Apparel Factory Quality Manual

I) Introduction 7
Liaison Office Quality Assurance Contacts..........................................................................................7
Basic Quality Assurance Expectations..................................................................................................8

II) Fabric Inspection Program 10

Four Point System................................................................................................................................11
Defect Classification.............................................................................................................................11
Fabric Inspection.................................................................................................................................12
Knit Bundle Inspections......................................................................................................................14
Color Program Basics..........................................................................................................................14
Run Cards and Shade Bands...............................................................................................................15
Trim and Raw Material Inspections...................................................................................................16

III) Fabric Testing Basics 18

Finished Garment Testing Summary..................................................................................................18
Testing Evaluation and Reporting......................................................................................................19

IV) Cutting and Spreading Inspections 20

Monitoring Spreading and Cutting....................................................................................................20
Important Points For Knits.................................................................................................................21
Spreading and Cutting QC Inspector Procedures.............................................................................21
Cutting Room Inspector Procedures..................................................................................................22
Manual Cutting Inspections................................................................................................................22
CNC / Computer Cutting....................................................................................................................23
Bierrebi (B-R-B)...................................................................................................................................23

V) In-process Inspections 24
Inspector Procedures...........................................................................................................................24
Summary of the Follow-up Bundle Process.......................................................................................25

VI) Additional Monitoring 26

Seam Seal / Bonding.............................................................................................................................26
Measurement Procedures....................................................................................................................27
Pre-Final Inspections...........................................................................................................................27
Quality Reports and Daily Meeting....................................................................................................27
Quality Standards................................................................................................................................27
 Display and Organizational Boards....................................................................................................27
Recognition and Incentive Programs..................................................................................................28
Defect Codes.........................................................................................................................................28
Pilot Lots...............................................................................................................................................28
Vestibule Training................................................................................................................................28

VII) Final Inspection29

VIII) The Final Audit Process 30

Random Sampling................................................................................................................................30
Sampling Plans.....................................................................................................................................30
When to Inspect...................................................................................................................................30
Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection.....................................................................................32
Using the “How To Measure” Manual................................................................................................33
Re-Audits..............................................................................................................................................33

VIII) Qualified Factory Inspector Program 35

APPENDIXES 36

I) Broken Needle and Auxiliary Sewing Tool Policy 36

II) Down Product Compliance Overview 40

CCS 151 Test Lab Requirements........................................................................................................40
CCS 152 Down Suppliers.....................................................................................................................40
CCS 153 Factory Monitoring and Testing..........................................................................................41
CCS 154 Finished Goods Factory In-Process and Final Inspection Monitoring.............................42
CCS 155 Finished Goods Testing........................................................................................................43
CCS 156 Fully Vertical Down Supplier Testing.................................................................................43
CCS 157 CSC QC Monitoring............................................................................................................44

(III) Finished Garment Testing 54

Requirement.........................................................................................................................................54
Procedure..............................................................................................................................................54
Testing Evaluation and Reporting......................................................................................................56
 Torque / Skew.......................................................................................................................................57

(IV) CCS 1800 Seam Tape Commercialization 60

CCS 1801 Seam Seal Trial Condition.................................................................................................60
CCS 1802 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Procedures....................................................................62
CCS 1803 Testing Requirements.........................................................................................................62
CCS 1804 In-Process Seam Seal Testing Procedures.........................................................................63
CCS 1805 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures.............................................................64
CCS 1806 Seam Seal Troubleshooting................................................................................................65
CCS 1807 Seam Seal Tape Storage Examples....................................................................................67
CCS 1808 Seam Seal Exterior Appearance Examples.......................................................................68
CCS 1809 Seam Seal Interior Appearance Examples........................................................................69
CCS 1810 Seam Seal Test Report Form.............................................................................................70
CCS 1811 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Report Form.................................................................71

(V) Heat Transfer/Screen Print Quality Requirements 72

CCS 1850 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Commercialization................................................................72
CCS 1851 Application Equipment Requirements..............................................................................73
CCS 1852 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Development Testing.............................................................73
CCS 1854 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Procedures..............................................................74
CCS 1855 Heat Transfer Pre-Production Testing Requirements......................................................75
CCS 1856 In-Process Heat Transfer/Screenprint Audit Procedures................................................76
CCS 1857 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures.............................................................77
CCS 1858 Heat Transfer/Screen Print Troubleshooting...................................................................77
CCS 1860 Heat Transfer Exterior Appearance Examples................................................................78
CCS 1861 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Wash Test Report Form........................................................79
CCS 1862 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Report Form...........................................................80

(VI) Puckering Standards 81

Double Needle Puckering Standards..................................................................................................81
Single Needle Puckering Standards....................................................................................................82

(VII) A & E Technical Bulletin 83

Sewing Machine Maintenance.............................................................................................................83
 Sewing Maintenance Checklists.........................................................................................................................83
Preventative Maintenance..................................................................................................................................83
Stitch Forming System.......................................................................................................................................84
Thread Handling System....................................................................................................................................84
Other Thread Handling Systems.......................................................................................................................86
Stitch & Seam Quality........................................................................................................................................86

I) Introduction

(VIII) Factory Apparel Sizing Audits 88

(IX) Packaging Compliance Audits 91

Inspection Procedures..........................................................................................................................92
Lot Integrity and Selection.................................................................................................................................92
Packaging Compliance Audits...........................................................................................................................92
Auditing the Cartons..........................................................................................................................................92
Auditing the Contents.........................................................................................................................................92
Packaging Defects...............................................................................................................................................93
Audit Results.......................................................................................................................................................93
Audit Failures......................................................................................................................................................93

(X) QFI Introduction 94

(XI) Form Examples 96

Garment Wash Test Reporting Form Example.................................................................................96
Fabric Inspection Sample Form..........................................................................................................97
Fabric Inspection Worksheet..............................................................................................................97
Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 1 Form Example.................................................................................98
Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 2 Form Example.................................................................................99
Fabric Inspection Summary Report Form.......................................................................................100
Cutting Quality Control Inspection Form Example........................................................................101
Sample Sizing Worksheet Form Example........................................................................................102
Re-Audit Requirements and Form...................................................................................................103
Inline Inspection Form Example.......................................................................................................104

The Columbia Sportswear Apparel Factory Quality Control Manual summarizes our basic
Quality Control program and expectations. It is primarily intended to help most factories to
develop or improve their own, effective and efficient Quality Control Program. This is meant to
be a tool to help promote continuous improvement and serve as an industry standard that would
be accepted and be effective for all customers. As we begin to develop our supply base, we will
continue to evolve this new manual to address stronger Quality Assurance principles and
systems.
At Columbia, we believe in moving to a model of partnership and building quality into our
garments. Learning from mistakes, training, getting to the root cause and preventing problems
from reoccurring is a fundamental principle that must be learned and practiced throughout the
organization to show consistent, sustainable improvement. This especially applies at the factory
level and is at the core of how we’ve built our Factory Quality Systems Manual. Accurate data
gathering and effective monitoring to prevent passing problems onto the next area or internal
customer are key elements of our program.

If you have questions or need further assistance, please contact your local QC Area Office
Manager.

Liaison Office Quality Assurance Contacts

Please address all Quality related matters to the appropriate Area Office:

Region Name Phone Email Address

Korea Kevin Jung 011 82 2540 0277 kjung@columbia.com

Taiwan Jessie Sun 011 886 2 2698 4888 jsun@columbia.com

Americas Mitch Hammitt 503 985 4804 mhammitt@columbia.com

Vietnam Hai Ho 84 8 3863 4649 Ext.846 haih@columbia.com

India Michael Walmsley 011 91 44 2320098 mwalmsley@columbia.com

Sri Lanka W.C. Kandamby 94 11 4708616 wajirak@columbia.com

Hong Kong Kenneth Ng 011 852 2793 8978 kng@columbia.com

Shanghai Jimmy Fang 011 8621 61200 552 jimmyf@columbia.com

Beijing Denny Tai 852 2318 0012 dtai@columbia.com

Basic Quality Assurance Expectations

A factory must have a strong foundational Quality System, supported by Senior

Management and engrained in everyday practice and procedure. An effective and consistent
Quality program would combine Quality Control inspection and monitoring throughout
manufacturing, which we cover in this manual, with the Quality Assurance aspects of the
following, which we will expand upon at a later date:

Strong Management Controls:

o Effective leadership and proper planning
 Support and structure for Quality
 Formalized training
 System to manage procedures
 o Development/design controls and validation
 System to manage manufacturing standards
 Process for testing raw materials and production; repeatability
o Corrective and Preventive Action process

Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP):

o Equipment and facilities
 Housekeeping, organization, storage and production
o Preventive maintenance
o Materials control and organization
o Production and process controls
o Laboratory controls
o Finished product approval/release and handling

Responsibility For Quality

Obviously, all parties, internal or external throughout the supply chain must contribute to and
take responsibility for their role in overall product quality. Fabric mills must provide first quality
fabric, on time, to the garment factories and must respond to problems found promptly and
appropriately. It is the responsibility of the factory and the fabric mill to quickly resolve any
issues with a fabric shipment. The CSC MR team may oversee this process but should not be
expected to lead the resolution.

The fact that CSC recommends a fabric mill is unrelated and irrelevant. Ultimately, it is the
factory’s responsibility to meet first quality and delivery expectations. Rarely ever should a
problem progress through a factory without being detected internally. Swift corrective action and
communication with CSC is imperative prior to cutting fabric. This requires a strong fabric
inspection program.

CSC strongly encourages garment factories to establish in-house labs and complete basic
testing and inspect piece goods immediately upon receipt. Exceptions or extensions to CSC
fabric standards and tolerances, including overrides of failed tests, can only be approved by the
corporate MR and QA teams. The LO MR and QA Manager are responsible for gathering all
necessary data and communicating promptly with corporate MR and QA for a quick, joint
resolution.

All of our factories are required to use the Four Point System to formally inspect incoming fabric
prior to spreading/cutting. Factories will be required to keep scorecards to trend the
performance of fabric mills and work closely with the mills for improvement. We are planning an
automated process for many factories in the near future, which will be visible to CSC.

To help reduce the probability of problems arriving at the factories, we are requesting the
following at minimum be followed at the fabric mills:
o Strong Quality Systems and a Continuous Improvement program in place to ensure
quality and delivery excellence. We will soon begin a Mill Evaluation program to rate
their programs.
o The mill has become or is working to become a CSC Certified Testing Lab and has first
bulk approved by a Certified Lab.
o Quality monitoring and testing of each production run in-house; providing results to
factories
o Completes griege and finished goods inspections using the Four Point System; CSC
allows a maximum of 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods, 28 pts/100 sq yd for knits and a
 maximum of 20 points per square yard average for all rolls within a lot. You should state
these or your tighter expectations to the mill.
II) Fabric Inspection Program

Top management should promote appropriate trending of your fabric mill performance levels
and work closely with them in improvement and prevention efforts.

Unless you have long histories with excellent performance and have certified your fabric mill
partners, you are most likely in need of a strong fabric inspection program. This is a very
important and effective aspect of an apparel quality control program. Randomly inspecting piece
goods immediately upon receipt allows for quicker response to problem fabric.

Columbia recommends a minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading based
upon the Four Point System. Fabric Inspectors should be well trained and fully understand
fabric defects and characteristics. Training of all factory inspectors should promote defect
recognition consistency will suffer. Problematic

The purpose of this section is to:

o Provide a factory guideline for grading incoming fabric quality to be used by Columbia
Sportswear.
o Assist the factory in improving their process to detect defects and prevent them from
reaching finished garments.
o Provide a training frame work for inspectors to follow.
o Help with the communication between the factory and the vendor to resolve quality
problems.
o Help develop a Vendor Quality Report and promote trending performance.

Area for Inspection:

The inspection area should be open, clean and have good lighting over inspection frames and
the work area. Fabric rolls should not be staged standing on end. The inspection should take
place on a clean, properly lit, inspection machine that is appropriate for your fabric type and
size.

Equipment:

Inspection frame: The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive, a yard (or meter)
counter, under carriage light to see through the fabric and over head light for inspection of the
face of the fabric. Recommend the factory to have positive feed machine to avoid stretching the
fabric. Many knits will require an appropriate inspection machine.

Inspection speed: The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards of fabric per minute
(27 meters per minute) and should have both forward and reverse controls.

Viewing Distance: The inspection should be done from a distance of 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120
centimeters) in order to have a view of the entire width of fabric.

Lighting:
The surface illumination level should be a minimum of 1075 lux (100 foot candles).

Tools:

The tools listed below are needed for the fabric inspection:
o Measuring tape and defect stickers or swift-tacks
o Scissors and protective folders or bags
o Inspection form and defect standards
o Fabric standards and access to light box

Four Point System

The Four-Point System is the system Columbia recommends for suppliers implementing a new
piece goods inspection procedure or improving another method.

The Four Point System defines defects by their severity and assigns penalty points
appropriately. This scoring system is appropriate for greige or finished, knit or woven fabrics.

o Amount to Inspect
 Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls and yardage in the shipment. To meet the
requirement of both you may need to inspect more than 10% of the rolls or
yardage.

o Selection of Rolls
 Randomly select at least one roll of each color. If more than one roll per color
should be inspected, then select the number of additional rolls in proportion to
the total rolls per color received.
 All colors and dye lots should be included in this 10%, and more than 10% may
be necessary.
 For problem fabric or trim vendors, the 10% should be increased and the
inspection should be done by individual dye lots instead of on all colors.

Defect Classification

The Four-Point System classifies fabric defects as shown:

o Penalty Points:
All major defects regardless of direction, with the exception of holes should be scored
as:
Size of Defect Conversion Penalty
3 inches or less 0 to 7.5 cm. 1 point
Over 3, but not over 6 inches 7.6 to 15 cm. 2 points
Over 6, but not over 9 inches 15.1 to 22.5 cm. 3 points
Over 9 inches 22.6 cm. and Over 4 points

o Allowable Points
Columbia Sportswear requires no more than 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods, 28
pts/100 sq yd for knits.
The lot per average roll should not be more than 20 points per square yard.
Defect Classifications
For a complete list of woven and knit fabric defects, as well as the finished garment defect
codes, please refer to the Columbia Sportswear Defect Classifications Manual.

Fabric Inspection

Major Defects
Any defect severe enough that it would result in customer dissatisfaction, or generally classify
the garment as a second, or of less quality.

Minor Defects
An imperfection that may or may not cause a second, depending upon its location in the finished
garment.

Factories should maintain ongoing defect recognition training to ensure consistency among all
internal and external Inspectors. This includes having an updated fabric library.

Other Considerations
o Shade must match the approved standard from side to side and end to end
o throughout the roll
o Do not score minor defects, although you may want to mark them
o Do not count more than a total of four points per one linear yard
o Continuous running defects and others within one linear yard is only 4 points
o All holes are considered 4 points

Determining Pass/Fail

Columbia Sportswear requires no more than 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods, 28 pts/100 sq yd
for knits. The average per 100 square yards method is recommended to determine if a roll and
lot passes or fails.
To convert to points per sq yd, use:

Total Pts in inspected rolls x 36 x 100 = Avg. Points per 100 Square Yards
Width of Roll in inches x total yards inspected

Example

Total Rolls Received: 40 Total Yards Received: 4000

Total Yards Inspected at 10%: 400 Total Penalty Points Found: 98

Columbia Sportswear Standard: 1) 28 per 100 Sq Yards for any one roll
2) Average of rolls inspected within a lot is less than 20 pts

Example: 98 x 100 x 36 = 352,800 = 16.96 points per 100 sq yards

52” x 400 20,800

Inspection passed. Any single rolls with 28 or more pts would fail that roll. Failed rolls warrant
further inspection of that color and possibly the shipment.

