HtJlIII FtJ BUII-D

A HIGH IftJl. FA GIl

HtJMIl PtJlIIIllR PfANF
AND IIIIIlI-DING UNIF
Using Low Cost Used Car Parts
and
Natural Energy Drive Systems

Publllhld by:
TAENDLINE PUBLISHING COMPANY
(A DIvision of Trendllne Intemetlonal Ply. Ltd.)
G.P.O. Box 1889, Sydney, 2001. Australia.

e Copyright 1983. Trendline International Pty. Ltd.

Revised and updated Edition 1985 ISBN 0 -86437 000 8.

Reproduction prohibited by any method without prior permission in writing from the publishers.

This manual is compiled from a special project headed by]. T.Allowyn and commissioned by Trendline
International Pry. Ltd. The information contained herein is believed to be accurate, bur is sold as information
only and no liability is accepted by either the publishers or research analysts.

WARNING
The information in this manual willenable you to produce high voltage from car alternators and car batteries.
HIGHVOLTAGESCAN CAUSEINSTANT DEATH.Always insulateconnections.and when producingover 60
volts. clearly label - "DANGER - HIGH VOLTAGE".

1
 CONTENTS
. Introduction
. "810 COII8tructlon end Operailng Detail.
. Alternatore Output, Wiring -
and Moclltlcatlons
- HowtoConnect
-- Alternators in Parallel
How to Connect for Fast Charging of Batteries
How to Connect for Welding
- How to Connect for Operating 24Ovo1t Drills, Lights, Power Tools etc.
. DrIve LIne OptIons
-Lawn Moweror Cycle Engine
-- Rear Wheel of Car
Molar

V-Belt Drive off Car Molar

.
- Twin Alternator Drive off Car Motor
Drive Speed, Voltage and Po"".r Strength
- Howto Calculate Alternator Speed
-- Howto Calculale Pulley SIZ88for Specific AIt8m8Iar Speed
Howto Calculate Power Strength; Am Valls and Watts.
. Battery CalculatlOl'I8l1ftd Hook"'" enee
-- Howto Conneet In 111gbVI"""
How to Connect In Par8II8I for HIgh Amp C8pecfty
- How to Connect In Combined Par811e11Serles for Increased Amp Capacity and Higher VoIt8g8s
. Battery Facts
--- Factors which Determine Battery Power
Battery Charging
Causes of Battery Failure
- Chemical Formulas to Extend Bettery Life
- How and Where to Get Good Used Belteries
. Inverters
- Rotary Inverters
- Solid State Inverters
- Tips on Buying Inverters
. L01NVoltage Appliance. and Tools
- Fridges, Radios, Coiour Television etc
- Heavy Duty Fencing Tool
- 10mm Workshop Drill
- Compact Battery Operated Welder
-- Using an Old Car Generator as an Electric Motor

.. Horne Using an Old Car Starter Motor tor HIgh Pow8r, ftIgIt Torque Applications
Po1Ner Plent
Alternative Energy
OptIons and Combinations
Drive Systems
- Direct Flow Water Powar
-- Regulated Direct Flow Water Power
Water Powered On-site Gravity Unit
- Water Puwered Remote Location Gravity Unit
-- Wind Powered Conventional Propeller Type Windmill
Wind Chute Power Turbine
e Weldtng Capabilitle.
-- Arc Welding
Fusion Welding
-- Brazing
Spot Welding

-- Heating
Soldering
- Cutting
.
- Where to Buy 'Carbon Arc Rods
Conclusion

2
 INTRODUCTION
The ordinary car alternator can be easily modified and used as a convenient mobile power unit.
It can be either mounted on a compact platform and driven by a small petrol motor, windmill, water power, etc.,
or driven by your car motor at the rear wheel, etc.
This power unit has been designed with enormous versatility ranging from simple applications such as lighting and
heating through to brazing and welding.
The overall aim has been to construct an alternative power source from low cost components and used car parts.
The emphasis is on used car parts, e.g. : used car batteries instead of the very expensive, but better suited heavy
plate power plant batteries. The reason for the emphasis Ofl used car parts is mainly their low cost and ease of
availability anywhere in Australia.
As an example of costs, second-hand alternators are readily available around Sydney for $15-$20 each in
good working order (often advertised in the weekly Trading Post). Presumably they are easily available at
similar prices in other States around Australia.
As an example of the capabilities of this unit, you can arc weld using welding rods up to 12 gauge (2.5 mm),
solder, braze, braze weld, fusion weld, spot weld, cut steel, and heat steel to near melting point for shaping and
bending. Note: This is all done by electricity, directly from your power unit. The unit is supplying power direct --
it is not even necessary to buy a welder.
For most people, reading these types of claims in our advertisements is unbelievable and for some it is totally
unacceptable. The thought of creating intense heat and flame capable of fusion ( oxy type) welding and heating steel
to near melting point is hard enough to believe even if using the best of electric welding equipment... but to do all
these things and more without a welder and using an old car alternator appears to be beyond the realms of possibility.
In the following pages you will see the facts and realize that our advertising claims are not an overstatement but
rather a deliberate understatement of fact.

BASIC CONSTRUCT1ONand OPERATING DETAILS

The modifications to the alternator are quite simple and straightforward. It does not require any complicated
rebuilding - all modifications are to external wiring connections only.
Basically the concept is very simple: by-pass the regulator and rt!n a constant 12 volts directly into the field
windings (rotor) of the alternator. This energises a strong magnetic field in the alternator, and the faster it is driven
the higher the voJtage - up to 250 volts.
Normally the regulator controls the rotor current to keep the alternator output at its constant 12 volts ( 13.8
volts maximum). The regulator controls the input to the rotor within the range of zero to 12 volts which
reduces the magnetic field thereby controlling the actual voltage and amperage output from the alternator.
By eliminating the regulator completely and connecting the battery direct to the field windings, then the output is
directly related to the speed of the alternator instead of being controlled by the incoming current.
To set up your portable power unit, you will need an alternator which has a separate regulator (not an inbuilt
regulator). The separate regulator set-up was standard equipment on most models prior to 1980, so it will not present
any problem in buying this particular type. You will also need a 12 volt car or motorbike battery to supply current to
the rotor, and an old lawnmower motor or preferably a motorbike motor to drive the alternator. That is basically all
that is required as far as major components and modifications go.
Alternators are capable of spinning at very high speeds because of their solid integral type of construction, whereas
the old generators tend to explode or fly to pieces at high speed. This is mainly because in generators the individual
brass segments of the commutator had to be electrically insulated from each other and therefore could not be fabric-
ated from a single block of metal. At high speed the centrifugal force caused them to fly out. This problem does not
exist with alternators, and they are quite safe at very high RPM; in fact double engine speed is normal, and they are
quite safe up to 14000 - 15000 RPM.
When your power plant is in operation the power drain on this battery is only about 3 - 4 amps, at the most, so,
you can run the unit for quite a long time before you need to recharge the battery. For example, using a fully charged
100 amp/hr battery at a drain of 4 amps you could run the unit for close on 25 hours before recharging.
In actual fact, your power unit has a fast charge capability, so you can virtually recharge a truckload of car batter-
ies in that 25 hours if you wanted to, so this small power consumption is never a problem.
Some people prefer to use th~ir existing alternator set-up on the car. This is quite OK, because there are no actual
modifications to the alternator. The only modification required is in the wiring connections, that is, in by-passing the
regulator etc.
When you have finished using the power unit (alternator), simply switch it back through to normal operation and
let the battery recharge itself in the normal manner as you drive along..

3
 However, the main disadvantage with this set-up is that you have to rev the engine up fairly high to reach the high
voltages, unless of course you fit different sized pulleys to gear up the alternator speed, but then this is not suitable
for normal driving.
If you prefer that the power unit be in your car, we suggest you buy another alternator and gear it up, then you
can spin the alternator at high speed without revving your engine too fast. Also your existing electrical system reo
mains intact, and therefore keeping your battery charged up. (The extra alternator is fitted on a bracket inside the
engine bay, and driven off an additional fan belt and pulley - see details later.)

ALTERNATORS - OUTPUT, WIRING and MODIFICATIONS

The most commonly available car alternators are Bosch and Lucas. Their rated output ranges from 30 amps to 60
amps for the average car. Most of the larger cars in recent years are fitted with 55 amp alternators to supply an
adequate current for the ever-increasing array of accessories such as multiple lighting, power operated windows, air-
conditioning, etc. The 55 amp alternators are the best, at least as far as car alternators go. If you are able to pick up a
truck or tractor alternator of around 100 amps or more, so much the better.
In our research we found that 35 amp Bosch and Lucas were most plentiful, mostly off Holdens and Falcons, so in
this manual we will base our explanations on these lower output alternators. The capabilities of a 35 amp alternator
would be increased by over 50% (that is over half as much again) by using 55 amp alternators.
As an example of the capabilities of the 35 amp alternators, we connected two in parallel (which doubles the amps
-
but voltage remains single), and at 50 60 volts and 80 amps it easily ran a nice hot weld using 2.5 mm rods and easily
cut through thin steel plate with a 7 mm carbon arc electrode. In fact the molten steel was dripping on to the work-
shop floor, which gives some ideal of the intense heat and power generating capabilities.
Alternators usually go to 5 or 10 amps above their rated output, then the amps level off and the voltage continues
to rise' as the speed increases. A 55 amp alternator will turn out about 60 amps - some go to 65, so if you connect
these in parallel your amperage is around 120 which will easily run a good weld using the larger 3.25 mm
electrodes.
The two main types of alternators, Lucas and Bosch, and the wiring sequence are illustrated below.
General Notes
1. You will only be using two connections on the alternators. All others are not used.
2. It is advisable to use the standard automotive connection in the voltage input lead. (Use only one wire - blank
the other off.) These connector plugs are a snug fit and well insulated. Do not use big alligator clips as they have a
tendency to vibrate loose and either short against the other connector lug or against the casing which can result in
internal damage to the alternator.
3. The voltage input lead only requires light wiring because it only carries 3 amps, or 4 at the most.
4. The earth lead has to be of heavy gauge insulated wire - ordinary car jumper leads are OK. The earth lead is not
necessary if you are using the alternator in your car, providing of course you are also using the 12 volt battery in
your car for the voltage input. (The battery is already earthed to the car, and by virtue of the fact that the alter-
nator is bolted on to the car, it is also earthed to it.)
5. The output lead should be of heavy wire, particularly if you are using two alternators connected in parallel.
Most car jumper leads are heavy enough to carry 100 amps, so you can use this as a guideline.
6. All output leads must be well insulated, particularly if you intend producing high voltages.
7. Alternators will stand a fair amount of heat and high revving; however avoid excessive heat build up as it can
drastically reduce the life expectancy of the alternator. The diodes usually pop first. These cost $2 - $3 each for the
Lucas, and the Bosch has an integrated rectifier assembly consisting of 9 diodes which come as a complete unit
costing about $20.

4
 How to Connect Alternators in Parallel
Connecting alternators in parallel doubles the amperage output, but the voltage output remains the same as if it were
only one alternator. There are significant advantages in using this system especially where high amps are required for
welding etc. Also you can run your alternators at lower speed to maintain a low voltage, high amperage output for
the charging of battery banks etc.
The wiring sequence is exactly the same as for a single alternator, except that the output terminals are connected
together. The alternators are earthed together and then both earthed back to the same sour'ce, i.e. both to the
earth terminal of the battery.

