Chap 103

start
Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

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OBJECTIVES:
After studying Chapter 103, the reader should
be able to:
• Discuss how to disassemble an automatic
transmission/transaxle.
• Explain how to properly install and check
clutch packs.
• Describe how to flush the cooler.
• Explain how to properly reassemble an
automatic transmission/transaxle.
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OBJECTIVES:
After studying Chapter 103, the reader should
be able to:
• List the steps necessary to follow when
removing an automatic
transmission/transaxle assembly.
• Describe how to properly remove and install
an aluminum pump in an automatic
transmission/transaxle.
• Explain how to flush an automatic
transmission fluid cooler.

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KEY TERMS:
Assembly lube
OSHA air nozzle

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REMOVING THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE FOR SERVICE
Removing an automatic transmission/transaxle from a vehicle
includes many steps to avoid doing damage to the vehicle or harm
to yourself. Most procedures include the following:
Step #1 Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable from the battery.
Step #2 Disconnect the driveshaft or drive axle shafts.
Step #3 Disconnect all cooler lines, linkage, and electrical
connections. Be sure to label each to ensure proper reinstallation.
Step #4 Disconnect the torque converter from the flex (drive) plate
of the engine.
Step #5 Support the engine before disconnecting the automatic
transmission/transaxle, as shown in Figure 103–1.
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Figure 103–1 (a) A tall safety stand with a
block of wood on top being used to
support the engine to permit the removal
of the automatic transmission without
doing harm to the engine or its
accessories.
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Figure 103–1 (b) A chain and holding fixture being used on this front-wheel-drive vehicle to
support the engine when the transaxle is removed.
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Step #7 Support the transmission/transaxle on a jack and remove
the attaching bolts at the bell housing of the engine, as shown
below. Remove the transmission/transaxle from the vehicle.
Figure 103–2 (a) A typical

transmission jack. The top
portion of the jack can be
raised by pumping the
lever on the side.
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Figure 103–2 (b) A transmission jack in position during the removal of the transaxle assembly.
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The Chain Trick
If two slide hammers are not available to remove a cast iron pump from
anautomatic transmission, try using a length of chain. Attach each end
of a chain to the pump and jerk the chain. The pump should come out.
CAUTION: Do not attempt this procedure with an aluminum pump or

damage could result.

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AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE DISASSEMBLY
For best results, the automatic
transmission/transaxle should be attached
to a holding fixture that allows the unit to
be rotated yet properly supported during
disassembly and reassembly.
Torque Converter Check

Check the torque converter
for internal end play of the
stator.
Figure 103–3 Special tool being used
to help measure the end play of the
stator inside the torque converter.

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NOTE: Many automotive transmission/transaxle experts recommend that
the torque converter be replaced when the automatic transmission is rebuilt
or replaced. This is because the torque converter is generally considered to
be the “garbage pit” of the entire unit in that it often collects wear particles
from the clutch and bands that can cause future problems. According to
remanufacturers of torque converters, the majority of the torque converters
being
turned in as cores have
little, if any, friction
material remaining
for the torque
converter clutch.
Figure 103–4 A cutaway of a

torque converter clutch showing
the thin paper friction material.

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If the Torque Converter Is Dropped,
Replace It
Torque converters include plastic thrust plates which are very strong under the compressive forces of normal
torque converter operation. However, if a torque converter is dropped, even from a distance of less than six
inches (15 cm), the thrust washer can easily break, ruining the torque converter.
Even though torque converters look strong and feel heavy, handle them as if they are glass.
Pump Assembly Remove the pump assembly using the proper

removal tool to avoid damaging it. See Figures 103–5 and 103–6.
Check the pump for wear as shown in Figure 103–7.

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Figure 103–5 Two slide hammers are usually used to remove a cast-iron pump assembly from
older automatic transmissions.
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Figure 103–6 A special puller is usually
specified to remove aluminum pumps
from transmissions/transaxles.
Alignment pins (arrows) are used to
properly align the gasket and pump on
the case during reassembly.
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Figure 103–7 Checking a transmission pump assembly for wear using a feeler gauge. Compare
the readings to factory specifications.
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Valve Body Remove the valve body and check all valves for
proper operation. To service a valve body, disassemble all the parts
and identify them for reassembly.
Figure 103–8 A cutaway of an auxiliary valve body showing the valves and springs that should
be checked for smooth operation.
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Save the old gaskets to match Figure 103–9 Sometimes unique tools make
the job go smoother. An engine valve spring
with the new ones. compressor is used to compress a servo
piston so the snap ring can be removed.
Clean all parts in a solvent that

removes all gum, varnish, dirt,
and grease.
Rinse clean parts in hot water,

then immerse in clean mineral
spirits or a similar solvent to
separate water from the parts.
Finish cleaning by blow-drying

