Travel Times :: 7th Edition (Lumbini Special)

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VOL. 2 | ISSUE 7 yourtravelcompanion
lumbini
b u d d h a ’ s a b o d e
Far from urban hustle bustle, Lumbini - the birthplace of
Lord Buddha has an aura that soothes every soul. With
plenty to see and plenty to do, Lumbini is a great getaway.
an hour with
snow The religious city of
yOGENDRA boarding bagan
SHAKYA
on Personality Review on Adventure Intro on Global Treasure
54 68 74
10 | editorial www.eticketnepal.com
Editorial
Dear Readers, In line with the theme are regular contribu-
tor Prasanna Pandey’s philosophical piece
It’s great to get out of the house after a on Thangka paintings, a costly, yet perfect
week of stifling shut downs. The peace souvenir to take back home and first time
rally at the end of the week sent out a great contributor Swoyam Joshi about Buddha
message demanding peace and harmony Jayanti – a celebration of the day that Bud-
amongst all political players. And it seems dha was born.
to have worked, for the time being at least.
What a coincidence then that this is also We talk to Richard Ragan, Country Repre-
the month that commemorates the birth of sentative for WFP about the side of him that
the Buddha, an ex-prince turned universal likes to jump off cliffs and improvise down
Publisher: Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd.
ambassador for peace as well as the month the steepest slops of the country. Snow-
Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal that was supposed to herald a new begin- boarding is in Nepal and it’s not long before
P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal
DAO Lalitpur Regd No : 63/065/66 ning for Nepal with the writing of a new we take to the slopes too! Also in this is-
Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290 constitution. The latter didn’t happen but sue is a special interview with hospitality
Fax: +977 1 553 6733
E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com we can only hope for the best. sector veteran and Nepal Tourism Year 2011
URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com coordinator Yogendra Shakya on the tough-
editorial team
Lumbini, where we spent a very warm est role he might ever take. Read on for a
Chairman Deepak Bhatta week to bring to you the readers this spe- little peak into his personal life too.
Editor aasha Ram Tandukar cial Lumbini issue, is quite the getaway,
Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar in more ways than one. The birthplace of We had an interesting time coming up the
Creative Head Mahesh Tandukar
the Buddha, through the slow but steady issue. We hope you have one going through
Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri
Asst. Marketing Manager vishal j. rana
implementation of the Lumbini Master Plan, it. Keep traveling.
Copy Editor Utsav Shakya has turned the ancient gardens into one
Inhouse Writer Prita Malla that represents the various ways in which
Content Development Officer gaurav kandel Buddhism has branched out into the world. The Editorial Team
Photographer Suresh Maharjan
Read on about how to make the most of a Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions at
Advisors week in Lumbini and what not to miss out. feedback@traveltimes-mag.com
A. Das gupta
Sushil Bhatta
Upendra Hirawat
Abhishek Anand
Deepak Jain
Ramon Shrestha
Partners
Contributors
China Southern Airlines Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical Sradda Thapa is 24 who
Gorkha Travels doctor and clinical pharmacologist likes to eat, talk to witty
Craft Garden people and walk around
at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur.
Dakshinkali Hill Resort
nextyatra.com He has traveled widely throughout Kathmandu. Currently a
eticketnepal.com Nepal and has been involved in student at the Nepa School
research about staying well at of Social Science she hopes
Color Separation: CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd to do something meaningful
Hattiban, 5250466, 5250468
altitude. He is keenly interested
in rational use of medicines with her life, but has no idea
Printing: Jagadamba Press, Hattiban, 5250017 Ravi Shanker Sradda Thapa
and in empowering common what that would be right
distribution: R. B. Newspapers - traders now. Also, she likes cobble
people about health, illness and
Travel Times is published by Travel Times Media Pvt. medicines. stoned streets.
Ltd. All rights reserved in respect of articles, illustrations,
photographs, etc. published in Travel Times magazine.
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in
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TIMES MAY - JUN 2010

Contents
Contents
12 |
Lumbini
on COVER STORY
Far from urban hustle bustle, Lumbini - the birthplace of the Buddha
has an aura that soothes every soul.With plenty to see and plenty to do,
Lumbini is a great getaway.
Everest base camp

www.eticketnepal.com
...on garlic soups, winding trails and anxiety attacks...

on TRAVELOGUE
Beyond the coffee shops and internet cafes at the
highest altitude in the world is the mother of all trekking
destinations – not just for its views but also for level of
difficulty. highest mountains on Earth.
20
Savour the flavour of russia
on FOODRINK
If all you know of Russian cuisine is
Russian vodka, you’ve been lagging behind.
Russian food is a wholesome delight with
28 something for everyone.

62
Bagan an hour with
on Global Yogendra Shakya

Treasure on personality review
A city that dates back to A veteran of the hospitality industry, Yogendra
Shakya has perhaps met a fitting challenge –
the 2nd century, Bagan is
coordinating the Nepal Tourism Year 2011 and
arguably the best in art and
architectural heritage that
Myanmar offers.
its many aspects.
54
74 90
68 snow
buddha THANGKAS boarding
jayanti on Perfect takeaways in ADVENTURE INTRO
Brand new in Nepal but raking
We see them hanging pretty
on festival watch
on every other souvenir store in interest all over the world, the
A The day the Buddha was
in Thamel. But this Buddhist bastard child of skiing comes howling
born symbolizes the beginning
art form requires awe inspiring down Nepali slopes.
of a new era and is celebrated
dedication and discipline.
worldwide in different ways.
94
Start traveling....with Travel Times

12 -17 Travel News 66 Recommended Restaurants 86 a tale of vagabond
Get with the latest news and events in Nepal A guide to the most happening restaurants in town. Meet a travel enthusiast, Dennis G. Jarvis who’s
and around the globe. already been to almost half of the world, sharing
18 Travelers’ gallery 78 croc with a pot on nature & wildlife his travel experience...
With waters that are suited for the Gharial, Nepal’s a
Check the best captures sent to us by travelers. hot spot for sighting this amazing crocodilian. 96 REEL Travel
Find out the best documentaries of KIMFF and
52 Health Times 82 a photoGraphic journey to Traveling FSA
Know about staying healthy while traveling in namo buddha on photologue
summer Witness the natural beauty of the unsurpassed, 98 Events and Tips
Find out what’s happening around you.
58 shangri-la hotel & resorts supreme sacred sites and unmatched artistry in every
inch of monastery.
on HOTELS & CASINOS


14 Travelnews NATIONAL www.eticketnepal.com
Sanjay sets another

Sanjay Pandit, one of the aspiring marathon km. The marathon was organized with the
landmark in the Nepali
runners of Nepal has set another landmark objective of making people aware about
Athletics in Nepali athletics by completing the 196km global warming and climate change. After
marathon from Jiri to Kathmandu in a re- reaching the President’s residence which
cord of 21 hours. was the ending point of the marathon, San-
jay gifted the black sand, black stone and na-
The race which started at 6:10 am from Jiri tional flag brought from Jiri to the President
was escorted by an ambulance, Tata Vesta, letting him know about global warming.
and Gladiator Bike with the member of 10
people including media persons. Sanjay The marathon was organized by Kantipur
started from Jiri which is at the attitude of Valley College and was supported by Min-
1932 metres, then climbed up 550 metres up istry of Environment, Nagarik Hospital and
to Khawa, followed by 1700 metres climb to the media partners- Avenues Television, Na-
Tama Koshi, then another climb of 2700 garik Daily and Mahadevi F.M. The whole
metres up to Kharidunga and finally climbed program and team was managed by Jeeten-
down to Bhote Koshi with the night stay at dra Man Amatya. The run was initiated as
Khadichaur. part of Sanjay’s project of covering the whole
of Nepal starting from Mechi in the East to
The total distance covered in the first day Mahakali in the West, with a total distance
was 110km and the second day which started of 1050 km.
from Khadichaur covered the remaining 86
Continued increase in the Rani Mahal to be renovated Rani Mahal was built on the bank of the Kali
Gandaki River by Khadga Shumsher in mem-
number of visitors ory of his beloved wife Tej Kumari nearly 150
years ago.
The palace is getting a facelift after its depre-
dation for more than a decade. Tourism Of-
fice, Bhairahawa, has allocated one million
rupees for the redecoration of the queen’s
palace.
Renovation and redecoration to enhance the Restoration ahead of Nepal Tourism Year
exquisiteness of Rani Mahal, also known as the 2011 is sure to cheer locals and tourism en-
Nepal’s Taaj Mahal, has been commenced. trepreneurs.
The figures released by Immigration
Office, Tribhuvan International Airport Oman Air names general Shanghai Expo to
(TIA) show that visitor arrivals in the
month of April 2010, have increased by
sales agents promote NTY-2011
2.3% to 38,694 compared to the same Nepal has been par-
month last year. ticipating in Shanghai
Expo-2010 from May 1
The overall arrivals from South Asian
to attract and promote
region have gained positive growth. The
Nepal’s Tourism Year
figures also show increasing movement Oman Air has appointed general sales 2011 (NTY-2011). Ne-
in the visitor arrivals from the USA and agents (GSA) in Kuala Lumpur in pal pavilion at Shang-
Canada. However Australia and New Malaysia, Dar Es Salam in Tanzania, and hai Expo is focusing on attracting more
Zealand have registered negative growth. Kathmandu in Nepal, three of its soon-to- Chinese tourists and will be distributing
This is the eleventh month Nepal has be-launched-destinations. brochures about Nepal and its tourism
witnessed a consecutive growth in the The carrier will be flying to Kuala Lumpur destination in Chinese language.
international tourist arrivals. In the first four from May 1, to Dar Es Salam from June 1 During the expo, Nepal will be showcas-
months of 2010 a robust 21% of cumulative and to Kathmandu from June 17. Amravati ing its cultural performances, heritages
growth has been observed. Travels has been appointed the GSA for and other attractions. Nepal will have two
A total of 49,096 foreign tourists departed Nepal. information desks and the special pavilion
from TIA in April 2010.The number of “We are sure that both inbound tourism in the expo will help tourists get visas and
Nepalese arrivals stood at 50,672 while and outbound tourism between Oman other facilities as fast as possible.
66,757 Nepalese departed from TIA in and these countries will prosper greatly,” The expo will conclude on October 31 af-
April 2010. said Abdulrazaq Alraisi, General Manager, ter 184 days.
Worldwide Sales.
MAY - JUN 2010 TIMES For lowest fare, Log in to


