Basic Glass Fusing & Slumping Workshop

This is a 2 day workshop starting Saturday morning at 9 am and runs until all are tired on Saturday or up to 7
pm. Sunday starts at 9 am and runs until all are tired or up to 6 pm.

Lunch break is 1 hour. You may bring your lunch or there are several close regular and fast food restaurants.

Coffee, tea, soda, & water are provided at no charge.

We have a refrigerator and a microwave which may be used by those who bring their own food.

Class Goals
This Basic Glass Fusing & Slumping Class will provide the student with more than general knowledge of glass
and how it behaves, glass choice/design, mold choice/preparation, fusing process, slumping process, kiln
preparation for fusing/slumping, kiln programming using a digital controller, and when or if a kiln ventilation
system is needed.

Attendees chose their own projects to make during the class; the average is 5 different items ranging from
jewelry to platters. All materials are provided as part of the class.

Attendees are provided with a notebook with detailed information about the class and several inserts of
important information.

This class consists of approximately 30% lecture time and 70% student hands on time.

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BULLSEYE GLASS IS PROVIDED AS PART OF THE CLASS

MOLDS IS PROVIDED AS PART OF THE CLASS

ALL HAND TOOLS ARE PROVIDED AS PART OF THE CLASS

If you have your own hand tools and would prefer using them you may bring them.

ALL ELECTRICAL TOOLS ARE PROVIDED AS PART OF THE CLASS

Grinders – Ring Saw – Wet Blade Saw – Diamond Lap
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Tuition is: $350

This class will be held at:

Centre DeVerre
112 Granite Street
Allenstown, NH 03275
603-485-8344
800-958-5319

Class outline follows below

 Basic Glass Fusing & Slumping
Two Day Workshop Outline
Saturday
Studio Safety
Handling Glass
Cutting – Grinding – Diamond Pads/Files – Sawing Eye Hazard With Use
Ì Try flipping the grinding head over, will double the life
Hand Tools
Running Pliers – Grozing Pliers – Pistol Glass Cutter – Pencil Glass Cutter – Tile Nippers Eye Hazard With Use
Ì Oil Ì Oil or No Oil
Electrical Tools
Maintenance
Electrical Safety
GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter)

Glass Chemistry
Glass is not just glass!
Each brand and type of glass has specific characteristics special unto itself.
The characteristics you need to be familiar with are briefly outlined below.

First: “Coefficient of Expansion” (C.O.E.)

For each degree of temperature change, hotter or colder, glass expands and contracts. Each type of glass has a
specific C.O.E. and cannot be fused with a glass with a different C.O.E. – the fused glass will break due to the stress
of the different glasses trying to move at different rates of expansion and contraction.
Bullseye = 90 Spectrum = 96 Uroboros = 90 & 96 Float = 82 Moretti = 10 Bottle = 90 Borosilicate (Pyrex) = 32

Glass Compatibility Testing (See Insert in the Appendix)

Second: “Softening Point”.
Glass has a specific softening point temperature. The Softening point temperature will vary from color to color and
from transparent and opaque. Example: Black glass softens faster than white, transparent usually softens faster
than opaque glass. You can still fuse/slump different colors together but you will need to adjust time and
temperature accordingly – you will learn these techniques as you work with different glasses.

Third: “Strain Point”

The strain point temperature is just below the annealing temperature and is the point where the glass solidifies. The
remaining stress / strain is not likely to change after passing through this temperature and the glass should be stable.
Use Stress-O-Meter. Danger point with any glass in kiln is between 700 °F – 1000 °F.

Forth: “Annealing”
When glass is heated in a kiln its physical structure is changed on the atomic level. The atoms which hold
glass together will be pulled apart and pushed together causing stress / strain. Annealing is the process which
removes the strain / strain created during kiln firing and is accomplished during the Cooling Phase. When glass is
allowed to set at its annealing temperature for a period of time the atoms relax returning to their native state thus
relieving the stress. If glass is not annealed it is subject to breakage from physical or thermal shock.

Stiffness Variations Due to Color of the Glass

Firing Considerations

Glass Project Selection

Design Concepts
For Self
For Target Group to Sell Finished Product To
Age – Gender – Ethnic – Gay – Economic - Religious
Color Books & Bullseye Color Ques
Think outside the box (Small plates vs. Large Plates)
A Craft Seen Thorough a Fine Art Eye a.k.a. Finding Your Artistic Identity
Glass Selection Page 2 of 7
Transparent (Cathedral)
Solid Colors, Opaque, Opal
Translucent (Opaque but light easily passes through)
Iridized (Opalescent)
Dichroic
To Cap - Not to Cap - Dichroic Reverse Cap for Depth – Use clear Dichroic with caution

Multi-Color - Streakies – Mardi Gras – Streamers & Fractures

Textured - Some textured glass has memory, you may not fuse the texture completely out, you may feel it or see it in the glass.

