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S U M M E R 2010

Retailing
N E W S L ET T E R

PROGRAM SUMMARY

Williamsburg, Virginia, and Melbourne,


Australia, Host Strategic Planning and
Management in Retailing Program
The Strategic Planning and Management in Retailing Program was conducted in
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Williamsburg, Virginia, at the Mason School of Business of The College of William and Mary
1. Williamsburg, Virginia, and in May 2010. In addition, the program was offered in Australia later in the month at the
Melbourne, Australia, Host
Strategic Planning and
Mt. Eliza Executive Education facility of the Melbourne Business School just outside of
Management in Retailing Melbourne. This program is currently offered twice in North America (at Babson and at
Program William and Mary) and once in Australia. The program is next scheduled to be offered
2. Strategic Planning and September 11–17, 2010, at Babson College. Those interested are encouraged to apply
Management in Retailing early. For more information, please visit www.babson.edu/bee/retail or contact Deirdre
Does Cases!
Murphy at dmurphy@babson.edu or at 781-239-4340.
3. Hennes and Mauritz
The programs kicked off with “The Eight Ways to Win in Retailing,” and, with slight differ-
ences from program to program, featured cases on Target Stores, Best Buy and Best Buy in
CO NTACT 2005, Seven Eleven Japan, Starbucks, Home Depot, Zara and Zara in 2007, and Meijer. In
BABSON COLLEGE addition, the faculty delivered lectures and exercises on financial and productivity analysis,
Babson Park, MA strategic thinking and planning, category scorecards, customer relationship management,
02457-0310 USA
customer and associate satisfaction, and supply chain management, including a simulation.
Phone: 1-800-882-EXEC
or +781-239-4354
Fax: +781-239-5266
On Wednesday afternoon at the Williamsburg program, the group participated in a store
E-mail: exec@babson.edu tour with visits to Wal-Mart Supercenter, Target Greatlands, Costco, Lowe’s, World Market,
www.babson.edu/bee/retailing Martin’s, Best Buy, hhgregg, PetSmart, Toys “R” Us, T.J.Maxx, and others. In addition, they
LAWRENCE J. RING, EDITOR were given a guided tour of Colonial Williamsburg, followed by dinner at Shields Tavern in
Chancellor Professor and the restored colonial area.
EMBA Alumni Distinguished
Professor of Executive Education
Australia program participants enjoyed the Mt. Eliza Executive Education Center, set in its
Mason School of Business
The College of William and Mary picturesque waterfront position on the shores of Port Phillip Bay. It is ideally located near
larry.ring@mason.wm.edu

The program is next scheduled to be offered September 11–17, 2010, at Babson


College. Those interested are encouraged to apply early. For more information,
please visit www.babson.edu/bee/retail or contact Deirdre Murphy at
dmurphy@babson.edu or at 781-239-4340.
ST R AT EG I C P L A N N I N G A N D M A N AG E M E N T I N R ETA I L I N G D O E S C A S E S !

the traditional resort areas and the burgeoning wine,


Strategic Planning and
food, and golf district of the Mornington Peninsula.
Management in Retailing
Participants in the programs represented nine countries:
Does Cases!
the United States, Australia, Canada, Colombia,
The Strategic Planning and Management in Retailing
Hungary, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, and
Program faculty always have relied heavily on cases to
Sweden. The group included companies in the drug,
illustrate the models we use in the program and to give
food, furniture, apparel, home improvement, consumer
participants an opportunity to apply them. Cases also
electronics, office supplies, optical, convenience, and
allow us to present examples from many retail sectors.
consulting sectors. The class was composed of senior
Increasingly, we have come to write and produce our own
executives from buying and merchandising, marketing,
case materials for both the open enrollment program and
store operations, strategic planning, human resources,
custom versions of it. Many of these cases may be of
logistics and supply chain, finance and control, and
interest to our readers.
business development. Professors Larry Ring and John
Strong were the primary program faculty for each of the This newsletter features one of our most recent cases:
programs. Professors Ron Hess and Ram Ganeshan Hennes and Mauritz, the rapidly expanding Swedish fast
also participated in the U.S. program. fashion retailer. It is available in soft copy from me at
larry.ring@mason.wm.edu. This case is organized around
the Homans Model and the Pentagon and Triangle. In
addition to the H&M case, we have several other recently
written cases that can be ordered. They include:

1. Lowe’s Stores in 2010, (authored by Larry Ring, Ron Hess,


and Amruta Kanitkar), 2010, 28 pp., W&M-M-170.

2. Target Stores 2006–2009: Fall from Grace or Slight


Misstep? (authored by Ron Hess), 2009, 16 pp.,
W&M-M-169.

3. Starbucks (B): Period of Poor Strategic Decisions,


(authored by Ron Hess), 2009, 4 pp., W&M-M-168.

4. Hennes and Mauritz, (authored by Larry Ring and Rachel


Hutson), 2009, 21 pp., W&M-M-167.

5. Zara in 2007, (authored by Larry Ring and Elizabeth


Galloway), 2008, 21 pp., W&M-M-164.

6. Target Stores in 2006, (authored by Larry Ring, Gregory


Higgins, and Xiaobing Nie), 2007, 30 pp., W&M-M-159.

7. Best Buy 1996–2005, (authored by John S. Strong), 2005,


9 pp., W&M-M-158.

8. The Gap, 1999–2002 (authored by Larry Ring), 2005,


9 pp., W&M-M-156.

9. The Home Depot, 2000–2005 (authored by Larry Ring,


John Strong, and Yelena Shekhovtsova), 2005, 26 pp.,
W&M-M-154.

