PROPERTIES OF FIBERS

Introduction of Fibers:
 A fiber is an individual, fine, hairlike structure.
 Fibers have a comparatively high ratio of length to width, thus ensuring the flexibility
required for manufacturing and end use.
 Differences among the textile fibers result from their different chemical compositions,
the arrangement of their molecules, and their external features (e.g., shape).
 Fibers usually are grouped and twisted together into continuous strands called yarns.
The yarns are then used to make various textile materials (e.g., woven fabrics, knitted
fabrics, lace).
 Fibers can also be used directly to make a fabric without first being made into yarns.
Felt and nonwoven materials (e.g. interfacing) are two examples of fabrics made
directly from fibers.

a. Sources:

Fibers are classified into those found in nature, called natural fibers, or those that are
manufactured through the use of science and technology. Manufactured fibers are designed to
resolve particular problems and answer specific needs.

Natural Fibers
 Natural fibers are obtained from plants or animals. Plant fibers may come from stems
(e.g., flax, hemp, jute, ramie), leaves (e.g., sisal, abaca), or seeds (e.g, cotton, kapok)
of plants.
 Animal fibers (e.g., wool, cashmere, mohair, vicuna) protect people against the cold
the same as they do animals. Silk is considered an animal fiber, although it comes
from the cocoon of a silkworm rather than a mammal's fur.

Manufactured Fibers
 Manufactured, or man-made, fibers are made from chemical solutions that are forced
through tiny holes, similar to water passing through a shower head.
 The device used to form the filaments is called a spinnerette. It can be as small as a
thimble or as large as a plate, with tiny holes on the top or flat surface area.
 The fine liquid streams of solution that are forced through the holes are hardened into
continuous strands called filament fibers. This action is copied from nature. The
silkworm extrudes streams of silk liquid, which harden into filaments on contact with
the air.
 The number of holes in the spinnerette, as well as their shape and their size, varies
according to the filament fiber and yarn desired. A small spinnerette has as few as 10
holes, and a large one can have more than 10,000.
Different techniques are used to harden the liquid streams and produce the filament fibers.
The technique used depends on the chemical composition of the solution.
The more commonly used methods are :

 Dry spinning
 Wet spinning
 Melt spinning
Dry spinning method:
The fiber solution, mixed with a solvent, is forced through the spinnerette into warm air. The
warm air helps evaporate the solvent, and the liquid stream then hardens. Acetate and
modacrylic fibers are made in this manner.

Wet spinning method:

The solution is forced through the spinnerette and then into a liquid solution in which the
fiber solution streams harden into continuous filaments. Acrylic fibers well as viscose rayon
fibers are made with this method.

Melt spinning method:

A solid material is melted to form a liquid solution that is forced through the spinnerette and
into cool air, where the liquid fiber streams harden into continuous filaments. Glass, nylon,
polyester, and olefin fibers are made in this way.

b. Structure

Fiber Length

Fiber Shape

Physical
Fiber Surface
Attributes

Fiber Fiber
Structure Chemical Configuration
Compositi
on and Fiber
Molecular Diameter
Formation

Fiber Length
 Fibers vary from less than one inch to miles in length. Fibers whose lengths are
measured in inches are called staple fibers. Fibers of longer length are called filament
fibers.
 Silk is the only natural fiber that is found in filament form. It is usually about 1,600
yards (1,463 m) long.
 All the other natural fibers vary in length, from about ½ inch to 36 inches.
 Cotton is usually ½ to 2 ½ inches, flax is usually 2 to 36 inches, and wool is usually 1
to 18 inches.
 All manufactured fibers are produced originally as filament fibers. Sometimes they
remain as such, but often they are made into shorter-length staple fibers from 1 ½ to 6
½ inches. The process frequently involves crimping the filament fibers and then heat-
setting to maintain the crimp configuration.
  Thousands of the filaments are sometimes grouped to form a thick rope called tow
and are then cut or broken into the required lengths before being twisted into yarns.
 Some manufactured fibers, such as spandex, are always used as filament fibers.
 Other manufactured fibers, such as acrylic for apparel, are almost always made into
staple fibers.
 When making filaments that are later to be cut into short pieces, large spinnerettes
with many holes are used in order to obtain high production. Small spinnerettes are
used when making filaments for filament yarns because the number of holes in the
spinnerette must equal the number of filament fibers that the particular filament yarn
will contain.
 This is a basic reason why staple fibers are less expensive per pound than comparable
filament fibers.

