()

Sweatshirt Sweater
I grew up wearing a school uniform, which, for me, turns out to be a hard habit to kick.
Some people seem to totally reject their childhoods of forced a re, op ng for recklessly
eclec c wardrobes. But I can’t fight it; I’m a uniform kid, through and through.
I am sure you’ll be relieved to read I am no longer spor ng ill-fi ng plaid jumpers, but
there is rarely a day that goes by that I’m not in my own personal uniform. Lately, it’s been
dark-wash Levi’s paired with some form of a baseball T or an athle c-gray sweatshirt.
Naturally, I need handknit interpreta ons of these basics! I accomplished the first this past
autumn when I s tched up the Everyday Linen Raglan. And now, I’m happy to add a
thicker, cozier, woolier version to my collec on… the Sweatshirt Sweater!
The Sweatshirt Sweater is my new go-to garb, spacious enough for under-layers and so
enough to go without. It’s knit in Swans Island 100% organic merino, a beau ful light
worsted yarn that evokes a natural refinement. I’ll be in this uniform for these last snowy
days of March, all the way through the crisp nights of spring!
Spoiler alert: as the seasons change, so does my uniform, so keep your eye out for some
more knit basics in the months to come! -Laura

MATERIALS
4 (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins of Swans Island’s Worsted, 100% organic merino wool. This color is
Seasmoke.
NOTE: Unfortunately, we no longer carry Swans Island’s Worsted. Other wonderful
Light Worsted/DK weight alternatives include Koigu’s Kersti and Jade Sapphire’s 6-
Ply Cashmere.
A set of US 6 double pointed needles
A US 6, 16-inch circular needle
 A US 6, 24 or 32-inch circular needle
A set of US 7 double pointed needles
A US 7, 24 or 32-inch circular needle
A US 7, 16-inch or longer circular needle (optional, needed only if making pocket)
1 removable stitch marker
4 stitch marker (3 for raglan shaping, 1 of a different color for beginning of round)

GAUGE
5 1/2 s tches = 1 inch in stockine e on larger needles

SIZES
X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)

Finished Chest Circumference: 33 3/4 (37 1/2, 41, 44 3/4, 48 1/4) inches
Finished Hip Circumference: 28 (31, 34, 37, 40) inches
Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 14 inches, with directions to adjust
Finished Length from Shoulder to Underarm: 7 1/2 (8 1/4, 9 1/4, 9 3/4, 10) inches
Finished Length from Sleeve Cuff to Underarm: 16 (17, 19, 19 1/2, 20 1/2) inches, with
direction to adjust
NOTE: The size Small sweater shown here on a 34-inch bust dressform with 3 1/2
inches of ease. Please pay close attention to finished dimensions above when selecting
which size to make!

NOTES
sk2p (slip 1, k2tog, psso): This is a le -slan ng double decrease. Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2
together, pass the slipped s tch over the knit s tch and off the needle. [2 s tches
decreased]

k3tog (knit 3 together): This is a right-slan ng double decrease. Insert right needle into
next three s tches as if to knit. Knit all three s tches together as if they were one s tch.
[2 s tches decreased]

PATTERN
SLEEVES
With the smaller sized double pointed needles, cast on 42 (45, 51, 54, 60) s tches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the s tches.

Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 un l piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge.

Change to larger double pointed needles.

Round 2: K35 (38, 44, 47, 53), place different color marker (pm), [p1, k2] two mes, p1.

** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two
mes, p1. (2 s tches increased)

Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two mes, p1.

Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more mes.

Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more mes. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) s tches

Repeat Round 3. 68 (77, 83, 92, 100) s tches

Note: If you are par cularly short (or long) limbed and would like to adjust the length of the
sleeve,

repeat Round 4 fewer (or more) mes between increase rounds.

Next Round: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) s tches on a s tch holder or
scrap yarn, removing s tch markers.

Place remaining 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) s tches on scrap yarn or a spare circular needle.

Make a second sleeve iden cal to the first.

BODY
BEGIN AT BOTTOM EDGE
With the smaller, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, cast on 168 (186, 204, 222, 240) s tches.