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 2
HENNES AND MAURITZ

Egypt, Oman, Saudi Arabia, and Bahrain. The company


Hennes and Mauritz
planned to open new stores in Russia, Egypt, and Israel
This case was prepared by Lawrence J. Ring,
during 2009 and 2010. Many investors were apprehensive
Chancellor Professor of Business and EMBA Alumni
of this massive expansion. In the 2008 H&M Annual
Professor, and Rachel Hutson, MBA 2009, as a basis
Report, CEO Rolf Eriksen responded to the current eco-
for class discussion. It is not intended to illustrate
nomic crisis by stating:
either effective or ineffective management.
“Historically, H&M has not been greatly impacted by eco-
Copyright 2009 by the Mason School of Business
nomic downturns, but of course the recession is affecting
Foundation Board
us. In the fourth quarter of the year most of our markets

In 2009, H&M’s business concept was to offer fashion were affected by consumption being more restrained,

and quality at the best price. i The firm specialized in fast although we continued to increase our market shares in

fashion. H&M’s in-house designers were encouraged to increasingly competitive markets. H&M stands strong and

interpret fashion trends, and create new fashions quickly we are focusing on the future. The economic situation is

that were accessible to all through the convenience of creating great opportunities that we are going to take, for

H&M’s many storefronts. The stores’ inventories were example in terms of access to new attractive commercial

revitalized daily to enable the company to keep up with locations and being in a strong position to negotiate. This

the pace of changing fashion trends. Quality was a central year we plan to open a net amount of 225 new stores

issue to H&M. The company had tester stores where new and recruit 6,000 to 7,000 new employees.” iii

products were tested before company-wide distribution


In 2009, H&M’s main competitor, Zara, also was on an
occurred. H&M prided itself on extensive Green and CSR
expansionary path. Zara, one of the companies owned by
policies. In order to keep costs down, all production was
global conglomerate Inditex, was one of the world’s largest
outsourced primarily to Asia and Europe. H&M did not own
international fashion companies. iv Also focusing on fast
any of its stores, but rather leased so it could vacate an
fashion and integrating cutting-edge design with manufac-
undesirable property if it decreased in popularity
turing and distribution, Zara was posed to compete with
over time.
H&M’s expansion goals. In order to compete in an untapped

Throughout the late 1990s and 2000s, H&M expanded H&M market, Inditex signed a joint deal with the Indian

rapidly. The company entered the United States market in conglomerate, Tata, to move Zara stores into India by

2000, and as of 2009 had 169 stores in the United States. 2010. v Globally, Zara and H&M were locked in a race

As of January 31, 2009, H&M had 1,741 stores in 33 to control the fast fashion market in 2009 and beyond.

countries. ii Exhibit 1 outlines where the company was Analysts were not sure who would win. Zara focused its

located as of November 2008. The company’s goal for efforts in major European and global cities, while H&M

the 2009 fiscal year was to expand the number of stores focused on geographic market saturation in fewer countries.

by 10 to 15 percent per year, while increasing sales in Zara designed, produced, and manufactured products in

existing stores. H&M planned to finance all of this Europe, while H&M outsourced all manufacturing to mostly

growth through reinvestment of company funds. Exhibits Asia. Both companies planned to expand in 2009 during

2 and 3 present the H&M income statement and balance an economic crisis. Would this be a good decision? Would

sheet. In 2008, the company opened an additional 216 the companies have to change their strategies? Who would

stores while expanding into new countries such as Japan, win the race for market share?

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EXHIBIT 1: H&M LOCATIONS DATAxxxii

No. Stores New Stores


as of 30 opened Closed 2008 Sales 2007 Sales Avg. No.
Market Year Est. Nov 2008 2008 Stores 2008 (USD m) (USD m) Employees % Male
Sweden 1947 150 29 3 $917 $890 4,924 21%
Norway 1964 85 4 1 $652 $635 1,575 7%
Denmark 1967 69 5 1 $476 $462 1,335 6%
UK 1976 146 20 3 $904 $902 4,275 24%
Switzerland 1978 66 7 1 $601 $518 1,599 12%
Germany 1980 339 25 5 $3,140 $2,729 10,746 19%
Netherlands 1989 96 8 1 $837 $757 2,395 19%
Belgium 1992 55 3 2 $385 $349 1,332 15%
Austria 1994 60 2 $618 $560 1,986 10%
Luxemburg 1996 9 1 $43 $41 134 11%
Finland 1997 36 3 1 $302 $277 840 10%
France 1998 114 16 $984 $859 3,396 25%
USA 2000 169 24 $802 $717 6,820 31%
Spain 2000 99 20 $712 $630 4,528 20%
Poland 2003 53 11 $309 $219 1,956 21%
Czech Republic 2003 16 2 $83 $75 281 6%
Portugal 2003 17 2 $94 $83 606 25%
Italy 2003 46 15 $330 $215 1,052 30%
Canada 2004 43 8 $223 $179 1,011 22%
Slovenia 2004 9 3 $73 $60 129 15%
Ireland 2005 9 2 $60 $51 220 15%
Hungary 2005 8 2 $37 $24 135 12%
Slovakia 2007 3 1 $17 $10 65 38%
Greece 2007 8 5 $37 $17 247 20%
China 2007 13 6 $109 $59 1,109 26%
Japan 2008 2 2 $24 203 33%
Franchise (1) 2006 18 8 $48 $32 N/A N/A
Total 1,738 234 18 $12,818 $11,350 52,899 19%

Fast Fashion Overview designs on an annual basis. Some designs resembled

The concept of fast fashion was pioneered by Zara. Fast the latest couture fashion trends while others were more

fashion’s central concept was to provide customers new classic in style. Fast-fashion retailers typically beat high-

products in limited supply at a constant rate. Customers fashion designers to the market due to their efficient

felt an exclusivity and impulse to buy products in fast- manufacturing and distribution channels. In addition, the

fashion stores because it was not guaranteed that the item products were less expensive because fast-fashion retailers

would remain on the shelves for long or that the company used less expensive fabrics and benefited from economies

would restock the item once it sold out. Fast-fashion of scale. The fast-fashion system depended on the strength

retailers created and distributed tens of thousands of new of the companies’ supply chains and tester stores.
Companies such as H&M and Zara tested small batches

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EXHIBIT 2: H&M INCOME STATEMENTxxxiii EXHIBIT 3: H&M BALANCE SHEETxxxiv