EARTH FRAMES OUTPUT TERMINALS

CONNECTIONS BATTERY TO
TO APPLIANCE ENERGIZE
FIELD WINDINGS

BLANK OFF INDICATOR TERMINALS FIELD WINDING ENERGIZER TERMINAL

How to Connect for Battery Charging

Simply connect the output wire to the positive + terminal of the battery or battery bank. The earth wire is connected
to the negative - terminal of the battery or battery bank. Warning: Do not have 12 volt appliances connected when
fast charging batteries. The higher voltage can damage the appliances. ( See section on Battery Charging.)

Charging in Series

TO OUTPUT TERMINAL
ON ALTERNATOR
+- +
EARTH TO ALTERNATOR
OUTER CASING

Charging in Parallel
EARTH TO ALTERNATOR
OUTER CASING

TO OUTPUT TERMI NA L
ON ALTERNATOR

5
 AMPSjVOLTAGE VARIATION and CONTROL
The amps/voltage ratio is known in simple terms as ~he 'current strength'. Other factors and characteristics in electric-
al energy such as 'sine wave and square wave patterns' and cycles per second (Hz) do not have any significant effect on
current force for heating and welding purposes. In heating and welding for maximum efficiency, ease of operation and
for the performance of wide ranging applications it is desirable that the amps/voltage ratio be variable and controllable.
In conventional single phase 240 volt commercially built welders this is achieved to a limited degree by having an ad-
justabe amps control. The 'open circuit' voltage, Le. the voltage before the welding load is applied, is fixed usually at
around 35-50 volts, and the amps is manually adjusted by the operator in order to vary the amps/voltage ratio, within
certain limitations.
In our design, the amps/voltage ratio is almost infinitely variable which enables you to perform light soldering and
gentle heating through to heavy current applications such as hot arc welding, and cutting and melting steel.
This is achieved by having a progressively adjustable voltage output, and limited adjustment amp output. The pro-
gressivevoltage variation alone is sufficient to give a wide ranging amps/voltage ratio, but this can be varied and con-
trolled even more by 'switching on' a second, third, or even fourth alternator (wired in parallel) to give additional
amps for a heavier amp based current, yet still retaining the controllable intensity ratio with the variable voltages.
If you do not already have a working knowledge of welding and the 'amps/voltage ratio effect', then the following
simple experiment and explanation will enable you to quickly understand, and follow the principles involved.
Unravel a thin strand of wire about 60 cm long from a piece of clothes line wire, then attach one end to the posi-
tive terminal of a 12v car battery, and the other end to the negative terminal. (Caution: Use insulated pliers to avoid
any 'arcing' burns.) The wire is thin enough and long enough to restrict and control the heavy amp output from the
battery while it is only at 12 volts. (The wire will glow red, but not melt). Now connect two batteries in series. The
battery output remains the same in amp power but the voltage doubles to 24 volts. When the 60 ern wire is connected
to the two terminals, the wire will instantly melt and fall apart, due to the stronAer current intensity of the higher
voltage. Amp power has remained the same, while the higher voltage has melted the wire.
This clearly demonstrates the principle we have Incorporated in our design. The amps remain constant while the
current force is either intensified or reduced by the variable voltage changing the amps/voltage ratio. (Note: For safety
reasons, your voltage should not rise above 60 -70 volts, so it is desirable that a voltage gauge be fitted so that the
open circuit voltage can be monitored.)
A twin or triple alternator set-up will easily handle virtually all handyman field or workshop jobs, Le., two 35 amp
alternators wired in parallel gives 70 amps, three gives 105 amps. However, at times you will only require a low amper-
age for light or delicate jobs, in which case you simply disconnect or 'switch off one or two alternators. This in effect
gives a variable amp range, e.g., 35, 70, or 105 amps plus the vari~ble voltage at each amp setting. (As explained previ-
ously, voltage is increased or decreased by simply increasing or reducing the drive speed of the alternators, while the
amp output will rise and level off at the maximum rated output of the alternator.)
You now have a versatile fully integrated power unit which wi\] easily match and often exceed the weld quality of
commercially built 240v single phase arc welders. In addition to this you have wide ranging inbuiltcapabilities which
far exceed that of commercial welders.
Note: A single 55 amp alternator will give a low heat effect at low voltage, but is also capable of arc welding, melting
and cutting steel at high voltages. A twin or triple alternator set-up is not necessary, but does give added flexibility.

DRIVE LINE OPTIONS

Apart from natural energy drive systems such as wind and water (see later) there are three main options for driving
your alternator(s). They are:
1. Lawnmower or Motorcycle Engine - This is a fully portable unit consisting of a wooden platfonn upon which the
alternator and engine are mounted together with a 12 volt battery (to energise the field windings ). The diagram
on page 5 (at top) shows a twin alternator set-up. Note: If you intend driviul! twin alternators at high speed you
will need a large, powerfullawnmower engine or small motorcycle engine, 5 - 8 HP at least.
2. Rear Wheel of Car - This method is suitable for occasional use of the power unit such as running lights, tools or
welding in remote or isolated locations such as a tractor or equipment breakdowns etc. It is a very simple set-up
consisting only of two alternators mounted on a board. The car battery supplies voltage for the field windings
and an old wheel (without the tyre) is bolted on in place of the rear wheel. The flat centre of the rim is ideal for
running twin V-Belts and the large diameter gives enough friction area to provide good 'belt grip'. Alternator
speed (and voltage) can be varied over a wide range by either idling in low gear through to revving the motor
slightly in top gear. (Note: The gearing ratio will turn the alternator very fast with moderate wheel speed. Do not
rev the motor hard in top gear.) It is only. necessary to jack up one wheel of the car if it has a conventional
differential. If your car has a limited slip differential you must jack up both wheels. Always chock the wheels
securely because the resistance in turning the alternators can have a tendency to 'drive' the car forward off the
jack.
3. V-Belt drive off Car Motor - This set-up is very convenient for occasional use of the power unit. You have
virtually unlimited power on tap anywhere you can take your car. You can use the existing alternator on your
car without any modifications at all (providing it has a separate regulator). All you need do is make up a lead and
plug to run direct from the battery to plug into the field windings tenninal on the alternator. No other
modifications are necessary. The procedure is:
(a) Disconnect all wires and connections from the alternator.
(b) Connect your special lead direct from the active tenninal on the battery to the field winding tenninal on
the alternator. (The active tenninal is + on all cars except those with a positive to earth system - e.g.:
early Cortinas, Morris 1100's etc. )
(c) The alternator being attached to the car is already earthed, so no earth connections are necessary for
energising the field windings.

6
 (d) Start the motor and adjust throttle settings (screw adjustment on linkages near carburettor) to run the
motor fast enough to supply the required amps and voltage.
(e) Tools and appliances are connected in the usual way.
Note: The car's charging system is disconnected. Therefore your car battery is being slowly depleted, although this is
not noticeable unless the use extends over 10- 12 hours.
Caution: Electric welding to the body of the car, particularly AC arc welding, can damage alternator diodes. Always
disconnect alternator and battery before arc welding on the car itself.

How to Connect for Welding

When using a single alternator, your welding earth is attached to the alternator frame, and the actual welding lead with
the electrode holder is attached to the output terminal.
If using two alternators in parallel, both frames are earthed, then another earth lead goes on to earth the job in the
normal way. Both output terminals are connected togeth'er, and this connection then extends on to your welding lead
with the electrode holder.

~ O ALTE OUTPUT

~
ALTERN:~OR EARTH
..AND

G;

How to Connect for Operating Drills, Lights, Power Tools etc.

You can operate most 240 volt lights, tools and appliances on the DC voltage produced by your alternator. (Note: Alter-
nators produce alternating current AC, but this is rectified and converted to DC by the diodes in the alternator. Batteries
cannot be charged with AC current ~ it is always converted to DC first).
Nearly all normal 240 volt AC lights, tools and appliances can be operated very efficiently with DC current. The only
limitations are induction motors such as freezer or washing madllne motors and appliances such as 240V AC stereo and
television sets which require the precise 50Hz Sine Wave current pulse for optimum performance.
All power tools having the nor,nal brush type electric motors actually work with greater efficiency and longevity on
DC current. Power and speed can be precisely controlled with voltage. A 240 volt drill will run quite effectively at low
speed on 70-80 volts DC, and speed and power increase as the voltage increases.
A normal 100 watt 240 volt light bulb will show a bright red glow from the filament at 80 volts DC, and the brilliance
and intensity increase with the voltage. In fact light bulbs actually last a lot longer by using only DC current. Alternating
current on the 50Hz system 'pulses' or switches back and forth 50 times per second which when combined with other
power surges in the main power grid tends to reduce the life of bulbs. (This pulsing can be clearly seen in the 'shimmerinf
effect of fluorescent lights).
When connecting your alternator to the 3 pin plug on appliances, disregard the earth pin and, using the remaining
active and neutral pins, connect one wire to the alternator output terminal, and the other to earth anywhere on the
alternator frame. It does not matter which way you connect them as long as one pin is connected tothe output terminal
and one is earthed to the alternator casing. (Note: The actual earth pin on the three pin plug is not used).

Diagram showing a twin alternator set-up being driven by an old car wheel rim in place of the
rear wheel of the car. The accelerator and gears of the car give ~,..,... control and variation to
the alternator speed. The car battery is kept in place, and longer leads are used to connect to
the alternators to energise the field windings.

ALTERNATORS TW".. PU llEY

DRIVE IotOTOR;
DIESEl,PETROL
0, ELECTRIC

AUt_HATO_S o.-nn
'OJII IIU C"'IA."'H~I

BATTERY MOUN 11NO BOARD

Diagram showing the drive motor in position with a double pulley driving a twin alternator set-up.
Note how the alternators are offset for belt clearance, and how the front alternator is driven by a
shorter V-belt to facilitate this compact tandem type layout.

7
4. Twin Alternator Drive off Car Motor - This is relatively simple. Fit twin pulleys to your existing alternator. One
pulley is used for the normal alternator drive, and the second pulley drives another alternator mounted inside the
engine bay. Always use the same type of alternator with the same pulley sizes if connecting them in parallel.
If you only intend using one alternator, then it is a good idea to use a very large second pulley attached to your
existing alternator. High voltages can be achieved without running your car motor at high revs. Note: Do not
connect them in parallel if you are using different pulley sizes. The differing outputs will not be compatible.

