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pe video:

- pe bornele condensatorului: conectați firul albastru (cu terminal alb din plastic) la o priză de 220 volți.

- cu un conector al motorului: cel mai mic al 5-lea (dacă numărați secvența de sus în jos) conectați și firul negru într-o priză
de 220 volți.

de la conectorul motorului: două (2) fire negre superioare (dacă numărăți secvența de sus în jos, apoi primul și al doilea),
aceste două fire sunt responsabile pentru turațiile reduse ale motorului, le conectați la terminalele condensatorului, așa
cum se arată în imagine, (de exemplu, puteți vedea pe condensator: un fir negru cu un terminal de plastic roșu, iar sub el un
fir albastru cu o clemă de plastic roșie este turația motorului în sensul acelor de ceasornic dacă firul albastru cu terminalul
de plastic alb va fi reconectat (pe condensator!) sub un alt fir negru cu borna din plastic roșu, viteza motorului va fi în sens
invers acelor de ceasornic)

- cu un conector pentru motor: a 3-a și a 4-a (dacă este citit de sus în jos), firul este responsabil pentru viteze mari ale
motorului, le conectați la un condensator în loc de firele neagră 1 și 2 cu terminale de plastic roșii). Dacă nu avem nevoie de
viteză redusă!

only person cleverly laid out for parts!

on video:

- on the capacitor terminals: connect the blue wire (with white plastic terminal) to a 220 volt outlet.

-with an engine connector: the lowest 5th (if you count the sequence from top to bottom) also plug the black wire into a
220 volt socket.

from the motor connector: two (2) upper black wires (if you count the sequence from top to bottom then 1st and 2nd)
these two wires are responsible for low engine speeds, connect them to the capacitor terminals as shown in the video, two
plastic red terminals (these two black wires with red plastic terminals are responsible for turning the engine to the left and
to the right) (ie, for example, you can see on the capacitor: one black wire with a red plastic terminal and under it a blue
wire with a red plastic clamp is engine speed clockwise as well if the blue wire with the white plastic terminal is to be
reconnected (on the capacitor !!!) under another black wire with the red plastic terminal, the engine speed will be

-with a motor connector: 3rd and 4th (if read from top to bottom) the wire is responsible for high engine speeds, connect
them to a capacitor instead of the 1st and 2nd black wires with red plastic terminals). If we do not need low speed !!!
Washing machne Motor wiring help!

Hi - can anyone with domestic appliance motor knowledge help?

I have a 260W motor out of an old washing machine that I'd like to use to power a small metalworking lathe.
Unfortunately I'm still trying to work out how to connect it to the mains power.

The motor is marked:

ZEM Type 20571034 MAde in ITALY

Is.CI.B CE107/10-IEC 335

220 240V ~50Hz Matr.

4A 260W 2780 1/min
3.3A 200W 1380 1/min 8uF 400VL
1.1A 90W 900 1/min 8uF 450VL

No 34600.244

Unsurprisingly I also found a 8uF capacitor inside the machine.

The washing machine was an Electrolux.

The washer definitely tumbled clockwise and anti-clockwise - so it must be possible to start the motor in both
directions - but I only ever saw this working at low speed.

Having taped out the connections I have found there are 5 windings connected to a common (Pink) wire -
making 6 motor wires in total. There are also a couple of other wires that appear to have a short
circuit between them.

The wire colours and winding resistances are:

Pink Common
Brown 81ohm
Blue 44 ohm
White 76 ohm
Mauve 10 ohm
Orange 11 ohm

I suspect the other two wires (black and gray) connect to a centrifugal switch or thermal cutout.

Before I disassembled the motor from the washing machine I tried to work out the wiring when on the spin
cycle - from this I suspect:

Power was connected to the orange wire (11 ohm winding).

Power was also connected via the 8uf capacitor to the blue
wire (44 ohm winding).

The Power return was connected to the pink (common) wire.

I have also run the motor up in this configuration - first with 550W of light bulbs in series and then directly
connected to the mains power.

the light bulb test worked fine (the lights dimming after the motor has spun up to speed).
the direct mains test worked but the motor hummed quite a lot and one time it blew a 3A fuse on startup. I
didn't run it long.

The questions I want to ask are:-

Do you think I have the connections above right?

Has anyone any idea how to make it run at the other 2 speeds and how to reverse the direction?

