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HOW TO PAINT CITADEL MINIATURES Nothing brings a tabletop to life quite like a well painted army of Citadel Miniatures. How often have you wondered ‘How did the painter get that shading effect?’ or ‘How was that texture done?’ ‘To achieve these effects, there are a range of simple tricks and techniques which can be exploited by every miniature painter. In this step-by-step painting guide, renowned fantasy artist John Blanche gives you the benefit of his many years of experience. He explains in detail how to prepare and paint a miniature. If you've never painted a miniature before, this guide will tell you exactly what to do, Even for the more experienced painter, this guide should help you develop and improve your skills. BASIC EQUIPMENT Everyone needs a minimum too! kit: a sharp modelling knife and at least one good needle file. Several companies produce ‘good knives and different blades to fit them. ‘My preference is for a straight-edged fairly short blade. A long blade is more likely to ‘snap, and so should be avoided. Needle files are about 4 - 5” long and are available in a variety of cross-section shapes. ‘The most useful are the half-round, triangular and flat types. You can pick up a knife and files at your local modelling store, where you'll lso be able to find most of the other modelling tools mentioned in this article. You'll need fast setting two-part epoxy glue to attach shields, bases and to assemble multi-part castings. A cocktail stick or old brush handle is required to mix the glue, and you'll need something to mix it on. A note pad or something similar is fine. Only mix alittle glue ata time and use itimmediately. ‘Though they're not absolutely essential for beginners, I also use the following ‘modelling tools: a mounting needle (along pin will do), a pin-vice and Imm bit, 2 selection of lengths of wire, and a pair of pliers, In addition, it’s useful to have a tube of superglue to hand, a pack of two part epoxy putty, and, if there’s any major conversion work to be done, a small hacksaw or jeweller’s saw. ‘Se wet, piers aed ad ae 2 ‘rum attempting a colour scoons ike is yow sbouid bave ‘tad tftecl ounce, eras ft can end poking tite These ofonrasting nour, red ad geen Innate pes e! evenly rns the Sato ie Tis Chat Sonera sono bead sh pid del te An expe of nll ended ce and trie ‘aio te Seo (Good shading Brings out del and exe forme te ft Abul CNB been poimed primarily a one colour Bright colouring gives obiz Etaar ie ‘lara Not tue of hain the Ieee. heron oor mene ‘Te chainmail ons ight cold hare een Pointed Black ond then drbraed with ‘hanna and neers Blak In ash oer bane mew! wo ace ‘tein of Gates ac pinta BRUSHES Cheap, old and worn brushes are fine for applying undercoat, and can even be used for some of the advanced techniques such as drybrushing, washing and varnishing (al of which are explained later), Even when aa brush has passed this stage of usefulness, the handle can be used to stir paint and the brush can apply cement or smooth filler. ‘To apply colour, and for detail work, you'll need good quality brushes. Not only does a good brush give better results, itis also ‘more pleasant to use. The best brushes, such as Citadel Brushes, are made from good quality sable hait. Any good art suppliers should have a selection of sable brushes. Citadel Brushes, available from Games Workshop stores and better hobby shops, are numbered from size 000 (finest) to size 3 (largest). Each of the brushes has a particular use: 000 Forvery fine detail -in particular, for black-lining edges, picking out ‘equipment and painting eyes. 00. Fordetailed brushwork and for small areas of blending such as on a face, banner or shield design. (0&1 For medium areas of blending and shading, and for applying base colours to small areas. 2 For lange areas of base colours and small to medium areas of

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