Place marker and connect for working in the round, being careful to not twist the s tches.

Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 un l piece measures 2 1/4 (2 1/4, 2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 3) inches.

Next Round (increase round): *K5, k1 , [k8, k1 ] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) mes, [k2, p1] two
mes, repeat from * to end of round. 186 (206, 226, 246, 266 s tches)

Next Round: With larger, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, *k86 (96, 106, 116, 126), place
different color marker, [p1, k2] two mes, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two mes, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last round un l piece measures 3 1/4 (3 1/4, 3 1/4, 3 1/2, 3 1/2, 4) inches from
cast on edge.
MARK FOR POUCH (OPTIONAL)
NOTE: If you are not making the pouch, skip to the “Con nue” sec on.

Round 1: K7, mark this 7th s tch with a removable s tch marker, *knit to next marker, [p1,
k2] two mes, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Con nue working in established pa ern un l piece measures 10 (10 1/4, 10 1/2, 11, 12)
inches from cast on edge.
MAKE THE POUCH (OPTIONAL)
With the extra larger circular needle, star ng with (and including) the marked s tch, slip the
point of the needle under the right leg of the following 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) s tches

Remove the removable marker.

For this sec on, you will be working just the 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) pouch s tches. You’ll
work back and forth in rows, turning the piece at the end of each row.

Row 1 (right side): K1, p1, [k2, p1] two mes, knit to last 8 s tches, [p1, k2] two mes, p1,
k1.

Row 2 (wrong side): P1, k1, [p2, k1] two mes, purl to last 8 s tches, [k1, p2] two mes,
k1, p1.

Row 3 (decrease row): K1, p1, [k2, p1] two mes, ssk, knit to last 10 s tches, k2tog, [p1,
k2] two mes, p1, k1. (2 s tches decreased)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 eighteen (19, 20, 21, 22) more mes. 36 (44, 52, 60, 68) s tches

Repeat Row 2.

Cut yarn, leaving the s tches on the needle.

GRAFT THE POUCH (OPTIONAL)

To gra the pouch s tches to the body of the sweater…

Returning to the body of the sweater and con nuing from where you le off, k25 (26, 27,
28, 29). Now holding the pouch needle and sweater needle parallel to each other, *knit
one s tch from the front pouch needle together with one s tch from the back sweater
needle, repeat from *un l all the pouch s tches have been knit. Now con nuing with just
the body s tches and working again in the round, **knit to next marker, [p1, k2], two
mes, p1, repeat from ** to end of round.
CONTINUE BODY

Con nue working in established pa ern un l body of sweater measures 14 inches from
cast on edge or desired length to underarm.

YOKE
JOIN THE SLEEVES
Round 1: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two mes, p1, k0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9,
11, 13) s tches on a s tch holder (removing marker), knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two
mes, p1. 179 (199, 217, 235, 253) s tches

Round 2: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) s tches on a s tch holder (removing
marker), knit to first s tch holder, pm, orient the sleeve’s on-hold underarm s tches so
they are parallel and next to the body’s on-hold underarm s tches and knit the sleeve
s tches (star ng with the s tch to the right of the s tches on hold), pm, knit to next s tch
holder, pm, knit the second sleeve s tches, place a different color marker (this is the new
end of the round). 294 (332, 356, 386, 414) total s tches: 86 (96, 104, 112, 120) s tches
for front and back, 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) s tches for each sleeve

BEGIN RAGLAN SHAPING

Round 1: *P1, k2, p1, knit to 4 s tches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to
three s tches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end.

Repeat Round 1 two more mes.

Next Round (decrease round): *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 s tches before next marker, k2tog,
p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to five s tches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, repeat
from * to end. (8 s tches decreased)
Repeat Round 1.

Repeat last two rounds sixteen (19, 21, 23, 25) more mes. 158 (172, 180, 194, 206) total
s tches: 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) s tches for front and back, 27 (30, 30, 33, 35) s tches for
each sleeve

CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK

You will no longer be working in the round but back and forth in rows, turning the work at
the end of each row.

Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 26, 28, 30), turn work so that wrong side (the inside
of the sweater) is facing you. Where you just turned will now be considered the end of the
row, and what was previously considered the end-of-round marker is now just a regular
marker.

Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) s tches purlwise, [purl to 4 s tches before next
marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 s tches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1]
two mes, purl to end of row. 152 (166, 174, 186, 198) total s tches

Row 3 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) s tches knitwise, [knit to 6 s tches
before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 s tches before next marker,
k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two mes, knit to end of row. 138 (152, 160, 170, 182)
s tches

Row 4: Bind off 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) s tches purlwise, [purl to 4 s tches before next marker, k1,
p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 s tches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two mes,
purl to end of row. 135 (149, 157, 166, 178) s tches

Row 5 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 3, (3, 3, 4, 4) knitwise, [knit to 6 s tches before
marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 s tches before next marker, k2tog, p1,
k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two mes, knit to end of row. 124 (138, 146, 154, 166) s tches

Row 6 : Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) s tches purlwise, [purl to 4 s tches before next marker, k1,
p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 s tches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two mes,
purl to end of row. 122 (136, 144, 151, 163) s tches

Row 7 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) knitwise, [knit to 6 s tches before marker,
k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 s tches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm,
p1, k2, p1, ssk] two mes, knit to end of row. 112 (126, 134, 140, 152) s tches

Row 8: [Purl to 4 s tches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 s tches
before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two mes, purl to end.

Row 9 (raglan shaping row): Ssk, [knit to 6 s tches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2,
p1, ssk, knit to 5 s tches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two mes,
knit to last 2 s tches, k2tog. (10 s tches decreased)
Repeat Rows 8 and Row 9 two (3, 4, 3, 4) more mes. 82 (86, 84, 100, 102) total s tches:
12 (12, 12, 12, 12) total for the front, 40 (42, 44, 50, 52) for back, 15 (16, 14, 19, 19) for
each sleeve

FOR XS (SMALL, LARGE, XLARGE) SIZES ONLY

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: [Knit to 6 s tches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5
s tches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two mes, knit to end of
row. 74 (78, 92, 94) s tches: 10 for right and le front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14,
17, 17) for each sleeve

FOR XS SIZE ONLY

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 s tches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5
s tches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pa ern notes above),
knit to 7 s tches before next marker, k3tog (see pa ern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2,
p1, ssk, knit to 5 s tches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of
row. 66 total s tches: 10 for right and le front, 34 for back, 11 for each sleeve

FOR MEDIUM SIZE ONLY

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 6 s tches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 s tches
before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pa ern notes above), knit to 7
s tches before next marker, k3tog (see pa ern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to
3 s tches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. 78 s tches: 10
for right and le front, 40 for back, 14 for each sleeve

FOR LARGE SIZE ONLY

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 s tches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 s tches before
next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 s tches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2,
p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 s tches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of
row. 90 total s tches: 10 for right and le front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve

FOR XLARGE SIZE ONLY

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 s tches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 s tches before
next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pa ern notes above), knit to 7 s tches
before next marker, k3tog (see pa ern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3
s tches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total s tches: 10
for right and le front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve

NECKBAND

For this sec on, you will once again be working in the round, no longer back and forth in
rows.
Con nuing with the right side facing you and now using the smaller, 16-inch circular
needle, pm (new beginning of round), pick up 30 (33, 36 ,36 ,39) s tches evenly along the
front neckline. Con nuing around the remaining 66 (78, 78, 90, 90) s tches, *k1, p1, k1,
repeat from * to end of round. 96 (111, 114, 126, 129) s tches

Next Round: *K1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last round un l ribbing measures 1 1/4 (1 1/4, 1 1/2 ,1 3/4 , 2) inches.

Bind off loosely in pa ern.

FINISH
UNDERARMS
Slip one pair of underarm s tches from the s tch holders to two double pointed needles.
Holding the needles parallel to one another, use the Kitchener S tch to gra closed the
underarm.

Repeat for second underarm.

FINAL STEPS
Weave in your ends, block as desired and you are finished!
SIMILAR POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY:
Bobble Yoke Sweater: Now Sized for Twisted Rib Pullover
Kids and Women Too!

