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So You Want a Box Mod…

Look! A box mod! The fabled cloud machine, The ultimate vaping
device, to some. BUT.. Not all box mods are the same. They may
look similar on the outside, but there are many different ways a
box mod can be constructed. This document is intended to
educate you on the differences so that you might be able to
choose the box that best suits your preferred vape style. What this
document will not do is tell you how much you should pay, or what
box you need to get. Pros and cons will be covered on all box
types.

The quality of construction, soldering, and the components

chosen play a huge part in how the box will perform. For the
purposes of this article: when discussing ratings and limitations of
any device, only manufacturer’s specifications will be used. A firm
understanding of Ohm’s law is needed.

What are the different types?

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Box mods can be broken down in to a few different types based on the components used in
construction.

- Unregulated: The simplest design. A switch is used to control the current to the atty
connection. Some unregulated boxes use a push button switch, other use a custom-
made switch assembly. Commonly built as single battery or dual battery in parallel
mode or series mode.

-MOSFET: Similar to an unregulated box, except that a solid-state device called a

MOSFET is used to switch the current. Generally the same as a basic unregulated box,
with the added benefit of much higher current switching capability, and lower voltage
loss than a switch.

-Regulated: Covers a wide range of boxes. Utilizes a voltage regulator to control the
voltage to the atty connection. May have additional features.


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Unregulated Boxes
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An unregulated box is of fairly simple construction. Current is controlled by a switching
mechanism, whether it be a push button switch or another device. The exact same rules apply
as standard tube mechs when considering your build and desired vape. So what makes them
perform well? Typically, mech boxes use two batteries in parallel. The two batteries together
effectively double the amount of available discharge current and cutting the voltage loss from
battery sag in half.

Series boxes are available as well. These boxes use two batteries wired in series to double
the output voltage to 8.4 volts at max charge. Available discharge current remains the same.
It’s important to keep in mind that since the voltage is doubled, your atty resistance should be
increased to avoid any potential battery venting issues.

One very important consideration in either box design: The push button switches commonly
used in box mods are generally rated at between 2-6 amps at 35vdc. In a box mod, these
switches are generally subjected to much higher current levels than intended, and are at risk
of premature failure. Ohm’s law math does not apply to switch ratings. A 45vdc 10 amp
switch is NOT capable of 100 amps at 4.5vdc. It IS safely capable of 10 amps at 4.5vdc. I
encourage you to research the switch used in the box and find it’s maximum amp rating.

Ohm’s law should be used to determine what a safe build is in either box. Do not exceed the
battery’s max discharge rate, and try to stay within the switch limitations. If you do exceed the
switch limitations, understand that the increased load across the switch may cause the switch
to fail. I is possible that the switch may weld closed, causing an auto-fire condition. Be safe.

Ohms’s Law Calculators- -http://www.vapenotsmoke.com/how-to-2/

Ohm’s law overview- - http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/circuits/Lesson-3/Ohm-s-Law

Pros:
- Economical

- Fairly simple to construct and use.

Cons:
- Switch ratings can affect sub-ohm capability, Battery sag and voltage drop are still present.

- Vape quality decreases as battery voltage decreases

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MOSFET Boxes
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As discussed above in the unregulated section, the weak point of many unregulated boxes is
the current rating of the switch. Incorporating a MOSFET into the build removes this limitation
while reducing voltage-loss by eliminating the physical switch contacts within the circuit.
Every switch has an internal resistance which results in voltage loss. These boxes are
sometimes incorrectly referred to as “semi-mechanical”.

What is a MOSFET?: It’s a type of transistor that’s able to switch a significant amount of
current. It is used in this case as a solid-state relay. What it does in a box mod is remove the
current load from the switch. The push button switch is only used to activate the MOSFET.

Mosfet boxes can be made in series or parallel

configurations. The same battery limitations apply, but the
switch has been eliminated as the weak point in the circuit.

There are only a few MOSFETs manufactured that are

appropriate for box mods, with one in particular as the
standout. This particular mosfet (International Rectifier
IRLB30304PBF) is capable of switching 195amps. This is
far above the discharge rate 18650 and 26650 batteries.

!
Pros:
- High current handling capability

- Lower voltage drop than a mechanical box

- Familiar usability. Sub-ohm capable.

Cons:
- Battery sag is still present

- Vape quality decreases as battery voltage decreases

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Regulated Boxes
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Regulated box mods come in many different variations. The features can range from a simple
variable voltage device, to a feature-packed box with a colored display allowing adjustment
of many different variables. There’s also a wide range of total watts the box can produce.
Anywhere from 30 watts to 300 watts are made. When selecting a regulated box you should
ask what type of regulator is used, and become familiar with the features and capabilities of
these regulators.

