Katalog Cities On The Move

CITIES ON THE MOVE
– POST-OTTOMAN
Ankara, Belgrade, Istanbul and Sarajevo Through the Press Photographer’s Lens, 1920s and 1930s
 I.IV SIBA 4023
This exhibition is a product of the SNSF research project SIBA — The Museum of Yugoslavia supports this exhibition in the
A Visual Approach to Explore Everyday Life in Turkish and Yugoslav scope of its institutional partnership (IP) with the Middle
Cities, 1920s and 1930s (PP00P1_144751), funded by the Swiss Eastern Studies, Social Sciences Department, University of
National Science Foundation 2013–2017 and directed by Basel, and their joint project Visual Archive Yugoslavia, funded
Nataša Mišković at the Middle Eastern Studies, Social Sciences as part of the SCOPES programme by the Swiss National
Department, University of Basel. Science Foundation and the Swiss Agency for Development and
Cooperation.
CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN
EXHIBITION GUIDE
Ankara, Belgrade, Istanbul and Sarajevo

Through the Press Photographer’s Lens,
1920s and 1930s
7 September 2017 to 28 January 2018
Historical Museum of Serbia

Trg Nikole Pašića 11, Belgrade
Project leader and exhibition curator:

Prof. Dr. Nataša Mišković
For 500 years, the Ottoman Empire ruled over the Balkan
Peninsula and Asia Minor (Anatolia) until, at the end
of World War I, it ultimately fell apart. Out of its ruins,
modern nation states were created, which rejected the
Ottoman legacy. This resulted in profound changes in the
everyday lives of people, especially of those living in the
large cities.
Press photographs of the interwar period highlight the changes in four selected
cities within two of these nation states: Istanbul and Ankara in Turkey, Belgrade
and Sarajevo in the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (Yugoslavia). These
four cities experienced the changes in equally profound, but very different
ways: Istanbul was the former centre of the fallen Ottoman world; Ankara be-
came the capital of the Turkish Republic. Belgrade, the seat of the Serbian king,
was expanded to become the capital of Yugoslavia and, for the first time, the
Bosnian city of Sarajevo was administered in its own language.
The images presented in this exhibition provide unexpected insights into

unknown, yet somehow familiar, life worlds: in the city centres, fashionably
dressed pedestrians walk by new buildings and numerous construction sites.
Military and sports groups celebrate the young nations in street parades and
newly opened sports stadiums. Yet the bazaar, the heart of every Ottoman town,
continues to function as a meeting place where people buy and sell while shar-
ing the latest gossip. Here, time seems to stand still.
The photographs are grouped accordingly, to cover five topics:
1. The City Centre; p. 9

2. Nation and the Body; p. 17
3. Dressing the Nation; p. 25
4. Leisure and Religion; p. 33
5. The Bazaar. p. 39
2 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

They document an urban public that is surprisingly similar in Istanbul, Belgrade,
Ankara and Sarajevo. We find many references to the post-Ottoman context, but
even more to European urbanity and the zeitgeist of the 1920s and 1930s.
The images were mostly taken by photographers working for the leading
Turkish and Yugoslav daily newspapers published in Belgrade and Istanbul at
that time: for Cumhuriyet, Namık Görgüç and Selahattin Giz, for Politika, Alek-
sandar Simić and Raka Ruben, and for Vreme, Svetozar Grdijan. These press
photographers often worked in pairs and usually shared their work. It is there-
fore difficult to attribute authorship. Pictures originating from Politika and
Cumhuriyet are indicated as the work of Simić/Ruben (Politika) and Görgüç/Giz
(Cumhuriyet). Giz‘ archive is today owned by Yapı Kredi (Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi,
Istanbul). The pictures attributed to Aca Simić and today held by the Belgrade
Museum of Applied Arts (Muzej primenjene umetnosti) were purchased direct-
ly from the photographer’s widow. In other cases, Simić signed his own neg-
atives. The Vreme archive that holds Svetozar Grdijan’s work is in the posses-
sion of Borba Fotodokumentacija.
Sarajevo photography professor Mehmed A. Akšamija and Istanbul photo histo-

rian and curator of the Museum of Photography, Cengiz Kahraman, have opened
their outstanding photography collections for this exhibition. The authorship of
these pictures and others provided by the Ankara Municipality (Ankara Büyükşehir
Belediyesi), the Ankara National Library (Ankara Milli Kütüphane), the Belgrade
Theatre Museum (Muzej Pozorišne Umetnosti), the Sarajevo City Museum (Muzej
Sarajeva), the Sarajevo Historical Archive (Historijski Arhiv Sarajeva), Bilgi Uni-
versity, and VEKAM, is attributed where the author’s identity has been researched
and is known. In addition, several photographs taken by the exceptional Bosnian
photographer Alija M. Akšamija, then 19 years old, and by Istanbul photographer
Jean Weinberg, are on display.
This exhibition is the result of the research project SIBA — A Visual Approach
to Explore Everyday Life in Turkish and Yugoslav Cities, 1920s and 1930s, which is
associated to the Middle Eastern Studies, Social Sciences Department, Univer-
sity of Basel, and financed by the Swiss National Science Foundation. In the
exhibition, we use the same identification numbers as in our scientific data-
base. The four figures indicated under the photographic reproductions link
the pictures with the captions list in this guide and, with the consent of the
copyright holders, with detailed descriptions available on our scientific online
portal VASE, the Visual Archive Southeastern Europe.
(http://gams.uni-graz.at/vase)
Nataša Mišković
CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 3