Lightweight Raglan Pullover

 Purl Soho Cardigan Vest

MARCH 17, 2013 | LAURA’S LOOP

TAGS: Free Knitting Pattern, Light Worsted/DK Weight Yarn, Men, Raglan, Ribbed, Swan's Island, Sweaters,
Women

S A V E T O F A V O R I T E S

PRINT 368 COMMENTS

Like

< PREVIOUS POST NEXT POST >

Baby Jumper Fluffy Brioche Baby Blanket

368 Responses to Sweatshirt Sweater

CLICK HERE TO ADD A COMMENT
← Older Comments

Mary Catherine St. Louis says:

October 11, 2017

Hi! Thank you for making it comfortable for kni ers to ask ques ons without feeling
stupid. Much appreciated. I’ve finished repea ng Round 4 five mes (XS). When
repea ng from ** eleven mes does that include repea ng rounds 3 and 4, and repeat
round 4 five mes and do all of that eleven mes? Thank you. I’m going to love this
sweatshirt sweater
reply

Cassy from the Purl Bee says:

October 11, 2017

Hi Mary Catherine,

Thank you so much for your kind words! We hope that we can be a comfortable
resource for ques ons!

I think that I can clear things up! In this sec on of the pa ern you will repeat rounds
3 and 4 eleven mes for the size that you are kni ng.

I hope that this answers your ques on and don’t hesitate to get back in touch!
Cassy
reply
Barbara says:
October 11, 2017

This is a beau ful sweater and very much my style! Could you tell me the required
yardage amounts for this sweater? I plan on making the Large.

Thank you!
reply

Cassy from the Purl Bee says:

October 11, 2017

Hi Barbara,

Thanks for wri ng in! This lovely sweater uses approximately 1000 (1250, 1250,
1500, 1500) yards.

Happy kni ng!

Cassy
reply

Barbara says:
October 13, 2017

Thank you!!
reply

pat says:
October 27, 2017

Does elimina ng the pouch add any width to the sweater? Also, for a 36ʺ bust would
you suggest the small size? I don’t want it baggy, but I don’t want it snug either. ;). This
will be my first sweater. Thanks
reply

Melissa from the Purl Bee says:

October 27, 2017

Hi Pat,
I don’t believe elimina ng the pouch will add width to the sweater. If you are a 36 I
would recommend the small size.

I hope this helps,

Melissa
reply
Peyton says:
October 29, 2017

Hello, I am working on making a modified version of this sweater where I am adding

shaping and cables. I am working out these modifica ons for the pa ern myself, but I
would also like to change the neck shaping to be a turtle neck and I am less sure how
to do this. It is my first sweater so I do not want to mess up the shoulder and neck
shaping because I don’t know what I am doing. My thought is that I could wing it a li le
by con nuing the decreases up to the point I want to start the neck and then do the
reverse ribbing pa ern un l it is long enough to fold over and cast off. Does this seem
like a reasonable way to achieve this or do you have a be er sugges on? I also already
worked my sleeves in the small size but will be working the shoulders and neck in the
extra small size so I will be star ng with 70 s tches for each sleeve and 86 s tches for
the front and back if that makes a difference. I appreciate any feedback or advice you
could offer. I love the pa ern, just also like my sweaters ght and love cable pa erns.
reply

Cassy from the Purl Bee says:

November 16, 2017

Hi Peyton,

Thanks for wri ng in! What a amazing project! It is quite a lot of work to modify a
pa ern! You could certainly try out a turtleneck. In theory you could just con nue
the neck band to make it into a turtle neck. The only thing you might have to adjust
is adding in a couple of decreases to make the neck less wide. You will have to do a
bit of experimen ng, but it shouldn’t be to complicated.

I hope that this helps!

Cassy
reply
Meko says:
November 5, 2017

Hello!