In most cases, failed or problem lots should be 100% inspected to help facilitate the decision
making process. The factory should immediately contact the fabric mill with their findings and
alert the Columbia LO of any pending issues.
Primary Steps
Columbia Sportswear highly recommends all factories begin to test and inspect each fabric
shipment immediately upon receipt. This process is an important step to prevent delays caused
by poor fabric quality or an incorrect fabric delivery. A formal Fabric inspection process is
required and substituting inspection while spreading is not appropriate and strongly
discouraged.

o Sort fabrics to allow for easy access and limited movement during and after the
inspection process. Store fabric laying down not standing up on end. Do not store on
uncovered wood pallets.
o Select a minimum of 10% of each color and lot based upon the total rolls and yardage.
o Check that the PO was filled correctly for color, quantity, style and hand.
o Cut a 5 x 5 inch square from the corner of each roll shipped to build a run card. Compare
these to the standards under a light box using North Sky Daylight as the primary source
and CWF as the secondary source as outlined by the Columbia color guidelines.
o On each roll inspected cut a swatch from the front end of the roll after mounting. It
should be wide enough to cover all pattern repeats and be the full width of the roll.
Compare this swatch from side to side and against the Approved Production Standard
(APS) Use it to spot check throughout the roll, side to side and end to end, for shade
consistency and slight variation.
o Inspection frames should also use North Sky Daylight bulbs.
o All rolls should be inspected for the correct width, length, bowing, skew/bias and tested
per the Columbia Sportswear fabric testing requirements. Tolerances should be clearly
stated for fabric width and weight by style and each roll should be verified.
o Mark defects at the selvedge to help Cutting and QC monitor these.
o Trend fabric mill performance closely and communicate often to promote improvement.

Cost of the fabric will typically dictate if the fabric defects are cut out at inspection or later in
spreading. Should any quality issues exist that may delay production or is potentially significant,
please notify your local Columbia office Quality Manager and Merchandiser immediately.
Please work directly with the mill to help determine appropriate action and resolution.

Other
Factories should specify the following on their PO:

o Number of allowed splices within a roll and within the lot

o Tolerance or minimum length and width of acceptable rolls
o Points allowed for the Four Point System Inspection
o Should require the mill inspection and testing results along with the standard
o Rolls should be required to be covered in polyethylene, appropriately labeled and
received in good condition.

Knit Bundle Inspections

The Four Point System to determine acceptability still applies.

o If delicate knits are involved, a normal inspection frame may stretch the fabric
 A tubular knit inspection machine allows both sides to be inspected
 Should be ran slow enough to see both sides
 Mirrors must be clean to notice defects
o Knit bundles can be inspected on an appropriate table
o Ensure inspection coverage of both sides for tubular knits
Color and Shade Control

A formal Color Control program is recommended and should include appropriate communication
between the Fabric Mill, Trims Supplier, Factory and Retailer. The Piece Goods Inspection,
Testing, Cutting Department, Production and QC Teams should work closely to ensure color and
shade accuracy and consistency is met and maintained.

Color and Shade Control Basics

o Each fabric roll or bundle is checked for proper shade match
o 6-8” wide swatch cut from edge to edge or wide enough to cover a repeat
o Compared to standard under light box - usually 2 equal layers/plies
o Use head in swatch to compare side-side and end to end of inspected rolls
o Shade run cards kept to log all received rolls and used to improve mill performance
o Keep approved, dated standard swatch, clean, covered and out of light
 Replace standard every 6-12 months if used frequently or worn
 Must represent actual fabric construction
o Maintain a strong program to test annually for color perception using the Farnsworth –
Munsell 100 Hue Color Test
 Include on-going supply chain color calibration with your program
 Check Color personnel, Inspectors, managers with override ability, merchandisers,
sales and others as appropriate
o Certain fabrics such as synthetics may be more difficult to shade; identify a process

Color Program Basics

Equipment
o Should have Macbeth Spectral Light II or III light box
o Area should not be influenced by surrounding room lighting
o Failed bulbs should be replaced in pairs; D65 is primary source, CWF secondary
o Calibration should meet recommended intervals and be recorded
o Top of unit fan must be kept clean and unobstructed
o Light plexi-glass cover must be lint and dust free inside
o Inside box must be free of paper, etc… repaint w/ Munsel N7 if needed

Viewing
o View sample and standard side by side at 45 degree angle; use diagonal board
o Observer’s line of sight should be at 90 degrees
o Need a customer ‘communication guide’ to explain issues and corrections
 E.g., Metamerisim; slightly bright and red in D65, reformulate to correct
Proper Lighting
o There should be 100 foot candles on inspection surfaces or, approximately 1075 lux
o Inspection area lighting should be D65 the CS primary light source
 Post guidelines for various customers to avoid confusion
o For critical shading:
 Minimize other light sources; sodium vapor or halogen lights
 Dove grey or Munsell N7 grey laminated table tops are ideal
o Light height should be appropriate for area, usually 4-10 foot range

Approved Production Standard – APS

The factory should receive an approved standard along with the test reports for each dye lot of
first bulk production. They should be used to confirm color, shade, hand and aesthetics of the
fabrics received. It may be necessary to also compare to previously established shade bands.
Subsequent shipments of the same lot should be compared to the initial standard. Standards
must be kept clean, covered and out of the light. They should be labeled with the fabric mill and
factory names, PDM fabric number, color code, name and date. Standards should be replaced if
dirty and worn.

Run Cards and Shade Bands

A Run Card should be kept for internal factory purposes and used to share performance results
with fabric mills. Approved Run Cards and any subsequent Shade Bands need to be safely
stored for 2 seasons for easy reference. The factory color/shade approval person (Colorist)
should ensure consistency from roll to roll and dye lot to dye lot. Roll numbers should be
identified. Swatches from each roll should be large enough for proper shading against the
approved standards under a light box using D65 as the primary source and CMF as the
secondary.

Shade Bands should be established and furnished to the local LO Colorist for approval if
questionable or problematic shade variation exists. The factory should ensure that the
questionable swatch is truly representative of the majority of the roll. Variances in shade should
be addressed by classifying each roll into groups and maintaining their integrity throughout
production.

Differences in shade at the garment stage should not be conspicuous enough to prevent them
from being displayed side by side. The factory must determine how problem fabric can best be
handled to meet their production needs without causing quality problems in the finished product.

Trim and Raw Material Inspections

Inspections should be completed on all incoming trim items including, all labels, snaps, buttons,
zippers, Velcro, phemos, tapes, elastics, eyelets, patches, packing materials etc..
o A 1.5 AQL Normal or Tightened sampling should be used to accept individual quantities
 If a consignment is less than 500 pieces, inspect at least 10% randomly or a min
of 20 pieces, whichever is higher
o For rolls of trim, follow the principles of the Four Point System, inspecting a min. of 10%

Inspections should include:

o Shade, color, size, design, layout, wording where appropriate, PDM number, graphics
o Compared to the approved sew-by sample
 o General quality and consistency
o Quantity received against packing list and ordered quantity
o Product Safety implications – no metal is to be used in the packaging of materials and
must be checked through a metal detector
o All non confirming goods to be segregated, clearly marked and stored separately
o Failed lots are to be inspected 100% and reaudited
o Trim cards should be approved by Columbia Sportswear QA

Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection – Trims/Findings/Raw Materials

(For Items of Quantity)
MIL STD 105E / ANSI / ASQC Table 1-A

Recommended Inspection Level is .65.

Acceptable Quality Levels

(normal inspection)

.65 1.0 1.5

PO or Lot Size Sample Size Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
 2-8 2 0 0

9 - 15 3 0 0

16 - 25 5 0 1

26 - 50 8 0 1 0 1 0 1

51 - 90 13 0 1 0 1 0 1
91 - 150 20 0 1 0 1 0 1

151 - 280 32 0 1 1 2 1 2

281 - 500 50 1 2 1 2 2 3

501 - 1,200 80 1 2 2 3 3 4

1201 - 3,200 125 2 3 3 4 5 6

3201 - 10,000 200 3 4 5 6 7 8

10,001 – 35,000 315 5 6 7 8 10 11

35,001 – 150,000 500 7 8 10 11 14 15

150,001 -500,000 800 10 11 14 15 21 22

500,001 and over 800 10 11 14 15 21 22

This plan should also be shared with and used by your Trim/Accessories suppliers, at the same .65 level
to reduce the differences in inspection results. A Scorecard should be used to trend performance of all
suppliers.
III) Fabric Testing Basics

Most factories should have a basic Laboratory in-house to test fabric and finished garments.
The ability of a factory to fulfill this requirement will weigh heavily in the new CSC Factory
Quality Systems Evaluation and future Vender Certification program.

Test results should be captured and combined with Fabric Inspection results to determine the
status of the lot. These results should be detailed and used for fabric mill improvement efforts.

Production garments should also be tested for each production lot, noting Appearance
Retention results, and the line performance trended for improvement purposes.

Basic wash testing of fabric should be completed immediately upon fabric receipt. Basic wash
test should include:
o Shrinkage should be tested on a minimum of 1 roll of every 10 inspected at inspection.
 1 of every 20 rolls inspected on subsequent shipments of the same style
 A minimum of 3 wash-dry cycles should be done with calculations after each
 Shrinkage should be monitored for necessary pattern adjustments
o Appearance retention should be evaluated after final wash, comparing to standard
o Bleeding (with multi-fiber strips), wet and dry crocking should also be checked
o Weight and count should be checked from each roll from each style and color
o A daily finished garment production testing process should be in place; track by line & lot

Finished Garment Testing Summary

For complete program, please see appendix.

Factory testing of the finished garment provides an early opportunity to react to issues related to
washing and construction once all components have been combined. This is also an excellent
way to monitor a line’s machine settings and sewing techniques. The severity of stitch tension,
skewing, puckering, roping, blooming of rib necks and poor construction may be magnified after
wash and these results should result in immediate line adjustments.

Requirement

Columbia Sportswear (MHW, Pacific Trail, Titanium, Sorel, etc.) requires a garment from first
production and each color be tested for basic after wash performance. We also require that any
primary factory have it’s own lab for basic wash testing. Tests to perform will depend upon
product but would primarily include:

o Dimensional Stability ( Shrinkage)

o Appearance Retention
o Bleeding (Color fastness)
o Skewness (Torque)
o Wet and Dry Crocking
Procedure Summary

o Follow care instructions and AATCC 135 ( CSSP 206 )

o Complete 3 wash and dry cycles and allowed to condition for a minimum of 4 hours
o Check dimensional stability and skewness/ torque ( CSSP 207 )
o Examine color blocked styles for staining after both the 1st and 3rd wash cycles
o Use the AATCC Grey scales and multi-fiber strips to grade color change and staining
o A light box with a daylight D65 illuminant should be used when rating the color
o Re-inspect the garment for the physical appearance retention. A list of key points to
review are given in table form under Evaluation and Reporting. Has the appearance
deteriorated due to any reason such as:
 Seam puckering
 Differential shrinkage between materials
 Pilling

Testing Evaluation and Reporting

A table listing standards and tolerances is included in the Finished Garment Testing procedure.
Any issues related to fabric should be immediately addressed with the fabric mill and resolved
promptly to avoid delay in shipment. Also alert your local area Materials Research and Quality
personnel. Approval to use out of tolerance fabric must come from Corporate MR and QA.
IV) Cutting and Spreading Inspections

The cutting department is a major profit center which can often be overlooked. It has a
tremendous influence on the cost and quality of the finished product. In general, about 45% to
60% of a garment’s cost is fabric, but about 90% of a cutting room’s cost is in fabric. Controlling
fabric loss is extremely important.

A Cutting Department’s Objective should include:

o Consistently provide sewing with accurate cut parts for each operation
 As specified and within tolerance
o Control cost of fabric through material utilization, less rework, loss and scrap
o Maintain reasonable direct labor costs

A formal approval ‘release process’ should be in place that signifies that all appropriate
components, directions and documents are ready for ‘release’ to the cutting department.
Included in the release process would be approvals for, but not limited to:

o Marker accuracy against pattern, spec, direction and related cutting notations
o Clear instructions for fabric face/bottom, direction, nap, type of spread/cut
o Fabric roll, style, shade integrity
o Pattern considerations for fabric shrinkage
o Separation of rolls for shade control

Spreading and Cutting Room Quality Control personnel should verify that the formal approval
release process has occurred at they begin inspections of a lot.

Monitoring Spreading and Cutting

A key to efficient monitoring is good communication between the Quality and cutting room
teams. Quick response and follow-up help prevent bigger issues and reduce costs. Typically,
one or two dedicated inspectors are capable of monitoring spreading and cutting

Production pay incentives are common for most positions, but can be detrimental if not tied to
quality performance incentives also. A strong in-process monitoring of spreading and cutting
should trend performance results of individuals. These results should initiate training and
corrective action as needed.

Random Sampling

Effective inspection requires random examination of cutting operations. An Inspector should not
avoid patterns and routines that reduce the random aspect of the inspection. The order of
personnel and operations should be changed frequently. Make every effort to get a fair
representation of the cutting production by making random checks.
Spreading

Important Points For Knits

o Establish and follow a formal procedure to relax knits as long as necessary, prior to
spreading, after spreading and after cutting as warranted by fabric characteristics.
o Spreading machine should be monitored for a very relaxed speed and lack of tension.
o Spreading machines without de-tensioning capability (positive feed), is not
recommended for knits.
o Ply heights of knits must be controlled and be appropriate to the actual cutting method.
o Place pattern correctly on quarter turned fabric so the fold will fall on the side of a
garment.

Spreading and Cutting QC Inspector Procedures

Inspectors should monitor and record results for each Spreader a minimum of twice per day. A
formal marker approval process should be in place and all fabric and documents also approved
prior to release. Any relaxation needs should be verified. The primary characteristics to monitor
in spreading would include:

o Edge and end alignment (CTC- critical to cost)

o Tension of spread (CTQ- critical to quality)
o Table marks
o Splices and overlaps
o Accuracy of marker including condition
o Marker placement
o Pattern check
o Cuttable width
o Direction and type of spread
o Ply counts
o Straight edge / leaning
o Bowing of fabric
o Shading and general quality
o No staples or pins should be used

Performance levels should be tracked and additional training provided as needed.

To determine a spreaders defect rate divide the number of defects found by the ply height.

Any major inaccuracies would be considered defects and fail the inspection. Failures are
rejected back to the supervisor who reviews with the Spreader(s). The spread should be
corrected and a re-audit done by QC after re-inspection. The Spreader is then audited three
more consecutive times, until no mistakes are found. At that point, he would go back to a normal
rotation.
Cutting Room Inspector Procedures

Manual Cutting Inspections

Regardless of the type of cutting operation, manual, manual die, automated die, or CNC, a
random statistical inspection program will help ensure consistent accuracy. Cutters or cutting
operations should be monitored a minimum of twice per day with problem areas or failures
receiving more attention. Accurate and detailed record keeping will allow you to track individual
performance trends. Appropriate training should be provided as a result.

The sampling plan process can be the same approach as the in-process inspection. The bundle
of plies of a single cut component is considered one unit. To determine the lot size, total the
number of bundles. Follow the Normal level single sampling plan. We encourage you to use a
1.5 AQL, but not more than the 2.5 AQL. For each sampled bundle (unit), inspect a top, middle
and bottom ply from each. Compare to a hard pattern following the appropriate written
tolerances.

Failures are rejected back to the supervisor who reviews with the Cutter. A Cutter should 100%
inspect the cut and correct all problems. A re-audit is done by QC after re-inspection. The Cutter
is then audited three more consecutive times, until no mistakes are found. Any major
inaccuracies would be considered defects and fail the inspection. The Cutter is then audited
three more consecutive times, until no mistakes are found. At that point, he would go back to a
normal rotation. To calculate the defect rate for cutting, divide the total defects found by the
number of bundles checked.

