Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
2. Open battery disconnect switch. Remove bat- HIGH NORMAL Watch until amps decrease or
voltage exceeds 28.8 volts. If
tery cable from alternator B+ terminal. amps decrease and volts remain
Refer to Figure 2-2 for the following steps. Meters normal, system is OK. If voltage
exceeds 28.9 volts, regulator and/
should be installed directly at the alternator as shown or alternator defective. Go to
to eliminate variations in readings due to cable Static Test.
lengths etc.:
HIGH HIGH STOP TEST! Regulator and/or
3. Install the ammeter (negative lead) to the bat- alternator defective. Go to Static
tery positive cable removed in step 2. Install the Test.
ammeter positive lead to the alternator B+ ter- LOW LOW 1. Recheck voltmeter leads. If
minal. connections are OK, alternator
and/or regulator defective.
4. Install a voltmeter between the alternator B+
2. Perform Regulator Bypass Test
terminal (positive lead) and the ground terminal per instructions on following page:
(voltmeter negative lead). a. If volts and/or amps
5. Secure all test equipment leads to prevent dam- increase, alternator is OK but reg-
ulator is defective.
age or short circuits when engine is started.
b. If no effect, replace alternator
Reconnect battery disconnect switch.
LOW NORMAL Charging system is OK.
LOW HIGH STOP TEST! If battery and volt-
meter check is OK, regulator and/
or alternator defective.
DEFINITIONS
NOTE: Charge voltage and amp rates vary from B+ voltage is battery positive voltage, but does
battery type to battery type, based on battery not refer to a specific value as does battery volt-
construction technology and physical size of battery. age.
Low amps are the necessary amps that a bat- Surface charge is a higher than normal terminal
tery will take continuously over a period of time voltage a battery has when it comes off a
without damage to the battery when the battery charger or after extended time in vehicle opera-
is in an operating system and is constantly tion. The surface charge must be removed to
cycling. Batteries such as the Group-8D may determine true battery voltage.
accept rates up to 15 amps over several hours
without raising their internal temperature more
than a few degrees. Group-31 batteries may
accept rates up to 5 amps over several hours
with minimal temperature rise.
Remove strap between "R" and "E" terminal. NOTE: Alternator may not be turned on when engine
is operating. Go to "R" terminal test next, to prove if
Connect a 12 gauge jumper wire from the "B+" termi- vehicle "E" circuit will turn alternator on.
nal on alternator to the "E" terminal on alternator.
1. Control Unit
2. “R” Terminal
3. Strap
4. “E” Terminal
5. “B+” Terminal
6. Ground Terminal
Vehicle Charging Circuit Test Is Now Complete: • If meter shows battery voltage, circuit is good.
Continue test.
Remove all jumper wires from alternator used to test
Insert "+" probe of voltmeter into "B" pin in connector.
charging circuit.
Insert negative probe of voltmeter into "B-" pin in
connector. (This is power circuit for voltage regula-
tor.)
Re-test Charging Circuit For Operation With The
Engine Running: • If circuit shows open (no voltage), alternator is
defective. Replace alternator.
Check charging system voltage with engine running.
• If circuit shows B+ voltage, regulator is defective.
If no charge voltage, test for voltage at "E" Replace the regulator, only.
terminal of alternator, with engine running.
NOTE: Turn key and battery switch OFF before
If no voltage on "E" terminal, shut engine installing new regulator. Turn battery switch and key
down and inspect link from "R" terminal to back on AFTER installing new regulator. Continue
"E". test.
Run engine and re-test charging circuit.
Pressure Switch
Check Valve
Check valve (4, Figure 2-5) is installed between the
prelub pump pressure hose and the engine. The oil
flow through the valve (arrow on valve) must be
toward the engine. The check valve prevents back-
flow from the engine back to the prelub pump after
the engine is started. Failure to prevent backflow to
FIGURE 2-8. ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH the pump will result in pump failure.
Check Valve
Verify no internal leakage exists in the check valve
when the engine is running. Check valve leakage
back to the Prelub™ pump will cause extensive dam-
age to the pump.
If check valve replacement is required, ensure the
valve is installed with the arrow pointed toward the
engine, not toward the pump.
Timer Solenoid
FIGURE 2-9. MOTOR COVER Inspect the timer solenoid for physical damage and
to verify wiring is in good condition.
1. Capscrew 2. Cover
System prelubricates continuously regardless of key Indicates prelub timer solenoid contacts have welded.
switch position.
a. Low voltage can cause relay failure.
b. Jump starting of the vehicle with a voltage that
is higher than was designed for the system,
can cause solenoid contacts to weld.
Cranking motor “bounces” when cranking. Check for low or dead batteries.
Check alternator output.
Check for bad ground strap or missing ground wire
from the starter battery ground post to "G" terminal of
starter bendix solenoid.
Check for bad starter safety relays.
System prelubricates, but does not crank. Indication is either a timer failure, or a starter problem.
a. Place a jumper wire to the starter solenoid "S"
post. If the engine starts to crank, replace the
prelub timer solenoid.
b. If the engine fails to crank when the "S" post is
energized with voltage, check out starter ben-
dix solenoid and starter pinion drive.