I fell in love with this pa ern and decided to make it my first a empt at a sweater…a
very nervous a empt. I do have a couple ques ons:
1. I am using Madelinetosh Tosh DK and came up with a gauge of 5 st per inch. Is this
off enough to warrant going down a needle size?
2. For the sizing I need to use the large for the chest, xl for the hip and small for the
length from the shoulder to underarm and length from sleeve cuff to underarm. Can I
cast on the small size for the sleeves since I do seem to have smaller wrists/arms? Or
should I use a larger size and use needles that are a couple sizes smaller? If I do use the
small size will that hinder how the sleeves will a ach?

Thank you for any help you can offer!

Regards,
Meko
reply

Cassy from the Purl Bee says:

November 7, 2017

Hi Meko,

Thanks for wri ng in! When kni ng garments, gauge is rather cri cal! Half a s tch
per inch might not seem like a lot but over the whole of s sweater, it can equal
several inches. I would suggest swatching again on smaller needles.

As to the size that you will be kni ng, generally, our pa erns are sized based on
your bust measurement (that is the measurement of the fullest part of your bust).
For this pa ern, you should add about 3 inches to this measurement and choose
the closest size. Given that you will add a few inches to your bust measurement,
the hip size of the large might work for you. Combining sizes could be quite a
challenge! You can easily change the length of the arms or increase more frequently
to get from a smaller size wrist to match the number of s tches that you will need
when you connect the sleeves. However, all of this does add complica on and may
require you to do a fair bit of reworking of the pa ern. I would not recommend
going down needle sizes on the arms from the body as it will change the fabric fairly
drama cally.

Best,
Cassy
reply
Lee says:
November 21, 2017

Hello
I’d like to make this for a 4 year old boy.
Do you have a smaller pa ern, or sugges ons on
how to adjust this one, for a smaller fit.
thanks, cheers.
reply

Carly from the Purl Bee says:

November 21, 2017

Hi Lee,

Unfortunately, we don’t have this pa ern wri en in a size that would fit a 4 year
old. I will be sure to pass along your request!

Best,
Carly
reply

Lee says:
November 24, 2017

thanks, carly

have a good christmas

reply
Jackie says:
November 24, 2017

Hi, this is my first a empt at a sweater. My sleeve cuffs do not look like ribbing and I
suspect because I am using magic loop. That said, I ripped it out and followed another
tutorial, but now that cuff is done I am a li le worried I will not get that subtle detail up
the sleev.e. In round 2 what is pm? Also should I be modifying for magic loop method?
K2, p1 does not give me the right look. Thanks !
reply

Marilla from the Purl Bee says:

November 26, 2017

Hello Jackie,
Thank you for reaching out! In row 2 when it says pm it simply means place marker-
just be sure to place a marker that is a different color than your end of round marker
so that you know which is which.
As far as magic loop, this technique should not disrupt anything in the pa ern. I
would maybe prac ce a few rows before jumping into the pa ern. K2 p1 should
come out as a rib- how specifically is your kni ng coming out?
Happy kni ng!
-Marilla
reply

Ann Carrigan says:

December 6, 2017

I am making this sweater in size M. the following direc ons under YOKE, JOIN THE
SLEEVES, Round 1: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two mes, p1, k0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place
previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) s tches on a s tch holder (removing marker),
These direc ons say to place 9 sts on a holder. Should it be 7 sts for size M ??
reply

Marilla from the Purl Bee says:

December 6, 2017

Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out! For the size M you will place the previous 9 sts on a
s tch holder.
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any further
ques ons!
Happy kni ng,
Marilla
reply
Chava says:
December 9, 2017

I would like to use Malabrigo merino worsted wt or Malagrigo DK on this pa ern.

Would the DK wt be a be er choice? Am thinking that worsted wt might be too big…
thanks for your help.
reply

Cassy from the Purl Bee says:

December 11, 2017

Hi Chava,

Thanks for wri ng in! Based on gauge, I think that Malabrigo Worsted might be a bit
heavy for this sweater! You will want to look for a Light Worsted/DK with a gauge of
5 1/2 s tches per inch. For the most part, it seems like Malabrigo’s DK op ons will
work be er for this sweater!

I hope that this helps!

Cassy
reply

Tanya says:
December 27, 2017

Is there anyway to make this into an off the shoulder neckline?