Inspectors should monitor and record results for each Cutter a minimum of twice per day. The
primary characteristics to monitor in cutting would include:

o Ply matching
o Mis-cuts
o Poor cutting or edges
o Notch depth and placement

A sample QA Cutting form can be found in the Forms Section.

o Change control procedures need to be enforced for adjustments to markers/patterns.
o Do not make changes on the pattern/marker for the Cutter to correct. Make a new
pattern/marker. Preventive measures are the best control for quality.
o Care of patterns is important. Closely monitor the wear, care and handling of patterns
and markers. Hard patterns should be used when possible. Patterns with worn corners
should be replaced to prevent issues in cutting.

The above mentioned inspection method applies to the following as well.

CNC / Computer Cutting

Gerber is the most commonly used Computer Numeric Controlled cutting machine, but all
brands would be treated the same.

o The cutter should be calibrated each shift and the operator should be able to
demonstrate the process and share documentation.
o Follow the same inspection process as manual cutting.
 Inspectors must have specs, tolerances for each cut part.
 Use a hard pattern to check cut parts from the top, middle and bottom plies.
 Random inspections should be done at least 2 times per shift, per cutter
o Important to have formal detailed guidelines and/or direction for:
 Calibration for proper cutting
 Proper tools and sizes for drill holes and notches
 Need documented daily check of cut accuracy and wear of cutting head
 Routine replacement of ‘finger blocks

Bierrebi (B-R-B)

The BRB continuously feeds tensionless tubular knits through a high quality cut process.
It can be an excellent opportunity to reduce cost in a cutting room and promotes more
automated sewing.

The operator per machine has a direct affect on quality. On multiple part garments most BRB’s
require one roll feeder /defect flagger, per machine and one bundler per two machines. This
minimizes defects going to sewing and keeps machine uptime at a maximum.

Other points:
o Very fast and accurate - 1200 T-shirts or 2400 briefs per hour
o Knits must be properly relaxed prior to cutting, regardless of cut method
o Should have tensioning devise on Bierrebi even after relaxing
o Calibration and preventive maintenance schedules must be followed
o Proper service and lubrication to prevent wear and contamination
o Ragged edges are a sign of dull dye blade
o Proper storage and handling of blades is very important
o Dye cutting needs the same inspection process as manual cutting
o A max of 2.5 AQL, statistical sample based upon # of cut bundles
o Each machine should be checked at least twice per day
o Top, middle and bottom plies should be checked
o Measured with a hard pattern, using written tolerances
o A program should be in place to prevent lint buildup throughout the day
V) In-process Inspections

In-process inspection, corrective/preventive action and trending operator performance will

provide the factory the ability to identify problems at an early stage and to rectify quality issues
before packing, while building an environment that encourages quality to be built into the
garments. In-line inspection is also an important process to reduce costs of rework, scrap and
failed inspections.

It is part of the inspector’s responsibilities to assist the in building quality attitudes of the
operators and all sewing room staff. They should work closely with and assist the sewing line
supervisor in building quality improvement efforts.

Inspector Procedures

Progressive Bundle Systems

Progressive bundle production systems may come in many variations, but can all be monitored
very effectively by the follow-up bundle system. Many factories refer to their lines as modular
units, cells, team sewing, but are really just a progressive bundle system with a few wrinkles
such as arranged in a U shape.

The follow-up bundle system doesn’t apply to true modular manufacturing, which is addressed
later in this section.

Follow-up Bundle Inspections

We believe this is a very effective in-process inspection process when managed properly and
data used for training and continuous improvement efforts. Root cause analysis and problem
solving should be a formal process that is initiated by inspection reports and other quality
incidents. A factory must quickly respond and get to the true cause, take corrective action and
implement preventive measures.

Reports should be reviewed throughout the day and recapped at the end of the day.
Management must have a strong process in place to address the top 3 (or primary types; eg,
sewing defects in general) defects or problems.

The follow-up bundle method provides the operator with the incentive to do it right the first time,
and to immediately correct any problems she/he sees before passing it on. The incentive is that
if you keep making mistakes, you will get more inspection and supervisor attention, and you will
correct your own problems. An operator should be pulled from the operation, and given more
training, if she is not capable of high quality.
Inspectors should be thoroughly trained in all aspects of inspection and defect classification. It is
extremely important to build consistency between all inspectors throughout the factory, no
matter what position they hold. Please refer to the Defect Recognition and Consistency exercise
in the appendix for a great, fun learning tool.

Our recommended Inspector to Operator ratio is one to 25, maximum. As problem areas
develop this ratio may need to go down. Certain critical operations may need to be checked
hourly. In these situations, a factory may instead decide to place a stationary inline 100%
inspection of components built until that point. In this case, operator performance records
should still be maintained. Random inspection may not be needed as often for operations prior
to the stationary in-line 100% inspection.

Until the line/operator is performing at an exceptional level, each operator should be checked a
minimum of 3 times per day randomly. All operators who are new to the operation should be
checked hourly until they pass 3 passed consecutive inspections.

The standard sample size to inspect from a bundle is seven pieces. Five pieces would be
acceptable for bundles less than 24 garments. Anytime the Inspector finds one defective unit out
of seven/five inspected, the inspection fails and the bundle is given back to the operator and
must be 100% inspected. The Line Supervisor should be alerted and will follow-up with the
operator.

Once the 100% inspection is complete by the operator, the QC Inspector re-inspects the failed
bundle. Three consecutive bundles are then inspected. If all pass, the operator falls back into
the normal rotation. If one of the follow-up inspections fail, the process starts over.

Summary of the Follow-up Bundle Process

o Maintain a maximum ratio of 1 Inspector to every 25 operators

o Randomly select operators to inspect; do not fall into a pattern
o Randomly select and inspect 7 pieces from a bundle and record number and type of
defects
 5 pieces may be appropriate for bundles under 24 pieces
o Reject the bundle back to the operator if one or more defects is found and alerts the
supervisor
o The operator re-inspects 100% and offers back to the inspector for a reaudit of 7 pieces
o The next three bundles will then become follow-up inspections
 The operator must pass all 3 to return to normal rotation
o The In-process Inspector should NOT do the 100% inspection on rejected bundles
o The inspector should inspect at her workstation, not by the operator
 Mobile well equipped inspection tables/carts are very effective
o Rotating inspectors between lines is a good practice
o Failed bundles should be wrapped with a bright strip of cloth to segregate from the
others
 Follow-up bundles should be wrapped in another bright color to ensure
inspection
  A 5 part perforated ticket also is a good tool to track failed and follow-up bundles
 A failed follow-up bundle restarts the process of 3 follow-ups
o Accurate and detailed recording and trending of inspections is critical to success
 See the example form listed in the appendix

VI) Additional Monitoring

Inline inspection, 100% inspection and Final Audit performance results should determine the
level of inspection or monitoring needed inline. You may determine that a stationary 100% inline
inspection is needed after a critical operation, for example, in addition to the normal random
inspections done inline. This can be a very effective way to drive down inline defect rates.
Another approach would be to increase the ratio of inline inspectors to operators to improve
coverage and monitoring.

It is very important to maintain low inline defect rates to relieve the inappropriate burden of
finding defects within the 100% inspection and/or Final Audit. Do not expect these areas to be a
‘catch all’ to ensure quality.

Modular Manufacturing

True modular manufacturing typically would have many of the following characteristics:
o Highly cross-trained operators working in a true team modular unit
o Inspect their own work, individually and as a group
o Able to call their own meetings and stop production if needed
o Roughly 10 operators per unit
o No real work in process; a pull system instead of a push system
o No progressive bundle systems
o QC inspects outside the team and not inline
o Uses a team incentive based upon Attendance, Production and Quality
o Requires strong HR training to support culture change and team building

Seam Seal / Bonding

In-process monitoring of the seam seal operations can be done in the same manner the Inline
bundle inspections we recommended. This operation should be randomly checked a minimum
of three times per day. Additional monitoring and testing should be as follows:
o Tape should be organized, labeled and stored properly
o Seam seal and bonding areas should be in a controlled environment
o Suter testing done frequently inline or in a lab
o Uses a minimum of 3 PSI for one minute
o Monitor seam strength and glue
o Min. checks done: in the morning, after shut down for lunch, shift change or other
o Use a formal daily calibration and preventive maintenance process

Please refer to the appendix for additional information and current procedures.
Measurement Procedures

Garment measurements should be spot checked as part of the random bundle inspections
inline. The 100% inspection operation should also require each inspector to spot check all
critical measurements periodically throughout each hour. Ideally, this should be done at a ratio
that can be easily monitored by supervision, such as one garment for every seven inspected.
This greatly increases the chance of finding an out of tolerance or negative trend. If a problem is
noted the inspector should notify Quality or supervision for further investigation.

In addition to the above, a formal measurement process should take place by Quality each hour
or every other hour on an appropriate quantity of garments from a line. The results should be
logged graphically to easily illustrate measurement trends and line stability. This can also be
done as part of the Pre-Final Audit if used. Negative trends and/or out of tolerance must be
reacted to immediately.

Pre-Final Inspections

Where additional monitoring is necessary, a Pre-Final Audit may be warranted. It can be done in
many ways and can be very effective as a ‘batch audit’ in small quantities of goods. This should
be done after 100% inspection and can be setup to be done on every hour or two of production.
Failures can be reacted to promptly and should result in corrective and preventive actions. This
should also allow you to track the performance of the 100% inspection personnel as well as an
individual line.

Quality Reports and Daily Meeting

All daily reports for Quality should be reviewed on a daily basis and a plan established to
address the top 2-3 issues each day. Use the 80% - 20% rule, to focus on the few problems that
result in the most issues or have the most impact. A formal Corrective Action process needs to
be in place to address the reoccurring issues and eliminate the root cause. Management
typically fails to use their reports effectively.
Inline, 100% inspection, measurement and any additional inspection reports should be analyzed
in total to determine an operator’s performance level. This will provide the information to
determine further training needs and will uncover performance or machinery trends that can be
improved.
Reports should also be used to determine increased or reduced inspection needs for the
following day or longer period.

Quality Standards

An approved standard should be available on each operation and a finished approved garment
should be displayed at the end of each line. Each should include the appropriate specifications,
documentation and instructions.
Display and Organizational Boards

Performance levels for production and quality, including daily and long-term goals should be
prominently displayed at the end of each line. Tool organization boards or cabinets should also
be used to improve efficiency and safety.

Recognition and Incentive Programs

Everyone wants to be appreciated and recognized for good performance. We highly

recommend a program that shows the factory’s appreciation for meeting set quality performance
levels. The most effective programs use monetary incentives for meeting quality, production and
attendance goals appropriate for the level of personnel and position. This program should apply
throughout the factory, not just to operators.

Defect Codes

It is recommended that you use the same defect codes as we use in our Columbia Sportswear
inspections, so that proper comparison and correlation can take place. Regardless, the codes
you use must be specific enough to allow effective problem solving and root cause analysis.

Pilot Lots

A factory should have a formal Pilot Lot process to ensure proper and efficient line set ups. This
is a tool to fully ‘qualify’ a line and product for capability and repeatability. The process should
include technical, Quality, production and mechanical interaction and approval. This information
and actual production modifications and results should be used as a learning tool for
subsequent production runs.

Vestibule Training

A formal training program is necessary to build quality and reduce costs. A vestibule training
area should be complete with experienced trainers, fully equipped with the tools and program to
be effective. This area should be separate from a production. New hires should be graduated
from training after established criteria and proficiency levels are is met. Trainers should monitor
a trainee until further levels are met after they join the line.

Vestibule training also provides the factory with the ability to pull experienced operators off the
line for additional training. A slight change in techniques could easily help an operator move
from 85% to 100%. The payback is quick and the operator helps spread the good news.
VII) Final Inspection

(Also known as End of Line, ‘100% Inspection’ or ‘Inspect and Trim’)

The 100% inspection of finished garments as they leave the sewing line is a valuable tool to
assist in your corrective and preventive action process. This inspection is known as Final
Inspection, End-of-Line or Inspect and Trim. It may be done at the end of the line, or in another
area.

What’s most important is that detailed records by operator and defects found are kept and used
for continuous improvement and training. These results should be combined with the In-process
Audit results to determine the true performance of each operator, over an appropriate period of
time. Detailed record keeping in your Final (100%) Inspection area, will indicate specific trends
with certain operations, products and operators. This important information allows you to take
the necessary preventive action steps for current and future production.

Criteria of a Strong Final Inspection (100% Inspection):

o Inspectors should work under the Quality Department and be thoroughly trained
 Cross-training and rotating Inspectors will improve effectiveness and efficiency
o Work areas must be well lit, clean and have room for good, thorough inspections
o Specifications, standards, records and appropriate tools should be easily available
o Defects should be returned to the operator for repair and be reinspected
o Garments should be inspected fully, inside and outside
o Combine results with Inline reports to identify problem operations
o Provide good quality floor mats and stools for occasional leaning/sitting to avoid fatigue
o A short break in the morning and afternoon will help keep inspectors fresh and attentive

Garment Wash

Garment washed programs should have a 100% inspection done prior to wash to spot any
needed repairs and track operator and line performance. After wash, a second 100% inspection
should be completed in the same manner as the pre-wash inspection. Types of defects should
be monitored closely and compared to the previous inline and 100% results. This will point out
any areas with sewing that weren’t obvious prior to washing.
o Compare garments to approved wash standard for appearance and hand
o Garments must be measured thoroughly for all sizes/colors

Note: See appendix for Finished Garment Testing requirements. Garment wash items are not
excluded from finished testing.
VIII) The Final Audit Process

A strong Final Statistical Audit should be in place to verify that your systems have worked
properly and expectations for quality, sizing and packaging have been met. This process should
not be a ‘catch all’ for quality problems, but instead should have rare failures and serve more to
monitor performance improvement efforts. High defect percentages and frequent failures
indicate gaps within your systems that need immediate improvement.

Random Sampling

It is critical that all samples are randomly selected from a segregated lot. This collection of
finished garments must remain isolated until the inspection has been fully completed. A key to
random sampling is that each and every garment has a chance to be selected for the initial
sample. All cartons included in the lot must be available at the time the audit begins.

Management must ensure that all sampling is selected randomly throughout the factory
regardless of the type of inspection. Be sure the inconvenient cartons are being selected as
much as those with easy access. Garments sampled should also be pulled randomly from within
the cartons.

Sampling Plans

Columbia Sportswear requires the ANSI / Mil Std Single Sampling, Normal Level 2.5 AQL, or
tighter, be used at Final Audit for Columbia merchandise. Columbia Quality Inspectors will use a
Double sampling plan for our Final Audits and a Single sampling plan on any reaudits of failed
lots.

When to Inspect

In most cases, it is preferable to begin your Final Audit from a lot or cut# that is packaged and
complete.

However, under some circumstances such as products continuously produced in high volume or
that require detailed packaging, the final audit may be completed before packaging. If the
sample audit fails, the merchandise can be re-inspected more efficiently, without destroying
packaging material and wasting labor. If this approach is taken, frequent audits should be made
on packaged stock, to prevent packaging problems. These units inspected for packaging need
not be opened and inspected for workmanship.
Auditing production by time periods (approving every hour, or every two hours of production)
can be an effective way to respond to problems and keep reinspection quantities low. This
‘funnel’ approach can be effective for many factories but require close supervision, good product
handling and strict subsequent packaging audits.
o BOM
o Minimum Construction Specifications
o Written basic quality standards for each product
o All translated manufacturer specifications should include
 Specific fiber content, labels, hang tags and care labeling.
o Graphic, detailed instructions of how the garments should be made
o An approved finished garment standard with PP sample with comments
o Approved color swatches for each lot and the approved trim card
o Final Audit forms to record data
o Sampling Plan for 2.5 AQL Normal Inspection Level
o Clean, spacious work area with table and proper lighting (100 Foot Candles) for
inspection
o Tape measure in good condition and routinely verified to be accurate
o Access to body forms where available
o Obvious markers to identify defects
Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection.
The minimum acceptable AQL is 2.5. For a higher confidence level use the 1.0 or 1.5 accept /reject
tables.
MIL STD 105E / ANSI / ASQC Standard Z1.4-1993

Acceptable Quality Levels

(normal inspection)

1.0 1.5 2.5

PO or Lot Size Sample Size Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re

2-8 2 0 1

9 - 15 3 0 1

16 - 25 5 0 1

26 - 50 8 0 1 0 1

51 - 90 13 0 1 0 1 0 1
91 - 150 20 0 1 0 1 1 2

151 - 280 32 0 1 1 2 2 3

281 - 500 50 1 2 2 3 3 4

501 - 1,200 80 2 3 3 4 5 6

1201 - 3,200 125 3 4 5 6 7 8

3201 - 10,000 200 5 6 7 8 10 11

10,001 and over 315 7 8 10 11 14 15

For Quality Attributes – To be used in conjunction with the sizing and packaging audits.
Using the “How To Measure” Manual

It is critical to help eliminate measurement related problems that you use the Columbia
Sportswear “How To Measure” Manual. A copy of this manual will be included in your Qualified
Inspector Training Material or is available through your local QA team.

