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Sector: CONSTRUCTION
Use the Self-checks, Operation Sheets or Job Sheets at the end of each
section to test your own progress.
When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your
Trainer to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your
Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart.
You need to complete this module before developing the CBLM of the
Learning Outcomes assigned to you.
Date Document No.
Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSAT October 22,
QA Install Built-In/Pre- 2010 Page 2 of 123
Developed by:
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
MODULE CONTENT
PREREQUISITE :
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
Prepare materials, tools and equipment for installing built-in and/or pre-fabricated
cabinets;
Fabricate/assemble built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet ;
and,
Assemble and install built-in and pre-fabricate cabinet components.
· Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules and
regulations
· Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
· Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations
· Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are
set-out in accordance with working drawings and specifications
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
1. Plans and details are correctly identified and interpreted
according to job requirements
2. Materials, tools and equipment are identified and prepared
consistent with job requirements
3. Materials are re-checked for correct specifications to ensure that they are
free from defects; otherwise defects are reported to immediate supervisor
for appropriate action
4. Unexpected situations are dealt with according to company rules and
regulations
5. Appropriate PPE is selected according to safety standards and regulations
CONDITIONS:
You must be provided with the
following:
• WORKPLACE LOCATION
• TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • Hand Saw
• Hammer • Chalk Line
• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• TRAINING MATERIALS
· Leaning Packages
· Bond paper
· Ball pens
· Manuals
· Related References
ASSESSMENT METHOD
· Portfolio
8. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the Sheet No. 4.1-3 on
Types Performance Criteria
of Defects Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
9. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.1-4 on
Classification of Hand
Tools & Equipment and
their Uses
10. Answer Self-Check Compare your answer to the answer key No. 4.1-4
Each item designed for a project is detailed. A plan view, a front elevation
(view), rear elevation, side elevations, sections and enlarged details explain the
design. Dimensions and notes are added to describe construction and finishes.
Some project only requires a few fixtures. The detailing of these will often be
incorporated into other pages of the construction drawings. Trim is shown on interior
wall elevations with the desired profile provided. A floor fixture might be detailed on
the same page as the plan or on another drawing.
The symbol shown in the notes above represents where a finish symbol is
placed. These finish symbols such, as “PL-1” in a rectangle is a reference. A
specification is listed for each in a Finish Schedule. The specification is by
manufacturer, model number, color, size, etc, or as required to describe the item.
Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.
INTRODUCTION
Many beautiful hardwoods are strong. Being strong and naturally beautiful,
they are favored for cabinetwork.
In this section you will learn the types of wood used in cabinetwork and the
characteristics of each type. After studying these characteristics, you should be able
to identify and select the proper wood for a particular job. The most desirable woods
for cabinetwork should:
• Have the ability to keep their shape without shrinking, warping, or
swelling.
• Be easily workable with tools and machinery without causing rough
surfaces
• Be strong, with suitable grain characteristics that are pleasing to the eye
CLASSIFICATION OF LUMBER
Softwoods
Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking. Among these, white pine is one
of the most useful of all. It is also easy to work, because it has a uniform grain and
holds its shape well. White pine is soft, light, and of medium strength. It splits easily
but holds nails fairly well. It also takes glue well. The grain is not prominent;
therefore, it has no particular beauty. For this reason, coupled with its ability to hold
paint, it is most often painted.
Hardwoods
Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets. Their
strength, plus beauty and ability to take clear finishes (varnish and lacquer), makes
them ideal for the finest products of the cabinetmaker.
Date Document No.
Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 12 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
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There are many types of hardwoods; however, we will cover only the principal ones.
Walnut is one of the finest of cabinet woods, because the grain is porous and
varies from straight to irregular. Walnut works well with tools, finishes smoothly, and
holds glue and stain well. It is a hard, strong wood and is easily identified by its dark
heartwood. It is used extensively for plywood, veneers, furniture, and millwork.