with low-pressure, filtered,
compressed air.
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Once clean, inspect the valve body and its components and look for:
Scored, cracked, or burred plugs and valves
Broken, bent, or worn springs
Scored or rusted bores
Plugged or restricted fluid passages
Bent or rusted separator plates
Stuck check valves
Bent manual valves
Cracked castings and distorted or nicked mating surfaces.
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Shiny areas on valve lands indicate friction between the spool valve and body. On steel valves,
these areas can be polished carefully with 400- to 600-grit wet or dry sandpaper, crocus cloth, or
polishing stone.
Take care not to round off the edges of the valve lands while polishing. Aluminum valves cannot
be polished. If a valve needs polishing, the bore it rides in also requires servicing. Polish the
valve bore by inserting and turning loosely rolled wet or dry sandpaper or crocus cloth. Avoid
rounding the edge of the bore. Rewash and dry any valves and bores that are polished.
After polishing and washing, lubricate the spool valve with ATF and slide it into its bore to
check fit and operation. The valve should slide back and forth freely of its own weight.
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Clutch Packs Begin disassembling a clutch pack by removing
the snap ring that holds the discs in the housing.
Remove the snap ring from most clutches by prying one end of it
free from its groove with a small screwdriver.
Then, slide the screwdriver around the drum and the snap ring
removes easily.
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Friction Disc Inspection Wipe each friction disc with a dry, lint-
free cloth. Inspect for:
Excessive wear
Cracks in the lining material
Charred, burned, or glazed lining surface
Pitting, flaking, or scoring
Chips or particles embedded in the lining
Scoring or burns on disc serrations
Distortion
Friction discs tend to discolor in use, which is normal. If any
friction disc shows signs of one or more of the defects above,
replace the entire set. Replace the set of friction discs if they do
not fit freely in the clutch hub serrations or if there is wear or
damage to their splines. Continued
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Steel Disc Inspection Also clean steel discs by wiping with a dry,
lint-free cloth. Once clean, inspect each disc for:
Uneven heat discoloration
Surface scuffing or scoring
Drive lug damage
Distortion
Replace the entire set of steels if you note a rough surface or there
is uneven or spotty discoloration on any of the discs. Also replace
steel discs if they do not fit freely into the clutch drum serrations.
NOTE: Be sure to soak all the friction discs in ATF before assembling
the clutch pack.
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Smooth Is In; Rough Is Out
It used to be common practice in the automatic transmission business for
the rebuilder to use sandpaper to “roughen up” the surface of the steel
discs to achieve a good clutch apply. This is not true now.
Sanding creates grooves and sharp peaks that decrease the oil film
between the paper on the friction plate and the steel plates. There should
be a thin oil film between the paper and the steel to create a holding bond
and make it possible for a clutch pack to apply and release thousands of
times without wear.
For consistent shifts and long-lasting transmissions/transaxles, do not

sand the steel discs. Used steel discs are often smoother than new steel
discs due to normal wear. As long as the steel discs are not discolored,
heat checked, or warped, used steel discs should be reused.

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Clutch Piston Removal and Inspection To remove the snap
ring holding the clutch piston in place, compress the piston
return springs, which is done with a compressor tool.
Tightening a nut onto the shaft draws the fingers of the tool
down, compressing the spring, and allowing the snap ring
to be removed.
After removing the snap ring, release and remove the spring
compressor, then remove and inspect the return springs.
See Figure 103–10.
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Figure 103–10 A compressor tool is
usually necessary to compress the
springs of the clutch piston to remove
the snap ring.
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Return Spring Inspection Coil springs should be straight and provide proper pressure. Check
for broken, distorted, or collapsed springs. If one or more of the springs requires replacement,
discard them all and install a complete set of new springs.
Some coil springs are permanently attached to their retaining collar and can only be serviced as a
set. When individual coil springs are used, be sure to note their exact location.
There will be vacant spring seats in some applications. This allows the manufacturer to use the
same piston but vary the number and location of springs to precisely match spring
return rate to the requirements of a particular vehicle.
Reinstall return springs in exactly the same vacancy pattern.
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Clutch Piston Inspection Remove the clutch piston from the
hub. The drag of the piston seal can make it hard to remove
the piston from its bore.
Should this be the case, apply low-pressure compressed air

through the hydraulic apply hole in the housing to force the
piston from its bore.
Always Use OSHA Approved Air Nozzles

Compressed air can be very dangerous. The Occupational Safety and
Health Administration (OSHA) has specified an air nozzle that diverts some
air outward that helps reduce the full force of the compressed air able to be
applied to a clutch pack. Be sure to use an OSHA approved air nozzle.
Do not use high air pressure and be careful to avoid pinching your
hand or dropping the piston as it pops from its bore. Continued
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Once you remove the piston, check for:
Cracks or scoring in the piston bore
Nicks, scores, burrs, or signs of wear on the piston
Seal damage
Fluid passage obstructions or restrictions
If the piston contains a check valve, make sure it is functional.