Glass Firing Considerations

Striking – Maturing – Irid to Irid – Regular Stained Glass – Varying Thickness – Zippers – Texture Memory
Ì Color Change Ì Shade Shift & Fill In of Color
Glass Preparation
Cleaning (Finger Prints – Label Glue – Paint & Ink Marks – Grinding Debris)
Glass must be clean and dry. Any dust, fingerprints, glue, smudges, or other surface contaminants may
show on the glass after fusing or slumping.
Glass must be completely dry. Moisture will turn to steam when heated and may create air bubbles.

Alcohol (Isopropyl only one to use) Respiratory Hazard With Use

Water (Hard & Soft Water) NO Soap

Lacquer Thinner Respiratory Hazard With Use

Never use Windex or other glass cleaners

Glass cleaners and some solvents must be completely removed after using to clean glass; many
leave a film on the glass which produces a blemish on the glass when fired.

Cotton Gloves
I wear cotton gloves when I clean glass so I will not leave fingerprints - make sure the gloves are clean
and that you have not handled materials which may leave a contaminant on the glass. During this final
cleaning phase is when I assemble the item in the kiln.

Scratches (Will not fire out)

Basic Fusing Concepts
The fusing process consists of 3 phases:
1st = Heating Phase Heating the glass up to a certain soaking temperature (May be single or multi-step)
2nd = Soaking Phase Sitting at a specific temperature for a specified time period
3rd = Cooling Phase Sitting for a specific time period at a specified temperature (May be single or multi-step)

There are 3 primary levels of fusing:

First Level: This is commonly referred to as a TACK FUSE. This is when two or more pieces of glass are heated to a
point where they bond together as if glued – they do not change shape or thickness.

Second Level: This is commonly referred to as a COMPLETE FUSE. This is when two or more pieces of glass are heated
to a point where they bond together having the appearance of a single piece of glass – they do not change
shape but they do become thinner than the individual glass pieces when they were stacked and the edges
are round down. You may feel or see a raised area on the surface where you have a piece of glass or frit
which is sandwiched between two pieces of glass.

Third Level: This is commonly referred to as a FULL FUSE. This is when two or more pieces of glass are heated to a
point where they become liquid and they bond together having the appearance of a single piece of glass and
they change shape becoming thinner than the original individual glass pieces when they were stacked. You
 Page 3 of 7

may dam the glass to retain shape and thickness. If colored glass is used it may become lighter in shade
with the edges less defined because they has melted into the other glass present. You will NOT feel or see a
raised area on the surface where you have a piece of glass or frit which is sandwiched between two pieces
of glass.

Flash Venting to Quick Cool to 1000 °F

Fire Polishing
In kiln (flat – in mold)
Torch the item while in kiln when the glass is at 1000° F using a reverse (negative) mold. This will be demonstrated.

Do you Need To Cut for a Specific Shape Square = Round Rectangle = Oval Triangle = Tear Drop

Firing Log - Recipe Sheets - Firing Schedule (Always list glass code number )

Glass Kiln Wash (do not use ceramic kiln wash – it will not work) (Primo Primer – Jen Ken – Bullseye) Respiratory Hazard With Use

Boron Nitride Spray

Shelf Paper TFSP – 1/32” Paper – 1/16” Paper - 3mm Paper (1/8”) – 6mm Paper ( ¼”) Respiratory Hazard With Use

Fiber Blanket Respiratory Hazard With Use – Skin Irritation

Fiber Board (Duraboard) – Kaiser Lee – Vermiculite Respiratory Hazard With Use
Does not retain heat thus and may heat and cool faster than ceramic kiln shelf with less chance to thermal shock glass

Lava Cloth (Time / Temperature relationship determines number of firings)

Ceramic Kiln Shelf (Usually made of a clay called Mullite) (Time / Temperature relationship determines number of firings)
Retains heat must heat and cool slowly or will thermal shock glass – If not flat can cause bubbles

Graphite Kiln Shelf Respiratory Hazard With Use

Glass does not stick to graphite, thus you do not have to kiln wash graphite shelves – Has never really worked well

Advanced Fusing Concepts

Manipulation Raking / Feathering / Combing / Shaping Hot glass in the kiln – Bracelets - Voltives)
How it is done
Safety Gear & Clothing

Damming
When doing complete or full fuse you may place the glass into a form, dam, to retain a particular shape if you do not wish
any distortion or thinning of the glass. Damming may also be use to obtain a specific shape, much like a mold.