(In Millions USD) 2008 2007 2006 (In Millions USD)
Assets 2008 2007 2006
Sales including VAT 16,100 15,403 3,390
Fixed assets
Sales excluding VAT 13,700 13,099 11,436 Intangible fixed assets
Cost of Goods Sold (5,271) (5,099) (4,637) Brands 69
Customer Relationships 19
Gross Profit 8,429 8,000 6,799
Leasehold rights 102 44 37
Selling Expenses (4,973) (4,629) (4,008) Goodwill 67
Administrative Expenses (332) (297) (233) 256 44 37
Tangible fixed assets
Operating Profit 3,116 3,073 2,558
Buildings and land 74 78 70
Interest Income 164 133 86 Equipment, tools, fixtures, and fittings 1,851 1,475 1,193
Interest Expense (1) (1) (1) 1,925 1,553 1,263
Long-term receivables 74 42 26
Profit after financial items 3,279 3,205 2,643
Deferred tax receivables 201 148 17
Tax (912) (933) (838) Total fixed assets 2,456 1,787 1,343
Profit for the year 2,367 2,272 1,805 Current assets
Stock-in-trade 1,315 1,332 1,207
Full-time equivalent employees (2008) 53,430 Current receivables
Total Store Space (2008) 20.856 mm ft2 Accounts receivable 308 88 145
Other receivables 187 60 42

of new designs in tester stores and if the designs sold out, Prepaid expenses 147 106 94
641 353 280
more products were ordered and put into stores quickly.
Short-term investments 819 1,463
Fast fashion appealed to everyone from celebrities, fash- Liquid funds 3,517 2,686 1,651
ionistas, and bargain shoppers to Michelle Obama on the Total current assets 5,474 5,191 4,602

campaign trail. vi Total assets 7,930 6,978 5,945


Equity and liabilities
History Equity
Share Capital 32 35 35
H&M has had an ever-expanding presence in the retail
Reserves 218 44 4
industry. H&M began when Swedish founder Erling Persson
Retained earnings 3,101 3,015 2,801
visited the United States in 1947. During his trip, he Profit for the year 2,367 2,272 1,805
became interested in a different type of clothing store Total equity 5,718 5,366 4,645

that combined current fashion trends, high inventory Long-term liabilities


Provisions for pensions 35 26 22
turnover, and low prices. When he returned to Sweden,
Deferred tax liabilities 281 109 109
he opened the first Hennes (Swedish for “hers”) retail Other provisions 57
store on September 13, 1947. Persson began expanding 374 135 130
his women’s clothing store chain throughout the 1950s Current liabilities
Accounts payable 566 415 325
and 1960s. In 1968, Persson acquired Mauritz Widforss,
Tax liabilities 198 340 205
a hunting and gun store located in Stockholm, Sweden.
Other liabilities 504 245 261
After the acquisition he combined the new store’s stock Accrued expenses 571 476 380
of men’s clothes with his stock of women’s clothes and 1,838 1,477 1,170

changed the name to Hennes & Mauritz (H&M). vii Total liabilities 2,212 1,612 1,300
Total equity and liabilities 7,930 6,978 5,945

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 5
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Values and Culture first-quarter profits, and posted weak February 2009

H&M was driven by its core values of teamwork, believing results. xi Many analysts believed that this was a sign that

in people, simplicity, salesmanship, fast-pace working, the fashion retailer was negatively impacted by the

cost-consciousness, constant improvements, and entrepre- economic slowdown. Two weeks prior to posting results,

neurship. viii H&M had a strong culture built around its H&M’s Eriksen said “with retail sales across the globe

expansive history and a strong desire to maintain the highest plunging, many retailers face a bleak future. However,

standards of corporate responsibility. In order to foster H&M finds the low retail prices as an advantage in poor

corporate responsibility, H&M compiled a CSR Report economic conditions. I won’t say it [the crisis] will help us,

on an annual basis. The company focused on supplier but we won’t be hurt so much. … We plan to open five

working conditions, sustainable supply chain practices, stores this spring in China, including two in Beijing, and

and cultural awareness. will open one more in the autumn.” xii Two weeks later,
after the first quarter results were posted, an H&M repre-
Eriksen remarked, “H&M for me is a business based on sentative was quoted in saying sales “were affected by
teamwork, humility and respect for people. At the same a continued restrained consumption due to the current
time we are cost-conscious and have a competitive instinct recession.” xiii Analysts believed that the results were worse
that makes us aim for constant improvements. We have than expected due to rising costs, including expenses from
experienced fantastic growth, but we are always heading opening new stores as well as worse-than-expected
toward the next challenge.” ix currency exposure. In February 2009, total sales rose

Environmental Analysis 1 percent from February 2008; however, sales from stores
open for more than a year fell 8 percent signaling an
During the global economic recession of 2009, both H&M
overall real decrease in sales. xiv Many questioned whether
and Zara decided to continue their global expansion. In
H&M should consider slowing down its expansive growth.
March 2009, The Wall Street Journal reported that Zara
However, H&M remained upbeat and stated that it
posted strong sales gains that illustrated how low prices
“remains positive toward future expansion and the
and rapid response to fashion trends enabled it to
company’s business opportunities.” xv
compete with Gap Inc. for highest global specialty apparel
retail sales. In contrast, Gap reported a drop in sales for H&M Strategy
2008. Exhibit 4 compares total sales, profit, and margin In 2009, H&M employed a combination of strategies in
for the three leading global clothing retailers Gap, H&M, order to be one of the world’s leading clothing retailers
and Zara. As Exhibit 4 illustrates, H&M and Zara saw by sales. H&M’s collections were created by in-house
increasing sales from 2004 to 2007 while prior to the designers whose primary goal was to offer its customers
recession Gap began to see flattening to decreasing sales. the latest fashion trends at the best price. H&M’s strategy
During the recession, it seemed that retailers who special- depended on keeping its prices low so that it could pass
ized in low prices and efficient supply chains fared best. on its cost savings to the end customer. In order to keep
In March 2009, Lars Olofsson, chief executive officer of prices low, H&M limited the number of middlemen in its
Carrefour, mentioned that “Ikea, Lidl, Wal-Mart, Tesco, supply chain, bought in large volumes, outsourced its
Zara, H&M—they have for the last 20, 30 years hammered manufacturing to low-cost areas of the world, had a
on the same nail every time.” x culture of cost-consciousness at all levels, and maintained
an efficient distribution system.
In contrast to Zara, H&M seemed to be struggling in
March 2009. H&M reported a 12 percent drop in 2009