Istanbul
Dolmabahçe
Taksim
Beyoǧlu
Haliç (Golden Horn)
Tophane
Fatih Eminönü
Beyazıt
Aksaray Sultanahmet
4
Ankara
Ulus Square
Anafartalar Street
Citadel (Ankara Kalesi)
Istasyon Caddesi (later Cumhuriyet Caddesi)
future Gençlik Park

Railway Station
future Atatürk Boulevard
future Yenişehir
5
Beograd
King Peter Street (old bazaar)
Kalemegdan Knez Mihailo Street
Old Market (Studentski trg)

Sava Harbour Theatre Square
Parliament
Zemun Bridge Terazije
Slavija
6
Sarajevo
Mihrivode
Vratnik
Kovači
King Aleksandar (Titova) Street

Baščaršija
Marijin dvor
7
I. The City Centre: Stage of the Political Elite
There was constant building activity in the city centres during the
interwar period. The new capitals in particular, Ankara and Belgrade,
were modernized and furnished with representative buildings to
house the government and army, as well as educational and cultural
institutions. They were grouped along streets featuring modern infra-
structure or around imposing monuments and squares with spacious
green areas. The designers were renowned urban planners, both do-
mestic and from abroad. This suggests that the modern environment
served as a fitting stage for the political agendas of the new govern-
ments.
Ankara Yenişehir was a brand new city dotted with Atatürk memorials.
War-ridden Belgrade received a large parliament building, sizable ad-
ministrative buildings and bridges over the Danube and Sava. The old
fort was transformed into a gentrified park. Istanbul’s Taksim Square
was decorated with a memorial to Atatürk and the War of Independ-
ence, designed by an Italian sculptor, and transformed into a symbol
of the Republic, whereas imperial Beyazıt Square continued to serve
as a parade ground. In comparison, Sarajevo retained its pre-war char-
acter.
 I.V SIBA 1195

Panel I
SIBA 5175 SIBA 4877 SIBA 5406
Foto Tausch: Alija M. Akšamija: Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
Nadmlin in winter, Sarajevo Girls at a window, Sa- Relocation, Belgrade
Muzej Sarajeva rajevo 1939 Politika Dokumentacija
Mehmed A. Akšamija Pho-
tography Collection
SIBA 1077
SIBA 1181 The Tayyare apartment
SIBA 5287
Yeni Gün Printing buildings, Istanbul
House, Ankara Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Cengiz Kahraman
Cengiz Kahraman Photogra- Traditional building and con- Photography Collection
phy Collection struction on Bosanska Street,
Belgrade 1931
Politika Dokumentacija
SIBA 1054
Slums in the Ahırkapı SIBA 5414
Treneke District, Istanbul
Cengiz Kahraman Pho- Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
tography Collection Construction work on Slavija
Square, Belgrade
SIBA 5031
Mahalla in Sarajevo
Mehmed A. Akšamija
Photography Collection

Panel II
Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: View from Laleli Road towards
View of Knez Mihailo Street, Aerial view of construction Aksaray Pertevniyal Valide
Belgrade 1934 work in Prizren Street, Bel- Sultan Mosque, Istanbul
Politika Dokumentacija grade Cengiz Kahraman Pho-
Politika Dokumentacija tography Collection
SIBA 1179
SIBA 4812 SIBA 4854
Fruit market in Ankara, 1930s
Cengiz Kahraman Pho- Aca Simić: Alija M. Akšamija:
tography Collection Aerial view of Bosniak gentleman in
Belgrade‘s old city Baščaršija, Sarajevo 1939
Muzej Primenjene Umet- Mehmed A. Akšamija
SIBA 1321 nosti, Belgrade Photography Collection
The Talimhane apartment
buildings, Istanbul 1930
SIBA 1191
Cengiz Kahraman Pho-
tography Collection View of the Ikinci Evkaf apart-
ment building, the Gençlik
Park area and the old railway
SIBA 1301 station, Ankara, ca. 1930
Galata Bridge in winter, Cengiz Kahraman Pho-
Istanbul 1929 tography Collection
Cengiz Kahraman Pho-
tography Collection