Casting
Plaster Type Mold - Box Type Mold
Pate de verre - Dalle de verre a.k.a. Faceted glass or slab glass
Color Bars

Bas Relief
Multi-Generation Tile
Jewelry Making
Architectural
Mosaics – Tile (Back Splash Not Counter Top)
Tables – Sinks - Room Divider – Shower Doors – Windows
Dalle de verre a.k.a. Faceted glass or slab glass
Federal Uniform Building Codes may need to be met & each piece certified for safety
Some items may need UL approval (This will have an initial cost of approx: $5000.00 plus an on going $2000.00 per year cost)
Product Liability Insurance Is a Must
Contemporary Projects (odd shapes – random patterns – geometric patterns) Page 4 of 7

Inclusions (Metal – Mica Chips & Powder – Synthetic Opal (Gibson)– Granite – Gold & Silver Leaf/Foil)

Basic Slumping Concepts & Mold Preparation

Slumping
Slumping is heating glass to a point to where it is soft enough to slump into and take the shape of a mold by gravity.

Slumping at a fast temperature rate, faster than 300 degrees F per hour may cause dragging distortion because of irregular
heating of the glass and differences in thickness of the glass.

Slumping and fusing usually is not done as a single step. If you are using multiple pieces of glass you should fuse then
slump with a second firing. During the slumping the glass is soft and may take up texture from uneven kiln wash or brush
marks from the kiln wash on the mold – you may want to be sure that the mold is smooth before slumping.

Most forms must have kiln wash applied to them just like the kiln shelf.

Sagging
Sagging is a term not used much now. It refers to glass sagging by itself like honey dripping off a spoon. Sagging is done
when glass sags through a drop ring mold, hanging free (sagging). Slumping is the term when glass slumps into or over a
mold. However, now it seems that slumping is used interchangeably with sagging.

Mold Selection
Ceramic
Air Vent Holes & Toothpicks
Biskware – Greenware – Stilts For Solid – Drill Holes
Metal
Stainless steel works well for molds. Regular stainless steel bowls, plates, and cups are routinely used as slumping
molds. Remember that you will need to drill air vent holes in the bottoms to allow the glass to take the full shape of
the mold.

The stainless must also have kiln wash applied to it to keep the glass from sticking to the metal. Applying the kiln
wash is easy after you get the hang of it. Heat the stainless to about 150 degrees F and then applying the kiln wash
works best. I set the stainless steel item on the top of the kiln when the kiln is heating for some project. The stainless
must be perfectly clean and dry. Then apply the kiln wash and allow it to dry while setting on top of the kiln, this is
a couple of minutes. If the stainless is too hot the kiln wash will not adhere uniformly.

After the holes and kiln wash is applied the stainless steel mold is ready to use. You may only get one firing with the
stainless steel mold before you need to reapply kiln wash.

Boron Nitride Spray as a release instead of kiln wash.

Graphite
Glass does not stick to graphite, thus you do not have to coat graphite molds with kiln wash. Graphite oxidizes with
each firing and leaves a powder residue which is somewhat messy but it does not stick to glass. Mold cannot have
sharp edges and needs to be tapered otherwise glass will break during cool down due to different C.O.E.

Home Made Molds - You can make your own molds from the materials listed above.
Distortion of Glass Shape Due to Mold
Glass not centered – different colors used in glass – not kiln washed properly

Kiln Firing Concepts

Ramp Rate (time to temp or deg/hour) – Soak Temperature – Soak Time – Annealing vs. Controlled Cool Down
You can fire jewelry, tile, and casts at the same time in the same kiln
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Sunday
Final Touches to Finishing Your Project
Cold Finishing
 Cutting With A Ring Saw (Do not apply a lot of tension) Page 5 of 7
Grinding & Polishing On A Lap Wheel (Suction cup if flat on diamond lap)
Grinding With Standard Diamond Glass Grinder
Shaping With a Standard Grinder or Saw
Eye Safety Is A Must

Framing
Wood
Metal

Multimedia will ALWAYS increase value; because it increases the customer base
Display
Best Background (Hunter Green or Light Grey)
Use diffuse lighting
Halogen Lighting

