Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
BY
WANZUSI RONNALD
AUGUST 2010
Definitions of operational terms
Khanga-------------- A khanga is a brightly colored piece of cloth that many Eas
t African women wear. Many wear khangas over their skirts while working in the f
ields to keep the dust of their skirts. Khangas are also worn as head wraps.
Shuka--------------- A sash (decorative length of cloth) worn in parts of Africa
.
Kitenge ------------ A printed Fabric originating from West Africa
Agbada ------------- Agbada is the Yoruba name for a type of flowing wide sleeve
d robe, usually decorated with embroidery, which is worn throughout much of Nige
ria by important men, such as kings and chiefs, and on ceremonial occasions like
weddings and funerals
Kikoyi -------------- A piece of woven cloth from different threads of cotton ye
arn to provide the different patterns worn inside a Gomasi
Kofia --------------- Swahili word for a cap
Omutanda--------- Title for Buganda’s King
Omwogezi--------- Speaker
“unlike the Arabic tunic, which is characterized white color without decorations a
nd at times with a collar and a pocket, the traditional Kanzu has decorations in
maroon color as well as a feature called Omulela”.
In the face of contemporary fashion designs, the Omulela has been made of skill
fully colored materials and shapes to make the Kanzu more vibrant in form.
According to Jude Bukenya on UgPulse, a weblog, the groom wears a suit jacket on
top of the kanzu, and the bride s attire is the Gomesi. During Introduction c
eremonies it is customary for the groom to wear a white kanzu. The groomsmen and
other men who are members of the Introduction party wear the kanzu with a suit
jacket.
He further asserts that
“ the people in Buganda inherited this precious garment that has turned out to be
the national dress for Buganda and is one of the treasured clothes in people s w
ardrobes”.
If you have doubts, you should ask what Ugandan sportsmen and women sometimes pu
t on when they are going for national duty especially during the Olympics.
As seen in this the donning of the suit jacket atop the kanzu shows the influen
ce of contemporary fashion on the Baganda traditional ceremonial dress
The modern Kanzu don at social occasions is usually cream or white although some
people who hold cultural institutions with a lot of esteem still prefer to don
Kanzu made from bark cloth. It is very much emphasized and recommended on social
functions like introductions (Kwanjula) and failure by men (as it is also the c
ase with women not dressing in Gomesi) to appear in Kanzu can become an embarras
sment to the visitors.
During Kwanjula, the groom s side is not only required appear dressed in Kanzu,
but are also required to present some Kanzu to the bride s side. In Buganda, Kan
zu for the father of the bride to be as well as the brothers of the bride to be
is a MUST.
In extreme cases where the man s side fails or forgets to bring Kanzu for any of
the people supposed to get, there are either asked to go back or provide an env
elop with money (new era) that can buy the Kanzu.
This is however a diversion from culture that reveals how contemporary fashion h
as influenced or replaced items in terms of providing money in stead of what oug
ht to have been paid before the influx of contemporary fashion.
The influence of contemporary fashion on Buganda traditional ceremonial dress
Norms attached to a Kanzu
Western influence may have spread like dry season bush fire, but this influence
has failed to write off Kanzu from the Buganda tradition as it has done in some
societies in Uganda. For the many people who look at conserving culture as trend
y and fashionable, donning Kanzu is not just covering one s body but a sign of g
entility and proper conduct. This is because in Buganda, someone who puts on a t
unic is expected to be well behaved and gentle because any abuse of the garment
is like abusing the Buganda institution.
“Busuuti or gomesi has a distinct square-neck often decorated with two buttons. It
has a pointy sleeves and a huge sash draping over a full skirt.
“It is a colorful ankle length dress”
The Gomesi is a brightly colored cloth dress with a square neckline and short, p
uffed sleeves. The dress is tied with a sash placed below the waist over the hip
s. The Gomesi has two buttons on the left side of the neckline. Most Gomesi are
made of silk, cotton, or linen fabric, with silk being the most expensive. A kha
nga is tied underneath the linen Gomesi to ensure that the fabric does not stick
to the body matched with a ‘Kitambala’ to accompany that courtly attire. It can req
uire up to 6 meters of cloth for a well fitting Gomesi.