How would I be able to do that?

Lovely pa ern!
reply

Cassy from the Purl Bee says:

December 29, 2017

Hi Tanya,

Thanks for wri ng in! You can certainly try conver ng this sweater into an off the
shoulder neckline but we are unable to customize pa erns at this me. You can
start by kni ng fewer decreases in the raglan shaping sec on. You will want to try
it on as you go. You can then begin the neck ribbing once you are at a point that
you like.

I hope that this helps!

Cassy
reply
Sara says:
December 27, 2017

Thanks for pos ng this pa ern. I tackled it as my first sweater and it turned out great!
Your instruc ons are always very easy to follow. Thanks and looking forward to kni ng
more sweaters!
reply

kylie says:
January 1, 2018

K1, p1, [k2, p1] What does this mean? Do I do the K1,p2 or the k2,p1?
reply

Cassy from the Purl Bee says:

January 2, 2018

Hi Kylie,

Thanks for wri ng in! I think that I can help. In the pa ern when it states K1, p1,
[k2, p1] two times, you will k1, p1 and then repeat the k2, p1 two mes. Wri en
out in long form, this would be k1, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1.

I hope that this clears things up!

Cassy
reply

Allison says:
January 1, 2018

I love this sweater but I’m allergic to wool. Do you have a sugges on of a non-wool
yarn that might work for this?
reply

Marilla from the Purl Bee says:

January 15, 2018

Hello Allison,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this sweater would be lovely in either our
Understory yarn which is 50% Baby Alpaca, 25% Baby Yak, 25% Silk, or Jade
Sapphire’s 6ply Cashmere. I hope this helps and happy kni ng!
-Marilla
reply
Theresa says:
January 3, 2018

Thank you for a free pa ern! It looks wonderful. I no ced on Ravelry that there is a
“pa ern errata” available. However, when I click on that link, it says unavailable. I
downloaded the free pa ern in the beginning of December, is that the correct pa ern?
reply

Cassy from the Purl Bee says:

January 5, 2018

Hi Theresa,

Thanks for wri ng in! The pa ern that you have should be the most up to date
version! The last errata found was in 2014 and we then corrected the pa ern on
the page. You can always check our errata page here:
h ps://www.purlsoho.com/create/knit/errata/#the-sweatshirt-sweater We try to
always include the date that the errata was added so that you can know if you have
the most up to date pa ern.

I hope that this helps!

Cassy
reply
Yuka says:
February 1, 2018

Hello there,

I wanted to clarify the sec on under Begin Raglan shaping part. A er the first decrease
round I can see from a previous thread that in total you repeat round 1 three mes. In
the next sec on:

‘Repeat last two rounds sixteen (19, 21, 23, 25) more mes. 158 (172, 180, 194, 206)
total s tches: 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) s tches for front and back, 27 (30, 30, 33, 35)
s tches for each sleeve’

Do you do the decrease round and then repeat round 1 three mes again or just once
a er each subsequent decrease round?

Many thanks,

Yuka
reply

Marilla from the Purl Bee says:

February 5, 2018

Hello Yuka,
Thank you for reaching out! In this sec on of the pa ern you repeat row 1 once
a er each decrease row.
I hope this clears things up and happy kni ng!
-Marilla
reply
Vivi says:
February 5, 2018

Hi, would you have any advice on how to make a short sleeved version of this?
reply

Marilla from the Purl Bee says:

February 5, 2018

Hello Vivi,
Thank you for reaching out! It might take some experimen ng, but it should be
pre y easy to do. I would just decide how long you want your sleeve and then how
wide your sleeve needs to be at that point. It could also be nice to put a bit of
ribbing on the edges of your sleeves.
Good luck and happy kni ng!
-Marilla
reply
Polly says:
February 12, 2018

Hi!

This is my first adult sweater, and I’m excited to be embarking on this challenge!