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 6
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EXHIBIT 4: COMPANY COMPARISON – SALES, NET INCOME, PROFIT MARGIN xli

H&M 2008 H&M 2007 H&M 2006 Inditex 2008 Inditex 2007 Inditex 2006 GAP 2008 GAP 2007 GAP 2006

Sales $13,700 $13,099 $11,436 $13,946 $12,800 $10,527 $14,526 $15,763 $15,923

GM% 61.5% 61.1% 59.5% 56.7% 56.2% 56.2% 37.5% 36.1% 35.5%

GM$ $8,429 $8,000 $6,799 $7,906 $7,195 $5,915 $5,447 $5,692 $5,657

Net Income $2,367 $2,272 $1,805 $1,848 $1,564 $1,254 $967 $833 $778

Pentagon Activities: Place Store Size, Layout and Design, and Sales Channels

Location
In 2009, H&M used three complementary sales channels:

The availability of attractive business locations was a stores, Internet, and catalogs. H&M believed that its most

significant determining factor when it came to where H&M important channel was its stores.

decided to expand. H&M analyzed population structure,


While in the stores, the customers could touch, see, and
economic growth, purchasing power, infrastructure, and
try on H&M’s latest designs. H&M prided itself on its elab-
political risk. H&M believed that being in the best place
orate display windows that showcased the merchandise
was critical to success. The company leased its store space
and drew customers into the stores. Its goal was to place
so that if a location did not turn out to be what it thought it
H&M stores in the best shopping districts in each city,
would be, it could relocate to a better location. It believed
whether the best location was a store on the main
that a store could easily be moved elsewhere if a city’s
shopping street or a shopping mall. The company prided
top location changed over time.
itself in having stores on Fifth Avenue in New York, Corso

Location was so important to H&M that it claimed it would Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, Regent Street in London, and

rather wait until the right storefront was available instead Queen’s Road in Hong Kong. Recently, the group was

of accepting a second choice. H&M focused its analysis on raising the standard of its stores and developing new con-

the local customer base, competition within the area, and cepts for store interiors. Its flagship stores were increas-

customer traffic flow. It also looked at the possibility of ingly inspirational design experience for its customers.

targeting different stores to different customer bases.


H&M used a variety of different types and sizes of stores
Some locations were more attractive to teenagers while
depending on the location. It had large stores that offered
other locations were more attractive to families. H&M
a full range of merchandise to smaller concept stores that
believed that choosing the right combination of location
offered a limited line of merchandise. The store size varied
factors to suit the market was the best strategy.
from 2,000 square feet to more than 30,000 square

In addition to looking at a wide variety of location factors, feet. xvi Sources estimated that H&M achieved more than

H&M believed that controlled growth while maintaining $600 of sales per square foot of gross leasable space.

profitability was a central strategic issue. From 2002 to


Nordic H&M customers had been able to shop from home
2007, H&M expanded rapidly; all of this expansion was
for more than 25 years. Initially shopping from home was
internally financed.
done through H&M catalogs, but, starting in 1998, H&M
offered Internet shopping as well. In 2006, H&M expanded
the shopping from home option to non-Nordic customers.

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Although Internet sales were increasing more than catalog had a good chance of it being available the next day. This
sales, H&M executives believed that catalogs remained an created the sense of the need to go to the H&M store on
important part of its sales strategy. The company pub- a regular basis to find the best deals. One loyal customer
lished four catalogs per year: two for fall and two for stated that “I’m an H&M bulimic. … You have to dig, sort,
spring. Each catalog had a different theme and highlighted and slave for a bargain. I wear light clothes to go shopping
seasonal changes and fashion trends. Catalogs were sent there because otherwise you’re so hot you’d lose 50 kilos.”xvii
out at the beginning of each season and created interest
Designs
in the new collection. Most merchandise offered in the
catalogs also was available in stores. The catalogs gave the H&M worked to create a balance between fashion, quality,
customers an overview of the entire season’s collection and low price. H&M had a culture of teamwork in which
as well as fashion tips and ideas for the coming season. the designers, pattern makers, and buyers created the
Catalogs offered a way for H&M to stay personally collections together. Designers monitored the world, and
connected to its customer base. drew inspiration from street and runway fashion, films,
and history. Designs and styles were centered on a unique
Product
combination of trendy, fashionable pieces as well as basic
Merchandise Intensity and Assortment classic pieces. The overall theme and most pieces for
a collection were planned up to a year in advance while
H&M was known to operate its stores at a very high level
H&M’s trendiest clothing was picked up on short notice. xviii
of merchandise intensity, particularly as related to arch
competitor, Zara. The company also carried relatively Each H&M collection was planned, designed, and created
broad assortments. At any given time, H&M was working at the H&M headquarters in Stockholm by more than 100
on several trend directions at once. According to company staff designers and many guest designers. H&M believed
sources, one trend is always tailored, one sporty, one that understanding what customers wanted was paramount
ethnic, one romantic, and one futuristic. Each trend could to its success. It created the “Idea to Store” concept, in
be found in every department—women, men, young, and which the desires of the end customer were the key
children. H&M prided itself on its constantly changing focus throughout the entire design process. The designers
range of products. The H&M design team also focused on offered different concepts for different customers. H&M
what was popular during the previous season and where. served men, women, and children of all ages who had
Customer demand in different markets and stores deter- different fashion preferences. The designers adapted

mined the merchandise assortment for an area of the global influences and trends to styles and clothing cuts

world, or store in general. The size and location of a store that fit the diverse needs of its customers. Colors, quality,

factored into what merchandise would be shipped to that themes, silhouettes, and certain types of garments

store. High fashion, limited quantity garments were combined together to create each season’s collection.

typically distributed to larger stores in big cities while basic


Value
items that generally reflected the style of the season were
Price
shipped to many different stores.
H&M believed it achieved the “best price” by having
H&M stores were known for being packed full of pieces of
few middlemen, buying in large volumes, purchasing the
the latest fashion. Most major stores were restocked daily.
right product from the right market, being cost-conscious
H&M fans knew that the store displayed two of every size
in every part of the organization and having efficient
each day. If a size was not available, then the customer
distribution processes.