16 Travelnews NATIONAL www.eticketnepal.com
Korean is first woman to scale 14 highest peaks news in brief

Oh Eun-Sun successfully completed the summit of Annapurna 13 years after she scaled
• Nepal vows to accomplish
summit of Annapurna, one of the Himalayan her first Himalayan mountain, Gasherbrum II, national tourism campaign
giants, to be the first woman to scale the world’s in 1997. Despite political unrest in the country,
14 highest mountains. a world recognized tourism destination
“We recognize her achievement as the first woman Nepal aims to succeed in national tourism
“I would like to share this joy with the South climber to scale all the highest mountains in the campaign “Nepal Tourism Year-2011
(NTY).
Korean people,” said Oh, after summiting world,” said Ang Tshering, president of the Nepal
Annapurna in central Nepal. She reached the Mountaineering Association. • Nepalese woman wants to climb
highest peaks in 7 continents
Following the foot steps of Oh Eun-Sun,
Mt Dhaulagiri grand celebration on cards the first Korean woman to climb the
highest peaks in all continents, Junita
Pokhara will see a three-day Golden Jubilee by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Sambahamphe, a Nepali girl in her
twenties is aiming to attempt the same.
celebration on May 12, 13 and 14 of the first Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji,
ascent of Mt Dhaulagiri (8,167-metre), the members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition team led • Dragon Air increase its flights
to Nepal
seventh highest peak in the world. Various by Max Eiselin. The list of guests for the historic Dragon Air is planning to increase its
programs will also mark the day in Kathmandu day includes 78-year old Austrian climber Kurt flight to Nepal from September, with the
and Beni, the foothill of the Mt Dhaulagiri. Diemberger -- the only surviving member of the increase in visitors to the country during
Nepal Tourism Year 2011.The airline is
first expedition team -- and other mountaineers going to increase the number of inbound
Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960 from around the world. tours to Nepal via Hong Kong.
• NEW JOINING - Crowne Plaza
The next SAARC meeting to be held in Kathmandu Soaltee Kathmandu
Sony Chaudhary has been appointed
After the Sixteenth Summit of the South Asian eco-friendly approaches and technologies to Assistant Manager - Marketing and
Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) make South Asia a world leader in low-carbon Public Relations at Crowne Plaza
Soaltee Kathmandu, Nepal. She will
in Thimpu, Bhutan, the Leaders of SAARC technology and renewable energies. be responsible for strengthening the
issued a joint declaration titled Thimpu Silver positioning of the hotel in national &
The Leaders accentuated the need for
Jubilee Declaration “Towards a Green international market.
promotion of tourism to enhance greater
and Happy South Asia”.
people-to-people contacts in the • Anuradha Koirala nominated for
CNN heroes
In Silver Jubilee Year of SAARC, region and called for the creation Anuradha Koirala, the chair person of
the Leaders have agreed to of tourism-friendly environment. Maiti Nepal, has been nominated for CNN
form a ‘South Asia Forum’ They welcomed the offer of the heroes Award. She has been nominated
for her continuous and relentless
for the generation of debate, Government of Nepal to host the
contribution in the women’s and children’s
discussion and the exchange of Third SAARC Ministerial Meeting issues, particularly in the prevention of
ideas on South Asia and its future on Tourism in Kathmandu in trafficking within and from Nepal.
development. Concerned by the 2011 which coincides with the Nepal • New General Manager at Everest
extent of environmental degradation Tourism Year 2011. Hotel Kathmandu
in the region, they have agreed to adopt Mughis Khan has been appointed General
Manager at Everest Hotel with effect
from April.
Nepali government to exempt Promotional program to • Nepal’s Birdman in World Records
Gautam Sapkota, from Hetauda, Nepal
visa fee for mountaineers attract tourists from India has set a World Record for most birds-
Nepali government has exempted visa fee for Nepal Tourism Year (NTY-2011) Coordinating calls imitating. He mimicked 151 different
types of birds-setting for the record.
Mt. Everest and Dhaulagiri summiteers for Committee has set promotional programs at
the year 2010 and 2011. The mountaineering the Indian borders with the aim of bringing in • Georgian team to climb virgin
peak
fee has been reduced to mark the Dhaulagiri 300,000 Indian tourists to Nepal in NTY-2011 A team of Georgian climbers is attempting
golden jubilee celebration, on May 13, and which will be started at Gorakhpur, Lucknow, to summit previously unclimbed Peak IV
Sagarmatha day on May 29. Raxual, Sitamadi, and Sunauli and other places (6736m). The successful summit of the
at the Nepal-India borders. virgin peak will help promote Nepal´s
The government is set to celebrate the third adventure tourism prospects ahead of
International Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) Day for Besides Indian tourists, the committee has also Nepal Tourism Year 2011 celebration.
two days, on May 28-29 with various programs. targeted to attract 100,000 tourists from China • A solo painting exhibition
in the NTY-2011. While, Australia Sales mission A solo painting exhibition by Sunita
According to Nepal Mountaineering Association Shakya with the title “Theme of Beauty”
was held from 18th-21st May-2010 at different
(NMA) more than 250 Mt. Everest summiteers took place from 20th-26th May, 2010
places in Australia to promote NTY-2011.The at Nepal Art Council. The exhibition
are expected to attend the program. Nepal has
number of total tourist arrivals from Australia was organised by Commercial Artists’
opened a total of 326 peaks for climbing. The
by air to Nepal during January to April 2010 Association of Nepal.
higher 293 peaks are managed by Ministry of
has increased by 10% as compared to the same • travel times can be read online
Tourism and Civil Aviation while the lower 33
period in 2009. If you have missed any back issues of
peaks are managed by NMA. Travel Times, now you can access any
back issues from anywhere via
www.traveltimes-mag.com
To enlist your news send us the details at news@traveltimes-mag.com

www.eticketnepal.com 17

18 Travelnews interNATIONAL www.eticketnepal.com
China Southern now MOROCCAN TOURISM AIMS TO ACHIEVE SIGNIFICANT

Asia’s largest airline POSITION IN THE GLOBAL MARKET
China Southern Airlines has become Asia’s
largest carrier in terms of passenger numbers
after overtaking Japan Airlines Corp, or
JAL, according to figures provided by the
two companies. According to a Channel
NewsAsia report, the Guangzhou-based
airline actually overtook JAL in 2008 when
its demand rose to 58.24 million passengers
per year. China Southern has said it expects
passenger numbers to rise 13% in 2010 to
nearly 75 million passengers.
The strengths of Moroccan tourism indus- Among the strengths of the Moroccan
try were discussed at a recent conference in tourism industry discussed at the confer-
Moscow. The potentials of the country to ence were geographic diversity, its histori-
achieve significant position on the global cal and cultural legacy as well as the coun-
tourism market were highlighted in the try’s proximity to Europe.
conference. Morocco regards tourism as
one of the main industries contributing to
the economy of the country. Although the
Emirates opens Mumbai
On the other hand, the Japanese airline
is restructuring with the help of a state- global tourism had to undergo a difficult lounge
backed turnaround fund after filing for period, the Moroccan travel trade managed
bankruptcy in January. It has said it will to face the challenges in an adequate way.
cut international and domestic capacity
over the next year by 40 percent and 30 Speaking at the conference, Lachhab said,
percent respectively, compared to the 2008 “The current Morocco’s ambition to position
fiscal year. Combined with previously itself strongly on new markets besides our tra-
announced route-cutting plans, JAL will ditional markets, reflects the new dynamics of
cease to run 28 international routes and the country and a focus on the areas of our
close 11 international bases, while 50 industry with the highest potential for devel- The Emirates Lounge in Mumbai has be-
domestic routes will be terminated, along opment” as quoted by Fmdt.ma. come the first lounge to be opened by an in-
with eight offices. ternational carrier in India. Passengers from
Mumbai can now enjoy Emirates’ trademark
Robin Hood Fans to Visit legend. While the world is preparing for service both on the ground as well as in the
the grand premiere, VisitBritain, the UK air. Offering passengers the latest in conve-
Nottingham national tourist office, has declared May nience, comfort and luxury while on the
the month of Robin Hood. move, the lounge will play host to all Emir-
ates’ First and Business Class passengers as
The Nottingham Castle has opened an well as Skywards Gold members.
impressive exhibition called Robin Hood –
the Movie, which features costumes, props Emirates' Divisional Senior Vice Presi-
and other behind-the-scenes memorabilia. dent of The Airport Services, Mohammed
Visitors to the castle will get a rare chance Mattar, said, “This lounge is part of our
to see an interesting tournament, and have commitment to provide world-class ser-
a lesson in archery. The City of Caves is vices to our passengers. With the exclusive
an absolute must see here. Not only were Emirates lounge in Mumbai, combined
these hand-carved limestone caves the with our trademark Chauffeur Drive Ser-
perfect hide-out for many outlaws, they vice, our First and Business Class passen-
run under the city and once led to the gers will enjoy greater comfort and conve-
castle itself. nience when travelling from their doorstep
through to their final destination.”
The movie opened in Australia cinemas
With the new Robin Hood Movie com- nationwide from May 13 and fans of both Set over an area of more than 650 square
ing out in May, Nottingham and its sur- the legend and the film are lured to fol- metres, the lounge can accommodate 100-
rounding areas have become the ultimate low the footsteps of the legendary prince plus guests at a time, including 38 fine din-
adventure destination for all who love the of thieves. ers and seven in the business centre.

www.eticketnepal.com Travelnews interNATIONAL 19
France encourages high- Kempinski eyes into boutique

spending tourists Kempinski Hotel will venture into bou- location of the property, combined with its
tique hotels by its first hotel in Cairo, superlative facilities, give Kempinski a great
Egypt in June, according to a senior ho- opportunity to positively establish the brand
tel executive. The Kempinski Nile Hotel, in Cairo. The hotel design and location of-
designed by French architect Pierre Yves fer a great competitive advantage.”
Rochon will be the first boutique hotel in
the Egyptian capital. Kempinski Nile Hotel is set to offer the key
values of city boutique hotels. The contem-
The hotel which consists of 191 rooms is porary elegant design is combined with the
expected to serve as an oasis of peace, relax- warm atmosphere and the tailored service
ation and art. Axel Ludwig, General Manag- reflecting the European luxury and life style
er, Kempinski Nile Hotel, said: "The prime blended with the Egyptian culture.
International Travel Expo held at Bahrain

Ninety exhibitors from 30 countries around BITE is supported by the Culture and In-
the world met at the sixth edition of the formation Ministry, ABTTA and the Capi-
The French tourism body has initiated a Bahrain International Travel Expo (BITE tal Governorate. Elite Hospitality is the
new drive to attract more high-end travelers 2010) held at the Bahrain International official hotel, Avenue Car Rental and Leas-
by creating increased awareness about the Exhibition and Convention Centre. The ing is looking after the ground transporta-
country's myriad attractions. three-day event, which began from May 13, tion and TTN (Travel & Tourism News
was held under the patronage of Culture Middle East) and Al Hilal Group are the
France attracted a little over 725,000 tour- and Information Minister Shaikha Mai media partners while Radio Voice is the of-
ists from the Middle East and Near East bint Mohammed Al Khalifa. ficial radio channel.
in 2009, and expects to maintain the mo-
mentum in 2010 by encouraging more high ITB Asia demand reaches 60% of travelers intend
spending tourists. "Our strategy is long-term
and we want to create awareness about the new heights to travel at the same or
With the demands increasing rapidly, indica-
immense tourist potential of France and its
tions are that ITB Asia will grow strongly this
greater rates
new destinations in Rhone Alps and Bor-
year making it the largest ITB Asia since the
deaux," said Karim Mekachera, Director
event launched in Singapore in 2008.
of Atout France, the state-owned French
tourism body. Atout France is taking some
Around 15% more floor space has been sold
meaningful promotional activities to pres-
so far this year, compared to same period last
ent the country’s compelling charm and year. Demand from Asia is leading the global
diversity to the region's travel community. travel industry recovery. Exhibitors have greatly
increased or doubled and their space this year
France is also set to announce a new five- includes: the Tourism Authority of Thailand, A new study conducted by D.K. Shifflet & As-
year tourism strategy for 2010-2015 which Nepal Tourism Board, the Indonesian Min- sociates finds that approximately 60% of recent
will seek to reinforce the country's pre- istry of Culture and Tourism, Asian Connec- travelers intend to travel for either business or
dominance as the top destination through tions Alliance, Booking.com, Frasers Hospi- leisure at the same or greater rates than they did
new infrastructure development as well tality (Singapore), La Flora Resort and Spa in 2009.
as at a later stage unveiling new destina- (Thailand), and Luxury Travel (Vietnam).
tions opening up attractions in Rhone Alps The study, conducted among over 2,200
and Bordeaux to complement the known Show organiser, Messe Berlin (Singapore), recent travelers, revealed that 25% more
and traditional attractions of Paris and the positions ITB Asia as “The Trade Show for the business trips and 20% more Leisure trips
French Riveira. Asian Travel Market.” are planned in the first half of 2010. All the
more, travelers are planning to spend more
money this year. Only 14% of Business and
The New Seven Wonder reopens to public after two months 16% of Leisure travelers plan to spend less
One of the New Seven Wonders of the Pueblo at the base of the ruins. Machu Pic- in the first half of 2010 than they did last
World, the ancient Inca ruins site Machu chu, also known as “the Lost City of the In- year. Interestingly, travelers under the age
Picchu, Peru reopened to visitors after a two- cas,” is the most famous tourist attraction in of 35 plan to take the most Leisure trips in
month closure due to a storm. Hundreds of Peru, and is located 80 km northwest of the the next six months, but are most likely to
foreign visitors entered the ruins following southern Peruvian city Cusco. It was only in spend less than they did last year.
the morning reopening, as an early down- 1911 when the Inca ruins drew international
pour gave way to brilliant sunshine. attention for the first time with the efforts of The results of this study are based on a D.K.
The entire route is expected to reopen in American historian Hiram Bingham. Shifflet & Associates national online survey
June. Until then, tourists can take the bus Machu Picchu welcomes around one mil- of 2,242 respondents who had traveled in the
from Cusco to Piscachuco and from there; lion visitors per year, with an average of 2000 past three months, conducted in January,
they can take the train to Machu Picchu to 2500 daily visitors. 2010.