I’m doing size small, and I finished the first sleeve, but when I try it on, it seems a li le
short. Should I…
A) redo it, repea ng round 4 more mes between increases? (If so, how many more
mes should I repeat round 4 between increases if I want to add an inch or two?)
or
B) add an inch or two of round 4 at the “armpit/shoulder” end of the sleeve a er the
final increase round I did according to the pa ern? (My ins nct is that this may look
strange…)

Thanks in advance!
Polly
reply

Marilla from the Purl Bee says:

February 15, 2018

Hello Polly,
Thank you for reaching out and congratula ons on diving into your first adult
sweater! Your kni ers ins ncts are correct- I would do op on A. Let us know how it
goes and happy kni ng!
-Marilla
reply
Felicia says:
February 17, 2018

Hi, I love this pa ern! I would love to make this in a child size. Is it possible to subs tute
with fingering yarn and smaller needles to make a smaller size?
reply

Carly from the Purl Bee says:

February 19, 2018

Hi Felicia!

Thanks for your ques on! Unfortunately we don’t have this sweater in a children’s
size. I would recommend using a different pa ern wri en for kids to be sure the
propor ons are correct and you’re happy with the finished garment!

Best,
Carly
reply
Diane Jones says:
February 24, 2018

Hi!
I’ve never kni ed a sweater because I am afraid it won’t fit a er all the hard work. But I
love this pa ern! My “fit” concern is that I am a 36-37 on top but a 41-42 at the hips. I
don’t want it to be too ght at the hips…or too baggy at the breast. What do you
recommend?
Thanks!
Diane
reply

Cassy from the Purl Bee says:

March 13, 2018

Hi Diane,

Thanks for reaching out! This can certainly be a challenge but the great thing about
kni ng is that you can alter pa erns to work best for you! It will certainly take a bit
of trial and error to figure out how best to do so, but if you are up for a challenge,
you can give it a go! You can certainly cast on for a larger size on the bo om and
then decrease on the sides down to your chest size. You will want to space out the
decreases to make sense for your body shape! In this case, you will want to cast on
the sleeves for the chest size that you will be kni ng.

Also be sure to note the intended ease! For this sweater, we recommend about 3
1/2 inches of posi ve ease. That is to say that if the measurement around the
fullest part of your chest is 37 inches, you would add 3 1/2 inches to get 40 1/2
inches and choose the nearest size. Here you would choose the medium.

I hope that this helps!

Cassy
reply
Gretchen says:
March 12, 2018

Hi!
I love this pa ern and am trying to find a suitable yarn for it. I know you had
recomended the koigu, or cashmere yarns, but what would you think of the Flax Down,
Far, or cashmere merino blend? I am looking for something super so so that I could
wear the sweater without long sleeves underneath it, but also something moderately
priced (the 6 ply cashmere is more than I want to spend). I’d love to hear your
thoughts!
Thanks!
reply

Marilla from the Purl Bee says:

March 13, 2018

Hello Gretchen,
Thank you for reaching out! All of these op ons will work beau fully and will all be
very so .
Happy kni ng!
-Marilla
reply
karen says:
March 14, 2018

This sweater is great – i am in the midst and loving it. I do have a ques on. I am making
an XL with the pouch. It says to knit to 12 inches from cast on edge and then make the
pouch. But as i am reading ahead, it has me adding the sleeves at 14 inches from CO
edge and i wanted to confirm – my sense is there should be more than two inches from
the top of pouch to underarm. thanks for clarifying.

karen
reply

Julianna from the Purl Bee says:

March 26, 2018

Hi Karen,

Thanks for wri ng in! You are reading the pa ern correctly – since the body length
is the same for all sizes, there are only two inches from the top of the pouch to the
underarms. This is not that far off from the other sizes though, as even the extra
small has only 4 inches from the top of the pouch to the underarms. If you would
like to change this and you have enough extra yarn, the easiest fix would be to make
the body of the sweater longer before joining the sleeves.

I hope that helps!

