Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
andonella / dolores del río basado en ‘journey to fear’ / 1942 * fondo: imagen de mercado de pulgas 40’s
1
producción
trendo.mx
mextilo
investigación y diseño
gustavo prado
ilustraciones
andonella
traducción
ai google translate
mextilo film
zeón
alberto limón
diego espinosa
herminio tovar
jj cortés
andonella
fondeo
norman müller
rené serrano
fanny villiers
eduardo súarez
trendo.mx vlogs
daniel obregón
jj cortes
zeon
perros
macario & ofelia
Esta obra es para educar y compartir / se vende para recuperar el costo de impresión y distribución / sin fines de lucro -please,
es un libro :s- / si es que hubiera ganancia, ésta se dedicará al 100% en proyectos de difusión de la moda joven mexicana /
todo mundo es libre de: exhibir, prestar y presentar esta obra / es una obra didáctica, educa, la cultura es libre / compártelo!
/ por favor!!! busca en él tu vocación...
puedes hacer obras derivativas de Mextilo siempre y cuando: CITES -porque es lo justo- y atribuyas el trabajo
OJO: la extensión de esta licencia sólo abarca las ideas, contexto y conclusiones de mextilo,
NO AUTORIZA el uso de obras de terceros, autores de moda, autores fotográficos y gráficos (no te fusiles a andonella)
No permite fines comerciales (no te imprimas playeras con el diseño de las páginas)
esta es una obra que conforme al artículo 147 de la ley de derecho de autor, se considera de utilidad pública, necesaria para
el adelanto de la cultura y la educación nacionales realizada con fines de investigación y difusión de las artes y los diseños.
Si alteras, transformas o construyes desde esta obra, deberás distribuir la obra sólo con una licencia idéntica a esta.
abril de 2017, mil ocho mil ejemplares más sobrantes para reposición orgullosamente impreso en méxico en león, gto.
creative commons / atribution / derivative non profit / derivative / share
memoria de la moda mexicana
Gustavo Prado
ilustraciones x Andonella
vicente riva palacio / méxico a través de los siglos / portadilla / 1884 / colección trendo.mx
6
On one of my many trips to Mexico City, I was having
a chat with Gustavo Prado a few days before a return
flight to Paris.
Not only Mexicans but people all around the world were
in need of a definitive compendium.
Unbeknownst to me at the time, I had planted a seed with
Gustavo that grew into a momentous research fuelled by
the desire to educate and nourish us on the history of
Mexican fashion.
Gustavo understood that every nation needs to know
its roots and, without an understanding of its costume
MEXTILO
D
Andonella en las ilustraciones. Con el
objetivo final de subirlo a youtube, para
urante muchos años fui maestro. que no fuera un documento estático,
gustavo prado / mextilo / andonella / el cartel de la película / museo franz mayer, dentro de asvoff mx / 2014
Pero en los salones de clase, sino accesible para siempre. Acabó
solo se puede educar a un puñado de siendo una película en toda la regla,
alumnos. En 2014 diane pernet - la
gran dama del fashion film mundial-, mi
presentándose en París en el asvoff 8,
madrina y mi inspiración, me preguntó: y en foros y festivales en todo México.
12 13
alessandro bo / sin título de la serie retratos / 2015
14
federico gama / mazahuacholoskatopunk / 2009
15
Ninguna moda de ningún país
se trata sólo de la ropa, son historias
acerca de imaginarios e identidades.
En la segunda década Vicios que causan esta situación:
del siglo XXI la moda
mexicana está en una • costurera-rtista: el diseñador que cree que lo
encrucijada. importante es expresarse / no puede pasar de la
producción mínima a la escala de producción en
Por un lado por fin, serie / no entiende al consumidor
existen estructuras:
• no hago marca, hago caprichos: no se entiende a la
• escuelas de moda a moda como parte de un sistema aspiracional / las
nivel licenciatura marcas no crean imaginarios de consumo masivo
• cámaras industriales
• una gran producción • mi marca es para segmento A: marcas que pretenden
textil -entre las 10 ser de lujo, en una economía donde el consumidor
generadoras de riqueza prefiere por un lado la marca extranjera de ‘lujo
en el país- masivo’, y por otro la gran masa escoge la moda más
• una ‘clase media’ en barata posible
construcción/expansión
• gentrificación urbana • estoy salvando a los artesanos: buscando una
que busca expresarse en identidad inasible / confunde el folklorismo con la
el vestido tradición. Y olvida que cuatro años de diseño, no
• un sistema de articulan conocimientos milenarios
apreciación del diseño
que abarca bazares, • la moda no es artesanía: en el laberinto de lo
congresos, revistas, ‘mexicano’, se pierden rescatando un pasado
federico gama / escondido /mazahuacholoskatopunk / 2005
-¿Q
BANH MI GLUTEN-FREE. cholos
YOLO. pero
PABST AF desconocen
JIANBING los CHARCOAL
rituales de esas
NEXTbandas.
LEVEL, Se
MAN BRAID EVERYDAY CA- consideran
CRAFT skatos pero
BEER BUSHWICK, VHSno saben
TRUFFAUTel significado
QUINOA de esta
MIGAS
RRY KALE CHIPS, HEIRLOOM HEALTH GOTH palabra. Son punksMICRODOSING
XOXO SKA- sin ideología...’
STUMPTOWN.
FAP CRAY BIODIESEL BANJO TEBOARD CRONUT SCHLITZ GODARD SUBWAY TILE
NEUTRA JIANBING. POKE uiénes SCENESTER YR INTELLIGENT- NARWHAL VHS SCHLITZ CRO-
son estos muchachos?
COLD-PRESSED SCENESTER SIA. ‘Los indios de México...’, ‘nuestra artesanía’,
NUT.
¿son urbanos, son rurales?
PBR&B LOCAVORE, LETTER- ‘nuestras tradiciones’. Son las frases comunes y colonialistas
¿violentos o pacíficos?
PRESS BANJO HOODIE HOT que le enjaretan
MEDITATION a una parte deMAN
HELVETICA la población la obligación
BRAID TUMBLR VE-
CHICKEN HUMBLEBRAG. de guardar las tradiciones
MESSENGER BAG UGH BIT- de todos
GAN, GREEN JUICE GEN-por
los demás, dichas
Contestar esta pregunta nos aquellos, que desde arriba, desde lo blanco y civilizado,
MUMBLECORE HEALTH GOTH TERS. KINFOLK CHIA FAP, TRIFY HELL OF BANH MI
ayudaría a saber quienes dictan el discurso. #tanblanco #aburreme #tanfresa
DIY HELVETICA. RAW DENIM FREEGAN WAYFARERS SELVA- EVERYDAY CARRY MICRO-
somos todos en esa identidad
THUNDERCATS
inasible deKOGI VAPE
lo mexicano. GE DISRUPT PABST UMAMI LA DOSING MARFA DISTILLERY
¿Qué sucede cuando esa población autóctona se viste de
YOU PROBABLY HAVEN’T CROIX. HASHTAG HUMBLE-
punk? ¿cúal tradición se guardaWAISTCOAT
cuando lasHEALTH GOTH
identidades, y
HEARD EnOF elTHEM,
sigloVEXILLOLO-
XXI, como BRAG SHOREDITCH, LA CROIX PBR&B. STUMPTOWN ECHO
por ende la moda, no son monolitos sino gases en continua
GIST ASYMMETRICAL
resultado de un boom PABST
en la LITERALLY AUSTIN TUMBLR
transformación? PARK CLICHE, XOXO SCENES-
federico gama / mazahuacholoskatopunk / no se pase de v... profe / 2005 / cortesía federico gama
POST-IRONIC SALVIA FRAN-
construcción en ciudad de KITSCH PITCHFORK ECHO TER NORMCORE BROOKLYN
ZEN TOUSLED
México, jóvenesMAN BRAID
inmigrantes Al estudiar diseño de moda, teHELL
PARK FINGERSTACHE. DREA- OF LYFT
enseñan BUSHWICK.
el patronaje básico
PITCHFORK. SARTORIAL
de la Sierra Oaxaqueña MCATCHER
de la usanzaFOOD TRUCK pero seJEAN
occidental, SHORTSel
desconoce AESTHETIC
patronaje
TILDE TUMERIC
emigraron READYMADE
a la capital. POP-UP LOCAVORE
indígena. Las marcas COPPER
usan comoCOLORING
herramienta BOOK, DISTILLERY
de venta y
MASTER CLEANSE, TATTOOED MUG. HELVETICA MUM- LOCAVORE AUTHENTIC
mercadotecnia la tradición: pero sólo en aplicaciones y
POUTINETradicionalmente
HUMBLEBRAG AF el BLECORE ENNUI,
bordados que medioHOODIE
recuerdanBLUE BOTTLE
a ciertas FAMusando
etnias, LISTICLEla
dinero que
HEIRLOOM ganaban
SUBWAY TILEcomo STUMPTOWN YOLO PRISM. ETSY. MARFA
mano de obra indígena... peligrosamente confundiendo3 WOLF MOON la
PRISMalbañiles
ICELAND. loPUG
mandaban
MICRO-a SWAG HELVETICA ACTUALLY
explotación con el diseño. BEFORE THEY SOLD OUT,
DOSING susTRUST
comunidades,
FUND STUMP-pero CELIAC IRONY, GREEN JUICE ART PARTY CELIAC SCHLITZ
a partes
TOWN TILDE, iguales LI-
UNICORN entre La patente de validez de ese ‘diseño
RETRO QUINOA CRONUT POK mexicano’
SHOREDITCH es la
HUMBLEBRAG
mimetismo
TERALLY y protección,
PRISM UMAMI MEH capacidad de replicar
POK. MUMBLECORE símbolos WAISTCOAT.
VEGAN y usanzas del pasado BES-
UNICORN
adoptaron
8-BIT NEXT LEVEL. una identidad memorioso del país, pero literalPOKE
PINTEREST, GASTROPUB en elCRAY
tenor que canta:
LITERALLY, YOU
inventada tomando BROOKLYN LOMO 3 WOLF PROBABLY HAVEN’T HEARD
elementos
GOCHUJANG CHAMBRAY de aquellas MOON CHARTREUSE Mas si SEITAN. OF THEM
osare un extraño FORAGE ROOF
enemigo
cosas que les
VEXILLOLOGIST, parecieron
VAPE PARTY WOKE
profanar con su planta tu suelo, OCCUPY UGH.
SCHLITZ LOCAVORE ROOF de
útiles de las imágenes RACLETTE AESTHETIC VICE querida!
piensa ¡oh Patria SNACKWAVE
que elNARWHAL
cielo
la contracultura
PARTY. TOUSLED MEG-urbana, SCHLITZ, PICKLED WILLIAM- LIVE-EDGE,
un soldado en cada hijo te dió. PORTLAND MEH
convirtiéndose
GINGS CELIAC, HELVETICA en una SBURG DISRUPT UGH. OFFAL DIY BEARD PALEO LA CROIX
especie de punks...
AUTHENTIC EVERYDAY pero
CA-con 3 WOLF MOON HOT CHIC- VIRAL. SEMIOTICS VENMO
música de
RRY MIXTAPE. MIXTAPE POKbanda. En
KENdonde basta con
GLUTEN-FREE que un diseñador
ARTISAN, VEGAN extranjero
PLAID BESPOKEvoltee a
CHI-
POK MAN BUN POLAROID. ver lo mexicano
LETTERPRESS y lo FOUR
BEARD tome como inspiración, para que las
LLWAVE.
TUMBLRFederico Gama
ACTUALLY a la vez
CORN- llamas del escándalo
DOLLAR TOAST FRANZEN. mediático se prendan...
fotógrafo
HOLE, y antropólogo
PRISM OCCUPY KITSCH ENNUI BICYCLE RIGHTS 90’S CLICHE TYPEWRITER BLOG,
piensa en
COPPER MUG WHATEVER juventud y Pero ¿qué sucede
INTELLIGENTSIA ART PARTY, cuando esa población
VINYL autóctona
BANJO ORGANIC
contracultura
MLKSHK a partir de
FARM-TO-TABLE se viste de punk?
HUMBLEBRAG ¿cúal tradición
CHARTREUSE se guarda
IPHONE cuando
SELFIES CRAYlasCHIA.
CELIAC PALEO RAMPS Su
la observación. HE-libro identidades y las modas están cuestionadas
PLAID. CORNHOLE BIODIESEL NARWHAL OFFAL MUMBLE- más que nunca?
‘mazahuacholoskatopunk‘
LLA. BROOKLYN FANNY PACK Cuantimás
CHAMBRAY,que YOLO esto sucede desde
HELVETICA COREel KICKSTARTER,
propio MéxicoCHICHA-
otrora
de 2009 dice:
KALE CHIPS FRANZEN, SNAC-
profundo, hoy global y universal.
POUR-OVER XOXO EVERYDAY RRONES SYNTH 8-BIT POP-UP.
KWAVE SKATEBOARD POKE CARRY GLOSSIER TRY-HARD MASTER CLEANSE TOTE BAG
19
¿Qué es lo Mexicano?
Las modelos fantasmales
parecen calaveras catrinas.
Tropo que desde
videojuegos hasta películas
animadas, se pierde en
la fascinación por la
En el mundo, México es una continua fuente de fascinación de los mexicanos
inspiración... venga de ejemplo: con la muerte.
kenzo OI 11/12: Al fondo, un telón con una guitarra ‘vestidos blancos que
dibujada, que igual suena en la música de fondo. Café recuerdan las fiestas de
y tierras en el colorido: es el paisaje desértico. Botas quinceañera, el cádaver
vaqueras para caminar por tierra seca, mujeres altivas con de la novia, y si quieres
la fuerza y aplomo de las mexicanas del norte. verlo a través de un cristal
verdaderamente oscuro, el
La colección sin ser obviamente me - xi - ca - na, es fantasma de las víctimas de las
identificable y evocadora. Antonio Marras el diseñador, guerras del cartel de Juárez...’
entiende el ‘world culture’ conservando la tradición
y dejando de lado el folklore, lo que además es una Las hermanas Mulleavy
característica de la marca Kenzo. Y es un gran problema de no estudiaron moda, una
la moda mexicana: no tenemos idea de cómo hacer diseño hizo historia del arte, la
mexicano sin dejar de ser folklóricos. otra inglés y con sus raíces
mexicanas usaron el apellido
En la moda del mundo las causas sociales, la violencia de su mamá como marca:
e injusticia son siempre temas a explorar: alexander Rodarte...
mcqueen en 1995 con su colección ‘Highland Rape’ hacía
una declaración acerca de la situación política de su país, Disruptivas, eligieron
uno entre incontables ejemplos. un tema extraño... y en
ese momento pusieron en
Del #nosfaltan43 al #yosoy132, la moda mexicana llamas a la prensa mexicana
evita temas controversiales. En la imposibilidad de articular que se dió vuelo: que si era
conceptos propios mira espejismos lejanos una falta de respeto ante
Inspiration or plagiarism?
Mexicans seeks reparations for french designers look alike blouse
Y la pregunta que surge es si kitsch, sin tomar en cuenta las Cuando en las escuelas sólo en el terreno de la moda
construimos un muro en el que sólo necesidades y expectativas del se enseña costura, se crea un mexicana no existen fuentes,
reciclamos el pasado porque ‘es nuestro’, mercado masivo en México, vacío conceptual que busca no hay historias trazadas
cómo podemos innovar. más allá de los folklorismos llenarse de ‘algo’. que podamos retrazar, pero
que se buscan en el México Ante la falta de conceptos, resulta que es un camino que
Marcas mexicanas serias como que se ve desde el extranjero. la idea de un pasado glorioso, si está planteado sólo que es
lydia lavin han tomado la idea de la intocable, conocible a través desconocido...
tradición para replantear un diseño Ahora, con otra perspectiva, de la artesanía, crea una
contemporáneo, pero con raíces. Hecho la marca Sacrifice de Chris máquina de movimiento Mextilo
con seriedad y compromiso social Cruz articula protestas perpetuo que cree que
uniendo producción, conocimiento de callejeras articulando un la respuesta está en la
técnicas artesanales y comercio justo. ícono contemporáneo: ‘identidad’.
22 23
ana york / sacrifice / chris cruz / otoño invierno / 2014 *25, 57, & 85 vicente riva palacio / méxico a través de los siglos / portadilla / 1884 / colección trendo.mx
24
26
saturnino herrán / nuestros dioses / 1915 / secretaría de cultura * andonella / el azteca / 2015
27-29 / antonio peñafiel / indumentaria antigua mexicana armas vestidos guerreros y civiles de los antiguos mexicanos / 1903 / colección trendo.mx
27
28 29
Indumentaria Antigua Mexicana
Auguste Racinet fue un estudioso francés que en 1876, publicó
‘Le costume historique’. El siglo xix era el de las grandes conquistas y con ese espíritu
colonial, la orden del día era voltear al exotismo de pueblos lejanos y encontrar en sus
rarezas motivos de realce de lo civilizado de unos, vs. el barbarismo de otros.
Todo el siglo XX fue un zig-zag que define la historia del arte mexicano: rebotando
entre lo nacionalista y lo extranjerizante (326-331). Una discusión que empezó en
la alta cultura pero que será el tema de los pioneros Valdiosera, Valdés Peza y
Chatillon, (234) cuando discutían si era preferible una moda nacionalista, o una
basada en los patrones de Francia o en los de los Estados Unidos.
32
gabriel fernández ledesma / calzado mexicano - cactlis y huaraches / 1930 / colección trendo.mx
33
Su enfoque es al mismo tiende sólo a mostrar la
tiempo histórico y épico en transformación de la plástica
la descripción de personajes, del calzado mexicano,
pero sin llegar a ser valiéndose especialmente de
antropológico. comparaciones gráficas de
En 200 páginas, el libro está la época precortesiana a la
dividido en texto, sección de época actual y sin que exista
litografías a color y final con propiamente el deseo de
impresiones monócromas de hacer historia.’
la realeza prehispánica.
Un siglo después carla
Gabriel Fernández Ledesma fernández es una diseñadora
en su calzado mexicano de moda que viene de un
cactlis y huaraches caldo de cultivo diferente
de 1930, editado por la al de los demás diseñadores:
Secretaría de Educación su padre estaba a cargo
3
Pública (33-35) hace de los museos del Inah
contrastes con otras y viajando juntos, desde
carla fernández / el manual de la diseñadora descalza / 2014 / colección trendo.mx / cortesía carla fernández
culturas, toma palabras del niña fue reconociendo la
imaginario popular en un vestimenta indígena de
colofón de refranes acerca cada zona, para después
del zapato, interpreta adquirirla y mezclarla con
las piezas prehispánicas su ropa contemporánea. ‘De
...
en dibujos y grabados, estas dos modas, la indígena
volviéndolo un documento y la occidental, yo creaba mi
ameno y hasta simpático. propio estilo’ nos comenta
perspectivas Tres décadas
en ‘el manual de la
diseñadora descalza’ (37),
separan ambos estudios, su libro de 2013.
pero no podrían ser más
diferentes: uno es la mirada El haber estudiado Historia
científica del porfiriato del Arte, le permitió
y el segundo, aunque mezclar referentes artísticos
‘El lienzo de Tlaxcalla’ [...] posterior a la renuncia de y entender las estrategias
no es propiamente un lienzo. José Vasconcelos a la SEP del mundo del arte para
Es un volumen en folio de en 1924, es partícipe de construir imaginarios en sus
sesenta y siete centímetros una revisión del pasado de colecciones, y para hacer
de ancho por cuarenta y México al grito de ‘por mi la diseñadora descalza: un
siete de alto, compuesto de raza hablará el espíritu’. manual para desaprender
ochenta y seis hojas... En la que por supuesto el en 2016, una exhibición de
vestido tradicional también moda en el Museo Jumex de
Así es como está escrito estaba siendo revalorado. la CDMX.
‘i ndumentaria a ntigua ’ El libro concluye diciendo:
(28-29) en el lenguaje Carla nos recuerda que
de Peñafiel, una larga ‘La bibliografía sobre este en México se enseña el
enumeración que no asunto es tan escasa, que patronaje occidental y
interpreta, sino sólo muy pocas son las notas luego se ponen detalles
describe. Se lee como sobre el calzado mexicano tradicionales, pero la
una de las listas de tributo que haya podido consultar. cuestión es que la ropa
registradas en Por otra parte, la índole de indígena es diferente como
los códices. esta pequeña monografía concepto.
36
carla fernández /primavera verano / 2015
38
carla fernández / primavera verano / 2015
39
sastreado vs. geométrico
diferencias entre la indumentaria indígena indumentaria sastreada
claudio linati / trajes civiles, religiosos y militares de méxico / 1828 / retrato de moctetzouma xocotzin dernier emperour / colección trendo.mx
codos yardas
la silueta es geométrica ajustada al cuerpo
se mide con hilos reglas
costuras hechas a mano hechas a máquina
cortes rectos curvos
se cierra con nudos y fajas botones y cierres
cortes sin cortes o se rasga la tela uso de tijeras
ramón valdiosera berman / 3000 años de moda mexicana / 1992 / colección trendo.mx /cortesía del maestro ramón valdiosera
propio en el vestido. Además realizó una veintena de libros. En 1992 publicó
3000 años de moda mexicana (43-45). Obra finalizada en junio de 1969, pero
por la que pasaron 23 años hasta que la Cámara Nacional de la Industria
del vestido tomara el proyecto con un tiraje de 4000 ejemplares.
Con 312 páginas, es un texto pionero acerca del tema en México. En un eco a
las autobiografías de Poiret, Schiaparelli y Dior, Valdiosera describe desde su
experiencia el mundo de la moda que le tocó vivir, sumado a un exhaustivo
recuento antropológico donde los usos y costumbres por momentos se
confunden con la moda. ¿Cuál es moda?, ¿cuál es historia?, ¿cómo construyen
juntas identidad? -o sea el tema completo de la moda mexicana.
Para quién busque en sus páginas todas las respuestas, es una monografía
del maestro Valdiosera y su visión acerca del pasado de México. Organiza
la información de acuerdo al origen étnico: teotihuacanos, zapotecas,
mayas, toltecas, aztecas. Continúa por la historia de México, colonia,
revolución, regresando a la perspectiva del mundo indígena actual. Y
focaliza mayormente en su propia historia, en su propia promesa y en la
contundencia de su peso.
tilmatli Sinónimo ayatl, que pasó al español como tilma y ayate. Era una
pieza de tela cuadrada hecha de algodón o ixtle de manta cruda. Tan
grande como para tapar el cuerpo del hombre pero dejando bastante al
desnudo. Era multiusos, cobijo durante la noche, o usado para envolver
y cargar cosas. En las clases altas: tlamachayatl, de colores y con realce
de plumas a diferencia de la tilma del diario que era manta cruda.
quechquemitl Pieza rectangular que se arma para colgarse desde los hombros colgando
sobre el pecho y que después de la conquista se generalizó entre el
vestuario de los pueblos indígenas. Tiene un paralelo con la ‘stola’
que se usaba en bizancio y que evolucionó para convertirse en la pieza
superior de la vestimenta occidental.
huipil El huipil, era igual, una pieza rectangular abierta en el cuello a manera
de blusa y de largo variable, que también puede utilizarse con una falda
de amarre.
Podía usarse como una pequeña tienda metiendo los brazos dentro de
este amplio vestido y quedando protegidos de los moscos, del calor y
el frío. En algunas regiones fue el quechquemitl sustituto del huipil y
en otras solamente la mujer noble lo usaba como distintivo de su rango.
Tenía varias formas de usarse, variando en el cómo envoverlo, servía
además para cargar al niño. Las clases populares tenían descubierto el
busto.
49. casimiro castro / méxico y sus alrededores: vistas, trajes y monumentos / 1855 / colección trendo.mx
producía de la planta siuhquilitl las otomíes y algunas mujeres
y de las flores matlalli, tezotli y de Tenochtitlán que se habían
oxoxouic de donde se hacía toda aficionado a ello.
la gama de azules. El anaranjado
venía del achiyotl que es una Era costumbre sahumarse con
semilla; el rojo salía del palo algunos humos olorosos y andar
del Brasil. El amarillo se obtenía mascando el ‘tzictli’ para limpiar
de un parásito de los árboles, los dientes, que para mayor
el zacatlaxcalli. El negro se elegancia se hacía sonando las
producía del hollín del pino. dentelladas como castañetas.
48
49
covarrubias y tehuanas
El vestido mexicano evolucionó posteriormente en multitud transformado en una visión
de versiones locales. Como ejemplo en la zona del itsmo de del diseño que al mismo
Tehuantepec aparece el traje de las tehuanas. tiempo entendiera los
Es una versión adaptada del antiquísimo huipil, un rectángulo cambios de la sociedad
cortado a la mitad, cosido a los lados, dejando sólo el tamaño mexicana actualizando el
exacto para que pasen los brazos de la usuaria. Se usa con repertorio de prendas, con
forro, y hasta la primera mitad del siglo XX se mantenía ecos del pasado, para que
con un colorido predeterminado: morado obscuro, rojo, fueran contempóraneas sin
escarlata, bermellón. Pocas veces estampado, en algunos casos ser folklóricas, entonces
con puntos, y en ocasiones con patrones de hojas y flores. estaríamos iniciando el camino
Sorprendentemente ‘los materiales de los huipiles provenían de para que nuestra moda
Inglaterra, de los textiles de Manchester, hechos especialmente tuviera una voz diferente
para venderse en el itsmo y en ningún otro lugar. Pero el y reconocible en el coro
52. miguel covarrubias / mexico south / 1947 / colección trendo.mx * andonella /retrato de miguel covarrubias / 2015
mercado luego fue tomado por manufactureras mexicanas, mundial ‘fashionista’.
billete de a $10 pesos / banco de méxico / the american bank note company / 1953 * andonella / tehuana / 2015
aún cuando las tehuanas ancianas, aun buscan los buenos y
tradicionales algodones de Manchester’. En la obra de Cristóbal
balenciaga eso pasa
Todo esto, según Miguel Covarrubias quién publicó en 1946, en continuamente. Si uno lo ve
inglés, el tomo ‘méxico south, the isthmus of tehuantepec’. como alta moda, los milagros
contructivos, las exploraciones
Covarrubias era un creador, interesado por la cultura mexicana. de la forma, el sobrio
Extraordinario dibujante y caricaturista, lo que lo llevó a colorido, están en sintonía y
ilustrar las portadas e interiores del vanity fair en la primera responden a lo que hacía al
mitad del siglo XX. Mexicano universal, su mirada veía desde tiempo el ‘new look’ de Dior.
la isla de Bali, las culturas mexicanas, hasta lo más chic y
cosmopolita de su mundo. ‘imposible conversations’ eran Pero a nosotros como
cartones en los que hacía coincidir en el mismo dibujo a Elsa mexicanos nos sorprende que,
Schiaparelli hablando con Stalin. Al ritmo del jazz dibujó el al profundizar, sus prendas son
Harlem de su época, tal cual lo haría otro protagonista de esta una traducción del repertorio
historia, el Chango García Cabral. (211-217) pictórico español de Goya a
Picasso. Siempre presente el
Observando la evolución del traje de tehuana (54) nos cuenta flamenco y los guiños hacia
cómo desde las figuras prehispánicas se observa el quixquemetl los trajes religiosos. Pero que
y el huipil ‘el eterno femenino del México prehispánico’ (A) siendo ‘tan español’ no se
Y (B). En grabados de ppos. del XIX se observa el busto al siente ni folklórico ni étnico:
aire, aunque con la cabeza velada (C), que se transforma en su lenguaje es universal.
el ‘huipil de tapar’ zoque (D) y de este se convierte en (E) la
versión comercial hecha de encaje confeccionado a máquina.
A 70 años de la perspectiva
Y con versiones variadas del tocado que va tomando la forma de ‘Mexico South’, una
clásica del billete de a $10 pesos de mediados del XX (51) que imagen antropológica de los
en realidad refería a una forma más primitiva del tocado. sesentas, sorprende en su
modernidad: un joven huichol
La perspectiva de Covarrubias es necesaria en la moda mexicana nos contempla retándonos a
contemporánea. Si en vez de apuntar al folklorismo -que en su hacer de su vestimenta una
desconocimiento toma literal elementos artesanales- se buscara propuesta de ropa calle para
establecer líneas de contacto con el pasado, sí, pero el siglo XXI. (56)
50 51
54
miguel covarrubias / mexico south / 1947 / biblioteca trendo.mx 54. evolución del vestido de tehuantepec 55. jóvenes tehuanas llevando flores al santo patrono
55
56
donald cordry / joven huichol /altavista, nayarit / indumentaria mexicana / artes de méxico / 1966 / colección trendo.mx / cortesía margarita de orellana
58
abelardo carrillo y gariel / el vestido en la nueva españa / inah / 1959 / colección trendo.mx
59
E
ra necesario un
milagro para
fundir ambas
culturas de una
manera armoniosa.
-Sincretismo cultural-: El
indio Juan Diego vestido con una
tilma tradicional, encuentra una
imagen de inspiración divina que
porta ropa occidental: la túnica
recuerda una dalmática con
apertura forrada de armiño.
En 1959 dentro de una colección En el siglo XIX, Antonio García Cubas en 1885, ya no habla de castas
del inah, Abelardo Carrillo y en ‘atlas pintoresco e histórico de los estados unidos mexicanos’
Gariel publicó un libro de título pero ‘la raza blanca’ domina sus ilustraciones hasta arriba.
‘el vestido en la nueva españa’, Alrededor tarascos, tzotziles, zoques, zapotecas. Ya no dice ‘indios’
ahí nos comenta: sino ‘mexicanos’. Como indica la gráfica (66), a finales del XIX el país
contaba con 9 millones, de los cuales sólo 2 eran blancos y el resto
‘Ninguna mestiza, mulata o indígenas y mestizos.
negra ande vestida como india,
no de española, so pena de ser En 1994, la fotógrafa mexicana Lourdes Almeida hizo el
presa y que le den cien azotes proyecto de ‘retrato de familia, la nación mexicana’ (67). En
públicamente por las calles y imágenes de todas las regiones del país se captura a familias posando
pague pena de cuatro reales al a su modo. Las familias blancas son las menos, vestidas a la usanza
alguacil que le prendiere y esto occidental. Alrededor desde menonitas, tarahumaras, gente del
se entiende con las mestizas, con norte y del sur, urbanos y rurales muestran la variedad de la ropa que
las mulatas y negras que fueron vestimos los mexicanos, no a partir del ‘traje típico’ sino con la ropa
casadas con indios’. del diario que no es folklore sino cotidianeidad.
64 65
antonio garcía cubas /atlas pintoresco e histórico de los estados unidos mexicanos / carta etnográfica / 1885 / colección trendo.mx
lourdes almeida / retrato de familia. la nación mexicana / 1994 / cortesía lourdes almeida
1. familia victoriano 5. familia kayón
mexicaneros -nahuas-, jornaleros / san pedro lacandones, artesanos /palenque, chiapas / 1992
jícora, durango / 1992 6. familia zago-stefanoni
2. familia durán-martínez blancos, lácteos / chipilo, puebla / 1992
pames, campesinos / tancoyol, querétaro / 1992 7. familia pérez-hernández
3. familia valentín-vargas tzotziles, floricultores / zinacantán, chiapas/ 1992
coras campesinos / jesús maría, nayarit / 1993 8. familia bernal lópez / blancos, profesionistas /
4. familia abraham-reyes mexicali, BC / 1994
otomíes, artesanos / pahuatlán, puebla / 1992 9. familia molina
yaquis, jornaleros / vicam, sonora / 1993
67
criollos & virreyes
A la izquierda, desde el
primer Virrey Dn Antonio de
Mendoza ( f ), destacan las
gorgueras en el cuello que
En la colonia los nacidos en España eran de primera, y los nacidos de van creciendo en tamaño hasta
españoles en México eran de segunda. Los dueños de ese mundo, convertirse en ‘lechuguillas’
con todas las demás castas por debajo. En nuestra memoria cultural y cubriendo totalmente el
cotidianeidad del siglo XXI la misma realidad sigue presente. cuello y enterrando la cara.
Tal cual se ve en el Marqués
La identidad mexicana que hemos visto tanto en Lourdes Almeida de Guadalcázar ( g ), Virrey en
(67) como en Andonella (68), siempre se ve contrastada con la el siglo XVI.
identidad y la moda occidental. Para explorar nuestras identidades
recurrimos a exotismos de estampados de bigotes de Frida, lejos de En la parte inferior de la
nuestra propia -falsa- camaradería de cantina que nos hace soñar columna tres virreyes: el
que somos personajes del cine mexicano de oro. En contraste la Marqués de Mancera, Fray Payo
televisión, las grandes tiendas departamentales y las imágenes de Rivera y el Marqués de la
editoriales de moda nos presentan la imagen de un país-México ideal Laguna (h) coinciden siendo
poblado de gente ‘bonita, bien, blanca y de buenas costumbres’. los mecenas que ayudaron a
Sor Juana a establecerse como
Pero si el libro de Almeida presentaba alrededor de 150 formas la décima musa. Ese tiempo
diferentes de familias mexicanas, en el vestido, en la región y en las coincide con Francia en el
costumbres... entonces ¿por qué en la moda de autor el repertorio es reinado de Louis XIV, lo que se
tan limitado que siempre refiere a las etnias más obvias, a través de ve en los peinados y corbatas de
los básicos más aburridos, con un interés incomprensible por hacer influencia francesa -perruques
vestidos de noche bordados más cursis que vestido de quinceañera? y cravates- que se vuelven aún
más exagerados en la columna
por que desde la colonia nos viene el dictado patriarcal que marca de la derecha, al tiempo de
‘desde arriba’ como se viste ‘la gente decente’. Louis XV y XVI, hasta llegar al
Conde de Revillagigedo (i), en el
En el mundo de la colonia los virreyes, viniendo de allende el mar, tiempo de la revolución francesa,
imponían el patrón de la cultura europea. augurio de los cambios por venir.
Esos siglos del XVI, XVII y XVIII que coinciden con el virreinato de la Nueva España
y la existencia del Barroco en el estilo y el pensamiento, son el crisol donde se
estaba forjando la identidad mexicana como ahora la entendemos.
lydia lavín & gisela balassa / museo del traje mexicano / volúmen III / 2001 / colección trendo.mx / cortesía lydia lavín
‘Baroque’ se decía en portugués a las perlas de forma totalmente irregular, y por
extensión el nombre se le dió a la arquitectura, y hasta el lenguaje plasmado en
la poesía lleno de retruécanos, adornos y florituras.
No sólo era una forma artística cargada per se. Era la manera de expresar el
papel del hombre descubriendo un mundo nuevo, para adorar y servir a Dios.
Las capitales de los virreinatos se convirtieron en los centros de toda la actividad
intelectual y la vida en ellas se impregnó de erudición, ceremonia y artificialidad.
Al tiempo que florecen las gorgueras en los cuellos, el siglo XVII ve la decadencia
del sobrio traje español y se transforma con el lujo de los trajes de la corte
francesa. Las damas que llegaron a la Nueva España venían ataviadas con la
ropa de los 1500: el ‘farthingale’, falda de gran volumen merced a estructuras
de mimbre que le daban realce a los costados, con el torso muy ajustado, pero
aún sin inventarse la estructura del corset decimonónico (73). En el caso de
los hombres el jubón medieval -especie de saco estructurado, especial para
la monta y la batalla- deja de lado para convertirse en las levitas con puños
de gran calado y largo hasta la rodilla, que en las clases altas se usa cuajada
de bordados en hilos de materiales preciosos (74). En las Américas ante la
abundancia de la plata, es muy común ver aplicaciones argentinas en las telas
de ambos sexos.
74
billete de sor juana / $ 1000 pesos / banco de méxico / 1985
75
Es díficil de imaginar que entre nosotros en el futuro y el mundo
prehispánico, existió en el mismo territorio pero a un tiempo diferente la colonia
como un universo en sí mismo. Octavio Paz en ‘Las trampas de la fé’ -recuento de
la época y biografía de Sor Juana- nos dice:
80
81
srita. morales maría dolores / indumentaria mexicana / artes de méxico/ No. 77 - 78 1966 / colección trendo.mx / cortesía margarita de orellana
...en sus puntas, y que se elaboraba con el mismo paño de la casaca; la altura de
los puños se amplía contrastando con las angostas mangas.
El propio cuerpo del texto advierte que si se quiere profundizar hay que
recurrir al tomo del Prof. Abelardo Carrillo y Gariel ‘El traje en la Nueva España’
(58)editado por el Inah en 1959. Este autor que provenía del mundo de las artes,
paradójicamente siendo rico en los datos históricos y culturales es ‘parco’ en las
imágenes y bordea el asunto de la vestimenta sin que sea realmente el eje.
82
84
La Independencia de México fue la consecuencia de un proceso político y
social resuelto por la vía de las armas, que puso fin al dominio español en los
territorios de la Nueva España. La guerra por la Independencia mexicana tuvo
su antecedente en la invasión de Francia a España en 1808 y se extendió desde
el Grito de Dolores, el 16 de septiembre de 1810, hasta la entrada del Ejército
Trigarante a la Ciudad de México, el 27 de septiembre de 1821.
86 87
billete de a $20 pesos / doña josefa ortiz de domínguez / banco de méxico / 1970
88
89
de una mujer que le toca vivir femenina en ‘la quijotita y su prima’ de 1818; un pícaro de origen
la corte y posteriormente el popular -ni tan dandy ni tan diletante-, pero que ya dejaba ver el
cambio que se da a partir de la protipo del joven ocioso (lagartijo) en el ‘periquillo sarniento’ (97);
independencia. hasta llegar a don catrín de la fachenda que tal cual identifica al
‘arreglado’ en su aparencia con la esencia del dandismo.
Como el cambio social se estaba
dando en paralelo de los dos De Francia llegaban las mayores influencias, al triunfo de la
lados del Atlántico la figura revolución francesa la figura de los vencedores -primeros
Napoleónica tiene una fuerte rebeldes de la historia-, fue conocida como ‘les Incroyables & les
influencia en las Américas, se Marvilleuses’ (los Increíbles y las Maravillosas).
importan las modas, los estilos y Caballeros con los pantaloncillos entallados, un peinado de
las ideologías. pequeños rizos que recordaba a una escultura romana conocido
como ‘Titus’. Damas con las ropas vaporosas grecorromanas. Al
En la lucha independentista, momento de llegar estos estilos a México, con un retraso de casi
los héroes, Morelos y el cura una década, no son el uniforme de la rebeldía sino la declaración de
Hidalgo se visten como parte del ruptura con el mundo del pasado.
clero, pero también en el estilo
de una sobriedad, moderna para Luis González Obregón en ‘la vida en méxico en 1810’ (94-96) habla de
ese momento, con levita negra las Currutacas y de los Petimetres (en un francés mal pronunciado a la
que se parece mucho al traje mexicana: Señoritos = petit maitres), personajes para los que la moda era
masculino contemporáneo. simplemente y llanamente la justificación de toda su existencia.
En las primeras dos décadas Para Bernardo Olivares Iriarte, profesor de la Academia de Bellas
del siglo XIX, México pasa Artes de Puebla estaba muy claro que las indecencias en la moda
de flamante territorio habían llegado de la mano de las ideas revolucionarias francesas.
independiente a fugaz imperio e Todo parece indicar que el Túnico francés se llevó en México entre
incipiente república. 1800 y 1824, quizá hasta 1829.
92 93
94-97. luis gonzález y obregón / la vida en méxico en 1810 / 1911 / colección trendo.mx
96
josé joaquín fernández de lizardi / el periquillo sarniento * manuel toussaint / la litografía en méxico / biblioteca nacional / méxico 1934 / colección trendo.mx
O
es característica del traje de los chinos, la contrapartida de las chinas
-poblanas. ‘El lépero, el seminarista, el sereno, la sirvienta indígena’
aparecen descritos en sus páginas. En este tenor:
HACENDADO CRIOLLO PROPIETARIO: En una colonia
como ésta, rica en toda clase de producción y sobre todo en
livares en su metales preciosos, en la que los fundadores han sometido
‘álbum artístico’ de 1876 hace a la esclavitud a los indios, al lado de miles de infelices se
una taxonomía del traje mexicano encuentra un hombre opulento que explota esos brazos
con el título ‘trages conforme vigorosos para vivir en el lujo y la comodidad.
los encontramos en los primeros NOTA: Su capa, llamada manga es una pieza de paño azul o
días de nuestra niñez por el año verde cortada en óvalo y forrada de percal pintado. En medio
de 1823’. Al centro el traje a la tiene un abertura por la que pasa la cabeza. Está bordeada con
europea que en la lámina se un círculo de terciopelo galoneado y adornado con flequillos
conoce como ‘trage de tertulia’, que cubren los hombros. El sombrero de vicuña, ribeteado por
pero además vemos la evolución dentro; la chaqueta, de gamuza, se cierra a manera de blusa.
del vestido en el que el corte ‘de Muestra una camisa de tela muy fina bien plisada al frente. Las
cintura’ bajó del busto al talle, botas son abiertas y dobladas a los lados. (102)
evolución que continuará con el
crecimiento del volumen de la LA JOVEN OBRERA: Sexo encantador, amable mitad del
falda hasta la forma gigantesca género humano, bajo todos los climas de la tierra, por encima
que tomará a mediados del siglo de la ignorancia y de la barbarie. Sin importar bajo qué
XIX. Y que ya están presentes colores ni bajo qué vestido, el dominio de tu gracia extiende
atribuido a josephus arias huerta / la emperatriz ana maría/ esposa de agustín I de méxico / 1822
tanto el rebozo, como la mantilla su bienhechora influencia y hace felices a los hombres,
y un traje de china conviviendo imponiendo una tregua a las pasiones odiosas que los excitan.
con la ropa tradicional de las NOTA: ´la vestimenta es de tela de algodón estampada
clases populares. (100) burdamente en el país, así como la orla. La mantilla o tápalo
es de un tejido de algodón de trama muy cerrada que se
El italiano Claudio Linati llegó llama manta antes de ser teñida. Se fabrica en Puebla de los
a México a fundar la primera Ángeles y también se envía en crudo a Inglaterra, donde
imprenta litográfica . En 1828 después la estampan. (103)
publicó el libro ‘trajes civiles,
religiosos y militares de méxico’
que no sólo retrata en el dibujoCon la independencia la relación con la vieja España había quedado
sino que describe las costumbres maltrecha. La representación que habían tenido siglos de virreyes
de la época y da consejos de cómo estaba en el olvido. Fue hasta que se consumó la gesta y el país
deberían de comportarse las estaba más tranquilo que se pudo establecer un representante,
jóvenes románticas.sólo que ahora era un embajador, Ángel Calderón de la Barca
Retrata el pasado pero también las que en 1839 llegó a México. Pero no venía solo, su esposa era una
clases sociales de ese momento. chica escocesa de nombre Frances Erskine Inglis, primera Marquesa
de Calderón de la Barca que se convirtió en una espectadora
En los roles de esa sociedad extraordinaria de esa sociedad.
se observa que el hombre del
campo, en el traje de faena, ‘la vida en méxico durante una residencia de dos años en ese país’
aún no porta los característicos de 1843, (104-105) es en donde la Marquesa hace un recuento
sombreros gigantescos costumbrista de su estancia en México, primero despotricando de toda
mexicanos; y que la pernera la experiencia pero progresivamente tomándole cariño. Cuenta, que
abierta con volantes de algodón las modas llegaban de París en dos meses. El choque de abandonar la
que tanto asociamos con los vida europea y conocer los modos locales le hacen ser de las primeras
gauchos aún está presente y ‘personas decentes’ en adoptar el traje de ‘china poblana’.
98 99
bernardo olivares / álbum artístico / puebla / 1876
100
101
claudio linati / trajes civiles, religiosos y militares de méxico / 1828 / hacendado criollo propietario / colección trendo.mx
102
103
claudio linati / trajes civiles, religiosos y militares de méxico / 1828 / la joven obrera / colección trendo.mx
104
Mme. Calderón de la Barca tuvo dificultad en reconocer, al principio,
la belleza de la mujer mexicana:
‘la belleza de las mujeres de aquí consiste en los soberbios ojos negros, en el
hermoso cabello oscuro, en la hermosura de brazos y manos y en su pequeño
y bien formado pie. Y sus defectos: que con demasiada frecuencia son de corta
estatura y demasiado gordas, de que sus dientes suelen ser malos, y el color de su
tez no es el olivo pálido de las españolas ni el moreno brillante de las italianas,
sino un amarillo bilioso. Porfían en introducir el pie en un zapato media pulgada
más corto, y arruinan el pie, destruyen su gracia al andar, y, en consecuencia,
el de sus movimientos: Esta moda empieza, por fortuna a caer en desuso’.(104)
Fascinado por la figura de Humboldt, el alemán Carl Nebel publicó en París en 1836.
carl nebel / ‘viaje pintoresco y arqueológico por las partes más interesantes de méxico / parís / 1836 / colección trendo.mx
su ‘ Viaje pintoresco y arqueólogico por las partes más interesantes de México’
Momentos costumbristas se ven reflejados en sus páginas:
106
carl nebel / viaje pintoresco y arqueológico por las partes más interesantes de méxico / parís / 1836 / colección trendo.mx
108
109
carl nebel / ‘viaje pintoresco y arqueológico por las partes más interesantes de méxico / parís / 1836 / colección trendo.mx
carl nebel / viaje pintoresco y arquelógico por las partes más interesantes de méxico / parís / 1836 / colección trendo.mx
110
111
‘Catarina de San Juan: esta princesa del Gran Mogol, llamada en su país Mirra, cayó
cautiva de un pirata a quien la compró un comerciante de Manila, quien la trajo a
Acapulco y á su vez la vendió al Capitán Miguel Sosa, vecino de Puebla [...] quién en
el año de 1683 caminó con ella para llegar a esa ciudad donde luego que llegó hizo
saber a su esclava que quedaba libre y dueña de su voluntad, pero Sosa, que de paso
es bueno advertir, había tratado a la princesa con las consideraciones que merecía su
desgracia y la traía provista de ricas telas y alhajas dispuso que se bautizara lo que se
verificó dándole el nombre de Catarina de San Juan’.
Carreón sugiere que ‘Tal vez en el traje Catarina de San Juan tenga origen
el zangalejo ó castor de la China de Puebla, como le decían. Sedas, aplicaciones,
canutillos, camarones: un traje de gran lujo fue en lo que se convirtió con el tiempo.’
Una tradición del siglo XVII, la de la santona venida de la India en 1683 y muerta en
olor de santidad algún tiempo después. ‘La puntada del coronel prosperó, pese a la
completa falta de lógica: el traje de la china es de finales del XVIII o de principios del
adolfo patiño encontró / china poblana y chino arrecho/ circa. 1940 / colección trendo.mx
XIX, casi dos siglos después de la llegada a Puebla de la pequeña esclava india’.
Estos elementos conforman el símbolo de una nación ávida de articular identidad y que
en el tiempo de la independencia alimentó como símbolo; a grado tal que la falda roja,
la blusa verde, las medias blancas hicieron eco de la bandera.
‘Shortly after came more visits, and just as we had supposed they were all concluded,
and we were going to dinner, we were told that the secretary of state, the ministers of
war and of the interior, and others, were in the drawing-room. And what do you think
was the purport of their visit? To adjure me by all that was most alarming, to discard
the idea of making my appearance in a Poblana dress they assured us that Poblanas
generally were ‘femmes de rien’, that they wore no stockings, and that the wife of the
Spanish minister should by no means assume, even for one evening, such a costume’.
Así ya en pleno siglo XIX, lo de china era un sinónimo que marcaba que eran chicas de
baja sociedad y lo de poblana refería a alguien del pueblo, no de Puebla.
El vestido tenía un área geográfica extendida desde la capital a Guadalajara y hasta
Oaxaca. Para acabar convirtiéndose en un adjetivo claro y universal de lo mexicano.
112 113
casimiro castro et al / méxico y sus alrededores. vistas, trajes y monumentos / colección trendo.mx / 1855 & 1856 * andonella/ china poblana 2015
Una china poblana baila, dejando ver el zig zag de los ‘porabajos’
que se asoman por la falda; sus compañeros de baile ‘chinos’
portan el pantalón de faena... pero traen huaraches. Una
letanía de tipos populares que usaban de mercar en la ciudad,
anunciados por sus pregones, desde el tlachiquero, la vendedora
de chichicuilotes, hasta unos lagartijos vestidos de catrín. Y por
último una escena de mercado, con personajes envueltos con
sarapes y damas cubiertas con rebozo. (114-118)
Manuel Orozco y Berra en el siglo XIX dijo: ‘para llevar bien las
enaguas y el rebozo, se han de menester garbo y gentileza, cuerpo
cortado airosamente, y mucho donaire para cubrirse: quien no sienta
correr por sus venas la sangre calentada con el sol de los trópicos;
quien no posea una imagen meridional, no se vista nunca con ese traje’.
Se muestran vistas áreas del Es interesante que en las ciudades mexicanas del siglo XXI
Valle de México, trazadas desde muchach@s se visten con la ropa del cowboy, desde la camisa hasta
la perspectiva de globos de los jeans. Nadie porta la ropa del chinaco en México ni la del gaucho
Cantolla, y escenas de la ciudad en Argentina... Pero el rebozo se constituyó a tal grado como prenda
y del puerto mostrando la vida mexicana que en las bodas de postín de la sociedad del siglo XXI las
cotidiana del momento. Sras. Ricas traen su rebozo colgado de los brazos.
114 115
casimiro castro et al / méxico y sus alrededores. vistas, trajes y monumentos / 1855 & 1856 / colección trendo.mx
116
117
casimiro castro et al / méxico y sus alrededores. vistas, trajes y monumentos / 1855 & 1856 / colección trendo.mx
casimiro castro et al / méxico y sus alrededores. vistas, trajes y monumentos v/ 1855 & 1856 / colección trendo.mx
118
119
123
manuel toussaint / la litografía en México / biblioteca nacional / méxico 1934 / colección trendo.mx
manuel toussaint / la litografía en méxico / biblioteca nacional / méxico 1934 / colección trendo.mx
vicente munguía / del origen uso y belleza del trage propio de las mexicanas / 1851 / colección trendo.mx
´Pascuala Corona’ era su seudónimo. Vivió casi 100 años, le faltaron tres. Vivió
desde la década del ‘10 en el XX hasta el 20 de enero de 2015. Detrás de ese nombre
-que era en realidad el nombre de su nana-, ella era Teresa Castelló Yturbide. Se
especializó en las artes decorativas de México y escribió por ahí de 30 libros:
el traje indígena, el rebozo, los colorantes naturales de méxico y
‘ La historia de México a través de la Indumentaria’ de 1988,
teniendo como coautores a Virginia Armella de Aspe y a Ignacio Borja Martínez.
Este libro publicado por Inbursa (126) tiene una perspectiva entre colonial y
decimonónica, divide la historia del país en tres rebanadas: el traje militar que le
teresa castelló yturbide, virginia armella de aspe / la historia de méxico a través de la indumentaria / Inbursa / 1988 / colección trendo.mx
toca a Borja, el traje civil a cargo de Virginia Armella y el traje religioso por la propia
Castelló. Pasa rápidamente por lo prehispánico y la conquista, ahonda en la colonia
pero realmente profundiza en el siglo XIX y ahí se para en seco.
De los tres capítulos el más interesante como historia del vestido es el que habla
del traje civil; aunque en una decisión, por lo menos extraña, está ilustrado por fotos
contemporáneas de modelos portando los trajes históricos, - han de ser muchachas
decentes de buenas familias porque son güeritas y aburridas como rebanada de tofú-
situando a las prendas en un anacronismo visual ochentero digno de ‘las flans’.
En México es el auge de las revistas femeninas y proliferan los títulos, ya fuera que se
imprimieran en Europa, se editaran allá y se imprimiesen acá o de plano fueran producción
nacional adaptando materiales extranjeros: El Iris, el Instructor y la Colmena que
publican grabados lo más probablemente ingleses; el Mosaico Mexicano que se publica en
los 1830’s y 40’s, que buscaba la educación del bello sexo y tenía una sección de moda.
En El Museo Mexicano de 1844 se habla del taller de costura de ‘Madame Virginia’, una
francesa instalada en México que dominó la moda mexicana de los 184o’s.
128
luis garcés litografía / el libro de satanás de adolfo isaac alegría / 1869 / colección trendo.mx
‘La señorita’
En 1858, una viajera de nombre María Giovanni, publica de la mano de Alejandro Dumas el
‘Journal de Madame Giovanni: en Australie, aux Iles Marquises, a Taiti, a la Nouvelle-
Caledonie, en Californie et au Mexique’, y como en el caso de Mme. Calderón de la
Barca, da cuenta de la moda de ese tiempo:
-‘Más que nada, casi todas las cosas provienen de tiendas francesas. Encontré
exactamente lo que vería en París en los mejores establecimientos, y las modas no se
tardan mas que un mes en llegar de Francia. Si bien no hay diferencia ni en el lujo ni en
el gusto, no es así con el precio. Por regla general un objeto que cueste un franco en
París cuesta una piastra en México. Así por ejemplo un sombrerete con flor en la oreja
de 25 francos, cuesta 25 piastras... lo que es decir 100 francos. [..] Por lo cual entiendo
que mis encantadores pequeños compatriotas se recreen en los enormes beneficios que
provienen de vender moda y lencería en México’.
Esta fascinación con Plateros -hoy la calle de Madero en el centro histórico de la Cdmx-
viene de que fue la calle de la moda durante décadas. Cerca en 16 de septiembre y
5 de febrero -en ese entonces Portal de Mercaderes y Diputación- estaba, desde 1696,
el Parián: con dos pisos y cerca de 130 establecimientos abarcaba una parte de la
Plaza Mayor. Ahí se compraban las materias primas: las telas, terciopelos, marabúes...
Que se llevaban con los guanteros, zapateros, modistas y confeccionistas de Plateros
en los múltiples pisos. En los techos unos ‘invernaderos’ coronaban esos edificios: los
fotoestudios donde te tomabas la foto con toda la moda, alumbradas por la luz solar.
130 131
132
133
135
133
136
andonella / carlota / 2015 * edith saunders / página de ‘the age of worth’ / 1955 / colección trendo.mx
137
maria amparo clausell / intimidad, moda y diseño. méxico entrañable / 1998 / colección trendo.mx
carl martin edersberg / emperador maximiliano portando lujoso traje de charro / siglo xix
Alguna frontera temporal ha de existir a finales del siglo XIX , desde que la gran
mayoría de los libros de moda reseñados incluyendo a Benítez, Morales, Castelló
Yturbide y Clausell, se paran en seco en la frontera del siglo XX.