DRIVE SPEED, VOLTAGE and POWER STRENGTH

The voltage output of your regulator is directly related to the drive speed and the actual shaft speed of your alternat-
or. Even though your drive speed may be fIXed, you can vary the speed of your alternator (shaft speed) by changing
pulley sizes.
With equal size pulleys, the speed of your alternator will equal the speed of your drive motor (assuming you are not
losing speed through a slipping belt). By increasing the size of the drive pulley, you increase the speed of the alternator.
If the drive pulley is twice the size of the alternator pulley, the alternator will spin twice as fast as the drive pulley.
The formula to calculate pulley sizes and drive speeds is:
To Calculate Alternator Speed
Alternator Speed (RPM) = RPM of Drive Motor x Diameter of Drive Pulley
Diameter of Alternator Pulley
For example Assume motor drive is spinning at 3000 RPM with a drive pulley of 10 em and alternator
pulley of 6 em diameter,
then
Alternator Speed will be = 3000 x 10
6
Therefore the speed of the Alternator = 5000 RPM
To calculate the required pulley size when you want a specific alternator speed is as follows:
For example the upper safety limit on an alternator is 14000 RPM, so let's assume you have a drive motor capable Of
3000 RPM, but you want to drive the alternator at its maximum of 14000 RPM. Usually it is more convenient to
change the drive motor pulley rather than the alternator pulley, so with an alternator pulley of 6 em diameter and a
drive motor spinning at 3000 RPM, you now want to know what sized drive pulley to use in order to spin the
alternator at 14000 RPM.
Here is the formula.
Pulley diameter of Drive Motor = Alternator RPM x Diameter of Alternator Pulley
RPM of Drive Motor
Using the above example:
Pulley diameter of Drive Motor = 14000 x 6
3000
Required diameter of Pulley = 28 em.
Note: Inches can be used instead of centimetres - it makes no difference as long as you do not mix the two. In other
words all measurements must either be in inches, or they must all be in centimetres.

Calculation of Power Strength, Amperage and Volts

You will often want to know the exact current draw on certain tools and appliances in order to calculate the required
output of your battery bank or alternator. There is no point in using excess fuel and overdriving your alternator if you
are not going to use the power.
For example, let's assume you have geared your alternator to put out 35 amps at 100 volts, you then want to know
how many lights or appliances you can operate off this.
The formula is :
Watts = amps x volts
In the above exan;tple:
Output in watts = 35 x 100 = 3500
This means you have a power output capable of supplying 3500 ~:!I_I,.- You will now want to know what this
actually means in real terms. To work this out, read the specifications stamped on the appliances, then calculate as
follows:
For example: One WOWlight bulb consumes 100 watts of power which is quite straightforward. However, most
appliances are marked in amps, e.g.: most lOmm drills are around 1.5 amps at 240 volts. This works out as:
Watts = 1.5 x 240 = 360 watts
Therefore, the power consumption of the drill is 360 watts. (The number of watts is a direct measurement, of
energyat actual motor power.) For the purpose of comparison,the 12 volt Bullcraftdrill, 10mm(3/8") draws 25
amps at 12 volts for a rating of 300 watts.
E.g.: Watts = 25* amps x 12* volts = 300 watts (* These figuresare stamped on the drill)
There are occasions when you know the watts, but want to calculate the amps. This may be to assess wiring size,
fuse size. etc.
In this case the formula is :

Amps = Watts
Volts

8
 Using the above Bullcraft drill example:
Amps :: 300 watts =: 25 amps
12 volts
Note: This formula is important because high amps require thicker wiring to carry it. If the wiring is too light, then
the current flow is restricted and heat quickly builds up burning the wiring out and can ignite buildings. This heat
build up can be easily demonstrated by using light jumper leads to start a car with a dead flat battery. These light
jumper leads (or booster leads as they are often called) are usually only rated at about 25 to 50 amps. Most starter
motors draw well over twice that amount. The result is the starter motor cannot get enough amps through the thin
wire in the leads, so it turns over very sluggishly, then the leads quickly overheat to the extent that the plastic
insulation melts within a very short while.
As a general rule all tools and appliances operating on low voltages require higher amperages to get the same per-
formance, and as a result heavier wiring must be used to carry the extra amps. If the wire heats up, or power loss is
significant then heavier wiring is required.
To assist you in compiling your projected power requirements for your home, we have listed the average power
consumption of average-sized appliances:
100 watt light bulb 100 W Vacuum cleaner 400W
Frying pan 1200 W Washing machine 500W
Fridge 300 W Water heater 2000W
Solid state stereo 60 W Room heater 1000 W
Colour television 350 W Blender 600W
Iron 1000 W Radio 50W
Stove 12000 W Fan 80W
Toaster 800 W

BATTERY CALCULATIONS and HOOK-UP SEQUENCE.

Ordinary 12 volt car batteries, when hooked up in series are capable of supplying very high (and lethal) voltages. VOL
can in actual fact run a high voltage all-electric home off only a bank of 12 volt car batteries and your alternator
power unit connected up for battery re-charging no other major generating equipment is necessary.
-
Before scoffing at this idea, read the chapter on 'Battery Facts'. You will learn about buying good batteries for
a dollar or two, and techniques to add 12 - 18 months extra life to each battery, so a bank of20 batteries is quite
reasonable and practical.
Your alternator will fast charge these batteries quite rapidly, al1d the actual stored battery power, I.e.: battery
capacity in amp hours is enormous if you connect them in'parallel' at low volts.
Also remember that you can run most things, I.e.: lights, heaters and brush type motors on DC. In fact an
ordinary 240 volt electric drill for example will run just as well on DC. If you happen to have only 120DC, then the
drill simply runs at half speed and half power. A good solid bank of batteries is practical and useful, particularly if
your drive motor or alternator fails unexpectedly. There are three ways to hook up the batteries. These are:
I. In Series - This steps up the voltage, but the amp hour capacity remains the same. For example two 12V
batteries of 100 amps hours each, hooked up in series gives 24 volts with 100 ampjgr capacity. Ten 12 volt batteries
give 120 volts, but stm retaining the original 100 ampjhr capacity.
2. In Parallel This method steps up the capacity, but the voltage remains the same. For example, two 12 volt
-

100 amp/hr batteries in parallel gives only 12 volts, but 200 amplhr capacity.
3. Combined "In Series"/"In Parallel"- This method givesany desiredcombinationof either a specificvoltage,
or a specific capacity. For example four 12 volt 100 amp/hr batteries can combine to supply either 48 volts at 100
amp/hr, 12 volts at 400 amp/hr, or 24 volts at 200 amp/hI. The hook-up sequence is as follows:
"In Series" - Four 12 volts =:48 volts. Amp/hr capacity remainsthe sameas a singlebattery.

+
'")
- -L..- + - - + '")
-.
~L.. - r-
- +")
- ()
-
-

CONNECT TO APPLIANC E

9
"InParallel';
- Voltage remains the same but amp increases, e.g.: 4 x 100 amp/hr = 400 amp/hr at 12 volts.

+- +-
~- +.-
- +.-
- CONNECT TO
APPLIANCE
- -
-
- - ~- - -
Connect positive to positive, negative to negative (like the jumper leads on a car).

Combined "In Series "j"In Parallel" - Voltage and/or amp capacity can be varied.

- --,- IN SERIES
+ +

+ +

~'N PARALLE~

In the above, two batteries are connected in series, and two in parallel. This gives:
In parallel connection = 12 volts at 400 amp/hrs
Then when it is connected in series = 24 volts at 200 amp/hrs
Note: The amp/hr capacity of car batteries is rated on a 20 hour discharge rate. If it has a heavy load on it, then
the chemical reaction is not fast enough to supply the full rated capacity. For example, 100 amp/hrs capacity
will run a 5 amp appliance for 20 hours ( 5 x 20 = 100 ), but that same battery will not power an appliance
drawing 100 amps for one hour (l x 100 = 100)- as it would appear to do so in theory.
In fact, recently the car battery terminology has changed, and the manufacturers usually state the battery
capacity in terms of cold cranking current, which means the capacity of the battery to supply for example 240
amps for 3 minutes at 7°C below zero. A car starter motor draws over 200 amps for 3 minutes while turning
over the motor, so this measurement gives a more realistic idea of a battery's starting capacity. Batteries become
very sluggish in cold conditions - See Battery Facts.
Note: It is advisable to build up your battery bank using batteries of a similar amperage. When connected in
parallel the current surge can damage low capacity batteries.

************************ CAUTION **************************

High voltages combined with high amps are extremely dangerous. Always insulate all connectors
on voltages over 36V.
Your standard 240V house supply has only 10 - 15 amp fuses )Iirniting the amperage), and this as we all know
is very dangerous and capable of swift and lethal shocks. Twenty 12 volt batteries also give 240 volts, but the
actual current force (amperage) is 10 to 20 times stronger than your household supply. (Household supply is
limited to 15 amps - car batteries can easily provide 300 amps for a short burst - enough to cause instant
death when you combine that amperage with high voltages.)

10
 BATTERY FACTS
The lead-acid type batteries (car batteries) work on the principle of absorbing and discharging acid through the
plates to create electricity.
Each battery cell is 2.2 volts, and consists of a number of positive and negative plates arranged in alternating
sequence and kept apart with inert separatOrs. The battery plates are made from a lead oxide mixtUre, and are
'tied together' with strips of lead alloy connected to the terminals.
The sulphuric acid and distilled water act as an electrolyte and change the lead composition in the plates.
When the battery is fully charged the positive plate is primarily lead peroxide and the negative plate is primarily
sponge lead. The electrolyte (acid/water mixture) is then,mostly acid. However, when the battery discharges.
both plates change to lead sulphate as the acid is absorbed. and the electrolyte then becomes mostly water. In
fact in a dead flat battery there is very little acid at all in the water, and if spilt on your clothing it usually won't
have any effect at all. (In a fully charged battery any small drops spilt on clothing will quickly destroy even the
best of thread fabrics).
Each battery cell isvirtually a battery within itself. A 12 volt car battery has 6 cells connected in series to give a
total of 12 volts - actually 13.2volts when fully charged(i.e.: 6 cellsx 2.2V). A 6 volt battery has only three
cells.
By way of further explanation, if a hole was drilled through the wall of each of the six cells in a ] 2 volt
battery enabling the acid to circulate freely among all the cells and plates. then the battery would become a
.
2 volt battery. or a single cell battery.
From this it is easily seen that any ]2 volt car battery can be converted to a IQwer) ,Itage by adding another
battery 'post' through a hole drilled in the top of the battery to join up with the connectors transferring current
in series from one cell to another.
Factors which determine Battery Power
Battery power or maximum current strength is measured in amperage, and is directly related to the acid absorption
on the surface area of the plates: the more plates a battery has, the greater the amperage capacity.
Battery capacity is usually expressed as 'amp hours'. In theory this means a 12 volt battery with a capacity of
100 amp hours would keep a 12 volt light bulb with I amp current draw going for 100 hours, or a larger drawing
20 amps of power would keep going for 5 hours.
As mentioned above, this is in theory only. Under actual operating conditions, as a genera] rule of thumb, the
higher the amperage draw, the lower the tOtal capacity. For example, at a I amp current draw, the 100 amp/hr
battery would last for 100 hours (Le.: 100 amps divided by ] = 100),but at a current draw of20 amps, the
battery would not last the 5 hours as expected. It would probably be nearer 3 or 4 hours. The reason for this
apparent inconsistency is that the acid reaction is not fast enough to 'recover" itself and generate power at its most
efficient level. (Battery amp hour rates are usually based on a 20 hour discharge period.)
Batteries always operate much more efficiently in warm/hot weather. This is because the 'pores' of the plates
(similar to the pores on your skin) open up and allow free movement of acid, and a faster chemical reaction.
Higher temperatures accelerate all chemical reactions and molecular movement. (However. in very cold climates
special chemical additives can be used to increase 'pore' size).