This shows that the Gomesi dress symbolizes the ostentation and conspicuous disp
lay and extravagancy of contemporary society where value for money is an alien c
oncept in relation to the contemporary materials used. From one gomesi, a contem
porary designer can make at least 3 size 12 ladies’ dresses….let alone the ‘Kikoyi’, and
‘Kitambala’ that accompany it.
Tobi (1958) argues that fabric cotton dresses came into Uganda with the arrival
of the Arabs in the country. Since the country was open up to trade with the oth
er non-African world, first by Arabs then by the Europeans and Indians
With the introduction of new fabrics, it gave a wide chance for western fashions
in Buganda which later contributed to a wider influence of these fashions on th
e further development of the Busuuti. The busuuti was not only local to cover th
e Baganda women’s body but had respect to various occasions
It should be noted therefore from the above that the inflow contemporary fashion
, the Busuuti advanced into a number of stages in terms of design thus making it
vibrant due to the transformation in materials, colors and style. This is evide
nt to show how vibrant the traditional ceremonial dress has been made under the
influence of contemporary fashion design.
Namutebi Alice (1998), reported that “ ...the coming of Europeans introduced a new
culture in Uganda which led to a new kind of dressing. Traditional attire were
suppressed in favor of foreign attire although traditional attire did not phase
out completely”
This report supports the evolution of fashion under contemporary fashion design
which shows that the existence of the traditional dress culture has remained dom
inant though modifications have been made in them pg 17
Christine Ndagire (1997) in her article flair for fashion in the B June 13-19 sp
ice magazine stated “ it is fashionable to support African clothes almost everywhe
re the African fabrics are taking the day ahead of imported silk and tetrons. Th
e beautiful color of creativity of African designs seems to be upstaging the dre
ary similarities of the other fabrics meaning or implying that contemporary fash
ions and its accompaniments are not only developed but also directly imported fr
om the western world and used perhaps”.
This statement shows that traditional dress culture has embraced western materia
ls fabrics, color and skills into traditional ceremonial wear
Changing Gomesi
Tobi (1958) clearly states that traditionally, the Busuuti is worn on all festiv
e and ceremonial occasions. However, it is a day-to-day dress for most rural wom
en who consider skirts and blouses as girls dresses and cannot wear trousers.
He further argues that originally there was one simple style of wearing a Gomesi
-that is wrapping the bark cloth around oneself. But as modernity set in and the
design became sophisticated, the details increased making wearing a Gomesi an e
laborate exercise, probably one reason why young people do not fancy it. Today s
Gomesi or Busuuti is often a floor-length, brightly colored cloth dress with a
square neckline and short, puffed sleeves. The garment is fastened with a modern
day material sash placed just below the waist over the hips, and by two buttons
on the left side of the neckline.
Today women opt for linen fabric contrary to bark cloth and cotton, women starte
d noticing that the new fabric easily sticks on the body and makes movement diff
icult. "To avoid the linen sticking onto the body, a Kikoyi came in handy as und
erwear. It is smooth, comfortable and remains dry even when one sweats," It also
provides more color to the traditional ceremonial wear and comes out in many pr
inted colors
As seen in this report, the use of contemporary materials improves on the tradit
ional ceremonial dress by providing the applicability of many printed colors to
make it more vibrant.
Gomesi losing out
Despite all the traditions and customs attached to the Gomesi, it is ever becomi
ng less popular and uncomfortable for young people especially professionals who
prefer business suits, trousers and dresses.
Cossy Nalugwa, a Makerere University student says a Gomesi is good but not frien
dly to the fast moving life of Kampala where one has to jump onto a boda boda or
bicycle to catch up with appointments. "As a member of Nkoba za Mbogo (a club o
f Baganda youth advocating for preservation of Buganda s cultural values), I am
supposed to support the wearing of a Gomesi, but a flexible design should be pro
moted so that more young people can wear them," says Nalugwa.
