clarke 1999). In
Ghana, however, Kente was not used specifically in developing an ethnic-
ity, but it was configured in nationalistic discourses. Nationalists before
independence and the political elite afterwards wore Kente to align with
influential groups whilst also to demonstrate cultural esteem of their own
heritage (Kraamer 2005; Ross 1998). Early nationalistic intellectuals in
the coastal area, like John Mensah Sarbah, an influential lawyer, con-
sciously wore Kente on important occasions, as did Kwame Nkrumah
when he came to power in 1957. Nkrumah made the wearing of Kente
part of his philosophy of African personality at the beginning of the 1940s
(see Ross 1998). After becoming Prime Minister in 1957, Kente became
the official dress for ambassadors and was widely used by other politicians,
creating a boom in the production of Kente. Fosu (1993) notes the pos-
sible wearing of such cloth as an emphatic expression of decolonisation
with ‘stress placed on the intrinsic value of local traditions over the inferi-
ority of African races supposed through colonisation’. His pan-African
activities also influenced the use of Kente by other African leaders and
African Americans (Kraamer 2005). After the coup in 1966, the leaders of
subsequent military regimes used military outfits in public, but the use of
Kente by politicians under civil governments has remained popular until
today. Even through changes of government and military regime, Kente
has kept its status of political dress with the connotation, among many
others, of the cultural richness of Ghana (Kraamer 1996).
Since the 1990s, the origin of Kente became highly debated in Ghana
framed in ethnic terms, even when in practice many continued to wear
cloth based on fashion choices rather than presumed ethnic ‘authenticity’.
The Nkrumah era favoured a style of Kente which in the 1950s was mainly
associated with Asante cloth, rayon textiles in contrasting colours with
non-figurative motifs. Since then, this style developed and changed in all
three weaving centres, and one could argue that today it has become a
true Ghanaian Kente style (see Kraamer 2006, 2012, 2020; Kraamer and
Barnes 2018).
122 M. KRAAMER
Dress and Fashion
Another approach to the relation of textile use and social identity, fol-
lowed by several authors on African textiles, is to focus on dress, rather
than textiles, as a marker of identity (e.g. Eicher 1995; Hendrickson 1996)
and, more recently, the use of a fashion lens to study dress ensembles (e.g.
Rabine 2002; Rovine 2015). Joanne Eicher (1995) defines ‘ethnic dress’
as ‘the body modifications and supplements that mark the ethnic identity
on an individual are ethnic dress’ (1995, p. 1). As she argues, ethnic dress
is never static; sometimes just details of dress become critical points of
distinction between two ethnic groups and ranks within a group, and
makes the point that gender issues are also always present (Eicher 1995).
As much as these last statements can be taken for granted, her presump-
tions are somewhat problematic. When people dress for a specific occa-
sion, even when that dress configuration is specific to a particular group,
this should not be taken necessarily as a people ‘marking their ethnicity’.
Moreover, discourse on West African dress assumes too often that the
relationship between dress and ethnicity is unproblematic (e.g. Sumberg
1995, pp. 165–181; Eicher and Erekosima 1995, pp. 162–164; and Renne
1995, pp. 117–137), and yet there are multiple reasons why people dress
up. In the literature, stress is laid on the wearing of certain textiles to forge
a link with previous generations. Yet, as noted earlier, differences in dress
between neighbouring groups are sometimes determined by economic
history—for example, the coastal Kalabari managed to gather more wealth
over time than their inland neighbours, the Nembe (Sumberg 1995). As
further support, consider the way chiefs all over southern Ghana, Togo
and the Ivory Coast use a whole set of regalia that does not differ greatly
from one area to another, except in the richness of the material used.
Although it has been argued that these regalia have an Asante origin, they
were already in use by many other groups during the nineteenth century,
as noted earlier (Quarcoopome 1993). Even when ethnicity seems to be
relevant, such as the use of a T-shirt worn under a male Kente cloth by the
coastal Akan (e.g. Fanti), but no shirt worn by the inland Akan (e.g.
Asante), this difference may have emerged for climatic reasons rather than
traditions. Therefore, to assume ethnicity as the dominant or sole para-
digm is highly problematic. It seems more credible to argue that the wear-
ing of textiles is more a matter of taste, status and social position. The
6 A CLOTH TO WEAR: VALUE EMBODIED IN GHANAIAN TEXTILES 123
Innovation and Patronage
Hand-woven textiles are used at many social events in Ghana. They are
often used alongside African printed cloth. The local patronage for these
textiles is strong. Customs have changed, some have diminished and new
demands have developed. Hand-woven textiles continue to be used, how-
ever, to demonstrate wealth, enact social identity, forge a link with the past
and exhibit personal taste and sense of fashion, within a context of com-
petitive display. Kente cloths are used particularly in events that mark dif-
ferent stages of the life cycle and also figure at festivals and in some
religious services.
The use of cloth is, however, rarely more specific than needing to be
hand-woven, being a relatively individual choice. This choice is the out-
come of a complex set of factors according to the wealth, status, esteem,
taste and fashion of the person involved. The decision may also depend
simply on what textiles somebody owns. Sometimes a new cloth is ordered,
a decision that depends not only on money, but also on the perceived
importance of the occasion, and the respect a person wishes to pay it.
Then there is the individual evaluation of what is appropriate for a specific
occasion. Even textiles whose name would seem to direct a person to wear
the cloth on a certain occasion, such as Easter Sunday, are used on other
occasions. There are a few exceptions to this free choice, such as the wear-
ing of a particular cloth by young Agotime women in front of festival
procession and (in the past) puberty rites. The only restriction that cus-
tomers have in their choice of textile is in colour preference for certain
occasions: white as one of the many possible colours in a (printed or hand-
124 M. KRAAMER
Conclusion
This chapter has analysed the changing values associated overtly and
implicitly in the use of Kente in all its complexities. Whilst often argued to
be a strong indicator of ethnicity, and even discussed in these terms in
recent times, in this chapter it is shown that Kente in past and present
underscores in much more complex ways social identities and a sense of
fashion, rather than ethnicity. In this chapter, it is argued that the use of
Kente across ethnic groups and different interrelated weaving centres
weakens the argument in the literature about ethnic dress. Rather, the use
of Kente as formal dress at key occasions, such as a festival, church service
or wedding, serves to reinforce the role of dress-as-fashion as well as dress
in cementing complex and changing combinations of social identities in
this part of the world. This is clearly pronounced when wearing cloth dur-
ing times of post-colonial re-assertion such as in the aftermath of national
independence, the visiting of foreign dignitaries or the election of new
political leaders.
The second area of discussion in the chapter focused on problematising
value when drawing on mainstream constructs such as economic value or
cost, in social spaces where monetary transactions are imbued with wider
power and class dynamics. Monetary value related to production cost plays
only some role in the take-up of Kente, apart from indicating of disposable
income by the growing middle classes in urban areas. Rather, the use of
6 A CLOTH TO WEAR: VALUE EMBODIED IN GHANAIAN TEXTILES 125
References
Aronson, L. (1982). Popo Weaving: The Dynamics of Trade in Southeastern
Nigeria. African Arts, 15(3), 43–47, 90–91.
Boateng, B. (2014). Adinkra and Kente Cloth in History, Law, and Life. Textile
Society of America 2014 Biennial Symposium Proceedings: New Directions:
Examining the Past, Creating the Future, Los Angeles, California, September
10–14, 2014. Retrieved October 15, 2018, from http://digitalcommons.unl.
edu/tsaconf/932.
Bourdieu, P. (1993). The Field of Cultural Production. Edited and Introduced by
Randal Johnson. Cambridge: Polity Press.
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London: Frank Cass.
Clarke, D. (1999). Aso Oke: The Evolving Tradition of Hand-Woven Textile Design
Among the Yoruba of South-Western Nigeria. Ph.D. Thesis, School of Oriental
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Echeruo, M. J. C. (1977). Victorian Lagos: Aspects of Nineteenth Century Lagos
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Practices. Durham; London: Duke University Press.
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6 A CLOTH TO WEAR: VALUE EMBODIED IN GHANAIAN TEXTILES 127
David Rae
Introduction
This chapter explores microcultural and intercultural entrepreneurship in
relation to the creative economy and place-making. Framing small groups
of people who share common values, beliefs, behaviours, heritage and lin-
guistic resources as ‘microcultures’, the chapter develops a conceptual
framework that illustrates how cultural value is created through entrepre-
neurial activities within microcultures (termed as intracultural), between
microcultures (intercultural) and in relation to the macroculture. This is
used to explore inter- and intracultural innovation and value creation in
two case studies: Leicester in the UK and Cape Breton in Canada.
The chapter argues that processes of learning, interaction and cultural
exchange can enhance intercultural understanding and shape entrepre-
neurial behaviours across cultural boundaries, leading to enhanced cul-
tural and economic value and innovation. It explores the role of
microcultures and intercultural entrepreneurship beyond the generalised
D. Rae (*)
De Montfort University, Leicester, UK
e-mail: david.rae@dmu.ac.uk
Introducing Microcultures
The significance of small cultural groups has been researched in relation to
cultural organisational literature (e.g. Fine and Hallett 2014; Leonardi
2011; Bolon and Bolon 1994). Recognising this, related terms such as
‘subculture’, ‘co-culture’ and ‘microculture’ are used to define small and
recognisably distinct groups who share a common set of values, beliefs and
behaviours, who possess a common history, and use a common verbal and
nonverbal symbol system, similar to, but varying subtly from, the domi-
nant culture (Banks 1994; Nieuliep 2017). This may describe an ethnic,
linguistic, geographic, faith or place-based group, or a combination of
these, which expresses the distinctive characteristics of a definable group of
people, possibly within a limited geographical area or within an organisa-
tion, belief or identity system, and which may share cultural characteristics
with one or more macrocultures.
However, microculture is not synonymous with ethnic identity, since
ethnicity is a given, albeit important aspect of cultural identity, whilst
other aspects are more mutable. The many finer distinctions of, for exam-
ple, faith, gender, sexual orientation, locus, membership and other aspects
of sectionality are relevant in defining microcultural identity. As ethnic
categories are relatively broad, a microculture can exist both within or
across ethnic groups. For example, people of Indian ethnic origin in
Britain may come from a Gujarati or other background; from East Africa;
may be of Hindu, Sikh, Moslem, Jain or Christian faith; and may have a
caste group. These, and other variables, would affect their microcultural
identity (Jivraj and Finney 2013).
As a result, whilst the term ethnic minority entrepreneurship has been
widely used (e.g. Ram and Jones 2008), the term ‘minority’ is, arguably,
becoming less applicable in cities where there is no longer a majority
ethnic group, and all groups are in effect minorities, whilst also belonging
to a microculture. In this sense, the concept of idioculture has also been
used to develop understanding of small-group cultures (see Fine 1979;
Fine and Hallett 2014; Bolon and Bolon 1994). Fine, for example, defines
an idio (from Greek for ‘own’) as ‘a system of knowledge, beliefs, behav-
iours, and customs shared by members of an interacting group to which
members can refer and employ as the basis of further interaction’ (Fine
1979, p. 734), which emerges from effective interaction by a group to
address a problem or shared interest. Fine identifies five criteria to be met,
which explain how a ‘cultural item’ is selected to form part of a group’s
134 D. RAE
both self and socially applied, and may reflect not only a shared familial
name, but also aspects of the heritable traditions and beliefs which pro-
duced the shared identity (Tajfel and Turner 1979; Weber and Dacin
2011). None of these relationships are static, even where parts of the cul-
tural map are declining, such as in depleted communities. Social and other
forms of digital media enable sharing of cultural discourses and resources,
leading to both innovation and synthesis into the mainstream.
The locus is the group’s identification with a geographic location as
‘home’. This may simply be a specific area or place; however migrant
groups, for example, may well see their country or place of ethnic origin
as ‘home’ through extended family groups as well as their current location
or ‘place’. Locus is a powerful anchoring concept in cultural identity and
clearly offers a connection with creative place-making.
The microcultural discourse is composed of the shared linguistic
resources, signs, symbols and meaning-making which are used within the
group in everyday exchanges to form and maintain their culture. The cul-
tural practices of the group are ways in which the discourse is used, for
example in events with symbolic and social meaning, performances and
production of cultural works. Social and other forms of digital media
enable sharing and diffusion of cultural discourses and resources, leading
to both innovation and synthesis into the mainstream.
These four broad categories are used in description, analysis and com-
parison of microcultural groups and their cultural production. Also, the
five idiocultural categories from Fine (1979) may be used at an even more
specific level to define how a cultural item (such as a project, product or
event) forms part of the microculture, and how it may be diffused beyond
it. So, for example, value-creating cultural activities such as events and
performances, innovative products and business ventures may be analysed
in this way.
Intracultural entrepreneurship describes a business activity targeted
within its own cultural group. Intercultural entrepreneurship takes place
when a business extends its market, employees, staff, investors, suppliers
or distributors beyond a single microculture or community, working with
two or more cultural groups. This is often necessary for growth ‘into the
mainstream’ or meso-culture. Understanding what is valued, and why, is
necessary to attract and create value. Intercultural entrepreneurship spans
boundaries between cultural groups to create wider value than is possible
in one culture. The concepts of the intercultural enterprise as a business,
7 INTERCULTURAL ENTREPRENEURSHIP IN CREATIVE PLACE-MAKING 137
cultural group, arising from diverse roots. Many of the original Scots were
Gaelic-speaking migrants from the Highland clearances and even now pat-
ronyms of MacDonald, Macleod and MacNeil are ubiquitous. They were
joined by later Scots and Irish settlers as adversity led to migration. The
first settlers claimed the best waterfront lands with later settlers scrabbling
for the poor backwoods. Today, the cultural distinctions between the rural
and farm-based communities and the former industrial and mining settle-
ments in the urban region are as pronounced as serenity and squalor.
Smaller numbers of later twentieth-century settlers brought their own cul-
tures, including workers from Poland, Ukraine, Italy, Lebanon; and
Dutch farmers.
Faith and church membership is significant, Catholicism being the larg-
est group, formed from diverse affiliations. When the Polish Catholic
church burnt down in 2014, the small community worked fiercely to raise
funds and rebuild it. There are Protestant, Orthodox, Jewish and Muslim
faith groups, progressively smaller than the Catholic communities, but
symbolically and socially important forms of cultural identity.