One other combination of wires worked - power applied to the brown wire (81ohm winding) and via a
capacitor to the white wire (76ohm winding) - or reversing the brown and white wire connections made the
motor run the other direction. No other combination of wires seems to work.

Sorry its been a bit of a long rant - but I thought it best to lay out all the info. in one go.


An excellent book on the topic is "Electric Motors in the Home Workshop" by Jim Cox.

The book describes that your motor is likely to be a commutator motor with a small generator running off the
drive shaft to allow the speed of the output shaft to be measured.

The author doesn't seem to favour these types for powering lathes, the text suggests that they only develop
full power at around 8000rpm and require an electronic speed controller. There's a suggestion that if you run
the motor off load at normal mains voltage, the commutator will fly in bits due to the speed these motors can

Drop me a line off list if you want more details.



Steve, I have to disagree with you in that I think this is an induction motor.
Look at the speeds in the OP message it is a multipole motor with two, four and 6 poles.

It seem that the 2 pole configuration needs no capacitor but will need to be set spinning by one of the lower
speed windings first.

To Steve R.

I thing the best way to find out which connection is which is to drive the motor from another one (any speed)
and then observe the low voltage sine waves between the common and each other windings. Measure the
frequency from each terminal.

a)The lowest frequency should appear on one wire only. This is the top speed.
b)The next (medium) frequency (twice that of a) should appear on two wires. The lowest resistance of these
will be the main run winding, and the higher will be the one to be connected via the capacitor for the mid
speed setting
c)The remaining two wires should have the highest frequency (3 times a) and will be used for the lowest

I strongly suspect that you will only be able to reverse the motor on the low speed setting (the one you have
got working already I guess)
This will be a custom designed motor for a washing machine rather than a universal workhorse which is what
you really need

I hope that this makes sense (and works) I've never done this but it seems a sound approach to me.

A further thought has just occured to me!

To use the top speed winding you will have to get the motor turning with a lower speed setting first and it is
just possible that your can do this with the low speed, reversible winding thus giving you reversible top speed
You will need careful switching to achieve this, ensuring the motor comes to a stop when changing from top
speed CW to top speed CCW

Do note that the motor power is quite low on all but the top speed (1/3 hp) and only suitable for a small lathe

This is quite an intriguing problem (to me at least!!) Do let me know how you get on.



Sounds more like an induction motor which can be configured for 2, 4, or 6 poles based on the speeds and
50 Hz power. Sorry, original post isn't included here. 

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Have you considered the obvious? Call someone who repairs appliances and ask how it is wired.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Having trod this path before the best suggestion I can make is dump the lot in the bin and go and get a
proper motor from Machine Mart or such. You will waste endless time and effort and still have to do the
dumping eventually.

Oops! I did miss the quoted output speeds -


I'd say that is highly unlikely in a washing machine.

Who/what would measure the speed?
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

That is exactly how a washing machine motor is speed controlled. The tacho generator tells the electronic
module what speed the motor is running at. It is the only way to get a simple universl motor to run at washing
speed (50 ish rpm) and 1100 or more rpm for spinning.


Hi Steve.

Washing machine motors:

2 wires for the armature

2 wires for the field
2 wires for the tacho
- thats the normal setup of these.

You can run them either off a switched mode controller (not worth it) or run it on reduced voltage with
windings in series. Just keep an eye on the motor temp, as these things arent rated to run full whack for long.
Reduced V comes from either a transformer or series bulbs.

Dont expect any great power output running like this, but it can be used to bodge up old equipment that
otherwise wouldnt be worth doing.

Reversing: just swap the wires over on one of the winds (not both!).

Regards, NT

These must be european washing machines, or perhaps very high end ones in north america. Every washing
machine I've ever seen inside of uses a 1/2hp capacitor start AC induction motor with two separate windings
for high and low speed. There's no control electronics or anything, just a mechanical timer and a pressure
switch to measure the water level. Higher end washers have an electronic controller but the motor is generally
still just a big induction motor.

Most british machines have used universal brush motors for the last 30 years or so.
Mainly to satisfy the requirement for higher and higher spin speeds at low cost.


Well, I've never worked on a Lucas washing machine, but I've fixed my share of Maytag's, FSP's [various
nameplates] etc.

I have never seen a speed control of any form. The FSP's use a transmission that oscillated the agitator while
the drum rotated, and then changed gears to spin the water out while the pump drains the drum.

