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Retailing
N E W S L ET T E R
PROGRAM SUMMARY
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In 2009, H&M’s business concept was to offer fashion were affected by consumption being more restrained,
and quality at the best price. i The firm specialized in fast although we continued to increase our market shares in
fashion. H&M’s in-house designers were encouraged to increasingly competitive markets. H&M stands strong and
interpret fashion trends, and create new fashions quickly we are focusing on the future. The economic situation is
that were accessible to all through the convenience of creating great opportunities that we are going to take, for
H&M’s many storefronts. The stores’ inventories were example in terms of access to new attractive commercial
revitalized daily to enable the company to keep up with locations and being in a strong position to negotiate. This
the pace of changing fashion trends. Quality was a central year we plan to open a net amount of 225 new stores
issue to H&M. The company had tester stores where new and recruit 6,000 to 7,000 new employees.” iii
Throughout the late 1990s and 2000s, H&M expanded H&M market, Inditex signed a joint deal with the Indian
rapidly. The company entered the United States market in conglomerate, Tata, to move Zara stores into India by
2000, and as of 2009 had 169 stores in the United States. 2010. v Globally, Zara and H&M were locked in a race
As of January 31, 2009, H&M had 1,741 stores in 33 to control the fast fashion market in 2009 and beyond.
countries. ii Exhibit 1 outlines where the company was Analysts were not sure who would win. Zara focused its
located as of November 2008. The company’s goal for efforts in major European and global cities, while H&M
the 2009 fiscal year was to expand the number of stores focused on geographic market saturation in fewer countries.
by 10 to 15 percent per year, while increasing sales in Zara designed, produced, and manufactured products in
existing stores. H&M planned to finance all of this Europe, while H&M outsourced all manufacturing to mostly
growth through reinvestment of company funds. Exhibits Asia. Both companies planned to expand in 2009 during
2 and 3 present the H&M income statement and balance an economic crisis. Would this be a good decision? Would
sheet. In 2008, the company opened an additional 216 the companies have to change their strategies? Who would
stores while expanding into new countries such as Japan, win the race for market share?
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The concept of fast fashion was pioneered by Zara. Fast the latest couture fashion trends while others were more
fashion’s central concept was to provide customers new classic in style. Fast-fashion retailers typically beat high-
products in limited supply at a constant rate. Customers fashion designers to the market due to their efficient
felt an exclusivity and impulse to buy products in fast- manufacturing and distribution channels. In addition, the
fashion stores because it was not guaranteed that the item products were less expensive because fast-fashion retailers
would remain on the shelves for long or that the company used less expensive fabrics and benefited from economies
would restock the item once it sold out. Fast-fashion of scale. The fast-fashion system depended on the strength
retailers created and distributed tens of thousands of new of the companies’ supply chains and tester stores.
Companies such as H&M and Zara tested small batches
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of new designs in tester stores and if the designs sold out, Prepaid expenses 147 106 94
641 353 280
more products were ordered and put into stores quickly.
Short-term investments 819 1,463
Fast fashion appealed to everyone from celebrities, fash- Liquid funds 3,517 2,686 1,651
ionistas, and bargain shoppers to Michelle Obama on the Total current assets 5,474 5,191 4,602
changed the name to Hennes & Mauritz (H&M). vii Total liabilities 2,212 1,612 1,300
Total equity and liabilities 7,930 6,978 5,945
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Values and Culture first-quarter profits, and posted weak February 2009
H&M was driven by its core values of teamwork, believing results. xi Many analysts believed that this was a sign that
in people, simplicity, salesmanship, fast-pace working, the fashion retailer was negatively impacted by the
cost-consciousness, constant improvements, and entrepre- economic slowdown. Two weeks prior to posting results,
neurship. viii H&M had a strong culture built around its H&M’s Eriksen said “with retail sales across the globe
expansive history and a strong desire to maintain the highest plunging, many retailers face a bleak future. However,
standards of corporate responsibility. In order to foster H&M finds the low retail prices as an advantage in poor
corporate responsibility, H&M compiled a CSR Report economic conditions. I won’t say it [the crisis] will help us,
on an annual basis. The company focused on supplier but we won’t be hurt so much. … We plan to open five
working conditions, sustainable supply chain practices, stores this spring in China, including two in Beijing, and
and cultural awareness. will open one more in the autumn.” xii Two weeks later,
after the first quarter results were posted, an H&M repre-
Eriksen remarked, “H&M for me is a business based on sentative was quoted in saying sales “were affected by
teamwork, humility and respect for people. At the same a continued restrained consumption due to the current
time we are cost-conscious and have a competitive instinct recession.” xiii Analysts believed that the results were worse
that makes us aim for constant improvements. We have than expected due to rising costs, including expenses from
experienced fantastic growth, but we are always heading opening new stores as well as worse-than-expected
toward the next challenge.” ix currency exposure. In February 2009, total sales rose
Environmental Analysis 1 percent from February 2008; however, sales from stores
open for more than a year fell 8 percent signaling an
During the global economic recession of 2009, both H&M
overall real decrease in sales. xiv Many questioned whether
and Zara decided to continue their global expansion. In
H&M should consider slowing down its expansive growth.