Panel III
Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Svetozar Grdijan: Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
Onlookers watch a fire in Unveiling of the ‘Victor‘ View of the Sava Harbour,
the Grand Bazaar from the monument in Kalemegdan, Belgrade
Galata Bridge, Istanbul 1943 Belgrade 1928 Politika Dokumentacija
(probably) Borba Fotodokumentacija
Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi
SIBA 5466
SIBA 5241
Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
SIBA 4113
Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Transporting material for
Svetozar Grdijan: Tram climbing the incline on building the Zemun Bridge,
Fireman on the collapsed roof Pariska Street, Belgrade, ca. 1930
of the ‘Kasina‘ cinema, Kalemegdan, Belgrade Politika Dokumentacija
Belgrade 1928 Politika Dokumentacija
Borba Fotodokumentacija
SIBA 4151
SIBA 1158
Svetozar Grdijan:
Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Construction work at Prince
Photographing a worker on Mihailo‘s Memorial Statue,
the Beyazıt Mosque minaret, Belgrade ca. 1930
Istanbul 1936 Borba Fotodokumentacija
Cengiz Kahraman
SIBA 4796
Aca Simić:
Construction work on Knez
Mihailo Street, Belgrade 1927
Muzej Primenjene Umetnosti

Panel IV
View from Ulus Square Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
towards Anafartalar Street Terazije Square and the View of the former Ottoman
and the Citadel, Ankara, after Moskva Hotel, Belgrade governor‘s konak and the
1938 Politika Dokumentacija Victor statue on Kalemegdan,
Mehmed A. Akšamija Belgrade, after 1928
Photography Collection Politika Dokumentacija
SIBA 1168
Cumhuriyet Street (Atatürk
SIBA 1332 SIBA 5324
Boulevard) with a view of the
The Ferah Theatre in Hariciye Vekaleti building Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
Şehzadebaşi, Istanbul (Foreign Office), the Ankara Horse towing a motor car on a
Cengiz Kahraman Law School (left), and, on main street, Belgrade
Photography Collection the hill, the Museum of Politika Dokumentacija
Ethnography, Ankara,
after 1933
SIBA 2113 Cengiz Kahraman
The Ankara municipality Photography Collection
building and the Citatel seen
from Anafartalar Street,
SIBA 4202
early 1920s
Ankara Büyükşehir Belediyesi Svetozar Grdijan:
Collection View of the Riunione building
from Kosančićev Venac,
Belgrade, ca. 1930
SIBA 5272 Borba Fotodokumentacija
View of the Palace, the
unfinished parliament
building and Takovska Street
from St. Mark’s Church,
Belgrade, ca. 1935

Panel V
Aca Simić: View of Taksim Square from Cercle d‘Orient and the
View of the Theatre Square a minaret in Istiklal Street, Opera cinema on Istiklal
and the Army House from Istanbul Street, Beyoğlu, Istanbul
the Riunione building, Cengiz Kahraman Cengiz Kahraman
Belgrade, ca. 1930 Photography Collection Photography Collection
SIBA 5173 SIBA 1195
SIBA 4834
View of King Aleksandar Hakimiyet-i Milliye (Ulus)
Aca Simić: (Titova) Street, Sarajevo Square, with Iş Bankası
The coffee house in the Muzej Sarajeva and Sümerbank buildings
new Riunione building on and the Atatürk Victory
Theatre Square, Monument, Ankara 1938
Belgrade, ca. 1930 SIBA 5036 Cengiz Kahraman
Muzej Primenjene Umetnosti The National Bank in King Photography Collection
Aleksandar (Titova) Street,
Sarajevo
SIBA 1186
Mehmed A. Akšamija
The Atatürk Monument in Photography Collection
front of the Museum of
Ethnography, Ankara, ca.
1927
Cengiz Kahraman
I.III SIBA 4013 

15
II. Nation and the Body: Youth Mobilization and Sport
Many of the interwar press photographs depict scenes of sport
and military parades. The number of youth of both sexes involved
is striking. Young men‘s bodies were trained to defend the nation,
whereas young women with revolutionary short haircuts and short
sportswear embodied the nation‘s transformation. In Turkey, parades
were organized on the occasion of Republic Day (Cumhuriyet Bayramı)
and the Youth and Sports Festival (Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı). In
Yugoslavia, the popular pan-Slavic ‘Sokol’ organization promoted the
national unity of the Yugoslav peoples.
This form of mobilization offered a sense of common purpose in times
of change and promoted the emancipation of women. Discipline and
state control were the other side of the coin. The national project, as
represented by the heads of state, was contested. King Aleksandar was
murdered in Marseille in 1934, while Atatürk died in Istanbul in 1938.
In nation-wide funeral processions, their dead bodies were paraded
through their respective countries. In contrast, the burials of religious
leaders seem like symbols of the past.
 II.III SIBA 4826

Panel I
Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Svetozar Grdijan: Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
Choking on gas, Beyazıt A World War I veteran in A census official at the door,
Square, Istanbul 1939 national costume displaying Istanbul 1935
Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi medals poses in the Vreme Cengiz Kahraman
office, Belgrade Photography Collection
SIBA 3103
Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: SIBA 3070
Two officials in gas masks SIBA 4948
Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
riding a motorcycle with World War I Serbian soldier Checking a driver‘s license,
sidecar in Beyoğlu, and his father resting Istanbul
Istanbul 1939 Mehmed A. Akšamija Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi
Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi Photography Collection
SIBA 5461
SIBA 3102 SIBA 4111
Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Svetozar Grdijan: No Smoking, Belgrade 1933
Uniformed officials in gas Army bread distribution Politika Dokumentacija
masks pose in front of a gate, Borba Fotodokumentacija
Beyazıt Square, Istanbul 1939
SIBA 1272
Officers posing behind
equipment belonging to an
illegal distillery, Eminönü,
Istanbul 1931
Cengiz Kahraman