The resulting speed is load-dependent. When it's full of water it's starts out slower than when empty..

Hi again.
I'm talking about european front loaders there, which are in almost every case as I described. The big old top
loaders with agitaters, which are long obsolete here, are as you say a different business. The last one of
those I worked on had no speed control at all: the water kept it running slowly during wash, and when it
emptied it picked up to high speed for spin.

Regards, NT

This is the reason why, after the expensive failures of two delicate high tech European machines, we
eventually bought an American (Whirlpool) washer. Crude and noisy it may be - but it still keeps going after
1000+ washes.

(I'd love to play with a Dyson tho'----------)

Cheers - Mick
at Elstead, halfway between London and Portsmouth, UK
and at:-

The speed controller

Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)

I have just changed my 18 year old "hoover computer control" machine just for a new "LG". The Hoover motor
had Brushes and what sounded and appeared to be Thyristor controller it seemed very sophisticated and
reliable for an old washer. Chris R

Hi All,
I've recently ripped apart 4 front loaders purchased in the U/K within the last 5 years. Thay all seem to be of
Italian origin, 2 had commutator motors and 2 had induction motors (capacitor run, I think, no centrifugal
witches could be heard). I have had all of these running successfully, and fukky understand the tacho' run
type of speed control on comm mtors.
However, the induction motors (2 speed), also have a tacho fitted at the rear, and a small control box. These
2 run very well at both speeds direct from the mains, with the cap connected. Does anyone know what the
taco' bit is for ?.
1 more question for those more enlightened than myself, the induction motors are marked with conflicting
current / wattage ratings, ie

220/240 V, 4 A, 330 W or similar. Can someone please explain ?

Besr Regards


"Nunce excreta in extractum est".

Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

> > 220/240 V, 4 A, 330 W or similar. Can someone please explain ?

> Current rating will be the current drawn from the supply, power will be the
> power output of the motor. The difference will be shared between power
> factor and the motor efficiency.

More likely that the 330 W is the real power used by the motor, not produced as work, and the power that
would be registered by a residential W-h meter.

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The tacho generator is also used in most machines for out of balanced load, so the redistribution phase can
be inserted x times as required or cancel the spin phase, in some top end machines its one of the fuzzy logic
sensors that allow the programs to be altered automatically for time/water/heat/speed.
In the 1980s one range of machines had a motor which during wash operates as an induction motor and as a
U-motor for spin.


"Bob Minchin" <> wrote in message

Sorry, don't take this as a criticism or anything more extreme but why do European washers need so much
more speed for the spin than American machines? As far as I know, we are still happily using induction
And, no it's not the difference between 50 and 60 Hz. 

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Get the motor with its control module, and with minimal modification it will make an excellent variable speed
motor for a lathe.
Been using one on my ML7 for years and it is very useful.
Model Engineering, Steam Engine, and Railway technical pages.

I know nothing about American front loaders but I would be surprised if they are still using 60Hz induction
motors as the commutator motor solution delivers better performance at a lower cost.
In the UK climate which, much of the time is cold and wet (not at present!), high spin speed is much
appreciated as it gives a better chance of getting your washing dry in a reasonable time.

Machines using series wound wound commutator motors are now beginning to disappear as these are being
replaced, first by permanent magnet commutator motors and later by direct electronic drive brushless motors.


Simply - because you seem to accept that still wet clothes is normal for the results of spin drying. It might be
OK in hot dry climate, but it's bloody useless when it's 5 deg C and 80%+ relative humidity!

It's also interesting to note that all the top end domestic appliances sold in affluent areas of the US are
European made/designed, possibly because most of them have been here and thought, why do we put up
with our own domestic crap ?
Steve Blackmore

Play with a Dyson? thats about all you can do with it.

I've had a CR01 that has just started its extended warranty, and during its first two years has virtually been
rebuilt after having had eleven breadowns - all different problems, but all mostly electronic.

Whenever it senses a problem it just shuts down and you cant do anything except get it to pump out unless
the main fuse blows.

Interestingly though it has two motors for the drum running on a common polyvee belt, and each motor is a
mixture of series and compound wound with inductive speed monitoring.

I must also say that Dyson's have been totally on the ball with repairs with no question as to replacement as
the machine is still within development, to date the last number of washes carried out was 2847 in just over
two years.