Mahogany is not a native wood; therefore, all species are imported. Most
varieties come from Central America, Africa, and India. It is a hard, strong wood;
however, the hardness can vary with the species. Color can vary in shade, but
generally speaking, it is reddish brown. Mahogany has a close, varying grain,
causing a pleasing reflection of light. It is used chiefly for fine furniture, plywood
panels, veneers, and interior finishes.
Oak is a very hard, strong wood with two main species: white and red. Unless
it is carefully seasoned, it will warp and check; however, once it is worked to a finish
it is without rival for strength and beauty. Oak bends excellently, holds nails well,
finishes smoothly, and holds glue satisfactorily. The grain is coarse and porous; and
when quartersawed, the medullary rays are broad and numerous, making pleasing
patterns. It takes stain very well, making beautiful grain contrasts, and is used for
interior finishes, flooring, plywood panels, veneers, and furniture. Oak sometimes is
used in boatbuilding where strength is required.
Plywood
Today plywood is used for thousands of products, and the average
person comes into contact with it every day. It, too, is used extensively in
cabinetwork. Modern plywood
consists of veneers that are
fabricated with glues. In simple
terms, it consists of three or more
layers of thin wood firmly glued
together, with the grain direction
of the middle layer at right angles
to the outer layers. By this means
of fabrication, swelling and
shrinking is reduced and stability
and strength are added, qualities
which would not be found in the
original material.
Before beginning the work of laying out, a complete list must be made of all
the different pieces of lumber needed for a job. Such a list is called “bill of material”
or a “finished-stock list.” It is made out directly from the drawing, which shows the
dimensions of each piece and the method of construction.
A bill of material specifies the wood to be used, lists the number of pieces
needed, gives the exact dimensions for each piece, and names the part of the
construction for which it is to used, such as sides, legs, or top.
For cabinet works the dimensions are given in inches and in the following
order: thickness, width, length. Usually the length is the greatest dimension, but
there are cases that the width is greater the length.
A rough-stock list or a cutting list usually is made from the finished-stock list
by adding 1/8 in. to the thickness, ¼ in. to the width, and ½ in. to the length. This is
to allow for planing and squaring. No allowance is made for plywood.
Figure 4. Pictorial
Drawing of Built-in
Book Shelves
TRUE OR FALSE. Read the statement carefully. Write TRUE if the statement is true
and FALSE if the statement is false. Write your answer on the space provided before
the number.
1. Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking.
Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.
1. TRUE
2. TRUE
3. FALSE
4. TRUE
5. FALSE
Steps/Procedure:
Assessment Method:
Portfolio Assessment
Performance Criteria Checklist
Remarks: __________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
CRITERIA YES NO
1. Can I identify material specification from parts lists from
the actual/physical materials?
2. Are all required materials checked and re-checked
according to job requirement, such as:
1. Dimensions;
3. Type of materials?
Although you can work around some defects such as knots, or cut off defects
such as splits, boards that are heavily twisted, bowed, cupped, or crooked usually
are not usable.
Bow A curve along the face of a board that
usually runs from end to end.
IDENTIFICATION. Read the statement carefully. Identify the type of wood defects
from the given statements. Write your answer on space provided.
10
Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.
1. Blue stain
2. Worm holes
3. Crook
4. Cupping
5. Bow
6. Cracking
7. Split
8. Twist
9. Wane
10. Loose Knot
Equipment:
Steps/Procedure:
CRITERIA YES NO
• Can I identify different defects of wood?
Figure 5. Pencils
Tape Rule
This is essential for fast, efficient
measuring on site work. For this type of
carrying-rule, sizes vary between 2 m
and 10 m. Models with lockable, power-
return blades and belt clips, one of 3.5
m and one of 8 m length are
recommended. Figure 6. Tape Rule
Chalk Line Reel
This tool is very useful for marking straight lines by
holding the line taut between two extremes, lifting at any
mid point with finger and thumb and flicking onto the
surface to leave a straight chalk line.
Marking Gauges
Gauges are used for cutting parallel lines at a
given distance from the edge
Plumb Bob
There is still a use, however limited, for these traditional
plumbing devices. They should, as illustrated, always be
suspended away from the surface being checked and
measured for equal readings at top and bottom. The point is
very useful for plumbing to a mark on the floor.