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Quality cash register, the stockroom, the fitting room, merchandise


presentation, and promotions, employees were given the
“There’s no contradiction in H&M’s business concept of
opportunity to learn about the entire sales process. Job
offering fashion and quality at the best price,” says Tomas
rotations encouraged recruitment from within. In order to
Persson, H&M director of quality control. “It’s an equation
ensure consistent service levels, H&M trained employees of
that has to add up. Quality is extremely important. The
new stores in new countries by sending the management
customers have to get value for their money. For the
teams to train with established H&M stores. Nevertheless,
customer to feel satisfied with a product, it not only has
service in most H&M stores could be described as
to be fashionable, it has to be durable and work the way
essentially “self-service.”
it’s supposed to. It should be safe and stand up to fairly
rough use.” Persson and his colleagues put together the Eriksen commented, “At H&M we share the same goals at
guidelines and standards manufacturers have to follow. the same time as we minimize bureaucracy and focus on
At every production office, there are quality teams that the individual. We delegate a lot of responsibility to local
monitor compliance. The guidelines exist to ensure that markets, stores, and individual people—and we encourage
all H&M products live up to the toughest standards. people to take their own initiatives at all levels.” xxiii

“Quality work is a living process that is constantly devel- The H&M Annual Report featured comments by several
oping. The goal is to make our products durable, easy to sales associates and store managers regarding their jobs: xxiv
use, practical, and safe.” xix
First Associate. How did you first come in contact with
People H&M? “Through H&M’s website. I had been looking at the
H&M believed that its employees were its most valuable website ever since I heard H&M was coming to Japan.” Why
asset. In fiscal year 2007, H&M employed approximately did you apply for a job here? “H&M believes in people, and
68,000 employees. The average number translated into after I heard about H&M’s values, I was very interested in
full-time jobs was 47,029. xx Exhibit 1 lists H&M’s markets working here.” How did you learn to do your job? “We spent

as of 2008 and each market’s number of employees and five days in a classroom in Tokyo learning about H&M’s

gender. Worldwide, 80 percent of H&M employees were history, values, clothing presentation, and much more.”

women; among employees with a position of responsi- What’s the best thing about working at H&M? “Teamwork,

bility, 76 percent were women. xxi H&M’s employment I would have to say. I respect all of my colleagues, and

concept included growing with the company, career my supervisor is fantastic.”

development through a variety of ways, internal recruit-


Second Associate. How did you first come in contact
ment, and improving through partnerships.
with H&M? “I grew up with H&M. It was always my first

H&M believed that the opportunity for personal growth choice.” Why do you want to work with fashion? “Because it’s
a fantastic way of expressing your personality.” What do
created an attractive workplace. It believed that each
you expect from your job? “I hope I can put my creativity
employee had the ability to use common sense, assume
in the service of my colleagues and gain new ideas from
responsibility, and assume individual initiatives. These
them and the customers. I would like to see everybody
three qualities created the “H&M Spirit.” xxii H&M encour-
leave the store with a smile on their face.” How did you
aged continued education and offered courses with an
learn to do your job? “The introduction was intense—there
emphasis on skill development.
was really a lot to learn! Everybody on the team helped
The company developed its employees’ careers through out and provided support and people told me they
job rotations. By rotating through customer service, the appreciated my ideas.”

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 9
HENNES AND MAURITZ

Third Associate. What are you expecting of your job? on the shelves and in the display areas. Finally, I check
“A wonderful team that makes it fun to work. It’s exciting to to make sure the signage is inviting and inspiring. At
meet so many different kinds of customers, too. And then lunchtime, we meet again to discuss the priorities for the
there are the development opportunities for me and the afternoon. After that, we continue to focus on customers
team.” How did you learn to do your job? “I felt welcome, and sales.” What is special about the store where you
even though there was a lot to learn; I could always count work? “Our fantastic team. Even though there are a lot of
on help from my colleagues. During the first few weeks, us, it feels like a big family, and that’s what makes work
there was one colleague in particular who helped me with fun.” What’s the best thing about working at H&M? “Every
everything.” What’s the best thing about working at H&M? day is a new challenge, so it’s never boring, and there are
“The team and the many opportunities to develop and many opportunities to develop and take on new responsi-
take on new challenges. It is really fun to try new things bilities.” How do you inspire your colleagues? “By working
and meet so many different kinds of people every day.” with the team and maintaining open communications, and
by taking part and providing support.”
First Manager. What is a typical day at work like for you?
“The day begins with deliveries. Then, I review the goals Communications and Brand
for the day for every department with all the floor managers.
H&M believed that part of its competitive advantage was
After that, I spend most of the day out in the store,
its strong brand. It promoted its brand through stores,
because I believe in symbolic leadership, but also in order
magazines, catalogs, public relations (PR) activities, events,
to meet our customers.” What is special about the store
designer collaborations, collections, and fashion shows.
where you work? “We have a fantastic atmosphere, are
The company maintained its brand through making fashion
very structured and professional yet have a lot of fun. The
available for everyone, icon and designer collaborations,
employees are very committed.” What’s the best thing
and using the same message worldwide. The company’s
about working at H&M? “The people and the possibilities.
underlining goal was to have each activity promote its
H&M is a workplace where you can achieve your full
brand and concept of “fashion and quality at the
potential.” How do you inspire your colleagues’ enthu-
best price.”
siasm? “By being a good example. I love working at H&M,
and I’m passionately dedicated to my work. I believe that Store openings were paramount to promoting the H&M
makes me a role model. I also try to inspire the team to brand throughout the world. For example, in April 2009,
be creative, take responsibility and develop.” What is the H&M launched its first store in Beijing, China. The brand
biggest challenge for a store manager? “Keeping a cool new store was located in a newly developed shopping
head amidst everything that’s happening. I have to main- area in the center of the cultural capital. To celebrate the
tain a consistent, professional attitude toward employees opening, H&M planned an elaborate event that entailed
and customers even if I’m having a bad day.” the gathering of Beijing’s celebrities, fashion crowd, and
media. The first experience of the H&M store left a strong
Second Manager. What is a typical day at work like for
impression among the guests, who dressed their personal-
you? “We start the day with a review of our turnover and
ities in H&M’s various party styles to glamorize the
other sales figures. After that, I have brief conversations
event. xxv By making fashion available to everyone, H&M
with all the assistant managers. I feel it’s important to stay
became the store for the everyday fashion-conscious
in close contact with my colleagues and I make time to do
consumer. New merchandise arrived daily at each store.
so. I have a look at the store floor and displays; they have
Flashy, fun marketing campaigns were launched frequently.
to look neat and tidy, and there has to be enough clothing