Fiber Shape
 When viewed with the naked eye, all fibers look very similar. When viewed under a
microscope, however, fibers varying configurations are visible.
 The microscopic cross-sectional shape of the fiber and the surface construction
determine the bulk, texture, luster, and hand of the fiber.
 Fiber's cross-sectional shape influences the way light is reflected from the surface.
 A flat-surfaced fiber has more luster than a round one. A round fiber reflects light in
one general direction. A multilobal-shaped fiber tends to scatter the light, causing a
diffuse glow with sparkles (glitter).
 The sparkles are caused by bright spots from the light reflected from the tips of the
rounded lobes.
 An irregular cross-section scatters light in many directions, resulting in a dullish
appearance with few highlights.
 Round fibers, such as wool, result in bulkier fabrics because they do not pack as much
as flat fibers, such as cotton.
 Round-shaped, rodlike fibers, such as nylon, offer a smoother, more slippery hand
than wool, which has a round shape but a scaly surface.

Fiber Surfaces
 The surfaces of fibers vary. For example, they can be smooth, rough, slightly grooved,
deeply channelled, or wrinkled.
 Wool fiber is scaly, cotton is smooth, and rayon is serrated. The fiber surface affects
such properties as hand, lustre, and wicking.

Fiber Longitudinal Configuration

 Lengthwise, fibers have varying configurations. They may be straight, twisted, coiled,
or crimped. Cotton fiber, for example, is naturally twisted, whereas nylon fiber is
fairly straight.
 Various performance properties – such as resiliency, elasticity, and abrasion
resistance – are affected by fiber longitudinal configuration.
 Crimp refers to the bends and twists along the length of a fiber. Greater crimp
increases resiliency, bulk, warmth, elongation, absorbency, and skin comfort.
 However, hand becomes harsher and lustre is reduced as crimp increases. Crimp
allows the fiber to stand off the skin so fabric will not cling to the wearer's skin.
 Crimp is inherent in wool fibers. Although it is not inherent in manufactured fibers.
Crimp can also be added after the yarn has been produced by a process called
texturing.
Fiber Diameter
 Fiber diameter refers to the thickness of the fiber.
 Thicker fibers result in greater stiffness, which improves wrinkle resistance but can
also result in an undesirable roughness.
 Large-diameter fibers result in bulkier fabrics because they do not pack as well as thin
fibers. Fine-diameter fibers can result in fabric that is sheer, light-weight, and
generally more drapable and softer to the touch than fabric of thicker fibers.
 The size of the diameter of natural fibers varies depending on fiber type.
 Natural fibers grow irregularly and do not have uniformity along the length.
Manufactured fibers are uniform along the length and are available in a range of fiber
diameter controlled by the producer