Sliding Bevel
This is an essential tool for angular work, especially
roofing if using the Roofing Ready Reckoner method.
DRIVING TOOLS
HAMMERS
• Claw Hammer - Although this tool is basically for nailing and extracting nails, it
has also been
widely used over the years by using the
side of the head as an alternative to the
wooden mallet. The claw is also used for a
limited amount of leverage work, such as
separating nailed boards, etc.
· Spiral Pump Screwdriver - can be used as a ratchet. The use of drill bits in
this compact-size pump is an attractive alternative for making speedy pilot
holes. Interchangeable bits are supplied with the whole range of this type of
screwdriver in different sizes.
· Plastic-Handled Screwdrivers - has a well-shaped polypropylene handle
integrated with thermo-plastic elastomeric inserts to provide improved grip
and comfort in use.
RATCHET BRACE
Used for making large holes, it has
wooden head and handle which is fitted in
bearings to turn easily. At the bottom it is
provided with a chuck to hold the bit. The
ratchet positioned above the chuck helps to
rotate the bit in one direction only
BITS
• Twist bits and flat bits - Also referred to as
auger bits used for drilling shallow or deep
(maximum 150 mm) holes of 6–32 mm
diameter.
• Countersink bits - These are for screw-head recessing in soft metal and
timber.
Date Document No.
Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 31 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
• Combined countersink and counterbore bits - Used for drilling a pilot hole,
shank hole and countersink for woodscrews in one operation.
(a) (b)
Figure 29. (a) Powered plane; (b) Cordless plane
Figure 28 (a) Pneumatic Framing Nailer; (b) cordless gas/battery Framing Nailer; (c)
cordless battery-only Finish Nailer
CLASSIFICATION
NAME OF
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT (DRIVING, BORING,
CUTTING, MARKING, TOOL
MEASURING)
1
Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
1. Cabinet location is identified from working drawings and
specifications
2. Cabinet components are fabricated and/or pre-fabricated cabinets are
prepared/assembled according to working drawings and specifications
A. SETTING/LAYING OUT
The wood must first be cut to approximate length, and it is always better to
square off from either a sawn edge or a pencil-line along the length if the planks
are waney. If an incorrect line is drawn—and all measurements should always be
checked and double checked—then it should be cancelled out and a broad arrow
drawn against the corrected measurement. The ends of the plank should be
carefully examined for hidden splits and the first few inches of any plank which has
been stored for any length of time may have to be sacrificed.
Due allowance for working must be made, with 1/4 in (6 mm) on width and
1/2 in (12 mm) on the length for the first rough sawing to dimension unless the
cuts are machine -made and accurate. Customary allowance for planing
(surfacing) sawn thicknesses is usually 3/32 in (2.5 mm) for each finished face.
B. MARKING/LAYING OUT
Face-marks and edge-marks must be bold and should be done with a thick soft pencil. For the first
approximate dimensioning of lengths, etc.
Date Document No.
Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 41 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
a B or HB pencil can be used, but for accurate dimensions at later stages a 2H or
4H is necessary, while shoulder-lines should always be marked with a knife.
Figure 29. Marking a new line (A) and marking the trued edge
C. SAWING OUT
The rip-saw is used for long-grain sawing, the large crosscut or crosscut
panel-saw for cutting across the grain, and the temptation to use the finer tenon-
and dovetail- saws for rough work should be strenuously resisted, for more often
than not the plank will be gritty. A usual tendency on the part of the beginner is to
saw too fast, and in comparison the skilled worker's pace is almost leisurely, but he
will cut more wood in the end and it will be accurate. Every effort should be made to
saw not only on the line but also truly vertical, as this will save not only material but
a great deal of unnecessary work at later stages.