En el mismo caso, con el título ‘a la Monsivaís’ de ‘Pudor y liviandad: tres siglos de
moda en México. La colección del Museo Soumaya’ (142) la premisa de este pequeño
catálogo de exposición se queda corta pues se presentan las piezas decimonónicas,
con tan sólo un vestido de flapper de 1920 visto sólo al pasar. En apenas 32 hojas, el
opúsculo contiene prendas y glosario, comentarios acerca de las épocas y un destino
común en todas las obras de moda que es la presencia mayoritaria del traje femenino y
el casi olvido de las prendas de los hombres.
autor anónimo / dolores romero ‘dama de la noche’ de 2nda clase / circa 1865
portaba los mismos estilos, que continuarán hasta el tiempo de Don Porfirio.
Juan Cordero pinta ‘El retrato de las hijas de Manuel Cordero’, da cuenta de un avance
significativo en los estilos (148). Todas visten ropa de colores brillantes y tonos variados.
William Henry Perkin en Inglaterra, había inventado el color malva, como un accidente
buscando una mejor medicina. En 1856 su inventó dio lugar a la industria de las
anilinas, y así el caballero se convirtió en el gran emprendedor del siglo XIX ,
dando pie a una nueva cultura del color en la ropa.
140 141
crestomatía / soumaya slim de romero / pudor y liviandad / 2003
142
manuel toussaint /la litografía en méxico / biblioteca nacional / 1934 / colección trendo.mx + escudo nacional
144
145
enrique fernández ledesma / la gracia de los retratos antiguos / 1950 / colección trendo.mx
146
147
enrique fernández ledesma / la gracia de los retratos antiguos / 1950 / colección trendo.mx
juan cordero / retrato de las hijas de manuel cordero / 1875 * andonella / portada de la moda elegante 2015
148
149
149
El mundo estable del régimen de Porfirio Díaz (154) estaba a punto de ser transformado
no sólo por la revolución mexicana de 191o, sino por los increíbles cambios
tecnológicos que influyeron en nuevas actitudes en el cambio de siglo.
Worth había hecho durante su larga carrera de casi 5o años tres grandes
transformaciones en la silueta. El siglo XX se despierta con una reforma del vestido: las
sufragistas luchaban para liberarse del corset; Amelia Bloomer inventó el pantaloncillo
del mismo nombre, harta de las faldas; el orientalismo trajo consigo la silueta del
kimono. La influencia llegaba a México y las catrinas (152) demuestran que el estilo que
estaba en voga en la Austria de Emilie Flöge -la modista amante de Klimt- se ve en las
ciudades mexicanas con los grandes sombreros. El corte recto aún acorsetado, hace
eco con la forma del pinafore que trae el bebé en la misma imagen, volviéndose casi
un ‘Liberty dress’. El prototipo de la Gibson Girl, la silueta en ‘S’, plantea una estética
diferente de lo que había sido la mujer romántica: ahora era una mujer moderna.
Las fiestas del Centenario de la Independencia son recibidas con una cena alumbrada
por !luz eléctrica!. Don Porfirio busca presentar estilos y celebraciones que intenten
redescubrir el pasado prehispánico. Se habla de un estilo ‘neo-azteca’ en pabellones y
mobiliario. La alta sociedad totalmente afrancesada ve ‘lo mexicano’ con displicencia.
154
155
156
157
Los diseñadores de todo el mundo comprehending bazaars, congresses, absence of concepts!.. / ‘research’ not monoliths but gases in never ending
one editing and directing their own the folklore, which is also a feature of
pueden ahora inspirarse en el magazines, prizes and exhibitions never equals just ‘moodboarding’ transformation? the brand Kenzo. And a big problem of
variado e impresionante pasado sections. And Andonella drawing. ignorance about what has happened When you study fashion design, they
A vibrant textile industry!. But Mexican fashion: we have no idea how
de moda de México. Sin embargo, when we talk about the survival of in the history of Mexican fashion teach you the basic pattern of Western to do Mexican design avoiding the folk,
lo más importante de todo será la The result, uploaded in youtube, fashion, but the Indian patronage is the kitsch and the ‘camp’.
will be accessible forever. It ended independent fashion designers, in
contribución de este libro al futuro unknown. Brands use tradition as a
up being a real film, presented in the so-called author-fashion, we sales and marketing tool: but only in
de la moda mexicana. In the fashion world, social causes,
Paris in the asvoff 8, and in forums see a permanent situation: Every applications and embroidery that is half
El progreso y la innovación sólo violence and injustice are always issues
and festivals all over Mexico. The 10 years there are extinctions in reminiscent of certain ethnic groups, worth to be explored: alexander
tienen sentido en el contexto de una which promising young people, fail
materials of my own research, gave using indigenous labor ... dangerously mcqueen in 1995 with his collection
historia vibrante. to settle and break businesses, lose confusing exploitation with design.
for more. Using crowdfunding we ‘Highland Rape’ made a statement about
collected 147% of what we had asked their turn and open the door to a This ‘Mexican design’ replicates symbols the political situation in his country, one
Diane Pernet - una mirada velada de la moda new herd of ‘promises’. and ways of the country’s memorable of countless examples.
for, to print this book. :D
160 161
From #nosfaltan43 to #yosoy132, pages 22 -23 crossroad: to create from tradition, or In Mexico during the same century, the The entire twentieth century was a even if they were brave, on pain of being
Mexican fashion avoids controversial from innovation... to create from the stories of travelers like Mme. Calderón zigzag defining the history of Mexican therefore stoned and dead.
issues. In the impossibility of articulating past to make hommage to kitsch taste, de la Barca, or Alexander Von Humboldt art: bouncing between nationalism and
its own concepts, it looks at distant i nspiración o plagio . without taking into account the needs left a narrative record, and led to world styles. A discussion that began ‘The cactli, sandal or shoe of the Indian,
mirages (from Marie Antoinette to and expectations of the mass market cartographic compendiums, which also in high culture but which will be the says Peñafiel, reveals the back of the
the Bauhaus). But never researches the Los mexicanos buscan indemnización in Mexico, beyond the ‘folklorismos’ contained descriptions and engravings subject of the pioneers Valdiosera, foot and covers the heel; (I-II-III-IV-V-
Estridentismo, the Contemporaries, the por una copia que hizo una diseñadora that are sought from abroad looking at that sought to classify taxonomically all Valdés Peza and Chatillon, when they VI-VII), were made of tiger leather. The
Antonieta Rivas Mercado, the Lupe francesa. Mexico. Or do something different... orders from animals to clothing. discussed whether a nationalist fashion soles of deer leather of several folds and
Marín, the Kolontai... Nahui Ollin. Does was preferable, or one based on the stitched like the spaniard espadrilles.
not seek a Valdiosera - the pioneer - as a In June of 2015, the indigenous Nowadays, with another perspective, Thus, the Italian Claudio Linati published patterns of France or the United States. The cacles called pozolcactli were made
continuous inspiration and reference. community of Tlahuitoltepec, Chris Cruz’s sacrifice brand articulates in 1828 ‘costumes civils, militaires et of fox fur (pozotli) and were used by
demanded Isabel Marant in court street protests creating a contemporary réligieux du mexique’ (p. 102-103) and There are lively discussions in fashion: the merchants. They were also adorned
And of course NEVER takes the accusing her of plagiarism. icon: The mourning Mexico’s flag, the German Carl Nebel in 1836, ‘voyage a young designer, Rodrigo de Noriega, with paintings or mythological figures.
‘muertas de Juárez’, the ghosts of the not green, white and red, but black on pittoresque et archéologique dans la in a Pride parade, wears a traditional Mexicans came to create an important
disappeared, the maquila scandal, the An embroidered blouse inspired by a black. The ability to interpret street partie la plus intéressante du méxique’ Triqui dress, which looks modern, variety of footwear both in the
terrain of inequality: traditional piece, within a collection zeitgeist - the spirit of the time - achieves (107-110), with a prologue by Humboldt. contemporary and not at all out of application of materials, as in their
presenting a set of Latin American what fashion would always have to do, place. Does it claim gender or ethnicity? ornamentation and in the particular
‘Las Rodarte, went on a trip to Ciudad references on each garment. With making the feeling felt in the nation Later appeared the work of chroniclers Modernity or a new tradition? and very remarkable form of knots and
Juárez; at dawn, the mist, and the a great objection: inspiration, as portable and tangible. A relationship and historians as Antonio García interlacings. Not only on the spotted
maquila women leaving to work in the appropriation is a standard procedure as important as the ‘68 and the shirts Cubas with the ‘atlas picturesque skin of the ocelot, the leopard, and the
middle of the night, led them to make a in the fashion and art processes of the of Che Guevara. But he designs for a and historical of the united states fox, but the fine feathers of birds like
collection with the idea of sleepwalkers’ world. When a Mexican designer takes Mexico, not idyllic, not perfect: realism mexicanos’ of 1885 (66,70-71), or quetzals garments were in blankets,
... inspiration, application or detail from / opportunity. Antonio Peñafiel with his ‘mexican old applied to the cactlis of nobility and
The ghostly models look like Catrina a traditional garment nobody protests, clothing dresses warrior and civil of kings. There are also cozehuatl, a kind
skulls. Trope that, from video games to but in this case it seems that the ‘doer The ‘author’s fashion’ should be a social the ancient mexicans’ of 1903 (27-29). of leather leggings or half boots covered
animated films, is lost in the fascination being a foreigner’ is the real issue. commentary and a mirror of reality if it with gold leaflets arranged in the form
for the fascination of Mexicans with is intended to respond to ‘fast fashion’ The look behind these documents is of snake scales. Regarding this, Father
death. And in the ‘Isabel Marant vs. deep and leave a mark on a major imaginary. not the perspective we currently have. pages 33-35 Sahagun says: ‘They used to bring on
Mexico’ case the conflict resides in the When only sewing is taught at schools, After the conquest, all vestiges of the their legs, from the knee down, very fine
‘White dresses reminiscent of idea of plagiarism. But, from what is a vacuum is created that seeks to be past were buried, what little survived mexican footwear gold greaves’.
quinceañera parties, the cadence of the learned in schools, Mexican fashion is filled with ‘something’. In the absence was the mortar of a cultural syncretism (facsimilar book) gabriel fernández ledesma
bride, and if you want to see it through a used to ‘appropriation’ as a sole creative of concepts, the idea of a glorious, where the culture of the vanquished was / calzado mexicano - cactlis y huaraches / These cozehuatl were exclusive of the
truly dark glass, the ghost of the victims strategy. untouchable past, knowable through not seen with any value. 1930 / colección trendo.mx warriors and their function corresponded
of the wars of the Juárez cartel ...’ craftsmanship, creates a perpetual to the calzas used by the assyrian soldiers,
The question arising is if we build a wall motion machine that believes the answer In 1915 the painter Saturnino Herran ‘Evidently Mexican traditional hunters of beasts from a car, to protect
The Mulleavy sisters did not study where we only recycle the past because lies in a fake ‘identity’. Then the past of unveiled ‘our gods’ (page 28), a footwear exists, which since ancient themselves. Always used in relation to
fashion, one made art history, the other ‘it’s ours’, how we can innovate. Mexico must create its present: What monumental painting showing an image times appears in various monuments: the cactli and sometimes formed their
English and with their Mexican roots Mexico was ... will create what Mexico that even today seems strange: young Mayan frescoes, sculptures and pottery, prolongation or part of it’.
used their mother’s last name as a brand: Serious Mexican brands like lidya should be. Indians of an idealized perfect beauty in the Indian codex and stories of Spanish
Rodarte ... lavín have taken the idea of tradition The great misunderstanding is that in paying tribute to a god half Coatlicue, missionaries. But the Mexican footwear
to rethink a contemporary design, but Mexican fashion there are no sources, half Christ. (cactli) is of singular importance if one
Disruptive, they chose a strange subject with roots. Made with seriousness and but it turns out that there are, only they understands its social significance: it
... and at that moment they set on fire social commitment uniting production, remain unkown. Raising an unresolved preoccupation denoted a rank, a hierarchy inaccessible page 36
the Mexican press that took flight: that knowledge of crafts techniques and fair of the Porfirist regime -mexican remix to those who did not have enough
3 perspectives
if it was a disrespect to the maquiladoras, trade. of the Victorian era-, a patriotic image merit to appear among the knights. The
and for a climax ‘That it was a mockery moving away from the neoclassical ideal low peasants, the macehuales, walked
to the muertas de Juarez’! … lydia lavín is not only a designer tuned in the Greco-Roman, turning barefoot and could not acquire the
but has been also a promoter of our eyes towards the construction of privilege of using cactlis if it did not ‘The canvas of Tlaxcalla’ [...] is not
Then the case went into the Human fashion education at the Universidad page 30 ‘ours’ which would be one of the great conquer them by acts of nobility or properly a canvas. It is a folio volume of
Rights Commission of Mexico city and Iberoamericana’s design careers. As pursuits of mexican post-revolution. The heroism in the war. sixty-seven centimeters wide by forty-
“forced” Rodarte to apologize and a brand it focuses on the cultural ancient mexican clothing. construction of ‘the national’ in an epic ‘The use of clothing and the cacles, seven high, composed of eighty-six
contribute money to a fund for victims. and textile wealth of Mexico. From that sought to delimit otherness from established an immense separation leaves ...
its creation in 2005, the brand has Auguste Racinet was a French the definition of the proper. If we were between the knights and macehuales,
Or maybe the protest is because collaborated with Mexican artisans. scholar who in 1876, published ‘le costume ‘European’, then the ‘Mexican’ was like between the nobility and the plain.
someone from the outside considers that Since ramón valdiosera raised the historique’. The nineteenth was the century something to hide: a family history that According to Tezozomoc, the former This is this is the style written in
these issues are transcendent? question of a Mexican fashion with of great conquests, that colonial spirit seeked we all know but do not want to repeat. could bring long, gallant, carved ‘ancient clothing’ (27-29) by the voice
mexican roots, a long list of creators the exoticism of distant peoples to find in If we were Mexicans, then to create blankets. And the low macehuales had of Peñafiel, long lists that does not make
from josefa to carla fernández has their rarities reasons for enhancement of the neo-Aztec styles, to exalt the bronze to bring the short, plain blankets of interpretations, but only describes.
been walking that road ending in a civilized ones & the barbarism of others. race, to rewrite the ‘Ulises’ as ‘Criollo’, heavy cotton or henequen. No common It is read as one of the lists of tribute
a new identity motto. Indians were to bring cacles or coats, registered in the codices.
162 163
His approach is both historical and epic and to make the designer barefoot: a when at the beginning of xxth century In 1992 he published 3000 years of page 44-45 was used by all the people of Mexico,
in the description of characters, but manual to unlearn in 2016, a fashion Madeleine Vionnet revolutionized mexican fashion (43). Book finished in except for the Tarascos, which seemed
without becoming anthropological. In show at the Jumex Museum in Mexico fashion -even more than Poiret and June 1969, but published 23 years later 3000 years of mexican fashion scandalous to the inhabitants of the
200 pages, the book is divided into text, City. Chanel-, it was because she made it until the National Chamber of Garment ramón valdiosera berman / 3000 años center. This garment came from the
section of lithographs in color and ends without Orientalist inspirations, nor Industry took the project with a print de moda mexicana / 1992 / biblioteca Olmecs and the Maya, was very old in
with monochrome impressions of the Carla reminds us that in Mexico the outbursts of modern woman: she run of 4000 copies. trendo.mx (facsimilar book)
its origin. In the folds were kept small
prehispanic royalty. western patronage is taught and then researched the form. In 312 pages, it is the fundational text objects and on their tips could collect
traditional details are put over, but Starting from the golden ratio and the about the subject in Mexico. In an ‘We brought a thousand images to the fruits and seeds. When a rope was
Gabriel Fernández Ledesma in his the point is that indigenous clothing is constructive vocabulary of the Greek echo to the autobiographies of Poiret, studio. To capture the style and fashion needed, it could be removed and used
mexican footwear cactlis and different as a concept. clothes, she arrived at a geometric Schiaparelli and Dior, Valdiosera of the Mexican. Valdiosera made to climb rocks, was used even to sleep. It
huaraches of 1930, edited by the approach that was the basis of its describes from his experience the thousands of sketches. Weavers, fruit was an extraordinarily versatile garment.
Secretary of Public Education (33-35) design, where neither the figurine nor world of fashion he lived, along with sellers, peasants, artisans, birdwatchers,
contrasts with other cultures, takes eventually the modeling -which she an exhaustive anthropological account hatsellers, all the immense range of quechquemitl: Rectangular piece that
words from the popular imagination in invented- were the objective: made a where the uses and customs at times are characters from a Mexico that is escaping is armed to hang from the shoulders
a colophon of popular sayings about the page 41 golden rule calculus and solved the confused with fashion. What is fashion? from the heart and the landscape, were hanging on the chest. After the conquest
shoe, interprets the Prehispanic pieces geometry in the plane of each garment, What is history? How do they build imprisoned by the author’s pencil in this was generalized between the costumes
in drawings and engravings, making it a without basic patronage, each dress an identity together? -that will be the work. With this documentation, several of the indigenous peoples. It has a
pleasant and even fun to read document. innovative solution by itself. complete theme of Mexican fashion. parallel with the ‘stola’ that was used in
tailored vs. geometric books could be formed’.
Byzantium and evolved to become the
Three decades separate both studies, Understanding the construction of a For those looking in their pages for all top piece of Western clothing.
but they could not be more different: Differences between mexican garment such as volume and shape, poses the answers, it is a monograph of Master
one is the scientific point of view of clothing and occidental tayloring: a complex design exercise. In Mexico a Valdiosera and his vision about the past huipil: The huipil was the same, a
the Porfiriato and the second, although monolithic basic patterning is taught, and of Mexico. It organizes information page 46 rectangular piece open at the neck as a
One measured in fingers, quarts & even adjust avant-garde creations to it. according to ethnic origin: Teotihuacan, blouse and variable length, which can
being published after the resignation of
Jose Vasconcelos to the SEP in 1924, is elbows the other in centimeters, inches In the pre-Hispanic world clothing was Zapotec, Mayan, Toltec, Aztec.
in the navel of the moon: also be used with a tied skirt.
part of a review of Mexico’s past to the and yards. based on a ‘square root’. It goes on through the history of Mexico, It could be used as a small tent sticking
The silhouette is one is geometric in the That’s what the name ‘Mexico’ means.
motto ‘for my race the spirit will speak’. Current words do not even apply. colony, revolution, returning to the its arms into this wide dress and being
other fitted to the body In the tradition fabrics should never be
In which, of course the traditional dress Skirt, trousers, shirt and shoe have no perspective of the present indigenous protected from the mosquitoes, the
One is measured with yarns, other with rules cut because the ‘thread of life’ would be
was also being revalued. equivalent or echo in quexquemetl, world (44-45) And it focuses mainly on heat and the cold. In some regions it
One made seams by hand the other with cut off. This idea was shared by ancient
The book concludes: amarre or cactli. his own history, his own promise and the was the quechquemitl substitute of
machines pre-hispanic cultures & the Greeks,
‘The bibliography on this subject is so Furthermore, the concept of fashion did forcefulness of its weight. the huipil and in others only the noble
The cut of patterns in one is straight in -not the only coincidence, helenic
scarce, that very few notes on Mexican not exist: woman used it like distinctive of their
the other the cut is curved peoples used clamide as a garment hung
footwear have been consulted. On the ‘Among the ancient Mexicans, all That universe of pre-Hispanic clothing rank. It had various forms of use, varying
One closes the clothes with knots and from a shoulder, and here in Mexico
other hand, the nature of this small were apparently dressed in the same that so fascinated Valdiosera (to the point how to fold it and also served to carry
girdles and the other with buttons and the equivalent was the tilma. The base
monograph tends only to show the garments. Clothing was not a transitory of leading him to open a fleeting museum the child. The lower classes had the bust
zippers of the dress was simple for both men
transformation of Mexican footwear phenomenon and had a single function: of fashion), did not survive the conquest, uncovered.
To cut fabric, one by tears or not cut at and women. Few pieces, sometimes
aesthetics, drawing especially on graphic to fix the identity of the individual and neither in the dress of the colony nor in
all, the other use scissors very ornate. The material was cotton,
comparisons from the pre-Cortesian thus to declare their ethnic affiliation’. that of the Porfiriato. But that Mexican cueitl: Fabric skirt wrapped around the
henequen or maguey fiber.
era to the present day and without the imaginary fascinating Don Ramón, has lower part of the body and that fell
existence of a desire to make history’. The manual (37) also includes Carla’s Without fashion, they had attire. A not been rethought in the collections below the calf, fixed to the waist by an
experience in other fashion initiatives Their ‘basics’ were:
confusion in the studies of the dress in of the XXI century. Now we have fluid embroidered girdle.
such as the Flora Workshop. tilmatli: Synonym ayatl, was adapted to
A century later Carla Fernández is a Mexico, is that they see in the evidences identities, in constant transformation ...
Based on a conceptual scheme, it spanish language both as tilma and ayate.
fashion designer who comes from a -dressings-, nonexistent meanings - but unaware of their past.
determines which are the coordinates It was a piece of square fabric made of
different culture than other designers: fashion. page 48
between the industrial processes, the cotton or raw blanket ixtle. So big as to
her father was in charge of INAH’s In this legacy there are detailed drawings
crafts and properly the terrain of the cover the man’s body but leaving enough
-National Institute of Anthropology- The pioneer of fashion in Mexico, in that give an account of the depth of his
design. uncovered skin. It was multipurpose,
museums and traveling together, from design and research was: investigations - others of his books are
the time she was a child she recognized about Bonampak, or Quetzaltcoatl -
shelter at night, or used to wrap and carry tlapalli & xóchitl: dyes
The labyrinth in which everyone gets things. In the upper classes: tlamachayatl,
the indigenous clothes of each area, then which allows his texts to be exhaustive
lost confusing artisan products with colored and with feather enhancement Tlapalli was the name of color
buy it and mix it with her contemporary page 42 in his anthropological knowledge,
mere craftsmanship is resolved by unlike the daily tilma that was raw manta in general, although particularly referred
clothes. ‘Of these two fashions, the aesthetically complex and totalizing
keeping in mind that the creation of -crude cotton fabric. to red. Curiously, the term ‘tlapalería’, is
indigenous and the western, I created in the approach that summon from the
western fashion and the indigenous hairstyle, to the headdresses and the a voice that comes from the Nahuatl, and
my own style,’ she says in ‘the manual
of the barefoot designer’, her book of garment belongs to different categories. ramón valdiosera berman even the uses of each one of Mexican
maxtlatl: The man wore a loincloth, alludes to the place to sell ‘colors’ for
By understanding the strategies of the and on top of that, the tilmatli. It the house or to dye the clothes, would
2013. (37) regions.
art world, the design processes as a In the 40’s he was the first to consider protected the sex, but giving freedom be something like the ‘coloreria’ :D.
discipline and -on top of- the reality of that in order to articulate a language to the limbs. It was a cloth that passed
Her major in Art History, allowed her
the fashion business ... carla fernández through dress it was required a Mexican between the legs and out the front, The cochinilla bean of a deep red color
to mix artistic references and understand
is a brand with an imaginary, a concept fashion made with Mexican materials. dropping forward and back the ends, was cultivated on the nopal, being one
the strategies of the art world to
and feet on the ground. He also did some twenty books. which were embroidered. In 1500 it of the main sources to dye.
construct imaginaries for her collections,
164 165
The inks of vegetal origin were teeth, which for the greater elegance was Extraordinary cartoonist and when deepening, his garments are a the cattle ... and the fat ... giving rise to page 64
abundant: the indigo blue was produced made by bumping the teeth as castanets. draughtsman, which led him to illustrate translation of the Spanish pictorial a new kitchen. o f s pa n i s h and indian: mestizo
of the plant siuhquilitl and of the At the time of the conquest, the hair was the covers and interiors of the vanity repertoire of Goya to Picasso. Always In clothing, the pieces of the pre-
flowers matlalli, tezotli and oxoxouic lifted on the head with two buds similar fair in the first half of the XXth. presenting the flamenco and winks to Hispanic world merged into a cultural When the conquest was completed in
where the whole range of blue was to small horns, or on informal occasions Universal Mexican, his gaze saw from religious costumes. But even when is ‘so syncretism, which soon gave way to a 1521 a handful of Spaniards were at the
made from. The orange came from the loose on the shoulders for greater beauty. the island of Bali, the Mexican cultures, Spanish’, does not feel neither folkloric hierarchical system of caste in which, head of a gigantic colony. Many without
seed achiyotl. The red came out of the to the most chic and cosmopolitan nor ethnic: his language is universal. the higher one was, the more European hesitation, they espouse the natives.
‘palo del Brazil’. The yellow came from The feminine appearance in Mexico- scenes of his world. the costume.
a parasite of the trees, the zacatlaxcalli. Tenochtitlán reacted with sobriety Now, 70 years after the perspective In Spain there were women who, also
Black was made of pine soot. against the barbaric ornamentation that ‘impossible conversations’ were cartoons of ‘mexico south’ (52. 55) an Faced with new beliefs, literally the pre- without any hesitation, sold everything
reigned in the neighboring towns. in which he gathers onto the same anthropological image of the nineteen Hispanic world was buried. But hidden they owned and made their last
Iron oxide was wide used, the Maya picture an Elsa Schiaparelli talking with sixties surprises in its modernity: a young there, he continued to live and color investment in elegant wardrobes to go
discovered a blue pigment, also used In Tenochtitlán it was considered that Stalin. To the rhythm of jazz he drew the Huichol contemplates us, challenging New Spain. to sea and seek a husband in other lands.
a lot on sculptures taken from the the woman of the ruling class had only Harlem of his time - the same as another to make use of his clothes as a proposal
Beidelite mineral. to be neat to assert her charms: ‘So that protagonist of this story, the Chango of streetwear for the XXI century. (56) By the seventeenth century these
Fray Bernardino de Sahagún tells of the your husband does not hate you, dress & Garcia Cabral-. mixtures had created a multitude of
profession of dyers and how the colors clean yourself, and wash your clothes’. racial possibilities of social positioning,
in the market were sold in large baskets. Watching the evolution of the in perfectly established castes that were
tehuana suit (p.54), we can see how page 61 expected to be identifiable through
In Mexico the meaning of the colors was the Quixquemetl and the Huipil ‘the page 59 clothing and within a super stratified
extremely rich, for example: eternal female of pre-Hispanic Mexico’ society delimited the possibilities of
Blue meant water, it was the color of (A) and (B) are seen from the pre- A miracle was necessary to merge both promotion, property and position within
Tlaloc and the deities of the waters. The Hispanic figures. In engravings of the
second part the viceroyalty cultures in a harmonious way. the viceregal society.
introduction
yellow indicated the light of the stars. early XIX century, the bust is uncovered,
Black was associated with darkness, page 50 although with the veiled head (C), then The pre-Hispanic world In 1959, in an INAH collection,
‘The rich empire of Moteczuma
nighttime and the god Tezcatlipoca. is transformed into the ‘huipil de tapar’ was accustomed to omens, signs and Abelardo Carrillo y Gariel published ‘el
fell, wounded by the sword of an
Red, with fire, sacrifice, because it is the zoque (D) and of this became (E) the prophecies, every thing and color had vestido en la nueva españa’ (58), where
audacious and intelligent adventurer’...
color of blood, the precious liquid that commercial version made of machine- meaning, flowers dyed their fabrics. he comments:
fed the gods.
covarrubias and tehuanas made lace . And with varied versions of
This is how the narrative of the conquest
They had as sacred the territory of
begins in a page like this, in the volume
And with Xipetotec the lord of the the headdress, until taking the classic Tepeyac, and a great respect for the ‘No mestizo, mulatto or black woman
The Mexican dress later evolved of ‘mexico through the ages’ of 1884.
skinned - symbolizing the change of form of the $ 10 peso bill of the mid- female figure in his pantheon of gods. is dressed as an Indian, not a Spaniard,
into a multitude of local versions. As an The tone tells the story, but unlike
seasons - The priests of this god, took twentieth -that actually referred to a under penalty of being prey.
example in the area of the Isthmus of the voice of the twentieth century,
the skin of the captives and used it as a more primitive form of the headdress. - Cultural sincretism: The Indian Juan
Tehuantepec appears the costume of sang from the vision of the winners.
perfect fitted garment that gave them Diego dressed in a traditional tilma, Give him a hundred lashes publicly in
Tehuana. It is an adapted version of the ‘chronicle of destruction’, ‘heart
the appearance of the dead. Covarrubias’ perspective is necessary finds an image of divine inspiration the streets and pay a penalty of four
ancient huipil, a rectangle cut in half, of green stone’, ‘chronicle of the
in contemporary Mexican fashion. If that carries Western clothing, the tunic reales to the sheriff who arrests him and
sewn to the sides leaving only the exact conquest of new spain’ in any version
In the XXth century a Japanese instead of pointing to folklorism -which recalls a dalmatic with an opening this is understood with the mestizas,
size for the user’s arms to pass. It is used what is told is an encounter, only
researcher yoshiko shirata dedicated in its ignorance takes literal elements eroded with ermine. with the mulattas and black women who
with lining, and until the first half of equivalent to what we would have
her life to investigate the way in which form craft- we seek to establish lines The image of the Virgin carries a garment were married to Indians’.
the twentieth century was maintained with an extraterrestrial civilization: all
the pre-Hispanics performed the of contact with the past, yes, but that is not the rigid clothes worn by the
within a predetermined color: dark assumptions were left Overflowing.
dyeing processes and experimentally transforming it into a vision of design rich women at that time in the colony. According to Humboldt’s calculations,
purple, red, scarlet, vermilion.
reconstructed them to perform stained that at the same time understood the A tunic. Happy event, because that of a total mexican population of almost
fabrics with flowers and Mexican fruits. changes of the Mexican society updating The Aztec civilization had subjected all simplicity gave her the possibility of 5 million people, half were Indians.
Seldom stamped, in some cases with dots, the surrounding towns, and there was
the repertoire of garments, with wearing it timeless for centuries to come.
and sometimes with patterns of leaves no concept of Mexico-nation as we now
Carefully polished obsidian mirrors, as echoes of the past, so that they were Of mixed breeds there were 1,231,000.
and flowers. Surprisingly, the materials understand it. Not only the clash of the
well as creams and perfumes were on contemporary without being folkloric, The creation of the symbol became And of the rest, 1 million whites of which
of the Huipiles came from England -from Spaniards, but the sum of unimaginable
the female boudoir. The women whose then we would be initiating the way synonymous with Mexico, accompanying only 70,000 were born in Europe. But
Manchester textiles-, made especially weapons, horses (incomprehensible),
natural color was a tanned brown, liked so that our fashion had a different and the heroic deeds, as a banner and blazon that small percentage was the one that
for sale in the Isthmus and nowhere else. diseases against which no one had
to have a light yellow tint as seen in the recognizable voice in the choir of the in all struggles from independence to dominated as far as all customs of all
But the market was later taken over by resistance and a new religion caused the
codices. They did it with a paste called fashionista World. revolution. type were adopted.
Mexican manufacturers, even though fall and a paradigm shift that happened
axin and with the tecozauitl, a yellow
the old Tehuanas still look for the good, in all orders.
land that was so coveted that some Per example in the work of Cristóbal Although the concept of the Mexican is The natives continued to use
traditional cottons from Manchester.
provinces gave it to pay tribute. Balenciaga that thing happens hardly developed at that moment, the quexquemitl and huipil. His men in a
To paint the teeth of black-dark red with continuously. If one sees it as high Previous nudity was forbidden, and Guadalupe cult becomes one of its bases, white blanket, the ixtle tilma, and a
All this according to Miguel Covarrubias those among the upper classes who had
gravel was a custom extended between fashion, the constructive miracles, the and the sacred image causes appropriations hairstyle that earned them the nickname
who published in 1946, in English, the the chance to survive, mingled with the
the huastecas, the otomíes and some explorations of the form, the sober to the world of Chicanos, Cholos and ‘peeled’: a monk’s collar with two long
book ‘mexico south, the isthmus of conquerors not only in the flesh, but in
women of Tenochtitlan that had been coloring, are in tune and respond to Mexican-Americans of the 21st century. locks over his ears. Both made and wore
tehuantepec’ (52-55) all their customs.
fond to do it. It was customary to smoke what was done at the time of Dior’s ‘the Their mestizo features, presage the huaraches. The ordinances allowed
Covarrubias was a creator interested in In architecture was called ‘tequitqui’, in
themselves with some smelling fumes new look’. mixture, which will be the source of Indian, Spaniards and mestizos to work
Mexican culture. the gastronomy came the birds, the pig,
and to chew the ‘tzictli’ to clean the But to us as Mexicans surprises us that where the Mexican nation will be born. as weavers, but not to black people.
166 167
‘Pachucos, cholos and chundos, page 69 Christopher Columbus (c), Hernán the titanic task to create the 5 volumes mulberry trees in order to begin the There was a constant commerce of
chichinflas and malafachas, here the Cortés (d), Bernal Díaz del Castillo (e). of the ‘mexican costume museum’ (73) breeding of the silkworm. Still, contact both goods and information with the
chompiras laugh and dance the tibiri c r e o l e s & v i c e r o y s Born at the end of the fifteenth century, in 2001. Covering from the Prehispanic was maintained with Asia, through Metropolis so that the French influence
tabara’ says the lyrics of Café Tacuba in they wear the Renaissance clothes, the world until the end of the twentieth Manila, and visits of the ‘Nao of China’. fashions felt their dictate over Mexico
the chorus of their ‘chilanga banda’, In the colony those born in dalmatic - a kind of nightgown - with century, it is a ‘history of art’ as it City fashion in few months and then was
but that variety of characters is what was Spain were of first, and those born of a vest and tights - the typical costume presents the garments and the artistic With these materials, brocades of high spilled all over the colony.
lived in the colony: Spaniards in Mexico were of second. with which they paint Columbus in and cultural context of each era, in 80- quality were made in the loom. Lace,
Ahí te estas = no te entiendo + india / The owners of that world, with all other school prints. And warriors and priests page fascicles, totalizing around 400 velvet, furs and chamois, which begin to For the seventeenth century, the New
Albino = español + morisca / castes below. In our cultural memory represented in armor and religious robes. pages of costume history in Mexico. sell in the ‘parian’ of the Plaza Mayor Spain knights wore:
Castizo = mestizo con blanca / and everyday life of 21st century Mexico, of the great city of Mexico.
Coyote = indio + mestiza / the same reality is still present. On the left, from the first Virrey Dn Those centuries of XVI, XVII The doublet -that was originally a
Chino = lobo + negra / Antonio de Mendoza (f), there are the and XVIII were the virreinato of the New garment to mount. A jacket fitted
Cholo = mestizo + india / The Mexican identity that we have gorges in the neck that grow in size until Spain and the existence of the Baroque either with loose sleeves or with ‘sleeves
Jarocho = negro + india / seen both in Lourdes Almeida and they become ‘lechuguillas’ completely in the style and the thought, are the to assemble’ - opened to be closed with
Lobo = indio + negra / in Andonella, is always contrasted covering the neck and burying the face. crucible where the Mexican identity was ribbons.
Mestizo = blanco + india / with Western identity and fashion. To As is seen in the Marquis of Guadalcazar being forged as we now understand it.
Morisco = blanco + mulata / explore our identities we resort to Frida’s (g), Viceroy in the sixteenth century. The Coleto or Cuera - that was the same
Mulato = blanco + negra / mustache print exotisms, away from our ‘baroque’ was said in Portuguese to doublet but with a sewn skirt that did
No te entiendo = tente en el aire con own -falsa- canteen camaraderie that At the bottom of the column three those pearls in a totally irregular form, not go further the hip. Underneath it,
mulata / makes us dream that we are characters viceroys: the Marquis of Mancera, Fray and by extension the name was given page 77 you could see the ...
Sambaigo = cambujo + india / from Mexican golden cinema. In Payo de Rivera and the Marquis de la to architecture, and even the language
Tente en el aire = cambujo + india / contrast, television, large department Laguna (h) coincide as the patrons who embodied in poetry full of puns, Shorts - the equivalent of the culotte,
Zambo = indio + negra .... stores and fashion editorial images helped Sor Juana to establish himself as adornments and flourishes. It is difficult to imagine that which covered the upper thighs and
Citing up to 60 possible combinations. present us with the image of an ideal the tenth muse. That time coincides with between us in the future, and the pre- which were complemented by silk or
Mexico-country populated by people France in the reign of Louis XIV, which is It was not only an artistic form charged Hispanic world, existed a universe in wool stockings.
Who understands Mexican society who are “pretty, good, white and well seen in the French-influenced hairstyles per se. It was the way to express the itself, the colony. Octavio Paz in ‘las
even today, knows it is not racist but behaved.” (68) and neckties - rows and cravates - that role of man discovering a new world, to trampas de la fe’ - a tale of the time and
The Ropón or Sayo - that was a loose
deeply classist... In the colony, from the become even more exaggerated in the worship and serve God. The capitals of biography of Sor Juana - tells us: layer that was used over the other
materials to the type of garment was a But if the book of Almeida presented column on the right, at the time of Louis the viceroyalties became the centers of dresses.
constant and ostensible announcement about 150 different forms of Mexican XV and XVI. Until reaching the Count all intellectual activity, and life in them “The viceroyal court exercised a dual
of class. Two centuries later and the families, in the dress, the region and the of Revillagigedo (i), at the time of the was imbued with erudition, ceremony, civilizing mission: it transmitted to the New The ‘gorguera’ - (ruff) appears in the
situation is not different at all. customs ... then why in the fashion of French revolution, omen of the changes and artificiality. Spain society the models of the European XVI and reaches its apogee in the XVII.
author the repertoire is so limited that to come. aristocratic culture and proposed to the Increasingly it is outlawed in 1623 and
In the nineteenth century, Antonio always refers to the more obvious ethnic As the ruffles bloom in the necks, the collective imitation a type of sociability becomes the ‘golilla’ that is like a raised
García Cubas in his ‘picturesque and groups, through the most boring basics, The white wigs stop in Fernando VII (j) seventeenth century sees the decadence different from those offered by the other neck in the back of the nape.
historical atlas of the united mexican with an incomprehensible interest in that looks with air to the style directory of the sober Spanish costume and is two great New Spain institutions, the
states’ of 1885 (66) no longer speaks of making evening dresses embroidered / Napoleonic; Arriving last reigning transformed with the luxury of the Church and the University. In front of Linen, silk, apricot and suede were
castes, but ‘the white race’ dominates more cheesy than quinceañera dress? Spanish Dn Juan O’Donoju (k), the costumes of the French court. The ladies these the court represented a way of life materials for specialty, which for
his illustrations up to the top. Around sideburns, the high collar and the coat who arrived in New Spain were dressed more aesthetic and vital”. formal ceremonies were made in satin
there are Tarascos, Tzotziles, Zoques, Because from the colony comes the of military court adorned with thread in the 1500’s clothing: the ‘farthingale’, with taffeta linings always of different
Zapotecs. It no longer says ‘Indians’ patriarchal dictation that marks ‘from of gold and silver recalls the clothes a large skirt thanks to wicker structures Around 1680, the 28th Viceroy Marquis color, since often jubones, ponchos
but ‘Mexicans’. As the chart shows, above’ as dressed ‘decent people’. that we have seen in the liberators from that gave the sides a prominence, with de la Laguna ‘ruled the kingdom at the and panties were stabbed to reveal the
at the end of the nineteenth century Simon Bolivar to Morelos, when in 1821, a very tight torso, but the the corset of head of a court which, perhaps with all fabric of the lining. This slashed, also
the country had 9 million people, of In the world of the colony the Viceroys, consummated independence. the XIX century and its structure was not conscience, imitated the debauchery, called Walon style, arose after a battle
which only 2 were white and the rest coming from across the sea, imposed the invented yet. fascination and immorality of the in which shredded clothing became a
indigenous and mestizo. pattern of European culture. contemporary versailles of louis xiv’. symbol of style, and reproduced from
In the case of men, the medieval doublet the shoulders and torsos to the shoes.
In 1994, the Mexican photographer A panorama of rulers and notables - a kind of structured sack, special for the In the narrative of cinema and literature
Lourdes Almeida made the project throughout the history of the colony mounts and the battle - leaves aside to characters of all kinds from Vatel the
of ‘portrait of family, the mexican is what García Cubas presents us in the become the Levites with large fists and perfect gourmet, Jean-Baptiste Lully
nation’ (67). Images of all regions of picturesque atlas (page 70-71). knee length, which in the upper classes the great baroque musician to Moliére
the country capture families posing in is used curd of embroidery in threads the genius, appear creating aesthetic
their own way. The white families are There are only two women: Queen page 72 of precious materials. In the Americas, experiences for the French court. In New
the least, dressed in the Western style. Isabella the Catholic (a), and Doña given the abundance of silver, it is very Spain the same sensations were sought:
Around Mennonites, Tarahumara, Marina ‘La Malinche’ (b). She is the only common to see argentine applications in
people from the north and south, urban Mexican in the graph. clio is the muse of h i s to ry the fabrics of both sexes. Sor Juana provided the delights of the word
and rural show the variety of clothes we while advising in the creation of triumphal
wear Mexicans, not from the ‘typical In the first lines conquerors, chroniclers She advised Lydia Lavín to make a pause The Viceroy Antonio de Mendoza had arches, floral games and accompaniments
costume’ but with the daily clothing and evangelizers. in her work as a designer and academic, authorized the son of Hernán Cortés for her majesties the viceroys.
that for them is not everyday folklore. and along with Gisela Balassa, she take to establish the cultivation of 100,000
168 169
page 78-79 page 8O & 81 adorned with moles of tortoiseshell or Subsequently, by the influence of It goes deep into the pre-Hispanic and page 87
silk adhered with glue on the cheeks and French fashion, the jacket is hardened stops at the end of the 18th century.
el traje y el adorno en méxico the temples. by paper or animal hair that makes it
indumentaria mexicana pops up from the hips, leaving one open The very body of the text warns that if
josé r. benitez / méxico 1946 / trendo.mx
library (facsimilar book)
maría dolores morales / artes de méxico
When lifting the skirt and show off to the front in the form of an inverted V one wants to go deeper, one must refer independence of mexico
/ no. 77 - 78 / 1966 / trendo.mx library
the footwear, it was decorated with that allowed a rich ’chupa’ on glittery to the volume of Prof. Abelardo Carrillo
(facsimilar book) embroidery or buckles of gold and silver. fabrics. The cuffs that tend to become y Gariel ‘el traje en la nueva españa’
...Group appearing in a painting The Independence of Mexico
that represents the translation of the The shoes for luxury suits were made in rich smaller are usually made with the same edited by inah in 1959 (58). This author
‘The sleeves below the elbow fabrics but never in leather. As an informal kind of fabric used for the ’chupa’, under coming from the world of the arts, was the consequence of a political and
Nazarene to the Church of Jesus of the are turned to form broad cuffs that let social process resolved by means of the
City of Mexico the 3 of March of 1663, they dress, among the ladies of the rank, besides which the tie is concealed. (Figure 14). paradoxically being rich in historical and
rows of lace fall, then the cuff disappears, the ‘casaquín’ -jacket-, a loose bodice Continuing its evolution in a decreasing cultural data is laconic in the images and arms, that put an end to the Spanish
use clothing of the immediate century. shortening the sleeve but retaining its dominion in the territories of New Spain.
of short sleeves, of various cloths to the sense, the ‘chupa’ was gradually reduced borders the subject of clothing without
lace trim. At the end of the century the slightly amplious skirt, and the ‘matilla’ to become a waistcoat that by 1780 it really being the axis. The war for Mexican Independence had
Group consisting of two of the edges of necklines and sleeves and the its antecedent in the invasion of France
personages that appear in the previous blanket covering the head and shoulders. presents a frank curve in its...
center of the bodice were enriched with A few years earlier, in 1946, José R Benítez to Spain in 1808 and extended from the
painting, that dress appropriate clothes trimmings and adornments in the form Cry of Dolores, the 16 of September of
to the year of 1663. The rebozo was used by all social of Jalisco had published ‘el traje y el
of bandages. It was generalized in this classes but mainly by lesser peoples. adorno en méxico’ (78-79), which speaks 1810, until the entrance of the Trigarante
period to wear hanging from the waist Was made in several places of the exclusively of clothing, always referring army to the City of Mexico, the 27 of
On other hand, in the XVII century, to the front a pair of watches, influence September 1821.
with the advent of an ethnic element country, the common ones were made to paintings, prints and even photographs
of the manly outfit. with a fabric called ‘paño de rebozo’. of the times in question. It is a remarkable
that already felt a love for the cradle, In Europe at the time of the fall of the
in which the middle class known as But they were extremely fine. iconographic investigation, from direct
The skirts are shortened until you can page 82 sources in archives and museums. Bourbons, the customs and fashions
‘Creole’ came to form, social concepts see the footwear, its flight is greater and that characterized the old regime
began to change somewhat in. And The indigenous woman wore the large According to him, the fashion had fallen
gradually expand from the hips to pass already evolved ‘huipil’, with a circular into a notable decline by the end of the were abandoned: suddenly the wigs
consequently, the wardrobe, without from the cone to the figure of dome with and the great dresses of the ladies,
leaving to be essentially Spanish, took its collar and sleeves to the elbow, the skirt ...tips, and that it was made with the same nineteenth century and thus, spanning
which is reached until the end of the XVIII. with the shape of a cylinder, and a folded cloth of the ‘casaca’ -coat. The height of from 1500, his book stopped just in 1910. the embroidered jackets and the short
own modalities, new guidelines, which In 1787 appears the casket or the masculine ‘culottes’ of the men were seen as threats
served as a wedge between the baroque canvas was worn over the head (Figure the cuffs is extended by contrasting with
coat adapted to informal feminine 12). The woman of indigenous descent the narrow sleeves.’ and their carriers became victims of terror.
style so accentuated at the beginning of costumes. The bodice was shaped like a
the seventeenth century - a feeling of the incorporated into urban life shows a
ruffle in the back, and the less hollowed suit very similar to that described: the From Europe, the fall of the Bourbon The triumph of the republic,
past - and the ‘churriguerismo’ which at skirt fell in straight folds (Figure 11). This remembered the beginnings of the
the end of the six hundreds characterized shirt adorned by colored ribbons, in kings, marks a change of narrative in the
‘casaquilla’ later reaches its appearance the center of the chest, neck and at the world: the passage from the Baroque of idea of democracy in the Greco-
the unmistakable fashion of his time. in the bodice of ceremony without rib, Roman world and required new things
end of the sleeves, also adorned with the eighteenth century to the triumph
adjusted to the waist by a belt. earrings and pearl necklaces. of the Neoclassical in the nineteenth page 84 that testify the rupture happened. In
At the beginning of the seventeenth architecture it shows elements of Greek
century, the typical dress of the man century. In our mental image is at one side
The garments characteristic of the the scene with Marie Antoinette, causing temples, which tend to echo in the
was the tight ‘juboncillo’ or ‘ropilla’ dress. Fashion diametrically opposite
buttoned in the front, with wrists closed manly fashion of the XVIII century are: echoes in the New Spain but without the TYPICALLY MEXICAN CLOTHES
The hairstyle at the beginning affected full ornamental ends of the French court to the previous styles, the empire dress
in the fist. Above the garment came the conical figure with the help of Celanese Mexicana. Mayo 1950
The coat, a garment that covered from neither in hairstyles nor in volumes. And with the waistline to the bust continued
out the neck, sometimes upwards and ribbons and it is until the middle of the in a skirt of straight tubular form until
sometimes downwards. the shoulders to the knees, was worn on in another facet the images of the Jane
xviii when it reduces its height collecting top of the ‘chupa’; and the latter that Austin’s novels -sense & sensibility- of the the feet. Made in fabrics of great flight
the hair behind the head in a rolled From the sixteenth century
covered the trunk of the body and that, other side of the century, the dawn of the and transparency makes the use of corset
The ‘justillo’ was girded with a belt braid. At the beginning of the last third onwards, Mexico manufactured rich
when reduced becomes the vest. Both eight hundreds. unnecessary and there is no waist marked
that carried the ‘escarcela’ -wipe- to the of the seven hundred, the hair is joined fabrics that included the most varied
garments were usually embroidered as tightly as before.
right. Short trousers, silk or dark velvet at the nape of the neck, wearing combs classes, from the simple cotton blanket
with white stabbing. with threads of gold and silver or rose bertin reigned in Paris as the first to the finest apricots and velvets. At that
of different shapes. Two decades before with colored silks on fine fabrics. The fashion designer in history, but in these In 1813, the constitution of Apatzinagan
the end of the century began to raise time two typically Mexican garments
buttons, sometimes of gold, were used lands, the styles were copied without any proposed by Morelos, abolished the
The silk stockings that had returned to the hair on the forehead forming an appeared, preserved today with the
to decorate cuffs and pockets, and in identifiable creator of fashion or a concept racial classifications (the castas) that
fashion instead of wool. The ‘ferrezuelo’ arch that increases in volume to hide the most varied fabrics ... the sarape and
long series in the jackets. The black - so of “mode” as sophisticated as in France. brought with it the consequence of
with collar turned and in the outline ears under hair bulging with hairpieces. rebozo, which nowadays are used by all
in fashion in the XVI and XVII - begins to Here, more than a way of life, fashion was freedom in the use of the clothes.
eight parallel white ribbons. The long At the beginning of this hairstyle, there our social classes equally.
layer of cloth, reminiscent of... be supplied by the colors of the French a class adjective .
is some small ornament, and then it fashion. Sheer necklines and flowing fabrics,
becomes more like flower bouquets or At the same time, the sarape and
In 1966 in its first editorial run, the was a type of dress that required new
(under gravure) Don Diego Vargas some artificial butterfly. rebozo, like all garments, have
For a little more than the first quarter of the XVII magazine Artes de México published a accessories: at that time Napoleon
Calderón, prosecutor of the royal replaced the use of fabrics and primitive
century, the straight-edged jacket is worn at the volume dedicated to the Mexican dress & entered the near east and from there
audience of Guadalajara in New Galicia As for jewelry, the use of pearl weavings with the finest elaborations
waist and slightly open at the bottom where clothing. Although it contains images such imported a new garment ‘the Shawl’,
and its ordinary mayor, wearing the neck predominates. Was dressed in made in Mexico, by means of the use
it barely shows the ‘chupa’. The cuffs turned as those on page 80-81, it was more of an which covered in brocade was known
in which the ‘golilla’ has transformed. chokers, earrings and bracelets. It was of the acetate thread that, for Benefit
over the sleeves are growing. In 1724 they only anthropological account with an emphasis here as ‘chal’. The carrier wrapped in
Second half of XVII. The original in the characteristic that the ladies were of the Mexican Economy, we have
reach the elbow and by 1730 cover part of the on ethnographic photography. this piece of cloth ventured into the
National History Museum. been producing since 1947.
arm. The tie was completely visible (Figure 13). street, sometimes also dressed in a short
170 171
jacket known as Spencer and at other From the liberator Simón Bolívar periquillo sarniento’ (97). Up to ‘don ((Petimetras, currutacas and who wore nettles and transparent of vengeance! Rise up and judge your
times with the Ridingote - reminiscent - when she was 16 years old and he was catrin de la fachenda’, who identifies pirraquitas)), and the young men mantillas ... here was the sinful thing. cause against those unbelieving defilers,
of a top garment to mount (riding passing through Mexico - to the wise the ‘arrangements’ in his appearance their fellows, also called ((manojitos, who carry the consecrated forms in the
coat) transformed into a female outlet, Alexander von Humboldt and even the with the pure essence of dandyism. currutacos and petimetres)) But the sinfulness increased with what equipage, as the most despicable piece
preferably red. Emperor Augustin de Iturbide (92). was censured by moralists, in prose and of furniture of his train! The same ones
Its presence marks the transition, of a From France came the greatest Oh my GOD! What satires in verse, verse, in newspapers and pastoral: and who have cast the wives of Jesus Christ
Because of the lightness of the garments, woman who lived the court life and later influences, at the triumph of the French what moral sermons in prose, what it was the obscene custom of wearing from their convents, who have forced
there was no place to kept fans or beads on the ways after the Independence war. Revolution the figure of the victors edifying sermons and what edicts so basques very low cut across the back, the wives to sin, who have made a public
for what has become fashionable a re-fit- -the first rebel sub-culture in history, paved with quotations and texts of saints with bare breasts and arms. Such custom appearance in the bayonets of the
reticule - which was soon better known As social change was taking place in was known as ‘Les Incroyables & les and profane authors, were published in was condemned by the Prelate, because women’s breasts: the same ones, or the
as ‘ridiculous’ and is the antecedent of parallel on both sides of the Atlantic, Marvilleuses’ (The Incredibles and the diaries and gazettes and in various forms, ((it was concupiscence fire,)) that would companions who have left in France.
the current handbags. the Napoleonic figure has a strong Wonderful). Knights in fitted trousers, on the costumes and customs of those burn ((the souls)); Dress, (in which the
influence in the Americas’ fashions, a hairstyle of small curls that resembled lords & those gentlemen! quality of the cut and the cloth was Perhaps worse than them: it is those,
For the gentlemen, this classical styles and ideologies. a Roman sculpture known as ‘Titus’. putting before the eyes, even if it were their wives and their daughters, their
influence is not so obvious at first, but Ladies in Greco-Roman vaporous robes. The currutacas themselves confessed concealed, which does not allow to relatives and concubines: these are the
trousers, as closely fitted as possible, of In the struggle for independence, the At the moment of arriving these styles their sins publicly, naively saying that name the modesty2) authors, the original inventors, who, in
a color imitating human skin, sought to heroes, Morelos and the priest Hidalgo to Mexico, with a delay of almost a they were not born either for wives order to destroy our faith and seize us
give at distance the effect of a naked dress as part of the clergy, but also with decade, they are not the uniform of the or for mothers of families. That their Such nudity must have been too crude, from what we have, have introduced
Greek statue. The coat, jacket, shirts sobriety, modern for that time, with a rebellion but just a declaration of break main merit would be to gain public for not only scrupulous archbishops like and propagated in Mexico the style, the
with a tie, hair shaken... are elements black frock coat that closely resembles with the world of yesterday. appreciation, with the brilliance of their Mr. Lizana, writers who had nothing of perverse custom, the abominable and
that we associate with Romanticism that the contemporary male costume. (90-91) exterior in fashions, charms and other prudery or hypocrisy, cried in all tones venomous fashion which the Ladies carry
will be the predominant note in the Luis González Obregón in ‘life in mexico trinkets they carried, because their genius against those fashions of their time, and with their arms and arms uncovered, and
aesthetics of the nineteenth century. In the first two decades of the nineteenth in 1810’ talks about the Currutacas and unfortunate character did not allow described the inconveniences of the a dress the men who ignite and provoke
century, Mexico passed from flaming and the Petimetres (in a bad French them nor take the point of a stocking. suits. In some verses that the author with their eyes the women: these are
In her book ‘historias del bello sexo: Independent territory to a fleeting pronounced ‘á la mexicaine’, Señoritos Her favorite occupations were the entitled ‘The virtue abandoned by those who always grow in pride and evil
la introducción del romanticismo Empire and incipient Republic. = petit maitres), personages for whom latest fashions, the shaves and increase the libertine luxury’, speaking of the inventions in the likeness of the hellish
en méxico’, author Montserrat Galí the fashion was simply and plainly the with new habilities the great flow of currutacas said: spirits, are introducing with diabolical
Boadella tells us that the Spanish crown Leona Vicario, an independent heroine, justification of all their existence (94-96). his pocket. Little did they care there His scandalous outfits, Nude breasts and cunning the flesh-colored stockings
frightened by the French Revolution was an opposite character to the ‘Güera’: were censors of their rags and habitudes. arms and diabolical lace...)) But neither the
and its consequences, prohibited a pioneer journalist, who financed the For Bernardo Olivares Iriarte, a professor Of obscenity are ties quotations of the Holy King Prophet,
the importation of books that could insurgency with her fortune. Both Leona at the Academy of Fine Arts in Puebla, They were only concerned Who put the virtuous of the patient Job, of St. Gregory the
provoke the seditionary spirit on this and the Corregidora are depicted in the it was very clear that indecencies in with inquiring the value and merit of On the most festive days They appear Great, of St. Antoninus of Florence,
side of the sea. But thinking that those high-waisted Empire dress. They are not fashion had come from the hand of a sigh, calculating the priceless price indecent, Incautious and irreverent, of St. Thomas Aquinas, Tertullian, St.
publications aimed at women little only protagonists of the style but also of French revolutionary ideas. Everything of a smile, analyzing the ‘half-step’ With lascivious gestures ... With narrow Clement Alexandrine, St. Augustine, St.
harm could do, it was allowed the the mentalities and circumstances. seems to indicate that the French Tunic robes, the ribbons for the ‘zorongo’, tunics, Francis de Sales, St. Jerome, St. Paul, St.
importation of women’s magazines in was carried in Mexico between 1800 and and the forms of the shoe. The filigrees And colored shoes, John Chrysostom, St. Charles Borromeo,
which inadvertently, the revolutionary Romanticism in Mexico has as ideal that 1824, perhaps until 1829. and embroideries of the little veil, the Ask buyers and other texts of the Bible, from The
ideas came to the ears of women like of a fragile woman. Even when it does ((fancier turns of the fan)) and all those Of their dishonest breasts ... Holy Fathers, Pontiffs, Archbishops
Leona Vicario and the ‘Corregidora’ not do much to ‘liberate’ women as we details and minutiae that made them And in other verses which bear the and Bishops, Synods and Councils, who
Doña Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez. understand it now, it is the stage where advisable in the eyes of pirrocos and title ‘The advice of a mother to her with so much erudition enumerates the
women’s magazines appear, where further petimetres. It was not painful for them daughter’, she tells the latter, talking Pastoral Ministry of the Archbishop
than fashion they set an example of how to to be called (mad), for (mad) mothers about her dress: of Mexico, convinced the currutacas,
behave. Paradoxically, in a world oriented had taught them (to make the courtesy This a costume be, petimetras and pirroquitas, nor cornered
towards the search for Republican values to turn on their heels, to smile at the Who sends her kindly to an ugly one: their dishonest clothes, in spite of the
- equality, fraternity and solidarity pages 96, 97 & 98 sideline, to twist the little mouth, to The tunico will be used, well tight, Very excommunications that in infinity of
- Emperor Iturbide is crowned in a wiggle the Body and give themselves thin coconut taffeta... cases struck many of the venerable and
ceremony based on that of Napoleon, all pomposities)) that made them so holy men mentioned. Because all this
with the tropical exceptions, and instead la vida en méxico en 1810 appreciable and so pleasing in the (next page) [...] steal and canon the came to them by one ear and went out
of being the stylish Josefina, Empress luis gonzález y obregón / 1911 / society of currutacos and manojitos1! Sacred Temples of our Spain: that with for another, and making denmarks and
Ana María is a chubby consort (99). trendo.mx library (facsimilar book) While it is true that many petimetras a sacrilegious ridicule of the mysteries changing conversation, they said to each
honestly wore taffeta and lace basins and the most holy ministries of our other: ‘You say very well, that refuting
page 95 Jose Joaquín Fernández de Lizardi Chapter three to the margin, Mantillas of twill, with Catholic Religion, the Albas and the Fashion has always been majar in cold
writes at that time characters who Currutacas and Petimetres trim of the same velvet, Basques of long Priestly Chasuble are publicly placed iron. Let us speak of something else, for
A woman of great beauty and courteous embodied the romantic spirit. A fringe guarded with Velvet and lace, on the military and petulant dress that the world was always, is now and must
presence María Ignacia Rodríguez de treatise on women’s education in But the characteristic and blankets of anole, or white and airy characterizes them: those same (We be the same’2.