Cultural participation and production are economically vital in relation
to innovation and entrepreneurship for the island to offer more than its
physical resources and geographical location on the shortest Atlantic
crossing. There are cultural institutions and factors which can either enable
or constrain entrepreneurial development. These include the roles of gov-
ernment and education institutions, leadership, community action and
technology. These are largely formal and institutionally sanctioned at the
meso- and macrocultural levels. However, the role of informal activism
through community organisation, or agency, is significant at microcultural
levels, especially where institutional policies fail to resolve the effects of
economic and demographic decline in depleted communities (Johnstone
and Lionais 2004).
The philosophy of collective action, exemplified by the New Dawn
approach of ‘gathering together smart people to look at problems and
come up with new solutions’ (MacSween 2015) addresses and chal-
lenges institutional constraints by creating new institutions and logics.
Where this activism spans cultural boundaries to become intercultural, it
can have much greater multiplier effects than within one community.
The case explores an example of intercultural innovation which
responded to the discourse of economic and demographic decline and
limited institutional ability to respond to these challenges (One Nova
Scotia Commission 2014).
144 D. RAE
Cultural production has a belonging to its roots and locus, which invest it
with symbolic and shared social value. Place also provides the locus for
people to meet and share cultural experiences. The two cases describe very
different loci in which intercultural entrepreneurship has become a signifi-
cant source of value for the communities. In both cases, it has attracted
new creative producers, entrepreneurs, organisers and sources of finance
and institutional support. In this process, the identity of the place itself has
been reshaped. The Leicester of 2018 is very different from the Leicester
of thirty years before. Leicester has become a unique city in the UK for its
cultural diversity, its international connections and the growing interac-
tion between its intercultural business community and its creative indus-
tries. In comparison, Cape Breton, a little-known and remote island in
Atlantic Canada, has been able to extend its Celtic Colours festival to
include the diverse island cultures, notably the indigenous Mi’Kmaq peo-
ple with their own cultural heritage and entrepreneurial resources. This
co-created interculturality has enabled the festival to become a signature
attraction for the island and an act of creative place-making which has
repositioned it as an international cultural destination.
The cases are examples, and others could equally have been selected,
because the phenomenon of intercultural entrepreneurship contributing
to creative place-making is more widespread than might be imagined.
Even from Markusen and Gadwa’s initial work (2010), communities as
diverse as Arnaudville, Louisiana and San José, California, exemplify the
contribution of interculturality to creative place-making. As town and city
centres are increasingly challenged by trends such as online retailing, the
interaction of intercultural entrepreneurship and creative place-making
may offer a means of regenerating urban centres and districts for new
activities of cultural making which draw on the diversity of local and
migrant communities.
As indicated in the cases and discussion, intercultural entrepreneurship
can offer a valid and relevant direction for entrepreneurship. It is socially
inclusive, reflecting and valuing participation from all ethnic, sectional and
cultural groups, whether from within a host country or who are attracted
to it. It recognises that greater value can be created by working across
cultural boundaries than within just one. It promotes intercultural appre-
ciation and sensitivity, behaviours which are increasingly required in busi-
ness, public and personal lives. It enables people and groups to move from
positions of geographical or cultural peripherality to offer innovation in
mainstream markets (Rae 2017). Intercultural entrepreneurship seeks to
7 INTERCULTURAL ENTREPRENEURSHIP IN CREATIVE PLACE-MAKING 147
References
Banks, J. (1994). Multiethnic Education: Theory and Practice. Needham Heights,
MA: Allyn & Bacon.
Bolon, D. S., & Bolon, D. S. (1994). A Reconceptualization and Analysis of
Organizational Culture. Journal of Managerial Psychology, 9(5), 22. 1–8.
Bourdieu, P. (1990). The Logic of Practice. Oxford: Polity Press.
Chesbrough, H., & Bogers, M. (2014). Explicating Open Innovation: Clarifying
an Emerging Paradigm for Understanding Innovation. In H. Chesbrough,
W. Vanhaverbeke, & J. West (Eds.), New Frontiers in Open Innovation
(pp. 3–28). Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Cornelissen, J., & Werner, M. (2014). Putting Framing in Perspective: A Review
of Framing and Frame Analysis Across the Management and Organizational
Literature. Academy of Management Annals, 8, 181–235.
CREATE Welcome to Leicester, A City for the Creative Industries. (2016).
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media/179632/creative.pdf.
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23, 263–287.
Fine, G. A. (1979). Small Groups and Culture Creation: The Idioculture of Little
League Baseball Teams. American Sociological Review, 44, 733–745.
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19(1), 61–73.
Granger, R. C. (2017). The Sustainability of Creative Cities: Lessons from Leicester
and London. Leicester: De Montfort University.
148 D. RAE
Rachel Granger
Introduction
In this chapter, hidden value, which is embedded in co-produced and
socio-industrial work settings, is outlined and discussed. While the chapter
draws on the tacit aspects of creativity that are hidden from public view, as
one dimension of Parsons’ hidden culture model discussed in Chap. 2, here
it is drawn upon to depict the valuable way creativity emerges from infor-
mal and collegial interactions and settings. Bourdieu (1977) notes that
individual actions and relations are never entirely contained since they are
influenced by context and experiences, which ultimately drive wealth. This
is particularly pertinent in this chapter, which explores the way in which
creative workers operate and the intensification of co-creative sensibilities,
which might be framed as creating new socio-economic forms, something
that is only beginning to be acknowledged as changing in the literature and
in policy, but is very much in evidence in creative practice. The chapter
argues that the way in which creative work takes place w arrants particular
R. Granger (*)
De Montfort University, Leicester, UK
e-mail: rachel.granger@dmu.ac.uk
Understanding the role that places and settings can play as creative ecosys-
tems is marked out by structural and spatial praxis. Creative cities, for
example, can be conceived of as the most recent permutation of the post-
industrial form, and as such are framed as structural and spatial manifesta-
tions of advanced capitalism. Bell’s (1973) vision of a post-industrial
society as a hub of knowledge-driven services tied to universities/learning,
offers a prescient view of the creative economy as a productive socio-
structural and socio-spatial economic force. The creative city discourse in
particular notes the wider forces at play in a creative ecosystem (see e.g.
Florida 2001; Landry 1999; and Howkins 2001) as well as place attributes
such as a cityscape and the social spaces located there, which collectively
positions people, networks and social capital central to wealth creation. A
more recent expression of the dialectic between social, economic and
space in the context of creative discourse can be found in the New
Economic Geography around spatial economic impact (NEG1) and the
role of agglomeration externalities (NEG2). One might conclude there-
fore that the creative economy is a socio-economic and socio-spatial econ-
omy since it relies on factors of production constructed through and by
unique socio-spatial relations and networks, leading to the proposition
that creative value is tied irrevocably to networks and (social) space. Given
that active creative spaces are primarily those through which creative value
is constructed, a reasonable supposition is that a successful creative ecosys-
tem could also be viewed as an innovation system.
An innovation system has been defined variously as ‘the network of
institutions whose activities and interactions initiate, import, modify and
diffuse new technologies and new economically useful knowledge’
(Freeman 1987; Lundvall 1992; Nelson 1993; Metcalfe 1995) and which
determines the rate and direction of technological learning (Patel and
Pavitt 1994a). Implicit is the role of different actors and institutions and
the trilateral relationship between universities, businesses and government
(OECD 1997). The OECD notes, in particular, the role of tacit knowl-
edge or know-how exchanged through informal channels, and the codi-
fied knowledge found in publications, patents and other sources (OECD
1997, p. 7) in enabling an innovation system. The key mechanisms for
knowledge flows include joint industry research, public/private sector
partnerships, technology diffusion and movement of personnel.
154 R. GRANGER
Localisation Economies
While the notion of a Triple Helix then can be argued to sit uncomfort-
ably with the creative practices of a creative economy, there are some
aspects of the Helix model such as interoperability of people and institu-
tions that resonate more generally. A Helix model infers place-based
advantages of an industry as a result of institutional interactions, the con-
ferred advantages of which—the agglomeration externalities—have
become the cornerstone of contemporary thinking on economic growth.
Drawing on Hoover (1948), it is argued that economies of scale pro-
duce place-based advantages in cities (urbanisation economies), which
derive from the location of specialist institutions, suppliers, office space
and a ready supply of labour and other factor inputs. In other words, that
the critical mass of resources or economies of scale found in cities produce
inherent benefits. Localisation economies by contrast, represent the intan-
gible benefits that arise when companies and practitioners gather together
and interact, and where advantages accrue from shared resources, includ-
ing suppliers, and exchange of ideas. In this sense, localisation economies
refer to the advantages of socio-space in general and emerge from the
‘traded and untraded interdependencies’ between companies and actors
(see Storper 1997), which build to create powerful places and have
explained differences in industrial growth patterns (see also Cismas et al.
2010). Johnston et al. (2000) assert the key localising forces of agglom-
eration economies as deriving principally from the ‘socialness’ of human
activities, facilitated in part by geography but fundamentally sociocultural.
Thus the value of geographical localisation appears to lie in the face-to-
face contact, the social and cultural spaces, which underpin alliances,
156 R. GRANGER
f orging trust and reciprocity, and in developing norms and rules of behav-
iour, which lead to distinct patterns of knowledge exchange and innova-
tion—in other words, a combination of proximity and propinquity.
Elsewhere these same ideas have been conveyed in the notion of local
‘buzz’ (Bathelt et al. 2004), ‘sticky’ interrelationships (Markusen 1996)
and as discussed later, social capital. As such, localisation economies repre-
sent a ‘nexus of untraded interdependencies’ and while it is true that
‘localisation is dynamic and not a static process’ (Johnston et al. 2000,
p. 459) and that places can develop histories of localised cultures, which
create path- dependent behaviour, they nevertheless provide a useful
framework for depicting spatially uneven development, using a vocabulary
that speaks to the social and proprietary nature of the creative economy. In
short, it provides a more nuanced framework for analysing the creative
economy rather than the more formal and economic Helix models.
1
Research on memory development suggests that accumulated prior knowledge increases
the ability to put new knowledge into memory (the acquisition of knowledge) as well as the
ability to recall and use it.
158 R. GRANGER
Table 8.1 Analytical, synthetic and symbolic knowledge systems (Asheim and
Coenen 2005)
System Location and nature of knowledge base
for Denmark as a whole (Statistics Denmark 2018), and 55 per cent for
research and technology sectors (Eurostat 2018). There is also a notice-
ably good framework for entrepreneurship in Copenhagen, which is
ranked second in the EU’s regional entrepreneurship and development
index (REDI = 78), and investment in research and development is higher
in Copenhagen than elsewhere in Northern Europe (R&D accounting for
4.7 per cent of GDP) (Copenhagen Task Force 2018). The combination
of skills, entrepreneurship and investment in R&D are important factors,
which when coupled with a design mindset, provide context to
Copenhagen’s creative growth in recent years. The city’s creative econ-
omy has acted as a pull on European graduates, and as a result, the city
looks set to establish itself as one of Europe’s leading metropolitan areas,
economically and socially. The city’s prevalence of ‘labs’, alluding to its
multiple technology and living lab spaces, its co-working spaces, and its
culture of open problem-solving and co-design, as well as experimental
and innovative behaviour are a product of both the current economic
strengths of the city and key contributing factors to its growth and
reputation.
There are currently 33 labs, 2 science parks, and 17 maker spaces that
are located in Copenhagen, but more than 100 organisations that provide
dedicated space for co-working, co-design of new ideas, hacking, proto-
typing and incubating. While the functions and precise characteristics of
these organisations vary markedly, and in some cases overlap (Fig. 8.1),
there is a sense of an experimental and alternative ecosystem in Copenhagen
that is supporting knowledge development and innovation in the city,
much of which operates in the creative economy.
2
Computer numerical control (CNC) refers to the automated control of machine tools
and 3D printers through computers. A CNC machine processes metal, wood, plastic, and so
on by following the instructions set out in a computer program.
8 CO-CREATIVE THIRD SPACE, MAKER SPACE AND MICRO INDUSTRIAL… 165
3
For example, discussing the music of ‘Queens of the Stone Age’ and ‘D-A-D’, against the
recent festival line-ups ‘Bring me the Horizon’, ‘Rolling Blackouts Coastal Fever’, ‘Rebecca
Lou’, ‘Crack Cloud’.
168 R. GRANGER
tributing an idea or solution. They are generally hands-on. When all of the
parts are linked, there’s a flow of energy so that we all feel engaged by our
actions, and feel alive. When actions produce a result for one member, that
others can see and touch, there is a collective sense of well-being that results in
effort-driven rewards.’
As an observer, the music connections provide a thread that pulls
together the varied interests of the Underbroen community; effectively
bringing together disparate interests in the arts (graffiti), architecture,
laser cutting, electronics and CNCs, 3D printing, plastics, metal and
wood. The music and festival scene provides a shared narrative and lan-
guage, creating its own social spaces between these different crafts that
serve to distinguish between insiders and outsiders. The maker mindset by
definition is inherently open and receptive, provides relational proximity,
which when combined with music metaphors and codes provides a socially
charged and open environment for learning, and for knowledge combina-
tion and exchange. These same shared narratives also extend outside of
the organisation, connecting Underbroen to the City of Copenhagen
(through Mikkel C.K. Holst, the Head of Creative Growth) and
Copenhagen Maker (through Stine Broen Christensen the Manager of
Copenhagen Maker) who both share interests in music and making. Both
have acted as key supporters of Underbroen. One might observe how
these relational ties that provide structure and unification to the member-
ship of a maker space also facilitate ties with other individuals, which begin
to explain strategic links across the city, and arguably significant in under-
standing Underbroen’s strategic and elevated role in the city’s creative
economy. A reasonable supposition is that the inclusion of key people with
status in a community, facilitated by shared narratives and beliefs, can be
powerful in raising the status of an organisation and its work.