March 2009, The Wall Street Journal reported that Zara
However, H&M remained upbeat and stated that it
posted strong sales gains that illustrated how low prices
“remains positive toward future expansion and the
and rapid response to fashion trends enabled it to
company’s business opportunities.” xv
compete with Gap Inc. for highest global specialty apparel
retail sales. In contrast, Gap reported a drop in sales for H&M Strategy
2008. Exhibit 4 compares total sales, profit, and margin In 2009, H&M employed a combination of strategies in
for the three leading global clothing retailers Gap, H&M, order to be one of the world’s leading clothing retailers
and Zara. As Exhibit 4 illustrates, H&M and Zara saw by sales. H&M’s collections were created by in-house
increasing sales from 2004 to 2007 while prior to the designers whose primary goal was to offer its customers
recession Gap began to see flattening to decreasing sales. the latest fashion trends at the best price. H&M’s strategy
During the recession, it seemed that retailers who special- depended on keeping its prices low so that it could pass
ized in low prices and efficient supply chains fared best. on its cost savings to the end customer. In order to keep
In March 2009, Lars Olofsson, chief executive officer of prices low, H&M limited the number of middlemen in its
Carrefour, mentioned that “Ikea, Lidl, Wal-Mart, Tesco, supply chain, bought in large volumes, outsourced its
Zara, H&M—they have for the last 20, 30 years hammered manufacturing to low-cost areas of the world, had a
on the same nail every time.” x culture of cost-consciousness at all levels, and maintained
an efficient distribution system.
In contrast to Zara, H&M seemed to be struggling in
March 2009. H&M reported a 12 percent drop in 2009
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H&M 2008 H&M 2007 H&M 2006 Inditex 2008 Inditex 2007 Inditex 2006 GAP 2008 GAP 2007 GAP 2006
Sales $13,700 $13,099 $11,436 $13,946 $12,800 $10,527 $14,526 $15,763 $15,923
GM% 61.5% 61.1% 59.5% 56.7% 56.2% 56.2% 37.5% 36.1% 35.5%
GM$ $8,429 $8,000 $6,799 $7,906 $7,195 $5,915 $5,447 $5,692 $5,657
Net Income $2,367 $2,272 $1,805 $1,848 $1,564 $1,254 $967 $833 $778
Pentagon Activities: Place Store Size, Layout and Design, and Sales Channels
Location
In 2009, H&M used three complementary sales channels:
The availability of attractive business locations was a stores, Internet, and catalogs. H&M believed that its most
significant determining factor when it came to where H&M important channel was its stores.
Location was so important to H&M that it claimed it would Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, Regent Street in London, and
rather wait until the right storefront was available instead Queen’s Road in Hong Kong. Recently, the group was
of accepting a second choice. H&M focused its analysis on raising the standard of its stores and developing new con-
the local customer base, competition within the area, and cepts for store interiors. Its flagship stores were increas-
customer traffic flow. It also looked at the possibility of ingly inspirational design experience for its customers.
In addition to looking at a wide variety of location factors, feet. xvi Sources estimated that H&M achieved more than
H&M believed that controlled growth while maintaining $600 of sales per square foot of gross leasable space.