Please refer to the sample Sizing Worksheet Form in the Forms section of this document.

Re-Audits

It is very important to understand that failed inspections create needless rework costs, delays
and possibly cancellations. Do not complicate matters by not doing a thorough 100% re-
inspection of all failed lots. Failing a Final Audit, and especially failing a re-audit, can be very
expensive for the factory. Proper preventive measures and strong quality systems and training
will help reduce audit failures and needless rework.

The following is a recap of the re-audit procedures. All failed audits must be re-audited
promptly, after the factory has 100 % inspected.

o All failed factory audits should pass a factory re-audit prior to presenting to CSQC
o Re-audits on quality related failures are re-inspected for all quality attributes, not just for
the reason for failure
o Sizing failures may be reaudited for the particular critical point of measure that failed
o Packaging reaudits would typically require a reaudit for all packaging related attributes
o All pieces of multiple piece sets are re-inspected in a quality re-audit as a selling unit
o Factory must isolate the failed lot and maintain count of removed garments (seconds)
 Do not add new items to the failed lot, even to replace seconds/defects, a new audit
will be done on those
o All seconds must have the labels cut, marked through with a marker, or stamped
IRREGULAR
o Seconds will be verified for quantity and disfiguring by the CSQC at time of the re-audit

Important points to remember:

o Use the CS single sampling plan 2.5 AQL or better; CSQC will use the same plan
o A thoroughly random sample is critical for accuracy

The Factory QC Inspector should use the sampling plan to determine how many garments to re-
audit, after the factory 100% inspection. Samples should be selected randomly using a
minimum of a 2.5 AQL.

The same table can be used for quality, sizing and/or packaging internal re-audits. Whenever a
lot fails, you must 100% inspect to eliminate all classifications of defects.
We suggest the following process for the larger quantities of internal factory audit failures and
Columbia audit failures:

o On larger lot sizes, after 20% of the lot has been 100% inspected, stop and review the
data. Combine the sample audit data with the 20% inspection data
o If the projected defect rate is still higher than the AQL, you must continue to inspect the
remaining 80% of the failed lot
o If the re-inspection defect rate is lower than the AQL, you can stop the 100% inspection
o It is very important that the initial 20% of garments inspected is pulled randomly, which
will provide more accurate results

Please refer to the Columbia Re-Audit Form at the end of this document. Form should be
completed and given to the CSQC Inspector when he/she arrives to complete any re-audit.
VIII) Qualified Factory Inspector Program

We are implementing the above program we refer to as QFI program, in which we will train a
team of factory Quality Inspectors to monitor and be responsible for the quality of Columbia
Sportswear products throughout the manufacturing process. The introduction to this program is
in the appendix and a separate manual is available. The program is intended to reduce the
hands on activities of our QC team and empower the factories to audit and release merchandise
once their performance level goals are met and maintained.
APPENDIXES

I) Broken Needle and Auxiliary Sewing Tool Policy

Columbia Sportswear Company requires that no metal items used in production of materials,
trims or completed packaged product make it to the final consumer where there is potential for
injury.

Auxiliary Tools Policy:

o Columbia Sportswear requires that suppliers follow a strict auxiliary tools control policy
which is defined as follows:
1. No pins or staples should be used during any stage of Columbia Sportswear
production.
2. All auxiliary sewing tools such as trimmers, scissors or any other sharp metal object
used during the course of production should be attached to the machine or table top
as shown in the attached photos.
3. If an auxiliary tool is lost, the procedure below must be followed.
 Inform the supervisor
 Check current bundle through metal detector
 Record the loss in the record book.

Sewing Needle Policy:

o Columbia Sportswear requires that all suppliers follow a strict needle control system
which is defined as follows:
1. There must be only one person responsible for dispensing sewing needles.
2. The responsible person must keep the needles in a safe, locked location and
keep detailed records to confirm that no needles are lost in production.
3. If a needle is broken during manufacturing then the following process must be
followed:
 Stop the machine
 Inform the supervisor
 Locate all broken needle parts
 If all broken needle parts cannot be located, then the current bundle must
be scanned through a metal detector.
 Return broken parts to the needle control person.
 Needle control person will record the information on a broken needle log
and issue a new sewing needle to the supervisor
4. All workers must follow the above policy, including the machinists, mechanics,
production line workers and sample room workers.
Metal Detector Policy:

o Columbia Sportswear requires that all Youth and Japan products starting Fall 06 is to be
passed through a metal detection system to confirm that no foreign metal objects are
included in the garment.
o Inspection quantity should be 100% of order quantity.
o Metal detection should be the final process performed before item is placed in the
carton.
o Metal detection should take place AFTER all work including repairs has been completed,
but prior to sealing the polybag. Record findings on CCS 125A.
o Metal detection machine should be calibrated to 1.0mm at the start of each shift and
recorded on CCS 125B.
o Metal detection certificate must be completed for each shipment.
o Metal detection certificate must be submitted to Columbia QC during final inspection.
o Corporate requirement is that Columbia QC will pass all units inspected at Final
inspection through the metal detector.

Claims:

o Columbia Sportswear incurs costs when product is received that is not built to
specification. A Metal object in a garment is one example of product not built to
specification.
o It is Columbia Sportswear’s policy to issue chargeback’s to our suppliers in the event
that problems with the product are determined to be caused by the supplier’s
negligence.
o Product found to contain metal objects will be classified as 5th quality and un-saleable.
o The chargeback amount will be calculated to recover any or all of the following costs that
result from foreign metal objects negligently included in our product.
 Audit Costs including labor and materials.
 Discounted FOB as outlined in the B-grade policy.
 Difference in duty paid at full FOB and the discounted FOB.
 Any chargeback’s or settlements against Columbia Sportswear.
 Penalty fee of $100 per occurrence.
Broken Needle Log Trimming Scissors attached to Inspection
Table.

Trimming Scissors attached to Machine Trimming Scissors attached to Work Table

METAL DETECTION CALIBRATION MONTHLY REPORT FORM

Factory Name
Month

DAY
Conveyer belt
speed
( )

Correct sensitivity
setting ( 1.0mm )

1.0mm detection
trial

Regular Calibration
After 2 hrs

Regular Calibration
After 4 hrs

Regular Calibration
After 6 hrs

Regular Calibration
After 8 hrs

Calibration when
machine is first
turned on

Calibration when
machine is turned
off and back on

Calibration when a
new style is
scanned

Standard # CCS 125B

* Initial when calibration is checked
II) Down Product Compliance Overview

The objective is to ensure that all down products meet Columbia Sportswear Company and
each customer’s, Quality, Regulatory and Testing Specifications.

CCS 151 Test Lab Requirements

Each down production lot requires a passed test report from IDFL China or USA following the
standards and test methods of the Columbia Sportswear Down Requirements.

A) IDFL is the only acceptable lab for use; request Columbia Sportswear 15% Discount
o See IDFL Sample Submission Form; CSC submission form to be provided
o Note down production lot number and number of bales in lot
o Randomly select samples per the attached IDFL Down Sampling Plan and
method

B) Lot integrity must be maintained and accurately labeled for proper tracking including:
o Down Lot Number, Production Date & Content & Specie
o Should also include, bale weight, bale # (xx of xx), and other as necessary
o Down Lot is identified as one production batch, produced at the same time

C) Test results of bulk down should be slightly higher than required to account for drop in
down cluster during production of garments

D) Passed down test reports should be provided to the factory and CSC Office QC/MR
teams prior to shipment of down

E) Vendors should provide Down Suppliers with the CSC Down Requirements and
Standards and work closely to ensure finished goods compliance

F) Our Finished Goods Vendors are responsible for sourcing high quality, compliant down
from disclosed reputable suppliers

CCS 152 Down Suppliers

A) We encourage non-vertical vendors/factories to use the CSC preferred down sources:

o China: Allied Down and Nansei, managed by our Hong Kong Liaison Office
o Vietnam: Mekong Feather
o Taiwan: Kwong Lung
o All Mountain Hardwear Down Products: Down Décor
 Express written consent required from MHW Richmond for any substitutions
CCS 153 Factory Monitoring and Testing

A) Factory Monitoring:
o Vendors must have CSC Corporate Responsibility pre-approval to use any sub-
contractors
o Failure to comply to CSC sub-contracting requirements is subject to a minimum of
USD $1000 penalty and possibly being dropped as a vendor
o Each Down Factory must achieve an “Acceptable” rating in the CSC QA Factory
Quality Systems Evaluation (FQSE) within a one year period from the initial
evaluation date

B) Down Shipment Correlation Testing:

o Effective immediately, all vendors are responsible for down shipment correlation
testing of all down suppliers, including CSC preferred suppliers, to ensure down
quality and compliance to all standards
o Initially, 10 consecutive down production lots should be tested and results compared
to the down supplier’s test reports for the same down production lots
 Full package IDFL testing should be done on a minimum of 5 of these lots
 Remaining 5 lots can be tested for Content, Fill Power (and Specie if Goose)
o Trend and communicate supplier results and initiate continuous improvement efforts
 Excellent performance warrants a reduction in testing frequency
 Your CSC QA Manager will work with each factory to establish appropriate
reductions in down testing based upon correlation results.

C) Factory Testing:
o Factories must follow the Columbia Down Standards, CSSP 238 for testing down
samples and production garments
 Each lot must be accurately identified and tracked throughout factory
production
 Down lot #, production date, buy date and style number(s) needed on each
bale
 Down lot number to be included on each garment for traceability

o All testing reports must be kept for CSC review for a minimum of two years

o CSC QC will oversee factory random test sample selection and submission in many
cases

o The vendor is responsible for all expenses for down correlation and finished goods
testing

o The vendor is liable for the quality and full compliance of down and finished goods

o Note on the IDFL test form to use Columbia Sportswear Down Standards
CCS 154 Finished Goods Factory In-Process and Final Inspection Monitoring

CSC vendors are encouraged to implement and maintain a factory Quality process that will
ensure consistent component and end product quality, weight and fill.

A) Factory QC teams must complete random weight and fill checks throughout the day
o Each “down fill person” should be checked a minimum of four times per day
o Initially, new styles should begin with 100% weight checks to monitor variation
o Performance should be documented for training and improvement needs
o Poor performers or difficult styles should be monitored more often

B) Scales must be used continuously throughout the filling of components

o Scales must be calibrated and documented daily, per the manufacturer’s
guidelines

C) Lot integrity must be closely maintained throughout production, with a woven label id
sewn in finished goods to identify the down lot
o The woven id label schematics and requirements are being added to the BOM

D) The vendor must meet the CSC BOM component fill weight

E) As part of the Pre-Production Meeting, the factory should provide CSC QC with a report
to track down lot and bale integrity through all size and quantities; see attached example

F) Designated filling rooms should be used to fill component parts and to complete
inspections
o Must be kept clean, organized and have necessary spec sheets
o Must maintain down lot integrity and cleanliness
o Filling rooms should be physically separated; separate fill power, content and
species
o Humidity and temperature must be controlled to maintain consistency and
accuracy

G) A ratio of 1 in-process QC Inspector for every 20-25 sewing operators should be

maintained
o A smaller ratio is needed to monitor all down fillers, sub-assembly, seam seal,
embroidery, heat transfers, etc…

H) Inline QC should spot check component weights throughout the day as they enter
production

I) The factory is required to complete a passed Final Statistical Audit covering all
production lot quantities, before being released for the CSC Final Inspection.
CCS 155 Finished Goods Testing

A) One unit of each new style, will be randomly selected and submitted for testing by CSC
QC
o Multiple styles under the same content, specie and fill power can be combined

B) Testing will include content, fill power, net fill weight, specie and turbidity
o Other random testing will be at a reduced level

C) Sample should be selected from early in the production run and from one color/size

D) Initial failed tests require a CSC selection and acceptable testing of 2 more of the same
style/color

E) If failed, a sample of all other colors/styles within the same lot will be submitted and must
pass

F) Repeated failures may require significant increases in tested garments; excellent

performance may reduce testing frequency

G) The finished product vendor is responsible for all testing expense regardless of results

H) Finished goods test reports should be provided to the CSC Liaison Office QC/MR team

CCS 156 Fully Vertical Down Supplier Testing

Vertical Down Suppliers and Factories must meet the above Down Supplier and Factory
requirements with the following exception:

A) Initial down supplier correlation testing is required on 5 initial production lots

B) 3 of 5 for full package testing and 2 of 5 for Content, Fill Power (& Specie if goose)

C) CSC QA Mgr will work with the factory to determine frequency of random down testing
needs after correlation testing period
CCS 157 CSC QC Monitoring

CSC QC is responsible for monitoring down segregation, lot integrity and identification

A) Will complete In-process, Final Inspections, weight verifications and participate in Pre-
Production Meetings.

B) CSC Inspectors will oversee selection of down samples and finished goods for testing
o All new styles will be tested; will combine styles of same content, fill power and
species
o Test samples should be pulled from early production

C) CSC QC will monitor factory processes and correlate factory auditing/weighing results

D) Will do in-process inspections on finished goods of new styles and randomly afterwards
o Potential problem or difficult styles or factories will be monitored more often
o Audits will be primarily from the initial 5-10% of production following the Final
Inspection procedures

E) After shipment random testing will be completed as part of our DC and Customer
monitoring
o Results will be communicated to the vendors

If you have questions please contact your local LO QC Manager for assistance.
(III) Finished Garment Testing

The testing of the finished garment provides Columbia Sportswear with the first opportunity to
know how a garment is going to perform after different materials are sewn together and in some
instances being subjected to additional finishing procedures.

Although the materials are tested and approved before being approved for use in production the
combining of these materials in a garment may result in unexpected quality issues. The final
finishing of the garment (generally washing) may also add an additional variable that could
influence the quality that will be delivered to Columbia Sportswear customers.

Requirement

o Our expectation for each factory that produces a Columbia Sportswear ( MHW, Pacific
Trail, Sorel, etc. ) garment is that they launder a garment from first production.
o The care instructions in the garment should be strictly followed.
o The garment should be examined prior to laundering to determine if it was made
according to PDM instructions.
o The garment should also be examined for physical or color defects.
o The garment should be measured and the measurements recorded to determine if
shrinkage issues occur during the laundering process.
o Garments that include piecing of white with colors, contrast color embroidery, or screen
prints should be reviewed for any type of color transfer before and after laundering.
o The ability of a factory to fulfill these requirements will be an integral portion of the
Vender Certification program.