Panel II
Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Svetozar Grdijan: Svetozar Grdijan:
Lady in a glider on Beyazıt Archpriest Pera Marković Portrait of 15-year-old female
Square, Istanbul 1937 blessing an airplane, Belgrade boxer Koka Cvijić, Belgrade
Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi 1929 1928
Borba Fotodokumentacija Borba Fotodokumentacija
SIBA 4846
SIBA 4178 SIBA 2400
Maga Magazinović and her
dance group performing on Svetozar Grdijan: Schoolchildren of the new
the Kalemegdan summer A member of the Yugoslav Turkish Republic in uniforms
stage, Belgrade, ca. 1930 swimming team, Belgrade and partly with close-cropped
Muzej Pozorišne Borba Fotodokumentacija hair, Ankara, after 1928
Umetnosti, Belgrade Ankara Milli Kütüphane
SIBA 4210
Svetozar Grdijan:
Serbian and Croatian beauty
queens in national costume,
Belgrade, ca. 1930
SIBA 3230
Laying a wreath at the
Republic Monument on
Taksim Square during the
Balkan Games, Istanbul 1935

Panel III
Svetozar Grdijan: Sports demonstration in Aca Simić:
The royal box during the first the Ankara 19 May Stadium, Women
Pan-Sokol Rally, Belgrade probably on 19 May in national costume
1930 (Commemoration of Atatürk, ascending the Monument to
Borba Fotodokumentacija Youth and Sports Day), 1930s the Unknown Hero on Avala,
Mehmed A. Akšamija Belgrade, ca. 1938
Photography Collection Muzej Primenjene Umetnosti
SIBA 5430
SIBA 5474 SIBA 5475
Female Sokol activists
rehearsing in the Pan-Sokol Sokol sports demonstration Sokol activists parading in
Rally stadium, Belgrade 1930 in the stadium King Aleksandar (Titova)
Politika Dokumentacija at Marijin Dvor, Sarajevo Street, Sarajevo
Mehmed A. Akšamija Mehmed A. Akšamija
Photography Collection Photography Collection
SIBA 4974
Alija M. Akšamija:
SIBA 4053 SIBA 3229
Members of the Rogatica
Sokol Society posing in Svetozar Grdijan: Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
sportswear Young female Sokol society A choir in Yugoslav national
Mehmed A. Akšamija members from Skopje posing costume performing on
Photography Collection near Belgrade Railway Taksim Square during the
Station, 1930 Balkan Games, Istanbul 1935
Borba Fotodokumentacija Yapı Kredi Tarih
Arşivi, Istanbul
SIBA 5167
Sokol manifestation in the
sports stadium at Marijin
Dvor, Sarajevo
Muzej Sarajeva

Panel IV
Beyazıt Square on the Day of Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
the Republic, Istanbul 1935 The funeral parade of Atatürk German Reich Minister
Cengiz Kahraman on Ulus Square, Ankara 1938 Walther Funk on an official
Photography Collection Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi visit to Istanbul, Taksim
Square 1938
SIBA 1036 SIBA 4038
Sandık alayı, parading the Svetozar Grdijan:
SIBA 1074
ballot box in Divanyolu, ‘Slava‘ ceremony for the
August 1923 ‘Gvozdeni puk‘ Second Infantry Army parade on Taksim
Cengiz Kahraman Division, Belgrade 1930 Square during 29 October
Photography Collection Borba Fotodokumentacija celebrations (Day of the
Republic), 1933
Cengiz Kahraman
SIBA 1104 SIBA 1080 Photography Collection
Liberation of Ankara, Taşhan Scouts parading in Bahçekapı,
Square (Ulus), October 1922 Istanbul 1925
Cengiz Kahraman Cengiz Kahraman
SIBA 1099
19 May Celebrations
(Commemoration of Atatürk,
Youth and Sports Day) in 19
May Stadium, Ankara, after
1936
Cengiz Kahraman

Panel V
Zsa Zsa Gabor and companion Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Kissing the hand of dead
posing in front of the Security Demonstration on Taksim Patriarch Photios II, Istanbul
Monument (Güvenlik Aniti) Square, Istanbul 1935
under construction, Kızılay, Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi Cengiz Kahraman
Ankara, ca. 1935 Photography Collection
Bilgi Üniversitesi, Edebiyat
Fakültesi Arşivi, Istanbul SIBA 5403
SIBA 4944
King Aleksandar‘s funeral, The funeral of reis-ul-
SIBA 5476
arrival at Belgrade Railway ulema Džemaludin Čaušević,
The Grand National Assembly Station, October 1934 Sarajevo 1938
in Ankara, April 1920 Politika Dokumentacija Mehmed A. Akšamija
Mehmed A. Akšamija Photography Collection
SIBA 3338
SIBA 1114
Atatürk‘s funeral procession
Atatürk‘s first visit to Istanbul passing through Galata,
on 1 July 1927 Istanbul, November 1938
Cengiz Kahraman Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi
SIBA 3058
Clashes between the police
and student demonstrators
during the ‘Wagon-Lits‘
incident on Taksim Square,
Istanbul 1933
II.II SIBA 4178 