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Although Internet sales were increasing more than catalog had a good chance of it being available the next day. This
sales, H&M executives believed that catalogs remained an created the sense of the need to go to the H&M store on
important part of its sales strategy. The company pub- a regular basis to find the best deals. One loyal customer
lished four catalogs per year: two for fall and two for stated that “I’m an H&M bulimic. … You have to dig, sort,
spring. Each catalog had a different theme and highlighted and slave for a bargain. I wear light clothes to go shopping
seasonal changes and fashion trends. Catalogs were sent there because otherwise you’re so hot you’d lose 50 kilos.”xvii
out at the beginning of each season and created interest
Designs
in the new collection. Most merchandise offered in the
catalogs also was available in stores. The catalogs gave the H&M worked to create a balance between fashion, quality,
customers an overview of the entire season’s collection and low price. H&M had a culture of teamwork in which
as well as fashion tips and ideas for the coming season. the designers, pattern makers, and buyers created the
Catalogs offered a way for H&M to stay personally collections together. Designers monitored the world, and
connected to its customer base. drew inspiration from street and runway fashion, films,
and history. Designs and styles were centered on a unique
Product
combination of trendy, fashionable pieces as well as basic
Merchandise Intensity and Assortment classic pieces. The overall theme and most pieces for
a collection were planned up to a year in advance while
H&M was known to operate its stores at a very high level
H&M’s trendiest clothing was picked up on short notice. xviii
of merchandise intensity, particularly as related to arch
competitor, Zara. The company also carried relatively Each H&M collection was planned, designed, and created
broad assortments. At any given time, H&M was working at the H&M headquarters in Stockholm by more than 100
on several trend directions at once. According to company staff designers and many guest designers. H&M believed
sources, one trend is always tailored, one sporty, one that understanding what customers wanted was paramount
ethnic, one romantic, and one futuristic. Each trend could to its success. It created the “Idea to Store” concept, in
be found in every department—women, men, young, and which the desires of the end customer were the key
children. H&M prided itself on its constantly changing focus throughout the entire design process. The designers
range of products. The H&M design team also focused on offered different concepts for different customers. H&M
what was popular during the previous season and where. served men, women, and children of all ages who had
Customer demand in different markets and stores deter- different fashion preferences. The designers adapted
mined the merchandise assortment for an area of the global influences and trends to styles and clothing cuts
world, or store in general. The size and location of a store that fit the diverse needs of its customers. Colors, quality,
factored into what merchandise would be shipped to that themes, silhouettes, and certain types of garments
store. High fashion, limited quantity garments were combined together to create each season’s collection.
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“Quality work is a living process that is constantly devel- The H&M Annual Report featured comments by several
oping. The goal is to make our products durable, easy to sales associates and store managers regarding their jobs: xxiv
use, practical, and safe.” xix
First Associate. How did you first come in contact with
People H&M? “Through H&M’s website. I had been looking at the
H&M believed that its employees were its most valuable website ever since I heard H&M was coming to Japan.” Why
asset. In fiscal year 2007, H&M employed approximately did you apply for a job here? “H&M believes in people, and
68,000 employees. The average number translated into after I heard about H&M’s values, I was very interested in
full-time jobs was 47,029. xx Exhibit 1 lists H&M’s markets working here.” How did you learn to do your job? “We spent
as of 2008 and each market’s number of employees and five days in a classroom in Tokyo learning about H&M’s
gender. Worldwide, 80 percent of H&M employees were history, values, clothing presentation, and much more.”
women; among employees with a position of responsi- What’s the best thing about working at H&M? “Teamwork,
bility, 76 percent were women. xxi H&M’s employment I would have to say. I respect all of my colleagues, and
H&M believed that the opportunity for personal growth choice.” Why do you want to work with fashion? “Because it’s
a fantastic way of expressing your personality.” What do
created an attractive workplace. It believed that each
you expect from your job? “I hope I can put my creativity
employee had the ability to use common sense, assume
in the service of my colleagues and gain new ideas from
responsibility, and assume individual initiatives. These
them and the customers. I would like to see everybody
three qualities created the “H&M Spirit.” xxii H&M encour-
leave the store with a smile on their face.” How did you
aged continued education and offered courses with an
learn to do your job? “The introduction was intense—there
emphasis on skill development.
was really a lot to learn! Everybody on the team helped
The company developed its employees’ careers through out and provided support and people told me they
job rotations. By rotating through customer service, the appreciated my ideas.”