Velasco aka ‘la güera Rodríguez’ was ‘ la quijotita and her cousin ’ of types, typical of the year 1810, with broad fringes, there were also those hardly dare to say it), these same ones
legendary for her conversational skills 1818. A rogue of popular origin - not and of his immediate ones that (the flesh shakes, the spirit faints, and
and apparently the ‘arts of the heart’ so dandy or dilettante - but who preceded and succeeded him, 1. Letter from a young lady. Economic the whole soul contends in saying it),
as she had multiple husbands and was already showed the prototype of Were the madamas who dressed ‘á Weekly of Mexico of Thursday, January the same ones, as in the cakes that have
credited with ‘several’ vip lovers. the idle young man (lagartijo) in the la dernier’, known by the names of 21, 1810, pages 12 and following. stolen the Churches ... Great God, God
172 173
page 1OO (Page 1O2) page 1O6 [...] Ladies are riding on horseback. China Poblana, as it was called. Silks, page 114
They wear a long beaver cloak, crowned imbroideries, beads, shrimps -sequins-: a
Olivares in his ‘artistic album’ of the young female worker: Charming Mme. Calderón de la Barca had difficulty by beautiful black feathers, their hair great luxury outfit was in what became mexico and its surroundings. views,
1876 makes a taxonomy of the Mexican sex, the kindest half of humans, under recognizing, at first, the beauty of the arranged in braids, tied behind and over time’. costumes and monuments’ of 1855 &
costume with the title ‘trages as we find all climates of the earth above ignorance Mexican woman: dangling in two. Without a corset in 1856 (115), its full of visuals by Casimiro
them in the first days of our childhood and barbarism. Regardless of what colors a short Turkish dress, embroidered in A XVII century legend, the one of the Castro, great Mexican lithographer.
by the year 1823’ (1oo). At the center or what dress, the mastery of your grace ‘The beauty of the women here silver, adjusting the bust and showing pious girl coming from India in 1683 and In the texts some different authors,
the European suit, in the page is known extends its beneficial influence and consists of the proud black eyes, the the beauty of the neck’... (109) dead in the smell of sanctity some time like Florencio M. del Castillo in
as ‘trage de tertulia’, but also see the makes men happy, imposing a truce on beautiful dark hair, the beauty of arms and later. ‘The colonel’s scam prospered, its chapter of ‘mexican costumes’:
evolution of the dress in which the ‘waist’ the odious passions that excite them. hands, and her small, well-formed foot. poblanas / ‘Its name is derived from despite the complete lack of logic: the
cut went down from the bust to the waist, NOTE: ‘The dress is made of cotton And their defects: too often they are short town: Poblana, villana. They are ladies costume of the China is from the late ‘...because the Mexican is like the knights
a development that will continue with cloth roughly printed in the country, and too fat, their teeth are often bad, and of the working class, the ladies of first XVIII or early XIX century, almost two errant who has his God and his lady, the
the skirt growing in volume to the huge as well as the fringe. The blanket or the color of their complexion is not the class adopt the style only to the interior centuries after the arrival of the little girl is at his side, with embroidered silk
shape it will take in the 1850’s. And already ‘tápalo’ is a very tight weaved cotton pale olive of the Spanish or the bright of the houses. The essential part of the Indian slave in Puebla. Known in life for petticoat, wearing little shoes of satin,
the rebozo is present, like the mantilla fabric that is called ‘manta’ before being brown of the Italians, but a bilious yellow. suit is the ‘ruboso’ or long shawl, which her heroic humility, the rough clothes and covered the head with the ‘rebozo
and a suit of ‘china’ coexisting with the dyed. It is made in Puebla de los Angeles They strive to put their feet in a shoe half they carry over the head and which are of her sash were transformed into the de bolita’. And together, they will first
traditional clothes of the popular classes. and is also shipped raw to England, an inch shorter, and ruin the foot, destroy almost never removed, either to make red beaver embroidered with sequins, cease to cross themselves, that not going
where it is then stamped (1O3). their grace in walking, and, consequently, the kitchen or to traffic the world. They the lavish shirt that shows the opulence out on Sunday to buy the fruit in the
The Italian Claudio Linati arrived in their movements: This fashion begins, do not wear corset, either the great of the breast, white socks, sneakers, the market place, with the offspring, a type
Mexico to found the first lithographic With the Independence, the relationship fortunately to fall into disuse. (95) ladies or their servants in the long hours invigorating rebozo’... copied from the father’.
press. In 1828 he published the book ‘civil, with the old Spain had been battered. that they use for their arrangement. The
religious and military costumes of mexico’ The king’s representatives by centuries, Fascinated by the figure of Humboldt, the rest of the suit is of different colors and These elements are the symbol of a nation Areas of the Valley of Mexico are
(1o1-1o3). Not only portraying in the the viceroys was forgotten. It was until German Carl Nebel published his ‘journey finishes. [...] The skirt below is all white eager to articulate its own identity and presented, drawn from the perspective
drawing but also describes the customs the war was over and the country was picturesque and archelogical by the most and the girls, even the poorest ones, put when the times of independence required of Cantolla -paper- balloons, and scenes
of the time and gives advice on how quieter than a new representative could interesting parts of mexico’ in Paris in 1836. on a colored canvas, and how they can make its come back as a symbol; To such of the city and the port showing the
young romantic women should behave. be established, except that now he was (1O7-11O) not afford so much luxury they wear an extent that the red skirt, green blouse daily life of the moment.
an ambassador, Angel Calderón de la bare legs and feet’... (11O) & white stockings echoed the flag.
It portrays the past but also the social classes Barca, arriving in Mexico in 1839. Along A China poblana dances, revealing the
of that moment. In the roles of that society with him his wife, a Scottish girl named Traditional moments are reflected in its Preparing to go for a ‘fancy ball’ -in her zig zag of the ‘porabajos’ -pantaloons-
it is observed that the man of the field, in Frances Erskine Inglis, first Marquesa de pages: own words-, the Marquesa Calderon de appearing below the skirt. Her ‘Chinos’
his work clothes, still does not wear the Calderon de la Barca who became an la Barca was fascinated by the brightness dance partners wear the slack pants
characteristic big Mexican hats. And that extraordinary witness of that society. la mantilla / ‘... this suit is totally Spanish, of the Poblana China costume, so she ... but, with ‘huaraches’. A litany of
the open leg with cotton flounces that we so much so that it will be emphasized that made preparations to use one. But she Costermongers used to sell in the
associate with the gauchos is still present In her book ‘life in mexico during a is only used in the mornings by every lady had to repent, faced with high resistance: city, announced by their chants,
and is characteristic of the costume of residence of two years in that country’, of good tone. In the afternoons it is used from the ‘tlachiquero’, the seller of
the ‘Chinos’, the male counterpart of the of 1843 (105), the Marquesa recounts all the French style, since the lady does not page 113 ‘Poco después llegaron más visitas, y ‘chichicuilotes’, to some ‘lagartijos’
‘Chinas’. ‘The lépero, the seminarista, the about her stay in Mexico, first ranting of wear hat, it is wrapped in it. Already at como suponíamos habían concluido, y dressed as catrines. And finally a market
serene, the indigenous maid’ are described the whole experience but progressively night it is carried with her head uncovered. In 1896 Antonio Carreón in ‘history of nos íbamos ya para cenar, nos dijeron que scene, with characters wrapped in
in its pages. In this sense: loving it. In her time, fashions arrived Mexico is not exactly the country of the city of puebla’ ... el secretario de Estado, los ministros de sarapes and ladies covered with rebozos.
from Paris in just two months. The beauties, women are small and the neck guerra y del interior, y otros, estaban en (Pages 116, 117 & 118)
creole landlord, owner of hacienda: shock of abandoning European life and as the mouth are of indigenous type. Even ‘Catarina de San Juan: this el cuarto de dibujo. ¿Y cuál crees que fue
(1O2) In a colony like this, rich in all kinds knowing the local ways make her one of so, they have the most beautiful eyes, princess of the Great Mogol, called el propósito de su visita? Para conjurarme Manuel Orozco y Berra, in the XIX
of production and especially precious the first ‘decent people’ to adopt the well-made waist and pose. They walk in her country Mirra, fell captive of a por lo más alarmante, descartar la idea century, said: ‘to carry well the
metals, in which the founders have ‘china poblana’ suit. slowly with a gracious attitude’... pirate who sell her to a merchant from de hacer mi aparición en un vestido petticoats and the rebozo, one have
subjected the Indians to slavery, alongside Manila, who brought her to Acapulco de Poblana. Nos aseguraron que las to be gentle and courteous, with a
thousands of unhappy people is an (p 1O8) and in turn sold it to Captain Miguel Poblanas eran en general «femmes de gracefully done body, and a lot of style
opulent man who exploits these Vigorous Sosa, Puebla [...] who in the year 1683 rien», que no llevaban medias y que la to wrap themselves: anyone who does
arms to live in luxury and comfort. hacendero / ‘Owner of his lands, stands walked with her to reach that city, esposa del ministro español no debía de not feel the blood warmed by the Sun
out with his daughter and a domestic after she arrived, he informed her that ninguna manera asumir, ni siquiera por of tropics, who does not have a southern
NOTE: Its cloak, called sleeve is a piece of servant, when he finds his administrator she was free and the owner of her own una noche, tal traje’. image, never dress that suit.
blue or green cloth cut in oval and lined and speaks to him.’ The bourgeois will, Sosa had treated the princess with
with painted percale. In between it has an is sartorial, his attire which we have the considerations that deserved her Thus already in the XIX century, China Meanwhile, Don Manuel Romero de
opening through which the head passes. described in the first notebook. And the misfortune and he brought her with was a synonym with girls of low society Terreros investigating the viceroyal
It is bordered with a circle of velvet lined whole difference consists in the richness rich cloths and jewels, and ordered and the ‘poblana’ never means from age, mentions that silk rebozos were
and adorned with fringes that cover the of its applications. The ‘castor’ hat is she was baptized receiving the name of Puebla (poblana-villain). The dress had being made in Querétaro, a hypothesis
shoulders. The vicuña hat, edged inside; adorned with thick gallons of gold, the Catherine of San Juan. an extended geographic area from the corroborated by the census carried out
The jacket, suede, closes as a blouse. It grace of the cloak in velvet and gold. He capital to Guadalajara and Oaxaca. in that city in 1791, in which among the
shows a shirt of fine fabric well pleated to wears a garment embroidered in gold and Carreon suggests that ‘Perhaps Catarina workers of the textile industry there are
the front. The boots are open and folded silver with trousers in frills stopped by a de San Juan and her suit, has origin To end up becoming a clear and universal 45 reboceros, divided in 26 Spaniards,
at the sides. red belt with gold gallons in his boots. the ‘zangalejo’ or ‘castor’ of the adjective of ‘Mexican’. 1 castizo, 14 mestizos, two indigenous
174 175
caciques and two mulattoes. Nahuas, page 122 & 125 Look at that Oriental headdress, or that page 127 The mexican mosaic was published in In 1858, a traveler named Maria Giovanni
Mixtecs and Purépechas, Otomíes, Greek mantle, so reminiscent of a dull the 1830’s and 40’s, which sought the published with help of Alejandro Dumas
people of Tehuantepec and Tenancingo del origen uso y belleza del scene or a [next page] Masquerade. And Pascuala Corona was her education of the ‘beautiful sex’ and had the ‘journal of madame giovanni: in
worked weaving ‘paño de rebozo’. say what can be expected of a ‘trage pseudonym. She lived almost 100 years, a fashion section. australie, aux iles marquises, tahiti,
trage propio de las mexicanas
de Tullerías’, to show off in the Lonja, -just 3 short. Her life from the decade of the nouvelle-caledonie, in californie
In the nineteenth century rebozos vicente munguía / 1851 / trendo.mx
a day after his arrival in Mexico. One the ‘10 in the xxth until the January 2oth of The mexican museum in 1844, with et au mexique’, and as with Mme.
triumphed, but in the colony the library / (facsimilar book) thousand times we preferred those so 2o15. Behind that name - that was in fact references to Madame Virginia’s sewing Calderón de la Barca, tells of the fashion
Marquis of Branciforte in 1794, badly copied figurines, the always brand the name of her nanny -, she was Teresa workshop, a Frenchwoman based in of that time:
prohibited the manufacture in Mexico [...] as others understand it, the new and always pleasant rebozo dressing Castelló Yturbide. She specialized in the Mexico who dominated the Mexican
of fine silk rebozo cloths instead to be germ and the beginning of all the disorder with so natural grace the shoulders of a decorative arts of Mexico, wrote about fashion of the forties. (Arriving in Mexico City ...)
made in Catalonia. But it was already too and corruption that are currently daughter of the country. 30 books: the indigenous costume, the - The most beautiful shops of Mexico
late, it was an established and ubiquitous consuming it. It is of great interest to rebozo, the natural colorings of mexico The calendars addressed to the young are located in the street of the Plateros
tradition. The garment had already been read in the first diary printed in the At the time of which we have just spoken, and ‘the history of mexico through the ladies had the structure of magazines, (sic.). In an instant I thought I was
adopted by the New-Hispanic women in years 1809 and 1810 that the good sense namely, at the beginning of this century, clothing’ of 1988, with Virginia Armella saints and festivals. Sharing articles, transported to the Paris I had left 12
all social classes. In the castes: mestizo, and the real illustration of some men of and even many years later, even though Aspe and Ignacio Borja Martínez. (126) poems and short stories. In addition to years ago. The shops of Plateros street
black and mulatto. Women in society talent, leaning on Capmany’s authority, there might have existed, in all the almanacs also contained information for rivaled in luxury with those of the rue de
wore shawls ‘ametalados’ with gold and complain against extravagance and length of the kingdom or of the republic, This book, published by inbursa, has women: recipes, hair styles and fashion. la Paix and rue de Richelieu. (In ‘La Paix’
silver threads and richly embroidered to ridicule of the first fashions. The truth several mills of yarn shawls, more or a colonial xix century perspective, at that time was Worth’s headquarters)
commemorate important events. is that in the useless court was the satire less ordinary, of which poor people dividing the country’s history into three The week of the mexican ladies of 1851
to prevent their enthronement. And usually make use, is the capital where it slices: the military costume that Borja made in the twilight of the romanticism, - ‘Most of all, most things come
In her 1989 book ‘rebozos y sarapes the hat, the shawl, the tápalo and the was exclusively worked and done until plays, the civilian costume by Virginia the change of styles in the feminine from French shops. I found exactly
de méxico’ Teresa Castelló Yturbide
fichu began to appear where before the 1846, those of silk, shelter of rich ladies. Armella, and the religious costume by fashion from the second half of the XIX. what I would see in Paris in the best
mentions that open communications rebozo dominated. The same thing did Castelló herself. establishments, and fashions do not
with the East, discovered in 1565 and not happen in Guadalajara, even though But if we compare the shawls that came Reading the calendario de las señoritas take more than a month to arrive from
well established as early as 1573, began it was the second city of the Kingdom. at that time from the factories of Mexico, It goes running by the pre-Hispanic and the megicanas of 184O (13O-133) should not France. While there is no difference
commerce through the Nao of China, Already to be more distant of the those that were all moored or false, with conquest, a little further into the colony be confused its editor Mariano Galván in luxury or taste, it is not so with the
arriving in Mexico the Persian Shawl foreign influence: since the inhabitants which they were soon made from a new but really deepens in the nineteenth with the author of the ‘calendar of price. As a rule, an object that costs a
and the Hindu Sari, that influenced may be endowed with a much more fabric, invented in Zamora by D. Vicente century, and after that suddenly stops. the oldest galván’ - an almanac still franc in Paris costs a piastra in Mexico.
decorations on the nascent Mexican delicate taste than can be preserved in Munguia, to whom the Government published in the 21st century. For example a flower cap in the ear of 25
rebozo, that already was being woven an immense and bustling court, when of the Nation granted for the same Of the three chapters the most fitted as Many of the appearing articles are francs, costs 25 piastras ... that is to say
with wool, cotton and the silk produced invaded by some new human barbaric invention, in 1847, a privilege of ten fashion history is the one dealing with translations, some signed by the 100 francs. [..] So I understand that my
by the Mixteca. epidemic. Or because there, shyness years, that some of his emulators wanted the civil garment. Although because publisher explicitly, others as in the charming little compatriots will recreate
and pudor was more extended and more to deprive him, such as he is currently of a strange decision, to say the least, case of the fragment of ‘the angel of the enormous benefits that come from
In 1851 Vicente Munguía print his severe behaviours were in use than in the dispatching at his Zamorano Rebozos is illustrated by modern contemporary the guard’ -comedy unpublished in the selling fashion and lingerie in Mexico.
biography, rare example with name and Capital, the fashions of Europe did not Factory, established in Guadalajara, photos of models wearing historical edition of 1843- remain anonymous ...
surname of someone who made the enter the homes. Only in recent years, on one side of the Caja de Agua. costumes, - they must be decent girls of This fascination with Plateros - now
rebozo industry: ‘rebozo of the origin use as others say, since the last anarchy, they One will find between them the same good families because they are blondies Madero Street in downtown Mx city - is
and beauty of the own trage...’ (120-125)
have imitated among their ladies, the difference that they present to the as boring as a tofú slice - placing the because that was the street of fashion
dresses and uses of overseas, which are view of the connoisseurs, the first badly garments in an anachronic eighties for decades. On 16 September St and
Oddly enough in Mexican cities of the now common in Mexico. drawn of the nascent painting, opposed setting, worthy of a bad videoclip. 5 February St, at that time Portal de
21st century, boys are dressed in cowboy to the best models of the modern way. page 130 Mercaderes y Diputación, was the
clothes, from shirt to jeans. Nobody Nor should it marvel us that, because the 19th century was dressed like this: Parian since 1696: with two floors and
carries Chinaco’s clothes in Mexico or the ladies had been subjected to the By the simple and modest relation that began with the Empire dress / for the ‘the señorita’ about 130 establishments it covered a
the gaucho’s in Argentina ... But the European fashions, there had been lost the own Mungia has directed us of 183Os the waist has gone down, back the part of the Plaza Mayor. There, one
rebozo was constituted to such a degree almost entirely that grace which pleases the first steps that he gave towards his bodice, the sleeves are inflating, are the I visited the hairdressers bought the raw materials: fabrics,
as a Mexican garment, that in the rich so much in the way of carrying the invention, it will be possible to know in balloon-sleeves /around the middle of the From the street of Plateros velvets, maraboues ... to be taken with
society’s weddings of the XXI century rebozo of the other Mexicans, especially some way the penalties he paid to obtain century is the clothing we identify with And at last to my fierce entreaties the glove-, shoe-, and dress-makers of
the dames bring their rebozo hanging those of Guadalajara. And may they, at it, and with such cruelty and without films such as ‘gone with the wind’ / for Come one promised. Plateros in the multiple floors. On the
proudly from the arms. least, be lent to foreigner fashions the reason have their enemies sought to take the 1860s Carlota Amalia will be traveling Monsieur Perruque is called: roofs some ‘greenhouses’ crowned those
graces implied in the national costume! advantage of the fruit of their labors. to Mexico with the giant dome skirts made Hairdresser of great fame: buildings: the photo studios where you
of metal hoops and crinolines. It’s the time Make wigs with machine pose for the photograh with all the
But how can this be so, since in France, We do not know whether the natural of Worth, the father of haute couture. Of steam, which he invented. fashion, illuminated by sunlight.
very few women possess the art of talent of the writer or the rare french hairdressing
easily accommodating with pleasure directness with which it is written In Mexico is the rise of women’s parisian, by company,
to the infinite forms and endless should be admired the most. We insert magazines, the titles proliferate It is written in capital letters
caprices of fashion? Only the dress it in the following, in order to open the whether they were printed in Europe, In Spanish and French.
and the adornments that the peoples examination of the questions that have edited there and printed here or were There are many loops hanging
carry constantly and by a habit never given rise to the lawsuit that, with the national production adapting foreign And two red busts
interrupted, they have the privilege object of annulling the privilege, has materials: The Iris, the Instructor and It has on the cardinal front
of pleasing always to those observing. been raised. the Beehive printing british gravures. An upside down wig.
176 177
page 134 like other members of the public, page 138 Maximiliano ordered that all the Aguascalientes, Mexico City, Oaxaca, Charming photograph, enhanced
had heard of the campaign as another prostitutes of the city were catalogued Mérida, Veracruz, Puebla, Zacatecas. by rich golden copper medallion.
success of the Empire, but probably he ..white shirt, winged hat and semi-sphere marking the price of the services of the Surprisingly enough because in the vast Represents the beautiful lady Doña
knew more than the common about cup, adorned with ‘chapetones’. It’s the girl in question, their likes, abilities majority of cases these -fashion- studies Altagracia de Villaseñor and Cervantes,
news of the empire the particular. [...] In addition he had charro suit we know today. Maximiliano and diseases. They were classified in are always limited to Mexico City. native of Guadalajara. She was the last
several Mexican clients, rich exiles who loved the music played by the ranchers 1st, 2nd and 3rd grades. Jean Moure, a descendant of the Adelantado don
spoke to him enthusiastic of the French in the weddings -marriages in French - Frenchwoman from Orleans, classified Juan Cordero’s painting
‘portrait Juan de Villaseñor and Cervantes, who
Santa Anna in 1843 orders to demolish the works conquering Mexico. [...] In France originating the name ‘mariachi’. ‘of course’ at first. The mestiza in the of manuel cordero daughters’ 1875, in 1535 retired in Mexico. The Padre
Parian to erect a new ‘plaza del volador’ it was said that the invasion campaign middle and the indigenous in the end. shows a significant advance in styles Hidalgo and Don Agustín de Iturbide
in what is now Venustiano Carranza St & was ‘the most beautiful idea of the In 1998 the Museum of Mexico City Racial types determined the type of dress: (148). They all wear brightly colored had blood ties with Don Antonio, and
Pino Suárez St, then University corner kingdom’. And upon receiving Carlota, made an exhibition ‘intimacy, fashion more western, or more indigenous. And clothes in various shades. William Henry therefore the family of Doña Altagracia
with Porta Coelli. This market caught on the Empress herself entrusted Worth and design. mexico beloved’ (139). The since then, as always, that exasperating Perkin in England had invented the must have enjoyed a lofty position in the
fire in 1870 to give rise to the boom of the with dressing her as she required for her curator was Maria Amparo Clausell, Mexican characteristic of making racial mauve color as an accident seeking a court of our First Empire. The portrait,
market of ‘la merced’, and shortly after new role in the nascent Mexican Empire. it comprised live fashion pieces from compartments, identifiable in clothing better medicines. In 1856 his invention made in 1863, is adorable: a quiet grace,
the entrance of the departmental stores 1840 to 1910, accompanied by furniture and determining even the articulation of gave rise to the anilines industry, and a captivating air of distinction which
like the ‘palacio de hierro’. Establishing In 1939, a striking Juarez made of latex - and ambience of the respective eras. desire. (140) thus the gentleman became the great here is the elegance of simplicity, and
downtown Mexico city in the xxth as the Paul Muni the actor in the role was white The book presents the clothes put on entrepreneur of century XIX, raising a sparkling youth, without artifices or
space of merchandise exchange and as aspirin - fights against Maximilian and mannequins in elegant and evocative Some time force field has to exist at the a new culture of colored clothing. shavings, make this figure the seductive
fashion sale. Carlota in a Hollywood production photographs. It gives account of the end of the 19th century, since the great spectacle of select Mexican Creolism.
led by Bette Davis in the role of changes that occur from the restoration majority -if not all- of the fashion books
‘Luz y sombra’ photo of Octaviano de la Mora, Portal of Matamoros
The wife of Santa Anna in 1855 Charlotte of Habsburg. A papier-mache of the Republic. Starting from Carlota’s reviewed including Benítez, Morales,
nº 9, Guadalajara, Jalisco. Collection Murillo Cornadó.
(128) bears the silhouette of the mid- Chapultepec, with a plot punctuated great time dresses, there will be great Castelló Yturbide and Clausell, stand
nineteenth century. Where was the by omens: Carlota arriving in Veracruz changes in the second half of the XIX dry on the border of the xxth century.
liberality of the revolutionary costume is received by a vulture ..., in a film that century. The silhouette will be thinned Mexican lady of 1863. This exquisite
of 50 years before? The world had strangely is only seen each year on French in the skirts, the stowaway will be In the same vein in 2003 with the pagina 145 -147 portrait, irreproachable composed,
become conservative once more. In television on the anniversary of 5th May. invented and by 1875 the volume of the title ‘a lá Monsivaís’ of ‘pudor and is resolved in dignity, elegance and
Mexico, governments succeeded each skirt will remain only in the back, ‘fake lightness: three centuries of fashion in
distinction. They embody the nobility
other, Antonio López de Santa Anna The world of Maximilian was the derriere’ accompanied by a long cloth mexico. the collection of the soumaya of the figure, which represents Madame
was president eleven times. And these triumph of french influence, but at the dragging: the train -the actual tail of the museum’(142), the premise of this small the grace of old portraits Doña Soledad Olaguíbel de Maillefert,
same time a new way of thinking the wedding dress. In 1890 the silhouette in exhibition catalog is short because the enrique fernández ledesma / 1950 / the colonnade of the first term and the
ideological struggles, the art of wasting
trendo.mx library / (facsimilar book) romantic landscape of the background.
time, were the imprint of our country Mexican identity. Carlota’s ladies in an ‘S’, the straight dress and the trumpet nineteenth-century pieces are presented,
ever since. By 1864 Maximilian and improvised court demanded Worth’s skirt, are announcing the arrival of the with only a 1920s flapper dress seen only Photography Montes de Oca. 4th of Plateros nº 6,
Carlota arrived as emperors. garments or at least worthy materials modern dress of the twentieth century. when passing. In only 32 sheets, the city of Mexico. Collection González Montesinos.
to make the good copies. Even so, booklet contains garments and glossary, Mexican Creole teenager. Portrait
In France, the ruler was Napoleon III with the Emperor considered that it was comments about the times and a common made around 1860. Everything is funny
his wife Eugenia de Montijo, at the head necessary to see the Mexican culture destination in all fashion works reviewed, and with an overflowing tradition: the
of a court in which Charles Frederick with different eyes, so he establishes that is the majority of women’s clothing model’s dress, her pose, full of modesty,
Worth, determined as a dictator the the Mexican Museum, and personally and almost forgetting men’s attire. which copies the attitudes of adult
appearance of the ladies. he found great solace in the arms of a ladies: the embroidered strip tip of the
Mexican, ‘the India bonita’ with whom In the mental image of Abraham Lincoln, calzón, which peeks out to cover the
In 1955 the biography ‘the age of worth’ he escapes to near town Cuernavaca. we think of him in a long Levite, sober birth of the ankle. The step as part of
(137) explain the part fashion took in the coat, accompanied by a top hat. At the a ‘minueto’: the gravity of the face and
great argument to convince Carlota of The social life was accompanied by the same time in these lands Benito Juárez the romantic atmosphere that surrounds
the possibility of the Mexican adventure. ruffle sound of huge crinolines, made in carried the same styles, which will the composition ... Everything here is
She was assured she would receive workshops that imitated Parisian haute continue until the time of Don Porfirio. expensive with the painted background,
an endowment of Worth’s creations couture, when poor dressmakers girls representing a Swiss farmhouse. page 153
throughout her reign. The world of the were called the ‘the rinconelli’. During Enrique Fernández Ledesma -brother Photography Montes de Oca y Cía. Calle
father of haute couture was the one of the French intervention, groups of page 141 of Gabriel of the same surname author de Plateros No 6, Mexico City. Col. Fernández de Ledesma.
The ‘elegant fashion:
gigantic dresses, which at night in the sum ranchers confronted the invader: they of the ‘mexican footwear cactlis and madames and mademoiselles’ newspaper’
of luxury, were of a deep white. By day, were the Chinacos, dressed in suede huaraches’ of 1930 (33-35)- wrote in 1938, (next page) Precious gadgets are was published in Spain from 1842 to 1929.
the recent inventions of Perkins’ purple trousers open at their sides, showing the but published it in 1950, his book ‘The jewels of art before which our great- Particularly at the end of the xix century
and the successive anilines he invented, ‘white undercovers’, to close them they From the Empire of Maximilian grace of the Ancient Portraits’. Incredibly grandparents are justly proud. the magazine had a moment of influence in
made clothing as colorful as a flower used buttons of gold or silver on the on, the presence of photography changes profuse, freezing the atmosphere, spirit After the unique copies, come the Mexico, closing the moment of feminine
garden for the first time. sides. Suede epaulettes... the relation between image and fashion. and image of the nineteenth century. visiting portraits, made from the ‘58 or magazines in the style of the 1800s.
Their images arrived before their own There are society chronicles from ‘60 until the beginning of the nineties, The silhouette had changed profusely.
“The Mexican blue was the fashionable arrival. People bought these photos and 1845 to 188o in the work of the most with collodionic negatives, from which The train’s tail had become very
color of the spring of 1863. That blue, added them to their family albums, were remarkable daguerrotype, ambrotypists copies can be reproduced at will. ornate, and then abandoned. The last
like the magenta and green of the they also added the ‘cards du visite’ -sort and photographers working in Mexico Copies, certainly, memorable, made in vestige was the stowaway that by 1890
Crimea, reflected the military adventures of a business card, but instead you leaved City and other parts of the country, that exquisite paper treated to albumin, was no longer fashionable. (149-151)
of the second French Empire. [...] Worth your picture to the people you visit. exhaustively covering Monterrey, sepia, violated cardinal.
178 179
xx century th
catrinas show the style in vogue in the haggling. Clothing and fashion materials
Austria of Emilie Flöge, the designer are now purchased here. (Page 155)
friend of Klimt, seen in Mexican cities
with the equivalent big hats. The straight French is common language, the ‘good’
cut still in a corset. It is recognized the surnames are the ‘Limantour’, the ‘Cusi’,
influence of the pinafore in the baby the drinks and the gastronomy are
clothing in the same image, even the preferred European.
page 197 Dolores del Rio and the looks of Pedro and economic resources. People had
elegant woman uses ‘Liberty dresses’ in a Now, in the 21st century, Mezcal rose
Armendariz. Although nobody seems only one change of clothes.
way (152). The prototype of the Gibson from the bottom of social class and
we learned this from the great to remember, it was the first social
Girl, the silhouette in ‘S’, poses a different became a trend in the hipster mexican
guerrilla leader. fashion and freedom! revolution of the twentieth century. In contrast, the wealthy class began
The stable world of the Porfirio Diaz aesthetic than it had been the romantic neighborhoods. But then, one hundred
1910, seven years before the Russian to populate the exclusive Rome
regime (154) was about to be transformed woman: now it was a modern woman. years ago they have to disguise tequila
The ‘dernier cri de la mode’ is revolution. (Just like the return of the neighborhood. Among them, the ‘white
not only by the Mexican revolution as whiskey for people to accept it. (153)
the one you give by yourself. Enough with PRI -the mexican ruling party- in the 21st kitten’: Maria Conesa - first singer of
of 1910, but also by the incredible The Centennial celebrations of
tacky molds and elegant rags. You have century is the first retro revolution before the ‘tandas’ (that is, star of the stage).
technological changes that influenced Independence are received with a dinner In the cities the upper classes trying to
to dress like Mick Jagger, Buddhist monk, Brexit, No in Colombia and Mr. Trump) That at a young age already delighted
new attitudes at the turn of the century. lighted by Electric light!. Don Porfirio live as europeans do not suspect what
silent movies’ Vamp, Aztec warrior, Sor the audience not only for her talents
seeks to present styles and celebrations is about to happen. In the street some
Juana, vietcong, Tongolele, minstrel ‘Soldaderas are more typical in their for singing but for the ‘eroticism’ of her
Charles Frederick Worth during his long that try to rediscover the pre-Hispanic past. pretty catrinas walk irresponsible while
or (just look at those t-shirts here!) customs and character. They are covered performances.
career of almost 50 years introduced three entering the city, the army of Pancho
Zapatista. Fonky put the revolution on with rags and are unaware of the use
great transformations in the silhouette. There is a ‘neo-aztec’ style in pavilions Villa. (156)
them. Sons of a gun! It’s like rolling as of soap and shoes. [...] accompany the Her dress (199) once again corseted,
The twentieth century awakens thanks and furniture. The high society fully
a mustachioed guerrillero down the husband in his military marches [...] on the recalls the image of ‘Bernhardt’ in
to a reform of the dress: suffragists influenced by France sees the ‘Mexican’ The elegant races at the Hippodrome
street, the movies or Chapultepec Park battlefield carry water to the wounded; Mucha’s ads with 1O years of delay ...
struggled to free themselves from the with disdain. of ‘la Condesa’ will soon be only a
without running the risk of being killed. And strip the dead of the dress, leaving The S-shape , out-of-style in the world,
corset, Amelia Bloomer invented the memory: the world of the Adelitas and
By the way, this Zapatista T-shirt is just only a sock to the officers so that they will be maintained here during the ‘1Os
pantaloons declaring freedom from the In 1890, the palacio de hierro opens the Revolución will show the teeth of
a preview of the new and fun Fonky can be recognized in their category. decade when Revolution did not allow
skirts, Orientalism brought with it the its doors, bringing to Mexico the the Catrina Death (158-159) to receive
line. You will see!. And as we said the so many ‘frivolities’and so, immediate
silhouette of the kimono. concept of European buying and selling. modernity and a new century.
clipart in this section / adolfo best maugard / método de dibujo... / 1923 / colección trendo.mx
Fonky t-shirts are made with materials [...] they know how to cook, sew and adoption of fashion trends was delayed.
The influence reached Mexico, and the Fixed prices are inaugurated, without
of the highest quality, despite its cool wash their husband’s clothes, but they
price, Yep. Only $37.50 from 6 to 12 and do not iron it, [...] they have absolute
$39.50 from 14 to 40. Exclusive, original fidelity and unconditional self-denial
tito ortiz monasterio / http://tamalesyatole.deviantart.com/ 2014 creative commons
designs, in the most striking mothproof for the husband. And second degree
colors. Waterproof cotton chamois, compliance with the officers of the
does not shrink nor a tris, indeformable. battalion or regiment.
Firm, eternal stamping. It’s just a matter page 202
you get it, that you by yourself shout: These women who accompanied the
Fashion and freedom! troop, were able to feed the battalion
Par, S.A.
and traveling by train they knew all the
localities of the country. At the end
the fashion line
Fonky.Cool clothing. Liverpool, Paris of the revolution they would arrive
London, Climax, Palacio de Hierro, in mass, to live in the city a life of low
The abandonment of the corset
Sears Roebuck, Woolworth, Comercial neighborhoods.
is the obvious sign. Although it was
Mexicana, Aurrera, Suburbia, Radar. actually gradual, or very specific. Only
The men in low class used to wear
those with extraordinary bodies in tune
trousers and a shirt or blanket, went
with the great dancer Isadora Duncan,
barefoot or with huaraches, whereas
could revive the Greek ‘Chlamys’
the more prosperous ones liked to dress
without wearingstructure underneath.
the ‘European’, wearing trousers, jacket,
shirt and footwear. (196) [...] According
The beginning of xxth century saw a brief
to writers of the time, the women wore
revival by the Empire dress, culminating
huipil without wearing any footwear or
in the Delphos dress by Mariano
they carried petticoats of percal or ‘skirts
page 198 Fortuny. Although, soon the waist was
wide and stiff’ and rebozo of bolita.
lowered to mid-thigh by the influence
mexican revolution Toilet was not at the order of the day,
of the kimono. (210)
nor was there running water, and also
In Europe after Poiret, the Chanel
‘La bola’, the Adelitas (157) and the soap was so expensive that it would
silhouette, apparead. Fighting for more
the rebels we are used to see aseptically reduce 25% of the income of these
practical clothes for the women of the
on television, is the staged version of people. The clothes were not washed
world. Do not forget this was only for
what happened: Starring the beauty of too often, there was shortage of water
the young and risky. At the same time
180 181
Lanvin proposed the ‘robe de style’ pages 204-205 -The half circle cut horizontally, used page 207 covers of Vanity Fair magazine. Among frankly indigenous people wearing the
(219) a revival of Marie Antoinette’s separately or continued in the form the exotisms that he captured in his most modern clothes imaginable, make
silhouette with a giant hip, which was of ‘M’. Possible representation of the Adolfo Best Maugard was the career are the portrait of the Mexican him an extraordinary designer, a pioneer
for matrons, married women, all those método de dibujo tradición moon, rainbow, etc. author of the book, he was the head Itsmo in his ‘Mexico South’ (52-55), of Mexican elegance.
without the silhouette of a ‘young boy’. resurgimiento y evolución del -The motif of the ‘S’, or ‘curve of of the department for teaching arts in his studies of the Island of Bali (208),
The hairstyle in trend was the ‘Bob’. beauty’, as it is called in Greek art, schools and with his book had influence to his sketches at the rhythm of jazz And probably the best illustrator of
arte mexicano (facsimilar book)
With short hair of sorts, the front reaches formed by a half circle upwards and on thousands and thousands of children in in the incursions in the Harlem night. fashion in the history of the country.
Adolfo Best Maugard / SEP / 1923 /
the height of the jaw, but behind it rises another downwards forming a true S, the 1920s. Sketches almost equal to those in the
colección trendo.mx
above the nape. Pelonaaaaas! They were one after another united, forms the work of the ‘Chango’. Unfortunately in XXI century fashion
shouted, at the door of San Ildefonso well-known motif that suggests the He set himself with the task of identifying education, illustration is one of the
... it crosses or becomes entangled, or is
High School. (211, 214, 215) movement of the waves. which elements were common to the Ernesto García Cabral, an extraordinary greatest and permanent dangers of
concealed or suggested in vain; Everything
-The wavy line, probably representing ancient cultures and particularly to the draftsman, began in the political mexican fashion. Pretext for exercises of
is in view, everything is at once impressed,
The fashion of the flappers, or modern the ripple of the water, or the serpent, is pre-Hispanic arts, concluding that all caricature and, since the decade of the more affectation than style, is drowned
everything is synthetically represented,
girls, was very limited to Mexico City. formed by a half circle upwards, joined ancient art was based on five basic forms. ‘10 already published his first covers. in gestures, strokes and eyelashes of a
everything lives its own life and yet, by
Cultural divas such as Tina Modotti, with another half circle downwards, and (2O3-2O6). The student had to rehearse Juan Jose Arriola mentions that once, transvestite show. Forgetting that the
relation to the surrounding things around
Antonieta Rivas Mercado and Nahui so on. with them and then combine them into Rivera and Siqueiros answering the good design is not for the exaggerated
it, everything lives and harmonizes with the
Ollin pose in the photos with their eyes -The zig-zag line, surely the stylization frames and ‘patterns’ under a series of question - who was the best cartoonist but for the complexity of form and
rest, as if it were of a musical chord. Plus,
covered with deep black shadow, styles of the ray, which is also used vertically, rules: never to cross the lines, not to draw in Mexico? They answered in unison: function. Bad illustration, with giant
in each and every one of its insignificant
learned from the silent movie stars. horizontally or diagonally, in- in perspective, etc. the Chango! signature, and terrible prismacolor
details, we always recognize some of the
and charcoal effects. An example of
fundamental reasons that make us feel, that
This aesthetic is present even in some page 206 (continue facsimilar book) Once started in the ornamental, the Cabral could take the country scenes of everything bad an equivocal process of
constitute the own and genuine Mexican
portrait of a very young Frida Kahlo book contained exercises to represent an idyllic Mexico (201), very much in tune teaching can make, one that privileges
expression.
posing in a young man’s suit with -tegrated by a simple line or by parallel the flora and fauna ‘me-xi-ca-nas’. Once with the ‘Method’, but without staying the drawing of awful Disney princesses
smeared hair. lineswith more or less open angles. all these dominated, the pupil went in to there. He portrayed the nightlife of the instead of good design processes.
As we have said before, our study is based on
The straight line is used vertically, truly complex exercises: people, animals, capital and on his covers of ‘Revista de
the seven primary elements characteristic
Shortly after, Frida suffers her infamous horizontally or diagonally, preferably in culminating with the national coat of arms Revistas’ (211-217) he embodied the most Certainly not so in the case of ‘Chango’ ...
of Aboriginal art. We will not deal with its
accident and is immobilized in her bed parallel. and the figure of the virgin of Guadalupe. absolute and surprising Mexican urban
symbolism but will simply consider them
without being able to do anything. Her chic, which does not ask for anything What was used on the street at the
from the aesthetic point of view. These
father took, almost obliging, a small There is no rectangle or square Not only Frida Kahlo, but also Abraham from the illustrations of the ‘ Gazette du time? - Maria Teresa Landa (214) was
motifs have in our art the peculiarity that,
didactic book: (rhombus) as a primary motif, for it is only Angel, were influenced. Best Maugard Bon Ton’’ of those same years and that a girl of extraordinary beauty, in 1928
when combined are never crossed nor
‘the method of drawing, tradition, used as a hieroglyphic form to represent had already fulfilled his dreams of the established him at least to the level of she was named the first ‘Miss Mexico’
intertwined, which, aesthetically speaking,
emergence and evolution of mexican attributes of Fire, or other things such Mexican identity, like the time around fashion illustration titans such as George representing our country in the
is the absolute purity of each line, as we
art’ that had just been published by the as a day of the week, numeral 1O, etc. 1919, in which he collaborated with the Lepape and Paul Iribe. competition in Galveston, Texas.
can follow it and never feel the clash
mexican government in 1923. (203-206) The same happens with the triangle dancer Anna Pavlova - from ‘The Russian
with another intercepting it. Therefore, it
that represents the numeral 3, with the Ballets’ and therefore being only one At a very young age married with a
makes us feel the expression of each line
After the revolution José Vasconcelos lines in the form of cross that represent degree of separation of Paul Poiret’s General of the revolution, coming back
without its harmony being broken, and
was at the helm of culture in the the numeral 4, etc. Therefore, we must fashion in Europe - to make her dance a from her beauty journey she discovers
this also makes all the manifestations of
country. With the aim of finding ways of refrain from using them, for they are not ‘Mexican Fantasy’ dressed in a...China the guy is already married -bigamy!, and
our art have a great clarity. Each thing lives
expressing and articulating the Mexican strictly decorative motives, but rather Poblana dress!! in the fight about it, in self-defense …
by itself, isolated from the rest, although
identity, he gave impulse on all fronts hieroglyphic representations. she kills him.
harmonized with the rest. This, at last,
to the arts, to muralism, to new forms in With his work and influence he establishes
constitutes one of the most beautiful
dance, literature and of course, drawing. The motif of the wavy line in certain nationalist roots in the arts, that soon During the scandalous trial, which the
characteristics of Mexican art, and is surely
regions of the Republic, suffers an will be in the subconscious of the designs press of the moment collects in detail,
what can make it far superior to the arts of
In the ‘method’ what Frida found was alteration similar to the one of the and the fashion of nationalistic intention page 212 it was caused such an expectation that
other countries.
a series of steps to express ‘Mexicana’ spiral, developing in quadrangular form, during the rest of the century. speakers were installed on the streets in
through the arts. like a crenellated one. order to hear the trial by radio.
ORIGIN AND SIGNIFICANCE OF THE
His legendary social life, in which is said, His drawing goes through the
SEVEN ELEMENTS
Things that we find throughout the THE SEVEN ELEMENTS OF MEXICAN ART he discovered and promoted Dolores styles of the time, from art nouveau
country and which we believe to be very del Rio, frolicked with Frida and Diego, to art deco. The Mexican decó was The fashion of the accused, in
The primary elements of almost all
Mexican, as those strips carried by little The first element is the spiral developed and was close to Miguel Covarrubias enriched with pre-Hispanic motives, complicated mourning suits and
cultures, in their first attempts at art, are or
birds with written signs in it (2O9), the either to the left or to the right, in a and even to Chango ‘Cabral (209). This although in the world at the time, art sensational hats, along with her beauty
can be reduced to variants or variations of
way in which nature is represented in a simple or double, more or less closed three together drew an arc of influences deco was known with several other created a media circus that surprisingly
the line and the circle. These primary signs
thousand ways in crafts. All of those are way, and which, sometimes, when that embraced creators of all kinds at that names and among them: ‘aztec airlines’ leaved her absolved. Devoting the rest
were sacred things and objects of worship,
expressions originated in the method ... harmonizing within parallel lines, takes beginning of the century and that will allusion to a Mexican influence. of her life to being a teacher.
for they represented the gods.
the square form. be decisive in a ‘minor’ art: comics, from
which will emerge the fashion pioneer After a time of studies in the Paris of 1912, Whole generations were marked by the
- We have the spiral, developed to the right
The second element is the circle or Ramón Valdiosera Berman. (224) for the decade of the 20, his characters: political drawings of Cabral, but also
or to the left.
circumference, which is used in a a girl combed ‘a lá garçon’, a ‘modern the elegance of his line will propose new
-The circle, surely the stylization of the sun
concentric way either alone or next to Covarrubias in the thirties lived in the woman’ driving her own car, and more ways for a fashion that is imminently on
and the other stars.
others in ... United States and from there illustrated than once girls of mestizo faces or the verge of finding its pioneers ...