Many different devices are used. A summary of the most common ones are below:

Regulator types:
* - NAOS Raptor, Murata OKR/OKL, Delta Electronics, and TI all fall into a category of
regulators called “buck converters”. These are general purpose DC to DC converters that
will output a specified voltage through use of a potentiometer (knob) on the box. These
devices will produce the specified voltage regardless of the current charge level of the
batteries assuming they have enough charge left to reach the minimum input voltage that
the regulator requires to operate. This provides consistent vapor production from fully
charged to when the battery voltage drops below regulator’s threshold, or when an internal
cut-off diode’s voltage level is met. These devices are not all exactly the same. They look
similar, but the manufacturer specifications vary depending on brand/model. Claims of
higher than specified wattage capabilities can be made when the regulator is “overdriven”
through lower atty resistance or boosting the output voltage. By doing this you are
exceeding the specified limits of the regulator and risk premature failure.

* Here are basic specifications of some of the more common regulators and the lowest
atomizer resistance to achieve maximum watts. The suggested build resistance is only a
recommended minimum.

- OKR T/10 : Maximum voltage 6v, Maximum current 10 amps (50 Watts) .6 Ω build

- Raptor 10a: Maximum voltage 6v, Maximum current 10 amps = 60 Watts .6 Ω build

- Raptor 20a: Maximum voltage 6v, Maximum current 20 amps = 120 Watts .3 Ω build

- OKL2 T/20 : Maximum voltage 5.5v, Maximum current 20 amps = 110 Watts .275 Ω build

- Raptor 40a: Maximum voltage 5v, Maximum current 40 amps = 200 watts .125 Ω build

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Raptor/OKR boxes:
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These boxes typically consist of a series battery setup with a potentiometer and regulator.
Additional components may include fuses, a mosfet for reverse polarity protection, a voltage
meter…etc. All of which add cost and time to the build.

All of these regulators are at risk of reverse polarity damage. Care must be taken to insert the
batteries correctly to avoid damage to the regulator. A p-channel mosfet can be added to
avoid damage.

As with any regulated device, limitations on atty resistance exist. In order to fully utilize all of
the available wattage, you will want to build your atomizer so that at maximum voltage, you
are near the max current rating of the chip. For example:

- On a raptor 10, with a maximum voltage of 6 volts and a maximum output current of 10
amps, Atty resistance of .6 will consume 60 watts of power at maximum voltage.

* - Due to the limited amount of protection these regulators have, overdriving the regulator
can be achieved by decreasing the atty resistance. Many of the regulators will operate at
higher than recommended current levels, producing more watts than it was designed for.
Although this capability exists, damage to the regulator can occur. Overdriving the
regulator is not recommended.

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Evolv DNA, YiHi SX, etc
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These full-featured regulators all work in a similar fashion, but offer displays, atty resistance
measurement, and other features specific to each device.

If you’re interested in learning more about these devices, please consult the manufacturer’s
documentation for features and capabilities. In the interest of keeping this document under
10 pages, specific features of these devices will be left out.

They are equally capable devices with very attractive features, but typically come at a much
higher price than the DC/DC converters outlined above.

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Other Considerations:
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1 - Wire size: The size of wire used to connect the components within the box should be
sized according to the maximum load that might be used. Connections to the 510 and
battery tray will typically carry high current. Unregulated or MOSFET boxes should be built
with no smaller than 14 gauge wire for the high-current conductors.

2 - Soldering quality: The quality of the soldered joints can directly affect the mod’s
performance. If solder joints appear ragged, or cold, the connection could fail at some point.

3 - Time to construct: A common misconception is that boxes only take 20 minutes to build.
There are so many variables that affect the time it takes to complete a box. Custom paint,
wooden enclosures, and added features all contribute to the time it took to make the box.
The complexity of the regulator chosen in the build may also add time. These items may add
to the overall price of the box.

4 - Cleanliness of the build: A clean build is usually a good indicator of quality construction.
Excessive wire, glue, or a messy layout may indicate that the box was poorly constructed.

5 - 510 connection: A wide array of 510 connectors are used. Some of the more popular
branded boxes use an inexpensive, non-adjustable brass connector, a proprietary adjustable
connector, or the top of an unwanted e-Go battery. Others may use a self-adjusting stainless
connector manufactured by Fat Daddy Vapes or Varitube specifically for box modding.

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USER LIABILITY:
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It’s important that you’re familiar with the limitations of your box mod. Use caution and
consider that any box will be damaged by improper use, running too low of a build, or
inserting the batteries backwards. Safeguards against these things may be built into the box
by way of fuses, p-fets, or other safety devices. These safeguards do not exempt the user
from negligent use. Safety is an important consideration. Liability ultimately rests on the end-
user for proper use and performance.

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