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 10
HENNES AND MAURITZ

The store and its window displays were H&M’s most Africa to mediate contact between the internal buying
important channel of communication with customers, department and the independent suppliers. These offices
and the right design was particularly important. Every two also identified new suppliers and negotiated contracts
or three years, H&M created a brand new interior design with them.
program for a large number of stores based on one new,
Purchasing flexibility was central to the Hennes & Mauritz
special store in an interesting market. “Simple, smart, and
strategy. The pattern of seasonal flexibility that applies
sustainable” were the keywords for the latest store design
to many retail fashion stores was changed at H&M in
update, which was to be rolled out in 2009. xxvi
the 1960s. Instead, buyers started to purchase 12 times
H&M also collaborated with celebrities and iconic a year, making rapid switches of fashion possible. In their
designers to strengthen its brand position. In spring 2009, cultural perception, management perceived the company
H&M collaborated with designer Matthew Williamson. as being very informal in terms of decision-making
Williamson debuted his exclusive H&M collection at the processes. The director of development said,
first Beijing store opening in April of that year. His collec- “We know from previous experience that decision making
tion included iconic pieces from his past collections com- is based 90 percent on feeling and 10 percent on history.”
bined with new trendy, colorful pieces. This line was Nevertheless, company tactics were extremely visible to
available exclusively at H&M stores worldwide. One of employees. The first CEO introduced “takten” (the pace),
H&M’s most popular celebrity campaigns was in spring an instrument that still remains in place and now sup-
2007 when it partnered with style icon and mega super- ported by information and communications technology
star Madonna to promote its line of clothing. By partnering (ICT). This was a visible list that arrived weekly; showing
with celebrities and designers, H&M added legitimacy to each buyer how much has been sold in the stores of each
its concept and message of fashionable clothing for all. particular product. Everyone understood the risks involved
in falling short, and, according to several sources, the
Triangle Activities
saying “shape up or ship out” was always present in
Operations
the background.

H&M outsourced the majority of its manufacturing to com-


Supplier lead times varied from a few weeks to six
panies primarily in Asia and Eastern Europe. In 2009, H&M
months. Optimal lead times varied as well. Fast-fashion
did not own a factory. The company bought its products
garments had the shortest lead time and smallest volume
from 700 independent suppliers throughout the world. xxvii
while high-volume fashion basics and children’s clothing
H&M prided itself on its corporate social responsibility
had longer lead times. In its case, H&M could go from
(CSR) and tasked its purchasing department with verifying
design concept to hanger in the store in 20 days—nearly
that each supplier lived up to H&M’s CSR requirements.
as good as Zara—and probably 30 percent less expensive.

The purchasing department used six factors to determine Gap’s minimum turnaround was three months.

whether to do business with that supplier. Quality, price,


All stores needed to have the most crucial goods on stock
capacity, lead time, flexibility, and living up to H&M’s CSR
at all times. Furthermore, the central logistics department
requirements were the determining factors when choosing
needed to follow the sales progress of individual goods in
a supplier. The production of all supplier products had to
order to avoid overproduction of goods which could not
take place under satisfactory conditions. H&M maintained
be sold. In order to do this, the procurement staff worked
more than 20 production offices in Europe, Asia, and

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 11
HENNES AND MAURITZ

closely with the production offices, and ICT was a crucial shipment. It used a combination of factors including time
tool used to follow sales and make intelligent choices. and environmental impact. It preferred to ship products
A benefit of owning the stores was that they shared a by train. It preferred to ship efficiently with high utilization
common ICT platform where all sales were reported. Thus, rates and ship directly to the sales country. After the
the procurement and logistics employees could keep track merchandise was received and checked it was either
of sales and stock status (at individual stores as well as at distributed directly to the store or to a central restocking
the central warehouse). warehouse. Store shelves were replenished based on
individual item and store demand.
From idea to store, H&M controlled every link in its supply
chain. Most of its products were shipped by boat. The The individual stores did not have backup stocks; they
company used trains, trucks, and planes to transport were replenished as required from central stockrooms.
products. This flexibility resulted in a more efficient system As soon as a product was sold a request was sent for
than those of its individual suppliers. The company also replenishment. Every day, the H&M stores received
used an information technology (IT) system to record and new goods.
produce rapid feedback about the popularity of certain
The most significant triangle challenges for Hennes &
items and individual store results on a daily basis. This
Mauritz were thought to be (1) continuous expansion;
system helped the purchasing and distribution teams
(2) cost-efficient production and logistics; and
know what items needed to be shipped where.
(3) reduction of lead times.
Once the goods were manufactured, they were shipped
Competition
using H&M external contract companies, generally to the
Gap Inc.
company’s central warehouse in Hamburg. However,
shipping also could be to the national offices (if the Gap historically was a strong competitor in the fashion
goods were country specific), or directly to the store if industry. Exhibit 5 illustrates Gap Inc.’s annual sales from
the quantities were large enough. This transaction model 1999–2008. As the chart shows, Gap maxed out its
is depicted in the diagram (Figure 1). xxviii H&M chose annual revenue at approximately $16.3 million in sales
the most appropriate transportation method for each per year in 2004. In 2007, Gap had 3,100 stores in six

Figure 1: H&M Transaction Model xxix

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 12
HENNES AND MAURITZ

countries. The retailer had seen little store growth in five


EXHIBIT 5: HISTORICAL GAP DATAxxxvii
years. In 2008, H&M had $13.8 million in sales (excluding
valued added tax) and planned to open at least 225 Gap Inc. Revenue 1999–2008
17,000
stores in 2009. Many analysts believed that H&M was
16,000
on the same expansionary path that Gap was on in the
15,000
late 1990s. 14,000