182 183
page 220 would be her last American film to sell services to the national and american and casually there was also the workshop In England it is still called that, although Mexican fashion, arguing:
continue her career in Mexico within publishers in exchange for royalties. As of the ‘father of mexican fashion’. He in the United States the name of the _Henri de Chatillon - ‘Impossible.
a cinema of ultranationalist values. well as training their associates. All of remembers him as an extraordinarily well- tone was transformed from shocking to Mexico is very backward, there are no
In the 1930s, the PRI was In vintage images, the giant shoulder which sounds super professional until dressed young man, prone to the company hot pink in the 50’s and kinky pink in the materials, the fabrics are useless and
founded, with its antecedent the PNR. pads, the voluptuous skirts, and the you notice that the promoter of the of very good-looking ladies, who would 60’s. It is not common in the twenty-first could not compete with the European,
Both the Maximato and the Cristero war platform shoes show that Dolores was idea has just turned 18, and his closest later become his models and muses. century to hold this name, only happily and less with the North American’
ended. The feminine hairstyles are not the epitome of fashion and trends of her collaborators are between 16 and 17. in Mexico we know it well and we will
so short anylonger and now is used to time, an issue that would continue in her With the initiative of its multiple always call it that. _ Armando Valdés Peza - “There is no
accommodate it as little waves thanks to life in Mexico (222). Ramón Valdiosera, the noted promoter businesses, film direction, the design finesse, we do not have an elegant and
pincers and curls. is revealed as a talent in drawing but also of handicrafts, Valdiosera, of course, This exchange of identities, what refined culture that lends itself as the
The Mexican cinema walked in two as a character full of imagination and entered the world of fashion, but from Mexico sended, what the United States Greek, we are as culture still not mature
Cosmopolitan fashions are displayed narratives, on the one hand films entrepreneurship in all kinds of creative several fronts. A school of models, which gave back, is shown in the late 30’s when in terms of fashion”
on vitrins in Mexico city. The image of like ‘la mujer del puerto’ (Boytler, adventures. : D is recorded in a set of photographs from the General Motors company set up
the ‘Arrow Man’ (218) came from the 1934) presents the dangers of urban the general archive of the nation trucks called ‘futureliners’ with exhibits The discussion even bring the notion
United States and was the work of J.C. societies with loss of values of course ‘the black diamond’, ‘shanghai’, ‘bill (23O, 231), which at the same time taught showing advanced technologies such as that the Mexicans’ body was not
Leyendecker, one of the most interesting showing cosmopolitan fashion, and in the daring millionaire’ and ‘clark’ are techniques of drawing and painting. the microwave oven and TVs. Called aesthetic enough to become a canon.
fashion illustrators of the early twentieth counterpart ‘Allá en el Rancho Grande’ his first stories. His career in comic book Another set of images of the AGN, in this ‘The Caravan of Progress’ traveled Materials, aesthetics and tradition were
century. These famous shirts were (Fuentes, 1936) embodying the idyllic drawing will reach until the 50’s. case of the archive of the Mayo brothers, through Canada, the United States and not enough for them: only the idea of
characterized by, the customer being country life, traditional values, and shows Valdiosera adapting artisan Mexico. Arriving here, and depicted in copying from abroad a national fashion
able to use the base of the shirt - sleeves peasant clothing. That is the same The ability to make very complex techniques to make painted fabrics with a curious series of the Archivo Diaz in that would forever be only a reference
and body - with several sets of cuffs and dilemma that would arise in fashion by narratives, not precisely comic but nationalistic motives, that later applied to the AGN shows models with Mexican to the outside. >: /
necks, in order to change daily a fresh the pioneers Valdiosera, Chatillón and with a sense of humor, that understand his dresses designs. clothing learning in each of the trucks
and clean spare, while the shirt was used Valdés Peza. what the reader wants and keeps him the advances of the future technology. Fortunately, our hero replied:
all the week. In this more expensive interested, are all characteristics, which He decided to convince the public ‘that
and elegant version, it highlights the A 1938 movie ‘los millones de chaflán’ could summarize what it takes to create it was possible to make a Mexican fashion, _ Valdiosera - I believe that the
neck of bow tie. The booties seen here, sums up these worries, a provincial an efficient fashion brand. vigorous and of great personality’, as he gentlemen, in order to think, one in
have attached to the instep a structure gentleman wins the lottery, and told us in ‘mextilo, the film’: ‘a mexican France and the other in Greece, do
that resembles the leggings of two millionaire overnight is spending the In the comics medium, the so called fashion, with mexican materials’. : 0: D not know the country. They ignore the
decades ago. In the women’s case there great life. A fashion runway appears 9th art, he is known as the ‘father or native materials, fine silk fabrics, delicate
is a Spanish mantilla and shoes that are on the film! With Palacio de Hierro mexican comics’. Few, very few people fragments and beautiful embroidery,
much more practical than those of men, clothing, incredibly similar to George should be... page 227 and above all the collection of our past
because they are already closed with Cukor’s ‘the women’ of 1939. cultures in their type and personality “
straps and buckles instead of the rows of pages 226
buttons of the men’s boots that had to While this was happening, people
be closed with a crochet. ...so decisive in two disciplines as With that beginning, in 1949 when on the street consumed magazines
apparently different as fashion and comics. Valdiosera was 31 years old, it was like ‘Paquita’ that existed since 1936
Nationalism is seen both in publications declared the first ‘week of Mexico’ in NY. and translated American materials,
(221) and in popular music and outdoor Both based in drawing, Valdiosera The Master tells us: ‘since it was Hollywood trends and patterns for the
shows that were held in public forums himself complains that the comic book in impossible to obtain only Mexican
such as the newly opened Lindbergh Mexico did not have the space of growth materials, I realized that the color of (232, 233)
Auditorium in Mexico Park at the Capital, that enjoyed in the United States, so only handicrafts, the tone of the popular
singers like Lucha Reyes performed. certain entrepreneurs being enriched. breads and sweets, the shade favorite Page 234
Although his drawing curiously tends to of indigenous peoples is that of the
Even so, only a few brave women chose page 224 orientalism and the exotisism in comics, bougainvillea. I hoped that Mexico
the native costumes to perform at grand the series of choices that will lead him to could have a tourist attraction that
gala events, as seen in photos where Frida become the champion of nationalist values people would identify. I made
Kahlo appears in traditional dress among once again, valdiosera in fashion, rely on his ability to undertake embroidery, applications and textiles in the radio waves
men of Frac and ladies in evening gown. his research on the Mexican culture, and all painted in that color. The Mexican of XEW station, there was a program housewife to make their clothes, DIY
Ramón Valdiosera was born in 1918 in the possibility of using drawing as a tool models that we carried moved in a called “green moons” produced by was very common. (235-237)
The cinematography captures much Ozuluama, Veracruz in Mexico. not only for expression and artisticity but rhythm between traditional Mexican Alvaro Gálvez who invited a panel page 240
of the imagination of the country and Cartoonist, painter, watercolorist; Of for design. dance and ballet poses, which surprised of fashion personalities and Mexican
a character like Dolores del Rio shows course Father of Mexican fashion ... but the American press that outlined the culture to discuss about the existence
the possibility of triumph from Mexico Antonio Caballero, the great Mexican birth of a new color: the mexican pink. or not, of an identity for a Mexican
to Hollywood. From her discovery in
it is not so well known that for more
than 20 years he was a professional photographer known in the circuit of art Fashion. henri de chatillón
the mid-twenties to the end of the 30’s, cartoonist. and galleries for having been the creator In the national perspective we still The announcer Pedro de Lille, the Not so flattering ‘The
she played important roles in the silent of the genre of the fotonovelas, tells us continue naming that tone as ‘mexican’. journalist Rosario Sansores and the portrait of the hatter’ painted by Diego
film industry making the transition to In 1936, with the American model of that he knew Valdiosera when Caballero But curiously in the world since 1937, three pioneers: Armando Valdés Peza, Rivera about Henri de Chatillón in 1944.
the ‘talkies’. In 1942 she began filming ‘Union features syndicate’ he founded did his first photographic exercises with the year in which appeared the perfume Henri de Chatillon and of course Ramón A rare piece, since it does not fit into
“Journey to Fear” in which she used a in Mexico ‘United Artists’. In order to Héctor García in offices in a building at the Shocking! of designer Elsa Schiaparelli, Valdiosera Berman. The position of Diego’s nationalist canons. And it seems
strange feline romper (223) and that very beginning of the street of Bucareli, the color is known as Shocking Pink. the first two was the impossibility of a to have been commissioned by some rich
184 185
client of the painter and the dressmaker. dollars. With so many businesses, the have their creations at hand, becoming now, instead of just being beautiful, they page 256 is no continuity in which a Mexican
On October 17, 1949 Time Magazine bachelor Chatillon is too busy to think very close friends. also had the attribute of being ‘exotic’. house of fashion survives its creator in
published a note about the designer: about social activities. ‘I married my In the case of Dolores del Río, he made Kalantan, Tongolele, are new types the sort we used the European houses
hats,’ he tells us. the costume of flor silvestre and maría of beauty that challenge the aesthetic the song of mexico do, where they succeed generations of
‘Son of a British father and a French candelaria (Indio Fernández, 1943 and canons of the ‘conventional’ and the creators under the same roof and with
mother - although some people doubt it The photographic portfolio was made 1944) and doña perfecta (Galindo, 1951). ‘decent’. But it is not only the case of Used to all kinds of stereotypes the common denominator of a firm:
and even say that he came from Pachuca, by Antonio Caballero, who reminds women, as we see in ‘el rey del barrio’ (68), the image of the Mexican is fixed Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, etc. .
Mx -. Monsieur Henri was born under us that in his treatment, Chatillon Turning at least ‘paradoxical’ his (Martínez Solares, 1949), there is a new through the kitsch imagery of our
the name Henry Hutchinson in Paris in was a somewhat pompous and effete statements in the radio program, and type of ‘heartthrob’. Germán Valdés identities. Little would we expect one That will be one of the great signs of
19O2. He arrived in Mexico in 1942 - in gentleman (241, 242) later his views in the magazine ‘nosotros’ ‘Tin-Tan’ is the Pachuco par excellence. of the most delirious fantasies of our the consolidation of our fashion: when
193O according to other sources - and 1949, where he makes the stance with own ‘Mexicanity’ was made in Paris at a brand lives more than ten years, it
set up a shop under the name of henri the opinion of the impossibility of a Oversized clothing, cross-section of Chatelet Theater in 1951. becomes a profitable business and can
de chatillón, milliner, on the Paseo de Mexican fashion. If something captured giant shoulder pads, trousers with mid- survive its founder.
la Reforma in a mansion that belonged absolutely, and even fixed the values waist, front and back tweezers, which Later on the play became the film:
to the mistress of Emperor Maximilian. of our identity, were the series of has a leg cuff with button included to ‘le chanteur de mexico’ (Pottier, The fifties will bring the consolidation
(Reforma 260, in the Palm roundabout) films in which the gaze of the Indio control the excess fabric. ‘Caifanes’ 1956). But in France they consider it of big department sotres as an influence
Fernández, the cinematography of are named.- The phrase came from his quintessentially Mexican, even though on fashion through the landing of
Their first hats were as fantastic as they Gabriel Figueroa, the Mexican beauty of way of speaking: a mixture of words in for us it is almost impenetrable in its trends and brands of haute couture,
were expensive, but they still sold like hot Maria, Dolores and Pedro Armendáriz, Spanish and English. Praising the fall of exoticism. That vision to date continues the continued presence of our classic
cakes. And sometimes they were almost were the elements which combined, their cloths, they asked: to exist, collections dedicated to Mx as designers and new ways to be sexy and
edible: Chatillón discovered that if he respond from the cinema with the same - Cae fine?. - Is it fine? Not only was inspiration take from everywhere from elegant in the city.
heated steamed tortillas, molded them force than muralism, or the novel of the language, also the music, with them ‘Apocalipto’ (Gibson 2006) to Speedy
and then varnished them, he could make the revolution. And it would not be will arrive the first rhythms that later we González looking for that essence that page 258
a salable hat. He made other headdresses conceivable without the clothes, designs will know with the name of ‘rock’. we deny ourselves. But for example in
with palma, the fiber that Mexicans and fashion of Valdés Peza. Chicano imagery, in the painting of old
use instead of wool, and the cheap The silhouette of the ‘pachuco’ is calendars, in the mustaches of Frida, in
straws with which the saddles are made. n the chronicles of society it was said based on the ‘zoot suit’, the suit and all these things makes presence, that
that on the balconies of the Opera of the identity with which the african inasible essence.
In 1947 he extended the business from Fine Arts, the ones that shone the most americans of the United States, at the
millenery to dresses, and thus it has page 247 were: Valdéz Peza and Trixi -who signed time of World War II began to use as In the fifties in Mexico the policy
become the Mexican referee of fashion. the majority of the articles of fashion their own version of urban formality in revolved around the idea of the
With 78 workers and a production Perhaps the Mexican equivalent in the following decade-. Valdés Peza costume. With the war, the ‘Bracero’ ‘stabilizing development’, a model that
of 1Ooo dresses per year. Some of to Edith Head is the designer Armando was a social chronicler in universal with program demanded that thousands sought to substitute imports, favor the
his inspirations come from Mexican Valdés Peza. the column ‘chronicles of mexico’, of Mexicans go to work to meet the domestic market and stop inflation. With
things, his fabrics are woven in Mexico, when he died the writer Luis G. Basurto production needs of the American such good results that even it was known In 1958 when the ‘el palacio
but his designs are mostly Parisian. Fortunately, he maintained friendship inherited. Which shows that like Best fields. And when they returned they as ‘The Mexican Miracle’. Economic de hierro’ opened the Durango Street
with Salvador Novo, who knew him as Maugard, he was also a creator, an active had adapted that fashion and with stability and growth - words unknown branch, there were only two stores. Very
Chatillon has made the business of ‘Mandy’ and refers multiple times to him socialite of the top Mexican circles. that the Chicano identities were born, to later generations. Allowing the rise distant from the 23 stores that now, 67
surprising his clientele a one of million in his chronicles of ‘la vida en méxico’ ‘neither here nor there’. of new generations of fashion creators. years later they have. Things that we
pesos a year. Half an hour before the (the life in mexico) in the successive think are very modern, such as credit and
opening of the annual runway, the Packards presidential terms he narrated, recording From Pachuco to Cholo, we are pedro loredo. He began his fashion the repayment of a part of the purchase
and Cadillacs, from the unpunished the life of the designer. constantly evolving. In 2002 Federico career in 1953, sought to imbue his work in ‘coupons’ were already present from
Mexican midwives of the high society, Gama, the same author of the series of with pre-Columbian influence, created this time and stimulated the spending
stop traffic in front of their workshop He died in Mexico City on the July 1st Mazahuacholoskatopunks (15,16), had coordinated suits in 1957 that became through aggressive seasons of offers. (259)
and residence on Paseo de la Reforma. of 1970 of a massive infarction, in his made the series ‘Top models’ where fashionable throughout the world until The same in the Palacio, in Liverpool
residence. He was the grandson of the he parallels the image of fashion with the following decade and transparencies store, in the Puerto de Veracruz store,
Inside, they drink cocktails and judge poet Juan de Dios Peza. He was an cholos de L.A. Who now live in Ciudad in organza with pre-Hispanic motives in the ateliers of dressmakers, and
the French and American models that actor and writer, worked extensively Nezahualcóyotl in Mx City. With from 1962. He presented In New York, the great social occasions were held
show 6O models from afternoon suits, in theater costumes, but even more the same dandyism of the yesterday and in Europe. Its name is associated fashionable catwalks that were later
to gown dresses of open shoulders in the creating the fashion of Mexican cinema. pachucos, living now urban identities. with the creations of beauty contests commented in the social press
rank from 1,5OO to 5,OOO pesos each. Ninety-seven films were his creation. (251-254). The ‘Homies’ are a continuous like Miss Universe. And manages to of the time. (261, 264)
Among the clients: Marga López and Beginning with ‘yo bailé con don page 248 sample of that identity (255). What have a presence on the important
Dolores del Río. porfirio’ (Martinez, 1942). inspires the ‘Malafacha’ brand to take catwalks until very close to his demise The female silhouette follows the
the Pachuco and explore it on a winter on December 18, 2010 (he was born on same paths that Dior is imposing on
The following month, he plans to start He was the great creator of costumes for A At the beginning of the xxth runway in 2011. (25O) September 5, 1923 in the DF). the world. Narrow waist with wide
exporting dresses to major US stores, María Félix, working with her in films century the feminine beauty had as ideal skirts. As a consequence of the war
including the famous Neiman-Marcus such as ‘Enamorada’ and ‘Río Escondido’ the strange silhouette of the tiples of Once dead a reflection arises: his fashion synthetic fibers are accessible, and
stores in Dallas, among others. They (Indio Fernández, 1946 and 1948). To the the Teatro Principal (199). house was opposite the palacio de hierro companies like Celanese Mexicana offer
will be copies of their most expensive extent that when Maria went on a tour By the middle of the century the figure Durango, with great successes in the past assortment of rayon, nylon and acetates
models, priced between $4O and $5O of Europe took the couturier so as to of the dancer had changed enough that his name literally went with him. There in dressesmade of synthetic satin. (260)
186 187
In 1956, Christian Dior himself writes page 263 page 271 backgrounds of his invention. Still relationship one of the most successful page 283
about his travel to Caracas, Venezuela to fashion photography with excellent alliances was with enrique martínez, who
supervise the opening of a Latin American In those years the Secretary of ‘The boys watch the girls while the girls manufacture, today his work is was Mendez’s assistant for 6 years before
life magazine o8/o6/1964
branch. Here in Mexico with the motto Agriculture asks Valdiosera to campaign watch the boys who watch the girls go forgotten. :( :..( going to study in Paris and being hired by (facsimilar magazine) colección trendo.mx
of ‘so that our elegant do not bother to promote Mexican cotton, but this by / Eye to eye, they solemnly convene the house of Hubert de givenchy, where
with having to cross the Atlantic’ the scaled in a way, that along with some to make the scene/ Which is the name In that decade, the one called as the he get into the First assistant position. Famous for his wedding dresses, where
‘palacio’ has a special area in charge of partners the brand ‘maya of mexico’ is of the game, watch a guy watch a dame ‘dean of mexican fashion’: Manuel In 1982 he returned to Mexico at the Mayo let loose his creative imagination.
madame rostan (265), every year she did founded. on any street in town /Up and down and Méndez enters the scene. After a late head of the marsel house, which was The dress Ana Maria wears in top
the pilgrimage to Paris and saw Christian over and across, romance is boss…’ are vocational crisis -he had been born on a leader in national production. In 1983 image, whom he calls ‘Novia Reina’,
Dior’s runways, by agreement with his Don Ramón decides that the classic line the original lyrics of the Andy Williams 12/9/3O- he had his first contact with he presented his high fashion collection one of the most admired, is a satin made
house, brought the dress models to of the silhouette in Mexico were the song of 1964, that the ‘Castro Brothers’ fashion in a family workshop in 1961. for the Salón del palacio de hierro. especially by the Celanese Mexicana,
Mexico where construction was adapted great circular skirts. In the workshops covered with great success: ‘Music to Self-taught he dedicated to perfect in Born 15/12/195O in Culiacán Sinaloa, died S.A. It wears a veil of illusion tulle with
and reproduced like expensive copies for the fabrics were painted, and they began watch girls go by’. It was not earlier haute couture techniques, obtaining 26/11/1999. On his death, a businesswoman, ribbon bows and a mantle inspired by
the wealthy clientele. Of course with with a branch on Juarez Avenue and than 1953, when Mexican photographer the contract for the production of Elisa Salinas opened the boutique that of Moctezuma, whose panneaux
permission of the house of dior: the then another in Zona Rosa, soon after Nacho Lopez threw a model to walk lanvin in Mx. And by the end of the enrique martínez on Madison Avenue are embroidered in straw, Mexican rock
dress was sold many times at high price, they had 7 branches and even one in into Madero St. with an incredibly decade get the attention of the palacio in NY, a project that closed in 2OO2. crystal and iridescent baccarat bubbles.
because it was under a licensing system, Beverly Hills. (231, 262 and 263) fitted dress, that the reaction of the men de hierro, inviting him to be part of
The dress, with a fitted bodice and
allowing so many times under such would be unthinkable in the 21st century: the ‘salón internacional’. This salon During the seventies manuel méndez embroidery, takes the skirt in A cut.
conditions, all signed in advance. Already since its campaign in 1946 compliments, howls and twisted necks was created by its advertising director and enrique martínez along with The veil surrounds the headdress of
the President Miguel Alemán knew to watch the girls go by. (266, 267) Charles Kovec in 1967 to bring to Mx gene matouk were known as ‘the orange blossoms and rhinestones. To
Marguerite Rostan had arrived in Mx in the nationalist project of Valdiosera, international brands and organize three emes’ of Mexican fashion. the left, the actress Elsa Cárdenas takes
1929 at the age of 22, with her husband, reason why he gave him impulse and In the sixties, the arrival of the mini- grand luxury runways. another model of Mayo. It is a two piece
textile entrepreneur, and worked for promotion. Many states did not have skirt and dresses that were almost The latter, of Lebanese origin, was born wool suit, in a typically Mexican blouse
the ‘palacio’ for 77 years until she until that moment a ‘typical dress’, unthinkable just ten years ago are only a on O8/O8/1925 and died on 27/O9/1997. with floral embroidery. At the Palacio
died in 2006. She was the first ‘fashion reason why Valdiosera approached symptom of the profound social changes Matouk had studied architecture and de las Mariposas in Teotihuacán,
stylist’ in the country. In 1967 she was to Governors and offered the project that will take place in the world, not then moved on to fashion. He designed Ana María is also presented here in a
part of the decision to create the salón to them. So Valdiosera design only in Mexico, but also the pill, the evening gowns and cocktail dresses, dance costume, with an embroidered
internacional inside the store. among others the ‘typical dresses’ of sexual revolution and the women’s lib but he emphasized that every piece panneau that can be removed and
Aguascalientes, Nuevo Leon, Tabasco, movement. should be able to be used daily too. used as a stole (right). The headdress is
The house of maria pavignani, was and the ‘Chetumaleña’ of the state of In the images of the time his creations pearls and pink ‘bread crumb’ flowers.
dedicated to the same tropicalization. Quintana Roo. In those years tufic yazbek (1917-1979) page 28O are in tune with Halston and dvf.
Founded since 1920 in the street of was part of studio yazbek with his
Madero # 17, in the Iturbide Palace, It is paradoxical that the high society partners Alfredo, his brother, and his In ‘Modista de señoras’ (Cardona,
serving a select clientele. (269) then, bought copies of luxury fashion
but copies in the end, while a national
nephew Edmundo Feres Yazbek. Working
with the movie stars of that time, they the three emes 1969), Mauricio Garcés plays the role
of a couturier named D’Maurice who
Henri de Chatillon continues to hoard production like ‘Maya of Mexico’ had the connections to facilitate access pretends to be not quite ‘manly’, so he
the social note, although the arrival of existed. From ‘the 3OO’ to the Duke to the cinema of his other nephew: In 198O he presented his first collection can be close to his female clients who
the Chilean creator tao izzo (sic) is felt. of Otranto, to TRIXI, the fashion Mauricio Feres Yazbek Garcés, better in Paris, with Mexican embroideries in become his secret lovers on occasion. And
(269) He made in 1956 the dress with journalism were the social account of known as Mauricio Garcés -the male lead the dresses, applications that were his ‘enemies’ are three envious designers
which Silvia Pinal poses in the infamous the period. (26O, 265, 269). of mexican cinema in the sixties (288). common in his designs and that saw who follow him everywhere, in one of
painting made for the actress by Diego in Mexico a continuous source of those cases where reality imitates art.
Rivera. Itzo also ventured into film design Uncle Tufic had married Zaida Fuentes inspiration. On September 21, 2O14,
in films such as ‘la generala (Ibanez, ... of Yazbek. And doing that he had the the world of fashion, shocked, received In the sixties another designer is esteban
news of his death. Page 286
1970) and ‘cuando tejen las arañas’ same fate as the photographer Irving mayo. He studied medicine in his youth
(Gavaldón, 1979). Penn when he married Lisa Fonssagrives: and then had a cinematographic career In the 1970s, the mirage of
not only did he find a marriage but the A person full of charisma and good of relative success. After a long illness
heart, that made him one of the most modernity being constructed by
opportunity to always have at hand a that prostrated him in a bed where all he populist governments, will end in a
woman of such extraordinary beauty beloved characters of Mexican fashion. could do was draw, he became a florist and
A few years earlier, in a memorial generalized economic crisis, following
who collaborated to make his photos someone asked him to make a wedding dress the promise that ‘now if’ Mexicans
even more extraordinary. of Father’s Day, in the ‘Reforma’ according to the bouquet he had created.
newspaper, fernando toledo and should be prepared to manage
From there he made a career of surprising abundance. In that context, national
If the fashion industry in Mexico had lupita aguilar commented that he was success, performing at the International
the father of a generation of designers: brands and creation existed without
been more developed, Tufic Yazbek Fashion Show in Paris. It had a great threats like the ‘fast-fashion’ we know
would have become one of the big blanca estela sánchez, gerardo fashion house on the street of Gutenberg
dragonetti, ricardo reyes, héctor today: a parallel world where you did
names in fashion photography in the 39 in the colony Anzures of the capital. not have to compete with Inditex.
world. The commercial use of his images terrones, armando mafud, eduardo And for the 80’s surprisingly turn shift
luengas, arturo ramos, bertholdo The youthful cool brands were
was the advertisements of his time. and became mystic, astrologer and reader from Mexico for once. This was the
espinosa & Jesús ibarra, faustino of the tarot. His hit were the wedding
monroy and guillermo león. case of Aca Joe, who originated
(272-277). Beer, cola, in elaborate sets dresses. He was born in o5/o1/1927. (282) in the port of Acapulco with an
and sometimes made with projected Perhaps in that teacher-apprentice
entrepreneur named Joseph ‘Joe’ Rank.
188 189
Producing denim clothes that young sras.’ of the previous decade, the real page 299 Her style full of fun looks, with giant wigs with silhouettes of great sensuality - it is Page 311
people perceived as fun and trendy. costume designer was Rubén Maytorena. and eyelashes, made it the perfect occasion said that the dress the model wears in the
The popular fashion sold in stores Now ‘click fotógrafo de modelos’ The whole contemporary clothes for the decade of disco music. photos of Nacho López, was his creation. a n d t h e n t h e 8 0 ’ s
such as ‘milano’, the ‘taconazo (Cardona, 1970) evoked in the figure culture of fast-fashion comes from a Her legendary name continues to resonate (266-267) Another common element was
popis’, (294-297) where brands such of the photographer the great lenses time in the sixties in London, when the in the memory of Mexican fashion. In the his fusion of dress forms being integrated A new and fresh start for an
as topeka - the Mexican response to of that time like the too soon deceased designer barbara hulanicki founded collections shared with us by her, we see with the rebozo & the mantilla, adding optimistic decade. That will end with
Levi’s -, panam - the Mexican sport Max Clemente, the creator Nadine what would be known as the most garments that can perfectly compete traditional pieces to modern cuts. economic crisis and devaluation; aids
shoe par excellence, and unforgettable Markova and of course Carlos Contreras beautiful shop in the world: BIBA. It in parallel with the Kenzo and the and the biggest earthquake, making this
brands such as canada footwear, for the magazine ‘claudia’ (304- 307). was not the idea of a brand but rather Rykiel of those same times. (300, 301) In editorials of the Claudia magazine time a true paradigm shift.
socks donelli, or the high life suits. of a department store in which all kinds his fashion is seen parading in European
page 287 of products were sold from clothing to cities, from Poland, to the streets of On 9 December 2015 sergio ocaña died
Masaryk was not yet the street of beauty. Constantly pulling new item Paris. And there the applications of of pneumonia. Sampetrino Designer,
boutiques in Polanco, until ‘79 when to the sales floor. In vogue with the Mexican motifs coexist with a modern regio, who in the 80’s changed his studies
niobe lopez ostalaza had the idea Permanently, Mexico is youthful taste for art deco the logo and silhouette according to its time. These of architecture to fashion, studying
of setting the boutique ‘frattina’ a conservative society. When the store were inspired by that style. productions were taken from Mexico in St Martins and founding the brand
the first to bring imports into a government allowed go-go dresses with to these scenarios and published here ‘concepts’. Ocaña along with zulema
fashionable luxury market in Mx. scandalous miniskirts as official uniforms pixie hopkin was born in Singapore on in a totally independent way, at a time olivares, ramón guerrero and marcelo
in both mexico ‘68 and the world cup of 12/O4/1942 as her parents traveled due when the editorial boom makes Mexican ríos achieved memorable times for
Mexico did not have a red zone of ‘70, was because the clash of the modern to World War II. Still she is considered magazines such as claudia, vanidades, fashion in northern Mexico-Monterrey.
tolerance, then a group of intellectuals, world could not be stopped. (284-285) of Irish origin. Eventually she met the activa, etc. were profusely consumed.
among them the painter Jose Luis Mexican Juan Jose Gurrola - legendary At the end of the 70’s, Anna Fusoni had
Cuevas turned certain neighborhood, At the end of 1971 in Avándaro, ‘rock character of the counterculture in the Marqués del Rivero in Insurgentes Norte established the semana de la moda -first
the zona rosa, into a pole of attraction and ruedas’ festival was the Mexican Mx of the 6O’s - and married him. So she St, the tailor Ignacio Orendain selling in mexican fashion week, at the same time
of the luxury, the bohemia and the equivalent of Woodstock. Literal came to Mexico City to be a singer and Page 308 the Salón Internacional del Palacio de she became a fashion columnist for the
gastronomy. Shops like the ‘paranoia translation of ‘Rock & Roll’, at a time actress. In her second marriage, it turned Hierro, Laila Bath, Esteban Matisson, Jesús ovaciones and novedades newspapers
boutique’ of Arabella Batiz (293) made when the groovy magazine was the out that the new husband was a publicist Ochoa in Guadalajara, are just evocative and promoted her salon boutique. (318)
their appearance selling cool clothes ‘piedra rodante’, the Mexican ‘Rolling on the tv program ‘siempre en domingo’ names of almost no written memory.
for rockers with expensive tastes, Stone’. In its pages announces the and Pixie was doing the costumes for the beachwear, cocktail ricardo santana with echoes of Mugler
clothes brought from UK: platform ‘other fashion’ that sought a youthful show. Which caused great demand for dresses & night dresses josefa Ibarra and the águila descalza was and Montana ‘a lá mexicain’; julian
shoes, military uniforms like those expression, through the ‘DIY’ - Do it those clothes. a brand full of nationalism. Its designer maceda in men’s clothing, ramón
in ‘Sgt. Pepper‘, Union Jack t-shirts. yourself - with the advice to customize was born in Sabinas in Nuevo Leon, in the herrera and alejandro solís, liz kena,
your denim (291). Or the surprisingly Selling wigs and false eyelashes, the The announcement calls: with two early 50’s and living in Puerto Vallarta she miguel garcía, juan briseño, isabel de
Shops such as ‘girasol’ in the street of conservative note of the magazine, pixie brand was already legendary, but stores, one in Acapulco on Hidalgo St # began making jewelry and beachwear. grenada, monica aboumrad, jana
Florence sold garments with profuse along with the ‘Avándaro’s naked girl’, it was added the clothing line with a 22-1 and in Mexico City in Florence St # She was discovered by international jaffe, martha riestra and the aspasia
applications in brightly colored emphasizes that this is a youth that almost certain air that recalled the Biba trend. 41 Zona Rosa. The stores’ owner was Julio celebrities and their style of caftans in brand, wanda amieiro and javier lario.
drawings with ethnic influences. Or the does not smoke marihuana and if it does, She put three boutiques in Zona Rosa, Chávez. Publishing his autobiography colorful cottons, with a lot of mexican
‘águila descalza’ that also alluded to it is in little doses and secretly, just like Satelite and Polanco and also sold in in 1991, ‘vestidas y desvestidas’ where influences and at the same time ‘folk’, The Spaniard Lario (319-321), began his
nationalism. In the immediate vicinity it was just seen in the concerts. :O (292) palacio de hierro. She extended her he declares himself the ‘Modista de las make her to have a very successful career in 1979 as a window dresser and
there were houses of designers like sales to the United States selling in saks, Estrellas’ -fashionista of the stars-. The business, even with store in Boston and fashion designer at pixie fashion (291-
‘mitzy’ or ‘willy mena’, where the Who has lived through that time surely nordstrom, neiman marcus and even book, a plethora of anecdotes from the presence in the big retail stores in Usa. 301). In 198O he created his own line of
production was not industrial, but remembers fondly, not only the salón in bergdorf’s goodman. tv world that seems fascinating to many There are those who praise Josefa with accessories and a year later he launched
created fashion very specif fashion internacional in the lower part of the people, being evident since the book was superlatives, but mexican fashion history his first collection of clothes. Since
for a party clientele or showbusiness. palacio, Durango, but the stamped As she told us in the interviews for published in a whopping 1O,OOO copies in has a feminine figure equivalent to 1982 he made television programs like
Ending the fitting, the customers went paper bags where they sold all kinds of ‘mextilo: the film’ (Prado, 2014) even successive editions. Julio was born on May Valdiosera, but certainly not Josefa (377). Videomoda and Video-cosmos. He was
to Tea Saloons like the ‘Esteba’ and fashionable merchandise. (295, 296). when she was so successful that she 18, 192O in Ahualulco de Mercado, Jalisco. responsible for the image and costumes
the ‘Duca d’este’ - a world of elegant had 42 stores, 5,ooo points of sale for In the image taken in a large store by the of Valores Bacardi and designed the
places long before the proliferation eyelashes and hundreds of employees, On December 21, 2OO2 Chávez died in young Adolfo Patiño (309), it is seen that image of Alejandra Guzmán, Thalía,
of a convenience store in each corner. successive crises In the 1980s, since the the usual conditions in which his brand fashion as much as identities were changing Yuri, Pandora, Eugenia León and
earthquake, devaluations, and the was extinguished along with him. He in the seventies. A popular figure that Mecano. (singers)
- Variety: on the one hand designers subsequent opening of free trade, made had worked since the 193Os, and he had marked the public’s taste was Juan Gabriel
and established brands, but on the the survival of the brand increasingly created both Mexican gold cinema era (298) who would have been unimaginable Wanda Amieirio, designer of Puerto
other creations for young people, difficult, there was a great change in the fashions, and dresses of the rumberas a few decades ago in which machismo only Rican origin, began in 1986 and since
for countercultures, coexisting with taste regarding the size of the hairstyles, and the vedettes. In the 7O’s he had his allowed male prototypes like the Charro then she sold in el palacio. Eventually
cheesy dressmakers specializing in people were looking for foreign brands, biggest success receiving prizes like The Cantor -Pedro Infante. Abel Quezada, in the 21st century she was joined in
boring evening dresses. In which of until the brand eventually closed. Golden Thimble and the Gold Scissors. the great cartoonist, makes a comment design by her daughter Oriela.
these directions is true fashion? - in all, As a Jalisco designer, he was recognized about fashion as a plot of the ‘third sex’
in what is really seen in the streets and Pixie continued to actively work for and that’s why there was a profusion in the
ends up being the spirit of the time. Palacio de Hierro in the area of trends
by his state, so he was sponsored to
present a collection in Paris. He had a ‘unisex’ fashions of that time. Comment translated content
195
196
197
moda y libertad / anuncio de fonky ropa de aliviane / revista piedra rodante #8 / enero 1972 / colección trendo.mx
la revolución mexicana
‘La bola’, las adelitas (157) y la gesta [...] saben guisar, coser mal y lavar la ropa del marido, pero no la planchan[...]
que estamos acostumbrados a ver de tienen fidelidad absoluta y abnegación incondicional por el marido; y
manera ascéptica en la televisión, acatamiento de segundo grado a la oficialidad del batallón o regimiento.
es la versión falsa de lo que pasó; Estas mujeres que acompañaban a la tropa, conseguían para alimentar
protagonizada por la belleza de al batallón y en tren conocieron todos las localidades del país. Al acabar la
Dolores del Río y la apostura de revolución llegarían en masa a vivir en la ciudad, una vida de vecindades.
Pedro Armendáriz
Los varones de grupos populares solían portar calzón y camisa o sábana de
Aunque a todo mundo se le manta, e iban descalzos o con huaraches, mientras que los más prósperos
olvida, fue la primera revolución gustaban de vestir a la ‘europea’, usando pantalones, chaqueta, camisa y
‘las soldaderas son más típicas en En contrapartida, la clase acomodada comenzaba a poblar la exclusiva colonia
sus costumbres y carácter. Andan Roma. Entre ellos, la ‘gatita blanca’: María Conesa -primera tiple de las
cubiertas de andrajos y desconocen tandas (o sea, estrella del escenario). Que a muy temprana edad ya hacía las
el uso del jabón y del calzado. [...] delicias del público no sólo por su talento para el canto sino por
acompañan al marido en sus marchas lo ‘sicalíptico’ de sus representaciones.
militares [...] en el campo de batalla
llevan agua a los heridos; y despojan a Su vestido (199) una vez más acorsetado, recuerda a la imagen de ‘la Bernhardt’
los muertos del vestido, dejando sólo en los anuncios de Mucha con 1O años de retraso... La silueta en ‘S’ a destiempo,
un calcetín a los oficiales para que por se mantendrá durante la década del 1O en la que la revolución no permitía tantas
él pueda reconocerse su categoría. ‘frivolidades’ en la adopción inmediata de las tendencias de moda.
198 199
enrique díaz / mujeres bandera / circa. 1920 / archivo general de la nación / fondo díaz delgado y garcía / subcaja 12/12
200
201
ernesto ‘chango’ garcía cabral / revista de revistas / 1º de agosto de 1927 / colección trendo.mx
adolfo best maugard / método de dibujo tradición resurgimiento y evolución del arte mexicano / sep / 1923 / colección trendo.mx * insertos andonella / 2015
la línea de la moda
El abandono del corset, es el El peinado que hace furor ‘El MétoDo De DiBujo,
signo evidente. Aunque en era el ‘BoB’. Con el pelo traDiCión y surgiMiento
realidad fue gradual, o muy relativamente corto, al Del arte MexiCano’ que
específico. Sólo aquellos frente llega a la altura de la acababa de salir editado por
cuerpos extraordinarios mandíbula, pero por detrás se la Secretaría de Educación
que en sintonía con la gran levanta arriba de la nuca. Pública en 1923. (203-206)
bailarina Isadora Duncan !Pelonaaaaas! les gritaban a la
podían revivir el ‘ChlaMys’ salida de la preparatoria de Después de la revolución
griego sin ponerse estructura José Vasconcelos quedó al
debajo, así lo hicieron. San Ildefonso. (211, 214, 215) frente de la cultura del país.
Con el objetivo de encontrar
La moda de las flappers, o maneras de expresar y
El principio del siglo chicas modernas, fue muy articular lo mexicano, dio
XX vió un breve revival por limitada a la ciudad de impulso en todos los frentes
el vestido Imperio, -que México. Divas culturales a las artes, al muralismo, a
culminará en el vestido como Tina Modotti, nuevas formas en la danza,
Delphos de Mariano Antonieta Rivas Mercado la literatura y por supuesto
Fortuny. Aunque pronto y Nahui Ollin posan en las el dibujo.
bajó la cintura a medio fotos con los ojos cubiertos
muslo por la influencia del de ollín negro al estilo En el ‘método’ lo que Frida
kimono. (210) aprendido en las estrellas encontró fue una serie de
del cine mudo. pasos para expresarse de
En Europa después de poiret ‘manera mexicana’ a través
la aparición de la silueta de la plástica.
Chanel, luchará por ropa Esa estética está
más práctica para las mujeres presente hasta en algún Cosas que encontramos
del mundo. Sin olvidar retrato de una muy joven a lo largo de todo el país
que eso era sólo para las Frida Kahlo posando con el y que creemos que son
más jóvenes y arriesgadas. traje de muchacho y el pelo mexicanísimas como esos
Al mismo tiempo lanvin engominado. listones que cargan los
proponía el ‘robe de style’ pajaritos en el pico donde
(217) un revival de la silueta Poco tiempo después Frida hay letreros escritos (209),
de María Antonieta con una sufre su infame accidente la forma en la que se
cadera gigante, que era para y queda inmovilizada en representa la naturaleza en
las matronas, las mujeres su cama sin poder hacer mil maneras en la artesanía.
casadas, todas aquellas que nada. Su Papá le llevó, casi Todo eso son expresiones
no tenían esa silueta de que tienen origen en el
‘jovencito’. obligándola, un pequeño
libro didáctico: método...desarrollará su
202
203
203
204 205
adolfo Best maugard era el autor del libro, estaba al frente de la enseñanza de
las artes plásticas y con su libro tuvo influencia sobre
miles y miles de niños en la década de los veinte.
El se dió a la tarea de identificar cuáles eran los elementos comunes a los pueblos
antiguos y particularmente a los prehispánicos en su expresión plástica, llegando a
la conclusión que todo arte se basaba en cinco formas básicas. (203-206).
el alumno debía ensayar con ellas para luego combinarlas en tramas y ‘petatillos’
bajo una serie de reglas: nunca cruzar las líneas, no hacer perspectiva, etc.
covarrubias en la década de los treinta vivía en los estados Unidos y desde ahí
ilustraba las portadas del Vanity Fair. entre los exotismos que captaba en su trazo
están desde el retrato del istmo mexicano en su ‘Mexico South’ (52-55) , sus estudios
de la isla de Bali (208), hasta sus bocetos al ritmo del jazz en las incursiones en el
Harlem nocturno. Bocetos casi iguales a los que hay en la obra del ‘chango’.
cabral podía tomar las escenas campiranas de un méxico idílico (201), muy en tono
con el ‘método’, pero sin quedarse ahí. retrató la vida nocturna de la capital
y en sus portadas de ‘Revista de Revistas’ (211 -217) plasmó el más absoluto y
sorprendente chic urbano mexicano, que no le pide nada a las ilustraciones de la
‘Gazette de Bon Ton’ de aquellos mismos años y que lo pone por lo menos al nivel
de los titanes de la ilustración de moda como George Lepape y Paul Iribe.
207
206
208
miguel covarrubias / revista vanity fair / febrero 1936 / colección trendo.mx
209
‘fito’ best maugard y miguel covarrubias / circa 1930 * inserto retrato de best maugard / andonella / 2015
sinafo fototeca nacional / maría conesa / flapper en un espectáculo de teatro / circa 1920 * inserto el ‘chango’ cabral /
210
211
ernesto ‘chango’ garcía cabral / revista de revistas / 25 de mayo de 1924 / ‘el reinado de las pelonas’ / colección trendo.mx
su dibujo transita por los estilos de la época, del art nouveau al art decó.
el decó nacional se enriqueció con motivos prehispánicos, aunque en el mundo
en su momento se le conoció con varios nombres y entre ellos el de:
‘aztec airlines’ hacendo alusión a un ensueño mexicano.
ernesto ‘chango’ garcía cabral / revista de revistas / 15 de junio de 1924 / colección trendo.mx
PELIGROS M S GRANDES Y PERMANENTES DE LA MODA MEXICANA. PRETEXTO
PARA EJERCICIOS DE M S AFECTACI N QUE ESTILO, SE AHOGA EN GESTOS,
TRAZOS Y PESTA AS DE ESPECT CULO TRAVESTI. OLVIDANDO QUE EL BUEN
DISE O NO ES POR LO EXAGERADO SINO POR LA COMPLEJIDAD POR LA FORMA
Y LA FUNCI N. MALA ILUSTRACI N DE MODA, CON FIRMA GIGANTE, Y EFECTOS
TERRIBLES DEL PRISMACOLOR Y LOS GISES. EJEMPLO DE TODO LO MALO QUE
PUEDE HACER UN EQU VOCO PROCESO DE ENSE ANZA QUE PRIVILEGIA EL QUE
se diBUJeN PriNcesas de disNey eN vez de BUeNos Procesos de diseño.
durante el escandaloso juicio, que recoge con detalle la prensa del momento,
se causa tal expectativa que se ponen bocinas en las calles para oír el proceso
por radio y la moda que porta la acusada, en complicados trajes de luto y
sombreros sensacionales, aunado a su belleza crean un circo mediático del que
sorprendemente sale absuelta, para dedicarse el resto de su vida a ser maestra.
215
ernesto ‘chango’ garcía cabral / revista de revistas / 30 de octubre de 1927 / colección trendo.mx
ernesto ‘chango’ garcía cabral / revista de revistas / 14 de agosto de 1927/ colección trendo.mx
ernesto ‘chango’ garcía cabral / revista de revistas / 10 de julio de 1927/ colección trendo.mx
sinafo fototeca nacional / aparadores de moda de la capital / circa 1926 -1930
218
219
en la década de los treinta, se funda el Pri, con su antecedente el PNr. se acaba el
maximato y termina la guerra cristera. el peinado femenino ya no se lleva tan corto y se
acostumbra acomodarlo como en olitas gracias a las anchoas y las tenazas.
aún así solo algunas valientes elegían los trajes autóctonos para presentarse en
eventos de gran gala, como se ve en fotos donde Frida Kahlo aparece con vestido
tradicional en medio de hombres de Frac y damas con vestido de noche.
222
223
224 225
dibujo de ramón valdiosera / simbad el marino 1958
Antonio Caballero, el gran fotógrafo mexicano conocido
228
229
archivo general de la nación / chicas en escuela de modelos ramón valdiosera / circa 1950
fototeca nacional sinafo / valdiosera arreglando la ropa en una modelo / circa 1950
230
231
agn / archivo hermanos mayo / valdiosera y telas pintadas a mano / circa 1950
agn / archivo díaz / la caravana del progreso / méxico 1938
232
233
233
en las ondas de radio
de la XEW había un programa que se llamaba ‘lunas verdes’ producido por
lvaro Gálvez a quien se le ocurrió invitar a un panel a personalidades de la moda y
la cultura nacional para discutir acerca de la existencia o no
de una identidad y de una moda mexicana...
_ Henri de chatillon - “imposible. méxico está muy atrasado, no hay materiales, las
telas no sirven y no se podría competir con lo europeo, y menos con lo norteamericano”
Armando Valdés Peza - No hay ni finura, no tenemos una cultura elegante y refinada
que se preste como la griega, somos un pueblo todavía poco maduro en cuanto a moda”
mientras esto sucedía, la gente en la calle consumía revistas como ‘Paquita’ que
existía desde 1936 y que traducía material norteamericano, tendencias de Hollywood y
patrones para que el ama de casa hiciera su ropa, lo que era muy común. (235-237)
234
235
revista paquita / junio de 1942 / méxico / colección trendo.mx
236
237
revista paquita / junio de 1941 / méxico / colección trendo.mx
sig. pág . diego rivera / retrato del sombrero / 1944 / henri de chatillon * andonella / retrato del sombrero / 2015
238
Henri de chatillón
Poco halagador ‘El retrato del sombrerero’ que pintó diego rivera de chatillón en 1944.
Pieza rara, pues no entra dentro de los cánones nacionalistas de diego. y más bien parece
haber sido encargo de alguna cliente rica del pintor y del modista.
en octubre 17 de 1949 Time Magazine sacó una nota acerca del diseñador :
sus primeros sombreros eran tan fantásticos como caros, pero aún así se vendían como
pan caliente. y a veces casi eran comestibles: chatillón descubrió que si calentaba
tortillas al vapor, las moldeaba y luego las barnizaba, se podía hacer un sombrero
vendible. Hizo otros tocados con zacate, la fibra que los mexicanos usan en vez de la
lana, y de las pajas baratas con las que se hacen los bajos de las sillas de montar.
el siguiente mes tiene planes para empezar a exportar vestidos a las principales
tienda de los estados Unidos, incluyendo los famosos almacenes Neiman-marcus de
dallas, entre otros. serán copias de sus modelos más caros, con precios entre $40 y $50
dólares. con tantos negocios, el solterón chatillón está muy ocupado para pensar en
actividades sociales. ‘me casé con mis sombreros’, nos cuenta.’
El portafolio fotográfico lo hizo Antonio Caballero, que nos recuerda que en su trato
chatillón era un caballero un tanto pomposo y afectado.(241, 242)
240 241
antonio caballero / de visita al atelier de henri de chatillón / 1949
242
fototeca nacional sinafo / nacho lópez / armando valdés peza / 1950
243
sinafo fototeca nacional / armando valdés peza / bocetos de vestuario para maría félix * excélsior / 1950 * andonella / 2015
245
A lo mejor en eso de los paralelos el
equivalente mexicano a Edith Head sea el
diseñador Armando Valdés Peza.
247
246
Al principio del siglo XX la belleza femenina tenía como ideal
la silueta extraña de las tiples del Teatro Principal (199).
Para mediados de siglo la figura de la bailarina había
cambiado lo suficiente para que ahora, en vez de ser sólo
hermosas también tuvieran como atributo el de ser ‘exóticas’.
248 249
malafacha / invierno 2o11 * andonella / tin-tan /2o15
250
federico gama / top models / 2OO2
251
252 253
254
un homie del siglo XXI / logo de hermés-homies * cartel de turismo de la ciudad de méxico / circa 1950
255
el canto de méxico
acostumbrados a todo tipo de estereotipos (68), la imagen de lo mexicano la tenemos
fijada a través de la imaginería kitsch de nuestras identidades. Poco esperaríamos que
una de las fantasías más delirantes de nuestra propia mexicanidad
folleto de teatro / le chanteur de mexico / théâtre du châtelet / 1951 / colección trendo.mx * andonella / 2015
haya salido de París en el teatro chatelet en 1951.
Poder ver la película que posteriormente se hizo ‘Le chanteur de Mexico’ (Pottier, 1956) es
toda una hazaña desde méxico. Pero en Francia lo consideran algo esencialmente mexicano,
aún cuando para nosotros es casi impenetrable en su exotismo. esa visión a la fecha sigue
existiendo, colecciones dedicadas a mx como inspiración toman de todos lados desde
‘Apocalipto’ (Gibson 2006) hasta Speedy González buscando esa esencia que nosotros mismos
negamos. Pero que por ejemplo en la imaginería chicana, en la pintura de calendarios, en los
bigotes de Frida, en todas esas cosas hace presencia. eso que sabemos inasible.
Pedro Loredo. Inicia su paso por la moda en 1953, busca imbuir su trabajo de la influencia
precolombina, crea trajes coordinados en 1957 que se pondrán de moda
en todo el mundo hasta la década siguiente y a partir de 1962 transparencias
en organzas con motivos prehispánicos. Se presenta en Nueva York, y en Europa.
se nombre se asocia a las creaciones de los concursos de belleza como el de miss Universo.
Y logra tener una presencia en las pasarelas importantes hasta casi el final de su vida.
Fallece el 18/12/2010 (había nacido el 5 de septiembre de 1923 en el dF).
Una vez extinto surge una reflexión: su casa de moda estaba enfrente del Palacio de Hierro
Durango, con grandes éxitos en el pasado su nombre literalmente se fue con él. No hay
continuidad de que una casa mexicana de moda sobreviva a su creador en el tenor que nos
tienen acostumbradas las casas europeas en donde se suceden generaciones de creadores
bajo el mismo techo y con el común denominador de una firma: Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, etc.
Esa será una de las grandes señales de la consolidación de nuestra moda: cuando una marca
viva más de diez años, se convierta en negocio rentable y pueda sobrevivir a su fundador.
Muy distante de las 23 tiendas que nuestros elegantes no se molesten con tener que cruzar el
tiene 67 años después a nivel nacional. Atlántico’ el ‘palaCio’ tiene un área especial a cargo de
Cosas que creemos muy modernas, MaDaMe rostan (265), que se dedica a la peregrina labor de ir
como el crédito y la devolución de cada año a los desfiles de Christian Dior en París, y por convenio
una parte de la compra en ‘cupones’ con su casa, trae los modelos a México en donde son adaptados
ya estaban presentes desde esta época en el patronaje y reproducidos como copias caras para la pudiente
e incentivaban el consumo a través de clientela. Por supuesto con permiso de la Casa Dior: se vendía el
agresivas temporadas de ofertas. (259) vestido muchas veces al precio, porque se daba bajo un sistema de
licencias, se podía reproducir ‘tantas veces en tales condiciones’.
Tanto en el Palacio, como en
Liverpool, el Puerto de Veracruz y Marguerite rostan había llegado a Mx en 1929 con 22 años,
en los atelieres de los modistas, y las de la mano de su esposo empresario de textiles y trabajó para
grandes ocasiones sociales se daban el ‘palaCio’ durante 77 años hasta que murió en 2006.
pasarelas de moda que luego eran Fue la primera ‘Fashion stylist’ del país. En 1967 fue parte de la
comentadas en la prensa de sociales decisión de crear el salón internaCional dentro de la tienda.
de la época. (261, 264)
La casa de María pavignani, se dedicaba a los mismos
La silueta femenina sigue los mismos aterrizajes. Fundada desde 1920 en la calle de Madero #17, en el
derroteros que Dior está imponiendo Palacio de Iturbide, donde atendía a una clientela selecta. (269)
al mundo. Cintura estrecha con faldas
amponas. Como una consecuencia Henri de Chatillón sigue acaparando la nota de sociales, aunque
de la guerra las fibras sintéticas se hace sentir la llegada del creador chileno tao izzo (sic). (269)
son accesibles, y compañías como Quién en 1956 realizó el vestido con el que posa Silvia Pinal en la
Celanese MexiCana ofrecen surtido de célebre pintura que le hizo Diego Rivera a la actriz. Itzo también
rayón, nylon y acetatos en vestidos incursionó en el diseño para cine en películas como ‘la generala’
hechos de raso sintético. (26O) (Ibáñez, 197O) y ‘CuanDo tejen las arañas’ (Gavaldón, 1979).
258
261
Ya desde su campaña en
1946 el Presidente Miguel
Alemán conoció el proyecto
nacionalista de Valdiosera,
por lo que le dio impulso
y cobijo. Muchos estados
no contaban hasta ese
momento con traje típico,
por lo que Valdiosera se
acercó a los gobernadores
y les ofreció el proyecto.
A él se deben entre otros
el de Aguascalientes,
Nuevo León, Tabasco, y la
ramón valdiosera / maya de méxico / 1950
264
nacho lópez / cuando una mujer guapa parte plaza por madero / revista siempre / 1953 * julio chávez vestido
266
267
Exhibición de Chatillón
269
‘Voy caminando en la calle / mirando a las muchachas voy / Cerveza, refrescos de cola, en
y al pasar silbidos y piropos yo les doy /Alguna rubia, laciota, morena / sets elaborados y a veces hechos
tufic yazbek / studio yazbek / celanese mexicana / 60’s * andonella /medallón 60’s
hermosas y preciosas van...lara lara...’ es el cover de los ‘hermanos Castro’ con fondos proyectados de su
de la canción de Andy Williams de 1966 ‘Music to watch girls go by’. invención. Aún siendo fotografía
Apenas en 1953, cuando el fotógrafo mexicano Nacho López lanzó por las de moda de excelente factura, hoy
calles de Madero a una modelo con un vestido increíblemente entallado, su obra está olvidada. :( :...(
la reacción de los hombres sería impensable en el siglo XXI: piropos,
aullidos y cuellos torcidos por ver a las muchachas pasar. (266, 267) En esa década el que ha sido
considerado como el ‘Decano de la
En los sesentas la llegada de la minifalda y vestidos entalladísimos moda mexicana’ Manuel MénDez
que hubieran sido inaceptables apenas diez años atrás son tan sólo entra a la escena. Después de
un síntoma de los profundos cambios sociales que se una crisis vocacional tardía -había
darán en el mundo, no sólo en México, llega la píldora, nacido el 12/09/1930- tiene en 1961
la revolución sexual y la liberación femenina. su primer contacto con la moda en
un taller familiar.
En esos años tuFiC yazBek (1917-1979) era parte del Studio Yazbek con Autodidacta se dedica a
sus socios Alfredo, su hermano, y su sobrino Edmundo Feres Yazbek. perfeccionarse en técnicas de alta
Trabajando con las estrellas del cine de esa época tenían lascostura, consiguiendo la maquila
conexiones para facilitar el acceso al cine de su otro sobrino:
para la producción de Lanvin en
Mauricio Feres Yazbek Garcés, mejor conocido como Mauricio Garcés.(288) Mx; y para el final de la década
Tío Tufic se había casado con Zaida Fuentes ... de Yazbek. Y con ello ya contaba con la atención de las
tuvo la misma suerte que el fotógrafo Irving Penn cuando se casó con grandes departamentales.
Lisa Fonssagrives: no sólo encontró matrimonio sino la oportunidad de
tener siempre a la mano a una mujer de tan extraordinaria belleza que El palaCio De hierro le invita a ser
colaboró para volver sus fotos aún más extraordinarias. parte del ‘salón internaCional’.
Que había sido creado por su
Si la industria de la moda en México hubiese estado más desarrollada, director de publicidad Charles
Tufic Yazbek se hubiera constituido como uno de los grandes nombres koveC, en 1967 para traer a Mx
de la fotografía de moda. El uso comercial de sus fotografías era para marcas internacionales y organizar
los anuncios de su época. (272-277). desfiles de gran lujo.
270
271
tufic yazbek / studio yazbek / anuncio de angel face / revista vanidades / 1 noviembre 1963 / colección trendo.mx
272
273
tufic yazbek / studio yazbek / estudio para anuncio de angel face / 1963
tufic yazbek / studio yazbek / modelo zaida fuentes de yazbek / 60’s
274
275
276
277
278
279
tal vez en esa relación de aprendizaje una de las alianzas más exitosas fue con
Enrique Martínez, que fue asistente de méndez durante seis años para luego ir a
estudiar a París y ser contratado por la casa de Hubert de Givenchy, en donde llegó al
puesto de primer asistente. en 1982 regresó a méxico al frente de la casa Marsel que
era líder en la producción nacional. en 1983 presenta su colección de alta moda para
el salón del Palacio de Hierro. Nacido el 15 de diciembre de 1950 en culiacán sinaloa,
murió el 26 de noviembre de 1999. a su muerte, una empresaria, Elisa Salinas abrió la
boutique Enrique Martínez en madison avenue en Ny, proyecto que cerró en 2002.
durante la década de los setentas a Manuel Méndez y Enrique Martínez junto con
Gene Matouk se les conoció como ‘las tres emes’ de la moda mexicana.