III. Dressing the Nation: Fes, Hat and Headscarf
Dress is a marker of social belonging. In Turkey and Yugoslavia, as

elsewhere, the switch from pre-modern dress to European clothing
occurred at varying speeds. The elites dressed in the latest fashions
and according to occasion, while the poor were reduced to rags and
often did not even own shoes. Peasants continued to wear traditional
costume identifying them according to religion and marital status.
In Turkey, a series of laws prescribed a secular dress code. From 1925
onwards, Turkish officials were obliged to wear hats instead of the
habitual fes. School children were to dress in uniform. Women, who
were awarded active and passive voting rights in 1930 and 1935
respectively, were asked to replace the veil with a coat. In Sarajevo,
urban middle-class fashion reflected differing opinions about change:
the religious and conservative clung to the fes and veil, while the
progressively-minded sported brimmed hats and bob haircuts.
Panel I
SIBA 5335
At the community kitchen, Belgrade
SIBA 3295
Worker eating his lunch at the fish market, Eminönü, Istanbul
SIBA 3252
Crazy Mehmet and his friend Salih celebrating a sip of liquor, Serseriler
Mahallesi, Tophane, Istanbul 1931
SIBA 1161
Pazarola Hasan Bey drinks coffee, Sultanahmet, Istanbul 1925
Cengiz Kahraman Photography Collection
SIBA 2350
Female workers in a tobacco factory, Ankara
Ankara Milli Kütüphane
 III.V SIBA 1324

SIBA 4058 SIBA 3123
Svetozar Grdijan: Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
Innkeeper Milorad Aćimović‘s Old woman at the Laleli
wife Tomanija in her bedroom community kitchen (Laleli
following an assault, Külliyesi imarethanesi),
Belgrade 1929 Istanbul, approx. 1940
Borba Fotodokumentacija Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi
SIBA 1069 SIBA 4867

Four men and a ‘nargile‘ pipe Alija M. Akšamija:
in a coffeehouse, Karagümrük, Roma woman with a child on
Fatih, Istanbul 1931 a mule, Sarajevo 1938
Cengiz Kahraman Mehmed A. Akšamija

Panel II
Alija M. Akšamija: Veiled Bosniak women and Young girls in festive costume
Catholic peasant couple in a man at an annual society in a domestic courtyard,
Baščaršija, Sarajevo 1939 festival (teferič) Sarajevo
Mehmed A. Akšamija Muzej Sarajeva Muzej Sarajeva
SIBA 4870 SIBA 4878
SIBA 4875
Alija M. Akšamija: Alija M. Akšamija:
Alija M. Akšamija: Mahalla fashion, Vratnik, In front of the family home in
Catholic peasant and girl in Sarajevo 1939 Vratnik, Sarajevo 1939
Baščaršija, Sarajevo 1939 Mehmed A. Akšamija Mehmed A. Akšamija
Mehmed A. Akšamija Photography Collection Photography Collection
SIBA 5062
SIBA 4909
Old man smoking, Sarajevo
Sarajevo Muslim mounted Mehmed A. Akšamija
on a horse and ready for Photography Collection
the Hurijet Society‘s annual
festival
Mehmed A. Akšamija

Panel III
Alija M. Akšamija: Young girls in school uniform, Svetozar Grdijan:
Transvestite with a parasol in Ankara 1927 Buying chickens at the Zeleni
Mihrivode, Sarajevo 1939 VEKAM Vehbi Koç Ve Venac Market, Belgrade, late
Mehmed A. Akšamija Araştırmaları Merkezi, Ankara 1920s
Photography Collection Borba Fotodokumentacija
SIBA 4790
SIBA 5311 SIBA 1347
Aca Simić:
Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Belgrade shoeshiner, Belgrade Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
Ladies in national costume 1926 Schoolgirls selling badges on
waiting in front of a Muzej Primenjene Umetnosti Galata Bridge, Istanbul
hairdresser‘s Cengiz Kahraman
Politika Dokumentacija Photography Collection
SIBA 5119
Two young Bosniak ladies,
SIBA 2137 SIBA 3393
Sarajevo
Two elegant men in suits take Muzej Sarajeva Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
a camel ride, Ankara Woman breastfeeding her
Ankara Büyükşehir child during a court session at
Belediyesi Collection the old Darülfunun building,
Istanbul, 1920s