Battery Charging
As a general rule, the slow charge is the best charge, but fast charging using commercial fast chargers at your
alternator power unit is quite OK, and givesa good lastingcharge.There are, however,certain facts you should be
aware of when fast charging, otherwise you can reduce the life of your battery, or even damage it beyond repair.
When fast charging avoid heavy gassing and excessive heat. Bubbles and mild gassing are quite normal during
charging. (Note: This gas is explosive. Always remove the cell caps before charging to enable this gas to escape -
and do not use a naked flame near the battery cells.) This gas is a mixture of oxygen and hydrogen, and is only the
water splitting into its two basicgases - the hydrogen gas is emitted from the electrolytic reaction on the negative
plate within the cell, and the oxygen is created at the positive plate. This is the reason why water has to be added
periodically to batteries - it gasses off in small bubbles during charging. (Acid does not gas off. and should not be
added during the normal life of a battery.)
Overcharging or excessive fast charging will cause a heat build up in the battery cells and also causes heavy
gassing and boiling. A cell temperature up to 600 C is about as high as it should go. At temperatures above this tite
cell can be damaged or even explode in extreme cases.
Heavygassingand bubbling can 'chip off the specialpaste used on the plates, and lead peroxide can be broken
off the positive plate and carried to the negative plate where it is reduced to pure lead. This causes lead crystals to
grow out from the edges of the plate and eventually extend around the separators and short out the plates.

11
This. of course, is in severe cases, and occurs over a relatively long period, but it does shorten battery life and reduce
efficiency, so it is useful to be aware of these facts.
Do not assume from the above that all gassing is detrimental- in fact the opposite is true. Mild gassing is
essential for full and complete battery charging. Gassing begins at 2.2 volts per cell (fully charged voltage) and is
moderate at 2.4 volts and heavy at 2.5 volts. Ideally, charging should always be carried to completion, that is to the
point where gassing begins. Usually one or two cells do not charge as fast as the others, particularly in old batteries,
so the bubbling will begin in some before the slow ones reach a full charge.
Regulators in cars are generally set to supply a fixed voltage of 13.8 volts which gives 2.3 volts per cell .- this being
just within the voltage area which causes mild gassing.
The cell voltage is a measure of the end product, that is the actual state of charge that the battery has reached.
The speed at which a battery can be charged depends on the charging amperage available. Fast charges supply a
high amperage whereas slow charges supply low amperage. The car charging system via the regulator supplies a high
amperage when the battery is flat (will overheat the regulator if the battery is damaged), and the amperage drops off
as the battery charges up. This is an ideal combination for trouble-free battery life. but it takes a long time to fully
charge the battery, 12 - 20 hours of normal driving. This system is therefore not suitable for home power systems
where fast charging is desirable.
The safest way to charge a battery inthe shortest possible time is to Lisethe 'amp.hour. two hour rule of thumb'
technique. With this method you can charge a dead flat battery up to 907t-capadty in a little over two hours, and fulI
capacity in about four hours.
The rule of thumb is as follows:
The charge rate in amps is equal to the number of amp hour capacity to be recharged. For example, assuming you
have a 100 amp/hr battery which is dead flat, then you can pump in 100 amps for two hours and you will regain a
90% battery charge without damage or gassing. The amperage is then reduced at intervals for the next two hours
mainly to stop over-heating of the cells and to reduce excessive gassing: ( Note: This final 10%.charge should be
spread over two hours.)
If your battery is -)4flat for example, again assuming you have a 100 amp hour battery. then you charge it at 75
amps for the first two hours - (~ of 100amp/hr =75 amp/hr, therefore it is charged at 75 amps). This gives a 90%
charge, and once again the final 10'%charge should take two hours giving a total of four hours to fulIyand
completely charge your battery.
Your alternator set-up is capable of a wide range of slow and fast charging options. In addition to the standard
automotive charging rate (reconnect the regulator) you can produce a wide range of fast charging amp/volt
combinations for charging single batteries or battery banks connected either in parallel or in series.
As a general rule a single 12 volt car battery can be fast charged at 12. 20 volts with amp rates of 35 -55 amps.
If you want to increase the amp rate but keep the voltage down low. wnnect the alternators in paral!el, and
don't spin them too fast (voltage rises with speed. whereas amps Ic~\'eloff at the alternator's maximum rated output).
The voltage will stay low, but your amp rate doubles. For example. two 55 amp alternators in parallel produce
110 - 115 amps.
Batteries connected in series to produce higher voltages should be charged at the higher volts. For example, four
.batteries in series producing 48 volts could be charged at SO. 00 volts. :VMe: When in series the amp rate is the same
as a single battery, so do flOt calculate four times the amp hour capacity. Caution: Heavily sulphated batteries should
not be fast charged for long periods in an allempt to 'boost' life into them they can in some cases burst or explode.
~.

Causes of Battery Failure

The most common cause of battery failure is sulphation in the cells. Sulphation is the hardening or crystallizing of
the usually soft and chemically active lead sulphate. As it hardens and crystallizes. the battery capacity and
chemical activity are reduced, leading to failure. Leaving a battery slanding on a shelf for months in a discharged
(flat) state leads to very early battery failure due to sulphation.
Plate buckling is another co'nmon caus~ of battery failure. This i~ usually the result of the battery not being
'wpped up' with water. and the plates being exposed to the air. The air causes the plates to warp and crumble and
in addition to reducing capacity, the crumbled plate~ form a sedimentary deposit which can caLise shorting.
Siudging is lnother cause of battery failure. This IScaused by peroxide crystals "growing" around the positive
plates. then falling off and sludging up the hattery.

How to Extend Battery Life

Battery life can be extended by an extra
accomplished hy the addition of certain
However. this is a very controversialisslIe.
matter have issued categorical stauments
Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulphate) l:sed
\ It was sulphated and could no! take \H
one to two years by reducing/dissolving the sulphation. This can be
chemicals 10 the battery - the formula being listed in this section.
with many variables involved. Certain 'respected authorities' on the
saying -that addJlives do not work'. Our experience suggests they do work -
alone WI!h no other additives. increased baltt."ry life by nearly 12 months.
h,.:d :i charge,)

12
 Because of the many variables involved it is extremely difficult to predict the life of a battery. For example. one
which is continuously being discharged by a faulty starter motor is more likely to have a shorter life due to
sulphation. This is because as the battery discharges both positive and negative plates change into lead sulphate and it is
while it is in this lead sulphate state that they are prone to chemical reactions causing sulphation. When the battery is
fully re-charged the positive plate turns back into l.ead peroxide, and the negative plate changes into sponge, and in
this chemical state are not prone to sulphation.
-~-
Obviously a battery kept in a fully charged state will have a much 10nger-life.thaITone Wtiieft.-tnl1OSi1YiO a dis.
charged (fiat) state. However, the batteries are made to be used, so during their use, particularly in a home power
plant, they will be discharged quite heavily at times, and it is nQt always convenient to re-charge them immediately.
Under these circumstances sulphation is inevitable, so the following facts and formulae will at some stage or another
prove useful to you.
1. Magnesium Sulphate - More commonly known as Epsom Salts. Buy it in an ordinary packet at either the chemist
or supermarket, and put a slightly heaped teaspoonful into each cell. Fully charge it with a slow charge, then dis.
charge it (using car headlights or similar), then add another slightly heaped teaspoonflll to each cell. It will take
about a month for the Epsom Salts to dissolve the sulphation and increase the battery's capacity to hold a charge.
2. Caustic Soda -drop a small pinch of caustic soda into each cell when the battery is flat. As it charges and heats
up, the caustic will foam and dissolve the sulphation.
3. Formula (No. J) Power AdditiJ'e
Sodium Sulphate (salt cake) 15 parts
Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts) 10 parts
Magnesium Oxide (Calcined Magnesia) :! parts
Mix all together (by stirring with a spoon), then add 2 . 3 hea;Jed teaspoonsful to each hattery l'el!. II may be necess-
ary to repeat this treatment 4 - 6 months later.
4. Formula (No.2) Liquid Additive
Aluminium Sulphate (also known as alum cake. papennakers
alum, Pearl alum 88 parts
Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts) 4 parts
Cadium Sulphate I part
Dissolve the Epsom Salts and cadium sulphate in water. then add the aluminium sulphate. Use only enough water to
to make a smooth concentrated solution. Use 2 . 3 teaspoonsful every six months.
5. Miscellaneous Hints - Siudging can be reduced quite substantially (up 10 5CJ,n by adding very small amounts of
vanadium and chromium to each cell.
When sludging has occurred. it can be reduced and battery life increased by operating it in a warmer area (hot if
possible), reducing both current draw and reducing the amperage charge rate, and adding more water than normal to
each cell, Le., overfilling each cell.
Lighter loads increase battery life, by a small amount. so if you have a hea\'y current draw (e.g.: workshop tools)
hook up 2 or three batteries in parallel. This still gives only 12 volts. but the capacity is doubled or tripled, so this
means what was originally a heavy current draw on one battery now be~omes a light current draw-- because it is
spread over 2, 3 or 4 batteries.
Always add distil/ed water to batteries. Impurities in water such as minerals and iron can cause reactions within
.
the battery and reduce its capacity and its life.
Do not add additional acid to a battery (unless it replaces some which has been spilt or emptied from the battery).
Adding additional acid to a battery will do more harm than good. and excess amounts will quickly destroy the
battery. It is OK while the battery is flat and the liquid in the cells is mostly water. but with additional acid having
been added the density is too great and creates adverse chemical reactions within the battery. (Your hydrometer
reading would always be wildly inaccurate because of the extra acid density, i.e.: a flat battery would be showing up
'fully charged' if enough acid was added.)
6. Dissolving Sulphation with Distilled Water - Empty all the electrolyte (acid/water) from each cell, and in its place
put distilled water. Allow to stand for an hour or so, then put it on a slow charge of about 4 amps.
The sulphate crystals will gradually dissolve (they are more soluble in pure water than acid/water). and as Ihey
dissolve out, they turn into sulphuric acid. A combination'of battery charging and chemical reaction will cause a rise
in temperature within the battery. If it reaches 45° . 50°C, turn the charger off, and let the battery cool down.
Keep the slow charge going while ever the 'specific gravity' reading is increasing. (Use your hydrometer for this).
If the specific gravity goes over the normal figure of about 1.300, it means someone has added acid to the battery.
The best move then is to tip it all out and start again with fresh distilled water.
When your reading stabilizes, Le. : the specific gravity reading slops rising. tip it out. then refill each cell with a
fresh acid solution, then run the battery through two or three charge/discharge cycies and check your "specific
gravity" reading.