Este último, de origen libanés nació el 4/o8/1925 y murió el 27/o9/1997. Matouk había
estudiado arquitectura y de ahí pasó a la moda. Hacía prendas de gala, noche y cóctel,
pero ponía énfasis en que debían de poderse usar también cotidianamente; en las
imágenes de época sus creaciones están en sintonía con Halston y dvF.
en los sesentas otro diseñador muy mencionado es Esteban Mayo. estudió medicina
en su juventud y luego tuvo una carrera cinematográfica de relativo éxito. Después de
una larga enfermedad que lo postró en una cama donde lo único que podía hacer era
dibujar, se convirtió en florista y alguien le pidió que hiciera un vestido de novia acorde
con el ramo que había creado. a partir de ahí realizó una carrera de éxitos sorprendentes,
presentándose en el salón de la moda internacional en París. tuvo una gran casa de
moda en la calle de Gutenberg 39 en la colonia Anzures de la capital. Y para la década de
los 80’s sorprendentemente cambió de giro y se convirtió en místico, astrólogo y lector del
tarot. su hit eran los vestidos de novia. Nació en 1927, un 5 de enero.(282)
281
280
esteban mayo / revista life / 8 de junio de 1964 / cortesía ana elena mallet
282
283
lance wyman, beatriz colle, josé luis ortiz, jan stornfel / uniforme de edecán / olimpiada méxico / 1968
284
285
agn/ fondo fotográfico * lance wyman / logo méxico ‘7O / edecanes mundial méxico 197O
agn/ fondo fotográfico / chicas caminando por la calle de morelos cdmx / 70’s
En los años setenta el espejismo Masaryk no era aún la calle de las boutiques en Polanco, hasta que en
de modernidad que los gobiernos ‘79, nioBe lópez ostalaza tuvo la idea de poner la boutique Frattina la
populistas estaban construyendo, primera en traer importaciones para un mercado de lujo de moda en Mx.
acabará en una crisis económica
generalizada, posterior a la promesa México no tenía una zona roja de tolerancia, entonces un grupo de
de que ‘ahora si’ los mexicanos intelectuales, entre ellos el pintor José Luis Cuevas convirtieron un barrio, la
debíamos prepararnos para zona rosa, en un polo de atracción del lujo, la bohemia y la gastronomía.
administrar la abundancia. Tiendas como la paranoia Boutique de Arabella Batiz (293) hicieron su
aparición vendiendo ropa en onda para los rockeros con prendas caras,
En ese contexto las marcas traídas de uk: zapatos de plataforma, uniformes militares a lo ‘Sgt. Pepper’,
nacionales y la creación existían sin playeras de Union Jack.
amenazas como la ‘moda-pronto’ de
ahora: un mundo paralelo donde no Tiendas como girasol en la calle de Florencia vendían prendas con
tenías que competir con inDitex. profusas aplicaciones en dibujos en colores brillantes con influencias étnicas.
En las inmediaciones abrían casas de modistos como Mitzy o
Las marcas juveniles de postín Willy Mena, donde la producción no era industrial, pero creaba
eran originarias de México. Era el imaginarios muy localizados para una clientela de fiesta o del
caso de aCa joe, que se originó espectáculo. Al salir del ‘fitting’ los clientes iban a salones de thé
en el puerto de Acapulco con como el ‘Esteba’ y el ‘Duca d’este- un mundo de lugares de postín
un empresario de nombre Joseph antes de la proliferación de un oxxo en cada esquina.
‘Joe’ Rank. Produciendo ropa de
mezclilla que los jóvenes percibían - varieDaD: por un laDo DiseñaDores y MarCas estaBleCiDos, pero por otro
como divertida y en tendencia. CreaCiones para jóvenes, para ContraCulturas, CoexistienDo Con MoDistas México es una sociedad permanentemente conservadora. Ya para que la visión oficial permitiera vestidos a Go-Gó
Cursis espeCializaDos en aBurriDos vestiDos De noChe. ¿en Cuál De esas con escandalosa minifalda como uniformes oficiales tanto en México ‘68 como en el Mundial del ‘70, habla de que
La moda popular se vendía en DireCCiones se halla la verDaDera MoDa? - en toDas, en lo que De verDaD se el embate del mundo moderno no podía ser detenido. (284-285)
tiendas como Milano, el taConazo ve en las Calles y aCaBa por Constituirse en el espíritu De la époCa. A finales de 1971 en Avándaro, ‘el Festival roCk y rueDas’ fue el equivalente mexicano de Woodstock.
popis, (294-297) y era el tiempo de Traducción literal de ‘Rock & Roll’, en un momento cuando la revista de ‘onda’ era la ‘Piedra Rodante’,
marcas como topeka -la respuesta En la mencionada película ‘MoDista De sras.’ de la década anterior, la ‘Rolling Stone’ mexicana. En sus páginas se anuncia la ‘otra moda’ que buscaba una expresión juvenil,
mexicana a Levi’s- , panaM - el el real diseñador de vestuario era Rubén Maytorena. Ahora ‘CliCk pasando por el ‘DIY’ -Hágalo usted mismo- con los consejos para customizar tu mezclilla (291). O la nota
zapato deportivo mexicano por FotógraFo De MoDelos’ (Cardona, 1970) evocaba en la figura del sorprendentemente conservadora de la revista que junto con ‘la encuerada de Avándaro’ recalca que es una
excelencia, y marcas inolvidables fotógrafo a los grandes de la lente de ese época como el fallecido juventud que casi no fuma mota y si lo hace, es poco y a escondidas, cómo se vió en los conciertos. :O (292)
como calzado CanaDá, calcetines a destiempo Max Clemente, la creadora Nadine Markova y por Quién haya vivido ese tiempo seguramente recuerda con cariño, no sólo al salón internaCional en la parte baja
Donelli, o los trajes de high liFe. supuesto Carlos Contreras para la revista ClauDia (304-307). del palaCio, Durango, sino las bolsas en las que te vendían todo tipo de mercancía de moda. (295, 296).
286 287
288
288
289
290
291
294
295
296
revista piedra rodante / no. 8 / enero de 1972 / colección trendo.mx
297
La moda-pronto actual proviene de un momento en la década de los dieron en la década de los ochenta
60’s en Londres, cuando Barbara Hulanicki fundó la ‘tienda más hermosa desde el terremoto, devaluaciones,
del mundo’: BIBA. No era la idea de una marca sino más bien de una y la posterior apertura del libre
departamental en la que se vendían todo tipo de productos desde ropa comercio, hicieron cada vez más
hasta belleza. Constantemente sacando novedades a piso de venta. difícil la supervivencia de la marca,
En boga con el gusto juvenil por el art decó en ese momento, hubo un gran cambio en el gusto
el logo y la tienda estaban en ese estilo. respecto al tamaño de los peinados,
la gente buscaba marcas extranjeras,
Pixie Hopkin nació en Singapur el 12/o4/1942 , sus papás viajaban debido a hasta que la marca cerró.
la 2nda Guerra Mundial. Ella se considera de origen irlandés.
Conoció al mexicano Juan José Gurrola -personaje legendario de Pixie continuó trabajando
la contracultura en el Mx de los 60’s- y se casó con el. activamente para palaCio De hierro
Llegó a la ciudad de México para ser cantante y actriz. En su segundo en el área de tendencias bien
matrimonio, su marido era publicista del programa ‘Siempre en Domingo’ entrado el siglo XXI.
juan gabriel / década de los setentas
300
301
302
julio chávez / vestidas y desvestidas / 1991 / colección trendo.mx
revista claudia / moda julio chávez / década 70’s / cortesía carlos contreras
304
305
306
307
revista claudia / moda julio chávez / década 70’s / cortesía carlos contreras
beachwear, cocktail &
night dresses. eso decía el anuncio: ropa de playa, de cóctel y de noche. con dos
tiendas, una en acapulco en la calle Hidalgo #22-1 y en ciudad de méxico en Florencia
#41 zona rosa. las tiendas eran de Julio Chávez, quién publicó su autobiografía en
1991, ‘vestidas y Desvestidas’ donde se declara a sí mismo el ‘modisto de las estrellas’.
libro pletórico de anécdotas del mundo de la farándula televisiva que parece
fascinante a muchas personas y queda en evidencia en que el libro se reeditó en la
friolera de 10,000 ejemplares en sucesivas ediciones. Julio había nacido el 18 de mayo
de 1920 en ahualulco de mercado, estado de Jalisco.
Marqués del Rivero en insurgentes Norte, el sastre Ignacio Orendain que vendía en el
Salón del Palacio, Laila Bath, Esteban Matisson, Jesús Ochoa en Guadalajara son
nombres de los que no hay memoria. Josefa y el guila descalza era una marca que aludía
al nacionalismo. su diseñadora nació en sabinas en Nuevo león, al inicio de los años 50’s
y viviendo en Puerto vallarta comenzó a hacer joyería y ropa de playa. es descubierta por
las celebridades internacionales y su estilo de caftanes en algodones coloridos, con mucha
influencia mexicana y al mismo tiempo ‘folk’, le hacen tener un negocio muy exitoso, con
tienda en Boston y presencia en las departamentales de Usa. Hay quién percibe a Josefa con
superlativos, pero aún faltaría encontrar una figura femenina equivalente a Valdiosera.
en la imagen del joven adolfo Patiño tomada en una gran tienda (309), se ve que la moda
tanto como las identidades estaban cambiando en los setentas. Una figura de gran
arraigo popular y que marcaba el gusto del público como Juan Gabriel (298) hubiera
sido inimaginable unas décadas atrás en las que el machismo solo permitía prototipos
masculinos como los del Charro Cantor. Abel Quezada el genial caricaturista, hace un
comentario acerca de la moda como un complot del ‘tercer sexo’ y que por eso existía
una profusión en las modas ‘unisex’ de ese tiempo.Nota al margen, en una esquina del
cartón se ve como Valdiosera prefiere escapar de ese complot. (302)
308 309
carlos somonte / serie punks / coudad de méxico / 1983-1985 / cortesía somonte
son los años ochenta... y ahí está
riCarDo santana que tenía ecos de las líneas de Mugler y Montana a
la mexicana; Julián MaCeDa en la confección de prendas masculinas,
raMón herrera y alejanDro solís, liz kena, Miguel garCía, juan
Briseño, isaBel De grenaDa, MóniCa aBouMraD, jana jaFFe, la marca
aspasia De Martha riestra, WanDa aMieiro y javier lario.
Un inicio de década optimista
que acabará con crisis económica
El español lario (321-324), inicia su carrera en 1979 como aparadorista
y devaluación, el SIDA y de
y diseñador de moda en Pixie Fashion (299-301). En 1980 creó su propia
remate el terremoto, haciendo
línea de accesorios y un año después lanzó su primera colección de ropa que
que esta década sea un verdadero
firmó también con su nombre; desde 1982 además de desfiles de moda hizo
cambio de paradigma.
programas de televisión como ViDeoMoDa y viDeo-CosMos. Era responsable
de la imagen y vestuario de valores BaCarDí y diseñó la imagen de
El 9 de diciembre de 2015 falleció
Alejandra Guzmán, Thalía ,Yuri, Pandora, Eugenia León y Mecano.
de neumonía, sergio oCaña.
Diseñador sampetrino, regio, que
Por su parte, WanDa aMieirio, diseñadora de origen puertorriqueño, vino
en la década de los 80’s cambió
a Mx porque se casó con un mexicano y comenzó en 1986, desde entonces
de rumbo de la arquitectura a la
ha vendido en el palaCio. En el siglo XXI se ha unido su hija Oriela en el
moda, estudiando en St Martins y
diseño. Sorprendentemente en 2017 todavía goza de un presencia saludable
fundando la marca ConCeptos.
en redes y venta en línea, cosa que hemos visto no es muy común pues las
Ocaña junto con zuleMa olivares,
marcas mexicanas no tienden a ser ni longevas ni prósperas.
raMón guerrero y MarCelo ríos se
les conoció como: ‘la ola regia’
Si en los años setenta queda la huella de Max Clemente entonces, el fotógrafo
que define la imagen de las siguientes dos décadas es: Carlos soMonte.
A finales de los setenta,
Todo mexicano tiene referentes a sus imágenes pues videos de Fobia, Café
anna Fusoni había establecido
Tacuba, La Maldita. Imágenes de Sasha, Luis Miguel son identificables con
la primera seMana De la MoDa en
su estilo. El proceso cruzado con su peculiar color, y las fotos que tomó a
México, al mismo tiempo que se
subculturas que surgían en ese entonces como los punks de barriada (311) o la
convierte en columnista de moda
colaboración que hizo con el diseñador de vanguardia Dhyan pritaMo (313),
los diarios ovaCiones y noveDaDes y
trabajos que se ven informados de la escena mundial y con las ganas de hacer
promueve el salón Boutique. (320)
una foto de moda mexicana de avanzada.
310 311
revista somos hermanos / enero 2004
312
313
carlos somonte / moda dyhan pritamo / analia diablo / 1988 / cortesía somonte
El que se fundara una carrera
de moda fue determinante para
profesionalizar la idea del diseño en
México. Además de ser la escuela
pionera, desde 2016 fue nombrada
en el ranking de las top 100 Fashion
n la televisión causan sChools in the world en el que
furor la telenovela aparecen sólo dos universidades
‘Cuna De loBos’ y el programa de moda en Mx. la jannette klein
iván aguirre / vestido en neopreno / daniela saldaña / revista spoon / 2014 / cortesía universidad jannette klein
nocturno ‘Mala noChe no’. y la Universidad Iberoamericana.
Un periódico importante de la época era ‘Novedades’ que compró una licencia para
elaborar la revista Vogue México (324) desde sus oficinas en la calle de Balderas. El editor
general Noé agudo, recopiló a un grupo de escritores de primera línea : carlos monsivaís,
Alberto Ruy Sánchez, Luis Carlos Emerich, Luis Guillermo Piazza, Margo Glantz... un quién
es quién de la intelectualidad mexicana, generando textos de gran calidad.
Para hacer los contenidos de moda, un modelo masculino que desde la década anterior
había conquistado las pasarelas europeas, Héctor de Anda, ahora genial editor, dirigía
los shootings, editoriales y promocionales, y se mantendría en el cargo de 1980 a 1994,
ganando tres premios Omni al mejor editor de moda. difundiendo las marcas del diseño
nacional, llenando las páginas tanto de ropa de las tiendas departamentales como de
una perspectiva de apoyo al talento nacional en la ropa, las marcas, los fotógrafos y
los escenarios. Vogue México hacía las veces de un medio de sociales, una revista con
artículos en profundidad y un impulsor de la moda mexicana.
Posteriormente Héctor de anda hizo un exitoso salto al mundo del arte con una
excelente producción plástica y en el 2010 se casó con Jesús ibarra de la exitosa dupla
ibarra + Bertholdo.
cabe mencionar que el premio Omni creado por Víctor Juárez fue el galardón nacional
que desde 1983 hasta 1995, era el referente en el reconocimiento
a lo mejor de los profesionales de la moda en méxico.
de 1986 a 1990 la revista Vértigo del multifácetico Manuel Zavala, era el equivalente
mexicano a las revistas de vanguardia británicas como I-D, the Face y Blitz, que
sorprendentemente llegaban cotidianamente a mx.
en las páginas de Vértigo, se veían las propuestas de moda
de vanguardia, desde Amieiro, a Lario, hasta las de los
regios como Zulema Olivares.
(318-325)
316 317
E ntonces en los ochentas
oías a ‘the Cure’ y con los mismos
pelos y look a los ‘CaiFanes’.
Te ibas al ‘9’, leías la sección
de alaska en vértigo. En 1986
Fusoni, funda el MoDapreMio,
concurso y plataforma para dar
acceso a los jóvenes diseñadores.
manuel zavala y alonso / revista vértigo / 1987 / cortesía manual zavala / colección trendo.mx
manuel zavala y alonso / revista vértigo / 1987 / cortesía manuel zavala / colección trendo.mx *andonella / ochenteros / 2015
322
323
324
325
anuncio / furor products / juan canedo / revista vertigo / 1988 / cortesía manuel zavala / colección trendo.mx
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MAN BRAID EVERYDAY CA- CRAFT BEER BUSHWICK, VHS TRUFFAUT QUINOA MIGAS
RRY KALE CHIPS, HEIRLOOM HEALTH GOTH XOXO SKA- MICRODOSING STUMPTOWN.
En tiempo de Don Porfirio En 1946, un artista norteamericano Ad Reinhardt, dibujaba
FAP CRAY BIODIESEL BANJO TEBOARD CRONUT SCHLITZ GODARD SUBWAY TILE
se había prohibido una expresión en tono de broma explicaciones didácticas acerca de que era, y cómo
NEUTRA JIANBING. POKE SCENESTER YR INTELLIGENT- NARWHAL VHS SCHLITZ CRO-
popular: las pinturas murales en las entender el arte. En ‘How to look at modern art in...’ dice que todo
COLD-PRESSED SCENESTER SIA. NUT.
pulquerías. Entonces, al triunfo de el tronco del arte moderno está basado en Braque, Matisse y Picasso,
PBR&B LOCAVORE, LETTER-
la revolución Vasconcelos, Best, con raíces en Van Gogh y Gauguin. Que de sus ramas se dividía en
PRESS BANJO HOODIE HOT MEDITATION HELVETICA MAN BRAID TUMBLR VE-
Diego Rivera & Co. llevaron la idea abstractos, entre ellos Mondrian, Léger y hasta Duchamp.
CHICKEN HUMBLEBRAG. MESSENGER BAG UGH BIT- GAN, GREEN JUICE GEN-
de poder hacer murales en Palacio Y otra rama, podrida y quebrada por el peso de un montón de estorbos,
MUMBLECORE HEALTH GOTH TERS. KINFOLK CHIA FAP, TRIFY HELL OF BANH MI
Nacional, como una declaración la social-surrealista.
DIY HELVETICA. RAW DENIM FREEGAN WAYFARERS SELVA- EVERYDAY CARRY MICRO-
de la vuelta a lo popular, lo
THUNDERCATS KOGI VAPE GE DISRUPT PABST UMAMI LA DOSING MARFA DISTILLERY
auténtico del alma nacional. De la rama cuelgan: los artistas que sólo Crean para ConCursos /
YOU PROBABLY HAVEN’T CROIX. HASHTAG HUMBLE- WAISTCOAT HEALTH GOTH
aquellos que hacen arte en función del tema -suBjeCt Matter- / y
HEARD OF THEM, VEXILLOLO- BRAG SHOREDITCH, LA CROIX PBR&B. STUMPTOWN ECHO
Con esos ideales, rivera, orozCo sorprendentemente para nosotros: MexiCan art inFluenCe ö.ö
GIST ASYMMETRICAL PABST LITERALLY AUSTIN TUMBLR PARK CLICHE, XOXO SCENES-
y siqueiros declararon: no
POST-IRONIC SALVIA FRAN- KITSCH PITCHFORK ECHO TER NORMCORE BROOKLYN
hay Más ruta que la nuestra. si lo apliCaMos al Diseño De MoDa ConteMporáneo, MarCa Muy
ZEN TOUSLED MAN BRAID PARK FINGERSTACHE. DREA- HELL OF LYFT BUSHWICK.
Declarando un monopolio en Bien esos tres peligros: se pueDe partiCipar en ConCursos pero no
PITCHFORK. SARTORIAL MCATCHER FOOD TRUCK JEAN SHORTS AESTHETIC
el arte, hasta que en los sesenta DeBe ser el úniCo Motivo De CreaCión / la ineFeCtiviDaD De aquellas
TILDE TUMERIC READYMADE POP-UP LOCAVORE COPPER COLORING BOOK, DISTILLERY
un grupo de artistas, los mismos ColeCCiones que se pierDen en la narrativa y que no son ni práCtiCas,
MASTER CLEANSE, TATTOOED MUG. HELVETICA MUM- LOCAVORE AUTHENTIC
que hablaban de la zona rosa, ni atraCtivas, ni en tenDenCia pero en las que sólo iMporta el teMa /
POUTINE HUMBLEBRAG AF BLECORE ENNUI, HOODIE BLUE BOTTLE FAM LISTICLE
dijeron que había que abolir la y partiCularMente la neCesiDaD De alejarse Del FolklorisMo raMplón
HEIRLOOM SUBWAY TILE STUMPTOWN YOLO PRISM. ETSY. MARFA 3 WOLF MOON
‘Cortina Del nopal’ y hacer un para explorar nuevas enCarnaCiones De la iDentiDaD.
PRISM ICELAND. PUG MICRO- SWAG HELVETICA ACTUALLY BEFORE THEY SOLD OUT,
arte de ruptura. Buscar en el
DOSING TRUST FUND STUMP- CELIAC IRONY, GREEN JUICE ART PARTY CELIAC SCHLITZ
extranjero formas mejores que No en los ochentas sino en 2017, uno de los diseñadores más
TOWN TILDE, UNICORN LI- RETRO QUINOA CRONUT POK SHOREDITCH HUMBLEBRAG
las nacionalistas. interesantes resolviendo esta ecuación es riCarDo seCo. Originario de
TERALLY PRISM UMAMI MEH POK. MUMBLECORE VEGAN WAISTCOAT. UNICORN BES-
Torreón, Coahuila, comenzó una carrera de negocios para arriesgarlo
8-BIT NEXT LEVEL. PINTEREST, GASTROPUB POKE CRAY LITERALLY, YOU
En resumen, es como palpita el todo en búsqueda de cumplir su vocación en la moda y presentar su
BROOKLYN LOMO 3 WOLF PROBABLY HAVEN’T HEARD
arte mexicano desde entonces. primera colección en Mx. en el año 2002. Clásicos inmediatos como
GOCHUJANG CHAMBRAY MOON CHARTREUSE SEITAN. OF THEM FORAGE ROOF
Nacionalismo vs los tenis neW BalanCe cubiertos con tramas y dibujos huiCholes, le
VEXILLOLOGIST, VAPE PARTY WOKE OCCUPY UGH.
internacionalismo intercalados. hicieron catapultarse para ser el único mexicano presentando en las
SCHLITZ LOCAVORE ROOF RACLETTE AESTHETIC VICE SNACKWAVE NARWHAL
Después de la ruptura, vinieron pasarelas del neW york Fashion Week y con presencia en eventos
PARTY. TOUSLED MEG- SCHLITZ, PICKLED WILLIAM- LIVE-EDGE, PORTLAND MEH
‘los grupos’ y luego el ‘neo- como la exposición gloBal Fashion Capitals en el Fashion Institute of
GINGS CELIAC, HELVETICA SBURG DISRUPT UGH. OFFAL DIY BEARD PALEO LA CROIX
MexiCanisMo’ que acabó cuando Technology FIT en Nueva York, junto a Carla FernánDez en el 2015.
AUTHENTIC EVERYDAY CA- 3 WOLF MOON HOT CHIC- VIRAL. SEMIOTICS VENMO
todo mundo se volvió conceptual
RRY MIXTAPE. MIXTAPE POK KEN GLUTEN-FREE ARTISAN, VEGAN PLAID BESPOKE CHI-
en México... hace 30 años...AF! Su colección juntos together del 2017 es un inteligente ejercicio de
POK MAN BUN POLAROID. LETTERPRESS BEARD FOUR LLWAVE.
diseño en el que los símbolos nacionales, las frases fundacionales de
TUMBLR ACTUALLY CORN- DOLLAR TOAST FRANZEN.
Las luchas del arte -aunque no se Benito Juárez, y el encuentro de los colores y los blasones de Estados
HOLE, PRISM OCCUPY KITSCH ENNUI BICYCLE RIGHTS 90’S CLICHE TYPEWRITER BLOG,
habla de ello- tienen eco en la Unidos y México. Su trabajo demuestra algo que estamos olvidando: la
COPPER MUG WHATEVER INTELLIGENTSIA ART PARTY, VINYL BANJO ORGANIC
arena de los diseños y la moda. identidad mexicana también es un melting pot.
MLKSHK FARM-TO-TABLE HUMBLEBRAG CHARTREUSE IPHONE SELFIES CRAY CHIA.
Si los tres grandes deslumbraban Que no puede refugiarse y aislarse sino tiene que convertirse en algo vivo.
CELIAC PALEO RAMPS HE- PLAID. CORNHOLE BIODIESEL NARWHAL OFFAL MUMBLE-
con su peso, Best-CovarruBias-el Ese mismo mensaje es el tema de Mextilo: entendamos el pasado, para
LLA. BROOKLYN FANNY PACK CHAMBRAY, YOLO HELVETICA CORE KICKSTARTER, CHICHA-
Chango abren la puerta a otra crear nuevas identidades a través de la moda. :D #juntostogether
KALE CHIPS FRANZEN, SNAC- POUR-OVER XOXO EVERYDAY RRONES SYNTH 8-BIT POP-UP.
KWAVE SKATEBOARD POKE CARRY GLOSSIER TRY-HARD MASTER CLEANSE TOTE BAG
326 327
328
329
adolfo patiño / marco de referencia apócrifo / méxico neza york / 1992 / mixta varia / colección trendo.mx
330
331
332-337 / desirée navarro / el libro de la moda en méxico / 2002 / cortesía desirée navarro
modelaje y por supuesto el diseño de moda.
332 333
El final del siglo XX tenía una estructura de la moda en la que cada diseñador organizaba sus eventos sin Lo mismo que sucede con Wanda Amieiro y en cambio Izet y Hazel Baeza siendo una marca multicitada
las plataformas actuales. Se mandaban invitaciones por correo, no existían las redes sociales. Y eso impactaba en en aquel entonces, no tienen referencia alguna en las redes, que es el mismo caso de un importante diseñador
la manera de captar la atención y la imaginación de su público. como Gene Matouk, del que no hay memorias digitales.
Dos décadas después ¿cómo se puede cuantificar la existencia de diseñadores de los que no existen En el caso de Ernesto Hernández tuvo un activo desempeño con tiendas en la Condesa, primero
referencias o ellos mismos eligieron dedicarse a otras cosas? En 2017 una marca de moda como Sarah Bustani, haciendo carrera en la moda masculina, presencia en pasarelas; y después cambió de latitud para continuar
aún cuando aparentemente no tiene la presencia de marca que tuvo en un principio tiene 50,000 seguidores con su labor tanto en la docencia como producción y venta de colecciones; y hasta un congreso
en facebook, venta en línea y página web propia. espaCio MoDa 2017, todo en Cancún, por lo que revitaliza su presencia y refrenda su actividad creadora.
334 335
Una moda paralela es la que trazan de Julio Chávez a Héctor Terrones, pasando por el diseñador Jorge García Cárdenas Mitzy provenía de una familia de campesinos muy humildes de Michoacán
Mitzy, la de los exCesos MaxiMalistas que atienden al mundo de la farándula y que en México era un que llegó a CDMx y de manera fortuita comenzó a hacer vestidos para un amigo suyo que se convertiría en
segmento de mercado importante en el mundo en el que las grandes televisoras dominaban las industrias del un travesti famoso ‘Francis’ y de ahí, hizo los conectes necesarios para establecer su marca, con hitos como
entretenimiento logrando imaginarios en los que la gente acababa usando moda a partir de la estética de ‘las el vestido de novia de Thalía, o el vestuario de Verónica Castro. Con sucursales en Zona Rosa y en Beverly
estrellas’, pero que sufrió un gran cambio cuando con el internet la manera en la que la gente se divierte y Hills, cabría pensar si el adjetivo moda en México no estará más en sintonía de sus creaciones que de los
concibe la fama se transformó radicalmente, las televisoras de bajada, y youtube para arriba. imaginarios de vanguardia para el gran público en nuestro país.
336 337
en una época donde las telenovelas capturan la imaginación del público
-Alcanzar una estrella, María Mercedes, El premio mayor-, un tiempo donde en la
música, abismos estéticos como ov7, Kabah, anahí y Fey suenan con ritmos predecibles,
el mainstream se apoderaba de la imaginación popular.
en contrapartida cuando la vida nocturna pasó del antro establecido a los raves en
casas y terrenos, la moda buscó formas en las que a través del performance, había un
intento de crear imaginarios de moda alternativos.
Martín Rentería (20/12/65) es un diseñador que en esa época conjuntó la idea del
arte acción con la moda, presentándose en foros artísticos como el 1er Festival Mes
del Performance en el museo del chopo, organizado por Prado en 1992. con el mismo
interés Cristina Faesler que había fundado en 1992 control Bureau, una agencia que
hacía proyectos artísticos y culturales, organizó en 1997 el evento Modas Terminales,
ojales apocalípticos o los dobladillos del caos. y en 1998 Modas de Juguete ... de
hilvanado nacional y corte universal... o lo que es lo mismo... tengo una muñeca
vestida de azul. eventos que bajo una convocatoria buscaban la creación sobre el
cuerpo de prendas experimentales, que se presentaron el primero en el cine metropolitan
y el segundo en el claustro de sor Juana. Faesler en algún momento había estudiado
alta costura en la chambre syndicale de la Haute couture en París.
el curador Pancho López tuvo una propuesta similar de 2002 a 2013, primero en el
museo del chopo con un encuentro de moda alternativa llamado modales ‘pasarela
de atuendos hechos con materiales inusuales como semillas, alambre, cintas de video,
dulces, cables eléctricos y papel, entre otros, en donde el arte se incorpora al mundo
de la moda’. y después en el teatro de la ciudad enfatizando lo artístico, con .modales;
llevándolo al 2015 a lo académico con un diplomado en san carlos/UNam.
lo que no deja de ser interesante pues la UNam no tiene en su curricula estudios en
moda aunque muchas veces coquetea con el asunto.
339-341 / cristina faesler / control bureau / modas terminales, ojales apocalípticos / 1997 / cortesía cristina faesler / colección trendo.mx
boutique Todos mexicanos nacidos entre 1964 y 1972 -por lo que en ese
entonces rondaban los 30 años-. De los demás MaCario jiMénez,
néstor osuna, Cynthia góMez, MauriCio olvera, el colectivo
del 13/12/2ooo al 18/o3/2oo1 el zaino así como héCtor Mijangos, completaban el retrato de
Museo De arte Carrillo gil al sur generación. En el propio catálogo se declara que dos años
de la ciudad de México, presentó después ‘casi 3/4 partes de los participantes en la muestra dejaron
la exposición ‘Boutique’, primera de hacer diseño de moda y se dedicaron a cosas completamente
muestra con el tema de la moda distintas: organizar eventos corporativos, administrar sus marcas,
que se presentó en nuestro país diseñar accesorios y mobiliario’.
con una curaduría de ana elena
Mallet. Necia, insistió y pudo Por esas fechas, 2oo2, se funda la Cooperativa 244 en una naciente
producir el catálogo aunque éste Condesa, en la calle de Ámsterdam: ‘12 diseñadoras -María
se presentó dos años después de rosa Manzini, aDriana olivera -la Pájara- que venía del mundo
concluida la muestra. del teatro, Fiorenza CorDero cuyos accesorios son unas obras de
arte, taMara Cruz, xiMena FernánDez, roWena Morales que se
En ese entonces el director especializó en joyería en Inglaterra, ClauDia suinaga diseñadora
del museo osWalDo sánChez gráfica y aprendió joyería en Florencia, soFía Massün quien
se dió a la tarea de acoger en estudió diseño de moda en Barcelona, Malena De la riva una de
el museo manifestaciones que las vestuaristas para cine y comerciales más buscadas del mercado,
tradicionalmente no se habían genoveva álvarez hija de Manuel Álvarez Bravo que teje a mano
incluido dentro del terreno de cada una de sus piezas y... Carla FernánDez, historiadora del arte
lo artístico. ‘Esta muestra buscó y luchadora social, que trabaja con comunidades indígenas y crea
brindarle un enfoque teórico a la sincretismo entre lo étnico y lo moderno. A unas les gusta la seda a
creación de moda, presentando un otras el poliéster; unas trabajan plata; otras prefieren el plástico…
panorama general de lo realizado El punto es que en la diversidad está el gusto’. De las que una vez
en la década de los noventas por más un gran porcentaje no continuarán con actividades de moda y
creadores mexicanos que han de las que la de mayor calado es Carla.
trabajado lo mismo en México que
en el extranjero y que, a través de En ese entonces la plataforma de finales del siglo XX era
sus prendas, han logrado ofrecer a ‘Días De MoDa’, que se convirtió en ‘Fashion Week’ para luego
sus consumidores una herramienta fusionarse o competir con DFashion, IDM y al final acabó como
de identidad, un estilo de vida lo entendemos hoy en ‘MerCeDes Benz Fashion Week’ que recién
particular y sobre todo glamour y cumplió 10 años en el 2016. (421)
entretenimiento’.
Como colofón, en el libro, hicieron el pronóstico que el siguiente
Para ello se conjuntaron 9 marcas, siglo, con el fenómeno de la globalización ‘no sería raro que dentro
que eran en realidad 11 diseñadores de pocos años México pudiera llegar a tener un papel destacado en la
porque alessanDro alviani y león creación de moda mundial’. En el tenor en el que Colombia y Brasil
Felipe roMero iban en dueto, igual ya habían dado pasos para lograr la internacionalización. A 17 años de
que julia y renato FranCo e izet y empezado el siglo XXI, esta buena voluntad aún sigue en proceso de
hazel Baeza. construcción. :S :O #averpacuando
342 343
344
345
343-347 / ana elena mallet / boutique recuento de una exposición / 2002 / cortesía ana elena mallet / colección trendo.mx
346
347
boutique recuento de una exposición / este texto fernando toledo / 2002 / cortesía ana elena mallet / colección trendo.mx
cronología de museos y la moda en México
1946. Ramón Valdiosera. Museo De la MoDa MexiCana
1977. Claustro de Sor Juana Museo De la inDuMentaria luis Márquez roMay
1977. Museo Universitario CyA si los artistas nos vistieran
1992. Casona II la historia Del vestiDo De los años 20 a los 50
1992. Galería Florencia Riestra Corte y ConFeCCión, BioMBos y MoDas
1993. Museo de la Estampa exposiCión pierre CarDin
1995. Centro Arte Contemporáneo thierry Mugler / FotograFía
1998. Museo de la ciudad de Mx intiMiDaD, MoDa y Diseño. MéxiCo entrañaBle
2ooo. Museo Carrillo Gil Boutique aeM
2oo2. Exarzobispado satellites oF Fashion: Diseño BritániCo ConteMporáneo
ana elena mallet / rosa mexicano, moda e identidad, la mirada de dos generaciones / casa del lago / 2009
2oo3. Museo Soumaya puDor y livianDaD, tres siglos De MoDa en MéxiCo.
EN 1993 MUSEO DE LA ESTAMPA PIERRE CARDIN
2oo5. Fotoseptiembre / traMa y estilo exaCtituDes ari versluis & ellie uyttenBroek MM
Centro de la imagen gp happy viCtiMs kyoiChi suzuki MM
gótiCos MiChel MallarD MM
solve sunDsBo MM
una viDa Con estilo / tuFiC yazBek
Mextilo aeM gp
2oo6. Palacio de Bellas Artes sueños que CaMinan / salvatore FerragaMo
2oo7. Biblioteca Vasconcelos Destituyen al DireCtor por perMitir un shooting para palaCio
2oo8. Museo Franz Mayer MariMekko. textil, MoDa, interiores. FinlanDia
2oo9. Museo Franz Mayer zanDra rhoDes. pasión por la MoDa
2oo9. Casa del lago rosa MexiCano, MoDa e iDentiDaD aeM
2oo9. Fundación Sebastián ColeCtiva De Foto De MoDa 9 FotógraFos
2oo9. Galería Jesús Gallardo, León MéxiCo De autor. joseFa & ColeCCión Mapelli
2o1o. exConvento De la MerCeD Museo De la inDuMentaria y la MoDa (FalliDo)
2o12. Exarzobispado anDy Warhol /harper’s Bazaar years
2o13. Museo MoDo roMa ConDesa 111 años De historia / palaCio De hierro aeM
2o13. Museo Franz Mayer 60 anni Di MaDe in italy. Moda y Diseño
2o13. Museo Frida Kahlo las experienCias engañan/ los vestiDos De FriDa
2o13. Palacio de Hierro 125 años De estilo aeM
2o14. Casa Pineda Covalin. Qro. pineDa Covalín
2o14. Museo Franz Mayer asvoFF MéxiCo
2o15. CCultural de España agatha ruiz De la praDa
2o15. Marco Monterrey CoMing into Fashion. un siglo De Foto en ConDé nast
2o15. Proyecto Arrebato origen. FotograFía De MoDa
2o15. Museo Franz Mayer el reBozo MaDe in MexiCo
2o15. Museo Castillo de Chapultepec hilos De historia
2o16. Foto Museo 4 Caminos pose FotograFía De MoDa MéxiCo hoy gp
2o16. Hospicio Cabañas / Gdl haunteD Magazine / el liBro De las MoDelos
2o16. Proyecto Arrebato vestiDo en MéxiCo
2o16. Museo Jumex la DiseñaDora DesCalza, un Manual../ Carla FernánDez
2o16. Palacio de Iturbide el arte De la inDuMentaria y la MoDa en MéxiCo 1940-2015 aeM
2o16. Museo Franz Mayer Beatriz russek. traMa MoDa MexiCana ConteMporánea
2o16. Museo de Arte Moderno CristóBal BalenCiaga
2o17. Terreno Baldío trista: una DéCaDa ContanDo historias aeM
348 349
Por lo pronto comenzando con el siglo, la
revista harper’s Bazaar MéxiCo llegaba a
la verdadera mayoría de edad y para celebrar
sus 21, lanzaron un número especial para analizar
qué era la MoDa en MéxiCo.
En España Francisco Franco fue el Era octubre del año 2ooo. En Mextilo la película (Prado, 2o14) ana
dictador de 1936 hasta su muerte elena Mallet menciona que habló con la revista y que sabiendo que
en 1975. Una vez desaparecido, al mismo tiempo ella preparaba la exposición ‘Boutique’ de plano le
la sociedad española tuvo un dijeron que ‘no había moda mexicana, que habían tenido que hacer la
destape que se conoció como nota, pero que no había producción y que había sido problemático al
‘La movida’ y que fue decir lo menos el poder armar el grupo’.
fundamental para romper con
los esquemas y tabúes obsoletos Al ver la foto de generación cabe preguntarse si en mayor
de la sociedad del pasado. medida no es un resumen del siglo XX más que un presagio del futuro
que estaba por venir, pues casi 20 años después como ya se hizo
En México, el año 2ooo comenzó costumbre la gran mayoría cambio de giro, o inclusive falleció como
con promesas increíbles. Por fin en el caso de Manuel MénDez y gerarDo Dragonetti.
después de 75 años se acababa el
gobierno del PRI, y el país entero Aún así creadores como Cynthia góMez (346, 347) y MaCario jiMénez
esperaba una transición pacífica (344, 345) repiten en la cuenta hecha en ‘Boutique’. Posteriormente ella
hacia un mundo totalmente tendrá un buen desempeño en la academia, la docencia y la producción.
diferente. Y el, en la creación de sus colecciones y propuestas. En el caso de Mijangos
351
352
353
giancarlo cruz / el payaso de guadalupe witnessed by john mcenroe / 2009 / cortesía giancarlo cruz
juventud divino tesoro
Marvin presentó colección ese
año, pero obviamente pasó por
...ya te vas para no volver, cuando quiero llorar no lloro un período muy dícil. Ocho
y a veces lloro sin querer! >.< :..( años después Myq la marca se
levanta una vez más y se presenta
En la promesa perenne de que la década que sea ‘ahora sí!, en MBFW 16, con los adjetivos
esta es la década de la moda mexicana!’, que la caracterizan de ser juvenil,
fue sorprendente que la siguiente generación haya sido tan joven, a la vanguardia y divertida.
esencialmente rebelde y dolorosamente fugaz.
En una crónica de esa pasarela
El relevo estaba armado alrededor de un nuevo grupo de gente con post-mortem del 2oo8, dice que
propuesta por un lado: ale quesaDa, trista, MalaFaCha; pero al mismo en el front-row estaban teMores,
tiempo el grupo de teaMo, ManCanDy, paola hernánDez y por supuesto César arellano, Mike salas y
teMores (359, 367), y Marvin & quetzal (362-366). otros más. Lo perturbador es que
‘En la ciudad de México, el mundo hipster es esencialmente una sea una lista de puros muertos a
expresión del confort clasemediero’ opina el periodista menos de 1O años de distancia,
Daniel hernánDez, en su libro ‘el Bajón y el Delirio’ publicado en el 2o11. y todos en circunstancias nunca
esculturas: andré allar / la juventud * germán nájera + iván flores / la juventud / 2008
Muy curioso recuento de los años del desmadre nocturno del cambio de esclarecidas totalmente.
siglo en el que aparecen cronicados zeMMoa (359), César arellano el
fotógrafo de ‘Diario De Fiestas’ y en un capítulo de título ‘Una serpiente El 7 de enero de 2015 teMores
emplumada con lentes Burberry’, quetzalCoátl rangel. hizo el mismo viaje que Quetzal
cayendo desde el tercer piso de
En el año 2003 al diseñador Marvin Durán le presentaron a un su edificio, tenía 31 años. Había
chico tabasqueño de pinta alternativa. Marvin había nacido el 9 debutado en 2oo8 en DFashion.
de noviembre de 1980 en los Andes Venezolanos, y Quetzal el 6 de Y sólo presentó cuatro pasarelas
enero de 1985, por lo que uno tenía 22 y el otro 18. La construcción para después dedicarse a otras
de una imagen imposible les daba la entrada a todas las fiestas y la cosas. ‘-Somos muy jóvenes
‘crónica social’. Quetzal en ese momento estudiaba en Casa FranCia, pero no creo que haya nadie en
donde también estaba inscrito Carlos teMores, pero duraron muy México que tenga el criterio,
poco tiempo, apenas un par de semestres, y se dieron de baja. de entender que hacemos como
moda, por qué no van y le
Le dieron vueltas si le ponían ‘Rata Margarita’ o ‘Je n’aime pas preguntan eso a Rei kawakubo
l’ecole’ pero al final se decidieron por Marvin y quetzal (Myq), y -pero bueno, ni siquiera saben
se presentaron con una pasarela en el Hostal Virreyes en septiembre quién es Kawakubo-’
de 2oo4. Desde su taller en José Ceballos 52, en la San Miguel
Chapultepec comenzaron a crear prendas cortadas, mezclas de En la necrológica que le
algodón y seda y estampados de sus rostros -capas, blusones, dedicó la Cámara Nacional de
pantijeans. Subían sus creaciones a MyspaCe y comenzaron a crear la Industria del Vestido dice:
una comunidad de seguidores. Se presentaron en los Fashion Week ‘siempre individualista quería que
de 2oo7 y 2oo8, con el patrocinio de marcas como aMeriCan apparel el mercado lo entendiera, sin él
y Sauza, pero algo estaba cambiando. Su logo de corazón se convirtió tener que entender al mercado’ y
en unos colmillos sangrantes y el humor entre ambos creadores cada en ambas declaraciones se resume
vez era más tenso. En una época de excesos Quetzal dependía del un aspecto de esa generación
alcohol. El 12 de septiembre del 2008 apareció estrellado en el cubo de creadores: la incapacidad de
de su edificio: había caído 4 pisos. Tenía 23 años. crear imaginarios incluyentes.
360
tony solís / marvin y quetzal / 2005
Una marca de moda depende para sobrevivir de poder convocar a todo tipo de consumidor que
encuentra en ese imaginario una multiplicidad de adjetivos incluyentes con los que se identifique.
el espíritu de estas marcas de principios de siglo era correcto en la rebeldía y la necesidad de romper
esquemas, pero equivocado en el sentido de que eran marcas cerradas a un cierto tipo de insider,
en fiestas correctas, con la actitud correcta, pero que no compraba y no alcanzaba a hacer la masa
crítica para volverlas emprendimientos viables y reales.
No hay que perder de vista que el propio Quetzal mencionaba: algo está pasando. Hay un
movimiento. estamos haciendo algo que hace referencia a nuestros orígenes. todo lo que hago tiene
referentes mexicanos. la línea de myq está inspirada en los indígenas mazahuas y tarahumaras,
y en las piñatas. la ciudad queda evocada en las prendas. los colores son neones, químicos, casi
agresivos. siempre hago referencias, pero las llevo a un nivel más global, no tan obvio. de otra
manera nada más es kitsch...’ -Tambíén estaba pensando en una moda nacional-
Un poco antes de ellos, y fuera de su ‘grupo’ otro diseñador Sergio Alcalá había abierto la
vanguardia en el siglo xxi con su exceso estético, un collage de influencias que tambíen podría
ser leído como kitschería pura. Tuvo un debut temprano a los 22 años en fashion eek 2006 - con
temas como Huichol Galáctico, a él le toco convertirse
en una especie de ‘outsider’, ni de ‘las modernas’ ni del establishment.
si el prototipo del ‘artista expresándose’ es la vía segura para fracasar como diseñador, en este caso
estos creadores quedarán para siempre como el ejemplo perfecto del ‘enfant terrible’. y si una muerte
siempre es dolorosa, cuantimás la de jóvenes prometedores. :( Fue el momento a destiempo para
jugar a la mexican ‘Party Monster’ (Bailey, 2003), y esto nos enseña que lo mismo que en el arte, la
bohemia excesiva no lleva a ningún lado, a menos que la fiesta sea creativa, divertida... y productiva.
de esa generación las chicas tuvieron otro desempeño: Ale Quesada, nació en cdmx en 1981, estudió
en casa Francia y puso su marca en 2oo6. su sello es la silueta como de niña en prendas alegres,
que cercano a esa estética lolicon le hicieron convertirse en un éxito de ventas en Japón. Ha hecho
colaboraciones con Nike y Grupo Axo, y sus colecciones actuales son tan coherentes, alegres y
oportunas, su presencia en redes tan fuerte, que llama la atención que pareciera su nombre no se
repite tanto como el de ciertas otras marcas que sólo aburren pero que todo mundo menciona y que
sería taboo describirlas como aburridas, fresas y ‘beiges’. Paola Hernández, nacida en el ‘82, es de
las pocas marcas mexicanas que cumplió el sueño de abrir tienda en Nueva York. Prendas que en
apariencia se ven sencillas, pero que sumando forma/ color / textura son ejercicios conceptuales.
Presentó colecciones en el Palacio de Hierro.
Un elemento fundamental, catalizador que hizo diferente a esta generación: fue que les tocó ser
los primeros en entender y usar el internet. Johann Mergenthaler, empresario, modelo y promotor
de iniciativas de moda comenta en Mextilo la película (Prado 2014): ‘...podemos hablar de una
historia de la moda en méxico, que es a partir de que nace el internet; antes podríamos hablar de la
prehistoria de la moda en mx, sin por supuesto sacar a nadie. Pero es que la diferencia es que alguien
que viva en una zona apartada de mx y no pueda ir a Ny, si se puede meter a internet y ver qué está
pasando afuera y participar . como andy torres que nació en irapuato y es una de las blogueras más
importantes del país. el internet es una pieza fundamental y la hemos usado muy bien.
362 363
jamie luca / marvin y quetzal / 2007 cortesía paragon models / marvin durán
364
365
367
fernando toledo / moda reforma / 22 enero 2011 / cortesía del períodico reforma
equipo se vió así (367):
373
374
malafacha / google + fashion / 2013
4 damas
anna fusoni
En un foro en una calle de Polanco sucedía algo un poco extraño, A lo largo de esta investigación se
había iluminación, modelos, maquillistas , el relajo generalizado revela, muy preponderante que
propio de cualquier evento de moda, pero sin gradas, raMón valDiosera BerMan es un
sin asientos ni público. Las pasarelas sucedían en un salón vacío. hombre de demasiados ‘primeros’:
Pero 2 millones de personas tomaban nota de lo que pasaba ahí... primer diseñador con la visión
a través de youtube. La primera plataforma de moda integradora de lo mexicano, primer
exclusivamente digital del mundo: google + Fashion, era el pasarela presentada en Nueva York,
invento de anna Fusoni y Mike alva director de mercadotecnia de primero en crear los trajes típicos
Google. Comenzando en 2o12, el proyecto tuvo sólo 5 ediciones, de los estados de la nación, primer
alrededor de 100 pasarelas, seguidas de hangouts para comentar y diseñador en escribir un libro de la
dar espacio a la crítica. Pero una serie de adelantos tecnológicos historia de la moda mexicana, -según
hicieron que fuera un proyecto adelantado a su tiempo: el poder fotos en el agn muy probablemente
comprar ahí mismo la prenda que ves en la pasarela con sólo el pionero en las agencias de
picarle; la existencia de rose, una asistente digital que utilizando modelos en el país-, primero en
tendencias y AI ayudaba al diseñador en la creación de sus pensar en el rosa MexiCano,
coleciones. Innovación, un proyecto de ruptura. y por todo eso el es
Pero no era la primera vez que Fusoni hacía algo así. el paDre De la MoDa MexiCana.
Por ahí de 1986 creó MoDa preMio que por 25 años fue el concurso Diseñadoras obscuras de las que no
para promover a los nuevos talentos del diseño. En sucesivas quedó más que una memoria parcial
encarnaciones su idea continuó: ConCurso De jóvenes CreaDores, son llamadas a prohijar la moda
MezClarte, ConCepto t3 -una plataforma de entrada al tiempo de mexicana y se llaman a sí mismas
MB-DFashion- y Creare - que en 2017 llegaba a diez ediciones. como su figura materna... Ño! >: /
En 1978 participa en la creación de la Semana de la Moda en México, Viajando para dar conferencias e
después su empresa ONC -oficina nacional de compras- organizó impartir clases me ha tocado ir a
salón Boutique y priMera visión. En 1985 el hotel donde presentaría los lugares más lejanos del país, y
el Salón cae en el terremoto y tuvo que levantarse y resolver, como ahí donde uno vaya esta Fusoni,
siempre ha hecho, reinventándose. dando conferencias cada semestre en
interMoDa, en Minerva Fashion, en
En editorial, en el presente, es directora tijuana innovaDora, en Pachuca,
de la revista ks, pero en el pasado ahí está ella. Y en cada sede la
fue directora de la revista ClauDia, gente la identifica, los estudiantes la
del FeMinova del diario Ovaciones. buscan, y ella se detiene y escucha.
378
ana elena mallet Su labor con Boutique, la primera
Viendo la lista de todas las exposiciones de moda que ha habido vez que la moda llegaba a un museo
en México (348) vergüenza nos había de dar, que cabe en una sola de arte contemporáneo.
cuartilla. Los espacios de la ‘cultura oficial’ han tenido escepticismo Y en el 2017 la retrospectiva de la
con la moda, por considerarla frívola, incluso en 2oo7 corrieron primera década de la marca Trista.
al director de la Mega-BiBlioteCa vasConCelos por el ‘crimen’ de
haber permitido en sus instalaciones un shooting para palaCio. Otro Del universo limitado de lo que
escándalo de explosión ‘controlada’ es la destrucción del ha sido la experiencia expositiva
Ex-convento de la Merced, por un proyecto sexenal a en moda en Mx., las muestras
destiempo que no cuajó: Museo De la inDuMentaria y la MoDa. más interesantes e inclusive
trascendentes son de su autoría.
Así, en en el libro ‘exhiBiting Fashion BeFore anD aFter 1971’, Amy
de la Haye plantea en 252 hojas una historia de las exhibiciones de Alguna vez Fusoni trabajó en el
moda en el mundo sajón. Y en esa perspectiva nos damos cuenta Vogue de Vreeland, y precisamente
que moda y museos, son en el mundo una dupla millonaria. Diana hizo el área de exposiciones
El presupuesto de la Secretaría de Cultura/Conaculta, ronda anual de moda del Met en donde Harold
los $5,343,000,000 MXN esa cantidad son aprox. $286 millones de Koda, o posteriormente Andrew
dólares, para toda la cultura, de todo el país: México. Bolton fueron los curadores. En
México, Mallet tiene que ser el
El MET de NY opera ‘nomás’ con $332 millones de dólares al equivalente a esas funciones en
año. Y de eso un gran porcentaje proviene de sus exposiciones de nuestro pequeño universo de moda.
moda, que son ‘blockbusters’ que atraen millones de espectadores : )
y se vuelven ‘conversation piece’ desde la gala Del Met, hasta los
catálogos y LA exposición anual. En el año 2oo5, el Centro de
la Imagen hacía un festival de
En 2016 una exposición de Ana Elena en el Palacio de Iturbide: fotografía, FotoseptieMBre. A veces
el arte De la inDuMentaria y la MoDa en MéxiCo 1940-2015, atrajo era temático, y así con el nombre de
cientos de miles de espectadores. Podemos ver que sus intereses traMa y estilo, se enfocó al mundo
curatoriales no son sólo caprichos personales, sino que la Mallet de la moda a través de la imagen.
entiende el zeitgeist que la rodea,
nivel local, nivel internacional. La Michel Mallard (384), hizo una
manera en la que los diseños y en serie de eventos relacionados
particular la moda son el punto de con la moda. En ese marco Ana
intersección entre la alta cultura y Elena Mallet, Alfonso Morales
la cultura popular. y yo, Gustavo Prado hicimos una
curaduría de fotografía y moda, de
rosa MexiCano, MoDa e iDentiDaD: nombre.... Mextilo. (de ahí salió
la MiraDa De Dos generaCiones el nombre antecedente, de la
en 2oo9 en la Casa del Lago, fue película y de este libro, aunque esa
la primera vez que se unían el exposición era otra cosa...).
mundo de Valdiosera con el de los
diseñadores contemporáneos como Mallet ha sabido cobijarnos en el
trista y MalaFaCha. Fue un año mundo de la moda a través de su
de entrevistas con el maestro. trabajo. Y aún le falta mucho por
mostrarnos... :D
381
sara galindo - ‘Yo no me quiero morir sin ver los nombres de nuestros diseñadores
Si durante 12 años estuvo al sonando en Nueva York y París’, dice en una entrevista y es una
frente de la revista Elle, no sólo preocupación legítima que todos compartimos: 500 hojas de Mextilo
es la experiencia editorial: y todavía no existe un nombre mexicano para el mundo que pueda
hay que hilar más fino. No sólo ser el equivalente Yamamoto-Japón /Balenciaga-España /Chanel-
es estar al frente de una revista, Francia... ¿¿y???/México :(
sino el utilizar una plataforma
así, no para promocionar las Lograr el éxito afuera, parte de que logremos el éxito en el mercado
marcas de siempre sino impulsar interno, y así en el 2017 junto con su socio johann Mergenthaler, Sara
el trabajo de los diseñadores se dió a la tarea de crear una nueva plataforma DiseñanDo MéxiCo 32
y las marcas mexicanas, lo que DMx32.
habla de una vocación peculiar
que se fue reforzando con los Si en CDMx se está viviendo el momento de las pasarelas en sedes
proyectos que siguieron. que van cambiando día con día durante la semana de la moda, este
proyecto lleva al concepto al extremo al buscar cambiar de estado en
elle MexiCo Diseña, un reality de cada presentación, hasta cumplir el objetivo de llevar este proyecto
diseño de moda de su autoría, en
de moda a los 32 estados de Mx.
algún momento catapultó a una
estrella como kris goyri (4o3).