D. PLANING (SURFACING)
Either the fore- or jack-plane is used for the first rough levelling, the try-plane
for true leveling and the finely set smoothing-plane for final surfacing. In planing
wide boards the best or face surface should first be levelled off along, across or
diagonally, according to how the grain works (interlocked grain is best planed
diagonally to prevent tearing out), When the board is out of wind then the try-plane
should be capable of taking fine shavings the full length of the board over the entire
area, to be followed up by the finely set smoothing-plane to ease out any ridges and
roughened patches. When the surface is planed perfectly true and out of wind it
should be marked with a 'face' mark (128B) which should never be omitted from any
piece of prepared wood.
Figure 30.
F. SQUARING ENDS
The shooting-board is used for squaring ends, but if the wood is too wide or
too heavy to be held on the board then the ends will have to be shot in the vice and
checked against a long trysquare. The practice of nicking off the far corner to prevent
the grain splintering out is not to be recommended, and it is advisable to learn how to
use the try-plane in both directions, leading with the left hand, reversing the plane
and leading with the right. An alternative method is to cramp/clamp a block at the far
corner to support the grain, and a similar scrap piece is sometimes necessary when
squaring ends on the shooting-board.
Work on face
Work on edge
Work on end
Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
Jointing methods are designed to hold or lock pieces of wood together, either
in the same plane or in opposing planes, so that the method of attachment is
permanent and strong against loading stresses, thrusts, sudden impact, the wear
and tear of daily use and the constant movement of the wood fibers.
1. Halving joint
• after marking and cutting, the two parts are glued together with final
external surfaces level
3. Mitre joint
4. Dowel joint
· used as substitute for mortise and tenon joint, and securing loose parts to
a product
8. Dovetail
• the best method of jointing two pieces of wood together in their width
and at right angles to each other
IDENTIFICATION. Look at the illustration carefully. Identify the kinds of wood joints.
Write your answer on the space provided.
1. _____________________________
2. ______________________________
3. _____________________________
4. _____________________________
5. _____________________________
Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.
1. Miter Joint
2. Halving Joint
4. Dado
5. dovetail joint
One method of cabinet construction utilizes a face frame. This frame provides
openings for doors and drawers. Another method, called European or frameless,
eliminates the face frame. Face-framed cabinets usually give a traditional look.
Frameless cabinets are used when a contemporary appearance is desired.
Figure 43. Two basic methods of cabinet construction are with a face
frame or frameless
1. Wall Cabinets. Standard wall cabinets are 12 inches deep. They normally
come in heights of 42, 30, 24, 18, 15, and 12 inches. The standard height is 30
inches. Shorter cabinets are used above sinks, refrigerators, and ranges. The 42-
inch cabinets are for use in kitchens without soffits where more storage space is
desired. A standard height wall unit usually contains two adjustable shelves.
2. Base Cabinets. Most base cabinets are manufactured 34 1/2 inches high
and 24 inches deep. By adding the usual countertop thickness of 1 ½ inches, the
work surface is at the standard height of 36 inches from the floor. Base cabinets
come in widths to match wall cabinets. Single-door cabinets are manufactured in
widths from 9 to 24 inches. Double-door cabinets come in widths from 27 to 48
inches. A recess called a toe space is provided at the bottom of the cabinet.
The standard base cabinet contains one drawer, one door, and an adjustable
shelf. Some base units have no drawers; others contain all drawers. Double- faced
cabinets provide access from both sides. Corner units/ with round revolving shelves,
make corner storage easily accessible
3. Tall Cabinets. Tall cabinets are usually manufactured 24 inches deep, the
same depth as base cabinets. Some utility cabinets are 12 inches deep. They are
made 66 inches high and in widths of 27.30, and 33 inches for use as oven cabinets-
Single-door utility cabinets are made 18 and 24 inches wide. Doubledoor pantry
cabinets are made 36 inches wide (Fig. 87-6). Wall cabinets with a 24-inch depth are
usually installed above tall cabinets.
Figure 47. Tall cabinets are manufactured as oven, utility, and pantry
units
Figure 48. Vanity cabinets are made similar to kitchen cabinets, but
differ in size
MATCHING TYPE. Choose from the letters under Column B the answers in Column
A. Write your answer on the space provided.
COLUMN A COLUMN B
Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.