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Third Associate. What are you expecting of your job? on the shelves and in the display areas. Finally, I check
“A wonderful team that makes it fun to work. It’s exciting to to make sure the signage is inviting and inspiring. At
meet so many different kinds of customers, too. And then lunchtime, we meet again to discuss the priorities for the
there are the development opportunities for me and the afternoon. After that, we continue to focus on customers
team.” How did you learn to do your job? “I felt welcome, and sales.” What is special about the store where you
even though there was a lot to learn; I could always count work? “Our fantastic team. Even though there are a lot of
on help from my colleagues. During the first few weeks, us, it feels like a big family, and that’s what makes work
there was one colleague in particular who helped me with fun.” What’s the best thing about working at H&M? “Every
everything.” What’s the best thing about working at H&M? day is a new challenge, so it’s never boring, and there are
“The team and the many opportunities to develop and many opportunities to develop and take on new responsi-
take on new challenges. It is really fun to try new things bilities.” How do you inspire your colleagues? “By working
and meet so many different kinds of people every day.” with the team and maintaining open communications, and
by taking part and providing support.”
First Manager. What is a typical day at work like for you?
“The day begins with deliveries. Then, I review the goals Communications and Brand
for the day for every department with all the floor managers.
H&M believed that part of its competitive advantage was
After that, I spend most of the day out in the store,
its strong brand. It promoted its brand through stores,
because I believe in symbolic leadership, but also in order
magazines, catalogs, public relations (PR) activities, events,
to meet our customers.” What is special about the store
designer collaborations, collections, and fashion shows.
where you work? “We have a fantastic atmosphere, are
The company maintained its brand through making fashion
very structured and professional yet have a lot of fun. The
available for everyone, icon and designer collaborations,
employees are very committed.” What’s the best thing
and using the same message worldwide. The company’s
about working at H&M? “The people and the possibilities.
underlining goal was to have each activity promote its
H&M is a workplace where you can achieve your full
brand and concept of “fashion and quality at the
potential.” How do you inspire your colleagues’ enthu-
best price.”
siasm? “By being a good example. I love working at H&M,
and I’m passionately dedicated to my work. I believe that Store openings were paramount to promoting the H&M
makes me a role model. I also try to inspire the team to brand throughout the world. For example, in April 2009,
be creative, take responsibility and develop.” What is the H&M launched its first store in Beijing, China. The brand
biggest challenge for a store manager? “Keeping a cool new store was located in a newly developed shopping
head amidst everything that’s happening. I have to main- area in the center of the cultural capital. To celebrate the
tain a consistent, professional attitude toward employees opening, H&M planned an elaborate event that entailed
and customers even if I’m having a bad day.” the gathering of Beijing’s celebrities, fashion crowd, and
media. The first experience of the H&M store left a strong
Second Manager. What is a typical day at work like for
impression among the guests, who dressed their personal-
you? “We start the day with a review of our turnover and
ities in H&M’s various party styles to glamorize the
other sales figures. After that, I have brief conversations
event. xxv By making fashion available to everyone, H&M
with all the assistant managers. I feel it’s important to stay
became the store for the everyday fashion-conscious
in close contact with my colleagues and I make time to do
consumer. New merchandise arrived daily at each store.
so. I have a look at the store floor and displays; they have
Flashy, fun marketing campaigns were launched frequently.
to look neat and tidy, and there has to be enough clothing
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The store and its window displays were H&M’s most Africa to mediate contact between the internal buying
important channel of communication with customers, department and the independent suppliers. These offices
and the right design was particularly important. Every two also identified new suppliers and negotiated contracts
or three years, H&M created a brand new interior design with them.