20 TRAVELers’GALLERY www.eticketnepal.com
k
g handru
trek to
pashupati, ka
thmandu
Phedi, rasuwa
iri
BY Surath G
Phedi, Ra suwa like the clouds.”
“Look how high we ascended, justm from where Gosainkunda is a day walk.
Phedi, situated at about 3600 By Surath Giri

pur
Khokana, lalit

www.eticketnepal.com 21

22 | www.eticketnepal.com
TRAVELOGUE


I wonder if the roads are eagerly waiting vehicles or if space is just

not a problem there

is.
id n’t. kill, th at
us, altitude d
Thankfully, for



2828
| newintown www.eticketnepal.com


30 | COVERSTORY www.eticketnepal.com
LUMBINI
Buddha’s Abode
The birthplace of Lord Buddha, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and
home to amazing monasteries representing Buddhism the world over,
Lumbini is no less than fascinating.
Words Utsav Shakya

Photos Suresh Maharjan (Travel Times) & Rocky Prajapati
MAY - JUN 2010TIMES

www.eticketnepal.com CoverStory - LUMBINI | 31

32 | CoverStory - LUMBINI www.eticketnepal.com
L
umbini is a delight. Sadly, the same can- ing around the expansive gardens. And we were
not be said about its summers. While it off - shaky cycles, bottled water and heavy camera
rained cats and dogs in Kathmandu, the equipment. If you’re new to Lumbini and what it is
mercury rose to 45 degree Celsius in Lumbini. In popular for, you should probably either buy a bro-
short, it was too damn hot. The area gets a nice chure that lists out the different monasteries there
breeze from nearby rivers, someone told me, forget- or hire a guide, both of which are easily available.
Lumbini is is situated in the ting perhaps that the breeze was a hot one. By the We had brochures and books, which led us straight
western region of Nepal. time we reached our hotel, Lumbini Garden New to the Maya Devi Temple, the birthplace of the
Crystal at seven in the morning, we were already Buddha.
sweating. Ushered into our master suite (a jacuzzi
and a fridge full of chilled beer!), we immediately Before barging into Lumbini, I had been read-
freshened up, had some breakfast in the hotel’s res- ing up on the history of the place. The first men-
taurant and set off for the Lumbini gardens. There tion of the place was as ‘Lum Min’ in the diary of
are rickshaws, cycles and taxis on hire. The best op- Fa Hian, a Chinese monk from 409 CE. Many
tion seemed to be old, Indian made, Hero cycles; pilgrims had visited the site then. Much later,
they’re cheap at NRs.200 per day or NRs. 40 per when the Asiatic Society decided on exploring
hour. And you can take your own sweet time, troll- the area, Prithvi Narayan Shah, who united the

country through ruthless annexations, did not al- Sakyas, was born here”, the Buddha’s birthplace It was a Nepali,
low it. Its rediscovery is said to have started much was rediscovered, again.
later in 1893 when a Nepali army major happened General Khadka
upon a sandstone pillar here. Dr Alois Fuhrer, a The Buddha or Siddhartha Gautam as he Shumshere
Viennese man associated with the Archaelogical was called before he attained enlightenment
Surveyor based in Lucknow, India was brought in, was born in Lumbini in 642 BCE to the Shakya
Rana who came
who established that the pillar had been erected in queen Maya Devi and King Shudhodhana; facts upon another
the 3rd century by emperor Ashoka. Triggered by backed by countless research papers as well as an similar pillar
this discovery two simultaneous digs were started, UNESCO World Heritage Site listing. It is said that
in both Nepal and India. However, it was a Ne- the pregnant Maya Devi was travelling to her mater- also erected by
pali, General Khadka Shumshere Rana who came nal home, when she went into labor and gave birth emperor Ashoka
upon a similar pillar also erected by Ashoka in a to the young prince as she held on to a Sal tree. She
village called Rummendei, modern day Lumbini. died a week later and left young Siddhartha to be
Upon reading the inscription on the pillar, a part of raised by her sister. At age twenty nine however, Sid-
which reads “…King Priyadarsi (Ashoka), Beloved dhartha Gautam, after witnessing human suffering,
of the Gods, visited this site in person and offered left his wife and infant son to seek answers to ques-
homage here because the Buddha, the sage of the tions that bothered him about human life.

The inside of the famed Maya Devi temple, with Buddha’s The Ashoka pillar erected as a reminder of emperor Ashoka’s
footstep and ruins from hundreds of years ago. visit to the area greatly aided the rediscovery of Lumbini.
The present day Maya Devi temple, built over cool and I sat down for a while to meditate under
the remnants of a 3rd century Maya Devi temple my own Bodhi tree as my photographer friends
that had been excavated in 1899 houses, under- made the most of the light conditions. The only
neath bulletproof glass, a footprint of the Buddha as sounds were that of a group of pilgrims from Sin-
well as ruins of the area. The structure is very basic, gapore who were chanting and of birds chirping.
with a scaffolding-like pathway around the ruins for Closing my eyes here, I tried to imagine myself at
inspection and also an image of Maya Devi giving the same place but in the Buddha’s time, in a gar-
birth to the Buddha, called the Nativity Sculpture. den that was Lumbini, located at the boundaries of
The outside of the temple reflects the simplicity of the Koliya and Shakya kingdoms. With the fading
the inside, its walls whitewashed and with a small light, candles were lit around the pond giving it a
stupa on top, the Buddha’s eyes keeping watch surreal aura. As we prepared to be done for the day,
over the lush landscape. Adjacent to the temple is the night lights came on, bathing the ancient gar-
the Maya Devi pond, the Pushkarani, with several den and ruins in a romantic yellow light and allow-
large fish and turtles, where Maya Devi apparently ing the temple to glow. Walking amid centuries’
bathed before giving birth to the young prince. old ruins, we made our way back.
There is also a large Bodhi tree here, often mistak-
The first footprint of Lord Buddha en by devotees as the one under which Siddhartha The development of Lumbini came about
enclosed in bullet proof glass. Gautam attained enlightenment. Prayer flags blow with one man’s vision and devotion to his faith.
in the wind, running from tree to tree, crisscrossing U Thant, the 3rd United Nations Secretary Gen-
in random manner, giving the gardens some much eral was a Burmese national who put forward the
needed color. There are also some ruins surround- idea of developing the place as an international
ing the temple complex, not from the Buddha’s pilgrimage site for Buddhists. The UN supported
time but later monastic structures from the 3rd Lumbini Development Committee whose mem-
century BCE to the 8th century CE. Unearthed by bers came from countries such as Burma, Cambo-
an amateurish government excavation in 1933, it dia, India and Japan commissioned the design of a
had later been restored quite carelessly and stands master plan for Lumbini to a Japanese architect,
now more for decorative value than anything else. Kenzo Tange. The design of the plan alone took
five years and a reported $ 5 million. Originally,
The harsh sun proving bad for photography, we 37 countries were listed to make modest monaster-
The Nativity structure which
shows Maya Devi giving birth to retired to the cool comfort of our hotel. Roaming ies here, not competing in grandeur but to display
the Buddha as she takes support around in the mid day sun is not advised. In the af- the various ways in which Buddhism was practiced
against a Sal tree. ternoon, well rested and after a cup of local chiya, worldwide. According to early estimates, work here
we re-entered the Maya Devi temple. The outsides was to complete in 1987. The master plan today,
of the temple, like any other popular temple in is still very far from completion. Besides the Maya
Nepal are lined with small stalls that sell souvenirs Devi temple, the rectangular area in the plan is di-
in the form of Buddha statues, postcards and little vided into the East and West Monastic Zones, fol-
knick knacks. Inside, in the fading light of the af- lowed by the New Lumbini Village Zone. We de-
ternoon, the gardens adopted a different calm. The cided to start with the East Monastic Zone which
image of the temple was beautifully reflected in the houses the Theravada monasteries, early the next
still, green waters of the pond. The breeze now was day because it had fewer sites.


Inside Thai The next day, our bodies a little stiff from yes- On our way here, we ran into Rabindra Hin-
terday’s cycling, we headed out to get our cycles du, a 12 year old brat who rode behind us on our
Monastery, red where the owner, a smiling, young man, unbeliev- cycles and gave us partially true information in re-
and gold walls ably tanned from working in the sun, gave us a turn for snacks and juice. He became a guide of
discount on the rates. Stocking up on water, we cy- sorts for the entire time we were in Lumbini. In
and ceiling cled around the lake to get to the Thai monastery. the green lawns of the Thai monastery, Rabindra
provide a rich, The construction of this monastery on five acres of took some time off from his guide work to cool off.
well suited land was started in 1997 by the Thai government. As I watched him derive full pleasure from a rub-
The grand monastic wall and some buildings have ber pipe spewing cold water, my eyes wandered to
background been designed and built according to typical Thai fields beyond the monastery area. There was dense,
for the gold architecture. In the day’s bright light, the imposing idyllic forestation on most sides, punctuated by the
white monastery shone brightly. Pictures of Bud- sight of the tops of other neighboring monasteries
polished idols of dhist actor Richard Gere adorn some of the notice making the sight look fairytale like.
the Buddha. boards, perhaps in an effort to up the star quotient
of this site. Inside, red and gold walls and ceiling
provide a rich, well suited background for the gold
polished idols of the Buddha. On either sides of the
main hall are smaller quarters for official purposes
as well as separate buildings built in similar style,
for the monks and also the dining rooms. A prayer
room is under the main hall here but being out of
bounds for the moment, we moved on.
1. The red and gold interior of the majestic Thai monastery.

2. On a hot summer’s day, we ran up these burning hot
stairs of the Thai monastery.
3. A view of the gardens beside the monastery and the
monastery itself in the background.

Next to the Thai monastery was a Theravadin off under the single fan and making funny noises I thought it was
temple built by the Mahabodhi Society of India. until the guard chased him out.
Work on this started in 1996 on 1.5 acres of land. most in line with
Surrounded by plentiful mango groves, the struc- The next plot is reserved by the Bengal Bud- the original
ture is very modest. I thought it was most in line dhist Association for construction of their Thera-
with the original plan of Kenzo Tange, to have sim- vadin temple which has not begun yet. Adjacent
plan of Kenzo
ple structures representing Buddhism around the to it is the beautiful Theravada temple built by the Tange, to have
world. Beautiful repousse work depicting the life Myanmar government also known as the Lokamani simple structures
of the Buddha adorns the main hall. Here again, Cula Pagoda. Work started in 1993, but despite the
Rabindra made the most of the facilities by cooling grandeur of its single golden spire, the surrounding representing
area failed to impress us. Here too, a circular, cov- Buddhism
ered pathway leads around the central stupa, with
seating areas to perhaps meditate on. The temple is
around the
built on five acres of land. The main stupa is actu- world.
ally a magnificent replica of the Burmese Sweda-
1. The simple exterior of the
goan pagoda. Adjacent to the Burmese temple is
Theravadin temple built by the
the Nepalese temple built by International Bhik- Mahabodhi Society of India.
shuni Association. Built on 1.5 acres of land the
2. The impressive golden spire at
compound houses nuns. In front of the accommo- the Burmese site.
dation is a large, rather nice pond surrounded by
overgrown bushes.