Chemical Composition and Molecular Formation

 Fibers are classified into various groups by their chemical composition. Fibers with
similar chemical makeup are placed in the same category. Cotton and flax are placed
in the same category—cellulosic fiber—because both are natural cellulose. Cotton,
wool, and polyester, however, are each in a different category—cellulosic, protein,
and synthetic, respectively.
 Although fibers in the same category have similar properties, they can also have
different properties. For example, polyester and acrylic synthetic fibers are both
resilient (wrinkle resistant), but polyester fiber is much stronger than acrylic fiber.
 Furthermore, although each group of fibers has different properties from fibers in
another group, there may be some similar properties. For example, although cotton
and acetate fibers are in different groups (cellulose and synthetic), each is hydrophilic
(i.e., absorbs water easily).
 A fibers chemical composition relates to its reaction to various items, such as
bleaches, sunlight, moths, mildew, flame, and perspiration. It also determines whether
the fiber is thermoplastic (able to be melted), which dyes can be used to colour it, and
its reaction to chemical finishes.
 The arrangement of the molecules within a fiber affects its strength, abrasion
resistance, and resiliency.
 With natural fibers, little modification is possible, but with manufactured fibers,
modifications are possible within limits determined by the chemical structure.
 This has allowed the development of numerous variations of manufactured fibers
through the application of textile science and technology.

Fiber Performance properties:

Fiber performance properties determine the behaviour characteristics of fibers and

thus their suitability in specific use conditions.
Standardized tests and laboratory procedures are used to measure and compare fiber
properties, which can be categorized in four groupings – aesthetics, durability,
comfort, and safety.
AESTHETICS:

Flexibility
 Flexibility is the capability of a fiber to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking.
A flexible fiber such as acetate can be made into a highly drapable fabric and
garment. A rigid fiber such as glass, which is not used in apparel but can be found in
draperies, usually makes a fabric that is relatively stiff.
 Usually the thinner the fiber, the better its drapability. Flexibility also influences the
hand of a material.
 Although a highly drapable fabric is often desired, there are also times when a more
rigid fabric is wanted. For example, in a swing coat (a coat that hangs from the
shoulders and flares out), a more rigid fabric is needed to produce the desired shape.

Hand
 Hand is the way a fiber, yarn, or fabric feels when handled. The hand of the fiber is
affected by its shape, surface, and configuration.
 Fiber shapes vary and include round, flat, and multilobal.
 Fiber surfaces also vary having attributes such as smooth, serrated, or scaly.
 Fiber configuration is either crimped or straight. Type of yarn, fabric construction,
and finishing processes used also affect the hand of a fabric.
 Terms such as soft, crisp, dry, silky, stiff, boardy, or harsh are used to describe the
hand of a textile material.

Luster

 Luster refers to the light reflected from a surface.

 Increased light reflection occurs from a smoother surface, less crimp, flatter cross-
sectional shape, and longer fiber length. The drawing process used in producing
manufactured fibers increases the amount of luster by making the surface smoother.
 The addition of delusterant agents breaks up the reflected light so less luster occurs.
Thus, by controlling the amount of delusterants added, we can make manufactured
fibers bright, semi-dull, or dull.
 Fabric luster is also affected by the yarn type, weave, and finish used. The desired
amount of luster depends on fashion trends and customer desires.
Pilling
 Pilling is the formation of groups of short or broken fibers on the surface of a fabric
that are tangled together in the shape of a tiny ball called a pill. They are formed when
the ends of a fiber break from the fabric surface, usually from wear.
 Pilling is not a desirable property because it makes fabrics look worn and unsightly
and feel less comfortable, such as when formed on sheets. The pills usually form in
areas that are rubbed, such as collars, along the underside of sleeves and at the edges
of cuffs.
 Hydrophobic fibers tend to pill much more than hydrophilic fibers because
hydrophobic fibers have greater electrical static attraction for each other and do not
fall off the fabric surface.
 Wool, although hydrophilic, pills because of its scaly surface. The fibers snag each
other, tangle, and form a pill.

Resiliency
 Resiliency is the capability of a material to spring back to shape after being creased,
twisted, or distorted. It is closely connected with wrinkle recovery.
 A fabric that has good resiliency does not wrinkle easily and therefore, tends to retain
its good appearance.
 Thicker fibers possess greater resiliency because there is more mass to absorb the
strain. Also, fiber shape affects fiber resiliency; round fibers usually possess greater
resiliency than flat fibers.
 Polyester has outstanding resiliency; cotton has poor resiliency.
 A resilient fiber creates a problem if a sharp crease is desired in a garment. It is easy
to make a sharp crease on a cotton or rayon fabric, but not on a dry-wool material.