program for a large number of stores based on one new,
Purchasing flexibility was central to the Hennes & Mauritz
special store in an interesting market. “Simple, smart, and
strategy. The pattern of seasonal flexibility that applies
sustainable” were the keywords for the latest store design
to many retail fashion stores was changed at H&M in
update, which was to be rolled out in 2009. xxvi
the 1960s. Instead, buyers started to purchase 12 times
H&M also collaborated with celebrities and iconic a year, making rapid switches of fashion possible. In their
designers to strengthen its brand position. In spring 2009, cultural perception, management perceived the company
H&M collaborated with designer Matthew Williamson. as being very informal in terms of decision-making
Williamson debuted his exclusive H&M collection at the processes. The director of development said,
first Beijing store opening in April of that year. His collec- “We know from previous experience that decision making
tion included iconic pieces from his past collections com- is based 90 percent on feeling and 10 percent on history.”
bined with new trendy, colorful pieces. This line was Nevertheless, company tactics were extremely visible to
available exclusively at H&M stores worldwide. One of employees. The first CEO introduced “takten” (the pace),
H&M’s most popular celebrity campaigns was in spring an instrument that still remains in place and now sup-
2007 when it partnered with style icon and mega super- ported by information and communications technology
star Madonna to promote its line of clothing. By partnering (ICT). This was a visible list that arrived weekly; showing
with celebrities and designers, H&M added legitimacy to each buyer how much has been sold in the stores of each
its concept and message of fashionable clothing for all. particular product. Everyone understood the risks involved
in falling short, and, according to several sources, the
Triangle Activities
saying “shape up or ship out” was always present in
Operations
the background.
The purchasing department used six factors to determine Gap’s minimum turnaround was three months.
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closely with the production offices, and ICT was a crucial shipment. It used a combination of factors including time
tool used to follow sales and make intelligent choices. and environmental impact. It preferred to ship products
A benefit of owning the stores was that they shared a by train. It preferred to ship efficiently with high utilization
common ICT platform where all sales were reported. Thus, rates and ship directly to the sales country. After the
the procurement and logistics employees could keep track merchandise was received and checked it was either
of sales and stock status (at individual stores as well as at distributed directly to the store or to a central restocking
the central warehouse). warehouse. Store shelves were replenished based on
individual item and store demand.
From idea to store, H&M controlled every link in its supply
chain. Most of its products were shipped by boat. The The individual stores did not have backup stocks; they
company used trains, trucks, and planes to transport were replenished as required from central stockrooms.
products. This flexibility resulted in a more efficient system As soon as a product was sold a request was sent for
than those of its individual suppliers. The company also replenishment. Every day, the H&M stores received
used an information technology (IT) system to record and new goods.
produce rapid feedback about the popularity of certain
The most significant triangle challenges for Hennes &
items and individual store results on a daily basis. This
Mauritz were thought to be (1) continuous expansion;
system helped the purchasing and distribution teams
(2) cost-efficient production and logistics; and
know what items needed to be shipped where.
(3) reduction of lead times.
Once the goods were manufactured, they were shipped
Competition
using H&M external contract companies, generally to the
Gap Inc.
company’s central warehouse in Hamburg. However,
shipping also could be to the national offices (if the Gap historically was a strong competitor in the fashion
goods were country specific), or directly to the store if industry. Exhibit 5 illustrates Gap Inc.’s annual sales from
the quantities were large enough. This transaction model 1999–2008. As the chart shows, Gap maxed out its
is depicted in the diagram (Figure 1). xxviii H&M chose annual revenue at approximately $16.3 million in sales
the most appropriate transportation method for each per year in 2004. In 2007, Gap had 3,100 stores in six
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13,000
Analysts believed that Gap’s demise was due to the fact 12,000
10,000
the trend toward fast fashion and best price, Gap con-
1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008
tinued to offer basic pieces at higher price levels. Even its
other stores, such as Old Navy and Banana Republic, were pany relied on ever-evolving fashion trends to increase
scrutinized for forgetting their respective target markets. inventory turnover throughout the stores. Zara was known
Gap’s loss of customers resulted in major financial implica- for ordering small batches of items that would not be
tions for the company. As Exhibits 4 and 6 indicate, reordered once sold out. This practice created a sense of
Gap was the world leader in annual sales in 2008; how- urgency for customers to visit Zara stores frequently and
ever, both its profit margin and net income were lower buy immediately. This was one of Zara’s strongest, most
than Inditex and H&M’s. In addition, Gap’s productivity was important competitive advantages. (See Exhibits 10 and
significantly lower than H&M and Inditex, and had dropped 11 for Inditex’s Income Statement and Balance Sheet.)