1. The resort like, calming On December the 1st of 1998, the Sri Lankan gov- mencement of the pending work. Later, Sri Lankan
design of the Sri Lankan ernment commenced the construction of a Sri Lankan pilgrims to Lumbini accidentally met Ven. Dr. Ram-
monastery.
temple, Sri Lanka Maha Vihara in this zone. Bearing bukwelle Chandrarathana Thero, visited the monas-
2. The main Buddha idol at the hot sun, we finally got here, our cycles crunching tery, and were shocked to see the state of affairs of the
the Sri Lankan site atop
hard against the thick layer of gravel on the roads. The complex. They invited the chief abbot to Sri Lanka
a raised stage.
Sri Lankan temple has a rather resort like feel, with and subsequently held a meeting with high officials
3. Depictions of the life of visible wooden rafters and water bodies. The mural on to explain the incomplete status of the monastery and
the Buddha on the walls
of the monastery. the front depicts the life of the Buddha wonderfully invited them to pay a visit. Invitation accepted, a del-
while the main golden Buddha idol is a peaceful im- egation headed by Hon. Minister Chamal Rajapaksha
posing presence atop the structure. visited the monastery complex. Pretty soon work was
restarted. Presently, with the President of Sri Lanka as
During the period from 2006 to 2008 the construc- the Patron and also the Chairman of the Sri Lanka
tion work had been neglected and several appeals Monastery Development trust of Lumbini in Nepal,
were made to the Sri Lankan Government through the complex seems more or less complete. Nearby, the
the Sri Lankan Ambassador in Nepal for the com- Vipassana meditation centre is under construction.
MAY - JUN 2010 TIMES mountain flight for just $111. for more info, Log in to
1
1. Notice the detail work on the walls
and the wooden pillars at the front.
2. The simple design of the Manang
Samaj Gompa.
The cool, spacious interior of the still under construction Nepali monastery.
The ceiling is a beautiful blue, imitating the Tarai skies.
Two days had passed since we arrived in Lum- bank of the pond to the Panditarama International
bini. Come day three, we set out early, hoping Vipassana Meditation Centre. Heading north, a
perhaps to be back in the cool of our hotel rooms track turns west to the Drubgyud Chöling Gompa,
before noon. The harsh sun had already given us a classic Tibetan-style gompa built in 2001 by Bud-
all terrible headaches the day before, dampening dhists from Singapore and Nepal. The mural work
our spirits. Cycling to the crossroads where the inside is quite refined and a gigantic stupa is under
road divides into two, to the east and west monastic construction next door. A small track veers south
zones, we took a moment to inspect the Eternal to the tasteful Manang Samaj Gompa, an impos-
Peace Flame. Former king Gyanendra Shah lit this ing giant chörten (Tibetan reliquary stupa) con-
torch of eternal peace here in commemoration of structed by Buddhists from Manang in northern
the international year of peace in 1986. The flame, Nepal. Surrounded by greenery, the premise also
I thought was quite a fitting symbol here of all plac- houses a small pond. The Nepali monastery nearby
es to symbolize a desire if not the ideal condition is a work in progress. A replica of the Swoyambhu-
for world peace. nath stupa in Kathmandu, the inside of the huge The Shanti Deep, or the Peace
stupa is a huge hall with a blue sky like ceiling and Flame at the junction from which
The West Monastic Zone has been set aside for cool, white marble floors. Taking center stage is a the area is divided into the east
and west monastic zones.
about 15 Mahayana monasteries of which most are standing statue of the Buddha atop a small shaded
under construction. Starting at the Eternal Peace stage.
Flame, we followed the dirt road along the west

A serene looking statue of the Buddha takes center stage at the Nepali monastery.
40 | CoverStory - bouddhanath www.eticketnepal.com

www.eticketnepal.com CoverStory - bouddhanath | 41

1. The typical Chinese 3

architecture at the Zhong Hua
Chinese Buddhist
2. A gold polished structure
of a Chinese warrior at the
monastery.
3. Characters from Chinese
mythology holding musical
instruments and weapons at
the entrance to the monastery.
4. The unfinished Korean
monastery structure. It has
been accused of going against
regulations that maintain a
certain maximum height for the
structures. Next is the Zhong Hua Chinese Buddhist
5. Flowers in bloom at the Korean Monastery built by the Chinese spending more
monastery premises. The area than four million pounds and completed in Sep-
is full of such trees. tember 1998. The buildings are made in typical
Chinese architectural style. I had been here before
with some friends when it had been quite new. The
present site has weathered significantly. Taking
MAY - JUN 2010 TIMES if you are traveling to china, unbelievable offer is waiting for you..
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photos of the main idols of the monastery is forbid- The first monastery to be built in this zone how-
den but apparently scribbling on the walls of this ever is the Vietnamese monastery, Phat Quoc Tu
beautiful structure is not. The walls of the shaded on 6.25 acres of land. The traditional Vietnamese
pathway that surround the central courtyard are architectural buildings and 25 meter tall structure
full of doodles professing undying love, courtesy is quite a sight. It is however still under construc-
of visiting locals. The central courtyard, the Chi- tion. Nearby is the Dae Sung Suk Ga Sa Korean
nese style buildings and the chanting sounds com- Buddhists’ monastery. While the main hall is still
ing from inside the main hall reminded me of a under construction, the guesthouse is already com-
Chinese movie set. The main hall is constructed plete. Standing tall, the Korean monastery even at
in a typical pagoda style with low slanting roofs and such an early stage looks quite a sight with its in-
huge statues of the Buddha in a meditating pose. tricate design. When completed, the site is sure to
The state of disrepair here is disheartening. In com- be a major attraction. For now, the premises were
parison to other places, the garden and the area abuzz with tourists who can check in for budget
in general seemed quite unattended to. Still, the accommodation. Rooms are available here for as
sound of the Chinese monks in white robes, beat- low as NRs.500 for three people with shared bath-
ing softly on drums and chanting was definitely a rooms. Looking at the basic prices here, I made a
calming factor. At the entrance of the monastery mental note to come here with friends in the win-
stand huge images of Chinese warriors, guardians ter and stay at this peaceful and more suited mode
perhaps to the inner sanctuary. of accommodation.

most of the space in the main hall. What is most

striking is the ceiling-full of fascinating Buddhist
artwork popular for its detail and symmetrical style.
A simpler, framed Thangka takes months to make
- this was a ceiling-full of a full sized hall. Even
the sides of the monastery have not been spared of
artwork. The walls on all four sides are beautifully
decorated with images of Swoyambhunath, Boud-
dhanath and detailed descriptions of the chakra -
cycle of life. The surrounding landscaped gardens
are no less amazing. In life size models, the sloping
gardens surrounding the monastery have depic-
tions of the life of the Buddha from the time he
was born to his death. Also within the premises are
small ponds with live fish and also fountains and
miniature animals. The stupa and its surrounding
gardens are a sight for sore eyes, no less than an
oasis in the dry Tarai expanse. Behind the Ger-
man monastery is the Sokyo Gompa, a traditional
Rabindra had The sight of young Tibetan monks, pelting
Tibetan-style gompa built by the Japanese Sokyo
stones at a mango tree isn’t a common one. One was
warned us atop the wall of the beautiful German monastery, Foundation. The new Linh Son Monastery is be-
ing constructed by French Buddhists next door.
before that once also called the Great Drigung Kagyud Lotus Stupa.
Built by the Tara Foundation, the attention to detail
we got in, we here, in every aspect of the monastery, is awe inspir-
would not want
1. The detail of the grand entrance of the Tara Foundation’s
ing. Rabindra had warned us before that once we German monastery.
to leave the got in, we would not want to leave the entire day.
2. A statue of Maya Devi laying on the grass in front of the
He was quite right. After hopping up steps that were
entire day. He super hot from the mid day sun, the cool of the mar-
German monastery.
was quite right. ble comforted immediately. Atop the main hall is
an intricately designed, colorful stupa, with an idol
of the Buddha inside a glass casing. Prayer tables
and glass cases with small Buddha statues take up

4
3 1. The extraordinarily
beautiful German
monastery.
2. A large prayer wheel in
the surrounding gardens
of the monastery.
3. An art of dragon
4. The detail work on the
inside of the monastery.
6 7
5. Notice the painstakingly
completed art work on
the ceiling.
6. The young prince before
he gave up all earthy
desires for the life of a
monk.
7. The young prince before
he gave up all earthy
desires for the life of a
monk.
For more photos on

Lumbini, visit
www.traveltimes-mag.com
1
1. The young prince takes his first ride outside the comfort of his palace.
2. The prince witnesses pain and suffering and death for the first time.
The popular Japanese peace stupa in the Lumbini Village zone.
3. The prince cutting off his hair to start his new life.
4. The Buddha at first sat in meditation without eating.
The Japanese The New Lumbini Village Zone is purely al- Also within this zone lies the World Peace
5. The Buddha praying before he attained enlightenment.
4 located for the material world i.e. for residence, Pagoda of Asia made by Japan, an addition to the
pagoda, though education, and social activities. It is in the northern original master plan. The site sadly also marks a
6 isolated from the part of Lumbini and is a gateway to Lumbini just hideous crime where a monk Navatame was mur-
before entering into the spiritual and sacred lands. dered in 1997. However, since then, the pagoda has
other stupas and The zone has a rather hip looking museum with its become a beautiful site for pilgrims and tourists.
monasteries, modern, minimalistic design, libraries and Interna- The Japanese pagoda is isolated from the other stu-
has become a tional Buddhist Research Institute. The library and pas and monasteries, towards the end of the village
research center, although their buildings are ready, zone. At the entrance is a lovely lotus pond, the
beautiful site are still to be opened. Construction is underway clear skies beautifully reflected amongst the pink
for pilgrims and for many hotels, guesthouses, a hospital and tour- lotuses. A three tiered pearl white structure, balco-
ist centers. The five star Japanese Hotel Hokkei is nies circle the central stupa with its golden Buddha
tourists. already in service. idols in its various avatars. Adjacent to the peace
pagoda is a meditation center.
www.nextyatra.com CoverStory
CoverStory
- bhaktapur
- patan | 49
japanese pagoda in different perspectives

50 | CoverStory - lumbini www.eticketnepal.com
Around Lumbini
On the flipside of this amazing construction more productively and also to supplement their
and vision of faith and people’s beliefs, is another husbands’ income. On the other hand, the hotels
reality. Abject poverty is rampant here. Young chil- would definitely earn brownie points by using lo-
dren wander around the Lumbini gardens trying to cal products such as this. A simple workshop would
make a quick buck when they really should be in be enough to train these women in making hand
school. Teenagers pull on many times their weight crafted items such as these, preferably with materi-
on rickshaws, taking tourists around the gardens. als abundant in the area. This could mean items
Rickshaw pullers line up at the gate of the garden, like table cloths, soap and decorative items. But
waiting for their turn to take in tourists; each rick- who would do it? Who would take the initiative?
shaw waits two weeks for its turn. Outside the gar-
den premises, I noticed the dark Madhesi man who Wanting also to understand the state of educa-
rented out cycles to us resting under the shade of tion in the area, I asked about schools in the area
a tree from beyond the garden’s wall. If this shade and was directed towards two. One was run by a
were also extended to developmental relief in the local volunteer group with land donated by a well
form of infrastructure for schools, agricultural off villager. Little children ran helter-skelter here,
works and better health services, Lumbini could it was lunch time. When the bell rang for class
really outdo itself. the children obediently filed into their respective
classes. In large choruses, they shouted out multi-
Ironically, the Ironically, the master plan that Kenzo Tange plication tables and a very fast version of ‘twinkle
master plan drew up did have plans for developing the agri- twinkle little star.’ One of the larger rooms had two
cultural capacity for the villages in the area. This classes going on at once, one in the front and one
that Kenzo however was scrapped, possibly because of budget a little back. Another group of children, studied
Tange drew up constraints. The construction of cheap accommo- in the shade of a large Bodhi tree; plans to build
dation in the New Lumbini Village Zone was be- a classroom for them were underway. In the gov-
did have plans ing accused of killing local entrepreneurship. How ernment school, the attitude was starkly different.
for developing could locals possibly compete? I thought perhaps The principal immediately put up a guard, per-
the agricultural the locals ought not to compete with these accom- haps mistaking my curiosity for criticism. Classes
modations for this precise reason. Maybe there were to start the other day for the next session and
capacity for the were other things locals could do. We found some book distribution was on. Many children had failed
villages in the answers in a short tour of Mahilwar village, directly and would have to repeat the year again, putting
behind our hotel on the last day of our trip. in doubt if their parents would want to spend any
area. more money on their education. A ‘ghar dailo’ pro-
After cycling for a few kilometers, we rested un- gram was to be launched where teachers would go
der huge, dense Bodhi trees conversing with locals to the village homes and encourage people to ad-
who too were resting after a hard day’s work. The mit their children in school. Girl students made up
harvest had been good and they expected a good almost 40% of the total number, I was told.
earning. Buffaloes trampled over tori (mustard)
plants, separating the tori seeds from the chaff. Drinking some cold water pulled from a hand
Nearby, in a houseful of women none of whom pump and splashing some on face too, I looked at
would tell us their names, we watched them artful- the village from where I was sitting. Beyond the
ly weave plastic baskets in colors as colorful as their trees in the distance were the sacred gardens, the
saris. A large basket, roughly a foot in diameter sells monastic zones and the luxury hotels. On this side
for NRs. 300. How long does it take to weave one however was such a different reality. Tourists pour
this size? I asked a beautiful young mother. “It dif- in to Lumbini in the winter, filling up the few
fers. I have a child who does not care about time good hotels and all the small lodges. But besides
tables. When I have to attend to him, it could take employment in the hotels, their own small lodges
me weeks. Otherwise a week at most,” she said, and shops, there is not really much that the devel-
her almond shaped eyes popping out against her opment of the area as an international pilgrimage
dark face. They’d learnt it themselves they said, site has done for the local community here. This is
something which got me thinking. These women especially sad because so much needs to be done
could set up cottage industries as a way to pass time here.

www.eticketnepal.com CoverStory | 51
1. Young students at a Madrassa in Mahilwar, a village near the

Lumbini gardens.
2. An elderly woman finishes up a straw basket at home. The women
sell these beautiful baskets at ridiculously low prices.
3. Although a lot of girl children go to school, most get married away
quite early.
4. A sadhu in the same village. He loves off alms that villagers
contribute.
A couple work at a manual fan in the midday sun.