Flexible Production—While the maker mindset at Underbroen could be
argued to enhance performance by linking member motivation with prod-
uct innovation and feedback loops, the organisation’s informal and flexible
governance provides for wider efficiency savings. Members use Underbroen
in markedly different ways, at different times. Students might use the
space for quick access to machines, to complete assignments or to learn
new techniques, reflected in short-term membership. Hobbyists might
use workshop space and machines in the evenings or at weekends, depend-
ing on their free time, while freelancers or micro businesses use the space
on a regular basis. While students and hobbyists might use the space as
more of a learning resource, freelancers can use the space to secure short-
8 CO-CREATIVE THIRD SPACE, MAKER SPACE AND MICRO INDUSTRIAL… 169
Analysis and Discussion
In the case study of Underbroen, there are multiple examples of social
capital in operation. The building itself and its membership arrangements,
provides a structural mechanism for knowledge to be shared and com-
bined in a small workshop area. Shared projects provide a supplementary
space for members to come together to combine knowledge and skills,
and as Underbroen develops more strategic links in the city, there are
greater opportunities for members to make use of structural ties with
170 R. GRANGER
other organisations. The Space’s close ties with the Blox Hub offer obvi-
ous opportunities for accessing the very latest technology. Cognitive prox-
imity is achieved through shared narratives and language emanating from
their common maker mindset, shared interests in music, and also from
socialising in bars and at festivals. This provides a unifying force for bring-
ing together disparate interests, crafts, and for bringing together actors
with markedly different socio-economic circumstances. Relational
proximity is achieved predominantly through members’ maker mindset
and their shared values, particularly in terms of social innovation. While
the maker mindset provides a hidden code or culture for working, which
acts out as an obligation to help fellow members with new ideas and proj-
ects (e.g. testing prototypes, offering advice), one finds examples of mem-
bers borrowing resources (materials, personal equipment), and asking for
feedback, sourcing technical skills from others, and which over time builds
into a reciprocal and interdependent relationship between members,
which can spur ongoing knowledge exchange.
In thinking further about Nahapiet and Ghoshal’s (1998) conditions
for knowledge exchange and combination, Underbroen provides a unique
environment for working, which to some extent addresses all of the condi-
tions for social capital. The informal and community nature of Underbroen,
which is shaped in part by its founder members and the Space’s manager,
provides a structure for exchanging resources. The design of the shared
workshop and the open kitchen area provide a physical opportunity for
knowledge exchange and combination to occur, but opportunities are also
created from the softer spaces and rules of engagement, for example, the
mandatory training for new members, which allow for introductions with
different experts and machines, the visual references to members from the
member polaroids framed on one wall of the main workshop area, and the
information board, which details social outings. Soft rules of engagement
help to create a sense of community at Underbroen, which lays out an
environment for further exchange of resources. The limitations on space
at Underbroen mean that larger projects are placed on the main workshop
floor, and this also encourages advice and input from other members,
given that they are constant visual reminders.
In conventional commercial settings, Nahapiet and Ghoshal (1998)
assume actors consider the potential value from combining resources such
as skills, before being motivated to do so. This is because combinations of
resources can produce new products and services that have unique intel-
lectual property and therefore market value. In Underbroen, the embed-
8 CO-CREATIVE THIRD SPACE, MAKER SPACE AND MICRO INDUSTRIAL… 171
ded maker mindset acts implicitly, as the modus operandi so that members
are actively motivated to support each other by providing additional craft
skills and experiences, by offering input on designs, and feedback to sup-
port problem solving. Underbroen’s open source values also encourage
co-design of new products and joint problem solving. Given the manda-
tory training then, there is a sense that all members have at least a basic
foundation of skills and therefore capability to absorb and make use of
different permutations of knowledge exchange there.
Through the case study, the different dimensions of social capital as
well as the conditions needed for social capital are seen to be facilitated by
social space and the sociocultural attributes that create that space. Drawing
on Lefebvre (1974/1992), one might argue that Underbroen’s social
space or community is a (social) product, which is constructed and shaped
by the people (or members) that use it, and which also serves as a ‘tool of
thought and action’ and a mode of production. Underbroen’s space is also
a means of control (see Lefebvre 1992, p. 26), dictating which organisa-
tions it has strategic links with, which arises from its members, their shared
narratives and codes and their status.
The case study also highlights the way in which Underbroen as a maker
space continues to evolve as a new socio-economic form. Underbroen
operates as a lab that experiments by combining skills and knowledge; as a
maker space that produces new products; as a co-working space that pro-
vides affordable and open spaces as well as machinery; and as a learning
space that encourages new skill and knowledge development. Underbroen’s
informal governance and strong sense of socialisation, which is reinforced
by shared interests around music, and making, provide the conditions
needed for social capital (the opportunity, the motivation, the capability)
while also offering a ‘third’ space (Lefebvre 1991; Soja 1996). That is, it
offers a space that is both real (work) and imagined (intellectualised),
where members work, learn and socialise (live), and which is a social,
informal, hybrid, which Soja (1996, p. 70) argues ‘challenges all conven-
tional modes of thought and taken-for-granted epistemologies’. Critically,
this ‘thirding’ of space provides a different way of conceiving of space and
its relationship with capitalist production, which challenges conventional
thinking of where and how creative value is produced.
In a similar way, the manner in which member makers at Underbroen
(i.e. microbusinesses) have come together to organise work draws paral-
lels with an ‘Industrial District’ and draws on agglomeration economies.
The concept of a district was first used by Alfred Marshall to describe
172 R. GRANGER
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8 CO-CREATIVE THIRD SPACE, MAKER SPACE AND MICRO INDUSTRIAL… 175
Jennifer Garcia-Carrizo and Rachel Granger
Introduction
This chapter considers the notion of value appropriation embodied in
physical space, as well as the process through which value is constructed
through space. Drawing on the case study of the Ouseburn Valley in the
North East of England, this chapter examines the value that comes from
the development of a place, as well as the value embodied in a place as site
of activism, and the notoriety of a locale’s brand. The chapter positions
the Ouseburn Valley as a cultural and creative district in the North East of
England and a primary space for local activism.
The chapter is organised in three parts. The first part looks at the role of
activism in conceptual terms and provides a backdrop to the examination
of the Ouseburn Trust in the second section, which details how a group of
J. Garcia-Carrizo
Complutense University of Madrid, Madrid, Spain
e-mail: jennigar@ucm.es
R. Granger (*)
De Montfort University, Leicester, UK
e-mail: rachel.granger@dmu.ac.uk
Activism
Activism has traditionally been understood as a set of efforts aimed at pro-
moting, preventing or directing social, political, economic or environmen-
tal reforms. Activism entails writing letters to newspapers, and concerted
political campaigns, boycotts, street marches or strikes. In fact, forms of
activism are so broad that any activity that has the purpose of ‘making a
change at a political, economic, social or spatial level, and tied to the con-
certed actions of people’, can be considered as such (Brain 2004, p. 6)
touching on aspects of identity, democracy, social movements and cam-
paigns, to stronger aspects of defiance, rebellion, disobedience and
violent acts.
There is now broad consensus that in the second half of the twentieth
century, electoral turnout and political party membership in the developed
world, as traditional indicators of activism, have encountered a steady sec-
ular erosion, whilst rising education and literacy, as well as wealth in devel-
oping countries, have been associated with wider political turnout. In that
sense, activism aligned to democracy and democratic actions implies a
reduced activism in many parts of the world at the same time as rising
activism in other areas. Here Norris (2002) makes the point that other
forms of activism have grown during this time and need to be taken into
account: ‘demonstrations, signing petitions, and consumer boycotts have
become more common since the mid-1970s and engagement in new
social movements have flowered in affluent nations, suggesting an
9 CULTURAL AND CREATIVE DISTRICTS AS SPACES FOR VALUE CHANGE 179
and urban conversion of the landscape in a city, and acts as a principal cata-
lyst and conduit for broader economic, political and social change in the
environment in which it is integrated. The chapter considers whether such
action is conventional in form and to what extent this captures unconven-
tional demographic groups.
Cultural and creative districts as the primary spaces discussed in this
chapter can be understood as places of ‘high culture’ where a set of eco-
nomic (companies), non-economic (non-governmental organisations,
foundations) and institutional (municipalities, councils, etc.) actors make
an active decision to use shared resources (artistic, cultural, social, envi-
ronmental) for collective and creative action (see Lazzeretti 2008). In
general terms, cultural and creative districts are recognisable as small and
localised spaces in a city, which act as catalysts for marginalised areas
through an active process of revitalisation, making them both liveable and
valuable (Roselló and Wright 2010; UNESCO 2016). In this chapter, the
importance of cultural and creative districts as spaces for activist move-
ments is examined, with the Ouseburn Valley drawn upon as a case study
through which activism is implemented.
Adopting a grounded theory approach, fieldwork was conducted in the
North East of England between August 2017 and August 2018, entailing
face-to-face interviews with nine key contacts in creative and cultural insti-
tutions. In the field, brochures and corporate information related to the
cultural district of the Ouseburn Valley have also been analysed (along
with semi-fixed data collected in situ) using a range of qualitative tech-
niques. This data was collected through different observation episodes
developed between August 2017 and February 2018 in the Ouseburn
Valley and by taking photographs of the different spaces that confirm its
surroundings.
The Ouseburn Valley area refers to the Ouseburn River Valley, a small
tributary of the main river of the city of Newcastle Upon Tyne, the river
Tyne. Newcastle Upon Tyne is situated some 280 miles north of London,
and 100 miles south of Edinburgh, in Scotland. The issue of geographical,
political and economic peripherality is, therefore, key to understanding
the context of the area and the rationale for community-led activism. The
Ouseburn Valley is a 20 minutes’ walk from Newcastle city centre. The
Tyne tributary is located in the eastern part of the city and is crossed by
three impressive bridges. The name of Ouseburn Valley makes special ref-
erence to the southern part of the Valley, the ‘Lower Ouseburn’, which is
currently the main space for culture and creative industries within
Newcastle. However, it has taken more than 30 years of work in the area
to revitalise and rehabilitate it.
At the end of the twentieth century, the decline of heavy industry in the
area (glass, coal mining and ceramics) as part of a wider process of dein-
dustrialisation in England resulted in mass unemployment and redundant
industrial workplaces in the Ouseburn Valley. By the early 1980s, the val-
ley showed signs of abandonment with former factories and warehouses
falling into widespread disuse, and as a result, the local area gained a repu-
tation as being both poor and dangerous. Unemployment at this time
stood at 34 per cent for the city (1987) compared to 9.7 per cent for the
UK (Nomis 2018), with male unemployment only second nationally to
the most deprived neighbourhoods of Liverpool. The valley area and so-
called East and West Ends of the city had the highest crime rates in the
country and chronic problems of poverty and disorder, which reached
crisis levels during the 1980s, and whose notoriety culminated in the 1991
Meadow Well and Benwell riots in Newcastle. The large-scale disorder and
criminal damage of the riots highlighted the severe social and economic
situation of communities throughout Newcastle, and the prevalent com-
munity disaffection. In this sense, the onset of new funding throughout
the 1990s, starting with the City Challenge and several rounds of the
Single Regeneration Budget, was seen as a government response to the
urgent needs being faced by Newcastle residents, which had been to some
extent failed by the £140 m investment through the Tyne and Wear
Development Corporation (TWDC) from 1987 onwards.
Historically, the onset of heritage-led regeneration and the establish-
ment of key sites of cultural and leisure activity as a basis for creating
dynamic and competitive locations can be traced to a series of early activi-
ties in the Ouseburn in the early 1980s. It is notable because of the level
182 J. GARCIA-CARRIZO AND R. GRANGER
1
Under a series of regeneration schemes, funded by government sources including English
partnerships (latterly One North East), Single Regeneration Budget and SRB Challenge
Fund, English Heritage, TWDC, and Newcastle City Council.
9 CULTURAL AND CREATIVE DISTRICTS AS SPACES FOR VALUE CHANGE 183
Whilst it is true that Lazzeretti (2008) defines cultural and creative dis-
tricts as those spaces of a high cultural and creative level where a set of
actors use shared resources in order to develop a common project, it is
important to note other characteristics highlighted by others authors. Of
notable importance are Wansborough and Mageean (2000) who indicate
that cultural and creative districts are spaces that usually appear in the cen-
tre of urban areas, meaning that they are easily integrated into the urban
environment and that their actions have an important impact on their
local city through local presence and visibility of activities. This is certainly
true of the Ouseburn Valley, whose cultural and creative district is
10–15 minutes’ walking from the city centre of Newcastle (Fig. 9.1).
Wansborough and Mageean (2000) go on to note that such districts
are typically multi-use environments in which spaces for cultural and lei-
sure consumption appear, alongside sites of cultural production and work
environments. As shown in Table 9.1, the Ouseburn Valley is home to
both cultural consumption (e.g. local heritage, art gallery and library, res-
taurant and pub), which fits seamlessly into sites of cultural and creative
production (e.g. Northern Print, Toffee Factory creative start-ups).
Districts such as the Ouseburn are therefore attractive for diverse audi-
ences and demographic groups with different interests and needs, which
we argue has been pivotal in securing local activism from unconventional
demographics in the area (see Table 9.1).
184 J. GARCIA-CARRIZO AND R. GRANGER
Fig. 9.1 Map of the city centre of Newcastle Upon Tyne (rectangle), which
includes the Ouseburn Valley (circle). (Source: Own elaboration from Google
Maps 2018)
using former industrial sites and warehouses as, for example, The Kiln,
Arch2, The Toffee Factory and The Biscuit Factory. In fact, several inter-
viewees alluded to the ‘huge local effort’ to conserve industrial elements
in the landscape, such as the famous chimneys (Fig. 9.2), traditional floor
surfaces in Leighton Street and street furniture, at greater local cost. Such
attempts have also been noted by the Heritage Lottery Fund and through
regional architectural awards, which have been important factors in the
continued designation of the area as the Lower Ouseburn Conservation
Area and bringing in new people. As two interviewees noted, the Ouseburn
Trust has become a key local agent which reports on historical, industrial
and heritage value and works with the City Council to defend the conser-
vation area, some of which also sits in a designated wildlife corridor and
the Hadrian’s Wall World Heritage Site.
The work of Ouseburn Futures and the Ouseburn Trust in developing
a CD of oral history (‘Sound bites’) and a photographic archive for wider
educational and community use has also been an important activity for
Fig. 9.2 Different industrial chimneys in the Toffee Factory at the Ouseburn
9 CULTURAL AND CREATIVE DISTRICTS AS SPACES FOR VALUE CHANGE 187
preserving local activities and history, reinforcing local identity and roots
whilst also tied to local value-creation. This is reflected, for example, in the
highly successful crowdfunding campaigning and local support for the
‘Construct’ project, which will reinsert a bandstand into the local area and
revitalise the space between the arches of the viaduct; bringing the viaduct
into the centre of activities in the area. The project also entails a reinter-
pretation of a Victorian musical kiosk (involving the two universities in the
city: Newcastle University and Northumbria University). Thus, it is an
indication of the extent of local support and value being created through
local conservation and activism in the Valley.