1. b
2. d
3. a
4. b
5. c
The blueprints for a building contain plans, elevations, and details that show
the cabinet layout. Architects may draw the layout. But they may not specify the size
or the manufacturer's identification for each individual unit of the installation. In
residential construction, particularly in remodeling, no plans are usually available to
show the cabinet arrangement.
Computer Layouts
Steps/Procedure:
1. Measure 34 ½ inches up the wall. Draw a level line to indicate the tops of
the base cabinets. Another level line must be made on the wall 54 inches
from the floor. The bottoms of the wall units are installed to this line.
3. Measure at 16-inch intervals in both directions from the first stud to locate
other studs. Drive a finish nail to test for solid wood. Mark each stud
location. If studs are not found at 16-inch centers, try 24-inch, centers- At
each stud location, draw plumb lines on the wall. Mark the outlines of all
cabinets on the wall to visualize and check the cabinet locations against the
layout.
See illustration on the following page.
Assessment Method:
Direct Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did my measurements corresponds to the
measurements on the drawing?
• After laying-out the tops of the base cabinets and
the bottom of the wall units, is the measurement
from the first and second line equal to 19 ½
inches?
• Did I located the studs on the framed wall and draw
plumb lines on the wall?
• Did I marked the outlines of all cabinets on the wall
to visualize and check the cabinet locations against
the layout?
• On the wall, measure from the line representing the outside of the cabinet
to the stud centers
• Transfer the measurements to the cabinets
• Drill shank holes for mounting screws through mounting rails usually
installed at the top and bottom of the cabinet
• Place the cabinet on the supporting strip or stand so its bottom is on the
level layout line
• Fasten the cabinet in place with mounting screws of sufficient length
to hold the cabinet securely
• Do not fully tighten the screws
2b. On masonry walls, first drill holes through the mounting strips. Place the
cabinet in position, and mark the location of the drilled holes on the wall.
Remove the cabinet. Drill holes into the masonry wall for lead inserts. Replace
the cabinet, and screw in place.
3. The next cabinet is installed in the same manner.
• Align the adjoining stiles so their faces are flush with each other
• Clamp them together with C-clamps
• Screw the stiles tightly together
• Continue this procedure around the room
Date Document No.
Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 68 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
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• Tighten all mounting screws
CRITERIA YES NO
• Are all doors and adjustable shelves removed
before installing the cabinet?
• Adjust the pencil dividers so the distance between the points is equal
to the amount the top of the unit is above the layout line
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I started installing the base cabinets in the
corners first?
1. After the base units are fastened in position, the countertop is cut to length. It
is fastened on top of the base units and against the wall. The backsplash can
be scribed, limited by the thickness of its scribing strip/ to an irregular wall
surface. Use pencil dividers to scribe a line on the top edge of the backsplash.
Then plane or belt sand to the scribed line.
2. Fasten the countertop to the base cabinets with screws up through triangular
blocks usually installed in the top corners of base units. Use a stop on the drill
bit. This prevents drilling through the countertop. Use screws of sufficient
length, but not so long that they penetrate the countertop.
1. Use pieces 3/4- or 5/8-inch with width of 24 ½ inches panel material for
the countertop.
2. Place the countertop on the base of the cabinets, against the wall.
Its outside edge should overhang the face frame the same amount the entire
length. Open the pencil divider or scribers to the amount of overhang.
5. Place it back on top of the base cabinets. The ends should be flush with
the end of the base cabinets. The front edge should be flush with the face of the
face frame (as shown below).
Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
• Is the outside edge of the countertop overhang the face
frame the same amount the entire length?
4. Cut the bottom end to the scribed line to fit to the floor.
5. Place the end back in position. Its bottom end should fit the floor. Top
end should be flush and level with the top edge of the top cleat, and its
outside edge plumb.
6. Adjust the pencil dividers to the same distance the outside edge
projects beyond the cabinet bottom. Scribe this amount on the edge
against the wall.
7. Cut to the scribed line.
8. Before fastening the end in position, mark and cut a circular arc out of
the bottom outside corner for the toespace. The top of the cut is
started 1 1/2 inches below the cabinet bottom. The cut is flush with the
face of the toeboard at the floor line.