52 | CoverStory - lumbini www.eticketnepal.com
What are the primary objectives of trust making for it?

Lumbini Development Trust? Lumbini is already pulling in at least 83,000
Our main objectives are to make sure that the tourists annually, including internal tourists. I
master plan drawn decades ago by Japanese think for a site like Lumbini, which has such
architect Kenzo Tange are followed as sincerely global appeal for obvious reasons the flow
as possible. Lumbini Development Trust was of tourists will surely increase. On the part of
established solely with this aim. the trust, we are setting up an official desk
representing the trust at Tribhuwan International
What are some of the past and present Airport to disseminate proper information
activities of the trust? regarding Lumbini. I think the number of hotels in
The trust has been active in trying to go ahead Bhairahawa and Lumbini itself can accommodate
with completing the work as soon as possible. the increased flow of tourists.
I would say that infrastructure wise 65% and
financially 35% work of the work has been Lumbini’s master plan is nothing short
completed so far. The Lumbini Visitor Center, of spectacular? But the town hasn’t
Acharya Karma schools and other ventures are not complete yet been able to benefit from such a huge
and will require a huge investment. At the present project. What can LDT do for Lumbini -
Sangbo Sherpa rate, the project will be completed in no less than the town?
is Vice Chairman of ten years. As I said before, the role of the trust is to make
sure the master plan is implemented sincerely.
Lumbini Development What kind of hurdles has Lumbini As for development work in Lumbini, I am
Trust (LDT), established Development Trust faced in the of the opinion that financial development is
implementation of the plan? not synonymous to dharmic development or
in 2032 B.S. We have not faced any hurdles so to say but as happiness. Most poor people for obvious reasons
is the norm with any other large scale project, think that money will solve all their problems. This
Travel Times talked finances have been a problem as well as is seldom the case. But there is also a problem
to him about Lumbini circumstantial problems too. One thing I would say of attitude. In Nepal, there is a general tendency
that has hampered the rate of progress in Lumbini to wait for things to happen or for someone else
Development Trust’s is the unstable government of Nepal. Changes in to do things for you. Lumbini’s case is similar. I
role in Nepali Tourism political appointments make it very inconvenient think the people there have great potential and if
for work to go on uninterrupted. they believe in themselves, they can and should
and how Lumbini as a make things happen for themselves. The trust can
town could be so much Lumbini draws in many tourists to Nepal. however be an effective channel or even advisors
more. Excerpts from the What role do you think Lumbini will pay for such works. The government should then
for the upcoming Nepal Toursim year facilitate these efforts.
interview: 2011? What kind of preparation is the
Getting Lumbini: Where to stay:

Take a 45-minute flight from TIA There are plenty of options for Garden New Crystal Hotel, directly
in Kathmandu to Gautam Buddha accommodations once you get to opposite the Lumbini garden and
Airport in Bhairahawa or catch a Lumbini. For budget accommodation, with well designed rooms and good
bus that leaves from the Gongabu there are a large number of small food. AC rooms are available for
Bus Park. Bhairahawa can also be lodges in the street directly in front of NRs. 2200. For those who want to
reached by bus from other parts of the main gate of the Lumbini Garden. splurge, there is the Lumbini Hokke www.welcomenepal.com
the country. Buses to Lumbini leave Reservations are not necessary here. Hotel. The Hokke targets wealthy Together for Tourism
every hour or so from 6 am to 5 Room rates are upwards of NRs. 500. Japanese pilgrims who come to pray
pm from Bhairahawa. It takes 40 There is also the Korean monastery at the nearby World Peace Pagoda.
minutes from Bhairahawa to reach which provides clean, cheap fares for Rooms are available in Western and
Lumbini. its hostel like accommodation. Single For more photos on Lumbini, visit
Japanese-styles with tatami floors,
rooms are NRs. 500 while a larger www.traveltimes-mag.com
paper partitions and Japanese
room can be shared for four or eight furniture. The restaurant serves top-
people for only NRs. 1000. notch Japanese set meals.
In a medium range is the Lumbini (+977 71 580236)


54 | hEALTHTIMES www.eticketnepal.com
health
S tay i n g
By Dr. Ravi Shankar
Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical
pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur. He
has traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been
while traveling
involved in research about staying well at altitude. He
is keenly interested in rational use of medicines and
in summer
in empowering common people about health, illness
and medicine.
Like everywhere else, kill most disease-causing microbes. In case plan to do a lot of walking, invest in a pair
temperatures are on the rise in the water is turbid and has a large amount of comfortable walking shoes and wear
Nepal. The mercury rose to 340 C of organic matter, allow it to sediment and them with cotton socks. Use sun glasses
in Kathmandu and Pokhara and boil thoroughly before drinking. Store with ultraviolet protection. Take periodic
nudged the forties in TErai towns. boiled water in clean containers to avoid breaks in a cool and shady spot. To main-
It’s common for families to travel recontamination. Fresh fruits and veg- tain energy level consume carbohydrates,
to cooler climes, perhaps to etables have to be washed thoroughly and fresh fruits and vegetables. Drink plenty
their native homes or even plan peeled before eating. Salads are a major of water. As a rough rule of thumb if your
getaways to foreign locales. No hazard as lettuce and green vegetables are urine is not dark colored it means you are
matter where you go though, it’s often grown in dirty water and the crevices drinking enough water.
important to know some tips on and uneven surface of the leaves makes
staying healthy while traveling in dirt and microbes hard to remove. All raw Diseases of the summer
the summer. food is to be soaked in an iodine solution Gastrointestinal problems, viral fever,
and then washed with drinking water. food poisoning and amebiasis are com-
Traveling in buses mon problems during summer. Keep oral
Buses remain an important means of trans- Be careful with meat rehydration salts (ORS) handy and be fa-
portation in Nepal. Traveling in buses in Non-vegetarian food if not prepared prop- miliar with how to reconstitute it. The skin
the summer can be quite a pain. Carry erly can be a high risk item. Eat meat only takes a major beating during the summer.
plenty of clean, cool water with you. If if you are absolutely sure about hygiene Fungal infections affecting mostly the
possible also carry non-perishable home otherwise stick to well cooked vegetarian groin and breast regions are more com-
cooked food items. A problem especially food. Non-distilled alcoholic beverages mon. Keep such areas dry to reduce risk.
for ladies while traveling is the lack of toi- like chhyang - home brewed liquor made Change inner wear frequently and ensure
let facilities. Many people try to minimize by fermenting rice, may have been pre- they are washed properly. Cotton inner
the problem by drinking less water. This pared using unsafe water increasing risk wear is strongly recommended. Because of
may cause problems in the dry heat of the of diseases. While eating beef or pork en- excessive sweating and dust, the pores of
plains and lead to dehydration. If repeated sure it has been cooked properly to reduce the sweat gland which open on the skin get
this can increase the risk of bladder and the risk of tape worms and other parasitic blocked causing ‘prickly heat’, small erup-
kidney stones. Also, take full advantage of infestations. Well done may be safer than tions on the skin.
all opportunities to stretch your legs by tak- rare while ordering steaks and hamburg-
ing a small walk when the bus stops. ers. Yoghurt and curd is full of commensal Heat strokes
bacteria which do not allow harmful bac- Heat strokes occur when the human body’s
Eating and drinking while on the move teria to colonize your gut and the acidic self cooling mechanism fails after contact
Be careful about what you eat and drink. pH discourages growth of many microbes. with the sun for a prolonged period. The
Roadside food and snacks are better avoid- inability to produce sweat by a dehydrated
ed. Food preparation and storage condi- Staying cool in the heat person could also cause increased risk of
tions may leave much to be desired and Clothing plays an important role in staying heat stroke as the body temperature rises
food spoils quickly as the high summer cool in the summer. Light colored natural rapidly. The symptoms are weakness, vom-
temperatures promote growth of bacteria fabrics especially cotton and loose fitting iting, headache, dizziness, high body tem-
and other organisms. Freshly prepared food clothes are recommended. A light colored perature, unconsciousness, high pulse rate
is best while food not properly stored can hat with a wide brim is very useful. Stay and difficulty in breathing among others.
spoil quickly. Another problem is the ever in the shade as far as possible and avoid
present dust and flies; the latter can spread prolonged exposure to the harsh midday Following these simple precautions will as-
many diseases. In the summer, streams, sun. To avoid damage to the skin, apply sure you have an uneventful (health-wise)
wells and rivers go dry and water quality sun screens and sun blocks. As mentioned trip. Enjoy your summer getaway!
may be suspect. Bringing water to a roll- in a previous issue use preparations with
ing boil for about 15 seconds is enough to a high sun protection factor (SPF). If you

56 | personalityreview www.eticketnepal.com
An h UR WITH
Yogendra
Shakya
Yogendra Shakya, National Coordinator Let’s dive straight into the numbers game. WhY
the one million tourists’ target? Are we going for
for Nepal Tourism Year 2011 is on the hot quantity over quality?
seat. Can the million tourists’ target that First of all, Nepal has never been a quality destination. And
we have never really marketed it as a product. Looking back
NTY 2011 has set be achieved? at the history of Nepali tourism, this is pretty clear. We never
advertised Nepal as a tourist destination. During the 70’s,
Travel Times met him for a brief tête-à- due to the free availability of drugs here, hippies poured in.
tête at his Hotel Ambassador about his So we opened up restaurants and lodges to accommodate
them. Soon these tourists discovered trekking trails and tem-
work and the life that’s got him where he ples and so tourism grew and we went with the flow, building
our infrastructure as and when needed. So with NTY 2011,
is today. it is more about rebranding the country with the added fea-
tures of certainty and security which Nepal has been tagged
with due to the Maoist insurgency. As for the number, it is
something ex-minister Hisila Yami came up with and I don’t
know what formula she used for it. One good thing that hap-

www.eticketnepal.com personalityreview | 57
pened was that with the change in government, Nepal as a great destination for ‘Events and Activi-
our target with this campaign did not change and ties’, such as conferences, workshops, parties and The private sector
we gave it continuity which does not always hap- the like. Along with this we have also started work
pen in such situations. enhancing present infrastructure and chartered
rightfully thought that
new destinations and trekking routes. Part three of a ‘rebranding’ of the
So is NTY 2011 the first product for the campaign is ‘Promotion and Marketing’ with country was essential
tourism that Nepal is marketing? major targets beings India for 260,000, China for
Not really. I like to call it a by-product actually 100,000 and European countries for 250,000 tour-
to give a loud and
– of Jana Andolan 2. With the end of the monar- ists. The government and the private sector are clear message to
chy and the Maoists coming to power, the Maoist partnering on this as builders. the international
government promoted the need for an economic
revolution. The first venture in this was to promote There are people who dream about impractical community that Nepal
tourism which has taken a bad hit due to several goals regarding this campaign and there is the pes- is now ready and all
things - the decade long civil war, a bloody royal simistic bunch. So simply put, as National Coor- set for tourism.
massacre and a country severely bruised by bad dinator, my work is to co-ordinate between these
politics and poor security situation. The private two groups.
sector rightfully thought that a ‘rebranding’ of the
country was essential to give a loud and clear mes-
sage to the international community that Nepal is
now ready and all set for tourism. This is why the
huge launching of ‘Together for Tourism’ was so
important with everyone from the Prime Minister
to the political parties committing to do every-
thing they can to make NTY 2011 a success. This
included a commitment from the political parties
that they would refrain from organizing country
wide closures as well as one from entrepreneurs
who promised to ‘invest to create revenue and em-
ployment’.
A million targets sound too good to be

true. How exactly are you going about
with reaching this target and what
are your responsibilities as National
Coordinator?
Yes, a million is a big number. But what skeptics
need to understand is that a million is the target
so if we get 700,000 tourists to come in 2011, we
will not have failed because it will still be much
better than the numbers from last year. And this
is an ongoing process; maybe we will reach that
target in 2012 or 2013. It is just high time we set
a target and set out to achieve it. The homework
for achieving this goal is happening as we speak.
There is a main committee and 14 sub committees
that look after different components of the plan.
The entire campaign has been divided into three
parts. Part one of this strategy was the launching
of the slogan ‘Together for Tourism’ and gather-
ing the necessary support. If this would not have
gone ahead smoothly, we would have ended the
campaign there and then. The second part of the
campaign is capacity building and product devel-
opment. This includes airlines and airports for
700,000, land connections for the rest 300,000 and
hotel and home stay for the entire million tour-
ists. With product development we are advertising