Thirdly, there have been several attempts to use local artists and busi-
nesses in local activities, which have heightened the visibility of local works
in the community whilst also reinforcing local ownership. For example,
local artists (Hannah Scully, Luke Sellars, Danny McConway, Ernie Paxto)
have been active in painting local street furniture and bollards, whilst other
projects have created murals on local buildings (Fig. 9.3), which have
provided the Valley with its own identity, whilst also becoming a local
features in their own right.
will help to foster an increase in social cohesion. There are three types of
actors or activists in the Ouseburn Valley that warrant further discussion,
and are framed as mini case studies or unconventional activists.
Fig. 9.4 Local tours. (Source: Lesley Turner, Admin & Communications Officer,
Ouseburn Trust)
changes to images, relaunch and so on. In urban areas, the same processes
are used as part of wider place marketing campaigns and city rebranding
exercises. Glasgow’s ‘Miles Better’ campaign in 1982 was used as a delib-
erate rebranding exercise by Struthers Advertising to re-imagineer Glasgow
as a destination for tourism, visitors and investment, and was arguably one
of the world’s earliest and most successful city rebranding exercises, which
changed the public’s consciousness of Glasgow away from football hooli-
ganism and alcohol abuse to an appealing cosmopolitan city.
District rebranding can have a number of benefits on the ground.
Firstly, competition between urban places to attract new investment, visi-
tors and even residents has led to a mainstreaming of branding and place
marketing as part of regeneration strategies, and is a critical response to
the emergence of ‘identikit’ cities, visitor destinations and even cultural
districts, as a hegemonic urban renewal model. In these cases, additional
branding activities are used to highlight unique selling points of a locality
to an aspirational group. They are also an acknowledgement of the role of
‘civic boosterism’ (Logan and Molotch 1987) and the role of investing in
the aesthetics of an area to rebrand and to draw in further interest and
investment. In many ways, rebranding acts as a means of refreshing the
public’s feeling about a locality and to reinvent itself as a viable proposi-
tion—a safe and welcoming place. For example, Barcelona’s place market-
ing ahead of the 1992 Summer Olympics focused on the perception of the
beach area of the city as safe and appealing places of interest, which were
used also to open up new products to locals as much as they were visitors,
for example, beaches. In that sense and again drawing on Barcelona, care-
ful rebranding can play a role in engendering civic pride and in uniting a
city or group of people around a public project or locality and engender-
ing a sense of local ownership and pride. Barcelona’s place marketing
activities around the introduction of a new (local) verb ‘Ravalejar’ (Ravalear
in Spanish) to highlight changes in the character of the once notorious
and seedy Raval District speaks of attempts to reassert pride in an area
without losing any of its identity and personality, whilst at the same time,
opening it up to a new demographic cohort. In other words, it is being
used as an unconventional activity to bring in new users.
District rebranding in this sense is used as part of the repertoire of
actions in urban regeneration to help discard negative imagery of a specific
locale or industrial past. Whereas industrial areas were once framed as out-
puts of the past and seen as sites of ‘wicked problems’ (Rittel and Webber
1973) connected to severe economic and social deprivation, high levels of
9 CULTURAL AND CREATIVE DISTRICTS AS SPACES FOR VALUE CHANGE 193
crime and unrest, vandalism and public disorder, pollution and a lack of
civic amenities, they are now branded as resources for the future—for resi-
dents, for visitors, for investors. In the Ouseburn, rebranding and revitali-
sation are framed as the primary routes for enabling social change and
fostering pride and activism in an area, which have brought in new, often
unconventional, demographics into grassroots action.
In the Ouseburn Valley, there are some clear uses of rebranding and
place marketing in recent developments of the cultural and creative dis-
trict, some of which could be cited as unconventional cultural activities
ties to community activism. The use of industrial names, retention of
industrial features in local architecture and reuse of spaces, and even the
use of historical and industrial activities in new events and spectacles (e.g.
festivals, Victorian kiosks, bandstands), and archiving activities (e.g. oral
histories and photographic archives) serve to transform the perception of
a once-dangerous area. On the one hand, these examples have been cited
as exemplars of community activity, with wider engagement of the local
people but on the other have acted as the main tool for securing activism,
including local volunteering and financing. As one interviewee at Chilli
Studios, the redeveloped business space in the Valley remarks ‘this kind of
place gives me a sense of meaning and value in life … it makes me proud
of living in a city like this’ (Interviewee 4).
It is interesting to note that since April 2018, the Ouseburn Trust has
focused on the revival of the use of the ‘Ouseburn brand’, in part spurred
by the marketing activities of the City Council, but also to denote a sense
of local ownership. The logo (Fig. 9.5), comprising an ‘O’, has been inter-
Fig. 9.5 Logo from the Ouseburn Valley and its variation to ‘Made in the
Ouseburn’ campaign. (Source: Ouseburn Trust 2018b)
194 J. GARCIA-CARRIZO AND R. GRANGER
Ouseburn has a long history of making things—starting with glass then pot-
tery, canvas, lead, engines, toffee… The evidence is still all around us in the
buildings and the names, even if re-used for other purposes now. And it is
still in many ways a working valley making an amazing variety of things—all
sorts of art, beer, websites, furniture, music, bread … but often not easily
visible to visitors and passers-by. Over the summer we’d like to showcase as
many of the things currently being Made in Ouseburn as we can fit into our
Victoria Tunnel Visitor Centre (55 Lime Street) as a free exhibition.
(Ouseburn Trust 2018b)
Conclusions
Several aspects of the Ouseburn Valley have been highlighted as being
untypical of creative and cultural districts found in other parts of the cre-
ative economy and discussed in the mainstream policy and academic litera-
ture. The location of a farm and the inclusion of unconventional
demographic groups such as older volunteers, individuals with learning
and physical disabilities, and those with mental health issues are seldom
positioned at the centre of a thriving creative and cultural district as has
been done in the Ouseburn Valley. Local ownership and financing of
unconventional cultural activities, such as murals, local street furniture,
archives, bandstands and Victorian kiosks, speak of local pride and identity
in the area, but also a sense of collective action, found in local activism
literature. Drawing on Martin (2007), we argue here that what is being
presented in the Ouseburn amounts to (non-violent) form of activism that
‘goes beyond conventional behaviour’ as much as it does local revitalisa-
tion and brings with it inherent local value. As such, we argue that arts-
based activism in the Ouseburn not only has led to creative reuse and
urban conversion of a former industrial landscape, but also has acted as a
principal catalyst and conduit for broader economic, political and social
changes by local activists, which draws on Brain’s (2004) understanding of
activism as an ‘everyday act of defiance’ tied to local identity and social
progress (see Baumgardner and Richards 2000). As such, we argue that
these sorts of activities taking place in the Ouseburn represent both
cultural-led regeneration and also represent legitimate forms of ‘being an
activist’ and ‘doing activism’ in a contemporary context. Both provide
inherent value to local people. Supporting cultural and creative districts as
spaces for the development of activism helps to transform cultural policies,
defend the rights of artists, give a voice to civil society, stimulate the expor-
tation of cultural goods and services, promote digital arts and even formu-
late a national culture plan (UNESCO 2005, p. 5).
We identify three prominent forms of activism in the Ouseburn Valley:
What has been presented in the Ouseburn Valley is a space with direct
cultural and creative value, primarily economic and social in nature, and
typical of former industrial spaces with a new creative and cultural use.
What is also presented in the Ouseburn case study is a creative and cultural
district with wider social value, used as a site for local activism, enabling
local change and bringing together unconventional activities and groups.
In this sense, the Ouseburn Valley is as a space in which integration and
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198 J. GARCIA-CARRIZO AND R. GRANGER
David Heap and Caroline Coles
Introduction
In Chap. 3, the value of the design industry was noted as being especially
valuable in an economic context in the UK. Generating £85.2 bn in wealth
in 2016, growing around 5 per cent per year and accounting for 99.6 per
cent of all new jobs (Design Council 2018), design has become synony-
mous with value creation in the cultural and creative economy. Benton
et al. (2018) make the point that the influence of ‘design’ goes well beyond
the creative industries into, for example, the aerospace and automotive
industries, banking and other professional services, implying that design is
integral to the future economy (see Design Council 2017), as well as being
integral to value creation more broadly across the economy, in which it now
accounts for seven per cent of all wealth as measured by Gross Value Added
(GVA). To some extent, this is reflected in the per capita wealth of design-
D. Heap (*)
De Montfort University, Leicester, UK
e-mail: david.heap@dmu.ac.uk
C. Coles
Aston University, Birmingham, UK
e-mail: c.coles1@aston.ac.uk
quality (cf.
quantity/mass production) would meet customer require-
ments more successfully and thus be more competitive in the long run.
Corfield’s statements draw similarities with the Finniston Report (UK,
1980; see also Williams 2007) which although concerned primarily with
the state of the British engineering profession (in transition) also high-
lighted the positive economic impacts of design-led innovation leading to
a seminar held by Margaret Thatcher, the then prime minister at Downing
Street in 1982. Under the banner of ‘Product Design and Market Success’,
a wide range of successful British designers, captains of industry, educa-
tionalists and government ministers considered and promoted British
design, with Thatcher (1982a, b) arguing ‘British competitiveness would
never extend globally if it forgot the importance of good design’:
By ‘design’ I do not just mean ‘appearance’. I mean all the engineering and
industrial design which goes into a product from the idea stage to the pro-
duction stage, and which is so important in ensuring that it works, that it is
reliable, that it is good value, and that it looks good. In short, it is good
design which makes people buy products and which gives products a good
name. It is essential to the future of our industry. (Thatcher 1982b)
Thatcher’s use of design as a key industrial tool resonates with the New
Labour Government of 1997–2010, under Tony Blair, and its use of cre-
ative industries (‘Cool Britannia’) as a strident policy area, in which
‘design’ and the ‘creative economy’ co-evolved. Whilst Churchill and
Thatcher had both framed design as a key policy vector for growing the
economy in the national interest (a feature also present during 1997–2003),
the new Labour Government for the first time drew wider public interest
in the value creation associated with other nebulous and hidden aspects of
arts and culture, arguing that these should be part of the mainstream and
emerging new economy (see DCMS 2001). In practice, the new Labour
approach was an intensification of Thatcher’s policies developed through-
out the 1980s, but the explicit promotion of ‘design thinking’ as a valu-
able and new aspect of the economy from 1997 onwards reflects a new
attitudinal approach to its role and a move away from engineering value
into objects towards value potential in a wider range of activities, espe-
cially services.
In collaboration with the Design Council (formerly Council of
Industrial Design, and named The Design Centre from 1956), the New
Labour Government launched an initiative in the form of a competition,
202 D. HEAP AND C. COLES
to find the best of British design, which would come to furnish the
Millennium Dome in London from 2000. Of the 4000 or so products and
services entered into the competition, 1012 were ultimately awarded the
coveted ‘Millennium Product Status’ and promoted as exemplary British
designs. As Blair stated:
These are world-beating designs that will help improve the quality of our
lives and give economy the edge over our competitors. (Blair 1998)
Utterback et al. (2006) note in their research that only 19 per cent of
the companies awarded the Millennium Product Status had an in-house
designer, a design team, or engaged a consultant designer. In other words,
81 per cent of the products and services promoted as the best of British
design were in fact not designed by designers. This is all the more remark-
able given the shift in thinking at this time towards ‘Design Management’
and the primacy of design within business—involving communication
between the different departments in an organisation (e.g. production,
finance, marketing, sales) to synthesise design information from the incep-
tion of a product through to its eventual completion (see Jerrard and
Hands 2008).
Although often seen as suffering somewhat from a perceived lack of
clarity in definition,1 the philosophies of design management from the
1980s onwards were nonetheless championed by the Design Management
Unit of the London Business School through a series of influential lectures
and seminars by Peter Gorb. Gorb was a firm believer in the strategic
importance of design (management) and saw the structured control of
design in organisations as a vital and frequently underutilised resource that
adds value to a business (see Jerrard and Hands 2008). For example, Peter
Gorb and Angela Dumas investigated the ‘organisational place of design’
from 1987 onwards, in which their main objective was to reach beyond
anecdotal evidence surrounding best practice in design, and discover what
constituted design as ‘general practice’. Their research was seminal in dis-
covering: ‘all aspects of the business where design is utilised’ and identified
how the ‘enterprise organises itself to make best use of design’ (Gorb and
Dumas, 1987, p. 151); in doing so beginning to understand how the
1
Oxymoronically, design is often seen as an unstructured and risky practice, whereas man-
agement is based on control and predictability.
10 SILENT DESIGN AND THE BUSINESS VALUE OF CREATIVE IDEAS 203
activities of design flow between, and receive input from, the various peo-
ple and departments in a firm.
Working within their own narrow working definition of design as, ‘a
course of action for the development of an artefact or a system of artefacts,
including the series of organisational activity required to achieve that
development’ (ibid., p. 151) (reflecting their assumption that product
development pervades industrial organisations), Gorb and Dumas were
concerned with the development of a series of design matrices in case
study companies, which highlighted the role of covert activities. These
covert activities or ‘silent design’ as they termed them, are seen as actions
within an organisation that are not called design and are carried out by
individuals who are not considered designers. Gorb and Dumas noted
silent design as staff (often middle managers in larger firms) undertaking
certain activities unaware of their importance to overall design and prod-
uct development. Interestingly, Gorb and Dumas surmised that these indi-
viduals often made decisions viewed as more appropriate and important to
the design process than those of the actual designers. The relatively
uncomplicated realisation by Gorb and Dumas that much design in com-
panies was undertaken by ‘non-designers’ has been further explored over
the years, and provides a context in the following section, which explores
some key developments in the understanding of who does design in
businesses.
with for example, Brøgger and Jevnaker (2014) expanding the idea of
what constitutes design in two further ways: (1) how design is done and
(2) where it can take place. Brøgger and Jevnaker use the term ‘waremak-
ing’ to frame the expanse of influences that ultimately lead to the realisa-
tion of a ‘ware’ or product. The authors see waremaking as not only
machine-made things, but also critically items that incorporate physical
interaction; something akin to Craft, where designing and making blur.