Julianna
reply
Jennifer says:
March 29, 2018

I am making this sweater in a Medium with the pouch. I am currently working the body
por on prior to star ng the pouch. The instruc ons say to knit un l the body piece
measures 10 1/2 inches from the bo om cast on edge, which I assume is the same
point at which the pouch will be gra ed on to the main body. But reading ahead, the
pouch instruc ons seem to imply I will be only kni ng 44 rows from the start of the
pouch un l the top and the subsequent gra ing to the main body. I am assuming that
the length/number of rows of the pouch (7 + inches/44 rows) should match those of
the main body from the removable s tch marker. Is this correct? If I’m thinking this
through correctly, the main body will be longer than the pouch. FYI… I am a very loose
kni er… Using US #5 needles to achieve correct gauge… 7 rows = 1 inch. I must have
this wrong, but hoping you can clarify when you have a chance to reply. Many thanks
in advance.
reply

Marilla from the Purl Bee says:

April 3, 2018

Hello Jennifer,
Thank you for reaching out! The removable s tch maker should be placed 3 1/4
from your cast on edge, this is where your pouch will be gra ed. This means that
once you have knit un l the body measures 10 /1/2 inches from the cast on edge,
you will be 7 1/4 from where you will be gra ing on your pouch.
I hope this clears things up for you and happy kni ng!
-Marilla
reply
Louize says:
April 4, 2018

Hi, great to see so many other beginners ge ng guidance here. I am just star ng the
pouch (a er 16 a empts to get the body right, so I don’t want to mess up!!).
I have picked up my 94 s tches, now I need to knit row 1 – do I start at the le or right
end of the circular needle to be on the right side? Also, do I use the circular needle to
knit back and forth?
Thanks for your guidance!
reply

Julianna from the Purl Bee says:

April 7, 2018

Hi Louize,

Thanks for wri ng in, we love seeing so many kni ers choosing our Sweatshirt
Sweater for their first project! Now that you have the s tches picked up, with the
right side of the sweater facing you, you will start kni ng at the right needle p,
and you are correct that you will be kni ng back and forth in rows despite being on
a circular needle.

I hope that helps and happy kni ng!

Julianna
reply
Miriah Elliott says:
May 9, 2018

Hi there, I’m working on the body of an XS and just want to make sure I understand
how the pa ern works.

Here are the instruc ons that I’m confused about:

Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two mes, p1, repeat from * to end of
round.

So, am I doing a [p1k2] two mes, p1 – before or a er my beginning of row marker? I

get that I do it a er the marker in the middle of the row, but the repea ng instruc on is
a li le weird. If read literally, it almost makes it seem like you only do the [p1k2] two
mes, p1 once. Please help? Thank you!
reply

Julianna from the Purl Bee says:

May 13, 2018

Hi Miriah,

I think I can help! You will end up with two columns of ribbing, one on each “side
seam” of the sweater. On the previous round you placed two markers in addi on to
the beginning of row marker, so when you work this row, you will knit to the first
addi onal marker, work your 7 ribbing s tches, and then repeat by kni ng to the
next addi onal marker and working 7 ribbing s tches, which will take you back to
the beginning of round marker.

I hope that clears things up!

Julianna
reply
 susanna says:
May 11, 2018

Hi,
The link for the Kitchener S tch doesn’t seem to be working. I click on the pa ern
above and it says that what I am looking for is not found. Help! Thanks,
Susanna
reply

Julianna from the Purl Bee says:

May 14, 2018

Hi Susanna,

Thanks for reaching out! It looks like you found an old link we missed when we
updated our website! We do s ll have the Kitchener S tch tutorial available here,
and we’ll get that link fixed as soon as possible!

Best,
Julianna
reply

Charlotte says:
June 2, 2018

I was wondering if Good Wool would be a good yarn to use. I did a swatch and I get 5
1/2 s tches per inch a er blocking.
Thanks!
reply

Marilla from the Purl Bee says:

June 5, 2018

Hello Charlo e,
Thanks for reaching out- It sounds like you are right on gauge! I think this sweater
will be lovely in Good Wool.
Happy kni ng!
-Marilla
reply

← Older Comments

Leave a Reply
Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked * *
YOUR NAME *

YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS *

YOUR WEBSITE URL

YOUR COMMENT *

SUBMIT >

About Us My Account

Contact + Hours Gift Cards

Shipping Classes + Events

FAQ Project Archives

Hiring Terms of Use

Return Policy Privacy Policy