58 | personalityreview www.eticketnepal.com
So what got you here, to the post of building that kind of PR is very important. All of
National Coordinator? Tell us about how this got me here and I think gave me an edge over
you got into the business and your early others to be qualified for this work.
days.
I never planned on working in the hotel industry You’ve spent your entire adult life in this
actually. In my case, it was literally an accident sector and Nepal has been through many
We really need to that got me into it. I had had an accident and was trials and tribulations in this time. What
come ‘together for in Valore for a checkup. Afterwards I was to start in do you think the tourism sector still
tourism’ in order for an engineering school. But I met a friend who had has not learnt that it needs to, to really
studied engineering and who really discouraged blossom?
tourism to really take me from going into engineering and rather sug- See if we were to continually blame each other for
off and achieve its full gested I look into a hotel management course. At whatever is wrong with the tourism sector or the
potential. that time Kathmandu Guest House was operating country, no progress would ever happen here. If I
with 13 rooms and tourism had not really taken off blame others for my shortcomings, I would never
here. Also because of my health, I thought hotel take the initiative to improve myself. This is what
management would be less strenuous so I got en- plagues the country and its developmental plans
rolled. Little did I know that it would require me today. Over these years, I have always seen nine
to do housekeeping and clean the dishes too! So I people chasing down one person for a deal. In the
slogged like a laborer for three years there, met the end, no one gets the deal and no one really ben-
woman whom I would later marry and then did efits from it. So all of us lose the possible business
a Post Graduate Diploma from Italy in Tourism we would have got from the deal. This needs to
Management. And when I finally came home, I change. We really need to see the bigger picture
could see a bigger picture. With time I came to and not fight over petty things. We really need to
understand the politics of this industry and joined come ‘together for tourism’ in order for tourism to
HAN at an early age too. I did a lot of work without really take off and achieve its full potential.
financial remuneration. Working with people and


60 |
hotels&casinos www.eticketnepal.com
shangri-la
h o t e l & r e s o r t
The fabled paradise on earth, a place of complete bliss and delight. A hard name to live up to, but even
though situated smack-dab in the middle of a bustling and impatient city, Hotel Shangri-la does exactly that.
Text by Yesha Malla
Hotel Shangri-la is the brain- the years, the hotel has main- ing streets of Kathmandu. The quiet environment or merely
child of visionary Shyam Ba- tained its initial objective of seemingly somber walls of the take a breather from work. Who
hadur Pandey, who dreamt of being a cozy yet sophisticated hotel hide a warm interior with says one can’t mix business with
opening a hotel that was more place that transcends tradi- beautiful art and ornate décor. pleasure? Hotel Shangri-la has
a home away from home than tional and modern differences. Ushered welcomingly into the a business center that provides
an impersonal mercenary ho- Located just seven km from spacious lobby lit up in warm state-of-the-art facilities. It also
tel. He was assisted by Des- the airport, in the Embassy lights, you may see reception- boasts of the Desmond Doig
mond Doig, and the two joined district and minutes away from ists helping guests feel at home Room, a library-cum-lounge,
efforts in building the perfect Thamel, Kathmandu’s tour- and hotel staff helping travelers and the Sammelan and Baithak
paradise. Shangri-la was lov- ist hub, Hotel Shangri-la wel- get familiar with the sights and halls. These are special meet-
ingly planned and constructed, comes all guests to stay in lush, sounds of the country. All in ing rooms that the hotel mostly
and finally opened in 1979. It grand comfort. all, a hotel that really cares. rents out for business confer-
is of no surprise that Shyam ences and meetings, furnished
Bahadur Pandey then enlisted As soon as you step into the Hotel Shangri-la mainly caters complete with international
Desmond Doig to help him premises of Hotel Shangri-la, to a corporate clientele who standard conference equip-
run the hotel together. Over you forget the busy and harass- wish to work in a peaceful and ment such as lecterns, 35 mm

www.eticketnepal.com hotels&casinos | 61
slide projectors and public ad- The Lost Horizon Bar, playing that it overlooks an amazing experience in its own right;
dress systems. But Shangri-la up the Shangri-la theme, serves garden. With a quaint coffee parents and children playing
is definitely not only for busi- drinks for every occasion: cock- shop and Illy coffee counter games and laughing in the sun,
nessmen. The hotel is family- tails, mock tails, and specialty nearby, the award-winning gar- couples enjoying some quality
friendly as well as a popular drinks with adventurous names den is full of neat, sparkling- time with each other, business
place for couples and friends. like ‘The High Lama’. green lawns and multi-hued associates discussing projects
flowers. Meandering paths while sipping on tea, even peo-
Hotel Shangri-la aims to pro- The Shambala Garden Café is lined by flowerpots lead to ple lazing around, indulging in
vide the ultimate luxury expe- perhaps the most special of all hidden alcoves under serene a good book and perhaps some
rience to all its guests. Uphold- the dining experiences the ho- trees. An afternoon spent at the pastries from the nearby “Cof-
ing its 5-star status, the hotel tel offers if just for the reason gardens can be an enjoyable fee and Cakes Shop”.
provides comfortable yet sim-
plistic rooms that are furnished With a quaint coffee shop nearby, the award-winning garden is
for optimum comfort and con-
venience. The rooms offered sprawling with neat sparkling-green lawns, multi-hued flowers:
which were categorized earlier nature at its very best.
as Superior have recently been
upgraded to Deluxe Rooms.
The latter is reserved exclusive-
ly for floor guests and includes
a Club lounge. With muted
colors and intricate woodwork,
Shangri-la‘s rooms have a sim-
ple elegance.
Hotel Shangri-la is a pioneer in

imaginative and multicultural
dining, offering guests gastro-
nomical treats from around
the world prepared in its own
kitchen. Saffron, an authentic
Indian restaurant at Shangri-
la, offers you magical delights
with its delicious sub continen-
tal cuisine full of heady flavors
and spicy aromas. The food, the
ambience, the traditional mu-
sic; everything is reminiscent
of an age old, proud culture.

62 | hotels&casinos www.eticketnepal.com
People with the

misconception
that Hotel Shangri-
la is a standard,
corporate hotel
will be pleasantly
surprised once they
visit this manmade
paradise.
But what Shangri-la would be snake -adorned golden taps at tured, nurturing and optimal lifelong ambitions of its found-
complete without a place for its front. Fashioned after an pampering environment with ers Shyam Bahadur Pandey
recreation? Hotel Shangri-la ancient brick and stone-carved an aroma of exotic flowers all and Desmond Doig are still
offers a huge red clay tennis royal bath from 16th century around, rejuvenating our body, carried out today with utmost
court for tennis enthusiasts, a Kathmandu, the huge swim- mind and soul. diligence. The recent heavy
fully equipped health club, fit- ming pool is surrounded by renovations and upgrades have
ness centre and sauna and the trees and high walls, providing People with the misconcep- made the hotel even better.
Elles Salon De Beauty for some privacy to swim away into bliss- tion that Hotel Shangri-la is a With its sister Shangri-la Vil-
indulgent pampering. There’s ful oblivion. Children splash stuffy, corporate hotel will be lage Resort in Pokhara, Hotel
even a play-garden for children around in the water while pleasantly surprised once they Shangrila Kathmandu strives
of all ages with swings, see- adults sunbathe in deck chairs visit this man-made paradise. to and marvelously succeeds in
saws, mini golf, and the ubiqui- nearby or head off for some Hotel Shangri-la’s continued giving the traveler the best of
tous slide. The gardens lead off private time in the spa and sau- effort to live up to its name is Nepal in beauty, warmth and
to a secluded space that houses na near the pool. The exquisite evident in its beauty, its im- hospitality.
the hotel swimming pool, spa which is run by “Healing maculate maintenance and
named Sundhara for the three Hands” offers a uniquely cul- its professional service. The


64 | FOOdRINK www.eticketnepal.com
Savor the flavour of
Russia
Russia
The largest country in the world by
area, but it is no less famous for its
hearty cuisine and the ability of its
people to indulge in copious amounts
of alcohol.
Text by Yesha Malla

Photos Courtesy Wunjala Moskva, Naxal & Chimney, Hotel Yak & Yeti
The surest way to know a country, its peo- soup, beetroot salad and lots of vodka, such as Ukranian vareniki, Uzbek pilaf,
ples and its culture is to join them for din- think Russian cuisine! The cuisine it- Georgian dolma and chakhokhbili.
ner. What better way to explore a people’s self like any other has evolved through
traditions and way of living than through the ages with the help of various influ- With cold winds and snow beating at your
their food? Globalization has allowed you ences. Originally, the typical Russian windows, it isn’t hard to picture traditional
to now savor any cuisine in any part of meal was plain peasant fare, consisting Russian families settling in cozy rooms
the world or even in the comforts of your of cereal and vegetables that thrived in for a warm meal of hot steaming stew
own home. Also, the recipes of one nation the cold climate of Russia - fish, mush- full of chunks of meat and cabbage, and
have influenced and been influenced by rooms, milk products and very rarely, hot stuffed buns fresh from the oven, with
cuisines from around the world. Still, food some meat. The Vikings introduced her- starters of soup and salads, and fortifying
and the way it is prepared and sometimes ring and preserving techniques to Rus- cups of tea or alcohol. Russian cuisine is
even tales of its origin can remind one of sia in the 9th century. The Mongol-Tatar strongly influenced more by its weather
and identify a particular people, a particu- invaders in the 13th century brought with and rough terrain than by external cul-
lar place. Think of sushi, you think Japan. them the samovar (a tea-making/serving tural influences. The long and cold win-
Picture dal-bhat and you think of Nepal. vessel), spices, techniques for grilling ters meant that filling, starchy food such
Such are the associations that build up meat, making sour clotted milk and pick- as coarse dark bread made from rye, po-
over time. ling cabbage (sauerkraut). Pasta, frozen tatoes and porridges made from various
desserts (gelato and sherbet), pastries, grains always made it to the dinner table.
Now Russia may be famous for its ex- and vodka were introduced to the Rus- Peasants indulged in the hearty “one pot”
tremely cold weather, its statuesque sian diet from Italy. French, Austrian and suppers that were usually in the form of a
people, and the fact that it is the largest German cuisines were introduced and soup ranging from a thin broth consisting
country in the world by area, but it is no adapted to Russian cuisine during the of mainly water and vegetables to a sub-
less famous for its hearty cuisine and reign of Peter the Great. In Soviet times, stantial stew-like affair with added fish or
the ability of its people to indulge in co- Russian cuisine accumulated numerous meat. Vodka was cherished for its instant
pious amounts of alcohol. Think Borscht national dishes of the Soviet republics warming abilities.

