Lab Report:

Garment
Name:
Muhammad Hamza
Registration no:
17-NTU-1540
Semester:
3rd
Department:
Material and Testing
Submit to:
Sir. Mahmood Akhtar
Date of submission:
05-12-2018

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Experiment no:05
Title:
To study different parts of flat lock machine (3 needle,5
thread).

Abstract:
Flat locking is a great technique to learn on your over locker and
you don't need any special accessories to do it. The resulting seam lies flat so it
is a great option for clothing for kids who find a lot of their seams itchy. A
flatlock is different in several respects. Unlike an overlock, there are no layers
to the underside, the seam is butted together (usually, exceptions). On a flatlock,
there is no seam allowance with layers folding to the underside. Think of it this
way, in the application you’re describing there is no seam allowance per se
because the cut edges of fabric are butted against each other and joined flat in a
single layer with thread. The flatlock stitching on the top and bottom joins the
two butted pieces.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
• Introduction ………………………………………..04
• Background…………………………………………04
• Objectives………………………………………………....05
• Theory……………………………………………………..05
• Material ………………………………………….....05
• Parts of machine……………………………………05
• Result and conclusion………………………………07
• References…………………………………………..08
• Picture of machine …………………………………09

Introduction:
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 Flat locking is a great technique to learn on your serger/over locker
and you don't need any special accessories to do it. The resulting seam lies flat
so it is a great option for clothing for kids who find a lot of their seams itchy. A
flatlock is different in several respects. Unlike an overlock, there are no layers
to the underside, the seam is butted together (usually, exceptions). On a flatlock,
there is no seam allowance with layers folding to the underside. Think of it this
way, in the application you’re describing there is no seam allowance per se
because the cut edges of fabric are butted against each other and joined flat in a
single layer with thread. The flatlock stitching on the top and bottom joins the
two butted pieces. Below is a photo of a flatlock seam (courtesy).
The seam of the overlock/cover stitch as compared to flatlock is
thicker because it has layers of fabric. First you serge a seam meaning
there’s two layers of fabric the width of seam allowance on the underside.
Then that is top stitched down with the cover stitch or if you’re attaching
binding it’s done in one pass but there’s still extra layers there from the
allowances. There’s a lot of thread concealing this on the underside which
kinds of cushions and flattens it. However, the flatlock while also with lots
of threads, has no seam allowance layers turned to the underside because
the cut edges are butted against each other.
Flat locking is used primarily for performance goods, it has fewer layers to
chafe. It depends on what you want to do. If you’re running a marathon,
you definitely want tights with a flatlock. An overlocked cover stitched
seam, while it won’t pull apart, will chafe along your legs and cause
bleeding. There’s other uses too; if you’re making apparel for children
with sensory challenges, a flatlock seam is more comfortable. An overlock
may or may not bother children (or even adults) depending on thread type
but in active wear, you’d only use overlocking on seams of garments
intended for light training.

Background:
A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch fabric and other materials
together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial
Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in
clothing companies. Since the invention of the first working sewing machine,
generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in
1790 the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity
of the clothing industry.

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Home sewing machines are designed for one person to sew individual items
while using a single stitch type. In a modern sewing machine the fabric easily
glides in and out of the machine without the inconvenience of needles
and thimbles and other such tools used in hand sewing, automating the process
of stitching and saving time.
Industrial sewing machines, by contrast to domestic machines, are larger, faster,
and more varied in their size, cost, appearance, and task.

Objectives:
1. To study the different parts of 3 needle 5 thread flat lock machine briefly.
2. To learn functions and working principle of different parts of machine.

Theory:
Flat locking is used primarily for performance goods, it has fewer
layers to chafe. It depends on what you want to do. If you’re running a
marathon, you definitely want tights with a flatlock. An overlocked cover
stitched seam, while it won’t pull apart, will chafe along your legs and
cause bleeding. There’s other uses too; if you’re making apparel for
children with sensory challenges, a flatlock seam is more comfortable. An
overlock may or may not bother children (or even adults) depending on
thread type but in active wear, you’d only use overlocking on seams of
garments intended for light training.

Material:
1. 3 needle 5 thread flat lock machine
2. Thread cone

Parts of machine:
1. Thread stand assembly
2. Thread guide pin rod assembly
3. Thread guide tensioner assembly
4. Thread tension assembly
5. Three thread guides A,B,C,D holes
6. Three holes thread take up lever
7. Heat resistance device
8. Needle bar
9. Needle bar clamp
10.Presser foot

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 11.Presser foot bar regulatory assembly
12.Feed dog
13.Thread plate
14.Oil plug
15.Oil sight window
16.Oil gage
17.Stitch dial
18.Reverse feed control lever
19.Hand wheel
20.Belt cover
21.Machine paddle
22.Presser foot lifter
Thread stand assembly:
It is the stand which is used to put cones of thread to use thread.
All threads are supplies from this stand.

Thread guide pin rod assembly:

Thread guide pin rod assembly used to give path of thread to
thread guide tensioner assembly.

Thread tension assembly:

It gives path and tension to the thread due to which thread moves
constantly towards next parts of machine.

Three holes Thread guide A,B,C,D:

Three holes thread guide give path to thread. These thread holes are
on line so they are known as thread guide A,B,C,D.

Heat resistance device:

It is used to apply the oil to thread which give strength to thread and
reduce the effect of hairiness.

Three holes thread take up lever:

It takes the thread from three holes thread guide D and feed it to
needle assembly.

Needle bar:

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 Needle bar is used to catch the needle to sew and support the needle.

Needle bar clamp:

Needle bar clamp is used to gripe needle bar.

Presser foot bar:

It is used to hold presser foot with helps of presser foot bar.

Oil plug:
Oil plug is used to insert oil in the machine.

Oil sight window:

From oil sight window we observe how much oil is in the machine.

Oil gage:
When the oil is insert in the machine from oil plug, we check oil from oil
gage.

Feet dog:
Feet dog is used to move fabric under presser foot in the machine.

Stitch dial:
Stitch dial is used to control stitch per inch.

Machine paddle:
It is used to start and stop the machine. If we press the paddle then machine
started.

Foot lifter:
It is used to lift presser foot up.

Result and Conclusion:

Flat lock machine designed for sewing of fabric by uses flat lock
mechanism.

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Where we uses two or three sewing for aesthetic purpose we use flat lock
machine.

References:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_machine - Coverstitch

http://gotosew.com/2013/11/guide-to-flatlocking-on-your-serger/

https://dir.indiamart.com/impcat/flat-lock-machine.html

https://fashion-incubator.com/flatlocking-compared-to-cover-stitching-and-overlocking/

https://www.yamato-sewing.com/en/product/interlock_flatlock/

https://www.universalsewing.com/tek9.asp?pg=parts_pegasus

https://www.ae-sewingmachines.co.uk/partsbooks/pegasus/

https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/06/flatlock-sewing-machine.html

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