No prelubrication mode, but cranking still operable. Indicates that a ground connection to the pressure
switch has been broken. Without a ground path, the
prelubrication unit will proceed to crank phase.
a. Check the wire to the pressure switch. If the
wire is removed or cut, replace it.
b. Check the ground strap to engine block. If the
ground strap is missing the block is not
grounded.
c. Check the pressure switch for an open circuit.
Remove the wire, then check for an open cir-
cuit between the switch terminal and the
switch base. If open, replace the pressure
switch.
System has very long prelubrication cycle. Except for severe cold weather starts, the Prelub cycle
should not exceed 45 seconds.
a. Low oil pressure.
b. Make sure oil of the proper viscosity is being
used in respect to outside temperature. (Refer
to engine manufacturer's specifications).
c. Check for suction side air leaks, loose con-
nections, cracked fittings, pump casting, or
hose kinks and blockage.
d. Make sure the suction hose is the correct
diameter. Reducing hose diameter will reduce
pump output, dramatically.
e. Check the oil pressure switch for the correct
location. Be certain that it has not been
moved into a metered oil flow, as in a bypass
filter or governor assembly.
b. Remove the battery cables using the follow- a. Install the battery negative (-) cables first.
ing sequence: b. Install the battery positive (+) cables.
1.) Remove the battery positive (+) cables c. Close the battery disconnect switch.
first.
2.) Remove the negative (-) cables last.
2. Mark wires and cables and remove from motor
(2, Figure 2-7) and solenoid terminals.
3. Remove motor mounting capscrews (1).
4. Remove motor assembly from flywheel hous-
ing.
CRANKING MOTOR
TROUBLESHOOTING
Do not apply voltages in excess of 20 volts.
If the cranking system is not functioning properly,
Excessive voltage may cause the armature to
check the following to determine which part of the
throw windings.
system is at fault:
d. Connect the motor and an ammeter in series
• Batteries- Verify the condition of the batteries,
with two fully charged 12 volt batteries.
cables, connections and charging circuit.
e. Connect a switch in the open position from
• Wiring- Inspect all wiring for damage or loose
connections at the keyswitch, magnetic switches, the solenoid battery terminal to the solenoid
solenoids and cranking motor(s). Clean, repair or switch terminal.
tighten as required. 2. Close the switch and compare the rpm, current,
If the above inspection indicates the starter motor to and voltage reading to the following specifica-
be the cause of the problem, remove the motor and tions:
perform the following tests prior to disassembly to • RPM: 5500 Minimum to 7500 Maximum
determine the condition of the motor and solenoid
• AMPS: 95 Minimum to 120 Maximum
and repairs required.
• VOLTS: 20 VDC
Test
1. With all leads disconnected from the solenoid,
make test connections as shown to the sole-
noid, the switch terminal and the second switch
terminal "G", to check the hold-in winding (Fig-
ure 2-11).
2. Use the carbon pile to decrease battery voltage
to 20 volts. Close the switch and read current.
a. The ammeter should read 6.8 amps max.
3. To check the pull-in winding, connect from the
solenoid switch terminal "S" to the solenoid
motor "M" or "MTR" terminal (Figure 2-12).
Bearing Replacement:
1. If any of the bronze bearings are to be replaced,
dip each bearing in SAE No. 20 oil before
pressing into place.
2. Install wick, soaked in oil, prior to installing
bearings.
3. Do not attempt to drill or ream sintered bear-
ings. These bearings are supplied to size. If
drilled or reamed, the I.D. will be too large and
the bearing pores will seal over.
4. Do not cross-drill bearings. Because the bear-
ing is so highly porous, oil from the wick touch-
ing the outside bearing surface will bleed
through and provide adequate lubrication.
5. The middle bearing is a support bearing used to
prevent armature deflection during cranking.
The clearance between this bearing and the
armature shaft is large compared to the end
frame bearings.
Motor Assembly:
1. Install the end frame (with brushes) onto the FIGURE 2-16. PINION CLEARANCE CHECK
field frame as follows: CIRCUIT
FIGURE 2-17. CHECKING PINION CLEARANCE NOTE: The switch terminals should show continuity
when 24 VDC is applied to the coil terminals,
however high resistance across the internal switch
Magnetic Switch contacts due to arcing etc. could prevent the switch
from delivering adequate current to the cranking
The magnetic switch is a sealed unit and not repair-
motor. If the coil tests are satisfactory, but the switch
able.
is still suspect, it should be replaced with a new part.
Removal
1. Remove battery power as described in Crank-
ing Motor - Removal.
2. Disconnect cables from the switch terminals
and wires from coil terminals (Figure 2-15).
NOTE: If the magnetic switch being removed has a
diode across the coil terminals, mark the leads prior
to removal to ensure correct polarity during
installation.
3. Remove mounting capscrews and washers.
Remove switch from mounting bracket.
4. The switch coil circuit can be tested as
described below.
Installation
1. Attach magnetic switch to the mounting bracket
using the capscrews and lockwashers removed
previously. FIGURE 2-18. MAGNETIC SWITCH ASSEMBLY
2. Inspect cables and switch terminals. Clean as
required and install cables.
3. Install the diode across the coil terminals if
required. Be certain diode polarity is correct.
(Refer to the wiring diagram, Figure 2-7.) Attach
wires from the truck harness to the coil termi-
nals (See Figure 2-15).
4. Connect battery power as described in Crank-
ing Motor - Installation.