13
 The fresh acid solution is made up of sulphuric acid and water. If you cannot buy a ready-made mixture, then
mix a small amount of acid and water together. (Caution: Always add acid to water - do not add water to straight
acid. If perchance you do get acid in your eyes, flush them well for several minutes with fresh water.)
With the mixture in the battery, and the battery fully charged, your hydrometer reading should show 1.265 to
.1.285 in summer and up to 1.300 in winter. If the reading is tg.Q'low, add more acid.
~-- ~.-
How and Where to g~,.,-~/j
The best place to get used batteries is from service stations. Avoid if possible buying from scrap metal merchants and
junk yards, because the baHeries are probably dry, damaged or been standing too long without a charge.
Service stations often have good batteries which have gone flat for some reason. such as a faulty starter motor
drawing too much current, or incorrectly adjusted regulator or faulty generator or alternator. Quite dten the
motorist assumes the battery is no good and simply asks the service station attendant to fit a new one. These 'dead'
batteries are classified as junk and can often be picked up for a dollar or two. An average of about I in 3 is a good
battery capable of holding a full charge. .
Buy half a .dozen of these batteries and put them on a slow charge of about 3 amps and leave them until fully
charged - anywhere from one to three days. Disconnect the charger, and leave the battery standing for four or five
days, then test it with a load tester, or under operating conditions. If it stands up OK, and has held the charge, and is
able to deliver it, then you have a good secondhand battery.
Those that don't stand up to the test can be sold to a scrap metal merchant so in effect the useless batteries have
not cost you anything, and the good ones have been acquired for a minimal outlay of a few dollars.

INVERTERS
Inverters are devices to change voltage and current from a low DC (Direct Current) voltage to a high AC (Alternating
Current) voltage. For example, using an inverter you can convert [2 volts DC into 240 AC, 50Hz, for operating
normal household appliances.
There are two main types of inverters in general use. They are:
1. Rotary Inverters - This is most suited to very heavy current use. It is actually an alternator being driven by a low
voltage DC motor, and turns out current (AC) at 240V, 50Hz. (Note: Your car alternator generates 3 phase AC
current, but this passes through rectifier diodes to prod11ce DC voltage.)
The rotary inverter, sometimes called a 'motor generator', is not really suited for very small power plants.
Although they do a very good job generally they have one disadvantage in terms of power use efficiency. They are
not as efficient as the solid state inverters. The rotary inverter has about a 60% efficiency rate whereas the solid state
inverter has about 80% efficiency rate. This in effect means the rotary 'unit is eating up quite a tot of power just to
operate the inverter alone,
2. Solid State Inverters - These are a comparatively recent development in inverters and as mentioned previously
they make much more efficient use of available power. As a general rule, the solid state inverters are more suitable to
smaller applications. In fact we found it best to use 4 or 5 small inverters around the home rather than one big rotary
inverter. However, amongst other things, it all comes down to your available DC power, and your actual power
.
requirements.
Tips on Buying Inverters
Solid state inverters are readily available from nearly all electronic stores, and second hand rotary inverters can often
be bought at reasonable prices from army disposal stores, or if you are building up alternative power systems for
friends or to sell commercially, you are well advised to contact the Dept. of Defence direct and buy in bulk either by
tender or by auction.
The following facts should be kept in mind when buying inverters:
(a) The output has to be 240V with a 50 cycle per second rate, i.e.: 50Hz. In Australia our power system, and all
appliances, run on 50Hz. (In the U.S.A. the rate is 60Hz),
.
(b) The inverter should ideally produce a 'sine' wave' rather than a 'square wave', The 'wave' is die fluctuating of-
the current as it pulses or alternates. The 'sine wave' is necessary for induction motors. static,free stereos and
distortion.free television. Incidentally, the rotary inverters have an exceptionally good 'sine wave' capability.
(c) It is desirable that the inverter have an automatic switching capability so that it starts up when an appliance
is switched on. and shuts off when the appliance is switched off.
(d) It should have a heavy start up capability. that Ie;it should be able to exceed its rated output for a few seconds
for accommodating the sudden heavy current dr~w when motors start.
(e) The inverter should also have an automatk overload cut-out to avoid damage on occasions where it is heavily
overloaded for more than five or ten seconds.
When buying inverters you should shop around -look up the suppliels in the Yellow Pages and either phone or write
to them for brochures. prices and details.

14
 For the convenience of those of you who live in isolated or remote locations, the addresses of several Sydney
manufacturers/suppliers are listed.

Jaycar Electronics Chloride Batteries Aust. Ltd,

117 York St, 23a Nyrang St.
SYDNEY 2000 LIDCOMBE N.S.W. 2141
Ph. 267 1614

Dept. of Defence, Navy, S.T.C.

Navy Supply Centre Moorebank Ave.,
ZETLAND, N.S.W. 2017 LIVERPOOL, N.S.W. 2170

Dept. of Defence, RAAF, Power Electronics

Air Force Supply Officer, 6 McLaughlin St,
59 Goulburn St, ARTARMON, N.S.W. 2064
SYDNEY 2000

Dept. of Defence, Army, Electronic Technologies

Public Relations, Victoria Barracks, 3 Potts St,
Oxford St, RYDE, N.S.W. 2112
PADDINGTON, N.S.W. 2021

Inverters and Constavolt Electronics Pty Ltd

119 Robey St
MAROUBRA, N.S.W. 2035

WW VOLTAGE APPLIANCES and TOOLS

Virtually all household appliances and workshop tools are available in the low voltage, i.e.: 12 - 36 volt DC power
range. With the ever-increasing demand for camping and leisure equipment, manufacturers and importers are be.
ginning to cater to and cash in on this enormous market potential.
As a result of this upsurge, particularly with regards to recreational vehicles (four wheel drives), campervans and
caravans, there is now an impressive array of 12 volt appliances and accessories ranging from fridges, radios and
colour televisions through to heavy duty drills and winches.
These are all readily available throughout Australia at caravan, camping and recreational vehicle suppliers, so it is
pointless listing them in any further detail here.
We have, however, listed below items of a more specialized nature which are somewhat difficult to obtain through
ordinary retail outlets.
12 Volt Heavy-duty Fencing Tool: This unit is basically a heavy-duty drill capable of driving a soil auger of 3" to 7"
diameter, and W' to 1" wood auger. It is two-speed plus reverse and available from: BISHOP ENGINEERING, 46
Buffalo Road, Gladesville, N.S.W. 2111. Write and ask for a brochure.
12 Volt IOmm Drill: We have had difficulty in locating 12 volt workshop drills within a reasonable price range, so
are including details of the Bullcraft 10mm drill manufactured in Japan. At this stage, it is not being imported in
bulk, so we have made special arrangements for small orders to be purchased direct from the. export agents in
Japan.
At the date of publication of this manual the drills were priced at ¥6,820 (Yen) each. This is about $30.00
Australian. At this price the minimum order is 6 drills.
A number of accessories are available including sanders, drill stands, jig saws, bilge pumps etc. If you prefer
to buy them individually, or in bulk, then the price will vary, that is higher for individual drills, lower for bulk
orders. In any event write first to confirm price and availability. Write an ordinary letter in English and send by
airmail to: Mr Y (A.J. ) NAKAYAMA, SHOEI INDUSTRY Co. LTO, P.O. BOX Minami #49, Osaka, Japan.
Mr Nakayama will write back to you in English confirming prices and availability and other information you might
require. He will be quoting prices in Japanese Yen so you take the letter to your local post office and ask for an Inter-
national Money Order, show them the company name and amount, then the post office will write out a Money Order
and give it to you. Post this by airmail to Mr Nakayama together with a letter specifying what you want. (Note:
It is not necessary to show the post office the letter - it just makes it easier for them to understand what you want.)
Rather than buy an International Money Order you may go to the bank and ask for a bank draft or an Inter-
national Bank Cheque as it is sometimes called. Depending on the bank, this is sometimes a dollar or two cheaper
than the post office.

15
 Small orders up to six drills will arrive through the mail, and the post office will give you a card specifying the
amount of import duty and sales tax to pay. You then pay the post office that amount and collect the goods. It may
sound involved, but it is quite straightforward and doesn't require any effort other than writing a couple of letters
and going to the post office twice.
18 - 36 Volt Welder: It probably appears superfluous and unnecessary to include details on low voltage DC welders
when you can easily weld direct off you car alternator. However, for various reasons some people prefer to weld direct
off the batteries instead of connecting up their alternators. A small compact unit weighing only 1 kg and small enough
to fit in a car toolbox has been designed specifically for this purpose. It is called the XP 'Welder. It is a very simple,
easy to use device which has a small inbuilt oscillating arrangement to control the amperage from the car batteries,
and will run a very neat weld using standard 12, 14 and 16 gauge rods (I.e.: welding rods up to 2.5mm). It works
very well with 2.00mm welding rods using two 12 volt car batteries connected in series to give 24 volts.
They are available from PARA POWER TOOLS, 280 Parramatta Road, Granville, N.S.W. 2142. At the time of reo
searching this project their stocks were limited and it was unlikely that they would be restocking.
If you are not able to purchase them direct from Para Power Tools, write to: XP WELDER COMPANY, Essex
Road, Basingstoke, Hampshire, RG21 ISZ, England, and ask for the name of the importers or distributors nearest to
where you live.
Using an Old Car Generator as an Electric Motor
Old car generators are in plentiful supply and easily acquired for five dollars each or less. Generators are no longer
used on cars, having been replaced by the more efficient and reliable alternators. As a result there is little or no
.
demand for generators and most people clearing out their sheds are quite happy to give them away.
Generators can be used in a similar manner to alternators for power output, but lack the overall efficiency and
and reliability. They do however make excellent fast running low power consumption electric motors. There are
two ways to connect them:
1. Fast running - light power consumption; Connect the positive "+" lead from a 12 volt battery to the large terminal
"D" on the back of the generator. Connect another lead from the negative battery terminal to anywhere on the
generator casing. The generator will spin very fast in an anti-clockwise direction. It has low power consumption
(about 12 amps) but although it spins fast it has no real driving power. It is however very useful for running small
fans and other appliances not requiring much power. (Note: For a generator to operate in this manner the brushes,
commutator and all connections must be clean and in good condition. )
Notes on cleaning Generators
(a) Remove two long screws
- see diagram.
(b) Rear section holding rear bronze bush and brushes slides out, and generator casing slips forward off Iront
bracket.
(c) Clean the commutator with a petrol rag or very fine emery paper. Undercut the insulators between the
segments to a depth of I - 2mm using a broken off hacksaw blade ground down to the width of the
insulators.
(d) Clean or replace brushes, ensuring that they slide up and down OK, and ride evenly on the commutator.
(Brushes only cost $2 - $3 per set.)
(e) Replace rear bronze bush if worn and ensure bush and front bearing allow easy unrestricted rotation.
(f) Oil at regular intervals through rear oil hole if used for long periods.
2. Greater driving force - slower speed, less power consump tion: The drive power of the generator can be in-
creased (but speed is substantially reduced) by connecting both tem1inals together and then connecting to the positive
terminal of the battery (see diagram).
Power consumption is about 4 - 6 amps, which is very light when compared to the heavy current drawn by
starter motors under load (100 - 245 amps). Note: When using generators in this manner do not overload them.
If heat build-up in the field windings is excessive, reduce the load or allow them to cool down. (The field
windings on generators are attached to the inside of the main casing, so by placing your hand on the casing any
heat build-up is easily felt.)
Using Old Starter Motors as High Power Drive Units
Old starter motors, particularly those off early model cars with a separate solenoid switch, are the best to use and
also the easiest to acquire for little or no outlay. (Similar to old generators, they are often classified as unwanted
junk. )
Starter motors develop enormous torque and driving power. The actual power consumption is very heavy under
full load, but decreases to an acceptable level under moderate Joads. (About 50 amps with a light load.)
Note: Starter motors are designed for only short runs under full load, and therefore the continuous running load
should be reduced substantially to avoid overheating. It is advisable to remove the brush cover band to facilitate
increased air circulation and more effective heat dissipation.
Power Connections: On starter motors with a separate solenoid, disregard the solenoid and connect the positive lead

16
 UNDO THESE SCREWS AND
THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY
SLIDES OUT FOR CLEANING
AND REPLACEMENT OF
BUSH AND BRUSHES

....