This leads to things that are richly ‘personalised’ and thus, in some way,
bare the mark of the maker, not only physically but also tacitly (or silently).
Moreover, Brøgger and Jevnaker see the design space as being well beyond
the design studio or design department. Not unlike Heap (2008) who
witnesses casual, but highly important, design-centred ideas and informa-
tion being circulated around businesses through the ‘corridor conversa-
tions’ of employees, which echoes the research of Brøgger and Jevnaker
who frequently witnessed non-designer interactions, daily experimenta-
tion, conjecture and backstage conversations in and between design proj-
ects. Further still, the authors include wholesale, retailing, product
demonstrating and selling in their sphere of design input, along with the
manipulation of the design space, noting:
(1) The Makers—the factory shop floor staff, the people in the firm that
machined parts, assembled components and finished-off ‘show’ wood,
upholstery and fittings were frequently making adjustments to furniture
designs. The motivation for these changes varied; sometimes changes
made assembly easier, other times adjustments were made to ease the pro-
cesses of manufacture, and on some occasions, changes and adjustments
were made because the original design did not work. On one occasion, an
order for several chairs that had not been produced for some years came in
to the company. The shop floor staff set about machining components,
reactivating the original jigs that helped assemble the components and
prepare the finishing items. Midway through assembling the first chair, the
process came to a sudden halt; some components would not fit together.
Several attempts to re-machine parts of the chair had no effect; when the
components were placed in the jig, they would not align to the point they
could be fixed in place. The solution to the problem came about through
a casual corridor conversation with a member of the transport team.
Several years earlier, this employee had worked on the shop floor and
recalled making this particular chair. What is more, he remembered the
same problem of component non-alignment, with the problem lying with
the assembly jig, which had not been made correctly. To overcome the
problem, the assemblers took a hammer to the jig and knocked parts of it
into shape every time it was used, so that the components aligned and the
chair could be made. The solution was never communicated to the design
team, so the problem persisted until the next time the chair was to be made.
This manipulation of the jig had resulted in changing the way the chair
was produced, but probably more significantly, had resulted in a slight
change in the chair’s aesthetic. As one employee notes ‘shop floor staff
knew they were making adjustments to the design but never considered it
especially significant’—‘it just kept things moving on’. Moreover, these
modifications took place unseen by the company’s managers.
(2) The Quality Controllers—Similar design adjustments were revealed
through observations of, and discussions with, the quality control supervi-
sor in Company A’s upholstery department. The supervisor described
how he frequently instructed the upholsterers to make changes to the way
in which items of furniture were upholstered. His instructions were based
on practical issues as well as aesthetics based on experience: ‘I have an eye
for what looks best and know how to finish off’. He rationalised his
instructions and adjustments through his belief that the design specifica-
tions he received often, ‘left a great deal of information un-specified’, and
10 SILENT DESIGN AND THE BUSINESS VALUE OF CREATIVE IDEAS 209
felt his job was to ‘interpret many of the design specifications and com-
plete the design’ as he saw appropriate. However, as with the shop floor
workers, he rarely, if at all, conveyed his adjustments back to the design
team so they could be used on future furniture designs. Moreover, simi-
larly to the machinists, his design interactions were unsought and unbe-
known to the design office.
(3) The Purchasers—the purchasing team was composed of three people
located in an unimposing office on the shop floor and were collectively
responsible for sourcing, negotiating a price for and procuring materials,
fittings, machines, tools and components that went into making the com-
pany’s furniture. On the face of it, the purchaser’s connection to anything
design-related was at best tenuous. However, the availability, delivery tim-
escales and volumes of items purchased had a significant ‘knock on’ effect
for the design office. This was confirmed by Company A’s Design Manager
on several occasions when describing ‘having to make changes to design
because certain materials and the like could not be obtained’. The inter-
esting aspect of this observation and what makes it a convincing example
of silent design is how unaware the purchasing staff were of the impact
they could have on the design and development of furniture products.
When asked, they felt their impact on the design process was ‘negligible’
because they felt ‘distanced’ from the products; in fact, most of the time
never seeing finished items, and certainly never having any physical con-
tact with the furniture, they found it difficult to appreciate their impact on
designs. In a similar vein, purchasing activities were not directed by the
design team (they were unsought), and in most instances, they went about
their purchasing activities unknown (and unseen) by the Company’s
Design Manager. As we argue, these silent changes serve to change a
designer’s original concept (for worse or better) and therefore introduce
the question of ownership and credit, which in commercial terms is gov-
erned by ‘intellectual property’.
the UK—and as far back as the English Statute of Anne, 1709—the key
objective of intellectual property law has been to control and recognise the
value that exists within the expression of creativity by preventing its wider
unauthorised use. In other words, to protect the right to make copies
(literally the ‘copyright’) of the elaborate illustrative designs within reli-
gious books. This is a critical point in the context of the creative economy
since from the start, the protection was concerned with the recorded item
and not the original ideas, and given the influential nature of British law,
this ‘protectionist’ stance spread throughout the western world through
the momentum of post-Enlightenment and Industrialisation, manifest in
the International Convention of Berne, in 1886, concerned with copy-
rights, and the International Convention of Paris in 1883, concerned with
industrial design.2 These Conventions were seen as critical given the
impending impact and risks inherent in internationalisation—and moneti-
sation—of innovative ideas. Both Conventions set minimum requirements
for the existences of IP rights that became widely used and harmonised,
and embedded into national laws, as reflected in the World Trade
Organisation’s General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade.
In a contemporary context, the valuation of so-called creations of the
mind is like any other property right. They allow creators or owners of
patent, trademark, design or copyright works to benefit from their own
work or investment in a creation. These rights are outlined in Article 27 of
the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, which provides for the right
to benefit from the production of moral and material interests, resulting
from authorship of scientific, literary or artistic productions. Goodridge
et al.’s research (2014) on the valuation of these ‘creations of the mind’
indicates that UK investment in intangible assets such as intellectual prop-
erty, workplace training and non-scientific R&D exceeds that in fixed
assets (£137 bn investment in intangible assets in 2008, compared to
£104 bn for fixed assets). Global licenses in the patent and creative indus-
tries alone have exploded; worth more than £600 bn annually (Hargreaves
2011) with some estimations that 84 per cent of the value of assets in the
top 500 businesses in the US are ‘intangible’ (Ocean Tomo 2015).
There are some inevitable and increasingly apparent problems, which
arise from valorising designs and ‘creations’ as intellectual property. Whilst
WIPO, as an agency of the United Nations, is the global forum for
2
Convention of Paris for the Protection of Industrial Property 20th March 1883. Berne
Convention for the Protection of Literary and Artistic Works, 9th September 1886.
10 SILENT DESIGN AND THE BUSINESS VALUE OF CREATIVE IDEAS 211
Copyright Infringement
Firstly, the turmoil can be seen within copyright law itself, that exists in
technical drawings, computer software or databases, where the ‘original-
ity’ does not require an element of ‘newness’ from existing work or be
required to carry the common symbol ©, as the key test for the existence
of potential value and a warning against copying. Secondly, is the issue of
‘subconscious copying’, which has been exposed most commonly through
law cases—for example, Thicke’s 2013 hit ‘Blurred Lines’, which a court
found copied Marvin Gaye’s ‘Got to Give it Up’, and H&M’s (2015)
legal action against Forever 21 for a copyright infringement of its ‘Beach
Please’ tote bag. Such examples highlight the vagaries of working practices
in creative areas and of the need to record design creations and the routes
to design changes, including the inspiration and the creative talent from
all participants in the process. Traditionally, emphasis has focused on the
original designer, noting the insight and experiences that originate with
the designer if the design is new, and the ultimate user. This is exacerbated
by some common industrial myths such as ‘5 changes to a fashion design
212 D. HEAP AND C. COLES
Remix Culture
The second deeper element that challenges the foundations of intellectual
property is that of the ‘Remix Culture’ or the free movement culture,
which finds the basis of IP rights and ownership, utterly unsuitable for a
modern digital culture that uses alternative senses of value via an ability to
share assets through peer-to-peer file sharing. Lessig (2008) argues for
example, that creative groups have found a new way of working involving
digital sharing and mash-ups that support their creativity and that the
criminality of copyright infringement law is too ‘heavy-handed’ and which
here we argue is overly rigid and austere. Whilst his focus is largely on the
artistic elements of IP, Rostama (2015) writing for the WIPO, acknowl-
edges that such communal sharing in creative production has a longer
history that many imagine and ‘mash-ups’ would be protected currently
under the global defence that actions ‘do not unreasonably prejudice the
interest of the legitimate rights holder’ (Art 9 Berne 1886). At the same
time, Rostama (opt. cit) concedes that there is uncertainty in this area as
evidenced by the long running dispute of Lenz vs. Universal Music. This
is particularly problematic where individuals hold personal ethical views of
communal sharing, consistent with the ‘free culture movement’ and col-
laborate in the field of industrial design, which is subject to commercial
and legal parameters of intellectual property ownership (see Koutras 2016).
10 SILENT DESIGN AND THE BUSINESS VALUE OF CREATIVE IDEAS 213
designers, who have emerged and honed their design skills within a free
culture movement entailing the wholesale sharing of ideas and designs, for
example, Peer-to-Peer (P2P) file sharing, social media and open access
channels, and where creative value can emerge through a complex web of
open innovation (involving users and customers), from mash-ups, and
from sampling. There are several ways to view this. The role of the free
culture movement needs to be fully appreciated in commercial terms for
its impact in supporting and producing design value. At the same time,
there is the risk that where individuals do not wish to record or own their
creative contributions, the potential value will be lost and limited to, for
example, a personal media record or social media event, whilst the route
of intellectual property rights may be perceived as the reserve of the elite.
We conclude by arguing that the current commercial and legal schema in
which valorisation occurs requires further consideration, resulting in more
nuanced frameworks and tools.
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10 SILENT DESIGN AND THE BUSINESS VALUE OF CREATIVE IDEAS 215
Rachel Granger
Introduction
In this chapter, the value produced from creative performance in collective
spaces and processes is examined by drawing on creative relationships and
networks. For some, the city can be read as a series of bounded spaces,
socio-political and dialectical tensions, sites of linguistic or material devel-
opment and representation or even as places of historical significance. In
this chapter, the creative city is read through its people and their interrela-
tionships, and the main message offered is that this provides a rich and
more nuanced view of creative economic performance as a live action.
Drawing on relational economics and the New Economic Geography,
the chapter positions value in the creative economy firmly as economic
value, but also as socially constructed value, created, mediated and vali-
dated by a series of actors and agencies, some performing as intermediaries.
In this, it is recognised that creative performance is shaped, and ultimately
R. Granger (*)
De Montfort University, Leicester, UK
e-mail: rachel.granger@dmu.ac.uk
1
Nesta is a UK innovation foundation.
2
SIC 2007 is the current Standard Industrial Classification (SIC) used in the UK to classify
a business establishment and other statistical unit by the type of economic activity it engages in.
11 THE HIDDEN VALUE OF UNDERGROUND NETWORKS… 219
the way data is collated from tax returns and the current taxable threshold
(£85,000 in the UK) exacerbates the data deficit for the creative economy.
As a result, cities rich in (creative) micro businesses can be at best misrep-
resented, and at worst omitted in official economic statistics such the UK’s
Business Register and Employment Survey, as has been remarked in
Leicester by Granger (2017b). There is further disquiet when these same
datasets play a pivotal role in policy design and resource allocation either
directly through, for example, the work of Department for Culture Media
and Sports (DCMS) or through the influence of stakeholder and funding
organisations who rely on this same data.
The second area of concern relates to what meaningfully can be deduced
from business location mapping in such datasets. The location of a business
can be based on a number of decisions, including taxation, costs and avail-
ability of factor inputs, and customers. In some parts of the literature and in
public policy, it has become commonplace to take that location, especially
co-location, as inferring inter-trading (e.g. Bakhshi and Mateos- Gacria
2016; Mateos-Garcia 2010) so that concentrations of businesses are elevated
to ‘clusters’, ‘learning regions’ or ‘innovation systems’ despite exhibiting
very different tendencies. Clusters in particular have been noted as favour-
able sites rich in knowledge and transfer as a result of their urban agglomera-
tion and localisation economies (Storper and Christopherson 1987; Pinch
et al. 2004), and which emphasise (and differentiate) the importance of
traded and untraded interdependencies (Storper 1995). Yet in practice, co-
location of companies may not result in inter-trading or indeed the type of
interdependencies, which typically result in value-added activities, knowl-
edge transfer or pooling of resources seen as pivotal to economic growth.
More recently and in an attempt to fill the apparent vacuum, attention
has been paid to the spatiality—(social) spaces—in which knowledge and
innovation occurs as a process, and to places that enable valuable links that
support such knowledge-seeking aspects of innovation and advance.
‘Acting as territorialised expressions of a resource-based view of relation-
ships and linkages, un-traded interdependencies are mediated through the
market as well as social conventions’ (Powers 2013, p. 2). As Faulconbridge
(2017) notes, these twin aspects have contributed to the development of
relational perspectives in economic studies—noted as the relational turn—
in which the focus has fallen upon ‘economic and social relations, pro-
cesses of organizing, problem solving and innovation, as well on the
creation of informal and formal institutions’ (Bathelt and Gluckler 2005,
p. 1546, in Faulconbridge 2017, p. 1).
220 R. GRANGER
3
FLOKK is a digital platform created by Leicester to monitor sector networks (https://
flokk.online).
222 R. GRANGER
4
An intra-operability quotient is a measure of the degree of interaction within a sector, as
a proportion of all intrasectoral interactions in the region, while an inter-operability quotient
is a measure of the degree of interaction between a sector and other sectors, as a proportion
of interactions in the region, nation and other sectors (see Box 11.1).