Procedure

o Two garments of each colorway should be pulled for wash testing. One will be tested
and the other will be used as a standard reference.
o Condition the garments to be tested a minimum of 4 hours until the garment has reached
a state of equilibrium with the atmosphere. Use ISO 139 Standard Temperature
Atmosphere with a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius plus or minus 2 degrees and a
relative humidity of 65% plus or minus 5 %, or use an air-conditioned office environment.
o On the test report record the temperature and humidity at the time of the initial and after
was evaluation.
o Examine the production garment to determine if it was made according to PDM
o Verify that the care instructions are correct in the garment (care label matches PDM)
o Inspect the garment for physical appearance and irregularities. Do the cut pieces
assemble together to present a first quality garment?
o Inspect the garments for color quality issues, crocking or color migration. Color
migration may originate from piecing light colors or white with darker colors, threads
used for construction, embroidery, or screen printing.
o Mark the garment at the POM with an indelible marker for reference before and after
washing for dimensional stability and skewness (torque). Standard POM are given in
CSC QA manual. Reversible and fully lined garments should be marked and measured
on both sides.
 o Measure and record the chest width and body length measurements for tops and the hip
and inseam (or skirt length) measurements for bottoms. It should be noted if
measurements are not within prescribed tolerances.
o Multiple garments may be washed and dried together as long as the color family is
complimentary, the garments are not color blocked or there are no “wash separately”
instructions included in the care instructions.

Laundering and Assessment

1. Launder the garment based on the recommended care instructions listed in the
individual garments referencing AATCC 135 ( CSSP 206 ).

Washing and Drying Conditions

Machine Cycle Washing Temperatures Drying Procedures

(1) Normal /Cotton Sturdy (ll) 27° ± 3° C (80° ± 5° F) (A) Tumble

(2) Delicate (lll) 41° ± 3° C (105° ± 5° F) i. Cotton Sturdy
(3) Permanent Press (lV) 49° ± 3° C (120° ± 5° F) ii. Delicate
(V) 60° ± 3  ° C(140° ± 5° F) iii. Permanent Press
(B) Line
(C) Drip
(D) Screen

Dryer Setting Combinations

Cotton Sturdy Delicate Permanent Press

High Low High

Exhaust 66° ± 5° C (150° ± 10° F) < 66° C (140° F) 66° ± 5° C (150° ± 10° F)
Temperature

Cool Down Time 10 Min 10 Min 10 Min

2. All test garments must go through 3 complete wash and dry cycles and then allowed to
condition for a minimum of 4 hours.
3. Color blocked styles should be visually examined for staining after both the 1st and 3rd
wash cycles.
4. Evaluate the color change and staining using the AATCC Grey scales for color change and
staining. A light box with a daylight D65 illuminant should be used when rating the color.
A comparison is made between the perceived visual difference in the washed and
unwashed samples and the perceived difference represented by the grey scale to assign a
grading value.
5. Re-inspect the garment for the physical appearance. Has the appearance deteriorated due
to, seam puckering, differential shrinkage between materials, pilling, etc.

A listing of key points to review are given in table form under Evaluation and Reporting.
Measure and record the length and width measurements of the garment. Does the dimensional
stability and skewness/ torque ( CSSP 207 ) fall within the parameters established by Columbia
Sportswear?
Testing Evaluation and Reporting
The following table lists are key points to be evaluated (if applicable) for each garment tested.

Category Item Assessment Criteria

Fabric Dimensional Stability Based on fiber content, see CSC 500A , Note
any differential shrinkage , Puckering between
linings, panels, and /or other components of
the garment
Skewness ( torque ) Less than 5% for tops, 3% for bottoms

Fabric Surface Pilling 3 or better using ASTM Photographic pilling

standards.
Snagging Any noticeable picks or snags are not
acceptable
Pile Note any bald spots, loss of coverage

Components & Bleeding/ Color change Rate after I and 3 laundering cycles using
Embellishments AATCC Grey Scales for Color Change and
Staining
Seams/stitches/eyelets Grinning, broken, puckered, overall
/buttonholes appearance
Screen prints/Heat Adherence, wash out, durability, overall
transfers appearance
Patches/Embroidery Puckering, fraying, bleeding, overall
appearance
Lining/fusing, lamination Puckering, delaminating, blistering, overall
appearance
Fasteners: Hook/Loop, Puckering, paint chipping( LEAD based ),
zippers, buttons, etc. rough or sharp edges, proper installation,.
Check the function of fasters/closures by
operating 5 times
Rib collars and Cuffs Overall appearance, distortion, pilling,
fibrillation, etc.
Tape/piping Puckering, overall appearance
Elastic Elasticity, twisting, curling
Drawcord Wash durability, overall appearance, proper
tacking
Fiberfill/Down Clumping, migration, resiliency
Torque / Skew

Side Seam

G1
H G

Figure 1; Procedure for finding Torque/Skew using the Side Seam method

Side seam Method

When the side seams are perpendicular to the hem this method is the simplest method to
determine torque/skew. The garment should be laid flat on a table. Mark on the garment with a
permanent marker points E ( underarm side seam join) , H ( side seam ), & on a parallel line
with H point G ( side seam ). Corresponding marks on a pant could be on the side seam at the
knee and on a parallel line at the side seams near the leg hem. Launder the garment according
to the care instructions in the garment. After laundering the garment lay the garment flat on a
table, align the shoulder of the top or if testing a bottom align the waist of the bottom and gently
smooth out any large wrinkles or creases and allow the garment to condition a minimum of 4
hours. For garments that torque/skew point G will move and becomes G1. Measure the
distance from G to G1 and E to G and calculate the Torque/Skew as follows:

Length of G(G1)
Torque/Skew = -------------------- X 100
Length of EG

Torque / Skew
 B

A A1
Y Z

Figure 2; Procedure for finding the Torque/Skew using AATCC method 179

AATCC Test Method 179

The garment should be laid flat on a table. Mark on the garment with a permanent marker a
reference line YZ across the width of the garment above the bottom hem. Mark point A midway
between Y and Z. At point A draw a line following the grainline from YZ to a point B. Launder
the garment according to the care instructions in the garment. . After laundering the garment lay
the garment flat on a table, align the shoulder of the top or if testing a bottom align the waist of
the bottom and gently smooth out any large wrinkles or creases and allow the garment to
condition a minimum of 4 hours. Draw a line from point B to line YZ following the grainline.
Mark this intersection as point A1. Measure the distance from point A to point A1 and from point
A to point B and calculate the Torque/Skew as follows:

Length of A(A1)
Torque/Skew = -------------------- X 100
Length of AB

Please refer to the example of Garment Wash Form at the end of this document.

References
AATCC 135 – Dimensional Change of Garments to Laundering
AATCC 179 Method 2 Invert T – Skew/torque
AATCC Color Evaluation Procedure1 - Assessment to Color Change
AATCC Color Evaluation Procedure 2 - Assessment to Color Staining
CSC QC Manual for Measuring / Textile Manual

Apparatus, Reagents, and Materials

AATCC Gray Scale for assessing Color Change ( available from AATCC,
http://www.aatcc.org Products/QC Products/Colorfastness Testing )
AATCC Gray Scale for Assessing Staining
ASTM Photographic Pilling Standards
Light Box containing Daylight (D65) light source
AATCC specified top loading washing machine and front load Tumble dryer
(current listing on web site, http://www.aatcc.org Technical/WashDry)
Water and Humidity Monitor
Water Hardness test kit or chemical for hardness testing for CaCO3
Tape Measure
IEC phosphate reference detergent or equivalent detergent ( Tide detergent )
Type III ballast: 5% cotton/50% polyester or 100% polyester
Continuous supply of water with a hardness of CaCO3 not to exceed 30ppm
(IV) CCS 1800 Seam Tape Commercialization

Seam Tape selection

o During product commercialization, the seam tape and fabric compatibility have been
tested and approved by the Materials Research and Product Development teams.
o Seam tape Vendor testing documentation has been saved in PDM under the fabric item
number. See attachments section for the testing report.
o Bill of Materials in most cases will call out the fabric approved seam tape. BOM will
default to use the seam tape that best matches the weight of the base cloth.

Seam Tape storage

o Store tape in well ventilated area humidity below 50% and indoor temperature below
30c, out of direct sunlight or fluorescent lighting, this prevents discoloring. Leave tape
sealed in original shipping cartons vertically.
o All seam tape should be depleted by the first received method to ensure proper
application and use.
o The storage life of tape is within one year.

Thread Requirements
Basic join seam thread requirements are Polyester Corespun with Polyester Wrap quality.

o Tex 24
o Ticket 120
o Japan Ticket No. 50

CCS 1801 Seam Seal Trial Condition

Trial Requirements
Before cutting begins, a seam seal trial test is required to assure the compatibility of seam
tape and fabric in a production environment. This test is to be completed against each lot
and color of fabric.

o Apply 3 lines of seam tape vertically and horizontally tape across a piece of 12” x 12”
test fabric to create a seam seal crossover quilt. Spacing of join seams is to be 3” apart
with a seam allowance that has been trimmed and topstitched to ¼” in width.
o Apply seam tape to the commercialized fabric as per the tape manufacturer’s
instructions. At the end of each seam maintain a 3” tail of tape at the end.
o Record the seam tape application parameters directly on the fabric along with machine
type or machine number: (as illustrated in fig. 1)
a) Air temperature
b) Nozzle temperature
c) Roller feed speed
d) Nozzle air pressure
e) Upper roller pressure
 Fig. 1 Cross over seam quilt with application labeling

o Test adhesion of tape to fabric and review to the following:

a) Allow tape and fabric to cool minimum of 5 minutes. (Some fabrications require
longer cooling times.)
b) Then peel the tape slowly from fabric at a 180 degree angle.
c) The coating should peel off the fabric.
d) If coating is not totally removed or bond has been weakened, the seam seal
machines should be adjusted.
e) Re-test until coating is completely bonded tape when peeling off.

o Generate test trials on all machines in the factory as each machine output can vary from
machine to machine.
o Generate a formal trial sample as illustrated in Fig. 2 below.
o Complete Suter testing for seam water-proofness and also generate wash tests for 3
cycles to fabric care instructions.
o If any of these tests do not pass, advise Corporate Quality Assurance and Materials
Research in order to resolve tape adhesion issue before starting production.
 Fig. 2 Formal sample trial illustration

Appearance Considerations
o Seam Tape should have the same elasticity as the fabric so that it will move with the
fabric when the tape is applied.
o Do not substitute or mix different kinds of tape in same seam or same construction on
one garment, as many tapes will not tape to each other.

CCS 1802 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Procedures

Seam seal machines are required to be calibrated for temperature and pressure at the
beginning of the work day, lunch or coffee breaks and at each shift change. Calibration
records are to be recorded on CCS 1811 and be made available for review by a Columbia
Sportswear representative at any time during the manufacturing process.

a) Tape machine is to be turned on to meet the tape manufactures suggested

application guidelines 15-20 minutes before start of seam seal trial or production.
b) Begin in seam seal either a trial sample or the first bundle of production.
c) Inspect application of the tape:
o Centered over the seam, overall hand feel of the tape
o Start and stops of the tape at curves and junctions
o Bonding of tape ends
o Appearance of seams and curve seams after taping
o Observe that there is no imprint of tape on the face side of fabric in order to
determine if roller pressure is properly set or the tape tension is OK
o That stitching thread is not burned under the tape, it means air nozzle was
too close to the lower roller
d) Face side of the fabric should not show as this will not seal.
e) Seams are trimmed evenly and there are no loose threads.
f) Verify water proofness by Suter or Air Permeability test following CCS 1803
requirements.

CCS 1803 Testing Requirements

Suter Test requirement for Garment and Glove seam water proofness:
o Test the seams at 3 PSI for 1 min.
o Refer to technical seam seal sketches to ensure that correct seams have
been sealed.

** Suter test method is not to be mistakenly used for fabric water proofness testing**

Air Permeability for Glove finger seam water proofness:

o Test the seams at 3 PSI for 1 min.
o Refer to technical seam seal sketches to ensure that correct seams have
been sealed.
o Do not mistake micro porous fabric for seam leakage. Carefully evaluate the
seam taping to make the determination that it is seam leakage and not fabric
leakage.
CCS 1804 In-Process Seam Seal Testing Procedures

Procedure

Test lot selection is generated from in-process garments. Generate sampling ratio of 1 out
of 10 units the same bundle. Conduct testing on garments against CCS 1803 seam seal
test requirements. Factory is required to record the test findings on CCS 1810 or similar
documentation. The following items are to be included in the evaluation:

o Test all cross over seam intersection points. Tabs that connect an outer/inner layer
of garment together as in neck tab, waist tab or z-welds.
o Review seam appearance on face side of garment for puckering, pulling, waving,
roping or bending
o Stability measurements if stretch fabric
o Seam seal test for water proofness of seams
o Seam taping appearance, peeling at cross or join seams, general peeling of tape.
o If no water leakage, switch to random points of testing on 5 units of every bundle.
o If there is a leak:
o Locate the machine that sealed the leak and stop the production.
o Re-adjust the machine and retest. Do not start production until it has
been corrected and that there is passing testing documentation.
o Repair all of the leaked units.

Factory Responsibility

a) Maintain record of the seam seal machine calibration and in-line process testing that
includes: factory name, machine model, machine number, tape used, fabric, P.O.
(Similar or as to CCS 1811)
b) Maintain record of Suter or Air Permeability water testing that includes: Factory, style
number, P.O. machine number, size and color of garment, points that were tested and
the results. (Similar or as to CCS 1810)
c) One unit out every 10 from each machine needs to be tested.
o If unit fails all 10 need to be rechecked and machine needs to be re-adjusted.
o This adjustment then needs to be reported on the machine calibration record.

CSC QC Responsibility

a) During in-process inspection, select random samples for seam seal appearance, Suter
or Air Permeability testing in addition to standard quality inspection. Number of units
selected to be the same quantity as final inspection AQL 2.5 sampling. Record Suter or
Air Permeability test results on CCS 1810.
b) Check and review factory calibration and in-line process testing records to confirm that
the CCS 1802 & CCS 1804 requirements have been met and the results are passing.
CCS 1805 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures

Procedure

Seam seal garments and gloves are required to be laundered to the labeled care
instructions 3 times for either machine or hand wash instructions. Select two garments from
production for wash test selection. Use one garment as a control sample for visual
appearance comparisons and the other is to be laundered.
Factory is required to record the wash test findings on CCS 1810. The following items are to
be included in the evaluation:

o Observe for any seam appearance abnormalities on face side of garment including
puckering, pulling, waving, roping.
o Monitor for any color stain or migration on tape from fabric coating.
o Watch for any coating that is peeled from fabric or air bubbles inside.
o Any abrasions on the edge of seam tape.
o Seam taping appearance, peeling at cross or join seams, general peeling or lifting
of tape.
o Generate seam seal test for water proofness of seams following CCS 1803 record
findings on CCS 1810.
 Finished Garment Testing

CCS 1806 Seam Seal Troubleshooting

Causes for Seam Leaking

Described below are area’s that would be reviewed and eliminated as it will cause a garment
to not be waterproof.

a) Seam Tape pleats, bubbles or dirt under the tape.

b) Thread ends. All threads are to be neatly trimmed close to stitches.
c) All seams are to be trimmed or sewn to 1/4”, when the seam is finished with topstitching
and 1/8” if there is no join seam topstitching.
d) All tape is to be applied centered in the width of the seam allowance. If tape is applied to
close to the seam edge it will cause failure.
e) All small or short length seams are to be taped first and the long length seams last.
f) All tape is to be trimmed at the end of the seal. If unsealed tape is taped over itself, this
will cause failure.
g) Tape should not extend more than 1” passed the end of a seam, Velcro, label,
embroidery or other taped areas. This requirement is to improve the outer appearance
as well as control seam tape usage.
h) All seam tape should run to the end of the fabric or join seam. No starts and stops in the
middle of a join seam as this will lead to failure.
i) Topically applied labels are required to be sealed with less roller pressure to prevent
failure of label.
j) If an area of tape has not sealed properly, it is acceptable for a second application of
heat and pressure with a seam seal machine without a second layer of tape.
k) All seams are required to be taped before the front zipper is set. If this is not completed
in this sequence, this will create a small space next to the zipper that the tape machine
cannot seal that will result in a failure.
l) Face side of the fabric in seam allowance should not be showing as this will not seal
properly and cause failure.
m) If tape machine is running to hot, the ends of the tape when stopping will fail and cause
a beading appearance and be hard in texture. Adjust the machine properly to eliminate
hot ends and trim the unsightly beads from the tape.
n) Incorrect air nozzle positioning can result in improper sealing, scorching or burn-through
of tape.
o) Confirm that the Air nozzle and roller are the proper width for tape being applied.
p) Both nozzle and rollers should be approximately 1/8” (3 mm) wider than the tape to
ensure effective sealing. The nozzle should also be centered to cover the width of the
tape.
q) Partial seam seal tape starts and stops should be finished with cross over press to
ensure proper adhesion.