CONNECT THESE TWO TERMINALS

FOR RUNNING AS A
LIGHT DUTY MOTOR

to the terminal on the end. The negative lead is earthed to any point on the casing of the starter motor.
On starter motors with the solenoid attached, connect the positive lead to the main starter motor terminal, then
run a short light wire.to the terminal on the solenoid. The negative lead is earthed to any point on the main casing.
Machining Shaft for Fitting of V. Belt Pulley: Remove the pinion and spring etc. from the starter motor. (Take care
in compressing and removing the spring - it is very powerful and can be dangerous. You are advised to follow pro-
cedures set out in the car workshop manual.)
The exposed shaft will be uneven and unsuitable for the fitting of a V-Belt pulley. The procedure for machining
the shaft is as follows;
(a) Fill slots and build up shaft as required using your arc 'Yelding unit. Fit copper or steel clamps, and wrap a
wet rag around the base of the shaft to dissipate heat and prevent excessive heat affecting the field winding
insulation.
(b) After welding, remove the clamps and rag and hold the starter motor securely, e.g.; in a vice, then connect it
to a battery and allow to run at full speed.
(c) Using either a high speed disc grinder or abrasive disc in drill running at high speed, move the abrasive disc
slowly in against the spinning shaft. The abrasive disc turning against the spinning shaft will machine it down
and c.entre it up perfectly. Finish off with fine emery paper. The end result will be a perfectly round,
perfectly centred, highly polished shaft of any diameter you desire.
All you need do now is fit a standard type V-Belt pulley and mount the starter motor securely, and you have a
powerful low cost 12 volt electric motor suitable for a wide range of home and workshop applications.
Note: Starter motors usually run on bronze bushes instead of ball bearings, so it is wise to oil them regularly. on a
daily basis if using them for long periods under continuous running conditions.
Fitting of Drill Chuck; If you require a drill or drill chuck for using the standard type flexible drive attachments,
simply cut a thread on the end of the starter motor shaft using a die with a thread size and pitch the same as the
required drill chuck.
The standard Jacobs type drill chucks can be purchased from most hardware stores and all power tool suppliers.
The specifications on the box will detail thread size and type. After cutting the thread on the shaft you simply screw
the chuck assembly straight on to it.
You now have a heavy duty 12 volt 'drill' with enormous power, capable of the most arduous of tasks. It is
advisable to bolt a handle on to the starter motor because the enormous starting power and torque will twist it out
of your hands if the bit sticks or catches.
Use an alligator clip as the positive connection so that it can be easily flicked off to stop the drill instantly if need
be, otherwise fit a trigger type switch, either to the positive or negative lead, preferably the positive - in fact it
should be fitted to the positive lead because the negative lead is only an earth and if you happen to be drilling on
the car body to which the battery is earthed, then the switch will be useless because the drill is earthing itself on the
car.
Old starter motors fitted with a V-Belt pulley have endless applications both around the workshop and in the
home, and are particularly useful in place of 240 volt induction motors. For example, in washing machines or work
benches etc. Cogs or sprockets can be fitted in place of pulleys for heavy use such as winches etc.
The fitting of a Jacobs chuck opens the door to a wideassortmentof uses - in fact any ordinary drill accessory

17
 such as grinding whee1s, sanders, jig saw attachments, circular saws, bilge pumps, flexible drive lines, etc., can all be
used, often with greater efficiency than in the conventional drills.
Fan Operated Room Heater
Room heaters can quite easily be assembled by coiling a thin piece of wire around in the shape of a spring, then
connecting one end to the positive terminal and the other to the negative terminal of a 12 volt battery bank.
The wire will quickly heat up and glow red hot. Amperage draw is heavy until the wire glows red, then it drops and
stabilizes at an acceptable level. ---
For example, a thin strand of wire taken from a piece Q.[..clBttfeslinewire 60cm long will draw about 40 amps
initially, then quickly drop to about 20 aI1!P~ glows red, and then remains at this level.
Attach a small fan bla,defoa lig~or, ~g.: generator 'motor', and the soft current of air blowing through
_~eated element provides warm air for home heating. Note: Heat output can be increased by using
thicker wire. However, power consumption will rise accordingly.

HOME POWER PLANT OPTIONS and COMBINATIONS

Your entire home power plant layoutc,an be tailor made to your own specific requirements. There are so many com-
binations and variations available that it is neither practical nor desirable that we specify exactly how you should set
it up. Wehave, however, listed below guidelines, suggestions and recommendations.
On an overall basis we recommend using a 12 volt household system with inverters for operating specialized
appliances at 240 volts. The reasons for this are:
1. A wide range of 12 volt appliances are readily available from retail outlets. These range from radios, friqges
and television sets through to heavy-duty drills and workshop tools.
2. 12 volt power is easy and cheap to keep in 'storage' and on tap, whereas 240 volts is more difficult to store
and is dangerous. It is dangerous because the average person refuses to believe that an old car alternator or a
set of old 12 volt batteries can produce high and lethal voltages. This leads to situations where careless hand-
ling can result in serious accidents. Wehave had automotive mechanics inspecting our power set-up and when
cautioned against fiddling with connections while the unit was in operation, their typical comments have
been 'Look, mate, I work with these things (cars, batteries, alternators) all day, so I know what I'm doing'.
This attitude has nearly resulted in serious accidents on more than one occasion.
In a normal situation their reasoning is quite valid because a human cannot feel 12 volts and alternators
only go to about 20 volts on a car, which only gives a mild tingle. (Note: Spark plug leads will give a
sharp shock because the coil lifts the voltage from 12 volts to several thousands of volts.)
However, the main point is that most people are over-confident and casual in handling batteries and
alternators, therefore regardless of how well you have it all insulated and labelled with high voltage danger
signs, there will always be someone who thinks he knows best and forges ahead prodding and touching
with fingers and screwdrivers.
You are therefore well advised to use inverters with standard 240 volt 3 pin plug outlets for stepping up
your voltage from 12,24, or 36 to 240 as required. (See section on inverters.)
3. It is essential that you have a dual wiring system in your home. Low voltages, e.g.: 12 volts, require higher
amps to produce the same performance output from an appliance. High amps require heavier wiring, and
in any case you cannot run high and low voltages through the same wire at the same time.
We recommend you run your home on a basic 12 volt system. Your auxiliary wiring is then the 240V
system. The usual set-up is to have an inverter box in which your inverters draw the standard 12 or 24
volts from your battery bank and convert it to 240V. This inverter output is wired directly into the 240V
system. When you plug in a 240V appliance and switch it on the inverter automatically starts up and
delivers 240W through the safely enclosed wiring-system when you need it, and as often as you want it.
4. Always have your battery bank in a warm dry well-ventilated room. Do not use the battery room as a store
room for tools and instruments. Batteries give off hydrogen gas during charging which when in a confined
space reaches an inflammable and explosive density which can be easily ignited by sparks. In addition to
the explosive qualities of hydrogen, the' other minor gases and vapours are highly corrosive and have a
tendency to creep into the inner workings of expensive tools and measuring equipment, hence the other
reason for not using the battery shed as a store room. Note: Naked flames should never be used near
batteries at any time.
5. Your 12 volt wiring should be protected by fuses in the normal way. You will require heavier fuses, e.g.: 30
amps, to carry the higher amperage.
It is suggested that you build a smalJ control pane] with amp gauges, voltage gauges and fuses all together
so that you can easily monitor your power use. storage and charging rates, or in the event of breakdowns
you can easily isolate the fault and rectify the problem bd"ore it causes any inconvenience or interruption
to supply.

18
 All the gauges, fuses, etc. for a 12 volt system are readily available through any car accessory shop. If you
are running a 240 volt DC system then you will require a 250V DC gauge. These are difficult to locate
through ordinary retail outlets, but most gauge or instrument manufacturers will either have them in stock
or have access to them.
Normally the ordinary automotive amp gauge - zero to 60 - is sufficient, but if you are connecting two
55 amp alternators in parallel for welding etc., you will require the 150 amp gauge. (Most alternators will
go a bit above their rated output, so two 55 amp alternators will probably put out around 125 - 130 amps.)
Warning: With high amperage output you require heavy wiring- Always use insulated wiring rated above
your intended output. Any electrical store will be able to show you the correct wire size if you tell them the
am s and voltage it has to carry.
Low voltage, -7 m erage electrical systems require heavy switches. iigfitduty switches such as those used
in the normal 240 volt ld supply are not suitable. They are only designed to handle 15 amps. They
are dangerous and inadequate for stems. The high amperage of a 12 volt system will cause them to
overheat, arc across and can easily cause fires In . - n wthe in.;onvenience of swit.;h failure and
disrupted supply.
Heavy duty switches and power outlets are available from campervan
etc. ) suppliers. '--~-_.-
As a general rule, you can run 90% of household power requirements on a 12 volt system, and the re-
maining 10% on inverters changing 12, 24 or 36 volts DC into 240 AC. If you live in a remote location, you
can have a comfortable all-electric home without incurring the horrific expense of having the local county
council or electricity authority constructing lines and installing all their meters and paraphernali~.

ALTERNATIVE ENERGY DRIVE SYSTEMS

For maximumperformance,convenienceand easeof use,we have recommendedthat the power unit be drivenby
your car engine or a separate small petrol engine. ~

However, there are other driving methods which can be used, and apart from the initial set.up cosfthe runni~_-
costs are virtually zero. They are:
t. Direct from Water Power
The most common of these types of drive systems is a waterwheel (similar to the old paddle steamers) which is
turned by the force of fast running water flowing against it. The drive shaft is fitted with a V-Belt pulley which then
drives the alternator. If the water flow is reasonably constant then the alternator speed can be calculated and adjust.
ed by changing pulley sizes. (See previously for method of speed calculation) The main disadvantages with this sys-
tem are problems and damage caused by floods and floating debris, and of course the adjusting of alternator speed
current is not really practical in the sense of convenience and ease of operation.
2. Regulated Direct Flow Water Power
This method is basically the same as the old water wheel, except a large chute is constructed, channelling the water
SLUICE GATE TO CUT OFF
OR REGU LATE THE flOW

\
SPEED STEP-UP
DR IVE UNIT
FOR ALTERNATOR

'---...