www.eticketnepal.com foodrink | 65
Kasha
Russian staple - porridge made of
buckwheat
A typical day in Russia, gastronomy-wise, as ex- Lunch, called obed, is the largest meal of the
pected consists of three major meals: breakfast, day and is commonly consumed at mid-day. It pervoe blyudo
Roughly translated ‘first dish’, the
lunch and dinner. Later in the evening some fami- consists of several courses and is often accom- soup course of Russian dinners.
lies may have a very tiny meal usually of fruits or panied with vodka. Lunch always begins with
vegetable salads. For breakfast, or zavtrak as it’s a salad, which is considered an appetizer and
called in Russia, people traditionally have tea and is called zakuska (‘light snack’). Russian salads
kasha, which is a kind of porridge typically made are much heavier than salads in the West with
from buckwheat and topped with sour cream or hearty portions of pickled or fresh vegetables –
even meats, fish or berries. Neither tea nor kasha especially cabbage - salted meats or poached
is limited to breakfast. Tea is drunk in massive fish and dressings made of mayonnaise or sour
amounts throughout the day and is considered so cream. The most popular salads in Russia are po-
important and symbolic of warmth and hospital- tato salad, vinegret – a salad with a tangy dress-
ity that no dinner party is considered complete ing of vinegar and vegetable oil - red-beet salad
without a samovar tea ceremony. Kasha is an es- and Salade Olivie or Russian salad, a particularly
sential part of every meal and when topped with famous salad made of diced boiled potatoes, dill
various foods, is a dish suitable and preferred for pickles, peas, vegetables and meat dressed in
special occasions such as harvest feasts, wed- mayonnaise.
dings, birthdays and even funerals. “You can’t
feed a Russian without kasha,” goes a Russian After the salad starter comes the soup course,
saying. called pervoe blyudo. Soup is a very important
component in Russian cuisine and sometimes
Russians believe that for energy to do work well doubles as the main entrée in harder times. There Borscht Soup
throughout the day, you need to have a big meal, are soups for every season and occasion, of ev- Famed beetroot soup bursting with
color and flavor
so pancakes made of buckwheat, huge omelets ery type: cold soups, light soups, creamy ones,
made from two or three eggs, and sandwiches noodle based, fish stews and vegetable soups.
consisting of cured or salted meats are common The most popular is the Borscht soup, the nation-
and are eaten in large amounts. Black rye bread al soup of Russia with flavorful diced meat and
is a staple of any Russian meal and is certainly vegetables on a meat-based broth unusually tint-
eaten at breakfast. Heavy and meaty, with a char- ed pink by beetroots and garnished with a gener-
acteristic ‘sour’ taste, Russian rye bread is nearly ous dollop of sour cream. Similar to gazpacho, it
hearty enough to be a meal in and of itself. It’s the tastes tangy with its sweetness from beets and
perfect bread to offset salted meats, pickled cab- tartness from sour cream, and is exceptionally Shchi
bage and sauerkraut. Toasted and slathered with versatile—it can be vegetarian or meaty, served Versatile hot cabbage soup
butter, it’s the perfect breakfast to start a day off hot or cold. Another common soup is “shchi”, a
well, and dipped in soup, it adds texture and flavor hearty cabbage soup that includes potatoes, pick-
to anything from the thinnest broth to the thick, les, herbs, and meat. Soup is usually served with
hearty stews of the northern steppes. some fresh bread and sour cream.

Dinner, called Uzhin in Russian,

is a warm familial affair, more of
a celebration punctuated with
toasts, stories and laughter.
Shashlik
The last course of the mid-day meal is the main plain sour cream and pirozhki, small stuffed buns
entrée, vtoroe blyudo. This course is often built filled with boiled meat, rice, eggs, sautéed fish,
around red meat or fish and is served with two mashed potatoes, cabbage or mushrooms served
side dishes of roasted or pickled vegetables and fresh from the oven are very popular. Sweet ver-
garner which consists of cabbage, potatoes or sions of blinis and pirozhki contain stewed or
kasha. The most common traditional main dish is fresh fruit, jam or cottage cheese and are served
the Pelmeni. Roughly translated as “ear shaped as dessert.
bread” it is a type of dumpling stuffed with meats,
vtoroe blyudo
The hearty main course of russian mashed potatoes, mushrooms or other vegetables Speaking of dessert, Russians love everything
dinners and cheeses, akin to our own momos. The dish is sweet, eating bite after bite of chocolate and
served with butter, sour cream or vinegar. homemade sweets with gusto. The very extensive
dessert course consists of an assortment of pies,
Dinner, called Uzhin in Russian, is a warm famil- cookies, candies, cakes and gingerbread. Rich lay-
ial affair, more of a celebration punctuated with ered tortes are composed of sweet butter creams
toasts, stories and laughter. It is traditionally a and nuts in between sheets of cake. Russians are
much smaller meal than the midday meal and only also fond of Baked Alaskas. Candy is often just as
consists of a variety of zakuskas and hot tea or rich, made of nuts, marzipan, dried fruit or wa-
pelmini vodka. An assortment of salads, caviar, pickles fers dipped in dark chocolate. Homemade favor-
tasty earshaped dumplings with every and cured savories is served. Kotlety Pozhar- ites include vareniki, dumplings filled with fruit or
filling imaginable
skie is ground chicken cutlets prepared with lots sweet cheese, medianyk, a wonderful honey cake
of butter. Shashlik is meat marinated in a mix of spiced with ginger, nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon,
onions, spices and lemon juice or white wine and kissel, pieces of stewed fruit thickened with
and grilled and skewered with slices of onion. cornstarch and milk poured over it.
Zharkoe is a rich stew made of vegetables and
meat in white sauce broiled in a special clay pot No dinner is complete without beverages and Rus-
and topped with cheese. Blinis, thin Russian pan- sian cuisine has its own brand of drinks to choose
cakes filled with meat, fish, caviar, vegetables or from. Besides the strong vodka that Russians love
to indulge in, there are drinks made from berries
and honey that are equally popular. Medovukha is
Blinis a light, special blend of vodka and honey. Mors is
Thin savory or sweet pancakes with made of berry juice. Kvass is a refreshing sum-
various toppings
mer beverage made from fermenting rye bread
which can be sweetened with honey or berries.
It is an ingredient in many soups. Shiten is a hot
winter drink made of honey and spices. After the
meal, hot sweetened tea is served frequently from
a samovar as part of the famed Russian tea cer-
emony. The samovar is a traditional Russian tea-
pot used to make strong black tea that is served
with sweet rolls, jams, chocolates and homemade
Piroshki
Hot buns stuffed with cabbage, meat cakes.
and vegetables

www.eticketnepal.com foodrink | 67
Vareniki
Variation of dumplings filled with
anything from fruit to meat
Medianyk
Sweet and spicy honey cake
Besides the strong vodka Russian etiquette:

that Russians love to indulge • When you are invited to a Russian house, bring
a gift to the family specifically for the hostess. A
in, there are drinks made bottle of wine, cake, box of candy or bouquets of
flowers are traditional. A small gift for the child is
from berries and honey that always appropriate.
are equally popular. • Always take off your shoes at the front door.
• The oldest or most honored guest is served first.
• Do not begin eating until the host/hostess asks
you to start.
Russian cuisine is rich, healthy and full of unique
flavorful foods prepared lovingly. No wonder it • Men pour drinks for women seated next to them.
has become popular all over the world, even in • Leaving a small amount of food on your plate
Kissel
Sweet and tangy fruit dessert Nepal. It was first introduced in Nepal by Boris indicates that your hosts have provided ample
Lissanovich, a man we fondly call the “father of hospitality.
tourism in Nepal” and who assisted in opening • It is improper to look into another’s plate or
the Chimney Restaurant. The Chimney Restau- saucer.
rant serves Russian specialties such as Russian • Small food should not be cut.
Borscht Soup, Chicken a la Kiev, chicken breasts • Do not cross your legs with the ankle on the knee
pounded and rolled around cold garlic butter with or put your feet on the furniture. It’s impolite to
herbs then breaded and fried, and Tenderloin stro- show people the soles of your shoes.
ganoff, a rich stew of meat and vegetables, using • Do not get up until you are invited to leave the
Kvass his recipes. Wunjala Moskva, a Russian-Newari table. At formal dinners, the guest of honor
One of the national alcoholic is the first to get up from the table. Tea and
beverages of Russia café founded by Mrs. Gayatri Kansakar to spread
conversation is done at the table after the meal.
the joys and flavors of Russian food as she had
experienced in Russia herself, serves delicious • There will be toasts. Your host/hostess will begin.
salads, zharkoe stews and pirozhki - a full Rus- In Russia, vodka is served straight and taken as
a shot.
sian fare. More Russian themed cafes are crop-
ping up all over Kathmandu. So if you can’t go • It is impolite for you to fail to offer a toast
honoring your host/hostess and thanking them
to Russia to taste their version of the momos or
for the gracious invitation into their home.
need an excuse to drink vodka all day long and
• Do take bites of food in between sipping vodka.
Shiten want to taste something new, delicious and fas-
A warming drink of honey and spices To not do so is bad form. And it will help absorb
cinating, you know where to go!
the alcohol.
Priyatnovo Apetita!

68 | Recommended restaurants&Bars www.eticketnepal.com
365 Restaurant with Hookah Bar Green Olive Restaurant & Shisha Layaku Restaurant Royal Thai Restaurant
Pulchowk, Lalitpur Bar Durbar Square, Bhaktapur New Baneshwor, Kathmandu
Tel: 2110800 Chhetrapati Tel: 4781104 Tel: 4781104
Speciality: Arabian Tel:4212730 Speciality: Multi Speciality: Thai
Speciality: Italian/Indian
Baryo Fiesta Mama Mia Italia Restaurant Rum Doodle
Naxal, Kathmandu Green Organic Café & Salad Bar Thamel Thamel, Kathmandu
Tel: 4414395 Thamel, Kathmandu Tel:2191729 Tel: 4701107
Speciality: Tandoori, Taas Tel: 4215726 Speciality: Italian Speciality: Steak & Pizza
Speciality: Nepali, Continental
Bhojan Griha Pvt.Ltd Matsuri Seoul Arirang Korean
Dillibazar HADOCK DINING & BAR Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Restaurant
Tel: 4411603 Pulchowk, Lalitpur Tel: 4229032 Nagpokhari, Kathmandu
Speciality: Nepali Tel: 5546431 Speciality: Chinese, Japanese Tel: 4429052
Speciality: Wings Momo Speciality: Korean
Bhumi The Restro Lounge Mike’s Breakfast
Lazimpat, Kathmandu Himalayan Java Coffee Lounge Naxal, Kathmandu Shisha Terrace Cafe and Bar
Tel: 4412193 Thamel Tel: 4781104 Thamel
Speciality: Newari Tel:4422519 Speciality: American. Mexican, Italian Tel:4701104
Speciality: Multi Speciality: Multi
Boddhi Garden Vegetarian Moods Studio Lounge
Restaurant Hot Breads Blue Bird Mall Shogun Japanese Restaurant
Maharajgunj, Kathmandu New Road, Kathmandu Tel:4215740 Babarmahal, Kathmandu
Tel: 4721939 Tel: 4429031 Speciality: Multi Cuisine Tel: 4263720
Speciality: Various Veg Tastes Speciality: Confectionery Speciality: Japanese
Nepali Chulo Restaurant
Bourbon Room Kausi Kitchen Restaurant & Bar Durbar Marg Tamas SPA Lounge
Narayanhiti Marg, Kathmandu Woodland Complex Tel:4220475 JP Road, Kathmandu
Tel: 4441703 Tel: 4227288 Speciality: Nepali Fixed Dinner Tel: 4257658
Speciality: Continental, Italian, Oriental Speciality: Multi Speciality: Multi
Nhuchhe’s Organic Bistro
Cafereena Khing Thai Baluwatar, Kathmandu Tukuche Thakali Kitchen
Sherpa Mall, Kathmandu Jp Road, Chaksibari Marg Tel: 4414383 Durbar Marg, Kathmandu
Tel: 4231313 Tel:4244378 Speciality: Organic Foods Tel: 4225890
Speciality: Thai, Multi Speciality: Thai Speciality: Authentic Nepali
Pizza Express
Café de Patan Koto Restaurant Lazimpat Tushita
Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel:2161212 Lazimpat, Kathmandu
Tel: 5537599 Tel: 4226025 Speciality: Pizza Tel: 4432957
Speciality: Newari Foods Speciality: Japanese Cuisine Speciality: Continental, Nepali
Rice & Bowl Restaurant
Chez Caroline K-Too Bear & Steak House Tripureshwor Wunjala Moskva
Babarmahal, Kathmandu Paryatan Marg, Kathmandu Tel:4260677 Naxal, Kathmandu
Tel: 4263070 Tel: 4700043 Speciality: Chinese Tel: 4781104
Speciality: French Speciality: Thai Speciality: Newari, Russian
La Dolce Vita Red Dingo Speciality: Israeli, Arabia
Delicatessen Center & Cafe Thamel Jawalakhel, Lalitpur
Durbar marg Tel:4700612 Tel: 01-6914930
Tel:4221331 Speciality: Italian Speciality: Australian
Speciality: Multi
Road House Cafe Royal Saino Restaurant & Bar
Dhaba Restaurant & Bar Pulchowk, Lalitpur Durbar Marg, Kathmandu
Thapathali, Kathmandu Tel: 5520524 Tel: 01-230890
Tel: 4100510 Speciality: Italian Speciality: Indian, Continental
Speciality: Indian
Factory
Thamel
Tel: 4701185
Speciality: Multi
Fire And Ice