Panel IV
The Levy family, Sarajevo Elegant Bosniak Namık Görgüç:
Mehmed A. Akšamija couple on a street Portrait of a young girl
Photography Collection Muzej Sarajeva on Süleyman Seba Street,
Istanbul 1930
Cengiz Kahraman
SIBA 4109 SIBA 4793 Photography Collection
Svetozar Grdijan: Aca Simić:
Young girl on a mule, Elegant citizens walking in
SIBA 4168
Belgrade Kalemegdan Park,
Borba Fotodokumentacija Belgrade 1927 Svetozar Grdijan:
Muzej Primenjene Umetnosti Ladies at the hippodrome,
Belgrade
SIBA 4044 Borba Fotodokumentacija
SIBA 4123
Svetozar Grdijan:
Preparing for the lucky draw, Svetozar Grdijan:
Belgrade 1929 Elegant couple with a little
Borba Fotodokumentacija girl, Belgrade
SIBA 1192
Visitors at the hippodrome,
Ankara
Cengiz Kahraman

Panel V
Svetozar Grdijan: Beauty queens at a ball, Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
Elegantly dressed men Istanbul 1930 Queen Mary at a reception at
celebrating on the terrace of Cengiz Kahraman the British Embassy, Belgrade,
Restaurant Dedinje, Belgrade Photography Collection early 1930s
Borba Fotodokumentacija Politika Dokumentacija
SIBA 1212
SIBA 1138 SIBA 1324
Cheering at a New Year‘s ball,
Two ladies and a man Beyoğlu, Istanbul, 1930s Lady driver
drinking beer in a beer Cengiz Kahraman Cengiz Kahraman
garden, Istanbul 1929 Photography Collection Photography Collection
Cengiz Kahraman
SIBA 1223
Ball at the Dolmabahçe
SIBA 4969
Palace
Elegant driver in a ‘fes‘ sitting Cengiz Kahraman
at a car‘s wheel, Sarajevo Photography Collection
Mehmed A. Akšamija
SIBA 1051
Court proceedings against
Aliye Berger, Istanbul 1930
Cengiz Kahraman
III.III SIBA 5119 

IV. Leisure and Religion
National modernity introduced new forms of entertainment to Turkish

and Yugoslav cities. War had relaxed the moral code. Immigrants from
Russia and, in Istanbul in particular, allied soldiers who had stayed
on opened cafés and clubs in Beyoğlu. To a lesser extent, such cafés
opened in Ankara and Belgrade, too. Alcohol was more than a pastime
for many who had become stranded and were unable to establish a
new life after the war. Public sports activities were directed mainly
towards youth and the well-to-do. The poor and the elderly were
left to look on. Traditional entertainment linked to religious holidays
continued as before: church and ramadan fairs, slava and kurban
celebrations, weddings and funerals. In Sarajevo and other towns,
social activities flourished separated along community lines and
within guilds, just like in Ottoman times.
 IV.III SIBA 5456

Panel I
Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Revue at Tepebaşı Kışlık Svetozar Grdijan:
Day labourers sleeping on a Garden, Istanbul Ladies at a bar, Belgrade
park bench, Belgrade Cengiz Kahraman Borba Fotodokumentacija
Politika Dokumentacija Photography Collection
SIBA 1281 SIBA 3312

Children laughing at a Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
drunkard, Istanbul Ladies in the Turan Bar,
Cengiz Kahraman Beyoğlu, Istanbul
Photography Collection Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi
.
SIBA 3397
Automatic bar, Beyoğlu,
Istanbul 1932
SIBA 3513
Namık Görgüç:
Drinking ‘rakı’ in a mediocre
‘meyhane’, Balat,
Istanbul 1931

Panel II
Svetozar Grdijan: Field hockey at the Horse races, Ankara
Two sunbathers sitting under Fenerbahçe Stadium, Cengiz Kahraman
the Zemun Bridge, Belgrade Istanbul 1933 Photography Collection
Borba Fotodokumentacija Cengiz Kahraman
SIBA 4983
SIBA 1218
At the hippodrome, Sarajevo
SIBA 1190
Dancing at a ball, probably on Mehmed A. Akšamija
New Year‘s Eve, Istanbul, late Swimming competition, Photography Collection
1930s Ankara
SIBA 1249 SIBA 1103

Jazz at the Cafe Football game, Ankara vs.
Santan, Istanbul Eskişehir Spor, Ankara 1933
SIBA 4931
The Hurijet Tambura
Orchestra, Sarajevo
Mehmed A. Akšamija

Panel III
Cebeci çayırı Two thightrope walkers in Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
fairground, Ankara Küçük Ayasofya Mahallesi, Fun at the Voždovac
Ankara Büyükşehir Fatih, Istanbul, around 1930 Church fair, Belgrade
Belediyesi Collection Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi Politika Dokumentacija

Musicians at the Ankara Svetozar Grdijan: Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
Peoples Games The obese German performer ‘Zurna’ and ‘davul’ players at a
Cengiz Kahraman ‘Fat Rozika‘, seated, fair, Belgrade
Photography Collection Belgrade 1929 Politika Dokumentacija
SIBA 5451 SIBA 1097
SIBA 4809
Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Turkish Folk Dancers at the
Accordion players at the fair Aca Simić: Ankara Peoples Games
in Rakovica, near Belgrade Fairground, Belgrade Cengiz Kahraman
Politika Dokumentacija Muzej Primenjene Umetnosti Photography Collection