No sólo presentando pasarelas, sino todo lo que rodea a la moda como
cultura: exposiciones, conferencias, el concepto de la fotografía de
Fueron pasos sucesivos, en la revista
moda, la experiencia del fashion film. Y además buscando siempre
promocionar, en el concurso
abrir puertas. Esto exigió hacer convocar a talento local para mostrarlo en su lugar de origen y además
un diagnóstico de ¿cuáles eran proyectarles hacia escenarios nacionales.
los problemas de las jóvenes
marcas mexicanas? Por supuesto Vocaciones en moda hay más que suficientes, pero cuando uno sabe
uno es la producción atada a la que al año egresan miles de alumnos de las carreras de moda en Mx,
comercialización haciendo un y que en su mayoría pronto abandonan o muy pocos harán carrera.
círculo vicioso. Para combatirlo Nos damos cuenta que las escuelas se volvieron licenciaturas, pero
surgió MexiCouture. sólo educan en aspectos técnicos
que poco se ajustan a la realidad del
El futuro de la moda no solo en mercado.
México, sino en el mundo, pasa
por el comercio electrónico. Entender al consumidor mexicano,
Ésta es una plataforma que busca entrar de lleno al mundo del
promover productos de alta gama, comercio digital, comprender la
de diseñadores mexicanos a través del necesidad de las redes sociales -en
internet y que conjunta una curaduría las que Sara es más que experta-,
especializada de los productos a la poder lograr la producción en
venta, constantemente buscando que escala, son todas las cosas que hacen
se está produciendo con nivel en el evidencia que lo que busca galinDo
país, y además educar al comprador es abrir puertas para lograr una moda
acerca de todas las ventajas que tiene mexicana de ‘a deveras’.
el comprar productos mexicanos.
382
michel mallard
1 caballero exposiciones, fotografía - de
todo tipo, retrato, moda-
creación de contenidos
audiovisuales, a final de cuentas
Si hablamos de pocos grados de separación tal vez el mexicano más
¿qué es? La respuesta obvia
cercano al centro de la moda mundial, la francesa, sea Mallard.
es Director Creativo, pero
el mismo lo definió mejor
En 2o14 editó un libro de arte con toda la historia de imágenes de la
en una entrevista cuando le
marca: louis vuitton Fashion photography. Que se lanzó con una
preguntaron que describiera
exposición en Singapur, también curada por el.
a qué se dedica en realidad,
contestó:
Su actividad editorial es impresionante y se lee como un quién es
Creative trouBleMaker.
quién de la moda contemporánea. De su autoría como curador-
editor, los 3 libros de Jean Baptiste Mondino, Steven Meisel, entre
Sus campos de trabajo se
otros. Ha organizado y curado exposiciones de Nick Knight, Guy
intersectan porque los conceptos
Bourdin, Saul Leiter, Melvin Sokolsky.
que crea, encarnados en
imágenes comparten básicamente
Ha estado al frente de la dirección artística de las revistas jalouse,
los mismos fundamentos
Marie Claire Japón, Blast. Y particularmente l’oFFiCiel y el
- composición, jerarquía,
Vogue Hommes International.
estructura, color… Lo necesario
para pensar visualmente y dar
De 1998 a 2o13 fue Director Artístico del hyères Festival
salida a la creación.
international De MoDe et De photographie, el encuentro que
presenta lo más interesante, retador y propositivo de la moda y la
En 2oo5 fue curador de
fotografía. Nombres como alaïa, Dries van noten, yaMaMoto
Fotoseptiembre y desde entonces
o William Klein y Oliverio Toscani son presencias normales en ese
de manera ocasional regresa a
festival. Ahi mismo en Hyères, Diane pernet
México cuando sus proyectos
fue talent sCout de 2oo2-2o11.
creativos lo traen por aquí.
Aunque radicado parisino
Ha hecho campañas tanto en el
durante muchos años, sus padres
concepto, como la foto y el video
siguen viviendo en México. Su
para perfumes azzaro, kenzo,
papá Ernesto Mallard, es un
jean paul gaultier o ines De la
artista Op/Kinético y con él
Fressange. En el diario la triBune,
tuvo los aprendizajes que fueron
Michel Mallard studio concibió
determinantes en su carrera.
un suplemento dedicado al lujo
Mallard siempre tiene trabajos
la triBune & Moi, proponiendo
y soluciones interesantes,
el diseño, y haciendo sus primeras
innovadores, frescos y relevantes.
portadas con retratos a personajes
como karl lagerFelD y Carla Bruni.
¿Cómo lo hace?
MantenienDo los ojos sieMpre
Entonces, si Mallard hace dirección
aBiertos a nuevas perspeCtivas y
artística, creación publicitaria,
apreCianDo el pasaDo. 3:)
diseño gráfico, curaduría de
384 385
Una marca mexicana con éxito. en el 2017 una marca como Pineda Covalín
tiene 74,ooo seguidores en facebook y 26,ooo likes en Instagram. Desde 1996, Cristina
Pineda y ricardo covalín establecieron en sus propias palabras ‘una búsqueda
cultural más que una marca de moda’.
la idea del estampado, en otros países ha permitido construir conceptos como
Marimekko, aquí los estampados en seda inspirados en las etnias, las tradiciones
y los íconos culturales del país, les permitieron construir un imaginario de marca
total: mascadas, corbatas, vestidos, zapatos, bolsos, huipiles, ponchos, anteojos, una
mascota: Xico. y colaboraciones con Macario Jiménez y los vladimirovich
No son los únicos, en el sentido de que en la segunda década del siglo xxi crecen o se
consolidan negocios de moda en méxico. Para tener alguna medida de su penetración en
el mercado, tal vez un indicador es su presencia en redes... (facebook fb, instagram ig)
así tenemos que:
en donde vemos que aún cuando las marcas de la ‘moda de autor’ están cubiertas por
las editoriales, ocupan las plataformas y las pasarelas, aún tienen mucho que construir
en cuanto a posicionamiento...
Pero que comparados con la idea de escala de las marcas mundiales, nos dejan fríos:
Alejandro Carlín (397). Hizo carrera en monterrey con la marca ‘Lola de Alejandro’,
después de haber estudiado en marangoni y en st. martins. Nació el 14 de febrero de
1979. Lanza en 2011 una marca premium con su nombre. Vende en Saks Fifth Avenue, en
su showroom de Goldsmith 38 Polanco y en la plataforma mexicouture.
Mancandy (4oo). Que Andrés Jiménez cante en medio de su pasarela es una ruptura que
deberíamos de agradecer en un medio de la moda que peca de corrección invitando
al bostezo. originario de cuernavaca, morelos y fotógrafo de profesión, llegó a Cdmx a
establecer su marca en 2oo7 cuando tenía 23 años. -nació el 25/11/1984. asimetría,
grafismo y mezcla irreverente de materiales, el mismo define que parte de:
‘el street style real mexicano, el que veo en el metro y el centro’.
Cihuah (401). Vanessa Guckel es una arquitecta francesa que en 2o12 abrió en México su
marca, que quiere decir ‘mujeres’ en náhuatl. tiene como sello el uso del blanco y negro
en problemas constructivos que llevan las formas geométricas a adjetivar las prendas
acercándolas a problemas de la construcción arquitectónica.
ris Goyri (403) con una especialidad en moda que cursó en Barcelona, en 2008
fue ganador de elle méxico diseña, casi diez años en que ha conformado calidad,
diseño, estética y concepto en siluetas y materiales ultrafemeninos con una elegancia
conservadora. tiene estudio en emerson 251, Polanco.
Sandra Weil (4o7) Se especializó en Moda y Alta Costura en Barcelona. Sandra Weil
couture se funda en méxico el año 2008 con la visión de crear atuendos de la más alta
calidad, únicos y atemporales. Hace una línea de ready to wear, otra de alta gama y
además novias. tiene showroom en Polanco en emilio castelar 185.
388 389
Alicia melodiosa... fue el primer nombre con el que Josa Silva y Giovanni Estrada
pretendían inaugurar una marca de super lujo para el consumidor mexicano más
exclusivo. No lo lograron. Pero al final hicieron Trista, que en 2017 cumple 10 años...
Josa provenía de Ingeniería Industrial, nació el 5 de abril de 1979. Y Giovanni había pasado
por arquitectura y nació el 27 de marzo de 1978. se conocieron en Casa de Francia en un
momento en que coincidían en ese pequeño mundo Alejandra Quesada o Temores.
la marca fue la ganadora de Who’s Next de Vogue en 2015. ya para ese entonces estaba
articulado un lenguaje de sofisticación que identifica la creación Trista. desde sus primeras
colecciones en con títulos como ‘el perro de Pavlov’ o buscando inspiración en la obra del
fotógrafo ciego evgen Bavcar, caminaban por otro sendero.
de alicia... a trista, a Simple by Trista. es el esquema de cómo una marca encuentra mercado
primero intentando crear nichos de super lujo, para luego ir bajandolos
a una creación más aterrizada a la realidad de nuestro entorno.
Giovanni cuenta que ‘...en un libro de Fernando Pessoa me brincó la palabra ‘Triste’.
volteo a ver a Josa y le digo ‘Trista’. Pum! Nos hizo click en dos segundos.
Entendíamos que era una palabra que tenía una personalidad clara, sofisticada ’
alicia melodiosa
en el momento de crear de ropa y ambiente, en un proceso de diseño integral.
aludiendo a eso, en su x aniversario presentaron una exposición curada por
Ana Elena Mallet (381) con el título: Trista diez años de contar historias.
y las teje entre ojales, en 2012 Josa hizo felizmente equipo con Natalia Ferriz para crear Children of our to n.
Que cuenta a través de las colecciones las historias de diferentes barrios de Mx. y a la vez
con corbata
Para que algo dure tiene que transformarse y ese es el secreto de Trista
no ser una sola solución sino muchas, cobijadas dentro del mismo sello.
Diversificándose como con Trista Hommes que existe desde el 2o15
“Construimos
siluetas acintura-
das, grandes colas y
vestidos sueltos con
bolsillos amplios,
inspirados en el
marco histórico del
Porfiriato”.
TR BU
–Giovanni Estrada y
José Alfredo Silva
LA NUEVA
harper’s bazaar en español / mayo 2014 / año 35 no. 05 / cortesía de harper’s bazaar en español
Look completo,
Trista.
394 395
AL E J A N D R O
YAKAMPOT CARLÍN
“Es una mezcla
“La intención
del pueblo donde
fue volver a
nacieron mis
nuestro centro
papás y las siluetas
para redescubrir
tradicionales de los
quiénes somos y
Altos de Chiapas,
encontrar nuestro
como si la tela se
brillo interno”.
enrollara en
el recuerdo”.
–Francisco Cancino
396 397
Tristán e Isolda comenzó en 2016 cuando, tanto desde Trista como desde Yakampot se
dieron cuenta que les llegaban encargos de vestidos de novia que tenían que cumplir
cada uno por su lado. al unirse pudieron tener la infraestructura necesaria para
lanzar dos colecciones y entender a las ‘prometidas’.
josa silva + francisco cancino / tristán e isolda / primera colección / 2o16 / sketch de luis roberto orozco
lo que busca la marca es poder traer a la realidad, el sueño del rito, la expectativa
de la ceremonia: ‘el vestido de novia, por lo tanto, resulta apasionante. el diseño de
éste traduce todo un sueño, mezcla del pasado y el porvenir. Para nosotros deviene
emocionante y es en verdad un reto poder interpretar esos sueños en una prenda que
formará parte de uno de los eventos más importantes en la vida de una persona,”
-comentan los diseñadores.
son territorios enteros en el diseño de moda, tanto las novias como los vestidos
que marcan los ritos de paso: quinceañeras, graduación, presentaciones.
el reto es poder remontar los lugares comunes y poder hacer algo con esas categorías
entendidas como retos de diseño. en esa misma problemática cae la ropa para niños.
en 2012 había una marca encantadora de ropa para los pequeñines: Arroz con leche.
cuando cumplió diez años en 2o12, la mejor manera de celebrarlo era escalarla.
cancino comenta: -’Nuestra ropa está hecha en comunión con artesanas mexicanas
en distintas partes del país. re-editamos patrones indígenas para llevarlos a la
moda actual. la mayoría de nuestros materiales están elaborados a mano y además
preferimos que en gran medida estén hechos en méxico. la mujer yakampot es
multicultural, puedo imaginarla en coyoacán pero también viajando en París. tenemos
todo en méxico, es muy importante poner el nombre de nuestro país en alto.
Look completo,
Mancandy.
400 401
CYNTHIA KRIS G OY R I
BÜTTENK L E P P E R
“La Flor de Luna florece por las
“Para mí, la moda es noches mostrando su máximo
experimentación a esplendor y elegancia”.
través de la libertad y
el riesgo”.
402 403
ALFREDO
MARTÍNE Z
JU L I A Y R E N ATA
Look completo,
Look completo, Julia y Renata.
Alfredo Martínez.
404 405
AL E X I A UL I B A R R I SA N D R A WE I L
Top y pantalón,
Top y vestido, Sandra Weil.
Alexia Ulibarri. Zapatos,
Zapatos, Louis Vuitton. Alfredo Martínez.
406 407
alexia ulibarri / leonora /primavera verano / 2o17
408
409
Ese es el signo de los tiempos, y la moda en Mx en 2o17 aún está en transición se puede
escoger de entre dos caminos: si se pone tienda/sho room -con una renta asesina- o
de plano en vez de estar con los ladrillos se escogen las computadoras (clics & brics).
pay’s / poncho / 2o16 / foto: donovan quiroz / brad de la serie pay’s x y - not / 2o16
Una de las propuestas a seguir es la de Andrés Catalina y Vil Vegas en la marca
Pay’s desde el 2o15. tejido de punto con dibujos complicados y de hoy. en un principio
pudo ser la ropa ideal para utilizar en un festival musical o en una fiesta trendy. Pero
que gracias a su extraordinario manejo de redes les llevó a ser favorito entre jóvenes
universitarios de cualquier nivel . Una marca inteligente que atiende un nicho de
diseño que está ahí: el de jóvenes urbanos que necesitan prendas más de vanguardia,
más divertidas. territorio inexplorado donde en todo este tiempo sólo había puesto su
bandera Malafacha.
entendiendo el comercio electrónico se pueden hacer propuestas como ésta, sin gastar
en el espejismo inútil de la tienda en Polanco. y llegando a los 32 estados del país de
manera inmediata. Pay’s es el ejemplo del mundo de la moda que está por venir en méxico.
Pero no son los únicos....
410
411
los límites de lo poco que
nos permitimos explorar en
nuestro medio de moda ultra
Así como tony DelFino, conservador.
medallón / trista homme / primavera verano 16 / umbanda * crom 13 / foto khristio / ropa @nvdd4u @marikavera / dude @shaunross
es una sorpresa competitiva, Además organizan fiestas /
tal vez la marca de moda mas hacen conciertos / y se avientan
‘desconocida’ sea MerCaDoraMa a traer a quién sea de todo el
de ahMeD Bautista. mundo utilizando el super poder
Hacen ropa oficial de del internet (como la portada con el
los cantantes y las bandas. modelo Shaun Ross o la vez de Formichetti)
(Pero en gran escala). Tienen tienda / promueven marcas de moda/
Para vender todo eso crearon -en el MBFW16, presentaron un colectivo de creadores:
kiChink!. Un día que buscaban Myq (362-366), apparelk, rtD -reaDy to Die- (419), rCl,
algo que hablara positivamante BMC (BlaCk Market Cult) y Maniphest que son dos marcas de Gdl.
de Mx, Ahmed y anuar layón
inventaron la bomber jacket de En sus páginas desfilan desde Marika vera (414) -marca de lencería
‘MéxiCo is the shit’(427). de autor / ManCanDy / no naMe stuDio de jonathan Morales /
El éxito que siguió demuestra a la postura de vanguardia de los autodidactas víCtor Barragán
que el futuro de la moda en en ytiniFninFinity (416) y giuseppe ayanegui en ayaneguiBranD. El
Mx no pasa por los vestidos primero con 25 años y el segundo nacido el 24/12/94 con 23 años.
de noche, sino por la línea:
reDes soCiales + e-CoMMerCe El escape del laberinto de la soledad del siglo xxi para la moda
+ proDuCto DeseaBle + mexicana pasa por la búsqueda de la vanguardia de pay’s y CroM. Pasa
inFluenCers + proDuCCión en por entender el comercio electrónico como hacen CoMpra MoDa
esCala. naCional, MerCaDoraMa y MexiCouture. Pasa por la forma en la que
(pero eso no lo enseñan en las la plataforma de moda MBFW se adapta a nuevos escenarios. Pero
escuelas de moda, URGE que exige que para un México cada vez más diverso, nuestra moda responda
dejemos de lado el que sean a esas diferencias con productos para cientos de nichos de mercado.
‘carreras femeninas’ -donde Iniciativas como DMx32 buscan llevar moda a muchos territorios.
sólo enseñan manualidades Ya no podemos perder más el tiempo, necesitamos negocios de moda
cursis-y que se conviertan en que duren más de diez años, que sobrevivan a sus creadores y que
carreras de mercadotecnia y identifiquen a Mx en el mundo. Empecemos por que:
diseño de a deveras). ¡Total, los 120 millones de mexicanos nos vestimos diario!
Y debemos usar e impulsar nuestra moda nacional. o.Ob
Si alguien ha puesto el ejemplo
de cómo hacer nuevos caminos, Octavio Paz dijo: ‘Una sociedad se define no sólo por su actitud ante el
esos son axel esCalante y futuro sino frente al pasado: sus recuerdos no son menos relevantes que
oMarov aguilar. Fundaron sus proyectos. Aunque los mexicanos estamos preocupados -mejor dicho:
CroM, una revista sin textos, obsesionados- por nuestro pasado, no tenemos una idea clara de lo que
ellos mismos la definen como hemos sido. Y lo que es más grave: no queremos tenerla. Vivimos entre el
una ‘red social impresa’. Pero mito y la negación, deificamos ciertos periodos, olvidamos a otros...
no sólo es un magazine, es una
plataforma en donde fotógrafos, Para nosotros que amamos a México a través de su diseño y de su
diseñadores y marcas se puedan moda, usemos los recuerdos de Mextilo -y no olvidemos- para poder
arriesgar un poquito ampliando vivir en un futuro mejor. :D <3 xxxooo
412
CROP TOP: @SIGNATURE BYMARIKAVERA
TROUSERS: @MARIKAVERA
JACLET: @NVDD4U
THANKS FOR SUPPORTING:
@RAFAELMICHA & @GRUPOHABITA
@KHRISTIO <3
TOP: @AYANEGUIBRAND
TROUSERS: @MANCANDY
OUTWEAR: @NVDD4U
CHOCKER: @MARIKAVERA
@KHRISTIO
JACKET: @ARTUROTLAQUE
PHOTO: @ALBERTO.HIDALGO
pedro meyer / MBFW en pose FotograFía De MoDa MéxiCo hoy / foto museo 4 caminos / 2016
2o12 -2o15 google + Fashion Anna Fusoni
Mike Alva
+ seMana De la MoDa y salón Boutique eran ferias industriales, textileras, con pasarelas.
+ Primera Visión tenía concurso/pasarelas/muestra de 8 diseñadores usando textiles de los fabricantes.
+ Días De MoDa: un grupo de diseñadores haciendo pasarelas con el calendario mundial de desfiles.
Una agencia, KTR les dice: nosotros organizamos, ustedes diseñen.
+ José Andrés Patiño se separa de KTR y establece el Fashion Week, con Fusoni como directora de moda.
+ DFashion hecho por Colours.
+ MerCeDes Benz hace su plataforma, pero el nombre Fashion Week era ® de Patiño;
contratan a Manuel Vera que está al frente sólo 4 temporadas y se va.
+ Vera inventa iDM y Colours toma MBFW.
+ Demasiadas plataformas, Marcos Cherem al frente de la Canaive los exhorta a ‘resumirse’.
+ Extintas, quebradas o fusionadas, al final sólo queda MBFW, cumpliendo 10 años en 2o16, con formato
multi-sedes y cerrando en el marco de pose la exposiCión De FotograFía De MoDa Mx hoy, en el FM4C.
+ nook inaugura el formato multi-sede. Johann Mergenthaler se vuelve director creativo de MBFW
+ DMx32 busca ser una plataforma nómada para crear cultura de la moda en los 32 estados del país
+ google + Fashion, visionaria, es la premonición de lo que se convertirán las pasarelas en el futuro.
Sin embargo quería escribirte esto desde semanas atrás, pero supuse que estabas muy ocupada con lo
del «Fashion Week» y todo ese ajetreo, así que preferí esperar.
Creo que ambos sabemos que lo nuestro no va bien, no quiero sonar como un psicópata que en los
últimos años te ha estado siguiendo a todos lados, pero sí. No sé, creo que últimamente peleamos
mucho y la verdad es que cada vez te entiendo menos. Nos hemos alejado demasiado y eso no es un
buen síntoma.
Sé que en este tipo de situaciones no es bueno recordar, pero a veces me resulta imposible olvidar la
cantidad de cosas buenas que pasamos juntos y el cómo de alguna manera todo se fue al carajo.
Aunque no lo creas, nos conocimos cuando yo aún estaba en la universidad y aunque desde años atrás
fantaseaba contigo viendo «FTV», mi cabeza y corazón estaban en otro lado y la verdad es que de no
ser por ese par de cursos de textiles y accesorios nunca te hubiera conocido.
422 423
Aún recuerdo la primera vez que estuvimos juntos en una pasarela, «Huichol Galáctico Pop» de Sergio Gracias a esto —el trabajo— pude estar en un lugar que disfruto mucho, uno en el que podía hablar de
Alcalá, ¿Neta? «Huichol Galáctico Pop» bueno, yo sólo intentaba saber qué estaba pasando, pero ti y además me pagaban, muy poco pero bueno, eso no es tu culpa, es culpa del PRI. Ahí entendí que
realmente no entendía; me sudaban las manos, me intrigaba ver a la gente moviendo la cabeza como en tu caso, el dinero no tiene nada ver con el talento, pero también que por más ganas que se tengan,
en el tenis, — aunque nunca he ido al tenis— y para poder sacar conclusiones optaba por ver a los si no hay talento no hay nada, que no solo se trata de ser raro y exagerar, colgarse cosas en el cuerpo y
que según yo, sabían más; hasta ese momento todo era una idealización primeriza y aunque era Sergio «desfilar»— como Sergio Alcalá — se trata de ser diferente de verdad, se trata de pensarte, de leerte,
Alcalá, todo estaba bien, fotos, modelos, música, prendas, olores, todo. y de reflexionar el ¿Cómo? y el ¿Por qué? eres tan importante para tanta gente, se trataba de darse
cuenta de cómo eras capaz de mover al mundo y a mi corazón.
Justo ahí me di cuenta de que aunque no te Honestamente, no se qué pasó, no quiero culparte de todo, una relación es de dos— en la mayoría
de los casos— y yo no soy perfecto, pero estoy seguro de que esta vez no fueron mis celos, ni mi
conocía, ni entendía muy bien y tú no tenías inmadurez lo que echó todo a perder, me niego a pensar que todo se acabó, pero ya lo dijo José José en
idea de quién era, yo quería estar contigo. una de sus mejores canciones, «porque nada es para siempre y hasta la belleza cansa, ¡el amor acaba!»,
así que, o soy un cobarde y no te lo puedo decir o tu belleza me cansó.
Siempre me he considerado un tipo con suerte y gracias a ti, mi vida y mi carrera cambiaron y de pronto sin Voy a optar por la segunda — porque llevo meses sin salir con nadie y eso más que cobarde, me hace un
pensarlo estábamos viviendo juntos, — en mi cabeza te robé a caballo como en los viejos tiempos — estaba perdedor y no quiero dejarte esa impresión de mí— me cansé de todo, me cansé de los que sólo te ven
convencido de que nunca estuvimos tan lejos y que podríamos funcionar como complemento perfecto. como un mal negocio, me cansé de la gente «importante» de la ciudad que sólo quiere ir a tus fiestas,
me cansé de los «empresarios de la moda» que no le pagan a sus proveedores y que piden «copiar» los
Me gustaba presumirte, hablar con la gente de ti, de cómo yo y lo poco o mucho que sabía podían diseños de otras partes del mundo a sus diseñadores in house, me cansé de los «bloggers» con 3 meses
volverte alguien mejor, quería que ambos creciéramos, que tuviéramos hijos y que Mercedes Benz de vida que solo quieren el registro para entrar a una plataforma que apoya a la «escena local» pero que
nos regalara una camioneta, me importabas tanto que dediqué meses enteros a especializarme en no le paga a sus fotógrafos y/o usa una imagen de campaña comprada en un banco de imágenes por 3
un futuro juntos, fui al gimnasio un par de veces y me puse a dieta casi por dos semanas seguidas, dólares. Me cansé de las relaciones públicas, me cansé de las invitaciones y boletos de avión pagados
todo por que quería explicarle a la gente lo increíble que eras. Para ese punto y sin darme cuenta para que la gente hable bien de ti sin merecerlo de verdad.
estaba enamorado de ti.
Me cansé de los directivos de escuelas que no soportan las críticas, porque son vistas como un algo
Cambié de ciudad pensando en que aquí en Guadalajara «Capital de la Moda» todo sería mejor, estaba innecesario y muy posiblemente como un detonador de «bajas» escolares y si eso pasa, ¿Quién paga?
más ilusionado contigo que nunca, dejé a mi familia y amigos pensando que en esta nueva ciudad ¿Dónde esta el negocio? ¿Cómo pueden ir ellos a Nueva York y besarse con tus primas si no es de esta
tendríamos muchas cosas por hacer. El espacio y la gente parecían quedarnos muy bien, parecía que forma? Me cansé de directivos de escuela sin visión, preocupados por como quitarle a todos, al alumno,
aquí sí nos tomarían en serio. No lo voy a negar, ha sido en Guadalajara en donde he pasado los mejores al maestro, a los administrativos, ¿Para qué? para comprar camionetas de la Mercedes Benz. Me cansé
días contigo, pero también los peores. de directivos de escuelas que no hablan de diseño, porque no tienen ni puta idea — perdón mamá
— de lo que significa la palabra en realidad, pero me cansé también de tus alumnos, esos que dicen
Fui a Nueva York esperando conocer el resto de ti, sin duda uno de los viajes de mi vida; aprendí estar muy enamorados de ti, que les apasiona todo — menos coser — que sueñan con ser Lagerfeld,
muchísimo, pude verte con otros ojos, no se trataba de juzgarte o compararte, sino de entenderte. Ford o Gaultier pero no tienen idea de quiénes son Giovanni Estrada o Francisco Saldaña y a quienes
Quería que aprendieras mucho y te sintieras orgullosa de lo que eras. Mi corazón seguía contigo, aunque seguramente les dio hueva googlear Sergio Alcalá un par de minutos atrás, me cansé de sus disfraces.
honestamente una de tus primas en Soho me gustó mucho y nos dimos unos besos sin pensarlo; ya
sabes, cosas que los hombres hacemos, estábamos borrachos, no cuenta, para mí seguías siendo la Me cansé de que nunca nadie tenga presupuesto, de que todo sea intercambiable y de que lo poco que
persona, cosa o lo que seas más importante de mi vida. genera flujo de efectivo, esté mal hecho o sea una copia, la calidad nunca va a cambiar si nadie invierte,
pero, ¿Cómo inviertes si nadie compra? y para qué comprar si siempre hay algo más barato y mejor en
Zara o HM y de pronto esta fórmula se repite al infinito.
Sí, lo sé, perdí la cabeza, estabas en todos lados, en la calle, en la televisión, en mis pláticas,
en mis libros, en otras mujeres que me interesaban, en mis amigos, en todos mis bookmarks No sé si estoy exagerando, pero creo que alguien tiene que tomar una decisión y al parecer tendré qué
de internet, en mis revistas, en mi trabajo y quizá fue ahí donde empezaron los problemas, ser yo porque — como siempre — tú nunca hablas, y voy a citar a «Anna Fusoni» porque se me da la gana:
no por nada dicen que uno no debe de juntar los negocios con el placer y yo lo hice. «La moda padece del fenómeno avestruz: cree que con esconder la cabeza se
resuelven todos los problemas. Hay que enfrentar, aceptar y corregir.»
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425
Y eso voy a hacer, aceptar que esto no va bien, no quiero que nos lastimemos más y tampoco me niego a
que de vez en cuando podamos tener algo de sexo ocasional con alguna de las colecciones de Malafacha
o Trista, — incluso con una de Stres— pero por ahora creo que debemos darnos un tiempo, no te quiero
ofender pero creo que te está bajando indefinidamente y yo así no puedo.
Tal vez podamos ser amigos, pero eso no significa que podamos salir solos a ningún lado, sé que no parece
pero estoy muy enojado con esto, me parece injusto cómo te has comportado conmigo estos últimos años
y de Elle México Diseña no quiero ni hablar, desde que sales en un «reality» perdí toda la esperanza de
eduardo guijosa / mexico is the shit / anuar layón ahmed bautista / 2o17 * 428. khristio / bárbara sánchez kane / 2o17
recuperarte.
En fin, te voy a borrar de Facebook y dejar de seguir en Twitter, pero voy a dejar tu número sólo para
«emergencias» uno nunca sabe cuando cosas como «Lobo con piel de oveja» me pueden regresar las ganas
de aventarte a mi cama y hacerte el amor.
De verdad, espero que me entiendas, seas feliz, pero sobre todo, madurez.
like
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Nota Prado: para 2017 ‘lobo con piel de oveja’ marca jaliscience
por la que se hubieran echado un free... había muerto hacía un buen :(
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esta hoja
es para que tú
sumes tu nombre
a la historia de
la moda mexicana
tu nombre______________________
que hiciste______________________
en que año______________________
429
¡carajo!!!!
la historia
de la moda
no puede
pedro meyer / MBFW en pose FotograFía De MoDa MéxiCo hoy / foto museo 4 caminos / 2016
ser nomás
un montón
de !!!vestidos
de noche!!!!!!
430 431
patronos
caminando por el valle de la sombra de
la muerte, ustedes confiaron en estas
Oh Eternidad! locuras... enseñándome el poder que tiene
Ante ti nos presentamos, somos ser maestro y dándome el chance de hacer
!gracias¡
Andonella y Gustavo Prado esta obra, necesaria para México
¿Nos reconoces?
!no nos juzguez con dureza!
sólo somos un eslabón
en la cadena que une a
los que fueron
y los que vendrán
deja que mextilo hable
por nosotros cuando ya no estemos
la historia de la moda en México
se seguirá escribiendo
432 433
DISEÑANDO MÉXICO 32 UNIVERSIDAD Irma Keever Linda Plata Marisa Olguín Minerva Garnica Sarahí Rueda García
Jair Montañez Lorena Macías Preciat Miros Lop Sofía Fernández
DMX32 JANNETTE KLEIN Cervantes Lorena Sánchez Ferrer Marko Anaya Garfias Nalleli Cámara Payró
Javier Silva LOURDES ALMEIDA Martha Paola Nancy Estela Stephanie Blanco
Je M’appelle Pam Lucero Hernández María Elena Chan Natalia Andrade Abraján
Jessica Flores Valadez María Fernanda Natalia Silva Stephanie Sirrs
Jimena Gar Gon Ve Lucía Galguera Armenta Daza Nayely Gunther Susana Santoyo
JOHANN Lucía Larrañaga María Fernanda Olga Caín TAMARA FAINSTEIN
MERGENTHALER LUISA RESTREPO Quijano Martínez Osam García Tania GaGo
Jonathan Esaú Luna Luis Oliver María Fernanda Oscar Trejo TANYA MELÉNDEZ
MARUJA NORTON RM FOTO THOUGHTS BY JC ENRIQUE RODRÍGUEZ RAMÍREZ ROYAL DALIA Garcia Ma. de Lourdes Rodríguez Torres Alcantara Tere Metta
José Manuel Prendes Verónica Morales María Ximena Pablo Barjau Thalía Campos
Nicoli Muñoz Hernández Golderg Paco a Go-gó Deschamps
DANIEL DÍAZ ROSAS / KAREN GARCÍA PELÁEZ / KARLA DOMÍNGUEZ Judith Almazán Macario Prado Maura Ireri Paloma Favela Vanessa Navas
MARÍA ISABEL RODRÍGUEZ / MARÍA VIDEL ZEITEN / T A M MY FAINSTEIN CÍTRICO Ofelia Prado MAURO GARFIAS Paulette Zuñiga Lebrija
Karina García Majo Bayo Max Granillo Paulina López Varenka Ruiz
Karin Barbarita Marcela Torre Mayra Grisel Paulina Macías Verónica Peralta
Abril Márquez + Alejandra Ramírez + Alejandro Pérez + Carlos Emiliano Durán Díaz + Enrique Karla Gúzman Marc Solovjova Rodríguez PEDRO MEYER Yvonne Segura
Rodríguez Ramírez + Jorge Bautista + Juan Pedro Nuñez + Luis Alberto Alvarado + Omar Portilla Karla Reyes Gómez Margot Kalach Mayra Mendoza Raúl Flores Ramírez Armand + ATELIER
Kenia Gutiérrez Mariana Alcocer Melania Chavarría Ricardo Rodríguez ARMAND
Larisa Tinajero Mariana Bocanegra Melissa Fuentes Barraza Zoila Muntane
Alexandra Gee Ere Toxqui Ilse Swain Marla Volta Néstor Chavarria
Laura Sánchez Hernández Miguel Angel Sadie Trigueros Juárez
Cala María Padilla Gabrielle Venguer Maribel Iglesias María Melania Vico Rodríguez
Leo G. Modotti Mariana Quintana Gómez Vargas SALVADOR Zulema Moreno
Viviana Betancur Nuño Leslie Glz. Mariela Martínez S Miguel Arsuaga HERNÁNDEZ
434 435
translaishions 2 of the big retail stores and also presenting
a perspective of the national talent in
clothes, the designers, the photographers
and the scenarios. vogue MexiCo was
a social chronique, a magazine with
extensive articles in depth and a promoter
stylism, in Miami for mexican tv stars.
As well as his ventures like a restaurant
the ‘Sueño Guajiro’.
roBerto villarreal begins in his native
Monterrey - he was born in 1966 - and
becomes a promise of an avant-garde
unique in our country. An organization
dedicated to promote an infinite number
of customers from all over the country of
what is produced in fashion, working as a
club and like its 700 similar ones existing
in the American union, offers an excellent
page 311 cont. Dressed in all that fashion, the posh ones pioneering research papers necessary to of MexiCan Fashion. and youthful design. Making the image service on what the Boutiques and
went to discotheques like the ‘MagiC create a modern fashion history. (332). for groups like Magneto, Mercury and shops in the city and province demand.
(Amieiro) Surprisingly in 2017 CirCus’, but we, the alternative ones And iván aguirre, who surprisingly Later on héCtor De anDa made a OV7, later disappearing of public view.
the brand still enjoys a healthy presence were hanging in places like the ‘tutti studied fashion to never dedicate his successful jump to the art world with an For Ms. Fusoni there are, among fashion
in networks and online sales, smtg not so Frutti’ and the legendary ‘9’, the place labor to garments and instead become excellent plastic production and in 2010 At the end of the decade Fusoni herself makers, three categories:
very common, as Mexican brands do not of henri DonnaDieu. In 2014, guillerMo one of the most talented, interesting he married jesús iBarra from the successful tells us how, for ONC - oFiCina De First, innovators, who are responsible
tend to be long lasting. osorno published ‘tengo que Morir and versatile fashion photographers in iBarra + BertholDo duo. CoMpras naCionales -she organized a fair for breaking with the canons of
toDas las noChes’- Each night I have to Mexico and in the world. in which the confectioners offered their established fashion and rather by
If in the ‘70’s Max CleMente was the die- the history of the ‘9’ with clues and It is worth mentioning that the oMni products for boutiqueras -people owning intuition and aesthetic sense, launch
photographer, the one defining fashion anecdotes about the fashion scene then. The issue of fashion education in Mexico aWarD created by viCtor juárez was the boutiques throughout the country-, and new proposals usually in accordance
image in the next two decades was: has yet to be consolidated at country national award that from 1983 to 1995, the then suddenly one day the buyers no longer with what will be designated as fashion
Carlos soMonte. We all Mexicans, have On September 19, 1985 at 7:14 am a level, if the textile and fashion industry reference in the recognition of the best of arrived: there were new competitors, zeitgeist.
referents to his images since he is the devastating earthquake struck Mexico are among the first generators of wealth fashion professionals in Mexico. from the Chinese to the new Zara type
creator of music videos of Fobia, Café City: an estimated 800 workshops in the country, then an indicator of concept, competing with low prices and tWo, the Creators, who at first were
Tacuba, La Maldita Vecindad. Images of collapsed, most of them clandestine, growth for fashion in Mx, will be when From 1986 to 1990 the magazine vertigo large scale production. So, hundreds of innovative but now have a solidity
Sasha, Luis Miguel are also his work. The where thousands of women worked public universities, set design careers in of the multifaceted Manuel zavala was mexican confectioners went bankrupt. and consistency that keep them in the
cross-process with its peculiar color, and without any social benefits . A horrible fashion, without the prejudice that they the Mexican equivalent to British avant- limelight with a defined style and always
his photos of the subcultures of the headline says: ‘No one came out alive from are superficial. garde magazines such as i-D, the FaCe The fashion houses remaining in the bringing something new. For Anna
time like the brave punks (311). And the topeka brand’.’ More than 40,000 and Blitz, which surprisingly appear every zona rosa, began moving to Masaryk, Fusoni these are the most important.
the collaboration with the avangarde seamstresses were left without work and month in Mx. In the pages of vertigo, the clothing industry in crisis will give
designer Dhyan Pritamo and the model no right to any compensation. In one side you could see the avant-garde fashion way to the idea of the small-scale anD lastly the Designers, who are
Analía Solomonoff (313).Showing he the human tragedy of the seamstresses, proposals, from aMieiro to lario, to even designer-author that will be the way of people with a long career and a prestige
knew the the world scene and had but the final blow to garment industry those of the northern regions like zuleMa the following decades. already firmly established but do not
the desire to expand mexican fashion was done when soon after the market olivares. (318-325) necessarily contribute with nothing new
photography since. was opened to Chinese competition, page 317 to fashion but, rather, are dedicated
first, and fast-fashion, soon after. In the 70’s fashion occupied at full a father to follow the currents and trends to
called piero DeMiChelis and his brand maintain their place and prestige.
Three days after the earthquake, When in September 2014, vogue arBiter. At his sudden death, his sons
everything was ready to inaugurate the magazine celebrated 15 years of existence keko DeMiChelis and Carlo DeMiChelis Of course, the capacity for recreation in
‘jannette klein’ school, that had to be in Mx as a 21st century phenomenon, it take the reins of the business. fashion is as important as another type of
postponed in order of the magnitude was forgotten that it had already the proposal, since it allows us, invariably,
page 314 of the tragedy. With only 24 students, experience of a past life in the xxth century. keko was in charge of the sports brand Fila, to know the possibilities of a trend.
jannette anD her husBanD xavier reyes risk and Carlo started selling in the salón When asked about the new talent
everything to open at that difficult time. An important newspaper of the time Del palaCio. In 2004 he established his that the fashion world currently has
On television ‘Cuna de lobos’ was ‘noveDaDes’ who bought a license own house under his name specialized in in Mexico, she told us that for her,
the soap opera, and the night talk show The founding of a fashion career with to produce the magazine vogue MexiCo women’s clothing and a year later another the people who are doing the most
‘Mala Noche No’ are on top of all a degree was decisive to professionalize (324) from its offices in Balderas Street. shop, now to fulfill man’s needs. page 320 important and interesting things are:
ratings. The young crowds dress with the idea of design in Mexico. Besides General editor noé aguDo compiled Alfonso Peregrina, Ramón Herrera,
Mexican brands like ‘MoDeratto’ sold being the pioneer school, since 2016 a group of first line writers: Carlos page 318 Liz Kena, Javier Lario, Miguel Angel
in their own stores at malls with musician was nominated in the ranking of top Monsivaís, alBerto ruy sánChez, luis people / anna Fusoni. Soriano and Miguel Ángel García.
like avant-garde clothing. There was a 100 Fashion sChools in the world. Carlos eMeriCh, luis guillerMo piazza, Then in the eighties the ‘soundtrack’ was Fashion promoter. By Manuel Zavala
brand of velvet fabric called jB Martin, Distinction only two fashion universities Margo glantz ... the ‘who is who’ of the ‘The cure’ and with the same hairdo and FaCsiMilar Magazine .vertigo Magazine 1987 Anna Fusoni is responsible for the
which suddenly had an overproduction in .Mx get: jannette klein and la iBero. Mexican intelligentsia, generating high looks dance to the ‘Caifanes’. The place organization of Salon Boutique and
of material and they have the idea to quality texts . to be was the ‘9’. You read Alaska’s If someone asked me who is Primera Visión, important events of
throw a line of jeans made with colored To achieve that, three decades were -the singer- writing in vertigo. the perfect promoter of young fashion fashion in Mexico, since in those places
velvets: red, yellow, orange, green. necessary and also a percentage of To make fashion contents, a former in Mexico, who is the one who is in is where new talents are revealed.
With such success they open stores creators who achieved success in fashion male model conqueror of the European In 1986 Fusoni, founds the MoDapreMio, contact with the fashion world in the
under the brand ‘eDoarDos CaliFornia’. business like: heCtor terrones, sarah catwalks, héCtor De anDa, was now contest and platform to give access to NY, who has worked with craft and
Bustani, MalaFaCha and FranCisCo in charge of generating the shootings, the young designers. clarity in journalism, maintaining her
The Mexican shoes ‘DoMit’ dominated CanCino of the yakaMpot brand, all of editorials and promotionals, and would section named anotaCiones De aries,
the youth market with the spaghetti them students of the jk university. remain in the position from 1980 to 1994, FaBián vergara de Jalisco, born in 1958, who is the Promoter in search of the true
soles. The ‘Furor proDuCts’, brand of winning three oMni aWarDs for being the presented his first collection in 1986, and talents, I would answer without a doubt:
the Canedo brothers landed in a mexican Two other JK graduated, Desireé Best Fashion eDitor. Spreading the national only ten years later he declares himself anna Fusoni, who along with Armando
adaptation of the Italian FioruCCi. navarro the fashion expert with design, filling the pages as much of clothes tired of design and goes to the world of Zenteno manages O.N.C. Office that is
436 437
page 326 Of this branch hangs: the artists who page 332- 333 June 21, 1955. He worked for beauty page 334 -337 izet & hazel Baeza
only create to participate in contests / contests and the world of show biz.
those that make art only because ‘subject César FranCo, born in DF, on 6 /1o/1948
matter’ / and surprisingly for us: MexiCan In the 90’s she studied fashion in the and who sadly died on 15/12/2o1o. He el liBro De la MoDa MexiCana Hazel Baeza studied fashion design in
neo - MexiCanisM art inFluenCe ö.Ö instituto superior De Diseño y MoDa
jannette klein, and even when she
was one of the initiators of the topeka
brand, which had a great success in the
Desirée navarro 2002 FaCsiMilar Book
Mexico. She settled in Milan x 4 years
where she get a Master in design in
was the name of the artistic movement
‘par excellence’ in 1980’s Mexico. If we apply it to contemporary fashion presented some runways and was at the 70’s. (294) He came to have 4 stores ernesto hernánDez DoMus aCaDeMy obtaining honorable
design, it marks very well those three helm of her boutique CyBele presenting with his name, & he is remembered for mention. Since 1997, she has been
By the time of Don Porfirio a dangers: you can participate in contests international brands, she was captured by been in charge of the MexiCan institute He studied fashion design at the based in Zurich, Switzerland, where
popular expression had been forbidden: but it should not be the your only reason the media, the fashion critique and social oF Fashion.
instituto superior De Diseño y MoDa she created the espaCio aura, her
the murals in the pulquerías. Then, at to create / totally ineffective are those commentary. Desirée navarro writes for jannette klein in MexiCo City. headquarters to project and promote
the triumph of Revolution, in the new art collections + lost in the narrative + being newspapers like Excélsior, Universal and The northern, the ‘regios’ like MarCelo Subsequently, he taught there various the collection to various cities around
identity construction with Vasconcelos, neither practical nor attractive, + not Reforma. But also she was on television for ríos and raMón guerrero. Then the subjects. His professional experience the world. She speaks five languages.
Best, Diego Rivera & Co., being able following trends + in which only the ‘subject Azteca Tv, Televisa, Cosmopolitan tv, etc. disciples of Manuel MénDez: riCarDo began working for the Mexican Izet Baeza studied at the universiDaD
to paint murals within National Palace, matters’ / and particularly the necessity reyes and BlanCa estela sánChez. designer héCtor terrones. In 1996, iBeroaMeriCana in Mexico, at Domus
was a declaration of the return to the to move away from the folklore loop to We must thank her because Reyes with fashion studies at jannette he worked in fashion coordination for Academy in Milan, as well as in
popular, the authentic expression of explore new incarnations of the identity. she has been a pioneer in the modern klein & saint Martins, sold his the newspaper reForMa, one of the Switzerland various courses related to
national soul and values. investigation of the history of Mexican collections in the ‘salón Del palaCio’ most important communication spaces experimentation and textile design.
Not in the 80’s but in 2017, one of the most fashion. Through several efforts: In the and then devoted himself to teaching at that time. The following year, he She has worked in domestic and foreign
At the triumph of their artistic vision interesting designers solving this equation year 2004, she publishes ‘la historia De la and academics. BlanCa estela had her joined the coordination team of Fashion industry (mainly Switzerland, Germany
Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros declared: is riCarDo seCo. Originally from Torreón, MoDa en MéxiCo’ - 40 years to its maximum estuDio De alta MoDa at the fancy international view, a national Student and Italy). Since 1998, she has been
there is no More route than ours. Coahuila, he started a business career and expression. -The history of the fashion in Mx Condesa neighborhood, and she made Fashion Congress. It was in mid-98 part of Aura’s textile production and
Until, a group of artists in the sixties then risked everything in search of fulfilling collections in all kinds of clothes from when he launched his first collection its promotion from Mexico. For Hazel
-the same ones declaring zona rosa- his vocation in fashion and presenting his Surprisingly, the format is in 2 Compact Discs, lingerie to evening dress. aimed at urban-cosmopolitan man. and Izet, Aura is the atmosphere that
said they had to abolish the ‘Curtain first collection in Mx. in 2002. Immediate narrated by herself. There is no any image. With the passage of time, he expanded surrounds and comes from a person or
oF nopal’ and make an art of Ruptura
classics such as the neW BalanCe sneakers In the booklet along with the discs there María rosario MenDoza, with the his lines into underwear, sports, casual thing. What we carry, how we live, how
-breakin’. In order to look abroad to seek covered with huiChol plots and drawings, are a series of timelines speaking of Mexico takasaMi brand a ‘Casa de moda and formal through small productions. we express ourselves is the atmosphere
better forms than the nationalists ones. catapult himself to be the only Mexican and the world context at the same time. mexicana’ from Guadalajara. When His working process is quite versatile, that each one projects, our Aura.
presenting at the Fashion Week in neW york she made the costumes for the pan- as it guides the service to its clientele Together with Aura have participated
That struggle, has been the Mexican art and attending events such as the gloBal At both times a count of brands and aMeriCan gaMes for Guadalajara 2011, from made-to-measure garments and in events around the world. They have
rhythm ever since. After the Ruptura, Fashion Capitals exhibition in the Fashion designers, as a social chronicle, narrated she won an eMMy aWarD for Best speCial is complemented by a ready-to-wear exhibited in galleries (Swiss Institute
came ‘the groups’ in the 70’s and then ‘neo- institute oF teChnology Fit in New in several lines from the political life event CostuMe. collection which in turn is divided Gallery, NYC, Heimatwerk), museums
MexiCanisM’ and finally everyone became York, along with Carla Fernandez in 2015. of Mexico, to those being the wealthy into a basic line and a much more (Bellerive Museum, Zurich; Carrillo
conceptual in Mexico... 30 years ago ... (yawn!) customers of brands and designers. Those same fashionable strokes innovative one. His brand appearances Gil Museum, México), shows (Fashion-
His collection ‘juntos together’ of Beginning in Chatillon and ending in the emphasizing ‘Mexicana’, is at stake in in specialized media positioned him Milano, Blickfang, Stuttgart, Talent
This art struggles make ripples in the surface 2017 in which the national symbols, the 1990’s. Only 15 years later, when CDs are what happened in the London 2012 as an avant-garde designer with a Münich, Swiss Expo 02, Biel, Festival del
of designs and fashion - although there is founding phrases of Benito Juárez, and the ended, and it is truly difficult finding Olympics, when people criticized the style that definitely inclines towards Centro Histórico México), artistic and
almost no research on it -. If the ‘Big three’ encounter of the colors and the blazons one fully functional, technological Mexican national team uniforms by the taste of a consumer with young design shows obtaining diverse prizes and
dazzled with their weight, other three of the United States and Mexico makes obsolescence makes the project its prey. arManDo MaFuD for being too folkloric. spirit, although individualistic in their recognitions in their home country and
Best- CovarruBias - el Chango an intelligent design exercise. His work But they were far more suited than the preferences. However, the essence of abroad.) Their creations are exported
opened the door to another notion demonstrates something we are forgetting: This compendium deepens in time, some hugo Boss uniforms in our delegation his creations follows the global trends successfully to Munich, Stuttgart,
of nationalism. And focusing on Mexican identity is also a melting pot. decades more, to tell the story of the for the 2016 Rio Olympics. Mafud had of fashion. As a designer he rethinks the Paris, Lyon, Provence, Milan, Bologna,
valDiosera - Chatillon - valDés peza, That can not be sheltered, isolated or pioneers Valdiosera, et al. Which had a great growth with his brand in the 90’s codes of men’s clothing. His constants: Rome, Padua, Brescia, Tokyo and
they spoke within a parallel line to art, walled but has to become something alive. not happened in her previous project: both in Mexico and internationally, the innovation of the traditional use Osaka to mention just a few sale points.
and in fashion, with the same problems ‘El libro de la moda mexicana’ of 2002. even appearing at a catwalk in the of the textiles and materials which Hazel Baeza was born on June 8 in
and the same identity construction. That same message is Mextilo’s theme: - The book of mexican fashion-. This a Louvre in Paris. Born on July 26, 1947, as he uses. And the revelation of black, Mexico City (1968). Izet Baeza was
let’s understand the past, to create neW recount from the sixties on, organized a celebration of his 36th year anniversary either subtle or radical, as a starting born on January 7, 1972 in Mexico City.
iDentities through fashion. : D in alphabetical order and containing of his creative pursues, he published FT: Eliane Ruishauser © FP IZET:
In 1946 an American artist aD reinharDt, point for the creation of a whole look.
jokingly, made didactic explanations celebrities related to fashion in the the book ‘Por siempre México’ in 2016, In 2001 his career reached an José Diego Gómez FP Hazel: Oliver
about what it was, and how to understand fields of: photography, styling, makeup, expressing his very Mexican style. important step: the presentation of Walkhoff ©
art. In “How to look at modern art in ...” modeling and of course fashion design. his collection at an international level
he says that the whole trunk of modern art at vanCouver international Fashion sarah Bustani
is based on Braque, Matisse and Picasso, Since it was published at the very Week. That same year he won the
with roots in Van Gogh and Gauguin. beginning of the xxist it became an Tactel ® 4a Dimension as the most Sarah Bustani has a degree in fashion
Then, one of its branches was divided in excellent account of the nineties, with renowned designer revelation for men. design. She studied at jannette klein
abstracts among them Mondrian, Léger fresh information and biographical Fashion Design sChool in Mexico
and even Duchamp. And another branch data in the presentations. In the book Ernesto Hernandez was born on City and at the Fashion Institute of
rotten and broken by the weight of a stands out many designers like: josé luis October 24, 1971 in León, Mexico. Technology in neW york City. She
bunch of clogs, was the social-surreal. aBarCa, couture designer originally FP: FPA FT: Edgardo Contreras. started in the field of clothing making
from Guerrero where he was born on costumes for theater, which to date
438 439
keeps her in a constant study of the designers of contemporary Mexican organized their own events without of Thalía, or the costumes of Verónica Both visual artists, theatrical artists At the time the museum director,
history and evolution of fashion, fashion. The women of society and the the current platforms. Invitations Castro. With branches in Zona Rosa and and writers, from Maris Bustamante Oswaldo Sanchez was hosting there,
knowledge that opened her the doors spectacle soon become the recipients were sent by snail mail, there were no in Beverly Hills, one might wonder if the to Leonora Carrington and Martín forms of expression non traditionally
to collaborate in the costumes design of his creations. In the 90’s he refined social networks. And that impacted on adjective: fashion, is not much better Rentería himself mixed with those who included in the official art canon.
for tv programs and soap operas. In 1992, his style, characterized by the constant the way to capture the attention and understood in Mexico in syntony with his would be known as fashion designers like This exhibition sought to provide a
she developed her first independent mixture of baroque, Victorian, medieval imagination of audiences. creations than the one of high fashion for julia anD renata FranCo or Cynthia theoretical approach to the creation
collection under the brand ‘nasty and Renaissance elements. At the Two decades later, how can one the grand mexican public. góMez, judged by cultural personalities of fashion, presenting an overview of
Casual Wear’, sold in boutique chains beginning of the new century, Terrones quantify the existence of designers of including Anna Fusoni. what was done in the 1990s by Mexican
throughout the Mexican Republic. intends to open the path of Mexican whom there are no references or who creators who have worked the same in
In 1995 she launched a modern youth fashion towards the rest of the world and chose to dedicate themselves to other The curator Pancho López had a similar Mexico as abroad and who, through
line, elegant and with the highest actively participates in new markets such things? proposal from 2002 to 2013, first at the their garments, have managed to offer
quality materials, which is distributed as: Paris, Madrid, Medellín, Bogota and In 2017 a fashion brand like sarah Museo del Chopo with an alternative their consumers a tool of identity, a
in department stores such as: Liverpool, Miami. He graduated from the instituto Bustani, although apparently does not fashion show called ‘MoDales’ catwalk particular lifestyle and above all glamor
Palacio de Hierro, JC Penney, Etc., superior De Diseño y MoDa jannette have the brand presence that had at first of attires made with unusual materials and entertainment.
consolidating itself as a brand and klein, began his professional career still has 50,000 followers in facebook, such as seeds, wire, videotapes, candy,
achieving great acceptance in the coordinating the licensing department online sales and her own website the electric cables and paper, among For that, 9 brands were summoned,
youth market. As of this year (2001), of Halston and Guy Laroche in Mexico. same as with 80’s WanDa aMieiro. others, where art were incorporated which were actually 11 designers because
the catwalks in which she presents her In the other hand izet and hazel Baeza page 338 into the world of fashion’. And then alessanDro alviani and león Felipe
collections, cause great expectation In parallel he got involved in various being a multi-brand at the time, have no in the Teatro de la Ciudad emphasizing roMero were in duet, as were julia anD
within the fashion insiders for its aspects related to fashion as accessories reference in the networks, which is the the artistic side, with .MoDales. After renato FranCo and izet anD hazel Baeza.
spectacular montages and productions. designer, coordinator of catwalks and same case of a major designer as gene In a time where soap that taking into academic instances in
professor of various subjects.Where he Matouk, of him there are no digital operas -telenovelas- capture public 2015 with an under degree in San Carlos All Mexicans, all born between 1964
She is considered the designer who best achieved a strategic network of contacts memories, only digital oblivion. imagination - alCanzar una estrella, / UNAM. Quite interesting since the and 1972 -and by that time all around
handles the fabrics containing elastane that later on would take advantage María MerCeDes, el preMio Mayor -. University does not have in its curricula thirtysomething. - Of the others,
by the brand Lycra, as she takes full to position him like one of the most In the case of ernesto hernanDez he In an age where in music, infamous studies in fashion although it flirts with MaCario jiMénez, néstor osuna,
advantage of the qualities of this fiber. overwhelming designers of his country. had an active career with stores in the aesthetic abhors like ov7, kaBah, anahí the subject from time to time. Cynthia góMez, MauriCio olvera,
Condesa, first making work in men’s and Fey sounding with predictable and the collective zaino as well as héCtor
The comfort, ease and movement that His tireless decision to distinguish fashion, presence on catwalks, and later despisable rhythms, the mainstream took It is worth highlight the three editions Mijangos, completed this generation’s
her garments project, put them at the himself and succeed in Mexico’s changed residency to take action in such possession of the popular imagination. that have been organized in the same portrait. In the catalog, it is stated
forefront of fashion. In addition to her underdeveloped market in the late 80’s diverse areas as teaching, production, Academy of San Carlos by the professors that two years later ‘almost 3/4 of the
clothing line, she designs the image and and early 90’s was confirmed through sales, catwalks organization and even In contrast, the nightlife moved from the Claudia Cano Mariaud and Alma participants in the sample, went out of
costumes of different actors, actresses his constant participation in national a congress espaCio MoDa 2o17, all in established discos to raves in houses and Martinez since 2014 and have taken fashion and dedicated themselves to
and singers like: Thalía and Lucero. and international catwalks, beauty Cancun, so revitalizing his presence and grounds, and fashion sought ways in which to the campus an academic discussion completely different things: organizing
In 1997, she joined sentimentally to one contests, exhibitions, radio programs, endorsing the value of his continous through performance, there was an attempt about fashion in a collaboration of the corporate events, managing their brands,
of the most important comedians and television & written media, becoming creative endeavours. to create alternative fashion imagery. FAD -FaCulty oF arts anD Design- with designing accessories and furniture’.