Corrective Actions for Seam Leaking
Described below are area’s that would be reviewed and eliminated as it will cause a garment
to not be waterproof.
Problem
A. Tape does not Bond
B. Tape Sticks to Roller
C. Tape Bond is Weak
D. Edge or center of tape not
sealing
E. Tape splits at stitch or seam
F. Tape burns through fabric or
chars
G. Seams leak at crossover
points
H. Tape wraps around rollers
I. Excessive Puckering
Possible Cause
Roll Mounted Backwards
Wrong Tape
Wrong Sealing Conditions
Oil or soil on tape or coating
Roll Mounted Backwards
Nozzle temperature too high
Speed too fast; heat is too low
Wrong Tape
Nozzle doesn’t move
synchronously with upper roller
Insufficient roller pressure
Rollers are not making proper
contact
Air Nozzle not adjusted properly
Nozzle obstructed by dust or
other dirt
Heat too high
Excessive roller pressure
Upper or Lower roller deformed
and not round
Heat too high; speed too low
Air Nozzle not adjusted properly
Wrong Tape
Speed too fast; heat is too low
Wrong Tape
Tape cut too long
Roll Mounted Backwards
Lack of tension
Wrong Tape
Finished Garment Testing
Corrective Action
Reverse roll adhesive towards
core
Contact Tape Supplier
Follow Tape suppliers
instructions
Confirm that area is free from
contaminants
Reverse roll adhesive towards
core
Reduce temperature
Lower speed; raise temperature
increase air pressure.
Contact Tape Supplier
Adjust machine
Adjust Machine
Adjust roller pressure. Confirm
that roller is smooth and without
ridge.
Adjust air nozzle alignment to be
centered within tape.
Confirm that area is free from
contaminants
Lower temperature, reduce air
pressure
Reduce pressure
Replace roller(s)
Lower temperature, increase
roller speed
Adjust air nozzle alignment to be
centered within tape and not too
close to lower roller.
Contact Tape Supplier
Lower speed; raise temperature
increase air pressure.
Contact Tape Supplier
Tape tails should not extend
beyond nip roller
Reverse roll adhesive towards
core
Use slight tension on fabric as
feed through rollers
Contact Tape Supplier
 Finished Garment Testing

CCS 1807 Seam Seal Tape Storage Examples

Seam Tape Winding/Discoloration

The below photo demonstrate examples of poor appearance of seam tape storage or poor
seam tape winding.

Seam Tape Conglutination

Conglutination of seam tape is the result of the tape being glued or stuck together or adhering to
itself. The below photos demonstrates how to test for conglutination of seam tape.

Step 1: Put tape through column (pen or round smooth surface

object), pinch the head of tape with the other hand. Pull the tape
slightly and quickly then release suddenly.

Step 2: If after release of tape the appearance is

as the below picture when tape roll stops rotating,
do not use for production.
CCS 1808 Seam Seal Exterior Appearance Examples

The below photos demonstrate examples of poor appearance of seam tape application.

Roping seam appearance begins with

improper topstitching and is permanently
set when seam seal tape is applied.
Roping can also lead to puckering at edge
of seam tape.

Puckering appearance is caused from too

much hand pulling from seam seal operator while
cloth is under the feed rollers of seam seal
machine. Secondary cause can be if too much
pressure and heat are used for tape application

Waving appearance is caused from too

much hand pulling from seam seal operator
while cloth is under the feed rollers of seam
seal machine. Secondary cause can be if
too much pressure and heat are used for
tape application
 Seam Seal Requirements

CCS 1809 Seam Seal Interior Appearance Examples

The below photos demonstrate interior seam tape application issues that will result in leakage
and cause product failure.

Seam pullout and uneven seam

trimming where the face fabric is
showing. This will cause seam
leakage.

Seam allowance should lay flat and

not be twisted within the seam to be
taped. This intersection is especially
thick due to all the seams coming
together along with the twisted seam.

1. Loose topstitch thread caught

into the seam tape.

2. Uneven seam trimming.

 Seam Seal Requirements

CCS 1810 Seam Seal Test Report Form

Date:       PO #:       Sample Type: S/S P/P I/L F/I

No Leak: Big Drop That Grows: Tape Blow Thru:
Style #:       Vendor:
      Factory:        
Machine #:      
Tiny Water Drop: Big Drop That Does Not Grow: Fabric Leak:
Testing Requirements per CCS O1803:  
Suter Test- 3 PSI for 1 Minute Multiple Fabric Leak:
Air Permeability Test- 3 PSI for 1 Minute 
TEST POINT COLOR/SIZE RESULT COMMENTS
     
1                  
     
     
2                  
     
     
3                  
     
     
4                  
     
     
5                  
     
     
6                  
     
     
7                  
     
     
8                  
     
     
9                  
     
     
10                  
     
     
11                  
     
     
12                  
     
     
13                  
     
     
14                  
     
     
15                  
     
Failure Key-
 Sample Type: S/S P/P I/L
Style #:       Fabric PDM #:       PO #:      
F/I

Color:       Machine #:       Vendor:       Factory:      

Date: Month/Day

Roller Speed

Pressure

Temperature (Cº)

Tape (Type)

AM Calibration

Lunch Calibration

Break Calibration

Shift Change
Calibration
CCS 1811 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Report Form
KEY: (P or F/Operators Initials)
P= Pass
F= Fail
 Appendixes

(V) Heat Transfer/Screen Print Quality Requirements

The application of Heat Transfer and Screenprinting onto apparel and accessories is a single
function that can have direct correlation to brand image. Excellent Heat Transfer and
Screenprinting application reflects well against the brands quality, while a poorly applied Heat
Transfer or Screenprint can identify the brand with an overall poor quality and poor
workmanship opinion by the end customer.
In the following pages, Columbia has outlined methods for correct application, machine
calibration and testing requirements that will yield an excellent and durable application to the
finished product that will enhance Columbia Sportswear products.

CCS 1850 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Commercialization

Heat Transfer/Screenprint Selection

o During product commercialization, the Heat Transfer/Screenprint artwork has been

generated and applied to commercialized fabric to confirm fabric application
compatibility.
o All Heat Transfer/Screenprint has been tested and approved by the Trims Research and
Product Development teams for both art quality and adherence to the commercialized
fabric.
o Heat Transfer/Screenprint Vendor testing documentation is saved in PDM under the
Heat Transfer/Screenprint PDM item number. See attachments section for the testing
report.

Heat Transfer Receiving Inspection

o Inspections are to be completed on all incoming all heat transfer labels by factory.
o .65 AQL Normal or Tightened Heat Transfer sampling is to be used to accept individual
quantities.
o If a shipment be is less than 500 pieces, inspect 100%.

Inspections requirements include:

o Shade, color, size, design, layout, wording where appropriate, PDM number, graphics
o Compared to the approved sample
o General quality and consistency
o Quantity received against packing list and ordered quantity
o All non conforming goods to be segregated, clearly marked and stored separately
o Failed lots are to be inspected 100% and re-audited

Heat Transfer Storage

o Store Heat Transfers in well ventilated area humidity below 70% and indoor temperature
below 30c, out of direct or fluorescent light, this prevents discoloring. Leave Heat
Transfers sealed in original shipping cartons.
o All Heat Transfer inventory should be depleted by the first received method to ensure
proper application and use.
o The storage life of a Heat Transfer is normally one year.
 Appendixes

o Do not remove oil paper on label backing before using. Oilpaper should be put between
labels in preventing sticky issues.
o It’s better to stack the labels by rubber band before distributing to different production
lines. Loosed packing will cause sticky issue.

CCS 1851 Application Equipment Requirements

Automatic pneumatic machine should be used to apply heat transfers piece by piece as
Columbia’s requirement. Heat Transfer Presses should have the following critical conditions:

1. Automatic controls to Adjustable time, temperature and pressure operations.

2. Digital timer can be adjustable the time countdown on readout, automatically signal
as timing passed or reset as handle raising.
3. Time and temperature must be controlled by digital microprocessor accurately.
4. Time range should be displayed min.0-180 seconds.
5. Working temperature range should be min.70-230ºC (160-455ºF).
6. Pressure must be controlled in a range of at least 0-7 bar ( 0-100 PSI / 0-7 kg/cm²).
7. Fingertip controlled operation and programmable print settings.
8. Platen size should be a minimum of 38cm x 38cm (15” x 15”).
9. Head plate should be made of metal and Teflon coated to prevent soil age and
damaged garments.
10. Base plate should be made of silicone rubber. Fleece can be added to the platform
to add sufficient resilience to ensure close alignment with the upper heat press
platen. A fleece flat form is recommended to use for the application of three-
dimensional heat transfers.

Machine Height
The correct method for Heat transfer press working area is for the operator to have an
unobstructed view of the application area, spacious enough to find out defect issues with
ease.
 Appendixes

CCS 1852 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Development Testing

Development Testing Requirements

All Heat Transfer/Screenprints are to be tested and approved by the Trims Research and
Product Development teams for both art quality and adherence to the commercialized fabric.
Three tests requirements will be conducted to the Heat Transfer/Screenprint in order to
evaluate its acceptability to home laundering, cold cracking, and abrasion. These tests
represent the development control sample that is to be replicated in production.

1. The development center/production factory will print a minimum of 5 samples. The

fabric samples must be printed on production quality fabric and be cut a minimum size
of 8 inches long and by 8 inches wide for testing
2. Wash 2 samples 5 times (following the fabric care instructions listed in PDM) 3 of the
samples will remain unwashed.
3. If the samples experience washing failure, the Development Center is to work back with
the screen printer to modify ink and binders to achieve an acceptable product that can
be repeated in production. (Production factory works with their screen printer to resolve
problems and with the development center when necessary).
4. If no failure is identified then proceed with the cold crack ( ASTM D1912 Modified ) and
Martindale abrasion testing ( ASTM D4966 )
5. Two samples for the cold crack test are saturated with water, one unwashed sample
and one washed sample. The cold crack test is performed at minus 15 degrees
Fahrenheit (minus 26 degrees Celsius). The samples are held at this temperature for a
minimum of 60 minutes. At the end of 60 minutes and while in the cold chamber the
samples are folder and creased with a 10 pound wheel. Any noticeable cracking is
unacceptable.
6. If the samples pass the cold crack test then proceed with the Martindale abrasion
testing.
7. The abrasion test is performed on one unwashed sample and one washed sample
using the Martindale abrasion tester. The samples should be run for 1000 cycles and
evaluated against the minimum performance standard which is no failure (no significant
change in appearance or function).
8. Report final results of testing.

Appearance Considerations
o Heat Transfer/Screenprints are to have the same elasticity as the fabric so that it will
move with the fabric when the Heat Transfer/Screenprint is applied.
o There should be no cracking, peeling or bubbling appearance on the Heat
Transfer/Screenprint.

CCS 1854 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Procedures

Heat Transfer should be applied by automatic pneumatic machines. Manual presser, or

conveyer machines or roller presser are not recommended.
Heat Transfer machines are required to be calibrated for temperature, pressure and dwell
time at any point over a 30 minute stop or continuous operating more than two hours.
Calibration records are to be recorded on CCS 1862 and be made available for review by a
Columbia Sportswear representative at any time during the manufacturing process.
 Appendixes

g) Heat Transfer machine is to be turned on to meet the Heat Transfer manufactures

suggested application guidelines 15-20 minutes before start of Heat Transfer trial or
production
h) Upper and base heating plates must be checked for damage, flatness, and general
soil contamination. All adhesive residue, all cover clothes should be removed and
cleaned off from both plates after the last usage. Pay attention to the plates made of
rubber as it is easy to get deformed, wavy after long times heated
i) Pressure check at four plate corners:
o 4 pieces of paper in size A5 should be put on four corners of the base plate.
o Operating the pressing machine to press these 4 pieces of paper.
o Use hand to pull these pieces of papers out, piece by piece with the same
strength. If we are feeling uneven pressure then plate adjustment or replacing are
required.
j) Temperature check: Heating should be evenly distributed across the heating plate.
The temperature meter (or thermocouple) will have to be used for checking 5 points
of each plate and results must be recorded on CCS 1862 in order to reference output
temperature (showed by machine temperature meter).
o Operating the machine with setting 160 C degree, Pressure at 3 bar (45 PSI)
and Dwell time at 30 seconds.
o Run a press testing with a thin cloth between two plates, after 3 consecutive
times. Use the thermocouple to measure the heat of 4 corners and center
point of each plate. The results are written down for records, and noted that
+/- 2C degree different are acceptable.
k) Dwell time check: Stopwatch is used for checking Machine dwell-time. Running the
pressing test with the same time press the stopwatch.

CCS 1855 Heat Transfer Pre-Production Testing Requirements

Requirements
Before production begins, Heat Transfer trial test is required to assure the compatibility of Heat
Transfer and fabric in a production environment. This test is to be completed against each lot
and color of fabric.
o Apply Heat Transfer to the commercialized fabric as per Heat Transfer manufacturer’s
instructions.
o Record Heat Transfer application parameters directly on the fabric along with machine
type or machine number
f) Heating Plate Pressure
g) Heating plate temperature
h) Dwell time

Appearance Check Process

o Allow Heat Transfer a minimum of 15 minutes time to cool down completely. (Some
fabrications require longer cooling times.)
o Check for retention by using hand stretch method: Grip the printed sample around 12 cm
from the transfer and stretch the transfer both horizontal and vertical direction around
10% to 30% each.
o Observe for Heat Transfer Cracking, appearance, all Heat Transfer edges-corners solid
bonded should be checked.
 Appendixes

Mock-up Washing Test

o Printed mock up in all color ways available must be passed the washing test (5-times,
following care label washing condition) and enclosed with PP samples to be submitted to
Columbia Sportswear Representative Office QA Department.
o Proceed to generate tests on the balance of color ways as they arrive for bulk.
o All application parameters are required to be recorded in PP samples inspection report
for reference in production.
o All results of washed samples are to yield the same results as the development testing
control samples.
CCS 1856 In-Process Heat Transfer/Screenprint Audit Procedures

Procedure

Heat transfer pressing operator should inspect 100% output printed panels or at least 10
consecutive pieces of first output per each bundle, or right after any presser calibration
(mentioned in CCS 1854 above) with using hand-stretching method.

Bundle quantity 0- 24 panels: Inspect 5 pieces, no defect accepted.

Bundle over 24+ panels: Follow AQL 1.5 for sampling, but no defect accepted.

If inspection yields any defect, the heating machine must be adjusted and the bundle with such
defect must be 100% self re-inspected by operator.
Heat transfer panels inspection must be focused on the following points (which are not
acceptable):
a) Overall aesthetics of transfer: Artwork, size, color, shade, design, layout, wording,
graphic, PDM number where applicable…
b) Peeling: Examine all corners, edges of transfer to see any symptom of peeling off.
c) Color migration/bleeding: Check to see any visibility of fabric color migrated through
transfer.
d) Cracking: Notice any cracking on transfer.
e) Visible bonding border: Notice any obvious bonding border around transfer.
f) Plate mark: Check to see any noticeable plate marked around transfer.
g) Stretching (for transfer heated on stretchable fabric): Hold the heated panel at least
10cm from nearest transfer edge both sides, stretch it up to 30% of its original dimension
3 times, release and check if any de-bonding and/or cracking happens. Repeat this for
other direction.