Panel IV
Namık Görgüç: Carrying the ‘kurban‘, Sarajevo Alija M. Akšamija:
Ramadan musicians collecting Mehmed A. Akšamija Funeral procession in
money, Istanbul 1930 Photography Collection Sargadžije, Sarajevo 1939
Cengiz Kahraman Mehmed A. Akšamija
SIBA 5413
SIBA 4062 SIBA 4078
The ‘slava‘ of St. George,
Svetozar Grdijan: Belgrade Svetozar Grdijan:
‘Slava‘ ceremony of the Politika Dokumentacija Old woman sitting on a grave,
colonial merchants, Belgrade Belgrade
1929 Borba Fotodokumentacija
Borba Fotodokumentacija SIBA 1084
Funeral procession, Ankara
SIBA 4957
Cengiz Kahraman
SIBA 4387
Photography Collection Mourning the dead, Sarajevo
Wedding procession, Sarajevo Mehmed A. Akšamija
Historijski Arhiv Sarajevo Photography Collection

V. The Bazaar: an Urban Meeting Point
The bazaar (Turkish: çarşı; Bosnian/Serbian: čaršija) was the social and
economic heart of any Ottoman town and remained the meeting point
of a city‘s population in post-Ottoman times. It was the place to do
business and exchange news, if possible along with a cup of coffee or
tea in the kahvehane (Turkish) or kafana/kahva (Bosnian/Serbian). In
the bazaar, artisans and tailors maintained their boutiques, peasants
from the surroundings sold groceries and livestock, and day labourers
waited for work. In the bazaar, the prevalence of child labour and
general poverty were clearly visible.
In Belgrade, the national government removed the bazaar in the
course of the reconstruction of the old town in the 1860s. The new
city centre was organized around the elegant Prince Mihailo Street.
In 1926, the old marketplace (today: Studentski Trg) moved to new
buildings at Zeleni Venac. In Sarajevo, the Habsburg administration
sanitized the Baščaršija area and equipped it with paving tiles.
 V.III SIBA 3066

Panel I
‘Simit’ seller reading a Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
newspaper, Istanbul 1930s Selling fish next to Yeni ‘Boza’ seller with customer,
Cengiz Kahraman Mosque, Istanbul Galata Bridge, Istanbul
Photography Collection Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi

Svetozar Grdijan: Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Svetozar Grdijan:
Boy selling ‘simit’ bagels, Fish sellers at Zeleni Venac Selling watermelons at the
Belgrade Market, Belgrade 1930 Sava port, Belgrade
Borba Fotodokumentacija Politika Dokumentacija Borba Fotodokumentacija

Chatting plea writers near Aca Simić: Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, A ratter‘s haul of the day at Laughing shoe shiner,
late 1920s the Old Market, Belgrade Istanbul, ca. 1930
Cengiz Kahraman 1926 Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi
Photography Collection Politika Dokumentacija
SIBA 1144
Namık Görgüç:
Flower seller, 1925
Cengiz Kahraman

Panel II
Market next to the Ankara Measuring grain, Sarajevo Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
citadel, 1930s Mehmed A. Akšamija View of Zeleni Venac Market
Cengiz Kahraman Photography Collection Politika Dokumentacija
SIBA 4211 SIBA 2138
SIBA 5358
Svetozar Grdijan: Jean Weinberg:
Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Cheesemaker at Camel drivers, Ankara
Street market in old Belgrade a Belgrade market Ankara Büyükşehir
(probably Jovanova Pijaca) Borba Fotodokumentacija Belediyesi Collection
SIBA 5029 SIBA 5034
SIBA 1167
Preparing ‘somun‘ bread in a Selling hay in Kovači, Sarajevo
Market scene in the Ankara bakery shop, Sarajevo Mehmed A. Akšamija
old town, probably Can Sokak, Mehmed A. Akšamija Photography Collection
1930s Photography Collection
Cengiz Kahraman

Panel III
Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Sarajevo tradesmen Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz:
Shopkeeper trying to attract a Mehmed A. Akšamija Three Roma transporting
customer, Istanbul 1935 Photography Collection a family of goats near the
Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi Egyptian Market, Istanbul,
1930s
SIBA 1176 Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi
SIBA 5056
Jean Weinberg:
Bosniak lady customer in a A cobbler‘s shop, Ankara,
SIBA 5356
fabric shop, Sarajevo probably 1923
Mehmed A. Akšamija Cengiz Kahraman Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
Photography Collection Photography Collection Street market, Belgrade
SIBA 5364 SIBA 4914
SIBA 5058
Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Orthodox peasant woman in a
Selling shoes in Zeleni Venac fabric shop, Sarajevo Selecting dried
Market, Belgrade, ca. 1930 Mehmed A. Akšamija mutton, Sarajevo
Politika Dokumentacija Photography Collection Mehmed A. Akšamija
SIBA 1151
Holiday shopping at Mahmut
Paşa, Istanbul
Cengiz Kahraman