Remove and discard seals.
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Hubs, Drums, Shells, and Planetaries Clutch hubs, drums, and shells transfer the torque load
to the various combinations of planetary gear set members to provide different gear ratios.
Hubs, drums, shells, and planetaries are hard parts that do not wear out under normal
conditions, so they can be reused unless they are damaged.
Wash with solvent, dry with compressed air, and then inspect.
Planetary gear sets should be checked for proper pinion gear end play and compared to factory
specifications.
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Figure 103–11 Pinion gear end play can be checked using a feeler gauge.
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REASSEMBLING AN AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE
Air Pressure Checks Reassembly of an automatic transmission/
transaxle involves assembling the various subassemblies, such as
a clutch pack, before final assembly is completed. See Figures
103–12 and 103–13 for how to check for proper clutch pack
clearance.
Air pressure checks are used to verify that components such as

clutch packs perform correctly. Use a rubber-tipped air nozzle
and regulate the air supply to about 35 PSI (240 kPa).
Use the factory service information regarding where to air check

and what the results should be.
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Figure 103–12 All clutch packs should be checked with a feeler (thickness) gauge to be certain
that the clearance is within factory specifications.
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Figure 103–13 Checking clutch pack clearance using a dial indicator. This method is used when
a feeler gauge cannot be inserted to check for proper clearance.
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A typical result is a dull Figure 103–14 Air testing a clutch pack on the
bench before it is installed into the
thud or clunk heard when transmission/transaxle.
air pressure is applied to a
clutch pack or servo piston.
When the air pressure is

removed, the unit should
release. If there is a seal
leak, air can usually be
heard hissing from
around the seal.
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All bushings should be inspected and replaced if necessary, as
shown below. Follow manufacturer’s recommended procedures.
Figure 103–15 A typical brass bushing used in an automatic transmission/transaxle assembly.
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Figure 103–16 Using an alignment clamp to assemble both pump halves. To ensure proper
alignment, many experts recommend lightly tapping around the outside edges of the pump
while tightening the clamp.
A special clamp is often necessary to

properly assemble a pump, shown here.
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Special tools are often specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
These tools allow the tech to disassemble and reassemble the
transmission/transaxle more easily and without doing any harm.
SPECIAL TOOL
Figure 103–17
A special clamp makes
removal and reinstallation
of the clutch pack easier.
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Also perform all end play checks during assembly to ensure
the unit was properly assembled and that the proper internal
clearances are achieved.
Figure 103–18
A dial indicator being used to
measure the end play of the
input shaft
If the end play is not within

factory specifications, the
unit may not have been
assembled correctly.
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CAUTION: When assembling the valve body, double-check that all the
valves move by gently prying each valve with a plastic tool. If a valve is
stuck, carefully clean with a crocus cloth and avoid rounding the sharp
edges of the valves. Avoid using sealer that could clog small passages.
Valve Body Checks The valve body can be checked using a tester especially
designed to check valve bodies.
This unit also heats the automatic transmission fluid so that the valve body is
being tested under the same conditions as will be occurring in the vehicle.
It is easier to repair a fault with the valve body than wait until the valve body and
the transmission are installed in the vehicle.
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Figure 103–19 Valve body tester.
Adapters are available for all

commonly serviced
transmissions/transaxles, and
the pressure gauges that are
part of the tester are used to
monitor the movement and
flow through the valve body.
Change the Bolts and Washers

Whenever reassembling an automatic transmission, always replace the pump bolts and
washers to avoid the possibility of a leak. A leak in the
area of the pump can cause quite a headache for the technician because the entire
assembly must be removed from the vehicle again to fix it.
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Flushing the Cooler and Torque Converter All vehicle
manufacturers recommend the automatic transmission fluid
cooler be flushed or replaced when a replacement or overhauled
automatic transmission/transaxle is installed in a vehicle.
Debris from the old unit could quickly cause excessive wear
in the replacement unit if not thoroughly flushed.
Most commercial flushing

units use compressed air and
a solvent or ATF to flush the
cooler.
Figure 103–20 Setup used to flush a
torque converter.
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CAUTION: Most experts agree that water-based flushing solutions
should be avoided. The water may contaminate the new fluid when the
cooler lines are reattached and the ATF flows through the cooler.
NOTE: At least two quarts (liters) of ATF should flow through the cooler
every 30 seconds or the cooler and/or the lines are restricted.
To flush the cooler, determine which cooler line from the transmission/transaxle
is flowing to the cooler.
See the chart following for the placement of many of the cooler-out lines on the
most commonly used transmissions/transaxles.
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See the chart on Page 1327 of your textbook.
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Dyno Testing the Automatic Transmission/Transaxle
A rebuilt automatic transmission/transaxle can be tested on a
dynamometer powered by an electric motor as shown below,
or by a gasoline engine as shown in Figure 103–22.
Figure 103–21 A motor-driven dynamometer being
Most dynamometers are used to check the operation of a 41TE transaxle.
equipped with pressure
gauges as well as provide
a load so the operation of
the unit can be checked
before being installed in
the vehicle.
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Figure 103–22 A gasoline engine-powered dynamometer being set up to test a rear-wheel-drive
transmission.
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REINSTALLING THE AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE
After the unit has been reassembled and all end play checks
indicate that the unit is properly assembled, reinstall the automatic
transmission/transaxle in the vehicle.
Many experts recommend that new transmission/transaxle mounts