Table 11.1 Sector interactions in Leicester ecosystem (817 organisations)
Sector ii
(Links from Creative Digital Smart Construc Transport/ Manufac Science/ Services Adminis Invest Educa Health Retail Visitor Commu Sub- IOQ2
sector i, to economy economy tion/ Logistics turing R&D tration ment tion economy nity & total (intra)
sector ii) Engineer Third
ing Sector
Sector i
Creative 496 110 0 4 10 4 4 50 63 48 136 4 30 21 34 1014 1.37
economy
Digital 110 132 6 0 2 4 10 46 32 32 58 2 2 2 4 442 0.836
Smart 16 2 63 0 2 12 6 26 18 31 18 2 0 4 3 203 0.8292
economy
Construction/ 4 2 6 43 0 6 0 6 16 0 4 0 2 2 2 93 1.295
Engineering
Transport/ 16 2 0 8 51 4 2 26 17 0 2 0 4 8 4 144 0.992
Logistics
Manufacturing 16 12 2 9 8 81 26 10 8 20 16 4 6 8 6 232 0.9779
Science/R&D 4 10 0 2 0 2 80 10 4 20 38 0 0 4 0 174 1.287
Services 32 4 6 8 6 9 8 44 24 28 44 4 14 6 10 247 0.498
Administration 12 2 0 0 2 2 8 6 31 0 47 2 4 14 0 130 0.6679
Investment 2 18 0 0 2 2 10 0 4 4 0 0 4 0 8 54 0.207
Education 62 20 14 0 2 6 4 22 44 8 142 0 2 8 21 355 1.1203
Health 16 2 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 6 4 0 0 2 34 0.3295
Retail 18 4 4 0 4 4 0 10 6 0 24 0 6 11 0 91 0.1846
Visitor 10 0 0 0 12 0 2 8 12 0 24 0 10 8 2 88 0.2546
economy
Community & 32 2 4 0 0 0 0 4 28 4 44 6 4 18 71 217 0.91644
Third Sector
Sub-total 846 322 90 74 101 136 160 272 307 195 603 28 88 114 167 3518
224 R. GRANGER
Inter-operability Coefficient
• measure of the degree of interaction between a sector and
other sectors, as a proportion of interactions in the region,
nation and other sectors.
Where:
Int = Interactions
s = sector
r = region
n = nation
ΣInt = Total reference area interactions
Intra-operability Coefficient
• measure of the degree of interaction within a sector, as a pro-
portion of intrasectoral interactions in the region.
Where:
Also of note are the links recorded between creative/digital sectors and
educational (194 interactions) and administrative (95) arms of the econ-
omy, which infer a proactive creative and digital industry, which is engag-
ing on knowledge and policy issues. On the one hand this is not surprising
given the size of the creative economy in Leicester (estimated to be 34,000
workers by Granger (2017a)) and also that Leicestershire is home to three
11 THE HIDDEN VALUE OF UNDERGROUND NETWORKS… 225
major universities and three significant further education colleges, all with
major creative faculties. On the other hand, it does highlight some incon-
gruities, especially in terms of conventional thinking on the way value is
constructed in the creative economy, and the role of universities and gov-
ernment in this process.
In the New Economic Geography literature, knowledge transfer rela-
tionships between higher education and other sectors are framed as axi-
omatic, and reflect an economy’s desire to operate as a learning city or
region (Asheim 2007), innovation system (Morgan 1997; Lundvall 1994;
Cooke et al. 2014; Jensen et al. 2007), Helix (Etzkowitz 1994; Leydesdorff
and Etzkowitz 1998) and/or cluster (Porter 1990; Fujita 1988; Fujita
and Thisse 2002), and where learning is framed as the key resource. In the
trilateral relationship of a Helix Model in particular, universities have a
central primacy given their knowledge and research capabilities, which are
framed as capital for economic growth. Such constructs usefully express
the notion of interaction and network between public and private agents
that allow for the rapid diffusion and exploitation of knowledge, skills and
best practice in a locality, and where universities have a key role to play.
One might expect therefore that empirical data would show a strong rela-
tional network in university cities, and depict strong links from university
towards industry. Yet, in Leicester, the interactions recorded through
FLOKK depict weaker relations from university towards the creative econ-
omy (82) comparative to interactions from industry towards education
(194), which is replicated in those from industry towards administration
(63) (see also Fig. 11.1). Given the varied nature of higher education in
Fig. 11.1 A sector-relational map of creative and digital sectors, Leicester (2018)
226 R. GRANGER
less than 5% (4.6%) for creative staff in universities. Upon further analysis,
universities appear to be engaged in a number of practices with creative
workers (e.g. 92.1% organising guest speakers, 87.5% organising place-
ments, 20.3% organising new projects), but do not resemble the type of
formal knowledge transfer activity presupposed in clusters and Helixes
(see ante).
Given the very high number of graduates operating in Leicester’s cre-
ative economy, it seems probable that creative practitioners are familiar
with, and even value, universities and the way in which they can generate
and transfer relevant knowledge for industry, but there is not the forward
and backward (university-to-business) linkages in Leicester, nor the spill-
overs, or embeddedness with university institutions that one would expect.
Reflecting further on this, interviewees were asked, ‘where does your
organisation secure new knowledge for innovation?’ to which 93 practitio-
ners (89.4%) indicated that ‘new knowledge’ was found principally within
the industry, while 87 respondents (83.6%) cited the importance of cus-
tomers in the innovation process. In other words, knowledge transfer for
innovation in Leicester’s creative industries comes from within the indus-
try, recognisable as ‘competitors’, ‘critical friends’ and ‘peers’, and which
supports the earlier calculation of a high ‘intra-operability quotient’.
Participants also noted the integral role of ‘customers’ in the innovation
process, supporting the ontological argument that consumers play an
intrinsic role in value production in creative spheres.
Why is it that these creative businesses, large in number, diverse in size
and sub-sector, buoyant in turnover and recruitment and highly skilled at
their core should be so disconnected from Leicestershire’s higher educa-
tion system, which collectively specialises in creative activity?5 One possi-
ble reason might be that Leicester’s local universities are deployed in
Mode 1 rather than Mode 2 knowledge production with regards to cre-
ative industries, meaning that university research on creative industries is
largely out of sync with local business needs. A second argument is that
Leicester’s ecosystem lacks the type of spaces and soft institutions needed
to germinate genuine university-industry interplay, preventing businesses
from anchoring new knowledge created in higher education. A third pos-
sible argument is that businesses rely on soft knowledge transfer through
other mediums such as turnover of staff, freelance portfolio work from
university staff or through other external pipelines, thereby negating the
5
De Montfort University, University of Leicester, Loughborough University.
11 THE HIDDEN VALUE OF UNDERGROUND NETWORKS… 229
and third sector organisations (Table 11.3). One notes the large number
of organisations conducting research (18), offering business and skills sup-
port (30) and also space for networking (48) which serves the city and
surrounding areas with both the talent and infrastructure for creative
11 THE HIDDEN VALUE OF UNDERGROUND NETWORKS… 231
work. Whilst it could be argued that the research capacity of some organ-
isations is softer in nature than novelty-producing research, the picture
painted is of a rich creative ecosystem in combination.
worker explains: ‘The City’s Business Growth Team [Collaborate] have been
excellent but there’s only so much they can do. They offer generic business
advice, whereas we are living and breathing in specialist business areas, which
are acutely competitive, and the best advice can only come from within; from
the people who have survived those same kind of pressures’. A leading figure in
Leicester offers further clarification: ‘the global financial crisis has had lon-
ger term impacts on the landscape in which we must now operate, and the
Brexit Referendum has compounded the situation by cutting off main routes
of funding and investment that we need. The changes meted out by institu-
tions have transformed the business landscape here, which us as businesses have
had no choice but to respond to. We mentor, support, and invest, in our sector
and our neighbours, first because they need our support and without us they
might succumb to the pressures of the market, but second because we have a
vested interest in Leicester’s creative city blossoming’. These comments are
supported to some extent by the high levels of intra-relationships occur-
ring within creative and digital sectors and noted by FLOKK (Table 11.1).
While there is perhaps a rationale for self-serving the sector to support
potential clients (creative industries are both producers and consumers), it
is unclear why the sector serves from within rather than externally towards
higher education as a major stakeholder.
One possible reason lies in the way value is constructed and mediated,
and the changes that have occurred within higher education. The financial
upheaval from the 2007 Banking Crisis imperilled national economies and
has ushered in new business models, new ways of financing and investing
and also new actors and stakeholders. Higher education has introduced
new business models, most notably in terms of student fees, which are
likely to be reduced and capped, but which have rendered formal degree
courses an expensive option. The introduction of new providers such as
Echo Factory (providing degrees accredited by Wolverhampton
University), Curve Theatre (in arts and business degrees), My Graphic
Design School (MGDS), Two Queens Studio, Spark Arts and SEED
Creative Academy to name but a few, provides a diversity of options for
creative and digital practitioners. To this, one might add the training pro-
vision through specialist maker spaces such as the Clay Room, Print
Workshop and Art Studios, and the indirect training and support on offer
through networks (e.g. Creative Coffee, CREATE, TEDx Leicester).
As one practitioner argues ‘Why would I pay to listen to somebody lecture
me [at university] about creative practice and research, when I can sign-up
for a short course with a local expert, or talk to experts for free in my local
coffee shop, or sound out ideas at a city event, or a tenanted co-working space
11 THE HIDDEN VALUE OF UNDERGROUND NETWORKS… 233
and do the research myself?’ This idea of internal, shared access to knowl-
edge resources is expanded on in feedback from another respondent: ‘De
Montfort University are doing some interesting work in sound technology but
not as interesting as my own work. Most of my work these days is in America
and the ideas coming from there are emerging so quickly that we are at the
edge of change in our industry. The best ideas come from talking to others on
trans-Atlantic projects, which I then use to seed local projects or help those I
mentor. These guys are experts in everything—not just one field but several.
[…] I touch base with people from the university through direct conversations
or at networking events, and in some cases when they are in Grays [coffee
shop]. I’m happy to pass on new ideas to the university in the same way I do
with new start-ups. Having a support network and a group of pals in the
same line of work is really useful for updating skills and keeping abreast of
new ideas, as well as keeping on top of new talent coming through, and
enabling the local creative scene to move forward’.
In both accounts, the notion of value is strong. There is a palpable
sense of financial value (value for money) and the opportunity costs of
taking a formal degree course at university in the first quote. In the second
quote, the sense of value in terms of ‘worth’ or ‘relevance’ comes to the
fore, and evokes power in authenticating and valorising the worth of pro-
vision. Drawing on De Propris and Mwaura (2013) and De Propris (2019)
as well as wider work on cultural intermediaries, one might begin to posi-
tion some of the key actors in Leicester’s creative economy—and perhaps
some of the interviewees—as exerting power in ‘legitimising’ (defining
value), ‘mediating’ (allowing for new constructions) and ‘enabling’ new
value to be created through local social spaces.
As Perry et al. (2015, p. 726) note: ‘little attention has been given to
analysis of the working practices of cultural workers who operate in diverse
professionalised and everyday cultural ecologies. The wider set of political,
social and moral motivations of cultural workers have been often over-
looked, particularly those that seek not only to advance their own interests
but also to develop connections with excluded, marginalised or disadvan-
taged communities […]. There is a gap in understanding this “other”
form of cultural work and its potential to mediate between different values
in the creative economy’.
236 R. GRANGER
enabler of local projects and also bridging sub-sectors, projects and actors
in a more strategic role. As one participant notes ‘Ben has his ears on the
ground and is the person who knows what is good for the sector, and what we
should be looking out for. More recently, Ben has started to be more profession-
ally acquainted with “Cats Are Not Peas” and mark my words, Alex [the
founder] will be the next big player in the city’.
A similar pattern is also noted for ‘Leicester Interchange’, ‘TEDx
Leicester’ and ‘Solvers Studio’, who are all operated by ‘Carl Quinn’.
Carl’s extensive links in the community and expertise in social innovation
as well as arts-based training allow him to mediate between the cultural
world of practitioners (artists, film makers, designers), traditional cultural
intermediaries (such as art establishments, Royal Society for Arts), strate-
gic stakeholders (such as universities, local government, LCB Depot) and
community groups. He operates seamlessly between these different
spheres of the economy, and as one interviewee notes ‘connects disparate
parts of the economy in a way single-focused actors and organisations cannot’
and ‘in a bridging role that cascades and connects information, while at the
same time, anchoring projects and people to create a sticky creative environ-
ment, much of which happens away from public view but is unrivalled locally’.
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Introduction
The aim of this chapter is to shed light on the generation and transforma-
tion of values through the production and consumption of Let’s Play (LP),
as an area of practice in the creative economy. Let’s Play has emerged from
the practice of machinima, ‘animated filmmaking within a real-time virtual
3D environment’ (Marino 2004, p. 1), and is referred to as ‘non-narrative
machinima’ (Menotti 2014, p. 81). The phenomenon typically takes the
form of video game walk-throughs, reviews and other gameplay videos
T. Harwood (*)
Department of Digital Culture, Institute of Creative Technologies,
De Montfort University, Leicester, UK
e-mail: tharwood@dmu.ac.uk
J. Boomer
SideFest, Leicester, UK
e-mail: jason.boomer@sidefest.co.uk
T. Garry
Department of Marketing, University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand
e-mail: tony.garry@otago.ac.nz
that are often live-streamed over the internet to fan followers and archived
in curated playlists. The practice of making LP is now a mass cultural
endeavour, largely described by industry stakeholders such as game devel-
opers and publishers as a form of ‘user-generated content’. Whilst this
form of user-generated content will become increasingly pivotal to the
digital economy (Terranova 2000; Lessig 2008; Tapscott 2008;
Hesmondhalgh 2010) and to new emergent forms such as Twitch.tv
(Shontell 2014), the value of such remains largely undocumented.