13,000
Analysts believed that Gap’s demise was due to the fact 12,000

that it lost sight of its target customer. Instead of following 11,000

10,000
the trend toward fast fashion and best price, Gap con-
1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008
tinued to offer basic pieces at higher price levels. Even its
other stores, such as Old Navy and Banana Republic, were pany relied on ever-evolving fashion trends to increase

scrutinized for forgetting their respective target markets. inventory turnover throughout the stores. Zara was known

Gap’s loss of customers resulted in major financial implica- for ordering small batches of items that would not be

tions for the company. As Exhibits 4 and 6 indicate, reordered once sold out. This practice created a sense of

Gap was the world leader in annual sales in 2008; how- urgency for customers to visit Zara stores frequently and

ever, both its profit margin and net income were lower buy immediately. This was one of Zara’s strongest, most

than Inditex and H&M’s. In addition, Gap’s productivity was important competitive advantages. (See Exhibits 10 and

significantly lower than H&M and Inditex, and had dropped 11 for Inditex’s Income Statement and Balance Sheet.)

significantly during the decade as shown in Exhibit 7.


Looking Ahead
Some past Gap consumers were lured away from the retail
In 2009, Zara and H&M were locked in a tight race to
giant by H&M and Zara’s trendy, fashionable clothing at
become the top fast-fashion retailer in the world. Each
lower prices. (See Exhibits 8 and 9 for Gap Inc.’s Income
company believed that if it could saturate the fast-fashion
Statement and Balance Sheet.)
market it would beat Gap Inc. in global retail sales. Gap
Zara had grown rapidly in the late 1990s but began to falter
in early 2000s. Company sales had peaked at around
Zara, owned by retail conglomerate Inditex, was H&M’s
$17 billion in annual sales and begun to decline. Many
primary competitor. Zara was Inditex’s original concept
analysts believed that H&M and Zara needed to slow down
store. It was famous for its concept of idea to in the stores
their expansion plans and refocus on their core competences.
in two weeks. Zara boasted that it was able to generate a
new clothing idea, design, manufacture, and ship the idea First-quarter sales results in 2009 revealed that Zara was
to its stores within two weeks. This two-week lead time doing well through the global economic recession while
created a strong competitive advantage for the company. H&M and Gap Inc. were not. Would Zara be able to con-
tinue to increase sales faster than H&M? Would H&M’s
Zara was known for its open communication with con-
slower lead time end up being its Achilles’ heel? Would
sumers, innovative ideas and inventory policies, and
expansion during a recession be considered a stroke of
equipping its stores with IT systems that enabled man-
genius or a financial blow to H&M? Who would win the
agers to report emerging trends to headquarters. These
race to become the top global specialty apparel retailer?
strong lines of communication allowed Zara to claim that it
was “in step with society.” xxx It became a popular shopping H&M’s Eriksen was concerned that “When we expand into
destination for the fashion-conscious consumer. The com- new markets it’s important that we do not lose sight of

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 13
HENNES AND MAURITZ

EXHIBIT 6: COMPANY COMPARISON – RETURN ON NET WORTHxl

COMPANY ROS ATO ROA LEV RONW


Strategic Profit Models for
H&M 2008 17.28% 1.73 29.86% 1.39 41.41%
Selected Retailers by L. J. Ring
H&M 2007 17.34% 1.88 32.56% 1.30 42.34%

H&M 2006 15.78% 1.92 30.36% 1.28 38.86%

Inditex 2008 13.25% 1.33 17.59% 1.68 29.64%

Inditex 2007 12.22% 1.43 17.44% 1.65 28.86%

Inditex 2006 11.91% 1.30 15.43% 1.78 27.49%

Gap 2008 6.66% 1.92 12.78% 1.72 22.04%

Gap 2007 5.28% 2.01 10.63% 1.83 19.49%

Gap 2006 4.89% 1.86 9.11% 1.65 15.04%

EXHIBIT 7: STRATEGIC RESOURCE MODEL FOR 2000 VERSUS 2008xlii

H&M 2008 H&M 2000 Inditex 2008 Inditex 2000 GAP 2008 GAP 2000
Derived by casewriter from
Gross Margin 61.5% 50.6% 56.7% 50.5% 37.1% 37.5%
case exhibits
SI Index 10.43 6.84 9.37 10.67 9.65 7.18

GMROI 6.41 3.46 5.31 5.39 3.62 2.66

Merch Intensity $63 $70 $63 $39 $38 $61

Sales/Ft2 $657 $482 $591 $419 $368 $435

GMROF $404 $243 $335 $212 $138 $162

Service Intensity 390 302 384 317 590 263

Sales/FTE $256,000 $145,000 $227,000 $133,000 $217,000 $114,000

GMROL $157,000 $73,000 $129,000 $67,000 $81,000 $42,000

EXHIBIT 8: GAP INCOME STATEMENTxxxviii

(In Millions USD)


except for per share items FY 08 FY 07 FY 06 FY 05
Full-time equivalent employees (2008) 67,000
Total Revenue 14,526 15,763 15,923 16,019 Total store space (2008) 39.5 mm ft2

Cost of Revenue, Total 9,079 10,071 10,266 10,145 “Gap (GPS)”. www.google.com/finance

Gross Profit 5,447 5,692 5,657 5,874

Total Operating Expense 12,942 14,357 14,608 14,196

Operating Income 1,584 1,406 1,315 1,823

Income Before Tax 1,584 1,406 1,315 1,823

Income After Tax 967 867 809 1,131

Net Income Before Extra Items 967 867 809 1,131

Net Income 967 833 778 1,113

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 14
HENNES AND MAURITZ

our core values.” He concluded, “We also EXHIBIT 9: GAP BALANCE SHEETxxxix

need to manage all of the components that (In Millions USD)


except for per share items FY 08 FY 07 FY 06 FY 05
H&M consists of in an effective way and
Cash and Equivalents 1,715 1,724 2,030 2,035
ensure that our core values are upheld in all
Short-Term Investments 0 177 570 952
parts of our organization regardless of country
Cash and Short-Term Investments 1,715 1,901 2,600 2,987
or cultural differences. 2009 will be an
Accounts Receivable – Trade, Net - - - -
exciting and intense year with new stores,
Receivables – Other - - - -
new markets, and new products for our cus-
Total Receivables, Net - - - -
tomers, and above all, new opportunities.” xxxi
Total Inventory 1,506 1,575 1,796 1,696