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H&M 2008 H&M 2000 Inditex 2008 Inditex 2000 GAP 2008 GAP 2000
Derived by casewriter from
Gross Margin 61.5% 50.6% 56.7% 50.5% 37.1% 37.5%
case exhibits
SI Index 10.43 6.84 9.37 10.67 9.65 7.18
Cost of Revenue, Total 9,079 10,071 10,266 10,145 “Gap (GPS)”. www.google.com/finance
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our core values.” He concluded, “We also EXHIBIT 9: GAP BALANCE SHEETxxxix
Prepaid Expenses - - - -
Goodwill, Net - - - -
Intangibles, Net - - - -
Long-Term Investments - - - -
Minority Interest - - - -
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EXHIBIT 10: INDITEX INCOME STATEMENTxxxv EXHIBIT 11: INDITEX BALANCE SHEETxxxvi
(In Millions USD) 2007 2006 2005 (In Millions USD) 1/31/2008 1/31/2007 1/31/2006
Assets
Net sales 13,946 12,800 10,527
Current Assets 4,407 3,355 3,196
Cost of merchandise (6,040) (5,605) (4,612)
Cash and cash equivalents 2,167 1,415 1,544
Gross profit 7,906 7,195 5,915
Receivables 685 568 511
Operating expenses (4,769) (4,373) (3,587)
Inventories 1,489 1,287 1,069
Other net operating expenses
and income (39) (27) (49) Income tax receivable 3 33 48
Amortization and depreciation (734) (677) (571) Noncurrent assets 6,096 5,612 4,929
EBIT 2,442 2,118 1,708 Property, plant, and equipment 4,704 4,355 3,764
Financial results 1 (22) 13
Investment property 14 19 22
Equity accounting losses (11) (4) (0)
Rights over leased assets 746 709 641
Income before taxes 2,433 2,092 1,720
Other intangible assets 20 24 14
Income tax (573) (515) (454)
Goodwill 186 155 124
Net income 1,859 1,577 1,266
Financial investments 53 52 95
Minorities 11 13 12
Investments in associates – 7 11
Net income attributable
to the parent 1,848 1,564 1,254 Deferred tax assets 197 139 121
Liabilities – – –
Inditex 2007 Annual Report
Current liabilities 3,634 2,943 2,890
Provisions 70 70 66
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i2008 Annual Report. xivKinnander, Ola. “H&M’s Earnings Fall 12%, Missing
http://www.hm.com/filearea/corporate/fileobjects/pdf/en/ Expectations.” The Wall Street Journal. March 27, 2009.
ANNUAL_REPORT_ARCHIVE2008__ITEM_3_1237462089192.pdf.
xvKinnander, Ola. “H&M’s Earnings Fall 12%, Missing
March 23, 2009.
Expectations.” The Wall Street Journal. March 27, 2009.
ii“H&M Group Sales Development in January.”
xvi“Facts About H&M.”
http://www.hm.com/us/investorrelations/
financialreports/salesdevelopment/financepressrelease. http://www.hm.com/filearea/corporate/fileobjects/pdf/en/
ahtml?pressreleaseid=409569&nodeid=563. RM_DOWNLOAD_FACTSANDHISTORY_FACTSABOUTHM_PDF_
February 16, 2009. ENGLISH_US_1209368513139.pdf. March 17, 2009.
iii2008 Annual Report. xvii“Inside the H&M Fashion Machine.” Time magazine.
http://www.hm.com/us/abouthm/factsabouthm/fromideatost
v“Inditex and Trent of the Tata Group agree to open stores ore/ideaanddesign__fromideatostoreideaanddesign.nhtml.
in India beginning 2010.” May 5, 2009.
http://www.inditex.com/en/press/press_releases/extend/00
xixhttp://www.hm.com/filearea/corporate/fileobjects/pdf/en/A
000689. February 25, 2009.
NNUAL_REPORT_ARCHIVE2008__ITEM_3_1237462089192.pdf
vi“Michelle Obama Endorses Fast Fashion”
xx“Facts About H&M.”
http://www.blackbookmag.com/article/michelle-obama-
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