19
directly down on \0 the fins of the water wheel.
The chute is fitted with a large 'gate-valve' which can be partly closed to restrict water flow, and therefore control
the drive power and speed, or it can be closed completely in times of flooding to protect the water wheel from dam-
age. Note; The fins of the water wheel should fit within the walls of the chute. This means the water has no escape
except to turn the wheel. Water captured in this manner exerts enormous driving force, particularly if you have a
long deep enclosed chute funnelling into a tapered driving point.
3. Water Powered On-Site Gravity Unit
This unit is designed for locations where the actual speed and volume of water are limited, or in cases where a more
precise form of shaft speed SQntrel is desirable. (Provided the shaft load is constant)
.
The water int 1S3TaTgediameter pipe fitted with a tap or valve to control water flow. The ~-Wbe~
sists of a la poked wheel with water troughs fitted to it. .-------
Tater flows down, fills the trough which then drops down, turning~;I, and it empties out at the bot-
m, so there is no counterbalancing weight as it travels up. A~{1i""TiOughs filling and following each other pro-
.
vides constantrgtatJn.1I power ~ /
Speed-cMt.b.eeasily controlled by closing or opening the tap, or by adjus~ the tilt (and therefore the capacity)
of each trough.. .
/" ~
This unit can be made to devel?p e~ormou~ po~r~plymcreasing the capacity of ea:h trough, and in-
creasmg the length of the 'spokes'. It ISonly 1l!!1jted1jythe volume of water and the speed wIth which the troughs
fill. A gravity unit is quite capable of providing enough torque and driving power to easily twist and snap a 25mm
.
solid steel drive shaft.
As an example, if you could imagine the shaft power of a one tonne weight pushing down on a 10 metre bar
attached to a shaft, then you will understand how and why enormous power is possible with this system. (ThiS"is an
extreme example which assumes your water flow is adequato:, and your troughs are big enough to hold one tonne of
water, and your 'spokes' are 10 metres long and s~ough to support one tonne.)
~
~~

THE WEIGH1 OF WATEFi

IN 'lliE BUCKETS
TURNS THE "HEE~

BUCKETS ARE E"PTY

ON THE 'up' STROIlE

BUCKETS AUTO"A TlCA~~Y

E"PTY AT BOTTO"
OF WHEn

WATER CHANNELEO !'OR OTHER PURPOSES

4. Water Powered Remote Location Gravity Unit

The mechanics of operation are exactly the same as the on-site unit, but has the added advantage of being located any-
where you want it to be, provided of course you have access to plenty of free water.
This unit is more suited to occasional use, such as charging a bank of batteries or supplying the peak load power
requirements, because constant water flow in high volume is not always practical.
In such cases as this we recommend the use of a large storage tank and a hydraulic water ram. The hydraulic ram

20
is a simple but liighly effective little piece of engineering design which operates on the principle of compressedair
pumping the water. It costs absolutely nothing to run (except an occasional rubber valve, which can be made from the
heel of an old rubber boot), but it pumps continuously day and night for years.
These hydraulic rams will pump water to heights of several hundreds of feet and over distances of several kilometres,
so if you have a large storagetank you can operate your gravityunit for quite a whilewith the force and flowof the
stored water. The storage tank will have a continuous flow of water coming into it from the hydraulic ram as the ram
willbe pumpingcontinuously day and night unlessyou 'lift the valve'and shut it off. -
The volume and force being pumped from the ram is not really enough to directly power a gravity w~
the large storage tank is essential. ~
Hydraulic rams are available in an assortment of sizes and pumping capabiJl.tieUrom--BT£VCO SUPPLIES PTY LTD,
1A Russell Street, Riverwood, NSW 2210. Prices ra~e fr~~.-()(Jupwards.

!MPETUS
VALVE
OPENS

"-
AiR CHAW8ER VAL VE Of LIVER V AIR CHAMf.ER VALI/E DELII/ERY
CLOSED PiPE P!PE
Of'EN
DIAGRAM No>. 2

HYDRAULIC RAM TABLE (Volumes & weights approx.)

Ram PIPES GallslLltres per min. Discharge Capacity Welaht

No. required to 0 erate Ram per hour when crated
Drive Discharge Galls. Litres Galls. Litres Ibs klls
3 1" 25mm ~" 15mm 1! - 4 5 - 1.8 1 0 - 20 45 - 91 55 25
4 H" 32mm ,"' 15mm 3 - 7 13 - 32 15 - 35 68 - 159 79 35
5 2" 50mm 34" 2cmn 6 -14 27 - 54 30 - 70 136 - 318 119 54
5 2~" 65mm 1" 25mm 12 - 25 55 -114 50 -125 273 - 568 198 90
7 3" 80mm H" 40mm 20 - 40 91 -182 100 -200 455 - 909 377 171
0 4" 1 OOmm 2" 50mm 25 - 100 114 -455 1 25 - 500 56B -2273 B51 386

The rams use the intake of water to compress air in a metal dome and part of the intake water is then pumped
while the majority spurts out as waste, and flows back to the main stream.
These rams will pump to heights well above those specified on the brochures - in fact 2 or 3 times as high. This is
done by increasing the length and diameter of the intake pipe. The only drawback is that the valve rubbers cut out
faster. However, the rubbers are only a circular piece of thick rubber and you can easily make them yourself for
a few cents.
5. Wind Power - Conventional Propeller Type Windmill
Construction of windmills can become involved, and there are many lengthy detailed books already on the market
so in this small section we will only outline the main principles. This basic infonnation will of course enable you to
make a reasonably efficient windmill, but if you intend to fully power your entire place with wind-generated energy
you would be well advised to purchase a book which is devoted entirely to this subject. Here are the basic facts;
(a) Most windmills for generating power seem to operate best on 2 or 3 blades set up with long slender blades
similar to an aeroplane propellor but not the same pitch (see illustration).
(b) Multi-bladed mills (Le.: with more than 3 blades) have a higher starting torque under load but do not spin
as fast. They are more suited for pumping water or for areas with low winds where the multi-bladed units
catch the breeze better and spin with a slow powerful style. The alternator can be geared up to be driven
faster by using either a chain drive or V-Belt or pulleys to spin the alternator much faster than the mill is
spinning.
(c) The alternator is usually set up as a direct drive from the windmill shaft because it changes direction to catch
the wind. A gearing set-up with cogs or pulleys etc. can still be set up in a similar way, but it tends to be more
cumbersome and on a high windmill lubrication and maintenance (belt replacement etc.) are inconvenient, so
usually the manufacturers opt for twin bladed units to spin faster on a direct drive system.
(d) Windmill power does not increase in the same proportion as the actual wind speed the power output actu- ~

ally increases much more rapidly. The actual power output is proportional to the cube of the wind speed.
For example, if the wind speed doubles you get eight times the power, not twice the power as you would
normally expect.

21
 (e) Windmill power increases dramatically by lengthening the blades. The power output is proportional to the
square at the diameter. This means that by doubling the blade length you will get four times the power,
not twice the power as might first be thought.
(I) The travelling speed of the propellor tips automatically increases with length, which means the long bladed
tip has to travel a much longer distance with each revolution. It therefore has to travel much faster to com-
plete one turn in the same time as a short one. This is very important because a long bladed windmill spinn-
ing at high speed is dangerous and can fly ap~rt through centrifugal force.
19T--wnen--romtructing a windmill you are advised to fit a 'wind brake' to limit the speed -in high winds. The
wind brake works-<m the principle of spring-loaded 'wings' opening up wjlQc?ntrifugal force and creating
an effective speed braking system-(see diagram). /----
-~/~
ConventionalWindmillStructure
The blades are like an aeroplane wing - a thick rounded leading edge tapering to a thin trailing edge. Note: These
diagrams are not drawn to scale. The "wind brake" is actually very small in relation to the blade length. In the
diagram the "wind brake" section has been increased in size to show the construction details more clearly.

Air Brake Closed. \)

b
ALTERNATOA

-----
\ EARTI-I
WIRE
--
OIRECTlONAL
TO ALIGN
DIRECTLY
VANE
BLADES
INTO THE
WINO

';'~;A:~:~ ....
CROSS SECTIOH
SHOWING THICK.8LUN1
/'
\ l
-. -! "I [l+. /- - - //
LEADING EDGE

AL.TERNATOR OUTJ>UT L.EAD

I '
-
- 1j.
h~~--'
'....,.'
/
.' "N~'
,,
"'~"'
TO COLLECTOR RING

.~..,
.," '."1
INSULATEO COLLECTOR ARM

ENTIRE TOP SECTION

/// / FREE 10 ROUTE
~~/
TO CATCH WINDS

LEADS TO BATTERY BANK

?---
D!kEClIO
RDi4,,,~
0
Air Brake in operation.
101<'(,

'.;;
,
HIGH 5PI=.ED~ tAU~E
AIR BRAKE VANES
TO OPERATEiDUE TO
CENTRIFUGAL FORCES

1-f---
J
Of
NORMAL
AIR
POSIT
BRA~E
iON
VANE

6. Wind Chute Power Turbine

This particular unit works on a similar principle to ventilating rotors. It spins at very high speed and comparatively low
torque, so it is often necessary to gear the alternator down, not gear it up as is desirable with a conventional
windmill.
This unit is designed specifically for construction by the home handyman, and because of its layout and ease of
operation it is more suited to a wide range of drive mechanisms and various power plant combinations both high -
and low voltages.
Basically the collector wings on the wind chute 'scoop the wind in' and blast it against the fins on the rotor
(similar to the water wheel), and the flared wings on the opposing side act as a venturi system (sucking system) to
create a vacuum within the rotor chamber to draw the air blast through with greater force.

22
 The unit is designed to sit at ground level and only turn within 1800 radius. This means it collects wind from all
directions and'automatically aligns itself with the direction of the breeze. Alternators operate just as effectively in
either direction, so a northerly breeze blowing the rotor in an opposite direction to a southerly breeze does not
create any problems.

THE UNIT CAN BE ROTATED 160.

TO SUIT WIND DIRECTION.
INLET AND OUTlET ARE EXCHANGEABLE.
ALTERNATOR WORKS JUST AS WELL
IN REVERSE.

"-
"- WIND
THE AROUND THE T"PERE 0 CJ
CAUSES A VENTURI (SUCTION I HI
TAPERED INLET CONCENTRATES WHICH ADDS [ITRA IMPETUS TO ..
THE WIND FORCE ONTO ROTOR WHEEL.
THE ROroR BLADES.

At this point it is useful to know the main disadvantages of a conventional propellor type windmill so that a real.
istic and accurate comparison can be made between the two systems, and a deeper more complete understanding will
evolve as you read on and mentally compare the two.
I. Construction of a windmill is difficult because of the need to build a high specially strengthened structure
and the need to fabricate the correct blade angle in accordance with other design features. (This is quite
involved and entire books have been written on this subject alone.)
The wind chute, on the other hand, is at ground level and does not require any special shaping or
strengthening. The turbine rotor consists of straight wood or steel plates attached to a shaft ( a piece of pip-
ing is OK), and these fins do not require any special shaping or graduated curves.
2. The wind chute unit only turns within 1800 radius or less, so you do not have problems of tang1ed power
leads or having to fabricate a special 'transfer ring' to accomodate the 3600 turning and twisting as the coo-
ventional windmill moves around to line up with the breeze.
3. Speed power of the wind chute turbine is easy to control by simply fitting a sliding door to shut off wind
going into the turbine chamber, and because the turbine is enclosed it is always safe.
The conventional propellor windmill is very dangerous in high winds, and the fabrication and effective-
ness of the wind brake set-up does pose difficulties, and speed and power regulation is neither precise nor
convenient. (The spring tension has to be changed to adjust the brake cut in point and even then speed
cannot be properly regulated.)
Publishers' Note: Our policy in general content, layout and presentation of facts in our manuals is to provide pract-
ical information and knowledge to the average home handyman with an average set of tools, using readily available
materials and components. The dangers of disintegration of conventional windmills in high winds does not apply to
commercially manufactured units. Stresses are carefully calculated and the entire construction is expertly designed
and re-inforced at all stress points to withstand the severest of conditions and still retain a more than adequate
safety margin.