As a creative sub-culture of gaming, with a distinct community of prac-
tice and intellectual property (IP) (Dredge 2014), little is understood about
players’ behaviour and motivations for generating content or value associ-
ated with the community, as well as the relationship between creators, those
who follow and its impacts on business stakeholders. Content is inherently
a derivative of IP owned by computer video games developers and publish-
ers, and as such it adheres to the Game Content Usage Rights (or similar)
outlined by IP rights owners (Hayes 2008). Rights require creators to dis-
tribute their content freely but allow them to monetise their content as part
of advertising revenue sharing programmes, such as YouTube’s Partner
Program (Google, n.d.). Through these programmes, advertisements are
included in video content, with revenue split between the distributing plat-
form (e.g. YouTube) and the creator, thus there appears to be a significant
economic driver from businesses to engage this community in a creative
process. The process challenges the notion of LP as form of free labour for
businesses, given the advertising revenue generated clearly represents eco-
nomic value for the creator and the social networking platform. What is
unclear, however, are the types of value derived from the process. This chap-
ter contributes by presenting a framework and empirical evidence through
which the LP community may be better understood. It is the dynamic rela-
tionship between the value components and the analysis of how and why
value is generated and transformed within the LP community that form the
primary contribution of this empirical study. The chapter is organised into
two key parts. The chapter first provides a conceptual framework for under-
standing value in the context of LP before presenting findings of an LP case
study, and drawing wider conclusions for discourse on cultural value.
as legitimate’ (p. 17). Bolin (2012) argues against the use of capital over
value, suggesting that ‘[i]f value is defined as the worth of a thing, […] it
follows that this worth can be of other kinds than mere economic’ (p. 33).
Through an exploration of value, evidence of social influence may be rein-
forced by the potential elevation to celebrity status, whereby creators of
LP content occupy a position between the video game IP owners and their
target market, assuming the position of an unofficial brand advocate.
Drawing on the themes of a video game as an interactive, immersive
virtual experience, a video game can be defined as ‘… a specific kind of
digital entertainment in which the gamer interacts with a digital interface
and is faced with challenges of various kinds, depending on the plot of the
game’ (Zackariasson and Wilson 2012, p. 5). Regardless of the type of
video game (e.g. first person shooter and fantasy role play), they are sepa-
rate from the real world yet have a common language, rituals and expecta-
tions which Huizinga (1949) has referred to as a magic circle. While
Huizinga predates computer video gaming, his ideas on rules and perfor-
mance of an act are pertinent. The rules refer to norms, for example, the
codes of conduct for participation, whereas the performance is an intel-
lectual or imaginative work, emanating from the behaviours, strategies
and player-performance required to adapt in the changing environment.
Newman (2008) suggests there is an ‘inherently social, productive and
creative nature [to] these cultures that surround and support videogam-
ing’ (p. vii). This intimates an almost instinctual integration of culture into
the self whereby language, behaviour and patterns of thinking are shared
and internalised over time, shaping the ways that community members
emerge and interact through practice (Wenger 2000; Henri and Pudelko
2003). This is not so much about value-in-exchange between the game
developer and the game player (Toffler 1980) but is typical of the shift to
recognising value-in-use (e.g. Vargo and Lusch 2008; Ritzer and Jurgenson
2010), where the game becomes an ‘operant’ resource to the player,
becoming integrated by the player in their experiences. LP therefore rep-
resents a contemporary social, productive and creative form within video
gaming culture, where hacking and modding (modifying content) is often
observed in the prosumption practices of its community (Toffler 1980).
As the popularity of the LP phenomenon has grown since its emer-
gence in 2005 (see Klepek 2015) with a global forecast of 500 million
views of content in 2016 (see Statista.com), the potential impact is its
potential benefit to businesses as well as the players, the latter particularly
in terms of adoption of work-like digital skills among the community of
practice members (see Wenger 2000; Payne 2011; Menotti 2014).
246 T. HARWOOD ET AL.
(2012) suggest, the act of joining and participating in social networks such
as Facebook results in the generation of distinct forms of value for differ-
ent parties. Examples of value in the LP community may therefore exist as
social value through networking and collaboration; cultural value through
learning and development of advanced production techniques, and devel-
opment of work-like skills; economic value through advertising revenue
and merchandising; and symbolic value, in the ability to develop an audi-
ence and inspire them to action. The notion of value transformation in
such a context is tantalising: how might an organisation such as a game
developer capture and (re-)use the types of value a phenomenon such as
LP generates? Value is continually shaped and transformed by its context,
for example, changes or mutations are influenced by historical, sociologi-
cal and geographical influences where something of value in one time-
space setting will have different value in other settings (e.g. Cova and
Paranque 2016; Jafari 2017).
It is through prosumption activities (Toffler 1980; Fiske 2010) that LP
attains an elevated status with the community, where symbolic value is
derived from numbers of followers (converted through views of content).
The development of an audience may, however, be only one objective for
a community member: Crane and Sornette (2008) identify two methods
of promotion of social networking platforms: content being exogenic (i.e.
promoted by LP players) or endogenic (i.e. discovered by the audience).
Thus, the mode of engagement influences the lifetime popularity of the
content that in turn, determines the types of value generated through
playbour, and the potential for its capture and transformation by the firm.
By engaging in collaborative works, and providing regular and reliable
content, LP players may also transfer value through the process of build-
ing extended reputation, providing their collaborators with significant
influence over a community of followers, such as that attributed to a role
of opinion leadership (Katz and Lazarsfeld 1955; Robinson 1976) in a
word-of-mouth marketing context (see Trustov et al. 2009). Furthermore,
there is a continuous flow of information from game developers to the
prosumer through ongoing game development processes, which collec-
tively highlight the dual importance of mass media and interpersonal
influence (Baksy et al. 2011) as resources are absorbed by each party, re-
used and further value generated in an iterative process. This is sum-
marised in Fig. 12.1. Several articles have sought to apply this in the
context of the digital age (Potter 2007; Dennis 2008; Weaver 2008; Baksy
et al. 2011).
248 T. HARWOOD ET AL.
Methodology
This research sought to explore the ways in which participants (LP play-
ers) immerse themselves in the game sub-cultures and communities of
interest to generate value. In order to address the research aim, a mixed
methods qualitative design was used (Schwandt 1999; Husserl 1980) that
enabled the subjective nature of value-in-use inherent within the LP com-
munity to be explored (Bechmann and Lomborg 2012). The approach
generates rich insight (Geertz 1973) and allows for the extraction of
meaning from experiences (Farina 2014). This research also draws on the
prior experience of one of the authors within the community as a partici-
pant observer to the focal phenomenon. Netnography was used to evalu-
ate the online, social nature of LP (see Kozinets 2015) in conjunction with
semi-structured interviews. Participants were selected on the basis of their
involvement in the community. As Henri and Pudelko (2003) states, in
order for participants to be aware of gaming sub-cultures, they must be
active in the community of interest. Fiske (2010) has suggested this can be
in the form of communication with other community members as well as
the productive consumption of cultural texts (i.e. LPs). Thus, sampling
was purposive in design, based on the role of the community member as
an opinion leader alongside which a random selection of the ten most
recent examples of their creative work was selected (see Table 12.1).
Interviews were conducted via Skype, which enabled recording and
transcription for data analysis. Interviews focused on the circumstances
surrounding the establishment of the participants’ social media streaming
channels, and how much LP content participants viewed, how they col-
laborated with others, and the role of advertising, sponsors and subscrib-
ers. Participants were asked to reflect on the types of value they derived
from LP and how it was transformed through the creative development
processes they employed. In addition, content analysis of creative work
produced by participants (streamed videos) was used to evaluate the refer-
ences participants made to other texts, the common language and symbols
(see Peterson 1979; Krippendorff 1980) they used in their creative expres-
sion, as well as the sub-cultural references related to the specific game(s)
they used to create their content. The approach to community and brand
engagement undertaken by participants was also evaluated using the range
of social media platforms identified by participants during interviews.
Themes were allowed to emerge through analysis of the datasets and
this was then grouped in relation to four types of value (economic, sym-
12 VALUE TRANSFORMATION: FROM ONLINE COMMUNITY TO BUSINESS… 251
P1 69 3 years 4 months 4
P2 1,293,746 5 years 8 months 7
P3 18 3 months 4
P4 26 6 years 3 months 1
P5 66 4 years 10 months 6
P6 386,123 6 years 1 month 7
P7 55 2 years 8 months 4
Findings
Of the four value themes identified in the literature (economic, social,
cultural and symbolic value), two themes emerged from the dataset for
each type of value, resulting in eight themes in all. We next discuss each of
the value themes identified, focusing on how it was generated and used by
LP players and organisations.
Economic Value
Advertisements and merchandise were related to economic value.
Advertisements were often included as part of YouTube’s partner pro-
gramme, with content produced by the LP player being overlaid with the
advert. Economic value was derived from the cost-per-mille set by the
platform (e.g. $2/1000 views, Green 2015). Products such as t-shirts,
252 T. HARWOOD ET AL.
hats and event tickets were sold by the LP player to followers and subscrib-
ers and were evidence of merchandise.
Some participants demonstrated a clear focus on economic value as a
driver for content creation. This was evidenced through the inclusion of
advertisements and promotion of merchandise on their content videos.
For these participants, there was evidence of a decision-making process to
derive monetary income and focus on view count, enabling them to deter-
mine how and where to monetise their content and monitor its success.
Participants appeared to be directly responding to the business models
developed by platforms and games developers, as well as third party organ-
isations seeking to advertise their products and services by association with
the LP player content.
For others, the process of monetising their content was of lower per-
ceived value than the development of skills, considered to be a form of
cultural value. P2 comments: ‘If I ever couldn’t do this as a job anymore full
time, I would still make content…’. Whilst most participants had allowed
(multiple) advertisements to be associated with their content, they denied
economic value was the driver for creating work.
Some participants commented they did not find the economic value
derived from the LP process adequate for the contribution they felt their
work made to the community. It is most likely that advertising was used as
a means to generate a form of symbolic value, effectively helping them to
legitimise their work by association with a (platform-led) process, rather
than a specific brand advertiser. This is also evidenced by their frequent
participation in platform ‘partner’ schemes. Furthermore, one participant
claimed ‘… at the minute I don’t monetise, […] although that is in my
future plans’ (P3), suggesting economic value was used as part of a trans-
formative process to develop other value forms such as collaborative
opportunities (social value) and technical skillsets (cultural value). This
player commented value was derived from seeing the content enjoyed by
others: ‘[it is] for anyone who would watch it’ (P3).
Thus, evidence of economic value suggests that participants were aware
of the preliminary steps that needed to be taken to prepare for future
monetisation by focusing on viewing figures and profiling their work,
resulting in their elevated social status, collaborations and skills but the
process they adopted transformed economic value to symbolic, social and
cultural values.
12 VALUE TRANSFORMATION: FROM ONLINE COMMUNITY TO BUSINESS… 253
Symbolic Value
Symbolic value was identified in two themes related to subscription boxes
and calls to action. The subscription box was a form of overlay on content
and was used to indicate the LP player’s desire to boost their subscriber-
base. This highlighted their aim to develop an audience, and thus their
symbolic value. Calls to action were where the LP player encouraged the
viewer to ‘share’, ‘subscribe’, ‘comment’ or ‘visit the store’ to buy mer-
chandise through the content itself. This theme was therefore an attempt
to exert influence over the viewer. Symbolic value was embedded into
participants’ content. Evidence highlights how LP players customise their
work using ‘idents’ as branding for their content across multiple media
platforms. Participants stated that a focus on subscriber counts was for
them an indication of elevated status and influence over their target audi-
ence. In particular, their membership of the YouTube Creator Academy
was a mechanism they used to encourage collaboration and opinion shar-
ing among community members.
Whilst status established through numbers of followers was highlighted
as a focus, many participants did not consider their status within their tar-
get audience to be central to the success of their channels. These partici-
pants explain: ‘There is an ego related to YouTube … you do want people to
watch [your content]’ (P3) and ‘… sometimes people […] get engrossed in
the view-counts, the subscriber-counts […] sometimes it is greatly important’
(P4), however, as P5 suggests ‘… I might manage to turn my channel into
an actual thing if I get enough subscribers … if people have a lot of subscribers
then they have a track record, they’re a bit more committed’. It is the altruis-
tic nature of content creation that players determine elevates their status
within the community, as P2 states: ‘there are a lot of people that are almost
dependent on the content, and I kind of keep it going for them as well’. This
is reinforced by one participant who legitimises his position with content
that was created from a visit to a game developer, implying status through
superior knowledge and brand access.
Longevity in the community was also identified as a contributing factor
to let’s player success, as P5 states in relation to the level of engagement
with viewers: ‘… maybe I’m a little bit of a role model because I’ve been
doing it for so long’, albeit this participant has a relatively low subscriber-
base. Importantly, it is the stated desire to ‘make a career’ out of content
production that this participant perceived to be indicative of generating
254 T. HARWOOD ET AL.
Social Value
Social value was evidenced in themes relating to comments and replies and
collaborations and friends. Comments and replies indicated social engage-
ment with others in the LP community and reinforced the connection
between the LP player and their viewers. Collaborations were often evi-
denced by multiple LP participants in a single video, each of whom had
their own LP channel. Friends may also be included in the LP content but
were not otherwise active in producing LP content. Content is shared for
an audience to engage with alongside various mediated strategies that
actively promoted communication between the LP player and their viewer.
Collaboration and friendship are therefore dominant themes, emphasising
that content creators are highly motivated by sociality of the environment.
This is perhaps surprising, given that these content creators are often per-
ceived to be bedroom-based ‘nerds’ with few friends.
The content illuminates that social value was the most universally
sought form of value in this study. All participants stated they enjoyed
producing the content with or for friends and themselves, but they also
actively sought to create new networks through their efforts. As P3 states,
‘[I’m] hoping to find people that are like-minded, who enjoy watching the
same things as I watch’ whilst P7 extends this by commenting ‘I want to
make a dual comedy let’s play with someone in the same room’. Generating
social value in this way is quite a complex process: not only do c ollaborators
need to coordinate their effort to create content, ‘thing that people like
about let’s plays is that they are watching the video as if they are sat on the sofa
with a friend’ (P2) but as their social value transforms to symbolic value,
so their network grows providing more opportunities to create social value.
Evidence suggests that more frequent collaboration occurs on the
larger channels, with those that form a part of a larger group of players.
12 VALUE TRANSFORMATION: FROM ONLINE COMMUNITY TO BUSINESS… 255
Cultural Value
Cultural value was identified in themes related to face cam use and the
technical advances evidenced in content. A face cam, or forward-facing
camera, was used by LP players to overlay their face on to the content.