Specific Gravity
 Specific gravity is the ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at
4°C.
 A lightweight fiber enables a fabric to be warm without being heavy.
 A fabric can be made thick and lofty and still remain relatively lightweight.
 Acrylic fiber is an excellent example. It is much lighter weight than wool, but it has
wool-like properties and so is used extensively to make lightweight-yet-warm
blankets, scarves, heavy socks, and other winter-wear items.

Static Electricity
 Static electricity is a frictional electric charge caused by the rubbing together of two
dissimilar materials. The effects, such as clothes clinging to the wearer or lint being
attracted to the fabric, occur when the electric charge is retained and builds up on the
surface.
 A spark or shock occurs when the surface comes in contact with a good conductor and
there is a rapid discharge.
 Moisture contained in fibers acts as a conductor to remove the charge and prevent the
previously mentioned effects from occurring. Hydrophobic fibers, because they
contain very little moisture, are prone to static electricity.
 Static can also occur with natural fibers, but only if they are very dry, in which case
they act as if they are hydrophobic. Fabrics containing epitropic fibers (fibers that
conduct electricity) have no static problems.
Thermoplasticity
 A thermoplastic fiber softens when heat is applied and may melt to a liquid state when
higher heat is applied. Many manufactured fibers are thermoplastic.
 Permanent creases and pleats can be made on fabrics containing thermoplastic fibers
by applying enough heat to create a crease or pleat but not enough to melt the fiber;
when the heat is removed, the crease or pleat is permanently set.
 The creases are permanent, until a higher temperature is applied to negate the heat-
setting effect. Shape can also be imparted to garments by this process, giving
thermoplastic fabrics good dimensional stability.
 Fiber thermoplasticity is an important property that makes many textile innovations
possible. Examples are textured yarns, permanent embossing, durable press, and
others. Shaped hat bodies and bra cups are also examples of applications of
thermoplastic fibers.

DURABILITY

Abrasion Resistance
 Abrasion resistance is the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributes to fabric
durability.
 Garments made from fibers that possess both high breaking strength and abrasion
resistance can be worn often and for a long period of time before signs of physical
wear appear.
 Nylon is used extensively in action outerwear, such as jackets and soccer shorts,
because it is very strong and resists abrasion extremely well.
 Acetate is often used for linings in coats and jackets because of its excellent
drapability and low cost.
 However, because of acetate’s poor resistance to abrasion, the lining of a jacket can
fray or develop a hole long before the outer fabric shows substantial signs of wear.

Chemical Effects
 Fibers usually come into contact with chemicals either during textile processing (e.g.,
dyeing, finishing) or during home/professional care or cleaning (e.g. contact with
soaps, bleach, and dry-cleaning solvent).
 The type of chemical, its strength, and time of exposure determine the effect on the
fiber.
 Fibers react to chemicals in different ways. For example, cotton fibers have relatively
low resistance to acids but excellent resistance to alkalies, in addition, cotton fabric
loses appreciable strength when finished with resin chemicals, which are used to
create permanent press.

Environmental Conditions
The effects of environmental conditions on fibers vary.
The following are some examples:
 Wool garments need to be mothproofed when stored because they are
susceptible to damage by these wool-eating insects.
 Nylon and silk show strength losses from extended exposure to sunlight.
Therefore, they are normally not used for window treatments.
  Cotton has poor resistance to mildew and should not be allowed to remain wet
for long periods of time.

Strength
 Strength is a fiber‘s ability to withstand stress.
 Fiber strength, the force needed to break the fiber, is known as tenacity and expressed
in grams per denier or grains per fiber weight.
 Some fibers, such as glass, nylon, and polyester, are very strong, whereas others, such
as acetate and acrylic, are weak.
 Like abrasion resistance, strength contributes greatly to fabric durability.
 Performance fabrics, as they are called, are used in outerwear, uniforms, tires,
parachutes, and other end-use applications where strength is critical.