WELDING CAP ABILITIES

Your power unit with its wide range of amp/voltage combinations gives you a tool of working flexibility equal to the
best of electric arc welders. In fact its capabilities are far in excess of the average 240 volt arc welders on the market
today. There is however a minor disadvantage in that the alternators tend to overheat if welding for long periods. This
is no real disadvantage for the average handyman as this unit is quite capable of performing all that is required by the
D.LY. enthusiast.
Arc Welding
Arc welding is performed in exactly the same way as with a conventional welder. The job is grounded by connecting
the negative lead to the alternator casing in the normal way and clamping the other end to the welding job.

23
 The electrode holder welding lead is attached to the output terminal on the alternator. Note: The welding lead is
simply an insulated wire thick enough to carry the high amps without overheating. Electrode holders can be purchas-
ed from any welding suppliers. The actual arc welding style and procedure is exactly the same as if using a convention-
al welder.
Electrode holders, leads, etc. and books on arc welding are available from SILVERWATER WELDING SUPPLIES,
37 Newton St, Auburn, NSW 2144, ph. 6481868.
Basically, arc welding is simple and easy to master with practice. Scratch the electrode on the steel as if striking a
match, then hold the tip of the electrode just above the surface. This stabilizes the arc, then move it slowly along. If
the electrode spits and sputters the amperage is probably too high. If the electrode sticks to the job, the amperage
is probably too low or the distance between the electrode and the job is not wide enough. If the slag chips off easily,
the weld is OK.
-
Note: Set your alternator speed to produce about 40 50 volts, and the amps setting will depend on the size electrode
you are using. The recommended amp ,ange is printed on the box of welding rods (electrodes).
Warning: Always use the proper arc welding shield or helmet. The intense light given off during welding and heating
will instantly 'sunburn' the eyeballs. If this occurs use eye drops, and rest with the eyes closed. Your eyes will feel as
though they have sand or glass in them, but will normally be OK in a day or so.
Fusion Welding
Fusion welding is heating the metals to a molten stage and they fuse together. This is usually only possible with the
intense heat of an oxyacetylene flame. However, by using a special copper coated DC carbon arc electrode in con-
junction with your alternator power unit, this intense heat can be generated almost instantly, and is fully controllable
both in direction and intensity.
A special adaptor has to be fabricated for attaching to your normal electrode holder (see diagram). The carbon arc
rods are too thick to fit in the average electrode holder. (Jumper leads can be used in emergencies; the carbon arc rod
being held in the jaws of the jumper lead clamp.)

SPECIAL ADAPTOR.

CARBON ARC ROO

SPECIA L
CARBON ARC ROD
ADAPTOR
~

G~
BAR

INTEN"SE BLUE FLAME

ARKS ONTO METAL SURFACE
MELTING AND FUSING METAL TOGETHER
~
The connecting procedure is exactly the same as for arc welding. The carbon electrode arcs down on to the steel
with an intense blue flame. The heat and intensity can be varied by regulating the alternator speed. Experiment with
amp/voltage combinations to suit your own style and requirements. As a guideline 20 amps at 30 - 40 volts gives a
.moderate flame for thin metals. Seventy amps at 40 - 50 volts using a 7mm carbon rod will easily melt and cut steel
.plate or fusion weld heavy steel. Note: Oxy welding wire is used in the normal way as a filler ro build up the weld.
Spot Welding
~pot welding is used for joining thin sheet metal such as car panels. It is basically melting a spot of steel and fusing it
together. In the past this was only possible using special equipment costing over one thousand dollars and arcing
clamps had to be fitted to each side of the panel. Using your carbon arc adaptor and power unit, you can spot weld
from one side of the panel only, and still create a strong solid neat job.
Spot welding is particularly useful for rust repairs because it eliminates the complications and problems of heat
distortion of flat panels in areas such as car doors, etc.
When using the single carbon for spot welding, use an alternator of about 35 amps and run the voltage to about 40.

24
Place the carbon tip on the metal for a few seconds until it glows fer!. then slowly lift it straight up until a strong
flame arcs on the metal. Hold it for 2 - 3 seconds depending on metal thickness, then lift it straight off to extingu-
ish the flame.It willmelt the two metal panelstogether forminga strongspot weld. . --=
If you have difficult in holding the arc steady, then you can purchase a spot welding 'gun' from SOVEREIGN
WELDING CENTRE, P.O. Box 792, Murwillumbah, NSW 24~4~ It.i~:l..Pis~arrangement with an interchange-
able 2 or 4 prong base to hold the carbon in position~nd a trigger to precisely con~~_~or quick
convenient spot welding it is a very-'-!sefultool. --."
Heating ~~
FQIh~oses uSetwo carbons arcing together (see diagram). The positive and negative leads are each conne~
ed to the carbon arc rod holders. The job is not earthed at all because the carbons are arcing together-and---the--iIeafand
flame is maintained regardless of whether it is near steel or not.
- ...
LEADS TO ALTERNATOROUTPUT
AND ALTERNATOR EARTH

CARSON ARC RODS ~

"
TIMBER HAND-GRIP

METAL SURFACE
BEING HEATED 1
""~

This torch is very useful for all heating jobs ranging from burning paint off and loosening rusted bolts through to
heating steel to near melting point for shaping and bending. (Note: Far very precise bending of heavy steel, the single
arc creates a more fiercely concentrated flame.)
The twin carbon torch has a larger heat/flame area, and is more versatile in so far as it does not extinguish itself
when taken away from the metal surface as does the single carbon.
Use both a positive and a negative DC carbon arc rod when using the twin carbon torch. (Either positive or negative
can be used with the single carbon arrangement.)
Both carbons must be nearly touching each other to ignite the arcing flame, then draw them apart slightly until a
steady intense flame stabilizes.
The diagram shows how to make your own twin carbon arc torch. However, ready.made units with a convenient
carbon adjusting knob on the handle are available from SILVERWATER WELDING SUPPLIES. The cost is reason-
able and for outright convenience and ease of operation, they are unbeatable.
Brazing
About 30 - 40 amps is best, and use the twin carbon torch to braze in the normal way. Single carbons can be used
for precise heating, by sharpening the carbon with a pencil sharpener. On thin metal keep the carbon in contact
with the metal until it glows and heats up. then reduce the current strength and arc a soft flame onto the metal.

Soldering
Use a single carbon and keep it in contact with the metal. Do not arc it on to the metal. It will begin to glow and
heat the metal. Reduce current strength if too intense.
On thin metal it is often easier to solder by heating the metal from the opposite side. The solder will follow
along the cleaned and heated area. Very fine soldering is best accomplished by using a piece of wire about 20cms
long held in the electrode holder in place of the carbon. Keep the tip of the wire in contact with the metal surface,
and it will heat up (and glow red if required).
Cutting
Use a single carbon, sharpe!! the point and clamp in your alternator so that about 4cms are protruding below the
adaptor. Use a high amperage set-up, then arc it on to the steel, starting from one edge which should be slanted
down to enable the molten metal to flow away from the cut.
If you cannot tilt the job up on a sharp angle, slart the cut from the underside.
When cutting large holes in steel plate over 6mm thick, it is best to drj)] a series of holes nearly touching each
other. In this way the carbon has oniy to cut through the thin walls separating each hole, and the holes themselves
assist in clearing away the molten metal. By using this method you can cut steel up to 50 .60mm thick. The holes
should be close together and the drill size shou1dbe at least 6mm, preferably larger - ) 3mmis ideal.

25
Place the carbon tip on the metal for a few seconds until it glows rer, then slowly lift it straight up until a strong
flame arcs on the metal. Hold it for 2 - 3 seconds depending on metal thickness, then lift it straight off to extingu-
ish the flame. It will melt the two metal panels together forming a strong spot weld.
If you have difficult in holding the arc steady, then you can purchase a spot welding 'gun' from SOVEREIGN
WELDING CENTRE, P.O. Box 792, Murwillumbah, NSW 24R4.. It is..~.is~ arrangement with an interchange-
able 2 or 4 prong base to hold the carbon in positi(malld a trigger to precisely cO~.dU.~e~ For quick
convenient spot welding it is a very Ilsefultool. ~_.
Heating ~~/

FOLhea1ing--ptn-osesusetwo carbons arcing together (see diagram). The positive and negative leads are each connect. .
ed to the carbon arc rod holders. The job is not earthed at all because the carbons are arcing ~
flame is maintained regardless of whether it is near steel or 11Dt.
~
LEADS TO ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
AND ALTERNATOR EARTH

CARBON ARC RODS~

,
TIMBER HAND.GRIP

METAL SURFACE
BEING HEATED I

"'\,

This torch is very useful for all heating jobs ranging from burning paint off and loosening rusted bolts through to
heating steel to near melting point for shaping and bending. (Note: Far very precise bending of heavy steel, the single
arc creates a more fiercely concentrated flame.)
The twin carbon torch has a larger heat/flame area, and is more versatile in so far as it does not extinguish itself
when taken away from the metal surface as does the single carbon.
Use both a positive and a negative DC carbon arc rod when using the twin carbon torch. (Either positive or negative
can be used with the single carbon arrangement.)
Both carbons must be nearly touching each other to ignite the arcing flame, then draw them apart slightly until a
steady intense flame stabilizes.
The diagram shows how to make your own twin carbon arc torch. However, ready-made units with a convenient
carbon adjusting knob on the handle are available from SILVER WATER WELDING SUPPLIES. The cost is reason-
able and for outright convenience and ease of operation, they are unbeatable.
Brazing
About 30 - 40 amps is best, and use the twin carbon torch to braze in the normal way. Single carbons can be used
for precise heating, by sharpening the carbon with a pencil sharpener. On thin metal keep the carbon in contact
with the metal until it glows and heats up, then reduce the current strength and arc a soft flame onto the metal.

Soldering
Use a single carbon and keep it in contact with the metal. Do not arc it on to the metal. It will begin to glow and
heat the metal. Reduce current strength if too intense.
On thin metal it is often easier to solder by heating the metal from the opposite side. The solder will follow
along the cleaned and heated area. Very fine soldering is best accomplished by using a piece of wire about 20cms
long held in the electrode holder in place of the carbon. Keep the tip of the wire in contact with the metal surface,
and it will heat up (and glow red if required).
Cutting
Use a single carbon, sharpen the point and clamp in your alternator so that about 4cms are protruding below the
adaptor. Use a high amperage set-up, then arc it on to the steel, starting from one edge which should be slanted
down to enable the molten metal to flow away from the cut.
If you cannot tilt the job up on a sharp angle, start the cut from the underside.
When cutting large holes in steel plate over 6mm thick, it is best to drill a series of holes nearly touching each
other. In this way the carbon has oniy to cut through the thin walls separating each hole. and the holes themselves
assist in clearing away the molten metal. By using this method you can cut steel up to 50 - 60mm thick. The holes
should be close together and the drill size should be at least 6mm, preferably larger -- 13mm is ideal.

26