KNITWARE MANUFACTURE & TECHNOLOGY

COURSE NAME : SPECIAL KNIT FABRIC & FINISHES

COURSE CODE : TEX-2101

ASSIGNMENT ON:
RELATION AMONG GSM,YARN COUNT,STITCH LENGTH & FABRIC
CONSTRUCTION

REPORT SUBMITTED TO
MAHBUBUL HAQUE
{LECTURER,BUFT}

Submission Date : 16th July 2014

 THIS REPORT IS PRESENTED BY THE GROUP OF

NAME & I.D. OF THE GROUP MEMBERS

SL NAME OF THE STUDENT IDENTITY NUMBER
NO.
1 S.M.NAZMUL ALAM 131-092-0-135

2 HASAN MAHAMMUD NAYEEM 131-083-0-135

3 SUBHA JUTI MAZUMDER 131-080-0-135

4 ZAHIDUL HAQUE MAZUMDER 131-079-0-135

5 ARJUN GHOSH 131-056-0-135

Introduction:
FABRIC:
Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibres and yarns that has substantial surface
area inrelation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful
mechanicalstrength.Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted.

Picture:Different types of fabrics

GSM & YARN COUNT OF A FABRIC:

The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a
textile engineer for understanding and production of fabric. ‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per
square meter’ that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we
can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter.

Count is very important factor for the Textile Yarn Manufacturing. Maintaining the
yarn count is mandatory to retain the quality of a yarn and fabrics. According to the
Textile Institute “Count is a number of indicating the mass per unit length or length
per unit mass of yarn”. Generally Yarn Count is the weight per unit length of the yarn
of the length of per unit length.

We Select the correct Yarn count for specific fabric (such as-Double Lacoste) GSM by
the following process:
For Double Lacoste ,
Say, the require GSM is 220
Yarn count = (-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36
= (-0.167) X (220) + 64.36
= -36.74 + 64.36
= 27.62
So, to knit 220 gsm Double Lacoste fabric we need yarn count 27.62/s

Picture:GSM vary with yarn count

Different types of fabric has different Yarn count.GSM & Yarn count are related with
each other.Changes of fabric GSM vary with yarn count.

In single jersey fabric :

If the yarn count is 30/s then the grey gsm will be 80% to 85% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 26/s then the grey gsm will be 78% to 80% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 24/s then the grey gsm will be 76% to 77% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 20/s then the grey gsm will be 76% to 79% less from the finished GSM

In P/int fabric :

If the yarn count is 40/s then the grey gsm will be 72% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 34/s then the grey gsm will be 72% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 30/s then the grey gsm will be 74% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 26/s then the grey gsm will be 72% less from the finished GSM

If the yarn count is 24/s then the grey gsm will be 72% less from the finished GSM

STITCH LENGTH OF A FABRIC:

The stitch length setting on your sewing machine allows to adjust the number of
stitches sewn per inch. Is the theoretically is as Stitch length is theoretically a single
length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent needle loops on either
side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is that which influence fabric
dimension and other properties including weight. In order to determine the stitch
length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on
the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.. The weight, thickness and type
of fabric sewn will determine the stitch length to use.

All of these four things are related to each other.In this Report we try to maintain
different types of fabrics construction, yarn count,GSM & stitch length of fabric.
Relation Among Different types of fabrics construction,

GSM,Yarn Count & Stitch Length

Fabric Construction Finished GSM Yarn Count Stitch Length(mm)

220-240 20’s 2.62

Single Jersey/Plain 200-220 20’s 2.87

180-200 25’s 2.54
150-160 30’s 2.59
120-140 34’s 2.73

100-120 40’s 2.74

110-120 50’s 2.09

270-310 25’s 3.31

Interlock 250-270 30’s 3.07

210-240 34’s 3.13

180-210 40’s 2.03

160-180 50’s 2.82

260-290 20’s 2.98

Single Rib
220-260 25’s 2.73
180-220 30’s 2.73
160-190 34’s 2.76
150-170 40’s 2.56
Fabric Construction Finished GSM Yarn Count Stitch Length(mm)
320-360 30’s 1.86
Double Rib
280-320 34’s 1.86

260-290 40’s 1.72

220-250 20’s 2.56

Pique Single
190-220 25’s 2.35

160-180 30’s 2.36

140-160 34’s 2.36

250-270 20’s 2.77

Pique Double
210-240 25’s 2.56
180-210 30’s 2.46
160-180 34’s 2.49

290-320 20’s 2.63

F/B Rib Single
270-290 25’s 2.29
230-260 30’s 2.18
190-210 34’s 2.36

290-310 25’s 2.45

F/B Rib Double
260-280 30’s 2.27
230-250 34’s 2.25
Fabric Construction Finished GSM Yarn Count Stitch Length(mm)

Polyester S/J 150-170 50’s 1.46

180-200 25’s 2.46

280-300 25’s 2.31

Waffle
240-270 30’s 2.19

200-230 34’s 2.29

320-350 20’s-20D 2.95

Lycra Rib
270-310 25’s-40D 2.72

260-280 30’s-70D 2.44

240-270 34’s-70D 2.28

260-290 20’s 2.92

Dourby Rib
220-250 25’s 2.73

190-220 30’s 2.61

Lycra Dourby F/S 300 30’s 2.23

260-280 30’s-ALT-40D 1.90

Lycra Jersey 220-240 34’s-ALT-40D 1.97

180-210 40’s-ALT-40D 1.97
 150-170 50’s-ALT-40D 1.92
Lycra Jersey
220-250 34’s-ALT-20D 1.92

180-220 40’s-ALT-20D 1.92

160-180 50’s-ALT-20D 1.81

300-350 30’s-2ply 4.10

Heavy Jersey
260-280 34’s-2ply 4.35

220-240 40’s-2ply 4.34

180-200 50’s-2ply 4.20

300-330 20’s+20’s 1.22

270-290 25’s+20’s 1.22
Fleece-2T
240-270 30’s+20’s 1.20
220-240 34’s+20’s 1.24
200-220 40’s+20’s 1.22
180-200 40’s+25’s 1.24
160-180 40’s+30’s 1.29
360-400 25’s+10’s 1.58
330-360 30’s+20’s 1.22
Fleece-3T
310-340 34’s+20’s 1.20
280-300 40’s+20’s 0.90
230-260 50’s+80’s 0.47
270-290 25’s+80’s 0.52
Velour
240-260 30’s+80’s 0.56
 220-240 34’s+80’s 0.58

190-210 40’s+80’s 0.64

245-255 18’s 3.00

Single Lacost
210-215 24’s 2.64

200-210 26’s 2.60

180-190 30’s 2.50

CONCLUSION:

The assignment has come to a termination finally after lots of thinking, discussion
and we uninterrupted trying. We really have worked hard to complete this report
well ahead. We wished to make it as a replica of production so that it provides a
complete knowledge about Fabrics GSM,Yarn count & Stitch Length. Though there
were some limitations like shortage of time that compelled us to complete the thesis
as soon as possible, even then we have tried to give our best.
In this report we have studied Study on effect of Fabrics in GSM variation according
to the yarn count. Here it has been shown different types of GSM of single jersey and
rib fabric & other kinds of fabrics. The reason of GSM variation is because of different
yarn count.
In addition, we wanted to discuss some more topics, such as – definition of
Fabric,Fabric GSM meaning,Yarn count meaning,& Stitch length Description etc.We
also added some picture about Fabrics & fabrics GSM,Stitch length & relation among
them. In these assignment there should be limitation of answer & data because of
the limitation of time as well as due to deficiency of enough sources of information,
we could not meet these. Further research can be conducted on those topics.