Date Document No.
Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 78 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
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9. Smooth the cut edge.
10. Fasten the cabinet end in position. Nail into the end of the cabinet
bottom and into the ends of the wall cleats (as shown below).
11. Cut and install the other end in the same manner.
Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
1. Did I fastened the cabinet ends in position?
Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
• Is the top edge flushed with the top side of the
cabinet bottom?
• Did I cut the top rail and drawer rail to the same
length as the bottom rail?
Drawers are classified as overlay, lipped, and flush in the same way as doors.
In a cabinet installation, the drawer type should match the door type.
Drawer Construction
Drawer fronts are generally made from the same material as the cabinet
doors. Drawer sides and backs are generally 1/2 inch thick. They may be made of
solid lumber/ plywood, or particleboard. Medium- density fiberboard with a printed
wood grain is also manufactured for use as drawer sides and backs. The drawer
bottom is usually made of 1/4-inch plywood or hardboard. Small drawers may have
1/8-inch hardboard bottoms.
Drawer Joints
Typical joints between the front and sides of drawers are the dovetail, lock,
and rabbet joints. The dovetail joint is used in higher-quality drawer construction. It
takes a longer time to make, but is the strongest. Dovetail drawer joints may be
made using a router and a dovetail template. The lock joint is simpler. It can be
easily made using a table saw. The rabbet joint is the easiest to make. However, it
must be strengthened with fasteners in addition to glue.
The drawer bottom is fitted into a groove on all four sides of the drawer. In
some cases, the drawer back is made narrower, the four sides assembled, the
bottom slipped in the groove, and its back edge fastened to the bottom edge of the
drawer back.
2. Dado the sides for the back and front of the drawer, 1/4 inch deep as
shown below. The dadoes are cut to the same depth so the front and back can be
cut to the same length.
Overlay drawer sides are dadoed on the front and back ends
4. Rabbet both ends of the false front to fit into the dado in the drawer sides.
Round off and smooth the top edges of all sides, fronts, and back.
5. Make a groove on all parts for the drawer bottom. The width of the groove
should be such that the drawer bottom will slide easily into it without being forced.
The depth of the groove should be about 1/4 inch, if 1/2-inch drawer sides are
used. If the groove is too deep, it will weaken the sides. If the groove is too
shallow, the bottom may fall out after assembly. The distance from the bottom
edge should be about 3/8 inch to the bottom of the groove (as shown below).
6. Glue and fasten the sides to the back. Slip in the bottom. Do not apply glue
to the bottom- Fasten the false front to the sides.
7. Cut and fasten the overlay front to the drawer with screws driven from
the inside. Care must be taken to position the drawer front correctly.
Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I cut the drawer sides to height and
length?
1. Cut the front 5/8 inch over the opening size on both the width and
length.
2. Rabbet the top and bottom edges 3/8”x3/8”.
3. On each end, make rabbets 3/8”X7/8” to allow for the overlap, the
thickness of the drawer sides, and clearance. The depth of the rabbet may
be greater if more clearance is needed (depending on the type of drawer
guide used).
4. Shape the edges and ends of the drawer front as required.
5. Assemble the drawer in a manner similar to that used for the overlay
drawer.
6. The sides are fastened to the rabbeted ends of the drawer front.
Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
1. Did I rabbeted the top and bottom edges to 3/8”X 3/8”?
4. Assemble in a manner similar to that used for other type drawers (as
shown below).
5. After the drawer is assembled, try it in the opening. Fit the drawer front to
the opening by hand planing/ if necessary.
Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I cut the drawer front to the overall height and
width of the drawer opening?
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
1. Hinges
d. Cabinet Hinges. Hinges come in many styles and finishes for every type of
cabinet. Either full-mortise, full-surface, or half-surface hinges are used for
cabinet work. A few of the designs of cabinet hinges are shown in Figure 5.
e. Special Hinges. Many other types of hinges are available. Several are
shown in below.