Mexican actors of the time: Eugenio one of the most active characters in his other institutions such as the iBero-
Derbez, achieving a dumbbell demanded field. In 1996, he established the high A parallel fashion is drawn from julio Martín rentería (12/20/65) is a designer. aMeriCana university and editors, At that time, 2oo2, Cooperativa 244
by the press and the media. In May 1999, fashion studio that today takes his name Chavez to heCtor terrones, passing At that time he combined the idea designers, photographers, etc. was founded in a nascent Condesa, in
she started her line of bags at expo and extended his lines to: brides, haute through the designer Mitzy, that of the of action art with fashion, presenting Amsterdam St: ‘12 designers - Maria
MoDaMa in Guadalajara and sapiCa in couture, footwear, prêt-a-porter and maximalist excesses that attended the himself in artistic forums such as the rosa Manzini, aDriana olivera - the
León, Guanajuato, surpassing all sales jewelry ‘18 kts. + Diamonds’. world of show biz and that in Mexico 1st perForManCe Month Festival at the Pájara - who came from the world
expectations. Her firm continued to was an important market in a world in
Museo del Chopo, organized by Prado of theater, Fiorenza CorDero whose
gain strength in the late 1990s and early The sensual, glamorous and sophisticated which the great Tv channels dominated
in 1992. accessories are works of art, ClauDia
2000s with the opening of her own costumes, with the constant use of the the entertainment industries achieving
suinaga graphic designer and former
stores in the best shopping centers in corset that characterizes him, is based imaginaries in which people ended up
With the same interests in mind Cristina student of jewelry in Florence, soFía
the country, counting to date with 17 on three principles: art, style and using fashion from the aesthetics of ‘las
Faesler founded in 1992 Control Bureau, Massün who studied fashion design
boutiques. Her never ending creativity functionality. Thus determined a model estrellas’, but that underwent a great
an agency that made artistic and page 342 in Barcelona, Malena De la riva
and talent opened the door to foreign of hegemonic femininity in his time. change when, with the internet, the way
cultural projects, and then organized one of the most sought after stylists
markets such as the United States and Héctor Terrones was born on November in which people have fun and conceive
in 1997 the event MoDas terMinales, for cinema and ads, taMara Cruz,
South America, where she aims to 9, 1966 in Mexico, D.F. FP: Adolfo Pérez fame was radically transformed.
consolidate her brand and style. In 2002, Butrón FT: Sascha Bröse
ojales apoCalíptiCos o los DoBlaDillos
Del Caos. And in 1998 MoDas De
B o u t i q u e xiMena FernánDez, roWena Morales
who specialized in jewelry in England.
she is considered the most renowned (Mitzy) Jorge García Cárdenas came From 12/13/2ooo to o3/18/2oo1 the
juguete ... De hilvanaDo naCional y genoveva álvarez, daughter of Manuel
Mexican designer. Sarah Monter. from a family of very humble peasants Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil south of
Corte universal... o lo que es lo MisMo... Álvarez Bravo, who weaves each of her
She was born on January 31, 1965. pages 334 - 337 from Michoacán who came to México Mexico City, presented the exhibition
tengo una MuñeCa vestiDa De azul. pieces by hand ... Carla FernánDez,
FP:, FT: Adolfo Pérez Butrón city. In a fortunate stroke he began ‘Boutique’, the first show about fashion
Events that through convocation sought art historian and social fighter, who
inserts BeloW FaCsiMilar pages making clothes for a friend who would presented in a mexican museum curated
the creation of experimental garments, works with indigenous communities and
héCtor terrones become a famous transvestite ‘Francis’ by ana elena Mallet. Stubborn, she
art for the body. Being presented 1st in creates syncretism between ethnic and
The end of the twentieth century had a and from there, made the necessary insisted and was able to produce the
the Metropolitan Cinema and 2nd in the modern fashion. Some likes the silk &
Considered a pure maximalist, Hector fashion structure in which each designer connections to establish his brand Mitzy, catalog although it was presented two
University of the Claustro de Sor Juana. other the polyester. Some works silver.
Terrones is one of the most controversial with milestones like the wedding dress years after the show conclusion.
440 441
Other prefers plastic... The point is there Then his immaculate and simple line, while In this way, the point is expanded and At the beginning of the century, in social media, with an instagram of a soMething very intiMate: “Someone
is strenght in diversity’. All of which, once sophisticated, makes the dress fit, gentle results common in Mexico for several Harper’s Bazaar Mexico came to the nourished tens of thousands followers. once told me that I had an angel. I
again, will not continue with their fashion and affable to the body. And is then, when decades. Just remember the Don Regino real age majority, and to celebrate its So after all, alFaro is rising and building always get up at seven in the morning
activities in a huge percentage and the the garment is sublime, able to transform woven vests of the Familia Burron 21 anniversary, they launched a special a brand ... still. because something enters my house ...
one with the biggest draw was only Carla. the silhouette (improving it), it is when -a mexican traditional comic- or the issue to analyze what was Fashion in will it be my angel?
fashion as the premise of a dress became the various garments such as vests, used by MexiCo. It was October of the year 2ooo. Where he sells: in the Palacio de Hierro.
At that time the fashion platform of adjective in everyones lips, or the goal that the Hermanos Soler -(imagine in Mx In Mextilo the FilM (Prado, 2o14) ana
the late twentieth century was ‘Días De the designer has always had in mind: make we have five James Stewarts and all elena Mallet mentions that she spoke víCtor alFaro
MoDa’, which became ‘Fashion Week’ your clothes a must in every wardrobe. are brothers)- in their different naive with the magazine and knowing that
merged with other platforms and at films. What do they said about Pedro at the same time she was preparing the He is the Mexican designer in the
last ended as we understand today But the singular thing about Infante in Pepe el Toro? In the seventies, ‘Boutique’ exhibition, she was told that major fashion leagues. That is why him
the ‘MerCeDes Benz Fashion Week’ Macario is the way in which ideas the use of the point extends and ‘there was no Mexican fashion, that they occupies a special place in this delivery.
which just turned 10 Years in 2016. come to create something new and reaches the bulk of mexican peoples. had to make the note, but there was not page 352, 353 He was born in 1965, in Mexico, but
transform it into clothes. Inspiration? real clothing production and that it had has lived in New York since 1981. He
As a colophon, the catalogue made Who has not seen a green sweater been problematic -to say the least- to be graduated from the Fashion institute
the forecast that in the next century, The designer locates everything that in V going back to school days, to able to get the group together.
h arper ’ s B azaar M exiCo oF teChnology. He was an assistant to
with the phenomenon of globalization causes a feeling through the vision ... smiles, to Mexican childhoods? Who 21 st a nniver sary issu e Mary ann restivo and joseph aBBouD,
‘would not be rare that in a few years that goes beyond the fashion, is located does not remember Grandpa’s open When looking at the photo of this until at the beginning of the 90’s he
Mexico could have a prominent role in in daily life, especially in the movement sweaters? Who has not had a turtle generation you can wonder if it is not
( FaC siMila r Mag a zin e ) settled - more than successfully! - on
with kind permission of Harper’s Bazaar
creation unto the planetary fashion.’ of the city, along with its social hurries. neck sweater and once adorned with a a summary of the 20th century more his own. The co-owner of CaFeteria,
In the tenor in which Colombia and At this moment the ideas become sign of love and peace? And yet in the than a forecast of the future that was a fashionable place in Chelsea, has an
It is a whole universe, with achievements,
Brazil had already taken steps to achieve images, these take the form of a garment nineties, even when it was counted [...] to become, because almost 20 years affordable line, VIC, and is still one
shortcomings, a good dose of gossip and
internationalization. At 17 years of the and the rest is history. later, as it became customary, the great of the best friends of the top models
a lot of talent. In it creators, chroniclers,
beginning of the 21st century, this good With his delicate and minimal style, 1, 2 Photography Javier Hinojosa majority of people changed their turn, Amber Valletta and Shalom Harlow.
photographers, models .... Everyone
will is still under construction. :S :O Macario Jiménez is one of the few Mexicans or even died as in the case of Manuel his Beginnings: the first collections
plays their role and brings their own
#maybesomeday #hopeilive2seeit to have crossed the border successfully. He Méndez and Gerardo Dragonetti, or received excellent commentaries
vision. Here is a snapshot that pretends
has shared a runway with Carolina Herrera went into other random enterprises. of critics like Ricky Lee, Woody
to portray what is happening - at this
and recently participated in fashion week Hochswender and Amy Spindler (of
moment in which the country lives an
pages 344 -345 / 346 - 347 in Belgrade, Yugoslavia. The Tapatio -from Still, creators like Cynthia góMez the neW york tiMes). Bridget Foley (of
authentic social, cultural and political
Guadalajara- designer made his fashion (346, 347) and MaCario jiMénez (344, W Magazine) suggested that he could
boom - in Mexican fashion. This is only a
studies at the Marangoni Institute in Italy. 345) repeat from the list in ‘Boutique’. be the heir of Oscar de la Renta and
first approach. Many names are missing,
Later she will perform well in academia, Bill Blass. In 1994 he won the Best neW
many places - and many pages! Our
1 Picture of Ricardo Trabulsi page 351 teaching and her own home accesories talent aWarD from the CounCil oF
B o u t i q u e 2 Photography Javier Hinojosa branch. And him in the creation of his
intention is to open a door from which
you can see inside that fascinating and
Fashion Designers oF aMeriCa.
FaCsiMilar Book pages / ana elena In Spain Francisco Franco was collections and proposals. In the case of his style: of a provocative simplicity,
Mallet / / complex world. The story continues to
reCuento De una exposiCión MagiC threaDs zin By Cynthia góMez the dictator from 1936 until his death Mijangos his space of creation went to the with dazzling night and cocktail dresses,
Museo Carrillo gil 2002 be written, and next year you will see
text FernanDo toleDo in 1975. Once disappeared, the Spanish digital with a musical initiative: noiselaB. perfect for the most chic New Yorkers.
new faces and new talents here.
society had an explosion that was known He is distinguished by the balance of cuts,
MaCario anD the Photo: Edgardo Contreras.
iMage Conversion Since immemorial times knitting has as ‘la MoviDa’ and was fundamental to The case of víCtor alFaro being the textures and colors, by its perfect shape
By Daneé salazar been present in the history of fashion. break with the outmoded schemes and brightest promise of those years is and details as sensual as sophisticated:
Manuel MénDez
And there is something magical, taboos of the society of the past . symptomatic. Born in Chihuahua, he skin, transparencies, necklines.
Do not lose sight of the shape and handmade and cozy in all the woven, went to the United States to learn his inspiration: the feminine body,
highlight the whole silhouette, it seems He is nothing less than the dean of
quilted clothes, like a baby’s blanket. In Mexico, the year 2ooo began with English and finished his studies at the exalted by his designs.
to be an excellent strategy. For Macario fashion in Mexico. He was born in the
Masterfully leaving the hands of incredible promises. Finally, after 75 years, FIT in New York. By the mid-1990s, Designs For: a sensitive woman, without
Jimenez, a 33-year-old Mexican designer, DF -Capital District- on September 12,
craftsmen of ancient and contemporary the PRI government was over, and the the magazine’s W celebrated him as the a specific age, but who appreciates
is the formula that gives life to his 1930 and he is as active as ever. “When I
magnificent factories. There is whole country was waiting for a peaceful most interesting of a generation that luxury and quality, and has a decidedly
proposal, one that does not take away started, in Mexico there was not a single
something soft, ethereal and beautiful transition to a totally different world. included Isaac Mizrahi and Marc Jacobs. modern mindset.
the eye of the image, which does not school of fashion design, so I studied
in the creation, conception and His successes earned him the perry
forget the basic principles of fashion: accounting. I am not ashamed to say that
development of any garment made with Paradoxically the vast majority of the ellis aWarD For Best eMerging talent page 354, 355
make the clothes hanger looks terrific. I learned to design by copying the models
this method. The purl always on point. population remained covered in clothes in 1994. With such impetus that an
Since his very beginning, Macario of the magazines ... This was for seven
and minds of the same conservative Italian brand partnered with him, in an sarah Bustani
has shown a generous ability in the years, learning on my own, until in 1968
In Mexico, the tradition of pre-Hispanic fabric. And missed the opportunity to unfortunate business relationship that
handling of fabrics, always looking for I felt ready to launch my first collection.
and colonial looms represents a have a boiling revolution like the Spanish sent him to a relative retirement until he She was born in Mexico City on January 31
the creation of textures that, regardless Favorite Designer: “At the moment,
colorful custom, a millennial office that of the eighties, but in the Mexico of the was able to buy back his name and brand, of a year that she does not want to reveal
of the type, manage to create glitter, who I like the most is pierre CarDin,
understands design and sweat, anguish new century. There was a spark, a couple presenting a collection in 2014, after a for the moment. Study tourism business
satin and a perfect set of colors. because he is very innovative and has his
and pain. Still living in striped rebozos, of years later by a group of young people decade away from the runways. The administration, then fashion design at
The mixture of these ingredients, always own style with which I identify myself.”
colorful skirts and beautiful flowers, known as ‘las MoDernas’ in colloquial garments in 2017 look sophisticated, the jannette klein, and production line at
renewed and insinuating, makes each sourCes oF inspiration: “I am inspired by
and still found in placid villages of the speech, who almost did it, but apparently result of a complex design process, and the Fashion institute oF teChnology in
collection owner of an air very sensual the tendencies themselves, and by my
Mexican province and on the threat of the did not find a suitable medium for a after the hiatus, the adaptation curve, is New York. “When I went to buy clothes
and feminine. clientele”.
thousand migrations to the great capital. social experiment of this magnitude. surprising to see he has a great vitality I did not find anything, here in Mx,
442 443
everything came a year later. I started soMething very intiMate: “Music is the page (354, 355) night, with the group I met to pray and Where he sells: in his showroom Mariana luna
designing with the aim of filling that engine of my life”. meditate, I decided to leave everything (Popocatépetl 11, Condesa, Tel. 5207-
space.” She began working in fashion in Where she sells: in her showroom (Nuevo MaCarena gutiérrez in God’s hands and forget the subject. 1177), and in his store in Hermosillo. She was born in Mexico City on
1992, and launched her first collection Leon 148-7, Condesa, Tel. 5211-8805) I thought if he wanted to, everything December 4, 1969. She studied fashion
signed with her name in 95. After posing for the photo with the would be all right. And he wanted to. MaCario jiMénez design at the Fashion institute oF
Favorite Designer: “I love Galliano” Cynthia góMez / zin designers, Macarena flew to Spain. As That’s why I say that he is my manager, teChnology in New York and at the
sourCes oF inspiration: “The needs of you can imagine, our attempts to do my representative, because he made Macario was born in Guadalajara Marangoni institute in Milan. There
women today”. She was born in Mexico City on November this interview were unsuccessful. But everything happen”. on November 8, 1977 and studied at she stayed at trussarDi and then
soMething very intiMate: “If I’m not in 21, 1973 and studied fashion design at the Macarena is a designer who does not Where he sells: in his store, located in Marangoni institute, one of the best returned to Mexico. Here she set to
love I can not design”. Jácome Higher Institute of Design, Satélite. need many presentations, because her Parral # 26, Condesa. Tel 5211-7300 schools in Europe. “Fashion is all I can work for Marithé & FranCois girBauD
Where she sells: in Liverpool and in Then a bachelor’s degree in textile design swimsuits speak for themselves. Proof think of. Throughout my life I have and then for the julio stores ... until she
the twenty stores that take her name from universiDaD iBeroaMeriCana, a of this is that you can find them in any BlanCa estela sánChez been in love with fibers and clothing. “ decided to create his own line.
throughout the country. diploma in administration and marketing of of viCtoria’s seCret stores, she is He debuted with a runway in the La She started selling her designs in her
at Instituto teCnológiCo De Monterrey under contract there. At 43 years old, She was born on August 8, 1968 and Tirana bar on October 5 of 1994, with workshop since 1994, and her first
keko DeMiChelis and then took specialization courses at st. Macarena continues with the eye well studied fashion design in jannette klein. a collection made with fibers, and catwalk was held in 1996.
Martin’s sChool oF Fashion in London. put in the avantgarde. In addition to She has a specialty in analysis of trends and today it is characterized by garments Favorite Designer: “arMani. I really
Born in Mexico City on October 3, She debuted with Zin in early 1997. practicing as a designer by almost two production in Los Angeles. She presented that, although different, look for to like what he does, his simple and classic
1961. Keko studied architecture, but Favorite Designer: “thierry Mugler, a decades, this Spaniard born in Linares in her launch runway in 1998, although she be practical and to make the user looks things, his fabrics, his cuts. He is a
practically grew up in a factory because genius you must pay homage”. 1956 and settled in Mexico for more than was designing six years before for enrique good in it. designer always at the forefront”.
his father had a textile and clothing sourCes oF inspiration: “It depends on ten years, is a publi-relationist and knows Martínez a the palaCio De hierro and Favorite Designer: “Every year I love sourCes oF inspiration: “I am inspired
industry. When his father died, Keko the collection, but I never lose sight of how to fly an airplane. (you read well!) also for héCtor terrones. a different one. When I started I by everything. Designers need to be
was barely 20 years old, but he had to my consumer.” From her extensive curriculum stands Favorite Designer: “valentino, really liked arMani, but now I prefer open, see what’s going on in the world,
stay in charge of the company. Hence soMething very intiMate: “I love poetry, a private and commercial pilot license Christian Dior and BalenCiaga”. Donatella versaCe”. learn about music, take pressure on
his interest in design. His first collection especially the Chilean Vicente Huidobro, obtained in London. If not enough, in sourCes oF inspiration: “For my most sourCes oF inspiration: “I am inspired by society, know what people are looking
was launched in 1985, and then El Palacio and art in all its expressions.” her free time she plays racket, collects recent collection, I was inspired by everything that happens around me. On for, as well as being well-informed about
de Hierro began selling his clothing Where she sells: in Liverpool and Sears; And antiques and devotes hours to appreciate what you would wear to tour the TV, on the Internet ... Everything I live international trends”.
exclusively. soon in Canada. Also to the telephone art in all its forms. Now we understand most important cities on the African every day gives me new ideas”. soMething very intiMate: “Luna is not my
Favorite Designer: “It depends on the 5357-0415 or in www.zin.com.mx why we can not find her anywhere... continent.” soMething very intiMate: “That fashion last name but my nickname. They call me
different moments”. (Workshop: Venustiano Carranza 28, Centro) soMething very intiMate: “I like to be is a passion for me, something that I wake like this because I’m a lunatic, because
sourCes oF inspiration: “Inspiration can héCtor Mijangos / WWt alone, I enjoy being with myself” up and go to bed every day.” I’m always in another dimension and it
come at any time, the problem is having gerarDo Dragonetti Where she sells: At the moment I only Where it sells: in el palaCio De hierro costs me a lot of work to land”.
your eyes wide open to find it.” He was born in Mexico City on June sells on order at 5574-2939, but you will and in his showroom (Hegel 232-101, Where she sells: in Frattina, El Palacio
soMething very intiMate: “I think I’ve 20, 1962 and studied systems and He is a Capricorn of January 19th of ’66, soon find my clothes in Frattina. Polanco. Tel. 5531-5282). de Hierro, Habito and in her showroom
been very honest with my work, and computer science at the universiDaD and was born in Argentina. He studied (Newton 257-10, Polanco, Tel 5531-0941).
that honesty has sometimes brought me iBeroaMeriCana. He started making scenography and, in it, the costume page 356
problems with certain stores.” his own clothes because there were no asignature: “There I discovered that what heCtor terrones néstor osuna MauriCio olivera / grypho
Where he sells: in his workshop, by clothes he liked. In 1988 the paralelo I liked the most was fashion design”. In
means of appointments, to 5531-3781; In CatorCe brand was born. In the early 1990 he presented his first prêt-a-porter He would rather say his weight than his Néstor was born on May 8, 1967 in the He was born in Cuernavaca, Morelos
Playa del Carmen and in Cabo San Lucas. nineties he created the line revoluCion collection and in 1992 the first haute age ... but confesses to being born in state of Sinaloa. He studied industrial on July 24, 1967 and studied business
1910, which was sold in Europe, Asia and couture one. Mexico City in 1966. He studied with design for five years and then went to Italy administration at the universiDaD
the United States. About three years ago He arrived in Mexico in 1998, just for jannette klein and a Victorian corsets to study fashion design at the Marangoni iBeroaMeriCana. He was interested in
Malena oF the riva / no. 71 WWT was born, “a concept that applies sightseeing... and here he stayed: “In specialty at the los angeles Fashion institute. He stayed there, among others, fashion since he was a child (his sister and
technology to clothing with new cuts Argentina there is my family, but here institute oF Design anD MerChanDising. with alessanDro Dell’aCqua. “I went mother own the FaCCiata store). “I’m
She was born in Argentina on July 12, 1971 but and materials, dismantling parts and a I have another, which is the one you With thirteen years in the design to his runway, I loved his clothes, I sent one of those rare cases of a child fashion
as a child she went with her family to Mexico. different packaging”. choose, so I am happy.” In May 1999 he bussines. He managed guy laroChe’s him my resume by fax ... and then they victim.” He started making leather goods
She studied graphic design at the National Favorite Designer: “FranCois girBauD, opened his boutique. girls’ license and dedicated himself for called me. Simple!” His first collection while living in the State of Mexico with
Institute of Fine Arts and then fashion design the most revolutionary in the world”. Favorite Designer: “My favorite in every many years to making wedding dresses. was released in Mexico in 1998. an indigenous Mazahua community, with
at jannette klein. She always wanted to sourCes oF inspiration: “Everything I’ve way is arMani. Sober and modest, he is a His break was when FernanDo toleDo Favorite Designer: “Martin Margiela, whom he set up a company within the
have her own clothing line, so for six years lived, music, cinema ...” person and a designer who always imposes”. asked him for a dress for a special avant- because he is avant-garde, trash, elegant, soliDariDaD program, about eight years
she dedicated herself to costume design for soMething very intiMate: “We have an sourCes oF inspiration: “A Borges’ garde bridal: “I did it with Victorian super ... By the way, I want to work with ago. He then set up a store in Polanco
film and television. With her savings she was electronic music recorder called noise poem, a tango or an opera ... All the metal silver goblets and came out him! Give me his address! with the same products six years ago. At
able to launch her line No. 71 that was born laB, we are managers of almost every time something different. The new portrayed everywhere. Worst of all is sourCes oF inspiration: “I inspired myself. that moment he brought his workshop
in February of this year. DJ in Mexico. Also an internet company collection, which is very eighties, comes that it even sold out!” I like to copy nobody. I simply try to make to Mexico and began to make jackets.
Favorite Designer: “Issey Miyake, more than called synthetiCs, where we do, for from my memories of that time, from Favorite Designer: “thierry Mugler, the woman feel sexy, to feel different He obtained the Boy lonDon license
a designer, an artist. Their garments are example, web pages”. how I lived love and how I met women: avant-garde, futuristic, ergonomic and when she puts on a garment of mine”. and manufactured for DoMit, pepe jeans,
architectural pieces, with structure, texture, Where he sells: in all the departmental the former was inspired by Africa ... “ architectural”. soMething very intiMate: “I can not stand guess and other brands. Four years ago
color and culture. It’s very interesting.” stores of the country and soon in Japan, the sMtg very intiMate: “When I arrived in sourCes oF inspiration: “My experiences to live in the city, I like nature more.” he decided to make a line of his own that
sourCes oF inspiration: “In this last United States and Canada. It is also about Mexico I did not know whether to settle and the information I am acquiring”. Where he sells: in the store Habito would respond to the needs of the youth
collection I was inspired by the graphic to open four WWT stores in Mexico, or not. I had many fears, had to make an soMething very intiMate: “That if I do (Presidente Masaryk 360 local 9. market, and that would work in all the
and geometric.” Guadalajara, Monterrey and Puebla. investment, open a company .... One not have a sex life, I can not work”. Passage Polanco). seasons. This is how grypho was born.
444 445
Favorite Designer: “hussein Chalayan, page 360 blouses, pantijeans. They uploaded their page 363 From that generation the girls had page 368
because everything is played for the whole”. creations to Myspace -a primitive form of another performance: ale quesaDa,
sourCes oF inspiration: “Women, even a social network- and began to create a A fashion brand in order to born in CDMx in 1981, studied at Casa There will be a time when
to make men’s clothes”.
soMething very intiMate: “I spend 70%
youth: Divine treasure community of followers. They appeared
in the Fashion Week of 2oo7 and 2oo8,
survive depends on being able to summon
all types of consumers who finds in that
FranCia and put her mark in 2oo6. Her
stamp is the girly silhouette as in cheerful
you can make a book, just by putting
together the group photos intend it to
ya te vas para no volver, cuando quiero
of what I earn on horses. I have a ranch llorar no lloro y a veces lloro sin querer! sponsored by brands like aMeriCan imaginary a multiplicity of inclusive clothes, close to that lolicon aesthetic fix some creative moment generation in
where my adoration lives, which is my >.< :..( Poem by Rubén Darío apparel and sauza, but something was adjectives with which to identify. The making her a successful business in Japan. Mexican fashion.
mare ‘La Dona’ and my granddaughter, changing. His heart logo turned into spirit of these early- twentieth first- She has collaborated with Nike and
a redfish filly called ‘Lust’. In the perennial promise that any bleeding fangs and the mood between century brands was correct in rebellion Grupo Axo, and her current collections On Saturday, January 22, 2o11, the
Where he sells: in department stores given decade would be the one where the two creators became more tense. In and the need to break schemes, but are so coherent, joyful and timely, her newspaper Reforma in its fashion section
and in its own stores, which are in Plaza Mexican fashion at last would succeed, an age of excesses Quetzal depended wrong in the sense that they were closed presence in networks so strong, it strikes published two sets of new promises to
Loreto, Plaza Satélite and in Mazatlán It was surprising that this next generation on alcohol. On September 12, 2008 he brands to a certain type of insider, at that it seems her name is not repeated follow, in the first, the lineup was:
82, Condesa (5359-6167). Also sold in was so young, essentially rebellious and appeared crashed in the inner patio of his right parties, with the right attitude, as much as certain other brands that
Colombia and Costa Rica. painfully fleeting. building, had fallen 4 floors. but without money to buy and so, failed are only boring, and would be taboo to José Manuel Borbolla-event planning
He was 23 years old. to make the critical mass to make them describe them as plain,posh, prudy and / Anairam-photographer / kris goyri
The relay enlisted a new group of enterprises, viable and real. ‘beiges’ even when they are. -designer / Vera Félix - fashion expert
julia anD renata people, on the one hand: ale quesaDa, Marvin presented a collection that year, / johann Mergenthaler - model and
trista, MalaFaCha. But at the same but obviously went through a very difficult It should not be forgotten that Quetzal paola hernánDez, born in ‘82, is one entrepreneur / alexia uliBarri - designer
If their designs were not enough, Julia time the group of teaMo, ManCanDy, period. Eight years later MYQ’s brand rises himself mentioned: “something is of the few Mexican brands that has
and Renata Franco would call our paola hernánDez and of course teMores
once again and is featured in MBFW 16, happening. There is a movement. We fulfilled the dream of opening a store A week later, in the second installment
attention because they got along so well (359, 367), and Marvin & quetzal (362- with the adjectives that characterize it as are doing something that refers to our in New York. Garments that appear of: Young Mexican stars under 30 y.o.,
despite being sisters. Renata was born 366). “In Mexico City, the hipster is being youthful, cutting-edge and fun. origins. Everything I do has Mexican simple, but adding form / color / texture the team looked like this (367)
on April 20, 1973 and Julia on March essentially an expression of the comfort references. The Myq line is inspired by are conceptual exercises. Presents her
7, 1970, in Guadalajara. Both studied in of the middle classes”, writes journalist In a chronicle of that post-mortem the native mazahuas and tarahumaras, collections in the palaCio De hierro. pink Magnolia - paola Wong / noé
the Centro De Diseño De MoDas of that Daniel Hernández, in his book “DoWn runway of 2oo8, it is said that in the and the piñatas. The city is evoked in roa - Designer / María viDel - Designer
city. When they finished they began to anD Delirious in MexiCo City” published
front row were Temores, César Arellano, the garments. The colors are neon, A fundamental element, a catalyst that / Carlos ortega - Designer / lorena
work together, and won an illustration in 2o11. A recount of the years of the Mike Salas and others. What is disturbing chemical, almost aggressive. I always made this generation different: was that saravia - Designer / Franklin Collado -
competition and went to New York. turn of the century and the nocturnal is that is a list of dead guys less than 1O make references, but I take them to they had to be the first to understand Editor / soFía Félix - Designer / raFael
“On our return we decided that we mess, appearing Zemmoa (359), César years away, and all in circumstances a more global level, not so obvious. and use the internet. Cuevas anD roBerto sánChez - Designers
wanted to do this forever.” In 1991 they Arellano the photographer of ‘Diario never completely cleared up. Otherwise it is nothing more kitsch’ ... - teaMo brand
presented their first collection (with De Fiestas’ and in a chapter titled ‘a
On January 7, 2015, Temores made the In a way, the dichotomy of national johann Mergenthaler, entrepreneur,
materials such as branches and plastic) FeathereD serpent With BurBerry lenses’,
same trip as Quetzal falling from the identity was still being discussed here. model and promoter of fashion Three years later, 2o14, in its 15th
for the Guadalajara Fashion Show. quetzalCóatl rangel. third floor of his building, he was 31 initiatives, comments on Mextilo the anniversary edition, the Vogue
years old. A little time before them, and from FilM (Prado 2014): ‘...we can talk about a Magazine in its second life in Mexico,
Favorite Designer: “junya WatanaBe In the year 2003 the designer Marvin He has made his debut in 2oo8 at outside their ‘group’, another designer fashion story in Mexico, which is from the the generation photo contained:
with her line of fabrics for CoMMe Durán was presented to a youngman from DFashion. He presented only four Sergio Alcalá had opened the avangarde moment the internet was born. Before
Des garçons, because she is the only runways and then went on to other in the xxist century with his aesthetic we could talk about the prehistory of natalie aMkie / vanessa gluCkel /
Tabasco in a trendy look. Marvin was born
designer who does avant-garde things, on November 9, 1980 in the Venezuelan things. ‘We are very young but I do not excess, a collage of influences that fashion in Mx -without of course leaving juan luis valaDez / kris goyri / Carla
who is really visionary and is ahead ten Andes, and Quetzal on January 6, 1985, think there is anyone in Mexico who has could also be read as pure kitsch ... anyone out-. But the difference is that FernánDez / josé alFreDo silva / paulo
or fifteen years in time” so that one was 22 and the other 18. The the criterion, to understand what we do He had an early debut at 22 y.o. in someone who lives in a remote area of Mx suCCar / sanDra Weil / Cynthia
sourCes oF inspiration: “We are all day construction of their impossible image as fashion, why do not go and ask that 2oo6 Fashion Week - with themes like and can not go to NY, if can go online, Büttenklepper / alexia uliBarri /
together, we live in the same house and gave them entrance to all parties and the to Rei Kawakubo - but hey, they do not ‘Huichol Galáctico’, he became sort of can see what is happening outside and alejanDra quesaDa / FranCisCo CanCino
we talk a lot. Suddenly an idea arises in ‘Social chronic’ of those times. Quetzal even know who Kawakubo is-’ an outsider, neither of the ‘modernas’ participate. Like anDy torres who was / alFreDo Martínez / giovanni estraDa
one of us and the other part of that idea at that time studied at Casa Francia, nor the establishment. born in Irapuato and is one of the most / lorena saravia / anDrés jiMénez.
or the other way around. We never put where Carlos teMores was also enrolled, In the obituary to him by the National important bloggers in the country. The
limits, everyone designs what they want but they lasted very little time, barely a Chamber of the Garment Industry, is If the prototype of the ‘artist expressing internet is a fundamental piece and we In the same year, harper’s Bazaar en
and in the end something very similar couple of semesters, and they dropped said: ‘always an individualist wanted the himself’ is a sure way to fail as a designer, have used it very well’. Español, made an article ‘the neW
comes out because we are so connected”. out. #toocoolforschool market to understand him, without him in this case these creators will forever triBe’ (394-407) that could well be the
soMething very intiMate: Renata loves having to understand the market’ and remain the perfect example of the second part of that made in the year
to eat. And Julia always has to be They play with names like ‘rata both statements summarize an aspect ‘enfant terrible’. 2ooo (352-356). ‘Presenting the names of
clarifying that she and Renata are not a Margarita’ or ‘je n’aiMe pas l’eCole’ of that generation of creators: they mexican design that have prepared the
couple. but in the end they decided on Marvin were incapable of creating friendly and And if death is always painful, that of ground for the eyes of global fashion to
Where they sell: in Mexico City, in the anD quetzal (Myq), and presented
inclusive brands for Mexico. promising young people is unbearable. turn towards Mx’, now the list was as
Area store (Atlixco 71, Condesa), in themselves with a catwalk at the Hostal :( It was the wrong time to play the follows: trista / yakaMpot / alejanDro
Nuevo León in the Studio store (Real Virreyes in September of 2oo4. From Mexican ‘Party Monster’ (Bailey, Carlín / ManCanDy / Cihuah / Cynthia
San Agustín 222, km 3 Garza García), their workshop in José Cevallos 52, 2003), and this teaches us that just as Büttenklepper / kris goyri / alFreDo
in their showroom (Av. Vallarta 1020- in San Miguel Chapultepec began to in art, excessive bohemia does not go Martínez / julia y renata / alexia
8 Guadalajara) and in Fixión (Av. create cut garments, cotton and silk anywhere, unless the party is creative, uliBarri / sanDra Weil / lorena saravia
Universidad 1001, Plaza Bosques, blends and prints of their faces - shirts, fun ... and productive. / josé sánChez.
Aguascalientes)
446 447
In the world of art, it is understood What is really complex, is to make that have nothing to do with technological advances made it a project be the progenitor of Mexican fashion create meaning. And this culture,
that only those productions that are concepts through the medium of fashion, Mexico, geographically, culturally, ahead of its time: to be able to buy the and call themselves as their mother when articulated and conceptualized,
recognized as part of the art system and in which the reflection arises first from economically or politically ... but since garment you see on the catwalk right figure ... No! >: / gives rise to spaces as fundamental as
placed in the museum, are those that the construction of the garment and they work for those using those schemes, there by just picking it. The existence of the Fashion institute oF teChnology
reach the status of artistic piece. In our after from the collection is a whole, how we believe that it will also work for us, rose, a digital assistant that using trends Traveling to give lectures and teach
world of Mexican fashion, something it reflects and rises new ideas. the eternal error of copying. and AI helped the designer in creating classes I have been going to the most FIT in New York, apart from being one
is changing because it is not just the their collections. distant places in the country, and of the leading fashion schools in the
brands, it is also that we already have FranCisCo salDaña and víCtor hernal, are And this is not the case, now there is an Innovation, a disruptive project. wherever you go there is Fusoni, world, in its rooms are exhibited the
the existence of a system of thinking, at same time in & out of the system. They obsession wanting us the designers to But it was not the first time Fusoni had lecturing every semester in interMoDa, most evocative fashion shows, bringing
promotion, exhibit curation: an emerging always present in the best fashion platforms become wholesale producers, disguised done something like this. Minerva Fashion, tijuana innovaDora, together the fashion characters - Daphne
fashion intelligentsia. (375-385) of the country. But precisely because their as “entrepreneurs”, and yes, we must be in Pachuca. Everywhere you go, there Guinness, Susanne Bartsch, Quentin
product is not the ‘evening dress’ they professional and entrepreneurial, but Around 1986 she created MoDa preMio she is. In each place people knows her, Crisp -. The great creators: Halston,
In these lists, it is painted in color only are not seem to be the editor’s favorites. in the language of fashion, to not sell that for 25 years was the contest to loves her, the students look for her, and Westwood, YSL. As well as new
those names dedicated to clothing fast-fashion is a must and the bazaars of promote the new talents of design. In she stops and listens. territories to imagine fashion: Fashion
design, the first time that the name Brand founded in 2005, it walks apart Canaive -Camara Nacional de la Industria successive incarnations her idea continued: & politiCs, a queer history oF Fashion.
appears, if it is male or female, and we in a market niche in which, it once was del Vestido- are full of brands with Contest of Young creators, Mezclarte, If someone has had the vocation to help
can see that only the list of the Harper’s splendidly alone, and to which increasingly these schemes. We do not need more, Concepto T3 - an entry platform at young people and give them their first In the year 2ooo, Miguel CovarruBias was
is almost without color. But is the best new proposals are added: the possibility nor strengthen, that production sector the time of MB-DFashion - and Creare opportunity is she. In a milieu in which happy, because a prize was awarded in his
of them all: there are designers who had of speaking from the avant-garde and the of clothing that is quite healthy.We - that in 2017 reached ten editions. every decade every brand extinguish: name to a Mexican girl - tanya - for her
appear already since the Desirée Navarro’s counterculture to a conservative public, must create new schemes, languages and she survived 5 decades of creation. degree thesis in museology, the science
book, a surprisingly young Alejandro who needs to be ‘guided’ to understand ways to grow the industry of Fashion’. In 1978 she participated in the creation And for that, and for all her ‘firsts’ if that studies how museums work.
Carlin, Julia y Renata. People from these types of proposals and would at last of the seMana De la MoDa in Mexico, anyone could be the ‘Mother oF Fashion And with that, she asked for a FullBright
avantgarde like Mancandy. And Trista, ‘make room for them’. In their vocation to transform this after her company ONC - National in MexiCo’ That is Fusoni. O.ob sCholarship for higher studies for curation
Yakampot and Lorena Saravia that are fashion, Francisco and Victor also Office of Purchasing - organized salón abroad ... but in fashion. Giving the jump
serious proposals of production and sales. An avid collector of books, bordering dedicate themselves to teaching. Saldaña Boutique and priMera visión. In 1985 from the university oF the aMeriCas to
Authors like Ulibarri and Goyri in obsession, Saldaña is a librarian who has led the jannette klein university. the hotel where she would present the Page 378 the Fit: Studies of fashion, theory of the
who have grown in proposal and searches in his multiple references those Malafacha shows that fashion is not Salón, falls in the earthquake and she fashion, history of the fashion. Context,
sophistication over time, -something ideas that are not generated in what done in just one way. had to rise and resolve, as she has always study and thought that have made fashion
that is not so obvious because there are they already know, but in what they do done, reinventing herself. t a n y a M e l é n D e z structures more advanced in terms of
brands that are stagnant or flat, starting discover and thus each collection becomes research in those latitudes than in ours.
as designers and then devolutioning to a treaty, justifying not only their narrative, In the editorial, now she is director of ‘Fashion is a cultural product, a With these abilities, she decided that
dressmakers in few seasons. but their deep reflection. Pachucos, ks Magazine, but in the past she was symbolic language, a set of beliefs that traditional curatorship was not her thing
butoh dancers, children’s stories, director of the magazine ClauDia, of a group of people shares and includes but the curation of educational processes.
But there is a strange absence: punks and gypsies, Mexican traditions. the Feminova section of newspaper tattoos, hairstyle decorations. And Since 2oo8 she has been Senior Curator of
MalaFaCha ... O.o Ovaciones. She was fashion director of that is linked to a constant change and Education and Public Programs of FIT and
Their collection santo reMeDio SS the FWM - Fashion Week MexiCo - in the is a system that includes individual organizes two symposiums and around 30
17 presented in the 10th MBFW in Foto those times of José Andrés Patiño. organizations, can be universities, lectures a year.
Museo, took as reference the Sonora museums, Canaive, etc.
market, Mexico City’s witchcraft page 377 (4 laDies & 1 gentleMan) With the name of Fusoni Fashion What was done for L.A. to become a To be with her is to place oneself in just
headquarters. With models parading like netWork was given to the task fashion capital?: suppliers, creators, one degree of separation of emblematic
dolls of closed eyes painted as if they of networking, creating contacts, flexible industry, all get together... but figures like Bill Cunningham. And if not
were open. In this collection they make a n n a F u s o n i discovering new talents. netWorking! it was necessary that there was solid enough, she collaborates closely with
a a new and fresh start for the brand, research in L.A. And that fashion had the director Dr. valerie steele, who is
searching in their files iconic garments In a forum on a street Throughout this research it is revealed, formal and informal relations with the one of the planetary referents of what
page 370 from their 20 previous collections, to in Polanco there was something a bit very preponderant that Ramón culture of the city. is generated in studies and research in
start a new stage of their history. strange happening, there was lights, Valdiosera Berman is a man of too many To talk about fashion education in Mx. fashion, history and theory.
M a l a F a C h a models, make-up artists, the generalized ‘firsts’: first designer with the integrative you have to understand that the degrees
Francisco was born on April 20, 1981, mess of any fashion show event, but vision of ‘Mexicana’, first catwalk are ‘super’ recent. The first was in the She settled in Manhattan. Fulfilling the
You can realize everything and Victor on April 1, 1979. Hernal without steps, without seats or public. presented in New York, first to create 80’s in a single school (314), and in the desire of being in the center of fashion
is lost when you are interviewing a studied visual communication, which The a fashion parede in an empty hall. the typical costumes of the national 90 came just 4 more degrees. Of the intelligentsia in New York. Dreams made
designer and the answer is -I don’t do is interesting because it is seen in the But 2 million people took notice of what states, first designer to write a book of 2ooo to here, there are no postgraduate true only for few Mexicans like Seco or
fashion, I am doing philosophy-, and generous use of materials with graphics, was going on there ... through youtube. the Mexican fashion history, - according studies, there is no deeper investigation, Alfaro, just like those who have even
then you turn to see the garments and when most of the time the ‘high Mexican The world’s first exclusively digital to photos in the agn most likely the without research no more can be done’... established stores there like Pineda
are just basic blue sweaters. fashion’ is one of raw linen, being that fashion platform: google + Fashion, pioneer in modeling agencies in the tanya MélenDez on Mextilo the FilM Covalin, Hernández and Méndez.
Mexico is a country of prints and color. was the invention of anna Fusoni and country - first to think of the Mexican
Then, they quote the commonplace of Mike alva Google’s Marketing Director pink. And for all that he has to be: A fashion brand does not consist of Her position allows us to imagine what we
Barthes & ‘The System of Fashion’, a They mention in an interview: ‘We in Mx. Starting in 2O12, the project had the Father oF MexiCan Fashion. making clothes, it is about constructing all can achieve. A vocation to teach.
semiotics book that does not apply to believe that we are falling into a only 5 editions, about 100 runways, an imaginary, and that is made from Curating exhibitions many times deals
any fashion process - so you get it: serious error, there is an obsession for followed by hangouts to comment and Obscure designers of which only a perfume, lenses, accessories. But when with the past but education always deals
- it’s a sCaM!!!!!. wanting to repeat country schemes make room for criticism. But a series of partial memory remained are called to brands really succeed, they begin to with another time: with the future. ;)
448 449
page 381 Her work with Boutique, the first time But are successive steps, in the magazine Then we realize that the schools gave He has created as much the concept, as page 387
fashion came to a contemporary art to promote, in the contest to open expensive bachelor degrees but hardly the photo and the video for perfumes
a n a e l e n a M a l l e t museum of in Mexico. And in 2o17 the doors. But then, this required a diagnosis educate in the reality of the market, Azzaro, kenzo, jean paul gaultier or In 2017 a brand like pineDa
retrospective of the first decade of the of what were the problems of the young just technical aspects that little conform Ines de la Fressange. In the newspaper Covalín has 74,ooo followers on
Reading the list of all the fashion trista brand. Mexican brands? Of course one is to the actual market experience. La Tribune, Michel Mallard Studio facebook and 26,ooo likes on Instagram.
exhibitions that have been in Mexico production tied to marketing in a vicious conceived a luxury supplement la A successful Mexican brand. Since 1996,
(348) we should be ashamed, because it From this limited universe of what circle. To fight it, MexiCouture was born. To understand the Mexican consumer. triBune & Moi, proposing the layout Cristina pineDa and riCarDo Covalín
fits on a single page. The spaces of the has been the expositive experience of To fully enter the world of digital design, and making its first covers established in their own words: ‘A cultural
‘official culture’ have been skeptical of fashion in Mx., the most interesting and The future of fashion not only in commerce. To understand the need with portraits of characters from karl pursuit rather than a fashion brand’.
fashion, considering it frivolous, even in even transcendent samples are of her Mexico, but in the world, goes through of social networks - in which Sara is lagerFelD to Carla Bruni.
2oo7 the director of the Mega-library authorship. e-commerce. This is a platform that more than expert -. To be able to The idea of printed fabrics in other
Vasconcelos was sacked for the ‘crime’ of seeks to promote high-end products achieve production in scale. This are So, if Mallard does artistic direction, countries has allowed to construct
having allowed a fashion shooting in his Once Fusoni worked in the Vreeland of Mexican designers through the all the goals that Galindo and her advertising creation, graphic design, concepts such as Marimekko, here the
facilities. Another ‘controlled’ scandal Vogue, and Diana did the fashion show internet and to gather specialized projects are trying to achieve. And exhibitions, photography - of all silk prints inspired by the ethnicities,
is the destruction of the Ex-convento de area of the Met where Harold Koda, curators of the products for sale, believe me, this girl gets things done!. kinds, portrait, fashion - creation of traditions and cultural icons of Mexico,
la Merced, for a sexennial project that it or later Andrew Bolton were the constantly looking for what is being audiovisual contents. In the end what allowed pineDa Covalín to construct
was not accomplished: el Museo De la curators. In Mexico, Mallet has to be produced with high handcraft level in page 385 is he? - The obvious answer is Creative a total brand imagery: scarves, ties,
inDuMentaria y la MoDa. the equivalent of those functions in our the country, and further to educate Director, but he defined it best, in an dresses, shoes, handbags, huipiles,
Thus, in the book ‘exhiBiting Fashion BeFore small fashion universe. :) the buyer about all the advantages M i C h e l M a l l a r D interview when asked to describe what ponchos, glasses, a pet: Xico.
anD aFter 1971’, Amy de la Haye presents in of buying Mexican products. he is actually engaged in, he replied: And collaborations with designers as
252 pages a history of fashion exhibitions in In the year 2oo5, the Centro de la If we speak of a few degrees of Creative trouBleMaker. MaCario jiMénez and los vlaDiMiroviCh
the Saxon world. And in that perspective Imagen made a festival of photography, - ‘I do not want to die before I see the separation between us and the real world With a multitude of branches in Mexico,
we realize that fashion and museums, are in FotoseptieMBre. Sometimes it was names of our designers sounding in New of fashion, perhaps the Mexican, closer His fields of work intersect because the at certain moment a shop in NY, and
the world a marriage of money. The budget thematic, and so with the name of York and Paris’, she says in an interview to the sancta sanctorum of the fashion concepts he creates, embodied in images presence in dozens of countries, they are
of the Ministry of Culture / Conaculta, traMa y estilo, focused on the world of and it is a legitimate concern, that we all world: the French one, is Mr. Mallard. basically share the same fundamentals - the example of a Mexican firm that can
annually rounds the $ 5,343,000,000 fashion through the image. share: this book is 500 pages of fashion composition, hierarchy, structure, color establish mass production and become a
MXN that amount are approx. $ history and there is still no Mexican In 2o14 he edited a coffee table book ... What is necessary to think visually profitable business and a brand known
286 million of dollars, for the whole Michel Mallard (384), made a series of name equivalent to the world as the ones with the entire history of the brand: and give output to creation. all over the world.
culture, in the whole country: Mexico. events related to fashion. In that frame of Yamamoto-Japan / Balenciaga-Spain louis vuitton Fashion photography.
Ana Elena Mallet, Alfonso Morales and / Chanel-France ... / ¿?¿? - Mexico :( It was launched with an exhibition in In 2oo5 he was curator of FotoseptieMBre They are not the only ones, in the
The NY MET operates ‘just’ with I, Gustavo Prado we did an art show of Singapore, also curated by him. and since then he occasionally returns sense that in the second decade of the
$332 million dlls. a year. And of that photography and fashion, by the name To achieve success abroad, begins to Mexico, when his creative projects twenty-first century, fashion businesses
more than half comes from its fashion ... Mextilo. (From there came the name, with getting first a domestic market. His editorial activity is impressive and can bring him here. Although living in Paris are growing or consolidating in Mexico.
exhibitions, which are ‘blockbusters’ of the film and of this book, although And so in 2017 along with her partner be read as a Who’s Who of contemporary for many years, his parents still live in To have some measure of its penetration
that attract millions of viewers and that exhibition was something else ...). johann Mergenthaler, Sara was fashion. Of his authorship as curator- Mexico. His father Ernesto Mallard, in the market, maybe an indicator could
become ‘conversation pieces’ from the given the task of creating a new publisher, the 3 books of Jean Baptiste is an Op / Kinetic artist and with his be presence in social networks ...
Met gala, to the catalogs and the Mallet has managed to invite us in the platform Designing MexiCo 32 DMx32. Mondino, the one of Steven Meisel, example he had the learning that was (facebook = fb, instagram = ig)
annual exhibition. world of fashion through his work. And among others. He has organized and determinant in his further career. So we have that:
she has many more things to show yet... If in CDMx we are living the moment of curated exhibitions by Nick Knight, Guy
In 2016 an exhibition of Ana Elena: :D the catwalks in changing venues during Bourdin, Saul Leiter, Melvin Sokolsky. Mallard always has interesting, LOB 5oo,ooo fb + 49,ooo ig |
the art oF Clothing anD Fashion in the fashion week, this project takes the innovative, fresh and relevant jobs and Julio 316,ooo fb + 567o ig |
MexiCo 1940-2015 in the Palacio de page 382 concept to the extreme, changing form He has been in charge of the artistic solutions. Ivonne 325,ooo fb +63o3 ig |
Iturbide of Banamex attracted hundreds State to State in each presentation. direction of jalouse, Marie Claire Japan
of thousands of spectators. We can see To fulfill the goal of carrying this & Blast magazines. And particularly How he does it? -his secret: Brands that should be the answer to fast-
that their curatorial interests are not s a r a g a l i n D o fashion project to the 32 states oF Mx. l’oFFiCiel and vogue hoMMes - Keeping your eyes always open to new fashion, but from Mx and focused on
only personal whims, but the Mallet international. perspectives and appreciating the past. markets of middle age and income. And
understands the zeitgeist surrounding, For 12 years she was in charge Not only presenting catwalks, but 3:) they have taken the ‘design strategy’ to
local level, international level. The way of the elle magazine, but it was not everything that surrounds the culture From 1998 to 2o13 he was Artistic grow their market.
in which designs and in particular fashion only the editorial experience: you of fashion: exhibitions, conferences, Director of the hyères international
are the point of intersection between have to spin thinner. Closely, almost the concept of fashion photography, Festival oF MoDe et De photographie, To give some perspective:
high culture and popular culture. anyone can be in front of a magazine, the experience of the fashion film. And the encounter & meeting that presents
but using a platform like this, to also always seeking to summon local the most interesting, challenging and Yakampot 9,857 fb + 12, ooo ig |
rosa MexiCano, Fashion anD iDentity: promote not the usual brands but the talent to show in their place of origin to propositive new creators of fashion Trista 14,351 fb + 23,ooo ig |
the look oF tWo generations in 2oo9 work of Mexican designers and brands further project them to national arena. and photography. Names like Alaïa, Malafacha 15,ooofb + 8,145 ig |
in the Casa del Lago, was the first time speaks of a peculiar vocation that she Dries van Noten, Yamamoto or William
the world of Valdiosera was united with reinforced with the projects following. There are more than enough vocations in Klein and Oliverio Toscani are normal Where we see that even when the
the one of contemporary designers like fashion, but when you understand that presences at that festival. Right there, brands of ‘author’s fashion’ are covered
trista and MalaFaCha. It was a year of elle MexiCo Designs, a fashion thousands of fashion students graduate also in Hyères, our muse Diane pernet by the editorials, walking the platforms
interviews with the Maestro. design reality-show, in some edition in Mx a year, and that most of them soon was talent scout of 2oo2-2011. and catwalks, still have a lot to build in
catapulted a star like kris goyri. will drop or very few will make a career. terms of positioning ...