Documenting (Protecting Intellectual Property)

Drawings (Engineer Note Book – Date & Sign)
Photographs (Date & Sign)
Copyright symbol ©
Trademark (Cease ™ or Get Money ®)
Signing Your Work

Trouble Shooting
Bubbles & Holes all the way through the glass (Moisture or Mechanical due to non-flat kiln shelf)
Bubbles & Holes inside the glass (Texture - Moisture – Irid)
Bubbles & Craters on the surface (1510 °F, 10 – 15 minuets)
How to keep from getting air bubbles when capping
How to intentionally make bubbles (Reed Glass) (Glass Stringer) (Baking Soda) (Water)

Devitrification Causes Or is it REALLY Devitrification

Too Fast – Too Slow – Too Hot - Too Long
Some glass does not play well

Devitrification Solutions
Change Firing Schedule
Change To A More Friendly Glass
Super Spray Respiratory & Eye Hazard With Use
Spray “A” Respiratory & Eye Hazard With Use NOTE: This product contains lead & cadmium and should not be used on food surfaces.
Sandblast (Can increase value of piece)
Edges after grinding – Use fine Diamond Pads to reduce coarseness

Removing Kiln Wash From Glass (Time / Temperature relationship determines number of firings)
Sandblast Respiratory Hazard With Use
CLR Respiratory & Skin Hazard With Use
Lime Away Respiratory & Skin Hazard With Use
Hot Line Wash-Away

Cracked Glass
Thermo Shock (“S” curve crack) & (fused in going up & not touching in coming down)
Incompatible (spider web)
Not Annealed (sunburst pattern from center to the outside)
10” or larger cool down slow if using kiln shelf
Repair by firing to 1510° F, 10 – 15 minuets
Kiln Concepts Page 6 of 7
Manual Controller
Off / On Switch
Infinite Control Switch
Pyrometer (Thermometer) = Temperature Display & Thermocouple = Measures the temperature
Kiln Sitter (This is semiautomatic and is usually on ceramic / pottery kilns)
Digital Controller
Elements
Top vs. Side vs. Both Top & Side
Kanthal-A1 elements are the standard coil type (Old type elements were NiChrome – Green_
Encased (Fiber Product - Quartz Tube)

Relays
Clicking - Life Span

Electrical Draw vs. Electrical Requirement (80% Circuit Breaker Requirement)

Electrical Cost of Operation

Safe Kiln Operation
Location
NEVER put kiln flat on ANY surface ALWAYS use Kiln Stand You MUST have Air Circulation under kiln
NEVER Use an Extension Cord
Power Disconnect Switch
Power Distribution Switch or Power Transfer Switch (On – Off – On)
Kill Switch
NEVER FIRE A KILN UNATTENDED

Kiln Ventilation System - When Needed

Petroleum Based Glass Paints / Enamels Neuro Toxin Hazard With Use
Petroleum Based Lusters Neuro Toxin Hazard With Use
Shelf Papers

Types
Hood (Worst)
Plate Mount (Not sold anymore)
Stand Mount (Not sold anymore)
Floor or Wall Mount (Best)

Uniformity of Heat
Element Color
See technical notes in this packet for procedure to test kiln uniformity

Kiln Selection - Size & Price

Brick – Fiber – Hybrid
Top Load vs. Front Load
What are you going to make?
Price per square inch of kiln shelf space – Hassle factor, more firings, ease of use

Kiln Shelf (Torpedo Level – Position on kiln shelf diagonally toward legs of metal stand)

How to Price Your Finished Art Pieces

Glass Cost
Wear & Tear & Up Keep of non-kiln equipment
Time Spent Making Pieces
Kiln firing time
Expensing the cost of the kiln purchase Page 7 of 7
Cash Cow vs. Middle Priced vs. High End Art Pieces (Artistic Value)
Packaging
How to Sell Your Finished Art Pieces
Craft Stores
Consignment (Payment problems – Breakage – Theft – Out of Business)
Exclusive Rights

Gift Stores
How to pick store
Seasonal Buying

Broker / Sales Representative (Not a good for artists – not effective & they charge too much)

Web Site
EBay
Web Based Stores (www.wholesalecrafts.com – etc.)
Trade Shows
Magazines & Catalogs (See listing on next page)
Buy Space – Purchase – Drop Ship – Large Quantity Capability – Returns

Limit the variations of your finished product - Too many choices and customer will NOT buy because they cannot make a decision
Offer exclusive designs

Marty Daily
Centre DeVerre, LLC
April 25, 2005