Notes:
-Relax heated panels at least 15 minutes prior to inspection.
-The use of combining hand-stretching and washing test are approved for elongation
(use of fingernails to scratch on transfer to check for peeling is not correct method).
 Appendixes

Factory Responsibility

d) Maintain record of the heat transfer machine daily calibration and in-line process
inspection/testing that includes: factory name, machine model, machine number, heat
transfer PDM#, fabric PDM#, style#, PO#…
e) One unit per style per color needs to be wash tested with record of completed testing.

CSC QC Responsibility

Check and review factory calibration and in-line process inspection/testing records to confirm
that requirements have been met and the results are passing.

CCS 1857 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures

Procedure

Heat Transfer/Screen printed garments and gloves are required to be laundered to the
labeled care instructions 3 times for either machine or hand wash instructions. Select two
garments from production for wash test selection. Use one garment as a control sample for
visual appearance comparisons and the other two are to be laundered.
Factory is required to record the wash test findings. The following items are to be included in
the evaluation:

a) Overall aesthetics of transfer: Artwork, size, color, shade, design, layout, wording,
graphic, PDM number where applicable…
b) Peeling: Examine all corners, edges of transfer to see any symptom of peeling off.
c) Color migration/bleeding: Check to see any visibility of fabric color migrated
through transfer.
d) Cracking: Notice any cracking on transfer.
e) Visible bonding border: Notice any obvious bonding border around transfer.
f) Plate mark: Check to see any noticeable plate marked around transfer.
g) Stretching (for transfer heated on stretchable fabric): Hold the heated panel at least
10cm from nearest transfer edge both sides, stretch it up to 30% of its original
dimension 3 times, release and check if any de-bonding and/or cracking happens.
Repeat this for other direction.

CCS 1858 Heat Transfer/Screen Print Troubleshooting

Causes for poor adhesion

Described below are area’s that would be reviewed by an inspector and would be causes for
Heat Transfer’s poor adhesion.

a) Application parameters not being followed for temperature, pressure and dwell time.

b) Poor maintaince and calibration of machinery.

c) Incorrect machinery used for application.

 Appendixes

d) Carrier paper removed too soon.

e) Uneven heat plate temperature.

f) Dirt under the heat plate.

g) Old heat transfers

h) Improperly stored, or missing the carrier paper

i) Never tested with passing results

CCS 1860 Heat Transfer Exterior Appearance Examples

Most poor appearance issues are caused from incorrect temperature, pressure or dwell time
application parameters being followed to manufactures suggestions. The below photos
demonstrate examples of poor appearance of Heat Transfer application.
 Appendixes

Peeling appearance is a failure of the

heat transfer to bond to the face fabric and
we see complete failure.

Edge Lift or Halo appearance is the glued

edges of the heat transfer have not affixed itself
to the face fabric.

Cracking or Bubbling appearance is

demonstrated with a single part of the artwork failing.
 Appendixes

CCS 1861 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Wash Test Report Form

Date:       PO #:       Sample Type: S/S P/P I/L F/I

Style #:       Vendor:       Factory:       Machine #:      

HEAT
TRANSFER/SCREENPRINT COLOR/SIZE RESULT COMMENTS
PDM#
     
1                  
     
     
2                  
     
     
3                  
     
     
4                  
     
     
5                  
     
     
6                  
     
     
7                  
     
     
8                  
     
     
9                  
     
     
10                  
     
     
11                  
     
     
12                  
     
     
13                  
     
     
14                  
     
     
15                  
     
 Sample Type: S/S P/P I/L
Style #:       Fabric PDM #:       PO #:      
F/I

Color:       Machine #:       Vendor:       Factory:      

Date: Month/Day

Dwell Time

Pressure

Temperature (Cº)

Heat
Transfer/Screenprint
PDM #

AM Calibration

Lunch Calibration

Break Calibration

Shift Change
Calibration
CCS 1862 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Report Form
KEY: (P or F/Operators Initials)
P= Pass
F= Fail
(VI) Puckering Standards

Double Needle Puckering Standards

Standard #: CCS 2006 Last issue date: 2/14/02

DN1 DN2 DN3 DN4 DN5

The above codes can be used to describe the level of puckering you see. DN3, DN4 and
DN5 should be considered unacceptable before and/or after pressing.
Single Needle Puckering Standards
Standard # CCS 2006 Revision Date: 2/14/02

DN1 DN2 DN3 DN4 DN5

The above codes can be used to describe the level of puckering you see. DN3 should be
considered marginal at best, DN4 and DN5 should be considered unacceptable before
and/or after pressing.
(VII) A & E Technical Bulletin

Sewing Machine Maintenance

Sewing Maintenance Checklists

An area that Columbia Sportswear is very concerned with is the condition of the sewing floor
and of the sewing machine basic setups and maintenance. These directly impact:

o Seam Quality, Appearance and Durability

o Operator Productivity & Earnings
o Sewing Operator Morale
o Manufacturing Through-Put Time
o Products Produced May Require Greater Inspection
o Higher Costs and Lower Profits
o Consumer Dissatisfaction
o Loss of Brand-Name Credibility

It is the joint responsibility of Production, Maintenance and Quality to monitor and assist in the
proper setup, care and maintenance of sewing equipment and thread. Using the checklists
provided in the appendix will help you organize and evaluate sewing processes in order to
optimize sewing and seam performance. The topics include preventative maintenance, three
basic systems used to form and set a stitch, and stitch and seam quality.

Preventative Maintenance

o Check to see if the machines are being kept clean:

 Machines should be blown off every day to remove lint and trash*.
 On lockstitch machines, the hook should be blown off regularly during the day to
prevent lint or dirt from building up in the oil ports in the race of the hook.
o Check to see that the machines are being lubricated regularly:
 Oil levels should be checked daily and additional oil added if necessary.
 Randomly check the oil levels in the machines.
 A high quality white machine oil should be used that will not stain.
 Check availability of proper machine oil in the factory.
 Check to make sure the oil is not contaminated.
o Check to see that oil reservoir pump filters are cleaned regularly:
 If compressed air is used, make sure the air system is regulated properly and has
humidity dryers, filters, and lubricator in the air lines.
 Check for rusted areas due to excessive moisture in production area.
o Check machines for wear on critical moving parts:
 Check for shake in needle bar due to worn needle bar bushings.
 Check for excessive movement in stitch forming devices, etc.
 Check condition of critical screws:
 Check for missing screws.
 Check for defective screws that are difficult to tighten properly.
 Check condition of mechanic’s tools to see that they are being maintained properly.
*With buttonhole or other specialized equipment, cleaning of the machine should not be done
with compressed air but with a soft bristle brush.
Stitch Forming System

o The sewing machine needle should be inspected regularly during the day and replaced if
there are signs of wear or damage:
 The correct type & size of needle should be used.
 Wovens - sharp pointed needles: On light weight fabrics where structural jamming
can cause seam puckering, the finest needle size should be used with a long-point.
 Knits - ball pointed needles of the finest size should be used.
 The correct needle size - thread size relationship should be maintained.

o Lockstitch machines:
 Check the hook for sharp surfaces and burrs on the hook point.
 Check for other sharp surfaces on other thread contact surfaces.
 Check for excessive wear in the raceway that will allow excessive movement in the
basket.

o Chainstitch & Overedge machines:

 Check the looper points for sharp surfaces or burrs*.
 Observe excessive wear of looper.
 Check to make sure loopers are shaped properly according to original factory
condition.

Observe method of removal of entangled thread on loopers. Sharp objects that can nick or
burr the loopers should NOT be used.

Thread Handling System

o Check to make sure thread is being stored properly:

 Cones should be stored properly to insure that they are not contaminated with dirt,
excessive lint, etc.
 Check to make sure wind on part cones does not affect take-off the cone.

o Check to make sure the correct thread type and sizes are being used:
 Check the order book and inventory to make sure the proper thread is used.
 Thread stands are in proper condition and the top eyelets are oriented properly.
 Optimum distance between the top of cone & top eyelet (should be no more than two
cones higher than cone size being used).
 Thread stand eyelets are smooth and not grooved or damaged.
 Cone is held in a vertical stationary position.
 Machine eyelets and guides are smooth and not grooved, rusted or damaged.
 Machine thread tensions are as light as possible but still give balanced stitches:
 Observe how much of the tension post is exposed beyond the tension nut. Generally,
the more of the tension post that is visible, the more tension that is being applied to
the sewing thread
 Observe the condition of the tension discs, take-up spring, etc.
  Check the bottom tension to make sure it is as loose as possible & still give a
balance stitch.

Lockstitch machines:

o Bobbin winder in good condition & making correct wind on bobbins.

o Condition of bobbins & bobbin tension:
 Look for nicks on edge of bobbins indicating incorrect needle height.
 Look for damaged or bent bobbins.
o Check bobbin tension (minimum tension recommended) of:
 Bobbin case.
 Bobbin case laying on a flat surface
 After bobbin thread has been pulled up through the hole in the needle plate.

Needle thread:

o Machines are properly threaded.

o Needle thread tension is as light as possible but still give a balanced stitch.
o Take-up spring in proper positioned and working properly
o Proper thread size / needle size relationship is being maintained.
o Proper needle thread size / bobbin thread size is being used.

Feed Handling System:

o Needle plates are in good condition; Make sure the needle hole size/needle size
relationship is correct:
o Generally, the needle hole size should be twice the diameter of the needle being used.
o Check to make sure the needle hole in the needle plate is not damaged.
o Look for needle damage and sharp edges.
o Check to see if the needle plate is flat and not bent down at the needle hole.

Chainstitch needle plates:

o Observe to see that the length of the needle hole slot is greater than the stitch length.
o Observe to see that the underside of the needle hole is shaped correctly to aid in
forming a proper triangle.

Feed dogs are in good condition and correct for the application:

o Check to make sure the feed are not broken or damaged.

o Observe the teeth per inch on the feed dog. Generally, the following should be found:
o Light weight sewing - 20 - 24 tpi;
o Medium weight sewing - 14 - 18 tpi;
o Heavy weight sewing - 10 - 12 tpi.

Overedge needle plates:

o Check for needle damage or burrs on the needle hole and stitch tongue.
 o Make sure the trimming knives are adjusted to the width of the needle plate stitch
tongue.

Presser foot:

o Correct foot is being used for the application.

o Make sure the needle hole size/needle size relation is correct & the needle has sufficient
clearance.
o Check to make sure the needle hole is not damaged.
o Check for proper pressure both in front and in back of the needle.
o With the foot flat on the needle plate, you should not be able to insert a thin piece of
paper between the foot and the needle plate from the front or backside of the needle.
o Check presser foot for excessive wear causing side-to-side play.
o The pressure on the presser foot should be as light as possible and give a uniform stitch
length. Check to make sure the correct stitch length is being used.

Other Thread Handling Systems

Material Trimming Systems:

o Check to see that the cutting knives are sharp and are trimming properly. This can be
checked by placing a single end of thread between the knives and observing if the
thread is cut by the knives.

Thread Trimming System:

o Check to see that the chain cutters are cutting the chain to the proper length that
minimizes trim & inspect

Folders & Guides:

o Observe to see that the correct capacity folder is being used for the fabric being sewn.
o Check for additional folds caused by excessive folder capacity.
o Check for excessive stretching of the fabric causing additional seam puckering.

Stitch & Seam Quality

Lockstitch seams:

o Check to see that the stitch looks the same on both the top and bottom of the seam.
o If back tacking is required, make sure the correct number of stitches are used in the
back tack.
o Make sure the proper SPI are being used.
o Make sure the correct seam allowance (margin) is being maintained.

Chainstitch seams:
 o Make sure the stitch is balanced properly.
o Check for excessive seam grinning.
o Looper thread should roll over.

Overedge seams:

o Check for proper stitch balance.

o Check for excessive seam grinning.
o Check for proper seam extensibility or stitch elongation.
o Check to make sure that the purl is on the edge of the seam.
o Check to make sure the knives are trimming the fabric cleanly.
o Check to make sure the correct seam allowance (margin) is being maintained.
o Observe operator handling for excessive trim.
o If latch-tacking, make sure the chain is sewn into the seam properly.

Skipped Stitches:

o Check areas where frequent skips have been observed.

o Observe where one seam crosses another seam.
o Check to see if the skip occurs on thickness or after thickness.
(VIII) Factory Apparel Sizing Audits

Introduction

Columbia Sportswear serves a large number of retailers, distributors and ultimately our end
customer, all of whom demand high quality apparel. This expectation also applies to the size, fit
and comfort of our garments. Consistent quality, sizing and fit is required to meet customer
satisfaction and is a direct reflection on our Brand integrity.

To further support improved sizing and fit of our garments, we have revised our Quality Sizing
procedures for our quality inspection staff. This procedure also applies to our minimum
expectations for factory internal Final Audit sizing, which should compliment strong in-process
sizing procedures.

The sizing audit should be conducted along with the Final Audit for quality and packaging and
can also be conducted independently as a separate sizing audit on prepackaged goods. Results
are to be compared to internal in-process sizing results and used for continuous improvement
efforts.

Purpose

To insure that merchandise shipped to Columbia Sportswear and its retailers meets all sizing
related specifications and tolerances.

Factory Sizing Audits

Columbia Sportswear strongly recommends our factories use the following measurement
procedure as part of their Final Audit process. It is an easy, but very effective sampling and will
prevent sizing problems in our factory or DC audits and help meet customer expectations.

 Measure three (3) garments per size and per color.

o One garment per size for all measurements; other garments for critical
measurements
o If no out of tolerance measurements are found, the audit is complete and
passes.

 For any color and size that has ONE garment or less out of tolerance (OOT)
measurement within the same point of measure (POM), pull 3 more garments of the
same size and color.
o Only measure the same point of measure (POM) that was out of tolerance in
the first 3 garments.
 o If another OOT point of measurement is found in the additional 3 garment
sampling, that size, color and POM fails
 Failures require the factory to complete a 100% inspection of the failed
size, color and POM, then present for re-audit by CSQA

 Any size and color in the initial 3 garment sampling that has MORE than ONE OOT in
the same POM, would automatically fail that size, color and POM. Pulling an additional
3 garments is not necessary. That color and size should be 100% inspected and
reaudited by CSQA.

o Even if a POM does not have 2 OOT, a sizing audit will fail if 15% or more of the
sampled garments are OOT. A garment with one or more OOT measurements
is counted as 1 OOT garment. Ie… 4 sizes x 3 colors x 3 = 36 garments
measured; 6 or more total OOT would fail the entire audit

 If in doubt, in lieu of an automatic 100 % inspection, the factory has the choice to use
the Columbia Sportswear Single Sampling Plan at a 1.5 AQL, included in the appendix,
to determine if the failed size and color warrants a full 100% inspection. The selection
of the sample should be random and the lot size is the quantity within the color and size
that failed.

Factory Sizing Audits

o For lot sizes of 1200 and below, and only one size range and one color, measure 6
garments and allow one out of tolerance POM.

o For lot sizes above 1200 and only one size range and color, measure 10 garments and
allow 2 out of tolerance POM.