Prepaid Expenses - - - -

Other Current Assets, Total 784 610 633 556

Total Current Assets 4,005 4,086 5,029 5,239

Property/Plant/Equipment, Total – Gross - 7,320 7,135 6,958

Goodwill, Net - - - -

Intangibles, Net - - - -

Long-Term Investments - - - -

Other Long-Term Assets, Total 626 485 318 336

Total Assets 7,564 7,838 8,544 8,821

Accounts Payable 975 1,006 772 1,132

Accrued Expenses 1,076 1,259 1,159 725

Notes Payable/Short-Term Debt - 0 0 0

Current Port of LT Debt/Capital Leases 50 138 325 0

Other Current Liabilities, Total 57 30 16 85

Total Current Liabilities 2,158 2,433 2,272 1,942

Long-Term Debt 0 50 188 513

Capital Lease Obligations - - - -

Total Long-Term Debt 0 50 188 513

Total Debt 50 88 513 513

Deferred Income Tax - - - -

Minority Interest - - - -

Other Liabilities, Total 1,019 1,081 910 941

Total Liabilities 3,177 3,564 3,370 3,396

Redeemable Preferred Stock, Total - - - -

Preferred Stock – Non Redeemable, Net - - - -

Common Stock, Total - 55 55 54

Additional Paid-In Capital - 2,783 2,631 2,402

Retained Earnings (Accumulated Deficit) - 9,223 8,646 8,133

Treasury Stock – Common - -7,912 -6,235 -5,210

Other Equity – Total 4,387 125 77 46

Total Equity 4,387 4,274 5,174 5,425

Total Liabilities and Shareholders’ Equity 7,564 7,838 8,544 8,821

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 15
HENNES AND MAURITZ

EXHIBIT 10: INDITEX INCOME STATEMENTxxxv EXHIBIT 11: INDITEX BALANCE SHEETxxxvi
(In Millions USD) 2007 2006 2005 (In Millions USD) 1/31/2008 1/31/2007 1/31/2006
Assets
Net sales 13,946 12,800 10,527
Current Assets 4,407 3,355 3,196
Cost of merchandise (6,040) (5,605) (4,612)
Cash and cash equivalents 2,167 1,415 1,544
Gross profit 7,906 7,195 5,915
Receivables 685 568 511
Operating expenses (4,769) (4,373) (3,587)
Inventories 1,489 1,287 1,069
Other net operating expenses
and income (39) (27) (49) Income tax receivable 3 33 48

EBITDA 3,176 2,795 2,279 Other current assets 64 53 25

Amortization and depreciation (734) (677) (571) Noncurrent assets 6,096 5,612 4,929
EBIT 2,442 2,118 1,708 Property, plant, and equipment 4,704 4,355 3,764
Financial results 1 (22) 13
Investment property 14 19 22
Equity accounting losses (11) (4) (0)
Rights over leased assets 746 709 641
Income before taxes 2,433 2,092 1,720
Other intangible assets 20 24 14
Income tax (573) (515) (454)
Goodwill 186 155 124
Net income 1,859 1,577 1,266
Financial investments 53 52 95
Minorities 11 13 12
Investments in associates – 7 11
Net income attributable
to the parent 1,848 1,564 1,254 Deferred tax assets 197 139 121

Other 177 153 136


Full-time equivalent employees (2008) 61,487
Total store space (2008) 23.590 mm ft2 Total assets 10,503 8,968 8,125

Liabilities – – –
Inditex 2007 Annual Report
Current liabilities 3,634 2,943 2,890

Trade and other payables 2,920 2,528 2,357

Financial debt 549 227 327

Income tax payable 165 189 206

Noncurrent liabilities 636 604 673

Financial debt 63 74 119

Deferred tax liabilities 164 163 167

Provisions 70 70 66

Other noncurrent liabilities 339 297 322

Net equity 6,234 5,420 4,562

Net equity attributable to the parent 6,198 5,385 4,527

Net equity attributable


to minority interest 35 35 34

Total Liabilities and Equity 10,503 8,968 8,125

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 16
HENNES AND MAURITZ

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http://www.hm.com/filearea/corporate/fileobjects/pdf/en/
ANNUAL_REPORT_ARCHIVE2008__ITEM_3_1237462089192.pdf.
March 23, 2009.

xxxivH&M 2008 Annual Report.

http://www.hm.com/filearea/corporate/fileobjects/pdf/en/
ANNUAL_REPORT_ARCHIVE2008__ITEM_3_1237462089192.pdf.
March 23, 2009.

xxxvInditex 2007 Annual Report

xxxviInditex 2007 Annual Report

xxxviiGap Inc. – 10 Year Summary.

http://moneycentral.msn.com/investor/invsub/results/statem
nt.aspx?Symbol=gps&lstStatement=10YearSummary&stmtVie
w=Ann. April 27, 2009.

xxxviii“Gap (GPS).” www.google.com/finance

xxxix“Gap (GPS).” www.google.com/finance

xlStrategic Profit Models for Selected Retailers by L. J. Ring

xliDerived by casewriter from case exhibits

xliiDerived by casewriter from case exhibits

B A B S O N E X E C U T I V E E D U C AT I O N R E TA I L I N G N E W S L E T T E R 18
GO G LO B A L O R GO H O M E ?

PROGRAM DATES

Babson College, September 11–17, 2010

William and Mary, April 30–May 6, 2011

Mt. Eliza/Melbourne Business School, May 22–27, 2011

CONTACT

Babson College Lawrence J. Ring, Editor


Babson Park, MA Chancellor Professor and
02457-0310 USA EMBA Alumni Distinguished Professor
Phone: 1-800-882-EXEC of Executive Education
or +781-239-4354 Mason School of Business
Fax: +781-239-5266 The College of William and Mary
E-mail: exec@babson.edu larry.ring@mason.wm.edu
www.babson.edu/bee
Eddie Tritton
Director, Melbourne
Mt. Eliza Executive Education
Melbourne Business School
e.tritton@mbs.edu

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