But flexibility is not the only reason why young women are shunning the Gomesi.
Modern young women have other feminine issues like whether the Gomesi will be ab
le to portray their curves and hips as much as they like.
"A Gomesi is not a right attire for a slender person like me," reasons Jennifer
Nakazibwe adding that some women stuff a blanket underneath so that their curves
can come out in a Gomesi... a mighty task.
This shows that contemporary fashion has been embraced by certain sections of pe
ople but depending on the circumstances, it still remains traditional in form th
ough enhanced by contemporary fashion.
CHAPTER THREE
METHODOLOGY
3.0 Introduction
This chapter looks at the design procedures and methods that will be used to car
ry out the study by the researcher during the process of conducting the study.
In the study the methods that will be considered by the researcher as the proced
ures which will be taken during data collection. These methods will include; que
stionnaires, observation, interviews, sampling and data analysis.
3.1 Observation
The observation study will be carried out in the form of visual study of the act
ual traditional ceremonial dress fashion produced by different designers for the
urban dwellers. It will focus mainly on the visible elements of the Kanzu, Busu
uti, and accessories. This will help the researcher get clear first hand informa
tion on the materials used. Fashions incorporated and colors favored for the tra
ditional ceremonial dress from the designers. During the observation procedure,
the researcher will try to study and compare the contemporary fashion alongside
traditional ceremonial dress. The activity is intended to find out the influence
of contemporary fashion designs on traditional ceremonial dress.
3.2 Questionnaires
This method will include questions that will be given to willing respondents in
the fashion design industry to give their views and answers in writing. Self adm
inistered questionnaires will be drawn from the different objectives that have b
een put together as regards to he researcher’s data collection. This will help the
researcher to collect relevant data focusing on the scope of the study and resu
lting in time saving. The questionnaires will be handed out to various designers
of traditional ceremonial dress who will be mainly involved in the study.
3.3 Sampling
The method of sampling will be used to select the designers randomly in order to
decrease the biasness that may arise and cause the data not to reflect the actu
al situation on ground. A total number of Twenty five designers will be selected
in and around Kampala incorporating male and female, young and old fashion desi
gners. This will be important to the study as it will generate information from
both the young designers who are much closer to contemporary fashion and the vie
ws of the older designers who have seen the evolution of the traditional ceremon
ial dress culture.
3.4 Interviews
An interview is a data collection technique that involves oral questioning of th
e respondents, either individually or as a group. This is one technique the rese
archer intends to use. The answers that will emerge out of the interviews will b
e recorded by the way of handwriting.
Interviewing involves systematic collection of data through asking questions, ca
refully listening to the answers and noting the answers that are of relevance to
the objectives of the research.
Through this method the researcher will be able to interact with different desig
ners personally to find out reasons that would have otherwise been hard to put i
n writing while using the questionnaire method
References
UGPulse: Tracing the Origin of the Gomesi/Busuuti retrieved
Fashion Encyclopedia: Clothing of African Cultures
Otto Patrick ”Gomesi” as a national dress of Uganda , 2009
(CULTURE, POLITICS)
Bukenya Jude "KANZU" A Traditional Costume, Ultimate Media retrieved
Tuesday, 03 April 2007
New Vision 16th November, 2006
Hannington John Speke, Journal of the Discovery of the Nile Sources.
1st edition 1863; Blackwood, London.
The ganda people by lubega weboro pg .64
The effect of western fashion on the development of the Ganda traditional dress
design today; pg 2
The ganda culture by Tobi pg.23
The ME magazine retrieved at www.me magazine.com
The spice magazine
http://www.ugandanlink.com/features/kanzu.html
Mutabaazi Enoch, Women dressed in busuuti,December 5, 2006 www.ugpulse.
com/articles/daily/Heritage