Additional Points

o Strong process controls and monitoring is necessary throughout Development,

Spreading, Cutting, Sewing and Testing to ensure consistently accurate
measurements.
o A formal Vestibule Training program is necessary to provide effective operator
development.
o Knit products should be laid flat and patted into place, not stretched during the audit.
o The CSQA How To Measure manual should be used with the BOM to determine proper
measurements.
o Paper tape measures should be calibrated frequently to ensure accuracy.
o Final Audit sizing should be completed just prior to the quality audit to avoid distorting
garments.
o Pressing knits to fit specs and tolerance is a temporary fix and doesn’t ensure proper
fit. Care must be taken by the factory to meet and maintain accurate sizing prior to and
after pressing.
o Sets and Interchange programs are to be measured as a single selling unit. An OOT in
each component would count as one. An OOT in a critical measurement in one
component still requires another 3 pieces to be measured.
CSQA Sizing Procedure

Columbia Sportswear Quality Inspectors will follow the same procedure as outlined above in
most instances.
However, we may periodically choose to measure three garments per size, and combine colors,
effectively reducing the sample size. Many factors will determine our inspectors approach which
will be determined by the local CSQA Manager. Some factors may include:
o Qualified Factory Inspector Program has been implemented
o Factory Quality Systems Evaluation has been completed and is Acceptable
o Inspection quality, packaging and sizing results meet goals of at least:
 2.5 % Defective and a 5.0 % Fail Rate with a minimum of 15 CSQA audits

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact your local CSQA Manager or Regional
Manager.

Use along with:

I. Single Sampling Plan – Normal Level – 1.5 & 2.5 AQL

II. CSQA Sizing Sheet

III. Critical Points of Measure List

IV. How to Measure Manual - available as a separate manual

(IX) Packaging Compliance Audits

Introduction

Columbia Sportswear caters to a large number of retailers and agents who have many different
packing requirements. In some instances, we are asked to ship our products directly to the
retailers. Our own distribution systems also require a strict adherence to accurate packaging
and labeling. Regardless of the initial destination, it is critical that packing is 100% accurate to
allow for automated processing, to avoid delays, chargebacks and to meet end customer
expectations. As a result, we have established the following Packaging Compliance Audit
process to better monitor the packaging and labeling accuracy of our shipments.

Purpose

To insure that merchandise is shipped as specified and accurate in all vas requirements. This
audit would typically be performed by our inspectors as part of the Final Audit process, but can
also be a stand alone, planned audit.

We encourage our factories to follow this procedure at a minimum, or tighter, to ensure that your
internal inspections are thorough enough to pass the Columbia Sportswear QA Packaging
Compliance Audit.

Conducting the Audit

Lot Size: # of cartons in the shipment

Sampling Plan: Use the following table for initial Packaging Audits and re-audits of failed Packaging
Audits

Lot Size /
# of Cartons Max # of Pos # of Cartons to Inspect Accept

Up to 99 2 13 (Cover all sizes and colors) 0 defective

cartons

100 to 500 3 20 (Cover all sizes and colors) 1 defective

carton

501 and Above 4 32 (Cover all sizes and colors) 2 defective

cartons

NOTE: If a defective carton is found and the overall audit has passed, select an additional 3
cartons of the size and color in which the defect was found. If no additional defective cartons
are found in the extra 3, then the audit would pass. If additional defective cartons are found in
the 3 extra cartons, that size and color should fail and be reinspected by the factory and
reaudited.

Defects: Any defect found within the same carton is considered one defective carton. Use # of
cartons defective to determine pass/fail. On inspection sheet, note defect types and instance
quantities.

Inspection Procedures

Lot Integrity and Selection

o Obtain the completed packing list from the factory.
o Obtain the internal Packing Integrity report from the factory (if CSQA Audit).
o Ensure that cartons are neatly stacked in order, i.e.. by PO and carton number-wise.
o Confirm that cartons are stored in a secure, clean and dry area.
o See that cartons are not bulging from over packing, or collapsing due to under packing.
o Physically count the number of cartons to see that they match the packing list.
o Using the above sampling plan, RANDOMLY select the number of cartons to be
inspected per po
 Random means, all cartons should be available and have an opportunity to be
selected!
 The audit process can start as the lot is nearing completion, ie… 85%
 Simply select a proportional amount of finished cartons and the remainder
of the sample size from the remaining percentage when it is complete.

Packaging Compliance Audits

Auditing the Cartons

o Pull the required cartons and have them moved to a clear and clean inspecting area.
o Check the cartons for any damages, improper taping, and carton quality, especially the
edges.
o Verify that the carton dimensions meet the specified requirements for In-line Pos , or
requirements as called for in the VAS or PO copy. Non-compliance could result in a
failure.
o Weigh a carton of each size to verify that the Vas and PO list specs are met.
o Compare carton labeling accuracy against the details on the PO copy and VAS.
o Check for any special stickers and placement called out in the VAS or PO copy.
o Verify the barcode readability and accuracy of each carton and spot check numerous
units in each.
 Factories must have ability to verify bar code readability and accuracy regardless
of the label origin.
o Ensure that security tape meets specifications and hasn’t been tampered with.
o It is imperative that the carton sizes are correctly chosen for the size and folding of the
garment.
o The safety plate/ slash guard should cover the carton mouth to prevent knife damage.
o The contents in the carton should be neatly stacked, not overlapping, or crumpled.

Auditing the Contents

 o Verify that each garment, from each carton in the sample is accurate for carton count
and labeling.
o Verify that each garment label, polybag or hangtag is accurate including matching the
woven or heat set label. Again, check the complete contents of each of the sampled
cartons.
o Also be sure that all related packaging specs are met, including:
 Poly bag is not too small or not too large for garment
 Poly bag has air vents as required
 Poly bag has child warning printed behind as required
o Any other special requirements called out for in the VAS or PO copy
Packaging Defects
o A defect is considered a carton with one or more of any packaging or labeling related
non-conformance, including but not limited to:
 Carton quantity, color, size, assortment, etc., does not match carton labeling
 Carton contents are not neatly packaged
 Barcode stickers on poly bags, hang tags of garments and on cartons do not
match
 Any barcode label that does not scan or is not readable
 If poly bag size does not fit garment folding size correctly
 Use of a significantly oversized or undersized carton
 Carton dimension or weight does not meet the minimum or maximum
specifications
 Any damage to the carton’s exterior or interior that could result in garment
damage
 Improper or missing tape and labeling
 Any missing/incorrect information either on the carton or on the polybag
 Any missing/incorrect, information on hangtag or sticker from the garment
 Any missing or inaccurate hangtag, stickers, or improperly sealed polybags.
 Any damage, missing air-vents, or missing suffocation warning on polybags
 Any unreadable required carton markings or those that do not meet specs

Audit Results
o If any one or more of the above defects are noted within one carton, that carton is
defective
o If a defective carton is found and the overall audit has passed, select an additional 3
cartons of the size and color in which the defect was found. If no additional defective
cartons are found in the extra 3, then the audit would pass. If additional defective cartons
are found in the 3 extra cartons, that size and color should fail and be reinspected by the
factory and reaudited.
o If an audit has failed and all defects were from one size and color, then the failure
applies to only that size and color. The factory should spot check all others to ensure
conformance.

Audit Failures
o Factory must 100% inspect and correct immediately, reaudit internally and confirm re-
audit date CSQA
 Provide a detailed summary of the problems found, remove all defective
goods and segregate
  Must maintain lot integrity; keep replacement garments separate; update
packing list
 Reaudits should be completed typically within 24 hrs; less severity may allow
same day reaudit

For questions and assistance, please contact your local CSQA Area or Regional Manager.

(X) QFI Introduction

In an effort to improve our standing as a leader and a competitive force in the apparel industry,
Columbia Sportswear Company must provide our customers with a high quality, high value
product, at the correct time and in the correct manner. Achieving this goal will promote more
successful and efficient business partnerships throughout our supply chain and within our
customer base.

In order to achieve this goal, we have developed several new initiatives to improve our Quality
Assurance program and to transition to a supply base that is responsible for the quality of their
product. Our plan is to help build factory quality systems and continuous improvement efforts
that promote both prevention and corrective action. We must move to an environment that
results in "building the quality into the garments instead of inspecting quality into the garments".

The Qualified Factory Inspector Program is one of these initiatives, along with:
o Building a monitoring process in our Distribution Centers
o Implementing a Evaluation program to rate and build quality systems of factories and
fabric mills
o A new Factory Quality Control Manual; numerous other manuals including construction
o manufacturing standards and packaging
o Revised new auditing processes and procedures to improve the accuracy of
performance metrics

The Qualified Factory Inspector Program (QFI) is a comprehensive program to help develop
strong partnerships with our factories. We will help build and support quality systems to become
more effective and efficient. We will provide training to your inspectors and develop their abilities
to monitor CS products. And, we will help build internal and external Inspector defect recognition
and consistency within the factories and among our inspection teams.

CSQA will work with the factory to establish a team of inspectors who are responsible for
monitoring and inspecting all stages of production, which in turn will help ensure that product is
made correctly the first time. We will train factory inspectors how to audit product in a manner
consistent with Columbia’s procedures.

Columbia Sportswear QA strongly believes that the QFI program will improve your factory
efficiencies and product quality, and help better meet the ever increasing demands of our
customers in the following ways:
o Consistent, brand right, well constructed, high quality products
 o Sales Floor ready garments and 100% accurate shipments
o Drastically improved on time shipments

A few benefits that factories should realize include:

o Reduced handling, rework and excessive shipping costs incurred due to failed and
delayed audits
o Ship product with higher confidence that internal inspections will accurately reflect status
of the lot
o Take responsibility of their quality and reduce the need for Columbia inspections and
monitoring
o Improve communication with CSQA and better understand expectations and standards

The QFI program allows us to build our QA efficiency. We intend to develop and evolve the
program with strong factories that are committed to continuous improvement and their
partnership with Columbia and the overall success of the program. Our goal is to reduce the
time we are spending with our successful factories, including allowing a managed reduction in
the number of Inline and Final Audits we complete and establishing a monitoring process within
our Distribution Centers. Success in the QFI program should lead to a Qualified Factory
designation.

As we progress during 2008, we will determine how quickly this program will be developed.
Our intention is to reward those strong factories who take full ownership and responsibility for
the quality of merchandise they produce. We want to make the shipment of product as efficient
as possible and believe that we will be able to monitor the quality of our goods in a less involved
manner than today.

We want you to become a Qualified Factory with the responsibility to audit and release a high
percentage of your shipments. We congratulate you on being selected to participate in this
important initiative and look forward to working with you to make this a success for all.

If you have any questions, please speak with your local QA Manager or feel free to contact me.

Best Regards,
Lamar Hartness
Director, Global Quality Assurance
Columbia Sportswear Company
Office: 503-985-4709
Email: lhartness@columbia.com
(XI) Form Examples

Garment Wash Test Reporting Form Example

Reporting Worksheet

Style No. ___________________ Color ____________ Date _______________

PO # ______________________ Size _____________

Factory ____________________ Plant Managers Signature __________________

Dimensional Stability

Spec Meas. Unwashed Meas. Washed Meas. Shrinkage Acc/Rej

Length

Width

Appearance
Record Pass or Fail except where the Grey Scale is used for ratings or for Skew/Torque report
the percentage.

Appliqués, buttons or trims securely attached ________ Needle cuts and chews _______

Color Bleeding/Self Staining ( rating ) ________ Raveled Edges ________

Excessive color change ________ Seam Puckers ________

Holes or Other signs of excessive abrasion ________ Excessive Pilling ________

Handfeel same as before wash ________ Excessive Wrinkling ________

Zippers or Other trim items functioning properly _______ Torque/Skew ( % ) ________

Screen print / Heat Transfers ________ Embroidery ________

Comments

Fabric Inspection Sample Form

Standard #: CCS 110 Last issue date: 12/16/05

The factory will communicate quality issues directly to the vendor with supporting data
from work sheet and the defective samples. These will also be kept for Columbia
sportswear QC review.

Fabric Inspection Worksheet

Date:
Style: Invoice #:
Color code & Name:
Quantity:
Penalty Points
Roll # Lot # Length Real 1” to Over Over Over Total
on B/L Length 3” 3” – 6” 6” – 9” 9” Points
Totals:

Rejected:
Checked:
Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 1 Form Example

Fabric Supplier: Description: Yardage:

Factory:
P.O. # Color Name:
Date of Inspection:
Dye Lot #
Piece #
Piece Length
Defects 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4
Yarn
Broken Ends/Picks
Coarse Ends/Picks
Knots
Neps
Slubs
Weaving
Barre
Double Ends/Picks
End Out
Filing Bar
Float
Fly
Holes
Misdraw/Mispick
Mending Mark
Dyeing
Stain
Crease Mark
Off Pattern
Shrinkage Mark
Splice
Streaks
Total Points (Mill/Factory)
Total Points / 100 sq ft.
(Mill/Factory)
Weight
Width
Handfeel
Shading
Skewness
 Form Examples

Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 2 Form Example

FABRIC INSPECTION TALLY SHEET

Date: _______________ Fabric Code: ________________ Mill: ______________________

Fabric Description: ________________ P.O. #: _________________ Contract Width: _______________

Total
Color Dye Lot Piece Actual Cuttabl 1 2 3 4
Total Total Total Total Points/ Comments
Name # # Yardage e Width Point Points Points Points
Rolls
 Form Examples

Fabric Inspection Summary Report Form

FABRIC INSPECTION SUMMARY REPORT REV NO.01
FABRIC MILL CONSTRUCTION SPEC TOLERENCE FINDING C/NC REPORT NO.
P.O. NO & DATE
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
DESIGN & COLOR END / INCH DATE:
COUNTS
WARP PICKS / INCH
( See
WEFT
WIDTH below) BALE NO:

END OUT / DROP STITCH

LENGTH
EXCESS OR SHORTAGE

SHADE VARAITION
AS

STAINS & SOIL

DYE STREAKS
PER ACTUAL

PASS / FAIL
MISPICK

CREASE

OTHER
BARRE

STATUS
SLUBS
SLIP

TOTAL
WIDTH

HOLE
SL.

FLY
COMMENTS
NO.
MTS MTS

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
INSPECTOR: 1. ACCEPT WITH / WITHOUT CONCESSION
AUTHORITY FOR DISPOSTION (CE/GM): 2. REWORK
3. REJECT
TOTAL QUANTITY CHECKED :
4. SEGREGATION ( FOR CONSTRUCTION ONLY)
 Form Examples

Cutting Quality Control Inspection Form Example

 Form Examples

Sample Sizing Worksheet Form Example

Re-Audit Requirements and Form

 Form Examples

Re-Audit Form
Factory Requirements:

1. Complete form with all reinspection details

2. Provide to the CSQC Inspector at time of reaudit
3. Provide a copy of the passed factory final audit
4. Have all second or lesser quality, marked or defaced and ready for reaudit
5. We must verify all quantities
6. Maintain complete segregation and lot integrity
7. Keep replacement units separate for inspection

Vendor Name & Number: ________________________ Audit Date: ______________

Factory Name & Number: ________________________ Style Number: ______________

Quality Manager’s Name & Signature: __________________________________________________

Please provide all reinspection details.

Initial Final Audit Lot Size: ____________

Number of seconds removed: ____________

First quality units after 100% inspection: ____________

Types and quantity of defects found:

__________________________________________________________________________________

Additional Comments:

__________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________
 Form Examples

FACTORY INLINE INSPECTION FORM

QC Inspector: _____________________________________

Line #: _____________________________________

Date/ Week: _____________________________________ Line Supervisor: ____________________________

Pieces Inspected

% Defective in Initial
Total Initial Audit
( List as 7 / 0 )
5 for

Total Initial Audit

Inspections
Defects
For Failures Reserved For
Name of Inspect Follow Up
DAY Operator & Time
Inspect 7 Pieces

3 Consecutive Bundles that

Operation Bundles Fail DEFECT CLASSIFICATIONS
2nd follow up

2nd follow up
3rd follow up

3rd follow up
1st follow up

1st follow up

OTH
PUK

LNS
OS

RE
BS

SS

LP
< 24
 Form Examples

BS= Broken Stitch SS= Skip Stitch OS= Open Seam RE= Raw Edges PCK= Puckering LS= Loose Stitch S= Shading
LP= Label Placement OTH= Other Min. of 3 Initial Inspection per day
Inline Inspection Form Example