Hinge hasps are like hinges, except for the leaves. One leaf has screw holes
for fastening the hasp in place. The other leaf is longer with a slot cut near the outer
end. A metal loop, riveted to a square metal base, is used with the hinge hasp. The
base of the loop is fastened in place with four screws. The slot in the long leaf of the
hasp fits over the loop. A hinge hasp is used with a padlock as a locking device. The
long leaf of the safety hasp covers the heads of all screws when it is in the locked
position.
a. Tubular Locks. Tubular locks have all the advantages of mortise locks, but
are much easier to install because they only need bored holes. They are
used mainly for interior doors for bedrooms, bathrooms, passages, and
closets. They are available with a key tumbler lock in the knob on the
outside of the door or with a turn button or push button on the inside.
c. Mortise Locks. Mortise locks are used mainly on front or outside doors for
high security. The present trend is away from using mortise locks because
of the difficulty and time required to install them.
d. Dead Bolts. Dead Bolts are used where added security is needed.
They are constructed of very hard steel.
f. Striker Plate. A striker plate is usually mortised into the frame of the
opening for a lock. It prevents the wood from wearing or splitting and
cannot be pried loose easily.
Cabinet pulls or knobs are used on cabinet doors and drawers. They come in
many styles and designs. They are made of metal, plastic, wood, porcelain, or other
material.
5. Door Catches
Doors without self-closing hinges need catches to hold them closed. Catches
should be placed where they are not in the way, such as on the bottom of shelves,
instead of the top.
Kinds of Catches
• Friction catches. Installed in similar manner to that used for magnetic catches.
Date Document No.
Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 104 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
• Elbow catches. These are used to hold one door of a double set. They are
released by reaching to the back side of the door. These catches arc usually
used when one of the doors is locked against the other.
• Bullet catches. These are spring loaded. They fit into the edge of the door.
When the door is closed, the catch fits into a recessed plate mounted on
the frame.
3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly oversize in
case they are a little off center. This allows the pulls to be fastened easily
without cross-threading the screws. Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are
drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine screws.
4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from scrap wood that
fits over the door. The template can be made so that holes can be drilled for
doors that swing in either direction (as shown below).
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per
working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance
with company rules and regulations?
3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly oversize in
case they are a little off center. This allows the pulls to be fastened easily
without cross-threading the screws. Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are
drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine screws.
4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from scrap wood that
fits over the drawer.
5. Align the template center with the center of the drawer. By using the
template, all that is required to locate holes is to find the center of any width
drawer. The template can be made for use in drawers of different heights (as
shown below).
Assessment Method:
Portfolio Assessment
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per
working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance
with company rules and regulations?
Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per
working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance
with company rules and regulations?
Wood fillers fix mistakes, fill holes and cover imperfections in a piece of
wood or woodworking project. Certain wood fillers work better in a given situation
than others and appear different on separate species of wood. Some wood filler may
also act as a glue or adhesive so that joints appear seamless within a woodworking
project.
Types of Wood Fillers
Epoxy
9. a very hard, durable wood filler that can be used to fill any sized hole from
large and gaping to tiny and minuscule
10.commonly used to fill large spaces since it doesn’t react to heat and cold by
expanding and contracting like other wood fillers
11.generally comes in two parts, in a resin and an adhesive, that mix together to
form a paste.
12.epoxy molds, shapes and stretches easily when wet, making it ideal to build
up, repair or replace extremely damaged or missing areas of wood or
woodworking projects
13.because of its durability and strength, mistakes in patching with epoxy are not
easily resolved
14.epoxy may dry clear, white or in a wood tone depending on the brand and
specific type used.
Putty
• comes in different colors and shades to match the species of wood or stain
used
• should not be used to repair larger holes as it is not as durable as other types
of wood filler
• oil-based wood putty is available for filling small holes such as nail holes and
joints for a finished look, and remains flexible after drying.
Glue
• for small holes or imperfections in a woodworking project, a quick wood filler
is a clear drying wood glue mixed with some fine sawdust
• this method creates a patch that closely or completely resembles the original
wood.