450 451
Compared with the idea of scale of the problems of geometric forms to push the Josa studied Industrial Engineering, was the stories of different neighborhoods where they worked: yakaMpot. In ulibarri.com/collections/leonora we
world brands, they leave us cold: garments into architectural construction born on April 5, 1979. And Giovanni of Mx. And at the same time seeks to Maya Tzotzil it means ‘the plaCe Where see something new: the possibility that
metaphors. was in architecture and born on March represent the Mexican art, the culture, Water is Born’. We decided to call it that even when it is a collection of high rank,
aMeriCan eagle Mx 27, 1978. They met in Casa De FranCia talent and spirit of our country. because we wanted a name that was everything is available to buy online.
11,500, ooo fb + oo8, ooo ig | Cynthia Büttenklepper (4o2). A fashion school at the time it was a little world in both indigenous and Mexican. But one,
Forever21 Mx designer from Ensenada, Baja California. which people like Alejandra Quesada or In order for something to last, it has to that both in sound and graphism could That is the sign of the times. And fashion
13,8oo, ooo fb + 12,7oo, ooo ig | Going from Mty to Barcelona, actually Temores were there. go under many transformations. be a name positioned around the world. in Mx in 2o17 is still in transition so you
CyaMoDa C & a Mx she started her design work while can choose between two paths: if you
8,9oo,ooo fb + 142, ooo ig | working in Istanbul. In 2010 she returned The brand was the winner of vogue’s Thats the secret of trista: the possibility Cancino comments: ‘Our clothes are put a store / showroom - with a killer
to Mexico and created her own line Who’s next in 2015. Already by that of not being a single solution but many, made in communion with Mexican rent - or if you just choose to leave the
of clothing, appearing in IDM in SS12. time, the sophisticated language of all under the same name. Diversifying in artisans in different parts of the country. bricks down and go direct for the clicks.
Starting from few silhouettes and sober Trista creations was developed. From branches like trista hoMMes that exists We rebuilt indigenous patterns to bring
colors, she creates collections with the their earliest collections with titles such since 2o15. As with tristan unD isolDa, a them to the current fashion. yakaMpot One of the proposals to follow is that of
adjective of great quality craftsmanship in as ‘Pavlov’s Dog’ or inspiration like the firm of wedding dresses where two super woman is multicultural, I can imagine Andrés Catalina and Vil Vegas: the pay’s
the finishes, producing limited editions. works of the blind photographer Evgen powers of Mexican fashion join: her in Coyoacan but also traveling in brand since 2o15. Knitted fabrics with
page 388 Bavcar, they walked down another path. josa silva and FranCisCo CanCino. Paris. We have everything in Mexico, it complicated and nowadays drawings.
kris goyri (4o3) With a fashion masters is very important to put high the name In the beginning could have been the
The modern world becomes in Barcelona, in 2008 he was the winner From aliCia ... to trista, to siMple of our country’. ideal clothes to attend a music festival
eclectic for fashion. Brands coming of ELLE Mexico Diseña. Almost ten By trista. It is the outline of how a page 399 yakaMpot dreams of being an or to be in a trendy party. But thanks
from the nineties like Macario (344, years since, in which he has shaped brand finds a market first by trying to internationally recognized Mexican brand. to his extraordinary social network
345), coexist with the brands from quality, design, aesthetics and concept in create niches of super luxury, and then FranCisCo CanCino was born on December management, became a favorite among
the counterculture like Malafacha, silhouettes and ultra feminine materials lower them to a more landed creation tristan anD isolDa began in 3, 1984 in Tuxtla Gutierrez, Chiapas. university students of any level. An
the Mexican notes of Yakampot, to within a conservative elegance. Has a acording to the reality of mexican 2016 when both trista and yakaMpot He graduated from jannette klein. intelligent brand that caters design to
imagery based on digital cultures and showroom at Emerson 251, Polanco. fashion environment. realized that they get orders of wedding a niche that is there: the urban youth
e-commerce as Pay’s. dresses that had to fulfill each by its who need more cutting-edge, more
alFreDo Martinez (4o4) Originally Giovanni says that ‘...in a book by own. By being together they could have fun clothing. Uncharted territory
In the Harper’s Bazaar anniversary from Guadalajara, he studied fashion Fernando Pessoa I stumbled upon the the necessary infrastructure to launch where, in all this time, the only flag was
generation portrait we see today and also was at ELLE Mexico Diseña, in word ‘Triste’ -sad-. I turn to Josa and two collections and understand the MalaFaCha’s.
designers closing this tale -2017. 2o11. His collections are characterized say ‘trista’. Pum! It clicked on us in ‘fiancées’. The brand wants to be able
by mixtures of materials in unusual two seconds. We understood that it was to bring to reality, the dream of the rite, Understanding electronic commerce
alejanDro Carlín (397). He made his contrasts, which bring it closer to a a word that had a clear, sophisticated the expectation of the ceremony: you can make proposals like this, without
career in Monterrey with the brand pictorial experience. He was selected as personality ... ‘ ‘The wedding dress, therefore, is spending on the useless mirage of the
‘lola De alejanDro’, having studied at guest designer for the loB brand, one exciting. Its design translates to dream, store in Polanco. And reaching the 32
Marangoni and St. Martins. He was born of the most positioned in the country. What trista wants to make a feeling a mixture of the past and the future. For page 410 states of the country immediately. pay’s
on February 14, 1979. Then launched tangible through clothing. Which is us is exciting and it is really a challenge is the example of the future fashion
a premium brand in 2011 with his name. sanDra Weil (4o7) She specialized evidenced from the literary reference, to be able to interpret those dreams into world that is to come in Mexico. But
He sells on Saks Fifth Avenue, in his in Fashion and Haute Couture in the textile experimentation, but more a garment that will be part of one of the alexia uliBarri (4o6) was born they are not the only ones....
Goldsmith 38 Polanco showroom and Barcelona. Sandra Weil Couture was than anything, the coherence in the most important events in a person’s life’- in San Luis Potosí in 1985. Looking to
on the MexiCouture platform. founded in Mexico in 2008 with a vision moment of creating a certain clothing comment the designers. satisfy her vocation went to London and tony DelFino comes from a completely
to create the highest quality, unique and and environment, which becomes an studied fashion in 2oo3. And returned to different place: the urban graffiti,
ManCanDy (4oo). Andrés Jiménez timeless attire. She makes a line of ready integral part of the design process. There are different territories in fashion Mx to make a brand to answer the needs drawings and city interventions.
singing in the middle of his catwalk is to wear, another of high range and also Precisely for that reason on their design, like the bride gowns and all the of today’s woman. In 2oo9 she presented And with that, the exact same spirit
a break we should thank, in a fashion brides. Has a showroom in Polanco in anniversary they presented an exhibition other dresses marking the beat of the her first collection ‘Dark Romance’ and becomes a streetwear creator. At the
medium so correct that we live in Emilio Castelar 185. curated by Ana Elena Mallet with the rites of passage: quinceañeras, proms, from then on she has made a career in front is ‘sMithe’, inspired by popular
perpetual yawn. Originally from title: trista ten years oF telling stories. presentations. But the challenge is to catwalks where she always tells a story culture to create retro-touches, here
Cuernavaca, Morelos and working as be able to overcome the common places through the collection. you can find t-shirts, bomber jackets,
professional photographer, he came Over time the pair separated and thus, and be able to do something with those hoodies, caps, pins.
to CDMx to establish his brand in 2oo7 Josa remained in charge of trista. And categories that allow complex solutions Since choosing the title: astris, It might seem like a secret brand
when he was 23 years old. -Andrés born Giovanni in charge of siMple. This gave in design problems. In this same category Florilegia, ana anD gertruDis, DreaM compared to any of the others I’ve
11/25/1984- Asimmetria, grafismo and way to multiple collaborations with falls the children’s clothing. oF a square, Chatelet, Daphne’s tale reviewed here. But with 3o,ooo fb
irreverent mixture of materials in his other authors and partners to create and siMona... Names and narratives that + 26,ooo ig we realize that these
collections. He defines his style: ‘The page 391 other discourses. Thing that had always A few years earlier, in 2o12 there was a look very nineteenth century but are ‘seemingly’ avant-garde niche brands,
street style of real Mexicans, the one happened since they had Esteban Sanín, lovely brand of clothing for the little solved in very 21st century avant-garde understood much better the idea of the
that I see in the subway and downtown’. aliCia MeloDiosa ... was the first Gustavo Garcia Villa, or even the ones: arroz Con leChe. By the time it collections, with materials combined in market, and to a large extent do not
name by which josa silva and giovanni flock of young trainees, bringing their was ten years in 2o12, they thought the surprising uses. even come from studying fashion or the
Cihuah (4o1). Vanessa Guckel is a estraDa intended to create a super luxury perspectives to the processes. best way to celebrate it was to scale it. traditional idea of fashion...
French architect who in 2o12 opened her brand for the most exclusive Mexican In her collection leonora PV 2o17 (4o8- Drawing in the margins of the official
brand in Mexico, which means ‘women’ consumer. They did not succeed. But In 2012 Josa happily teamed up with Then the partners ConCepCión 4o9) she reaches a mature language in fashion, from rosa pistola, into 12CreW
in Nahuatl. Her trademark is the use in the end they did trista, who in 2017 Natalia Ferriz to create ChilDren oF our orvañanos and FranCisCo CanCino design, risky, jovial, purposeful and with and CítriCo MoDa, designers find a
of black and white in constructive turns 10 years of existence ... toWn. Through the collections it tells took the name of a place in Chiapas sense of humor. But also at http://alexia- streetwear starved audiencer.
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page 412 The escape of the Labyrinth of Solitude I’m not gay and I like basketball and that whole months specializing in a future You are so important to so many people, salDaña and who surely where so lazy
of the twenty-first century for Mexican seems to have nothing to do with you, together, I went to gym a couple of I was trying to realize how you were able to google sergio alCalá a couple of
Like Tony Delfino, perhaps the most fashion goes through the search for so I guess it’s going to be very difficult times and I went on diet almost for two to move the world and my heart. minutes ago, I got tired of their disguises.
‘unknown’ fashion brand is MerCaDoraMa the vanguard of Pay’s and CroM. To for you to remember me. However, I weeks straight, all because I wanted to I was tired of never having a budget, that
of ahMeD Bautista. They make official understand e-commerce as they do in wanted to write you this, since weeks explain to people how incredible you Honestly, I do not know what everything is ‘in exchange’ and that the
ago, but I assumed you were very busy were. happened, I do not want to blame you little things that generates cash flow,
clothes of singers and bands. (But on CoMpra MoDa naCional, MerCaDoraMa
with ‘Fashion Week’ and all that mess, for everything, a relationship is two -in are poorly made or a copy, quality will
a large scale). To sell all, they created and MexiCouture. It goes through the so I preferred to wait. At that point and without realizing it, I most cases- and I’m not perfect, but I’m never change if no one invests, but, how
kiChink!. way the MBFW fashion platform adapts was in love with you <3. sure this time it was not my jealousy or do you invest if nobody purchase? And
One day, looking for something that to new scenarios. But it demands that I think we both know that our ‘thing’, is my immaturity that I fucked up, I refuse why buy if there is always something
spoke positively of Mx, Ahmed and for an increasingly diverse Mexico, our not going well, I do not want to sound I changed my city thinking that here to think that everything is over, but Jose cheaper and better in Zara or H&M
anuar layón invented ‘MexiCo is the fashion respond to those differences with like a psychopath stalking you, but yes. in guaDalajara ‘Capital oF Fashion’ Jose already said it in one of his best songs, and suddenly this formula is repeated to
shit’ bomber jacket (427). The success products for hundreds of niche markets. I do not know, I think that lately we everything would be better, I was more ‘porque nada es para siempre y hasta la infinity.
that followed demonstrates that the fight a lot and the truth is every time I excited with you than ever, I left my belleza cansa, ¡el amor acaba!!’ (‘cause
future of fashion in Mx does not pass Initiatives like Dmx32 seek to bring understand you less. We have drifted family and friends thinking that in this nothing is forever and beauty ends being I do not know if I am exaggerating,
through evening dresses, but in the line fashion to many territories. away and that is not a good sign. I know new city we would have many things to boring’). So, or I am a coward and I can but I think that someone has to make a
drawn by: We can no longer waste time, we need that in such situations it is not good to do. The space and the people seemed to not stand you, or your beauty tired me. :( decision and apparently I will have to be
remember, but sometimes it is impossible be very well, it seemed that here they the one, because - as always - you never
soCial netWorks + e-CoMMerCe + DesiraBle fashionable business that lasts more than
for me to forget all the good things would take us seriously. I will not deny I’m going to opt for the second one say anything, and I will quote ‘Anna
proDuCt + inFluenCers + proDuCtion in ten years, that surpasses its creators’ life we spent together and how somehow it, here in Guadalajara is where I have - because I have not had a date for Fusoni’ because I feel like it:
sCale. and that identifies Mx in the world. Let’s everything went to hell. spent the best days with you, but also months with anyone and that more ‘Fashion suffers from the ostrich
(But this is not taught in fashion schools. start with that: the worst. than making me a coward, it makes me phenomenon: she believes that hiding
It’s URGENT to forget this degrees At last we, the 120 million Mexicans dress Believe it or not, we met when I was still a loser and I do not want to leave you the head will solve all problems. We
as ‘female careers’ - where they only daily! in college and although from years ago I I went to New York expecting to know that impression of me - I got tired of must face, accept and correct’.
teach corny crafts - and transform it into And we must use and promote our fantasized about you watching ‘FTV’, my the rest of you, certainly one of the trips everything, I got tired of those who only And that I will do, to accept that this
careers in real Design and marketing). national fashion. O.ob head and heart were elsewhere and the of my life. I learned a lot, I could see you see you as a bad business, I got tired of is not going well, I do not want to hurt
truth is that if not for this pair of courses with other eyes, it was not about judging the “important” people of the city who ourselves more and I do not deny that
If someone has set the example of how Octavio Paz said: ‘A society is defined in textiles and accessories would never or comparing, but understanding you. I just want to go to your parties, I got from time to time we can have some
to open new roads, these are axel not only by its attitude towards the ever have known you. I still remember wanted you to learn a lot and be proud tired of “fashion entrepreneurs” who do occasional sex with any of the collections
the first time we were together on a of what you were. not pay their suppliers and who ask to of MalaFaCha or trista, - even with
esCalante and oMarov aguilar. future but to the past: its memories
catwalk, ‘huiChol galáCtiCo pop’ by My heart was still with you, although “copy” the designs from other parts of one of stres- but for now I think we
They founded CroM, a magazine that are no less relevant than its projects. sergio alCalá, -Really queen? ‘Huichol honestly I met one of your cousins in the world to their in-house designers, I should give ourselves some time, I do
has no texts, in fact they define it as a Although Mexicans are concerned - or Galactico Pop’!! well, I was just trying Soho and I liked her very much and we got tired of the 3-month-old bloggers not want to offend you but I think you
‘printed social network’. But not only rather obsessed - about our past, we to figure out what was going on, but I kissed each other without thinking. who just want the registration to enter a are eternally in PMS, and really I can’t
it is a magazine, it is a platform where have no clear idea of what we have been. really did not understand; My hands You know, things that men do, we were platform that supports the “local scene” stand it. .
photographers, designers and brands can And what is more serious: we do not were sweating, I was intrigued to see drunk, does not count, for me you were but does not pay their photographers
risk a little by expanding the limits of want to have it. We live between myth people shaking their heads like in tennis, still the person, thing or whatever most and / or uses an image of a campaign Maybe we can be friends, but that does
what little we allow ourselves to explore and denial, we deify certain periods, we - although I have never been to tennis - important in all my life. bought in a bank of images for 3 dollars. not mean we can not go alone anywhere,
in our ultra-conservative fashion medium. forget others ... and to be able to draw conclusions I chose I got tired of public relations, I got tired I know it does not look like it, but I’m
to see those who, according to me, knew Yes, I know, I lost my head, you were of the invitations and plane tickets paid very angry with this, it seems unfair to
They also organize parties, make For us who love Mexico through its design more. Until that moment everything everywhere, on the street, on the for people to speak well of you without me how you’ve behaved with me these
was a first idealization and although it television, in my talks, in my books, really deserving it. past years and after the elle MexiCo
concerts, and are happy to bring anyone and its fashion, let us use the memories of
was Sergio Alcalá, everything was fine, in other women that interested me, Diseña, I do not even want to talk. Since
from around the world using their Mextilo - and let’s not forget - to be able photos, models, music, clothes, smells, in my friends, in all my bookmarks on I got tired of school directors who you are in a ‘reality’ I lost all hope of
superpowers given by the internet. (such to live in a better future. : D <3 xxxooo everything. the internet, in my Magazines, in my can not stand criticism, because is recovering you.
as the cover with the model Shaun Ross Right there I realized that even though I work and maybe it was there where the something unnecessary and quite
or the time they gave us Formichetti) page 423 did not know you, I did not understand problems began, not for nothing they possibly a detonator of school dropouts Anyway, I’m going to delete you from
very well and you had no idea who I was, say that one should not put business and and if that happens, who pays? Where Facebook and stop following your
They have shop / promote fashion brands I wanted to be with you. pleasure together and I did it. Thanks is the business? How can they go to Twitter, but I’ll leave your number just
/ - in the Mbfw16, they presented a hoW My love For Fashion enDeD to this - the work - I could be in a place New York and kiss with your cousins if for ‘emergencies’ you never know when,
a personal narrative oF hoW it all Went I’ve always considered myself a lucky that I enjoy a lot, one where I could talk it is not this way? I got tired of school things like ‘WolF in sheepskin’ can return
collective of creators:
to hell By Javier Herrera on 04/14/2014 | guy and thanks to you, my life and my about you and also they paid me, - very managers without vision, worried about the urge to throw you in my bed and
MyQ (362-366), ApparelK, RTD-Ready @ 9 minutes, 34 seconds career changed and suddenly without little but well, that’s not your fault, it’s how to please everyone, the student, make love to you.
to die- (419), Rcl,
thinking we were living together, - in my PRI’s fault. the teacher, the administrators, for Seriously, I hope you understand me, be
Bmc (Black Market Cult) and Maniphest Hello Mexican Fashion! head I stole you on horseback like in the what? - To buy Mercedes Benz vans. I happy, but above all, grow up.
which are two brands of Gdl. In the old days - I was convinced that we were There I understood that in your case, got tired of school directors who do not
magazine pages we see brands from How are you? Everything is fine, never been so far and that we could money has nothing to do with talent, but talk about design, because they have no With love, Javier.
Marika Vera (414) - author’s lingerie I do not think you remember me very well function as a perfect complement. also that as much as you have, if there fucking idea - sorry mom - of what the PS: Come by your things to my house
/ Mancandy / No Name studio by since my last name is not ‘Galindo’ or I liked to brag about you, to talk to is talent there is nothing, it is not only word actually means, but I got tired of whenever you want, they are already in
Jonathan Morales / to the avant-garde ‘Fusoni’ or anything like that. Moreover, people about you, how I and how little about being weird and exaggerating, your students too, those who claim to a box.
stances of the self-taught Víctor Barragán I do not even work on Colours and the or how much I knew you, I could make gluing things in the Body and ‘parade’ be very much in love with you, who are
in Yinifninfinity (416) and Giuseppe truth, except a couple of things they you better, how I wanted us both, to - like Sergio Alcalá - it is about being passionate about everything - except aBout the author on how I stop loving
do with the Mutek Festival, the rest of grow older together, to have children different for real, it is about thinking, sewing - who dream of being lagerFelD,
Ayanegui in Ayaneguibrand. fashion: Javier Herrera / Famous for his bad
what they do, does not matter to me. and then Mercedes Benz gave us a Van reading, and reflecting on how? And ForD or gaultier but have no idea who
The first with 25 years and the second jokes, Founder @welovecorner and Editor
And to make it all harder, I’m brown, for free, I cared so much that I spent the Why? are giovanni estraDa or FranCisCo
born on 12/24/94 with 23 years. @bldrmx
454 455
Í N D I C E D F
Faesler Cristina 338, 339, 340, 341
G
Galindo Sara 382, 383, 421,
H
Habsburgo Carlota Amalia de
Davis Bette 134, 135 Fantasía Mexicana 207 423 127, 134, 138
De Anda Héctor 316, 317 Farthingale 72 Galli Boadella Montserrat 87 Habsburgo Maximiliano de127,
DE LA RIVA MALENA 342, 352, 354 Fashion Institute of Technology Galván Mariano 127, 131-133 135, 136, 138, 141, 143, 240
De Lille Pedro 234 326, 378 Gálvez Alvaro 234 HALSTON 280
Del Río Dolores 1, 198, 207, Fashion Week 342, 377, 421 Gama Federico 15, 16, 18, 19, Harper’s Bazaar Mx 351, 352-
@ C
Arellano César 360 Chupa 81 220, 222, 223, 240, 244, 265 Fast Fashion 23 62, 63, 248, 251-254 356, 388, 394-397, 400-407
Arias Huerta Josephus 99 CHÁVEZ JULIO 266, 267, 303-307, DEMICHELIS CARLO 317 Félix María 245, 246, 247 Gámez Valerio 61 HEAD EDITH 247
.modales 338 Armella de Aspe Virginia 126, 127 C&A Mx 387 308, 336 DEMICHELIS KEKO 317, 352, 354 Félix Sofía 368, 369 Garcés Luis 129 Hermanos Mayo 231
‘9’ El 314, 318 Armendáriz Pedro 198 Caballero Antonio 226, 240, 241, 242 CIHUAH 388, 401 DEMICHELIS PIERO 317 Félix Vera 368 Garcés Mauricio 271, 280, 288 HERNAL VÍCTOR 370
12CREW 410 ARROZ CON LECHE 399 Cabrera Miguel 83 CÍTRICO MODA 410 De Montijo Eugenia 134 Fernando VII 69, 71 García Cubas Antonio 30, 64, HERNÁNDEZ ERNESTO 334, 335
‘68 23, 284 Art Decó 212, 299 Cactli 34 Clark 224 DE NORIEGA RODRIGO 30, 31 FERNÁNDEZ CARLA 23, 36, 37, 66, 69, 70, 71 HERNÁNDEZ PAOLA 360, 363, 378
3000 años de moda mexicana 42, Artes de México 56, 80, 81 Caifanes 248, 249 Clausell María Amparo 138, 139, 141
DFASHION 421 38, 39, 41, 326, 342, 368 García Héctor 226 HERNÁNDEZ SALVADOR 386
ASPASIA 310 Calderón de la Barca Marquesa 98, Clemente Max 286, 310
43, 44, 45 DÍAS DE MODA 342, 421 Fernández de Lizardi José García Miguel 310, 320 Herrera Javier 423-426
Asvoff 8 12 104, 105, 106, 113, 130 Click fotógrafo de modelos 286, 288
Díaz del Castillo Bernal 69 Joaquín 93, 97 García Villa Gustavo 391 HERRERA RAMÓN 310, 320
A
Asvoff Mx 13, 348 Calderón de la Barca Ángel 98 Clámide 46, 202
Atlas pintoresco e histórico… 30, Coleto, Cuera 77 Díaz Enrique 200 Fernández Emilio Indio 247 Gazette de bon ton 207 Herrán Saturnino 26, 30
Calendario de las señoritas
64, 66, 70, 71 megicanas 127, 131, 132, 133 Collado Franklin 368, 369 Díaz Porfirio 141, 153, 154 Fernández Ledesma Enrique General Motors 227 Hidalgo Alberto 418, 419,
A-go-go 286 Auditorio Lindbergh 220 Colón Cristóbal 69 Dieterle William 135, 136 141, 144-147 Gibson girl 153 Hidalgo y Costilla Miguel 91, 93
Calendario Galván 127
ABARCA JOSÉ LUIS 333 Austen Jane 82 Cómo deje de amar la moda 423, DIOR CHRISTIAN 42, 50, 258 Fernández Ledesma Gabriel 33- Giovanni María 130 HIGH LIFE 286
Calzado Mexicano 33, 34, 35, 36
ABOUMRAD MÓNICA 310, 324 ÁVALOS IVÁN 420, 421 426
Calzas 77 DISEÑANDO MÉXICO 32 DMX32 35, 36, 141 GIRASOL 286 Hilos de Historia 348
ACA JOE 286 Avándaro ‘71 287, 292 Compra Moda Nacional 412
Achiyotl 48
CANADÁ marca zapatos 286 / 382, 421 FERNÁNDEZ XIMENA 342 GIVENCHY HUBERT DE 280 Historia de la ciudad de Puebla 113
AYANEGUI BRAND 412, 415 Canaive 42 Concursos de Belleza 212
Acuchillado 77 DIY -do it yourself- 287, 291 Ferrezuelo 79 Glantz Margo 317 Historias del Bello Sexo
Conesa María 198, 199, 210
B
CANCINO FRANCISCO 314, 368, 391, DIY 291 FERRIZ NATALIA 391 GÓMEZ CYNTHIA 338, 341, 342, Romanticismo 87
AGUDO NOÉ 316 Contempóraneos, Los 20
396, 398, 399 DOMIT 314 FILA 317 346, 347, 351, 352, 354 Hollywood 220, 234
ÁGUILA DESCALZA (Josefa) 23, 308, Contreras Carlos 286, 303-307
Canedo Hermanos 314
348 COOPERATIVA 244 342 Don Catrín de la Fachenda 93 FIORUCCI 314 González Obregón Luis 93, 94-96 HOMBRE ARROW 218, 220
BAEZA IZET Y HAZEL 334, 335, 342 Cano Mariaud Claudia 338
Aguilar Lupita 280 CORDERA FIORENZA 342 DONELLI 286 Flans 127 GOOGLE + FASHION 374, 377, 421 Homies 248, 255
Baker Josephine 269 CARLÍN ALEJANDRO 368, 388, 397
Aguilar Omarov 412 Cordero Juan 128, 141, 148 Donnadieu Henri 314 Flappers 202, 210 GOYRI KRIS 368, 388, 403 HOPKIN PIXIE 299, 300, 301
Balenciaga Cristóbal 50, 256, 348 Carreón Antonio 113
Aguirre Iván 314, 315, 371-373 Cordry Donald 56 Doña Perfecta 247 Flor Silvestre 247 Grana Cochinilla 48 Huichol 56, 326
Ballets Rusos 207 Carrillo y Gariel Abelardo 58, 64, 82
ALCALÁ SERGIO 363,424, 425 Corona Pascuala 127
BARRAGÁN VÍCTOR 412, 416, 417 Casaca 81, 87 DRAGONETTI GERARDO 280, 351, Flores Iván 119, 361 Grenada Isabel de 310 Huipil 46, 50, 80
Alegría Adolfo Isaac 129 Corpiño 127
ALFARO VÍCTOR 351, 353, 378
Barroco 72 Casa Francia 360 352, 354 FLÖGE EMILIE 153 GRYPHO 342, 352, 356 HULANICKI BARBARA 299
Basurto Luis G. 247 Casaquín 80 Corset 202
ALICIA MELODIOSA 390, 391 Dumas Alejandro 130 FONKY ROPA DE ALIVIANE 197, 290 GUCKEL VANNESA 368, 401 Huertas Felipe 366
BATH LAILA 308 Casasola 157 Cortina del Nopal 326
Allá en el Rancho Grande 220 Cortés Hernán 69, 72 Duncan Isadora 202 Fonssagrives Lisa 271 Güera Rodríguez 93 Humboldt Alexander von 30, 93
BÁTIZ ARABELA 286, 293 Castas 64, 65 Dupont Jean Luc 8, FOREVER21 387 Guerrero Ramón 310, 333 Hyeres festival de 385
Almeida Lourdes 64, 67, 69 Costa Eileen 379
Batoni Pompeo 74 Castelló Yturbide Teresa 114, 126,
AL PUERTO DE LIVERPOOL 260 Fortuny Mariano 202 Guerrero Raúl 357
E I
Bauhaus 20 127, 141 Costumes civils, militaires et
Alva Mike 377, 421 réligieux du Mexique 30 Franco César 333 Guijosa Eduardo 427
BAUTISTA AHMED 412, 427 Castro Casimiro 49, 114, 115, 116,
ÁLVAREZ GENOVEVA 342 Coulors 421 FRATTINA 286 Gurrola Juan José 299
Benítez José R 78, 79, 82, 141 117, 118
ALVIANI ALESSANDRO 342 Covalín Ricardo 387 Edersberg Carl Martin 138 Fuentes de Yazbek Zaida 270, Gusano de seda 72 I-D 317
Bergdorf Goodman 299 Catarina de San Juan 113
AMERICAN EAGLE MX 387 Covarrubias Miguel 50, 52, 53, 54,
Bernhardt Sarah 198 Catrina 152, 153, 155, 156, 158, 159, EDOARDOS CALIFORNIA 314 271,272, 273, 274, 275, 276, GUTIÉRREZ MACARENA 352,354 IBARRA + BERTHOLDO 317
AMIEIRO WANDA 310, 317, 334 55, 90, 154, 196, 204, 207, 208,
AMKIE NATALIE 368
Bertin Rose 82 180 El arte de la Indumentaria y la 277, 278 IBARRA JESÚS 280, 317
Best Maugard Adolfo , 202, 203- Catálogo de prostitutas de 209, 378
Amuzgo Oaxaca 193-195 moda en México 348, 381 FUROR PRODUCTS 314, 325 IDM International Designers
206, 207, 209, 244, 326 Maximiliano 140, 141 Cowboy 114
Anairam 368 Cozéhuatl 34 El bajón y el Delirio 360 Fusoni Anna 310, 318, 320, Mexico 342, 421
BIBA 299 CELANESE 84, 258, 260 El diamante negro de chu-man- 338, 376, 377, 421, 423 Inbursa 126, 127
Andonella 0, guardas, 1, 3, 5,12, 13, Creare 377
Bill el millonario audaz 224 Chal 87
20, 26, 32, 47, 51, 52, 68, 74, 76, Creel Catalina 314 fu 224,226 FUSTENBERG DIANE VON 280 Increíbles los 93
Blitz Magazine 317 CHANEL COCO 202
104, 115, 137, 138, 143, 148, 160- Crespo Cory 421 El hogar revista 221 Futureliners 227 India bonita la 134
Bloomer Amelia 153 Chango García Cabral 50, 201,
e
180, 198, 202, 203, 204, 209, 210, Crom Magazine 412, 413-419 El instructor 127 INDITEX 286
BMC BLACK MARKET CULT 412 207, 211, 212, 213, 215, 216, 217,
214, 219, 225, 232, 233, 234, 239, Cronología de plataformas 421 El iris 127 Indumentaria antigua mexicana
Bo Alessandro 14 326
244, 245, 247, 248, 250, 257, 258, Cronología de museos y moda en
Bob peinado 202, 211, 214, 215 Charro 138 Elle México diseña 382, 426 27, 28, 29, 30, 36
271, 281, 286, 288, 310, 314, 317, Mx 348 Emerich Luis Carlos 317
323, 332, 327, 350, 351, 368, 375,
Bolívar Simón 69, 93 CHATILLÓN HENRI DE 30, 234, 239, El libro de la Moda en Méx 332-337 Indumentaria indígena 41
Borbolla José Manuel 368 240, 241, 242, 258, 265, 269, 326, Crosby Dan 394-397, 400-407 Emos 357
387, 389, 390, 432 El libro de Satanás 129 Instituto Mexicano de la Moda 333
Borja Martínez Ignacio 127 332 CRUZ CHRIS 23, 24 Enamorada 247
Ángel Abraham 207 El manual de la diseñadora INTERMODA 377
BOSS HUGO 333 Che Guevara 23 Cruz Giancarlo 358, 359 Erskine Inglis Frances 98
Angel Face de Pond’s 272, 273 Cruz Tamara 342 descalza 36, 37 Intimidad moda y diseño,
Boutique 342, 343-347, 348, 351, CHILDREN OF OUR TOWN 391 Escalante Axel 358, 412
Apocalipto 256 Crónicas de México 247 El Mosaico mexicano 127 México entrañable 138, 139
APPARELK 412
381 Chinacos 134 ESPINOSA BERTHOLDO 317
Bracero 248 Chinanteca Veracruz 193-195 Cueitl 46 El Museo Mexicano 127 Iribe Paul 207
ARBITER 317 Espinosa Diego 12
Briseño Juan 310 China Poblana 98, 110, 111, 112, 113, Cuello de pajarita 220 El rey del barrio 248 Iturbide Agustín de, Emperador
Archivo Díaz 200, 227, 232-233 ESTRADA GIOVANNI 368, 391, 395
BUSTANI SARAH 314, 334, 336, 352, 114, 115, 193-195, 207 Cuevas José Luis 286 El traje y el adorno en México 92, 93
Archivo General de la Nación 200, CUEVAS RAFAEL 368, 369 Estridentismo 20
354 Chinos 110, 114 78, 79, 82 Iturbide Ana María de, 93, 99
226, 227, 228, 229, 231, 232-233, Cukor George 220 Excélsior 244, 259, 260, 263,
285, 287
BÜTTENKLEPPER CYNTHIA 368, 388, Chlamys 46, 202 El vestido en la nueva españa IVONNE 387
402 Cholos 61, 248 Currutacas 93, 94, 95, 96 265, 269
58, 64, 82 IZZO TAO (ITZO) 258, 269
456 457
J
JAFFE JANA 310
L
La caravana del progreso 227,
M 368, 373, 421
Método de dibujo, tradición y
surgimiento del arte mexicano
N P
Pachuco 248, 249
R
Racinet Auguste 30
S
SACRIFICE 23
Jannette Klein Universidad 314, 232, 233 M. del Castillo Florencio 114 181-191, 202, 203 Nájera Germán 119, 361 PALACIO DE HIERRO 153, 155, RAMOS ARTURO 280 Sahagún Fray Bernardino de
315, 332, 333, 334, 336, 337, La colmena 127 Maceda Julián 310 México a Través de los siglos 6, Nao de China 72, 114 220, 256, 265, 268, 271, 280, RANK JOSEPH JOE 286 34, 48
354, 355, 370, 399 La encuerada de Avándaro 287, Macehuales 34 12, 25, 57, 59, 85, 90, 91 Napoleón 87 287, 295, 296, 299, 317 RCL 412 SAINT LAURENT YVES 256
J C Leyendecker 218, 220 289, 292, 293 Madame Virginia modista Mexico is the Shit 412, 427 Napoleón III 134 PANAM 286 READY TO DIE RTD 412, 419 SAKS 299
JIMÉNEZ ANDRÉS 368 Lagartijo 93, 94, 95, 96, 114 1840’s 127 Mexico South, the Isthmus… Navarro Desirée 314, 332-337, Paquita 234, 235-238 Rebozo 80, 113, 119-125 Salas Mike 360
JIMÉNEZ MACARIO 342, 344, La Gracia de los retratos Mafud Armando 280, 333 50, 207 368 PARANOIA BOUTIQUE 286, 293 Rebozo del origen uso y belleza SALDAÑA DANIELA 314
345, 351, 352, 354, 387, 388, antiguos 141, 144, 145, 146, 147 Malafacha 248, 250, 314, 360, México y sus alrededores 49, Navarro Rodrigo 367 PARIÁN EL 72, 130, 134 del trage propio 114, 120, 121, SALDAÑA FRANCISCO 370
421 La historia de la moda en 370, 371-374, 381, 387, 388, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118 Nebel Carl 30, 106, 107, 108, Parque México 220 122, 125 Salón Boutique 377, 421
JOSEFA (IBARRA) - GRAN JOSEFA México 332 389, 410, 426 Mexicouture 382, 412 109, 110 Patiño Adolfo 111, 112, 308, Reforma moda 368, 369 SALÓN INTERNACIONAL PALACIO
23, 308, 348 La historia de México a través Mallard Michel 348, 381, 384, Mextilo the film 12, 226, 299, Neiman Marcus 240, 299 309, 328, 329, Reinhardt Ad 326, 327 DE HIERRO 258, 271, 280, 287,
Journal de Madame Giovanni 130 de la Indumentaria 126, 127 385 326, 363 Neo-Azteca 153 Patiño Jose Andrés 377, 421 RENTERÍA MARTÍN 338 308, 317
Journey to fear 1, 220, 223 La litografía en México 123, 124 Mallet Ana Elena 342- 347, Meyer Pedro 420, 421, 431 Neo-mexicanismo 326 PAVIGNANI MARÍA 258, 269 Retrato de familia, la nación SÁNCHEZ BLANCA ESTELA 280,
Juan Diego 61 La Merced 134 348, 349, 351, 381 MIJANGOS HÉCTOR 351, 352, 354 New Balance 326 Pavlova Anna 207 mexicana 64, 67 333, 352,354
Gabriel Juan 298, 308 La moda elegante 149-153 Mancandy 360, 388, 400, 415 Milagro mexicano 256 Noiselab 351 PAY’S 388, 389, 410, 411, 412 Revista Activa 308 SÁNCHEZ KANE BÁRBARA 428
Juárez 135, 136 La mujer del puerto 220 Manchester 50 Milano 286, 294 Nook 421 Paz Octavio 77, 412 Revista Claudia 286, 308, 377 Sánchez Lira Mongo 318
Juárez Benito 134, 141 Landa María Teresa 212, 214 MANIPHEST 412 Minerva Fashion 377 Nordstrom 299 Penn Irving 271 Revista de Revistas 207, 211, Sánchez Oswaldo 342
Juárez Víctor 317 LANVIN JEAN 202, 271 Mantilla 106 Minifalda 271 Novo Salvador 247 PEREGRINA ALFONSO 320 213, 215, 216, 217 SÁNCHEZ ROBERTO 368, 369
Juboncillo 79 La quijotita y su prima 93 MANZINI MARÍA ROSA 342 Mitzy 286, 336, 337 Periquillo Sarniento 93, 97 Revista KS 377 Sansores Rosario 234
Jubón 72, 77
JULIA Y RENATA (FRANCO) 338,
340, 342, 352, 356, 368, 405
LARIO JAVIER 310, 320, 321, 322,
323
La semana de las señoritas
MARANT ISABEL 22
Maravillosas las 93
Mariachi 138
Moctezuma 40, 59
Modales 338
Moda Premio 377
O
OCAÑA SERGIO 310
Perkin William Henry 141
Pernet Diane 8, 9, 12, 385
Petimetres 93, 94, 95, 96
Revistas femeninas S xix 127
Revista Siempre 266
Revista Vanidades 272, 308
SANTANA RICARDO 310
Sanín Esteban 391
SARAVIA LORENA 368, 369
JULIO 387 mexicanas 127 MARIKA VERA 413, 414, 415 Modas Terminales 338, 339, OCHOA JESÚS 308 Peñafiel Antonio 27, 28, 29, Revolución 1910 354 Sayo 77
Las modernas 351 Markova Nadine 286 340, 341 Oficina de Compras Nacionales 30, 34, 36 Reyes Cortés Jesús /JJ 12 Sauza Mexican Whiskey 153
Las tres emes 280 MARQUÉS DEL RIVERO 208 Moderatto 314 318, 320, 377 Piazza Luis Guillermo 317 Reyes Lucha 220 SCHIAPARELLI ELSA 42, 50, 227
K
Kahlo Frida 69, 202, 207, 220,
La vida en México en 1810 93,
94, 95, 96
La vida en México Salvador
MARRAS ANTONIO 20, 21
MARSEL 280
MARTÍNEZ ALFREDO 368, 388,
Modista de Señoras 280
Modotti Tina 202
Moliére 77
Olimpiada México ‘68 284, 287
Olivares Iriarte Bernardo 93,
98, 100
Piedra Rodante 287, 289-294
Pinafore 153
PINEDA COVALIN 348, 378, 387
REYES RICARDO 280, 333
Reyes Xavier 314
Ridicule 87
SECO RICARDO 326, 330, 331, 378
Semana de la Moda 421
Shangai 224
256 Novo 247 404 Mondragón Jorge 421 OLIVARES ZULEMA 310, 317 PINEDA CRISTINA 387 Ridingote 87 Shirata Yoshiko 48
Kalantán 248 LAVIN LYDIA 22, 23, 72, 73 Martínez Alma 338 Monroy Faustino 280 OLIVERA ADRIANA ‘LA PÁJARA’ PINK MAGNOLIA 368 RIESTRA MARTHA 310 Shocking Pink 227
KENA LIZ 310, 320 LAYÓN ANUAR 412, 427 MARTÍNEZ ENRIQUE 280, 378 Monsivaís Carlos 141, 317 342 Pinzón Dulce 60 Río Escondido 247 Siempre en Domingo 299
KENZO 20, 21, 299 Le chanteur de mexico 256, MARVIN Y QUETZAL 360, 362, Montana Claude 310 Ollin Nahui 20, 202 PIXIE FASHION 299, 300, 301 RÍOS MARCELO 310, 333 Silueta en S 138, 153, 198
Khristio 413, 414, 415, 428 Lepape George 207 363, 364, 365, 366, 412 Montiel Klint Gerardo 86, 89 OLVERA MAURICIO 342, 352, Plateros calle 130 Riva Palacio Vicente 6, 25, 57, SILVA JOSA 368, 391, 395
Kimono 153, 202 LEÓN GUILLERMO 280 María Antonieta 20, 82, 202 Morales Jonathan 412 356 Plaza del volador 134 59, 85, 90, 91 Simbad el marino 226, 227
Kitsch 23 Limón Alberto 12 María Calendaria 247 Morales María Dolores Srita 80, Omni premio 317 PNR 219, 220 Rivas Mercado Antonieta 20, SIMPLE BY TRISTA 391
Klimt Gustav 153 Linati Claudio 30, 40, 98, 101, Marín Lupe 20 81, 141 ORENDAIN IGNACIO 308 Pointy boots 327 202 Sinafo 156, 157, 196, 210, 218,
Kolontai Alejandra 20 102, 103 Masaryk 286, 318 Morales Rowena 342 Orozco José Clemente 326 POIRET PAUL 41, 42, 202, 207 Rivera Diego 207, 239, 240, 219, 230, 243, 245, 246, 249,
Kovec Charles 271 Lincoln Abraham 141 MASSÜN SOFIA 342 Morelos y Pavón José María 69, OROZCO LUIS ROBERTO 398 Polizón 138, 153 326 261, 264
LIVERPOOL 258, 260 Mata Francisco 10, 11 90, 93 Orozco y Berra Manuel 114 Porabajos 114 ROA NOÉ 368, 369 Siqueiros David Alfaro 192
LOB 387, 388 MATOUK GENE 280, 335 Moure Jean 141 ORTEGA CARLOS 368, 369 Por siempre México 333 Robe de Style 202 Siuhquilitl 48
LOBO CON PIEL DE OVEJA 426 MATTISON ESTEBAN 308 Muertas de Juárez 20 Ortiz de Domínguez Josefa 87, Posada José Guadalupe 158-159 RODARTE 20, 21 Slim de Romero Soumaya 142
López de Santa Anna Antonio Máxtlatl 46 Mugler Thierry 310, 348 88, 93 Pozolcactli 34 Rodríguez de Velasco María SOLÍS ALEJANDRO 310
134 MAYA DE MÉXICO 262, 263 Mundial México ‘70 285, 287 Ortiz Monasterio Tito 180 Prado Gustavo 1-464, 12-13, Ignacia 93 Solís Tony 362, 365
López Marga 240 MAYO ESTEBAN 280, 282, 283 Munguía Vicente 114, 120, 121, Orvañanos Concepción 399 299, 348, 363 Rolling Stone 287 Somonte Carlos 310, 311, 313
López Nacho 243, 245, 246, MAYTORENA RUBÉN 286 122, 125 Osorno Guillermo 314 PRI 220 Romero de Terreros Don Sor Juana 69, 75, 77
266, 267, 271 Mazahuacholoskatopunk 15, 16, Muni Paul 134 OSUNA NÉSTOR 342, 352, 356 Primera Visión 377, 421 Manuel 114 Sosa Miguel Capitán 113
López Ostalaza Niobe 286 18, 19, 62, 63, 248 Museo de la Indumentaria Luis PRITAMO DHYAN 310, 313 ROMERO LEÓN FELIPE 342 Souza David 421
López Pancho 338 MCQUEEN ALEXANDER 20 Márquez Romay 348 Pudor y liviandad: tres siglos de Ropón 77 Speedy González 256
Lo que el viento se llevó 127 Meléndez Tanya 378, 379 Museo de la moda 42 moda 141, 142 Rosa mexicano 227, 348, 377 Steele Valerie 378
LOREDO PEDRO 256 MENA WILLY 286 Museo del traje mexicano 72, 73 PUERTO DE VERACRUZ 258 Rosa Mexicano la mirada de dos STRES 426
Los millones de Chaflán 220 MÉNDEZ MANUEL 271, 279, 280, Museo Franz Mayer 13 Punk 18, 310, 311, 312 generaciones 348, 349, 381 Studio Yazbek 270,271, 272,
Louis XIV 69, 77 351, 352, 353 Music to watch girls go by 271 ROSA PISTOLA 410 273, 274, 275, 276, 277, 278
Louis XV 69
Louis XVI 69
LUENGAS EDUARDO 280
MENDOZA MARÍA ROSARIO 333
Menonita 14
MERCADORAMA 412
Q
Quechquémitl 46, 50
ROSTÁN MARGUERITE 258, 265
Rue de la Paix 130
Rue de Richelieu 130
Subculturas 10, 11, 14-18, 24, 31,
61-63, 94-96, 157, 180, 210-217,
249, 250, 251-254, 255, 289-
Lully Jean Baptiste 77 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week QUESADA ALEJANDRA 360, 363, 368 Ruptura 326 293, 311-313, 318, 357, 412-419
LUNA MARIANA 352, 356, 421 342, 412, 421 Quezada Abel 302, 308 Ruy Sánchez Alberto 317 SUCCAR PAULO 368
Lunas verdes 234 Mergenthaler Johann 361, 363, Quiroz Donovan 411 RYKIEL SONIA 299 SUINAGA CLAUDIA 342
458 459
T
TACONAZO POPIS 286, 297
V
Valadéz Juan Luis 368
W
WEIL SANDRA 368, 388, 407
Z
Zacatlaxcalli 48
C O N T E N I D O
TAKASAMi 333 VALDIOSERA BERMAN RAMÓN 20, Who’s next de Vogue 391 Zaino 342
TALLER FLORA 41 23, 30, 42, 43, 44, 45, 207, Williams Andy 271 Zapata Emiliano 196
TEAMO 360 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, WONG PAOLA 368, 369 ZARA 318
Tecozahuitl 48 230, 231, 234, 262, 302, 308, Woodstock 287 Zavala y Alonso Manuel 317,
DEDICATORIA 7
Tehuana 50, 51 326, 348, 377, 381 WORTH CHARLES FREDERICK 127, 320 MEXTILO L A PELÍCUL A 12
TEMORES CARLOS 359, 360, 367 VALDÉS PEZA ARMANDO 30, 234, 134, 137, 153 Zeitgeist 23
Tengo que morir todas las 243, 244, 245, 246, 326 Wyman Lance 284, 285 Zemmoa 359, 360 INTRODUCCIÓN 17
noches 314 Vanegas Antonio Arroyo 114 Zenteno Armando
Terremoto 314 Vanity Fair 50, 207, 208 Zeón / Alejandro Salinas 12 PRIMERA ÉPOCA HISTORIA ANTIGUA 25
TERRONES HÉCTOR 280, 314, Vasconcelos José 36, 202, 326 Zona Rosa 286
336, 337, 352, 354
Tezcatlipoca 48
The age of Worth 134, 137
Vatel 77
Vera Manuel 421
Vera Marika 413-415
X
Xipetotec 48
Zoot suit 248
Zoriano Miguel Ángel 320
SEGUNDA ÉPOCA EL VIRREINATO
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A N D O N E L L A M E X T I L O + L I B R O
Andonella le pinta todas la mañanas unas cejas en la frente
a su perrita... Rita. Como no pudo ser tatuadura porque le
tiemblan las piernas, ‘tatúa’ todo lo que NO se mueva.
En el siglo XXI lo más importante es crear con libertad, todo el tiempo oigo que
Las hojas de papel principalmente, pero también las chamarras,
las sudaderas, los pines. Hace dibujos grandototes para las
los diseños, o que la moda ‘tendrían que tener mas apoyo del gobierno’... - NO!
marcas en cosas como el Corona Capital. Ha dibujado a toda Este libro es como es, porque no creo que nadie pueda determinar la creación
velocidad para Volkswagen, Sonia Rykiel. de otra persona. En el camino varios diseñadores y editoriales me dijeron que
Es de lo mejor que hay en el libro 50 ÍCONOS DE LA CIUDAD DE le entraban si -por ejemplo- quitaba a Andonella. Entonces la enseñanza es que
MÉXICO de Editorial Travesías. También dibujó en Pictoline. hagas tus proyectos sin pedirle permiso a nadie, ese es el mérito de FONDEADORA,
Es seria como Merlina, pero con mucho sentido del humor. ahora KICKSTARTER: LA POSIBILIDAD DE CREAR EN LIBERTAD. !GRACIAS AL CROWDFUNDING!
Muchas veces sus personajes tienen los ojos cerrados porque Además del apoyo increíble del fondeo, este libro no se hubiera podido hacer sin
los captura en el momento justo en el que están ensoñando. la generosidad de los diseñadores, a todos GRACIAS -DUDES! ESTE ES SU HOMENAJE!!-
Últimamente hizo un libro en el que ya no salen sólo . Después de dedicar una vida a la fotografía, mi familia de la foto vino al quite, a
personajes sino pequeños mundos. Son los mundos en los que ustedes: Francisco Mata, Alessandro Bo, Federico Gama, Ana York, Dulce Pinzón,
Andonella juega con la historia y los sitios de México. Hace
Valerio Gámez, Raúl Guerrero, Lourdes Almeida, Gerardo Montiel Klint, Antonio
mucho mucho tiempo ella quiso ser diseñadora de moda,
pero no lo hizo para diseñarse ella sola. Pero para cumplirse el
Caballero, Nacho López, Carlos Contreras, Carlos Somonte, Pedro Meyer, Mayra
sueño dibujó con mucho cariño Mextilo. Y con eso iluminó los Mendoza, Tufic Yazbek, Manuel Zavala, !Adolfo Patiño!!!, Germán Najera + Iván
sueños de moda de muchas niñas y niños que algún día serán Flores, Giancarlo Cruz, Iván Aguirre, Tony Solís, Felipe Huertas, Jamie Luca, Rodrigo
creadoras felices ... como ella... Navarro, Salvador Hernández, Donovan Quiroz, Khristio, Alberto Hidalgo, Eduardo
G U S T A V O P R A D O
Cuatro cosas por las que vino Prado al mundo: los perros, el café, el vino Guijosa. Mil mil gracias!!
tinto y... dar clases. En la vida hago mil otras cosas más: hago curaduría, La lista es muy larga pero hay que intentarlo, GRACIAS A: SR XAVIER REYES, SRA. JANNETTE
he sido Curador de los dos únicos museos de foto que ha habido en DF, KLEIN, FRANCISCO SALDAÑA Y GREGORIO LÓPEZ / Anna Fusoni, Tanya Meléndez, Ana
donde hago cosas como POSE fotografía de moda Mx en 2016. Elena Mallet siempre compartieron información y sus puntos de vista / El Gimnasio
Soy Speaker profesional en Tedx, en Startup Mx, Intermoda, Minerva
de Arte, Scal Comunicación en Gdl., Puebla Viste Diseño. / En Mty. mil gracias
Moda, Dmx32.
Soy mentor en Unreasonable, en Startup Weekend. a Yadira Ornelas y a David Durán / María Guadalupe Lara y el equipo de FM4C
Hago estudios de tendencias y futuros para empresas como Diageo, / GRACIAS A SARA GALINDO Y JOHANN MERGENTHALER POR LA AVENTURA DE DMX32 /
Pepsi, Dafiti, Calvin Klein. Tengo Trendo.mx que es una agencia de MIL GRACIAS a mis 25,000 GUSLIEBERS que me siguen en trendo.mx y a los 250,000
tendencias con miles y miles de seguidores en fb y soy vlogger en que me ven en youtube, de verdad ustedes son mi razón para vivir. Al final, gracias a
youtube.
tí que buscas en este libro las respuestas a tu vocación. Siempre estaré aquí para ti:
Pero todo eso es perder mi tiempo: yo sólo debería de dar clases.
He impartido cátedra en todas las escuelas de moda de CDMX. Soy escribeme en el face, o en el instagram, me tardo pero siempre te voy a contestar :D
maestro en la Maestría de Diseño Avanzado en Morelia. He sido
Director en el Cedim de Mty.
Pero neta todavía no he encontrado una escuela que pueda lograr
hacer una educación para el diseño, NO filosófica sino práctica que
no se pierda en las manualidades sino que enseñe conceptos de marca.
Supongo que eventualmente tendré que poner una escuela por que
urge una revolución.
Me muero por coachear a un alumn@ que sea el primero en triunfar
desde Mx en la moda mundial. No lo he logrado... aún.
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