COMFORT

Absorbency
 Absorbency is the ability to take in moisture. It is usually expressed as a percentage of
moisture regain, which is the amount of water a dry fiber absorbs from the air under
standard conditions of 70°F ( 21°C ) and 65 percent relative humidity.
 Fibers able to absorb water easily are called hydrophilic fibers. All the natural animal
and vegetable fibers are hydrophilic, as are three of the manufactured fibers, rayon,
lyocell, and acetate.
 Fibers that have difficulty absorbing water and are only able to absorb small amounts
are called hydrophobic fibers. All the manufactured fibers besides rayon, lyocell, and
acetate are hydrophobic.

Cover
 Cover is the ability to occupy an area. A thick fiber or one with crimp or curl gives
fabric better covet than a thin, straight fiber.
 The fabric is warm and looks and feels substantial, but requires fewer fibers to be
made.
 Wool is a widely used fiber for cold weather garments because its crimp gives
excellent cover, resulting in a large amount of air being trapped in the fabric.
 These “dead air" spaces provide insulation against the cold. The effectiveness with
which fibers cover an area depends on cross-sectional shape, longitudinal
configuration, and weight.

Elasticity
 Elasticity is the ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation) and then
return to the original length when released (recovery).
 Stretch and recovery when tension is placed on the fiber or fabric makes for a more
comfortable garment and causes less seam stress. It also tends to increase the breaking
strength of the fabric.
 Complete recovery helps prevent bagginess from occurring at elbows or knees, and it
prevents the garment from becoming loose fitting.
 Fibers that can elongate at least 100 percent are called elastomeric fibers. Spandex,
elasterell-p, lastol, and rubber are fibers in this category.
 After being stretched, these elastic fibers return forcibly to approximately their
original dimensions.
Wicking

 Wicking is the ability of a fiber to transfer moisture from one section to another.
 Usually the moisture is along the fiber surface, but it may also pass through the fiber
when a liquid is absorbed by the fiber. The wicking propensity of a fiber usually is
based on the chemical and physical composition of the outer surface.
 A smooth surface reduces wicking action.
 Some fibers, such as cotton, are hydrophilic and also possess good wicking action.
Others, such as olefin, are hydrophobic but possess good wicking action when
microdenier in size (i.e. very thin filament fibers).
 This property is especially desirable in work out clothes and running clothes.

SAFETY

Flammability
 Flammability is the ability to ignite or burn. This characteristic is important because
people's lives are surrounded with various textile products.
 We know that the burning of apparel or interior furnishings can cause serious injury
and/or result in significant material loss for the consumer.
 Fibers are usually classified as being flammable, flame resistant, or flameproof:
 Flammable fibers are relatively easy to ignite and sustain combustion.
 Flame-resistant fibers have a relatively high ignition temperature and slow rate
of burning. They may also be self-extinguishing.
 Flameproof fibers will not burn.
 Flammable fibers can be made flame resistant through finishing.

IDENTIFICATION OF FIBERS

Three methods
1. Microscopy
2. Burning Test
3. Solubility Tests
Microscopy
 Identification of natural fibres easy
 Identification of synthetic fibres difficult
 May indicate the presence of more that one type of fibres
Burning Tests
 Quick tests
 Simple method for identifying the fibres
 Knowledge of the burning properties of the fibres essential
 Aspects studied – behaviour of the material on approaching the flame, in the
flame, on coming out of the flame, its odour and residue
Solubility tests
 Fiber identification can be made when it is determined which chemical will dissolve
the specimen.
 The specimen is stirred in the liquid and the results are noted.
 Extreme care should be taken because most of the liquids are hazardous. Gloves,
aprons, goggles, and laboratory-exhaust hoods should be used during these tests.
 Used for qualitative and quantitative assessment of fibres and their blends.