• glue and sawdust should only be used to patch very small holes or damages,
as it will not hold up structurally or look as good on larger holes
Sanding Sealers
• as their name implies, these are used to seal the wood and are made for
sanding
• sanding sealers are made with zinc stearate ( a soap-like material ) which is
added so that the sandpaper will not gum up while sanding
• use after staining and prior to finish clear coat
• sanding sealers are quick drying, allowing for multiple coats in a short period
of time and a quick finishing system
• because of the stearates in them will repel some clear coat finishes
Date Document No.
Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 115 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
____
• latex and polyurethanes in particular will not adhere well to these intermediate
clear coats
• it is important that you use a "system" of stain, sealer and clear coat that is
compatible
Shellac
• although shellac will gum up a little when sanding, it is very quick drying
• other finishes will not adhere to shellac because of the naturally occurring wax
contained in it
Pre-Stain Sealers
· used on soft woods like pine to allow a more uniform and less freckled stained
finish
· be careful with these, you can overseal the bare wood so that it will not take
any stain.
1. Sand Holes
• A nail or screw hole has to be tidied before filler can be applied
• Rotate a flat head screwdriver in the hole to be filled as this will clean it of
any immediate debris
• Use a small piece of sandpaper to gently rub away at the edges of the hole
• Be sure to cut away any loose wood fibers with a Stanley knife or small pair
of scissors
• Ignore this step and a paint layer will have visible edges on the surface after
painting
2. 2. Apply Filler
1. Get a paste-base wood filler and apply it in the neatened hole
2. Spread enough filler into the hole so a small excess will be left above the
surface
3. Sand down excess to leave a perfectly level surface to paint on
4. Do this for all the holes that need filling.
5. Do not use a liquid-based filler, as this is only required for refined grained
wood patterns
3 3. Sand Filler
1. Allow the filler to dry before any attempts are made to sand
2. Use a medium or high grain sandpaper and apply even pressure to the
areas where you have used the wood filler
3. Sand the filler as even to the surface
4. 4. Clean
1. Use a large cloth and some hot water to gently wipe over the surface you
have been working on
2. Alternatively, use a small amount of paint thinner on the cloth to strip away
any flaky areas of paint and woodwork
3. Allow the water or thinner to dry and check that the debris has been cleared
5. Check
1. Run your hand over the top of the surface that will be painted; it should feel
smooth and even over the entire area
2. Sand away any lumps you come across
3. Carefully check the surface for any small holes you may have missed and
apply extra wood filler accordingly.
4. Apply a layer of primer with a large paintbrush and you are ready to paint
once it has dried.
Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I filled all holes and covered wood
imperfections using wood filler?
• Are all top of surfaces covered with wood filler sanded
smooth?
Drawer Guides
There are many ways of guiding drawers. The type of drawer guide selected
affects the size of the drawer. The drawer must be supported level and guided
sideways. It must also be kept from tilting down when opened.
Probably the simplest wood guide is the center strip. It is installed in the
bottom center of the opening from front to back. The strip projects above the bottom
of the opening about 1/4 inch. The bottom edge of the drawer back is notched to ride
in the guide. A kicker is installed. It is centered above the drawer to keep it from
tilting downward when opened.
Figure 72. Simple center wood drawer guide. The back of the drawer is
notched to run on the guide
Another type of wood guide is the grooved center strip. The strip is placed in
the center of the opening from front to back. A matching strip is fastened to the
drawer bottom. In addition to guiding the drawer, this system keeps it from tilting
when opened, eliminating the need for drawer kickers.
Figure 73. the grooved center wood drawer guide eliminates the need of
a kicker.
Figure 74. Rabbeted wood guides are installed on each side of the
drawer.
There are many different types of metal drawer guides. Some have a single
track mounted on the bottom center of the opening- Others may be centered above
or on each side of the drawer. Nylon rollers mounted on the drawer ride in the track
of the guide.
Instructions for installation differ with each type and manufacturer. When
using commercially made drawer guides, read the instructions first before making the
drawer so proper allowances for the drawer guide can be made.