LYOCELL

Intro
duction
Lyocell is a regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolving pulp (bleached wood pulp). It
was first manufactured in 1987 by Courtaulds Fibres UK at their pilot plant S25. As of 2010
it is manufactured by Lenzing AG of Lenzing, Austria, under the brand name "Lyocell by
Lenzing", & under the brand name ‘Tencel’ by the Tencel group, now owned by Lenzing
AG[1]. Lyocell is created by a solvent spinning technique, and the cellulose undergoes no
significant chemical change. It has a soft finish, packs light and is made from cellulose or
wood pulp. This makes it a natural fiber and is noted for its durability and strength, in
addition to its eco-friendly manufacturing techniques.

Raw Materials

The main ingredient of lyocell is cellulose, a natural polymer found in the cells of all plants.
The cellulose is derived from the pulp of hardwood trees. Some common tree species used
are oak and birch. The solvent used for manufacturing is an “amine oxide”. Water is another
key ingredient used along with a finishing agent which varies, but is generally a lubricant
such as soap or silicone.

Figure 1:- Raw materials used for manufacturing Lyocell

The cellulose is derived from the pulp of hardwood trees. During the manufacturing process,
the hardwood is broken down into chips and then fed into a vat of chemical digesters, which
soften them into a wet pulp. The pulp is washed, bleached, and dried in a huge sheet that is
rolled onto a giant spool.

Manufacturing Process

Figure 2:- Manufacturing Process of Lyocell

Preparing the wood pulp: Hardwood trees are harvested and trucked to the mill where they
are cut to 20 ft (6.1m) lengths and debarked by high-pressure water jets. Next, the logs are
chipped by a machine into squares about the size of postage stamps. The chips are digested
chemically to soften them enough to be mechanically milled to a wet pulp. This pulp is
washed with water and may be bleached. Then it is dried into a continuous sheet and rolled
onto spools. At this stage, it has the consistency of thick poster board paper. The roll of
cellulose weighs some 500 lb (227 kg).

Dissolving the cellulose: At the Lyocell mill, several rolls of pulp are broken into one-inch
squares and mixed with amine oxide in a heated, pressurized vessel; the cellulose fibers begin
to dissolve.

Filtering: When the cellulose solution has become clear, it is pumped through filters to
insure that all the chips are dissolved and to remove any remaining foreign material that
would otherwise clog the spinners.
Spinning: The solution is then pumped through spinnerets & forced through it. Long strands
of fiber come out & these are then immersed in another solution of amine oxide, diluted this
time, which sets the fiber strands. Then they are washed with de-mineralized water.

Drying and finishing: The Lyocell fiber next passes to a drying area, where the water is
evaporated from it. The strands then pass to a finishing area, where a lubricant, which may be
a soap or silicone or other agent depending on the future use of the fiber, is applied.

Final step: The dried, finished fibers are at this stage in a form called ‘Tow’, a large
untwisted bundle of continuous lengths of filament. The bundles of tow are taken to a
crimper, a machine which compresses the fiber, giving it texture and bulk. The crimped fiber
is carded by mechanical carders, which perform an action like combing, to separate & order
the strands. The carded strands are cut and baled for shipment to a fabric mill. The entire
manufacturing process, takes about two hours. After this it can be spun with another fiber,
such as cotton or wool. The resulting yarn can be woven or knitted like any other fabric, and
given a variety of finishes, from soft and suede-like to silky.

Recovery of the solvent: The amine oxide used to dissolve the cellulose and set the fiber
after spinning is recovered and re-used: the dilute solution is evaporated to remove the water,
leaving amine oxide which is used for dissolving the next batch of cellulose. 98% of the
amine oxide is typically recovered.

Fiber Properties

Table 1:- Properties of Lyocell

Properties Lyocell
Tenacity (CN/tex) 38 – 42
Wet tenacity (CN/tex) 14 – 16
Elongation 34 – 38
Wet elongation % 16 – 18
Wet Modulus at 5% extension 217
Water imbating capacity in % 65

Lyocell possesses many properties of other cellulose fibers, such as cotton, linen, ramie, and
rayon. Like other cellulosic fibers, it is breathable, absorbent, and generally comfortable to
wear. In fact, lyocell is more absorbent than cotton and silk, but less so than wool, linen, and
rayon. It can take high ironing temperatures and is susceptible to mildew and damage by
silverfish. It has moderate resiliency and does not wrinkle as badly as rayon, cotton, or linen,
Slight shrinkage is typical in lyocell garments. Stability, overall, is similar to that of silk and
better than cotton or linen.
Lyocell has good strength and durability. It is the strongest cellulosic fiber,even stronger than
cotton or linen in both dry & wet conditions. The property of high wet strength usually
determines the extent to which fabrics can be machine washed successfully.

Other desirable properties of lyocell are its luster and soft drape which makes it an
aesthetically pleasing fiber. It can be made into microfibers (very fine fibers), offering depth
and body to fabrics combined with luxurious drape. Short staple length fibers give a cotton-
like look to fabrics. Long filament fibers are successful in silk-like end uses.

Lyocell blends well with other fibers including wool, silk, rayon, cotton, linen, nylon, and
polyester. It successfully takes many finishes, both functional and those designed to achieve
different surface effects and dyes easily. Overall, Lyocell is a versatile fiber with many
desirable properties.

Applications

Lyocell was initially found in high end and designer apparel. Production costs are greater
than cotton making lyocell more expensive in finished garments. However, as production
increases and costs decrease, expect to see more lyocell in moderately priced apparel.
Lyocells soft drape and luxurious hand makes it very desirable in women’s fashion garments
as well as mens shirts, particularly apparel traditionally made from silk. It is used in chino,
and chambray casual wear. It is popularly used in the famous denim fabrics in US market, it
is very rough & it has got velvety feeling, hence in US, 90% of these fibers are consumed for
denims.

Tencel® lyocell gabardines take water resistant finishes for coatings. Other fabrics
successfully made from lyocell include jersey-knits, which exhibit a soft hand and luster.
Lyocell is used in fabrics including knits of all types, leotards and hosiery, velvets, velours,
and corduroys.

Look for Tencel® lyocell blended with Tactel® nylon in which the Tactel® is on the surface
for durability and wind and water resistance, while the Tencel® has greater exposure on the
backing surface for warmth, absorbency, and comfort. Blends with wool and wool with
Lycra® spandex and Tencel® have been successful. Blends of lyocell with cotton, linen, and
rayon, will continue to be available, especially for spring, summer, and fall fashions. In
addition, blends with silk and rayon are common, especially in lightweight silky fabrics
including those with sueded surfaces. To some extent, lyocell is available in home products
including bath towels, sheets, pillowcases, and window treatments. Industrial uses for lyocell
include conveyor belts (because of the fiber's strength), ultra-low tar cigarette filters, printers
blankets, abrasive backings, carbon shields, specialty papers, and medical dressings.

Producers
Lyocel is manufactured by Lenzing in Mobile, Alabama, USA, in Grimsby, England, and in
Heiligenkreuz, Burgenland, Austria.

Conclusion

Today the world demands for “Organic, Eco-friendly & Bio-degradable” products. Its an
improved fiber, in terms of performance and properties. Lyocell is also friendly to the
environment. Virtually all of the chemicals used in the production process are reclaimed. The
resulting fiber, lyocell, is both biodegradable and recyclable. Its outstanding, essential &
desirable properties make it suitable for various end uses in many fields. We can conclude
saying that the future scope for Lyocell fiber is definitely vast.

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