This was a popular mechanism used and clearly a skill that evidenced tech-
nical proficiency. LP players saw the use of the face cam as a way of adding
quality and indicating professionalism. Technical advances were also
observed in LP content, including the use of chroma key (green screen),
proficiency with audio and video editing and multi-cam setups, where the
content view was switched between several players’ content streams. The
production of LP content clearly necessitated players to develop work-like
skills. Skills related to everything from presentation skills, cinematography,
audio-visual capture and editing, storyboarding, and compositing, and
therefore the generation of cultural value was considered a main motivat-
ing factor. Evidence of the use, development and intent to advance their
creative and technical skillsets were highlighted, for example, participants
frequently suggested their goals were to: ‘… learn all the different pro-
grams of recording, editing, and learning […] the best ways to do that’ (P7).
P7 explained that development was not limited to computer-based skills
but ‘… personalities have changed as well, like some of the people that I do
let’s plays with have become a lot more open with it’. Others cited specific
examples of original inspiration, demonstrating their creeping involve-
ment in creative activities that transformed them from consumers to pro-
ducers. P5 states: ‘… there’s a lot of recording, planning it out, writing
everything, putting it all together … it’s [now] more focused, more effort,
256 T. HARWOOD ET AL.
Discussion
LP is shown to have multiple types of value that has benefit for LP players,
the community and businesses alike, and consequently business models
have been developed around this new form of user-generated content
(Vollmer et al. 2014; Dredge 2014; Marsden 2013; Rapp 2012). There is
evidence that the gaming industry is largely supportive of LP players in
creating the work despite some contradiction in terms and conditions
stated by developers and IP owners (Brightman 2016; O’Rourke 2015;
Hodson 2015; Dring 2014). Social networks serve as points of contact
with the community, where members can assemble around a topic of com-
mon interest (Henri and Pudelko 2003). The consumption of a shared
passion is a common theme and is indicative of a community of interest
(ibid.). Payne (2011) suggests that engagement with and consumption of
content can result in the development of skills. This implies that members
of communities of interest become prosumers (Toffler 1980) by partici-
pating in creative practice (Wenger 2000). Within this research, partici-
pants that transformed into active members of the community did this
initially by imitating the work of other community members, effectively
‘paying tribute’. This demonstrates a desire to pursue social and cultural
value through prosumption of content. The social aspect observed
through collaborations intimates that content is the result of a form of
playbour, inherently play-like yet requiring work-like skills to produce
12 VALUE TRANSFORMATION: FROM ONLINE COMMUNITY TO BUSINESS… 257
Conclusion
The four forms of value outlined by Bourdieu (1986)—economic, social,
cultural and symbolic—were used as the basis for discussing value trans-
formation in the LP community, as outlined in this chapter. Findings
demonstrated that each form of value is pursued and manifested through
the interplay of various creative and prosumption activities. The process
of content creation indicates the embedded nature of social and cultural
value but, whereas the business models employed by firms (platforms and
games developers) emphasise economic value as the driving force for
emergence of the LP phenomenon, the community itself focuses more
on the consequential symbolic value they generate. It is possible that the
relative youth of the industry (Klepek 2015) and speculative nature of
the channel monetisation processes explored (Hayes 2008) impedes par-
ticipants from pursuing direct and meaningful economic value genera-
tion. This research, however, suggests that alternative approaches to
260 T. HARWOOD ET AL.
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CHAPTER 13
Rachel Granger
R. Granger (*)
De Montfort University, Leicester, UK
e-mail: rachel.granger@dmu.ac.uk
1
Black and Minority Ethnic students.
268 R. GRANGER
emerges from and determines the actions of individuals, and lead to socio-
economic stratification. In the context of higher education and creative
skills, while there is a temptation to position degrees and students as
objects, which have monetary value in a commercial setting, the wider
experience of learning and being at university as a process and expression
of personal beliefs and values, can reveal important insights into the over-
all worth of higher education, within a wider society and system.
What is revealed here is that while the attainment gap between White
and BAME students has been explained partially by the relationship
between a student and university, and in particular, the barriers that might
prevent full BAME development, examining the relationship between stu-
dent values and those of an institution can reveal much about a student’s
educational experience and value sets. Pinky notes here the importance of
social belonging at a university (e.g. role models, mentors) as well as per-
sonal attributes (the way education is viewed and used, and motivation for
learning), which shape construction of terminal values around security,
success, and so on, and can create markedly different social structures
around the same commercial degree. One student’s pursuit of ‘stardom’
through a creative degree (Currid-Halkett 2015), using the accreditation
system as a passport to high-earning jobs, may differ to another experience
that draws on the learning environment to grow skills and new experiences
and is likely to view returns in terms of ‘delayed value’. For BAME groups,
with poorer relationships with peers, with fewer role models, and a weaker
support community, as well as lower instrumental values such as capability
and ambition, the value of a degree may not be so much delayed, as deval-
ued. In this sense, terminal values are inherently individual (e.g. one per-
son’s accomplishments may differ to another’s) and while Pinky has not
attempted to map these in her contribution, she nevertheless makes a case
for critiquing widely held assumptions about the universal value and effects
of creative learning. Pinky’s contribution reminds us to consider differ-
ences in micro social values (BAME cohorts, Generation Z), which may
differ to hegemonic views of the creative economy as wealthy workers and
businesses; bearing little resemblance to other groups with different termi-
nal and instrumental values, their learning and employment experiences,
their social and interpersonal interactions, and own positionality, from
which social acceptance and/or monetary value is shaped and ascribed.
Pinky concludes by making a connection between social values (societal
views of the value of higher education), personal and moral values, which
shape and are shaped by experiences and interactions within the higher
13 CONCLUSION: VALUE CONSTRUCTS FOR THE CREATIVE ECONOMY 269
prisons, and later schools and hospitals, it nevertheless has salience in illus-
trating how power has its principles not so much in a person, as a con-
certed distribution of institutions with principles of control and order, and
in an arrangement that produces a set of relations in which individuals are
caught up. In other words, societal power relations coerce, command,
direct, or influence the actions of others. Here Claire makes reference to
the values or forces exerted on individuals to embody, and to enhance
social relationships, sense of identity, or affiliation to a brand or group
(brand values) and even ethical values or principles. Her work implores us
to consider the material value embodied within a textile, as ‘embodied
situated bodily experience’ (Entwistle 2005) or second skin. This embod-
ied reading of textiles can lead to the creation of a personal relationship
between a garment as creative product, and individual, which connects
with deliberate design and textile thinking, and enables the agency of tex-
tiles to come to the fore. As a result, Claire argues, interaction can lead to
curatorial processes of owning, consuming, and caring for a textile that
detaches from the (global) economic power that connects fast fashion and
the consumer, and dominates the creative economy. Claire’s reading of
textiles through a phenomenological and existential understanding of a
garment sets out a practical way for culture and creativity as an art form in
a post-consumption phase of fashion, which is in a sense more ritualistic.
Lury’s description of ‘post-consumption rituals’ connotes the personalisa-
tion of an artefact, as a means of reassigning its meaning from that of the
manufacturer or retailer, to that of an individual—that belongs to them
and speaks to them (Lury 1996). In Chap. 6, Malika Kraamer uses these
same sentiments to examine the deliberate cultural consumption of Kente
cloth as an exclusive garment in today’s Ghana, as well as in a pan-African
context, in a way that evokes a sense of belonging and satisfaction among
its wearers, with deep aesthetic value. Malika argues that the continued
wearing of the cloth over the last two centuries is embedded in a sense of
continuity and identity with the past and current day identity as an expres-
sion of cultural value, which marks gender, class, status, or role in more
complex ways. As she argues, one way to study the relationship between
social identity and textiles is to look in detail at the use of these fabrics in
relation to the way that particular identities are achieved in wearing these
textiles, for example, at occasions, in political situations, or to promote
social mobility. In that sense, Kente cloth has more of an intrinsic value
(Throsby 2001) rather than market value, and Claire and Malika’s works
both speak to connections made through materials and their embodiment
13 CONCLUSION: VALUE CONSTRUCTS FOR THE CREATIVE ECONOMY 271
In the first two chapters of this book, we have explained how the con-
cept of value in the creative economy first emerged within research and
policy fields, the pitfalls of this view, and alternative ways of thinking about
the same issue performatively. This performance framework was applied in
the remainder of the book. The framework has shed light upon important
connections and relationships, and new terms, as outlined above. These
terms give us tools for understanding how people speak in terms of value
construction—shaped by wider power relations—which might inform
emerging policy on the creative economy, and potentially opens up new
avenues of research, for example, through the Creative Industries Policy
and Impact Centre at Nesta, and the Centre for Cultural Value at Leeds.
Through the different chapter contributions, both empirical and con-
ceptual, our aim was to bring together different researchers from different
fields, to engage in a diverse range of views and creative practices to stimu-
late new thinking on the creative economy, and also to raise new questions
relating to value construction. While the different chapters reinforce the
view that culture and creativity matter, through the use of different lens
and new constructs, the book provides an alternative view of how policy
might begin to evidence the impacts on individuals and communities. Our
own thinking and view of the creative economy has been affected by the
sheer richness of stories of value accumulated in this book, which suggest
we can no longer continue to rely on an axiomatic model, which positions
economic value exclusively at the centre of the creative economy. Our
hope is that community practitioners and policy makers can see the pitfalls
of continued overreliance on economic tools, and look towards the alter-
native framework and constructs outlined here, which we believe have
stood up well, and would help remove constraints. To conceive of the
creative economy as a broader performance, and to deploy some of the
additional constructs outlined in this chapter, is to tap into an incalculably
large resource of ideas that can transform existing thinking, and tackle
existing deficits. Fundamentally, it requires thinking differently. Supported
by fellow thinkers, the conversations in this book help.
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Index
G L
Gaming, 244, 245, 250, 256–258 Lab movement, 162–163
Generation X, 54 Languages, 21–23
Generation Z, 53, 54, 56 Leadership, 72–79
Gentrification, 178, 194 Leadership for the Future (2014–16),
Ghana, 109–118, 120–123 69, 72–79, 81, 82
Global economy, 4 Learning, 48, 54–58, 60, 61, 131,
Global Financial Crisis, 4 134, 135, 139, 153, 154, 157,
162–164, 166–168, 171
Lefebvre, 7
H Leicester, 219, 221–234, 236–238
Heritage, 183, 184, 186, 189 Leicester, UK, 131, 138–141, 146
Heritage Site (World), 186 Let’s Play (LP), 243
Hidden culture, 19–39 Local customs, 123
High culture, 180 Local patronage, 118, 119, 123
Localisation economies, 152,
155–156, 169
I Logo, 193, 194
Identity, 21–23, 32, 34, 36, 58–60, London, 3
89, 94, 110, 119–124, 178, 179, Low culture, 20, 33–35, 266
184, 187, 188, 192, 195 Lundvall, B.-A.
Idioculture, 133, 134 local codes, 266
Immaterial labour, 246
Individual creativity, 50–51, 57
Innovation, 115–118, 123–125, 131, M
132, 134–137, 139, 142, 143, 146, Machinima, 243, 246
152–157, 161, 162, 165, 167, 168, Made in Ouseburn, 194
170, 219–221, 225–228, 237 Maker mindset, 167, 168, 170, 171
Intellectual property (IP), 200, 209–214 Maker spaces, 152, 161–163, 165,
Inter/intra-operability Quotient, 166, 168, 169, 171
222, 222n4, 228 Manchester, 3
Intermediaries, 154, 157 Mapping, 218, 219, 221, 222,
Intrinsic value, 118, 121, 125 227, 236–238
Material capital and value, 89–90
Material culture, 34
J embodied meaning, 32–33
Jobs, 4, 5 Microculture, 131, 133–136, 139,
142, 145, 147
Millennium Product Status, 202
K Modding (modifying content), 245
Kente Cloth, 110–111, 114, 116, Mode 1 Knowledge, 229–230
122, 123 Monetary value, 49
Knowledge systems, 156, 158, 160 Monetisation, 249, 252, 258
282 INDEX
R
O Reinforcing, 273
Occasions, 110, 112, 115, Relational Analysis, 152, 237–238
118–124, 118n4 Remix Culture, 212
Oral history, 186 Resonating, 274
Ouseburn Futures, 182, 186 Revealing, 273
Ouseburn Trust, 177, 182, 186, Rituals, 119
189–190, 193–195 Rokeach, M., 48, 60, 61, 267
Ouseburn Valley, 177–180, 188–190, terminal value, 48, 60, 61, 267
193, 195, 196 Role models, 56, 58–60
Outdooring, 118, 118n4
S
P Sectionality, 133
Participation, 142, 143, 146 Seeing, 273
Performative utterance, 10 Signs and symbols, 7
Performing, 9–15 Silent design, 199–214
Performing value, 265–273 Single Regeneration Budget (SRB),
Phenomenology, 100–101 181, 182n1
Philanthropy, 67–83 Skills/training, 47, 49, 51,
Place-making, 131–147 54–58, 61
Place marketing, 191–194 Slavery, 28
Playbour (playing labour), 246–248, Slow fashion, 100
256, 258, 260 Social cohesion, 189, 197
Polanyi, 27 Socialisation, 257
tacit knowledge, 28 Social proximity, 220–221
Post-consumption rituals, 270 Social relationships, 119
Power, 20, 23, 25, 26, 28, 30–33, 35, Social value, 247, 252, 254–259
36, 90, 91, 97, 265–267, Societal worth, 266
269–273, 275 Spatial fix, 4
Power relations, 30–31 Standard Industrial Classification
Processes, 200, 208 (SIC), 218, 222
Production, 201, 202, 204, 210, 212 Students, 48, 50–61
Production and consumption, 5, 14 Subcultures, 20, 27, 33–35
INDEX 283
T
Tacit and embodied V
knowledge, 93, 95 Valorisation, 8, 214
Tacit knowledge, 27–29, 31, 33, 39 Value for money, 47, 48
Tax, 70, 71, 79, 82 Visual arts, 23
Technology, 153, 154, 161, 170 Volta Region, West Africa, 111
Textile, 85–102
Textile production, 110–116, 120
Third space, 151–173 W
Throsby, 24, 26, 31 Waremaking, 206
symbolic value, 26 Wealth, 49, 51
Toffee Factory, 182–184, 186 West Africa, 110, 115–117, 119
Togo, 110, 115, 118, 120, 122 Working-learning-social
Triple Helix, 154–155, 226 nexus, 156–160
Tyne and Wear Development Work/labour, 244–247, 249, 250,
Corporation (TWDC), 252, 253, 256, 258
181, 182n1 World Intellectual Property Office
Types of design, 204 (WIPO), 209, 210, 212