HOW TO PAINT
CITADEL
MINIATURES
Nothing brings a tabletop to life quite like a well painted army of Citadel Miniatures. How often
have you wondered ‘How did the painter get that shading effect?’ or ‘How was that texture done?’
‘To achieve these effects, there are a range of simple tricks and techniques which can be exploited
by every miniature painter.
In this step-by-step painting guide, renowned fantasy artist John Blanche gives you the benefit
of his many years of experience. He explains in detail how to prepare and paint a miniature.
If you've never painted a miniature before, this guide will tell you exactly what to do, Even for
the more experienced painter, this guide should help you develop and improve your skills.
BASIC EQUIPMENT
Everyone needs a minimum too! kit: a sharp
modelling knife and at least one good
needle file. Several companies produce
‘good knives and different blades to fit them.
‘My preference is for a straight-edged fairly
short blade. A long blade is more likely to
‘snap, and so should be avoided.
Needle files are about 4 - 5” long and are
available in a variety of cross-section shapes.
‘The most useful are the half-round,
triangular and flat types. You can pick up
a knife and files at your local modelling
store, where you'll lso be able to find most
of the other modelling tools mentioned in
this article.
You'll need fast setting two-part epoxy glue
to attach shields, bases and to assemble
multi-part castings. A cocktail stick or old
brush handle is required to mix the glue, and
you'll need something to mix it on. A note
pad or something similar is fine. Only mix
alittle glue ata time and use itimmediately.
‘Though they're not absolutely essential for
beginners, I also use the following
‘modelling tools: a mounting needle (along
pin will do), a pin-vice and Imm bit, 2
selection of lengths of wire, and a pair of
pliers, In addition, it’s useful to have a tube
of superglue to hand, a pack of two part
epoxy putty, and, if there’s any major
conversion work to be done, a small
hacksaw or jeweller’s saw.
‘Se wet, piers aed ad ae 2
‘rum attempting a colour scoons ike is yow sbouid bave
‘tad tftecl ounce, eras ft can end poking
tite
These ofonrasting nour, red ad geen
Innate pes e! evenly
rns the Sato ie
Tis Chat Sonera sono bead
sh pid del te
An expe of nll ended ce and trie
‘aio te Seo(Good shading Brings out del and exe
forme te ft Abul CNB
been poimed primarily a one colour
Bright colouring gives obiz Etaar ie
‘lara Not tue of hain the
Ieee. heron oor mene
‘Te chainmail ons ight cold hare een
Pointed Black ond then drbraed with
‘hanna and neers Blak
In ash oer bane mew! wo ace
‘tein of Gates ac pinta
BRUSHES
Cheap, old and worn brushes are fine for
applying undercoat, and can even be used
for some of the advanced techniques such
as drybrushing, washing and varnishing (al
of which are explained later), Even when
aa brush has passed this stage of usefulness,
the handle can be used to stir paint and the
brush can apply cement or smooth filler.
‘To apply colour, and for detail work, you'll
need good quality brushes. Not only does
a good brush give better results, itis also
‘more pleasant to use. The best brushes, such
as Citadel Brushes, are made from good
quality sable hait. Any good art suppliers
should have a selection of sable brushes.
Citadel Brushes, available from Games
Workshop stores and better hobby shops,
are numbered from size 000 (finest) to size
3 (largest). Each of the brushes has a
particular use:
000 Forvery fine detail -in particular, for
black-lining edges, picking out
‘equipment and painting eyes.
00. Fordetailed brushwork and for small
areas of blending such as on a face,
banner or shield design.
(0&1 For medium areas of blending and
shading, and for applying base
colours to small areas.
2 For lange areas of base colours and
small to medium areas of