be installed to assure proper driveshaft/drive axle shaft angles.
NOTE: New mounts are particularly important if the unit was leaking
automatic transmission fluid (ATF). The ATF can soften and deteriorate
the rubber used in the mounts.
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Before installing the unit into the vehicle, flush the torque converter with clean ATF.
Carefully install the torque converter onto the input shaft being sure to fully engage the pump gear.
Carefully install the unit and use a torque wrench to torque the bolts to the bell housing. Attach the
torque converter to the flex (drive) plate.
Reattach all electrical connections. Lower the vehicle and add enough ATF to properly fill the unit.
Consult factory information for the recommended amount to avoid under-or overfilling.
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Avoid Using Red Assembly Lube
Assembly lube is used during the reassembly of automatic transmissions.
If red assembly lube is used on seals, it may look like an automatic
transmission fluid leak when the transmission gets hot and the lube melts
If you use blue, green, brown, or
clear lube, the color will immediately
identify it as assembly lube.
Many transmissions have been
disassembled because the tech
thought the red liquid dripping
from parts of the transmission
was automatic transmission fluid,
while in fact it was just assembly
lube that melted and ran when
the transmission reached normal
operating temperature.
Figure 103–23 Blue assembly lube.

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ROAD TEST
Start the engine and check the level of the ATF. Carefully test-
drive the vehicle checking for proper operation and shift points.
Hoist the vehicle and check for any possible ATF leaks before
returning the vehicle to the customer.

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Install a Transmission Cooler
An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is recommended by most experts to
help keep the temperature from becoming excessive, especially when
towing or performing other heavy-duty vehicle operation.
Most experts recommend that the cooler be connected so that the hot
fluids travel through the auxiliary cooler and then through the factory
cooler and return to the transmission/transaxle.
Using this method of plumbing

allows the radiator to warm the
transmission fluid in cold weather
as well as provide additional
cooling of the fluid when the
fluid temperature is high.
Figure 103–24 An auxiliary transmission

cooler installed on a Chevrolet tow vehicle.

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PHOTO SEQUENCE 6T70 Transaxle Service
Continued
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PHOTO SEQUENCE 6T70 Transaxle Service (cont.)
Continued
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Continued
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SUMMARY
1. The transmission pan should be carefully inspected for evidence
of excessive wear material. Use a magnet to check for any
particles of steel that could be the result of serious internal
damage such as a defective planetary gear set.
2. The engine should be properly supported before the automatic
transmission/transaxle is removed from the vehicle.
3. When reassembling an automatic transmission/transaxle, the
clutch pack clearances should be checked with a feeler gauge
and air checked.
4. End play should be checked according to the vehicle
manufacturer’s recommendations. This check is also used
as a double check for the service technician that the unit
was properly assembled.
Continued
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SUMMARY (cont.)
6. All vehicle manufacturers recommend that the automatic
transmission fluid cooler be flushed when rebuilding or
replacing an automatic transmission/transaxle.

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PowerPoint transcription by TAB Publishing Services
end

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Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

OSHA air nozzle

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Figure 103–2 (a) A typical

CAUTION: Do not attempt this procedure with an aluminum pump or

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Torque Converter Check

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Figure 103–4 A cutaway of a

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Pump Assembly Remove the pump assembly using the proper

Check the pump for wear as shown in Figure 103–7.

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Clean all parts in a solvent that

Rinse clean parts in hot water,

Finish cleaning by blow-drying

For consistent shifts and long-lasting transmissions/transaxles, do not

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

See Figure 103–10.

Reinstall return springs in exactly the same vacancy pattern.

Should this be the case, apply low-pressure compressed air

Always Use OSHA Approved Air Nozzles

If the piston contains a check valve, make sure it is functional.

See Figure 103–11.

Air pressure checks are used to verify that components such as

Use the factory service information regarding where to air check

When the air pressure is

A special clamp is often necessary to

If the end play is not within

See Figure 103–19.

Adapters are available for all

Change the Bolts and Washers

Most commercial flushing

Many experts recommend that new transmission/transaxle mounts

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Using this method of plumbing

Figure 103–24 An auxiliary transmission

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

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