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Kashmir Handicrafts
Kashmir, the state of India is a country of rich and diverse tradition, beauty,
nature, festivals, colors, fragrances, languages and religions, therefore Kashmi
ri traditional handicrafts promises everything - beauty, dignity, form and style
. The majestic appeal of Kashmiri arts and crafts lies in its exclusivity and my
stical tone which leaves people mesmerized.
Shawls
Kashmiri shawls are made from three fibers they are wool, Pashmina and Shahtoosh
,which is the most famous ring shawl.
Carpets
Carpets are hand woven and knotted they are not machine made. Finishing of the
artwork & material makes carpet expensive.
Wood Work
Wood work is done on walnut and Chinar wood, has a fine texture and smooth grain
patterns.
Silk
Carpets are hand woven and knotted they are not machine made. Finishing of the
artwork & material makes carpet expensive.
Silverware
The work known as naqash is an ancient arts of Kashmir determines the price of the
object, as does the weight.
Papier Mache
Carpets are hand woven and knotted they are not machine made. Finishing of the
artwork & material makes carpet expensive.
Global recession hits Kashmir's cottage industry
Showkat A. Motta, OneWorld South Asia
09 March 2009
Cottage industry in India s Jammu and Kashmir is under severe pressure due to ongo
ing global economic crisis. The state government has assured that all measures w
ill be taken to ensure the welfare of weavers, artisans and small entrepreneurs.
Srinagar: Gloom has descended on thousands of Kashmiri artisans in the wake of e
conomic meltdown that is threatening many a major economy of the world.
Reports say there has been a sharp decline in export of the Valley s exquisite han
dicrafts in the past few months.
Worst hit is the centuries-old hand knotted carpet industry, which employs over
100,000 weavers and annually fetches an estimated Rs 800 crore (Rs 8 billion).
The sale of carpets dropped to Rs 500 crore in 2008. And the industry players fo
recast that the figure would hardly cross Rs 200 crore this year.
Manzoor Wangnoo, 55, is one of the leading carpet exporters from the Valley, who
se clientele includes US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton and the King of Thai
land. He terms the economic recession a tsunami which will sweep away Kashmir's c
arpet industry.
The exports are down by more than 50%. Forget the US and Europe, even in India th
e customers have disappeared. We are in a shock, Wangnoo told OneWorld South Asia
.
But I m more worried about thousands of weavers, dyers and washer men associated wi
th the industry. I have no good news for them and their families, says Wangoo who
owns a chain of showrooms in Srinagar and New Delhi.
Wagnoo s worry is justified. About 25,000 carpet weaving looms are spread across t
he Valley. Alone in Srinagar, the state s summer capital, 20,000 people are involv
ed in post-production stage of the carpets. But many weavers have already downed
shutters in old part of Srinagar, a carpet manufacturing hub, and switched over
to other jobs for livelihood.
One of them is Muhammad Ashraf Butt, 42, who learned carpet weaving from his fat
her three decades ago. In between, he says, there were ups and downs in the trad
e, which however, failed to deter him from carrying on.
But I had to close my three-room loom in November last year as orders had complet
ely dried up. I ve opened a grocery store, Butt said. Somebody told me thousands of
people are being laid off in the US and other parts of the world every day. Who
would buy luxurious items like carpets in such a situation?
Persian origin
Kashmir's carpet industry is believed to have its origin in Persia (present day
Iran). A Sufi saint, Syed Mir Ali Hamdani, who travelled to the Valley in late 1
4th century with many followers some of whom were skilled artisans, introduced i
t, along with Islam.
The industry later flourished during the Mughal rule in Kashmir in 16th and 17th
centuries. The carpets are famous because of their intricate designs and durabi
lity. They are made either from silk or from wool, or sometimes a combination of
both, and the price ranges from Rs 10,000 to Rs 10 lakh.
The global fame of Kashmiri carpets is also because of two things they are handm
ade, never machine made, and they re always knotted, never tufted. The depiction o
f the tree of life is the recurring motif that is found on silk carpets. Other t
hemes are: natural beauty of Kashmir, birds and animal motifs.
The production of a carpet is a protracted process, which can stretch up to two
years. It begins with cultivation and dyeing of silk or wool, deciding the patte
rn of the carpet, and weaving.
Post-weaving process involves washing, trimming and alignment. The person who de
signs a carpet is called Nakaash, while the weaver and the person who does the d
yeing are called Kaleenbaf and Ranger, respectively.
Turmoil hit
Kashmiri handicrafts, including carpets and shawls, were the mainstay of Kashmir
's economy till 1989 when tourists stopped coming to the Valley after the erupti
on of anti-India insurgency. The major markets for these handicrafts were the US
, UK, UAE, Japan, Germany and Canada.
Emergence of cheap carpets from China on the international market and 9/11 attac
ks also hit the exports badly. In 2000, for example, the carpet exports earned m
ore than Rs 600 crore. The sales went down to Rs 300 crore in 2001 following the
attacks in the US.
The Kashmir government, busy with political turmoil, allegedly made little effor
ts to salvage the industry. There was even no check on the vested interests that
used spurious material in carpet manufacturing and brought a bad name to the ent
ire industry, said Muhammad Maqbool Bisati, another leading carpet exporter.
Two years ago the government established Indian Institute of Carpet Technology i
n Srinagar to blend the traditional art of carpet designing with modern digital
technology. Besides, Value Added Tax (VAT) was abolished for the trade in carpet
s.
Government should do more, demands Wangnoo. We managed to run the industry in these
years despite the rising production cost. But after the recession tsunami, it l
ooks improbable to carry on. The recession could prove the last nail in the carp
et industry s coffin if government doesn t intervene.
Government promise
The Kashmir government has, meanwhile, decided to initiate tough measures to pre
vent job losses in the handicrafts sector.
Minister for finance, law and parliamentary affairs Abdur Rahim Rather told the
state Assembly this week government will ensure that the employment opportunitie
s for the weavers, artisans and small entrepreneurs are not affected because of
the economic slump.
He said special plans to lend support to cottage, micro, mini and small enterpri
ses engaged in handicrafts and other such sectors would be formulated to give fi
llip to growth in these vocations and creation of more jobs.
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Wicker-work and basket making are arts common to Kashmir and Jammu.
Kashmir is known for its wicker willow. Wicker is used for making baskets, boxes
, lamp-shades, curtain rings, trays, chairs, tables, and cycle baskets etc. Srin
agar, Harwan, Shalabug, Hazartbal, and Sowra are the centres of its production.
The cultivation of wicker willow is the monopoly of the State .
5. Papier Mache is a monoply of Kashmir. Pulp and paper are shaped into a variat
y of decorative articles and colorful designs are painted on them. The goods pre
pared are mostly boxes, table lamps, toilet sets, jewellery boxes and other arti
cles of decoration. Srinagar, Rainawari and Anantnag are famous for this cottage
industry.