Panel IV
Namık Görgüç/Selahattin Giz: Alija M. Akšamija: Alija M. Akšamija:
The three Mehmeds, Day labourers resting in front Day labourers sitting on a
Istanbul 1931 of a coffee house, Sarajevo lawn, Sarajevo 1938
Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi 1938 Mehmed A. Akšamija
Mehmed A. Akšamija Photography Collection
SIBA 4175
SIBA 5388
Svetozar Grdijan:
SIBA 1288
Boy shoeshiners Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
Borba Fotodokumentacija Jean Weinberg: Albanian construction workers
Mobile plea writers with – kaldrmaši – in Belgrade
customers, Ankara, ca. 1925 Politika Dokumentacija
SIBA 5381 VEKAM Vehbi Koç Ve
Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: Araştırmaları Merkezi, Ankara
SIBA 5387
Roma woman and two boys
posing with wooden items Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
SIBA 5415
for sale, Belgrade Workers queuing for
Politika Dokumentacija Aca Simić/Raka Ruben: employment, Belgrade, 1930s
Peasant couple passing by the Politika Dokumentacija
Mala Slavija coffeehouse
SIBA 4821 Politika Dokumentacija
Svetozar Grdijan:
‘Boza’ sellers at the Old
SIBA 5336
Market, Belgrade 1926
Borba Fotodokumentacija Aca Simić/Raka Ruben:
Community kitchen, Belgrade

Impressum
Project leader and exhibition curator: In cooperation with:

Nataša Mišković, University of Basel Ankara Büyükşehir Belediyesi
Ankara Milli Kütüphane
Scientific collaborators: Biblioteka grada Beograda
Katarina Živanović, Museum of Yugoslavia Bilgi Üniversitesi,
Mehmed A. Akšamija, Sarajevo Edebiyat Fakültesi Arşivi, Istanbul
Selen Etingü, University of Basel Borba Fotodokumentacija, Beograd
Joël László, University of Basel Bošnjački institut, Sarajevo
Yorick Tanner, University of Basel Cengiz Kahraman, Istanbul
Author of texts: Cumhuriyet Gazetesi Arşivi, Istanbul
Nataša Mišković, University of Basel Historijski arhiv Sarajevo
Mehmed A. Akšamija, Sarajevo
Art direction: Miloš Jurišić, Beograd
Mehmed A. Akšamija, Sarajevo Muzej Pozorišne Umetnosti, Beograd
Exhibition design and production: Muzej Primenjene Umetnosti, Beograd
Igor Stepančić, blueprint.rs Muzej Sarajeva
Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd
Graphic design: Politika Dokumentacija, Beograd
Irena Stepančić, blueprint.rs Saadet Özen, Istanbul
Coordination: VEKAM Vehbi Koç Ve
Nataša Mišković, University of Basel Araştırmaları Merkezi, Ankara
Igor Stepančić, blueprint.rs Yapı Kredi Tarih Arşivi, Istanbul
Katarina Živanović, Museum of Yugoslavia Zafer Toprak, Istanbul
Research collaborators:
Joël László, University of Basel Translation into Serbian:
Milanka Matić, University of Basel Olivera Durbaba, Belgrade
Yorick Tanner, University of Basel
English language editing:
Mehmed A. Akšamija, Sarajevo Karin Taylor, Zagreb
Cengiz Kahraman, Istanbul
Ranka Gašić, Belgrade Printing of photographic reproductions:
Kristina Ilić, Zagreb DHLab, University of Basel
Printing of guide:
DMD štamparija
II.I SIBA 4022

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CITIES ON THE MOVE

Ankara, Belgrade, Istanbul and Sarajevo

7 September 2017 to 28 January 2018

Historical Museum of Serbia

Project leader and exhibition curator:

The images presented in this exhibition provide unexpected insights into

The photographs are grouped accordingly, to cover five topics:

1. The City Centre; p. 9

2 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

Sarajevo photography professor Mehmed A. Akšamija and Istanbul photo histo-

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 3

future Gençlik Park

King Peter Street (old bazaar)

Kalemegdan Knez Mihailo Street

Old Market (Studentski trg)

Zemun Bridge Terazije

King Aleksandar (Titova) Street

 I.V SIBA 1195

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 9

10 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 11

12 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 13

I.III SIBA 4013 

14 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

 II.III SIBA 4826

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 17

18 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 19

20 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 21

II.II SIBA 4178 

22 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

Dress is a marker of social belonging. In Turkey and Yugoslavia, as

 III.V SIBA 1324

SIBA 1069 SIBA 4867

26 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 27

28 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 29

III.III SIBA 5119 

30 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

National modernity introduced new forms of entertainment to Turkish

 IV.III SIBA 5456

SIBA 1281 SIBA 3312

34 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

SIBA 1249 SIBA 1103

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 35

SIBA 1093 SIBA 4007 SIBA 5454

36 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 37

 V.III SIBA 3066

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 39

SIBA 4015 SIBA 5353 SIBA 4089

SIBA 1108 SIBA 5351 SIBA 3256

40 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 41

42 CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN

CITIES ON THE MOVE – POST-OTTOMAN 43

Project leader and exhibition curator: In cooperation with:

II.I SIBA 4022

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