Thamel
Tel:4250210
Speciality: Italian
Flavour’s Café & Restaurant

Bouddha, Kathmandu
Tel: 2140277
Speciality: Chinese
Ghangri’s Sumai Restaurat

Teku
Tel:4260630
Speciality: Multi


70 ADVENTUREINTRO www.eticketnepal.com
Snowboarding
One More Reason to Hit The Mountains
Words and Photos by Richard Ragan
I
t’s really no surprise that extreme sports Skiing has always had tags like luxurious Richard Ragan is an unlikely poster boy for
do so well in Nepal. After all, this is getaways, refined and proper attached to snowboarding in Nepal. For one, Richard
the land of the Gurkha soldiers, famed it. It’s always been associated with things works as Country Representative for the
worldwide for their unparalleled courage. you can do and things you can’t. Not United Nations World Food Program in Ne-
But extreme sports here also make up a good snowboarding. Baggy clothes, loud music, pal. It’s the kind of work description which
contrast to a more traditional culture and freestyle tricks - the mountain is your mis- makes you picture an aging, bespectacled
lifestyle that is still existent in most parts of tress with nothing to stop you from doing man whose idea of exercise is walk around
the country. Bungee jumping, kayaking, what you want to. Hurtling down steep the park and perhaps some golf on the week-
paragliding, mountaineering, rock climbing mountainsides, leaping off cliffs, kicking ends. Not so with Richard. The very amiable,
– we thought we’d seen it all. But we hadn’t. up a mini snowstorm and pulling off the progressive music loving Country Represen-
Snowboarding – that spoilt, loud, bastard unimaginable – this is what gets a snow- tative’s idea of fun is hurtling down some of
child of skiing has finally arrived in town. boarder’s blood pumping. the world’s largest peaks on a snowboard.

www.eticketnepal.com adventureintro | 71
TRAVEL TIMES met up with this adventurous guy and asked him about his
daredevil ways.
What kind of potential do you see for Nepal Where do you want to snowboard next? Any
in this sport? dream spots?
The snowline here is pretty high so I don’t think I’ve climbed on Manaslu for the last 2 seasons
the country will ever be able to develop traditional and there are places in Upper Gorkha I’d like
ski resorts. Backcountry or big-mountain riding to check out. Upper Dolpa, and Upper Humla
with helicopters is really the only way to go. To both have lots of potential and are also pretty
make the sport marketable, a number of things isolated so are great for the more adventurous
have to change. First of all, the Government has kind. So far the Annapurna Sanctuary has been
to make it easier. For example, instead of issuing one of the best areas with riding opportunities
a 1-week permit restricted to a specific mountain on Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, and An-
range, they should consider issuing blanket per- napurna 1. The Khumbu could be also great,
mits for the season. Heliboarding/skiing isn’t like but the mountains there are too exposed and
mountain climbing where the clients are fixed tend to get more windblown.
to a single mountain. You have to go where the
snow and weather conditions are best and this can How involved are you in bringing
change very rapidly. By offering a blanket permit
snowboarding to Nepal?
you get the flexibility to move through the whole
I am friends with a guy named Craig Calonica
range. As it stands now, we have to hassle with
who is really the pioneer. He is a former climber,
getting permits for each new group every week
and former US ski team racer with over 30 years
and the permit is always restricted to a single area.
of experience. He also owns Himalayan Heli Ski
And since we are basically chasing the weather,
Guides which is the only company in the world
having to jump through complicated government
bringing clients on ski and snowboarding expe-
procedures every week makes it hard to plan trips.
ditions in Nepal. Over the last 4 years, I’ve tried
Essentially, the Ministry applies what they know
to help Craig develop things here because I love
which is sort of a “mountaineering permit” model
the sport and I think he is doing something re-
and this doesn’t work for heliskiing. Secondly, for
ally revolutionary.
the sport to grow, I think it really has to be driven by
outsiders. Other than mountain climbing, Nepali
people don’t have a history of involvement with al-
What has been your most memorable
pine sports. Over time this could be developed, but snowboarding adventure ever?
initially the expertise has to come from outside the I guess probably getting caught in an avalanche
country. This means that the government has to on Annapurna South. We were shooting a mov-
try and make it easy for outside experts to work. ie for Nike ACG and an unstable slope cut loose
on me. Luckily I was at the top of the slide and Richard Ragan,
Snowboarding sounds expensive. How much working as Country
does a trip cost? Can Nepali people really Representative for
afford it? the United Nations
In general it’s an expensive sport -- using heli-
copters and riding in a place like Nepal makes World Food Program
it even more so. Trips here are all-inclusive and in Nepal, is an initiator
usually cost about $10,000 a week per person. Al- of Snowboarding in
though those prices are likely to go up next year
because helicopter rates have greatly increased.
Nepal.
You should only go with certified guides that
know how to read avalanche danger and provide
rescue services. There is also a great deal of safe-
ty gear one needs – avalanche beacons, probes,
portable camp, gammo bags etc. Of course all
this is what makes skiing here more expensive
than at a resort. As to if Nepali people can afford
it or not, if someone wants it bad enough, he/
she will find a way to do it. A few years ago, a
group of women raised huge amounts of money
to scale Everest so it can be done.

72 | adventureintro www.eticketnepal.com
just rode it out until it stopped. But for those

20 or 30 seconds, I thought I was done. The
weather also closed in on us and we couldn’t see
to move up or down. After a couple of hours the
weather broke and the helicopter was able to fly
in and rescue us.
Let’s talk a little about your personal life.

Where are you from originally? What are
your favorite childhood memories?
I was born in Norfolk, VA where my Dad was sta-
tioned as a naval officer. We moved on to New
Iberia, Louisiana, a place on the Gulf Coast
more famously known as the home of Tabasco
hot sauce. My father passed away when I was
pretty young so we moved back to my mother’s
hometown in the Mississippi Delta. When we
arrived, everyone sort of adopted my baby sister
and me so we basically had an entire town tak-
ing care of us. The Delta, among other things is
where blues music was born, and is chock full of
quirky and colorful characters. There was one
man in particular, Mr. Jack Carter, who imme-
diately took me under his wing. Mr. Jack loved
nothing more than being on the water travel-
ing up and down the river. We spent countless
days together camping, fishing, and hunting
along the Mississippi. Those experiences re-
ally shaped me and that’s where my love for the
outdoors grew. In fact, my son Carter is named
after Mr. Jack.
We spent What did you study? What were your

interests growing up? What other hobbies
countless do you have besides snowboarding?
days together I studied economics in undergraduate school,
and foreign affairs in graduate school. Truth
camping, be told though I’m more of an “experiential
fishing, and learner” so traveling has really influenced
me. After my first year of college, I decided to
hunting along backpack across Europe, but somehow ended
up in Northern Africa. That trip showed me
the Mississippi. how powerful the experiences of a journey can
be – the newness of discovery, the freedom of
Those being on your own in a totally alien place. My
experiences brothers and I were really into skateboarding,
comic-books and music. We’d sit for hours try-
really shaped ing to find the newest sounds to propel us up
and down a skateboard ramp we’d built. I al-
me. ways liked both art and reading so for me com-
ic-books offered a great blend of the two medi-
ums. Even today there is never a time when
I’m not digging into the latest graphic novel or
reading several books. When I was less busy,
I did a great deal of painting -- I met my wife
Marcela because she wanted to meet the artist
who’d drawn a mural she saw at a party I was
hosting. I don’t produce much anymore, but I
still try to view the world from the lens of an art-
ist because I think this makes life more colorful
and less serious.

www.eticketnepal.com adventureintro | 73
How about your career path? What did you

start off doing and what is the strangest job
you’ve held?
I started working when I was really young. Hold-
ing down a job, I believe, has played a big part
in making me more responsible. My grandfather
owned several grocery stores so at seven or eight
he had me bagging groceries for pocket money.
I’ve had a pretty wide range of jobs – farm laborer,
clerk in a Ralph Lauren store, cook, Peace Corps
Volunteer, and bartender to mention a few. One
of the things I think that has made me a better
person was working in the service sector. When
you have to wait on people one learns very quick-
ly about rude behavior. I usually find that the
biggest jerks are people that have never spent any-
time in the “service” sector. After graduate school
I moved to Washington, DC, and a few months
before starting an internship in the US Congress,
I was a bicycle courier. This was probably the
toughest job I’d ever had, dodging angry drivers
in chaotic traffic. The experience stuck with me
because I made friends whom I stayed close to for
the entire 10 years I was in DC. None of them
had anything to do with politics or government
so we likely wouldn’t have met, had I done some-
thing totally different.
A lot of children seem pretty sure about ...what

what they want to be when they grow up.
Did you have any such plans? Did they come motivated
true in any way? me to join the
Honestly, I didn’t have a clue about how’d I make
a living. I guess everybody dreams, but I never Peace Corps
really imagined I’d be doing what I do now. I’ve
had such a gifted life – plus an awesome wife who wasn’t so much
lets me go play in the mountains and three won-
derful children who love adventure. Because of
the idea of
my job, we get to experience life in places that helping people,
most people dream about. We travel the world
experiencing new things and then on top of it all but rather the
I actually get paid to do good things for people.
That’s tough to beat.
adventure of
going to a new
How did the Peace Corps opportunity
come about? What would be your most place.
memorable experience from those days?
After college, I was living in Aspen, Colorado,
being a ski bum, and a couple of my friends
came out for a visit. Both were serving in the
Peace Corps and they asked why I didn’t go get
a real job? In the end, what motivated me to
join the Peace Corps wasn’t so much the idea
of helping people, but rather the adventure of
going to a new place. My most memorable ex-
perience from the Peace Corps, was surviving.
No matter where one serves, volunteers univer-
sally have pretty much the same set of doubts
– some overcome them, others don’t. I guess
I took my experience to the extreme by living
with a tribe of semi-nomads in mountains of
the Philippines. They were also the last ritual

74 | adventureintro www.eticketnepal.com
the rest of the world. Not many people have the

chance to experience what its like to be in such
an intensely beautiful, but sometimes deadly en-
vironment. What I hate is the caste-system, and
while we say it doesn’t officially exist, everybody
knows it still does. I simply can’t buy the no-
tion that people are somehow created as lesser
beings; this is just an excuse to subjugate other
humans.
We know you love to travel. What does it

I love the mean to you though? Just getting away for a
break or something more?
Annapurna In my view, the human experience is about ‘re-
ally living in the world’ and travel is one of the
Sanctuary best ways to have that experience. I often tell
because it’s my daughter that each new day is so wonderful
because I get look at her and fall in love all over
where I’ve again. Travel offers us the same opportunity, to
headhunters of the country so their lifestyle fall in love again with the beautiful diversity of
done some was about as alien as anything middle-class kid our world.
of the best from Mississippi could have ever dreamed of.
During the first year, there wasn’t a day that What in your opinion are the five best travel
snowboarding passed when I didn’t want to go home. Eventu- destinations in Asia and for what reasons?
ally though, I adapted and ended up extending Nepal, because of the people and geography
in my life. my service by an extra year. One of the adver- – my wife has to fight with me to get me to
tisements for the Peace Corps during that time agree to travel outside the country. China be-
was, “The toughest job you’ll ever love,” and cause I think it is most fascinating place in the
there couldn’t have been an ad that was more world today. Bali, Indonesia because I learned
accurate. After spending three years doing that to kiteboard there and it was where my twins
job, I feel like I can now survive pretty much came into the world. The Philippines because
anywhere on the planet. I know it like the back of my hand and it is the
place I feel most at home in Asia. Phuket,
What brought you to WFP? Of the numerous Thailand because we bought a place there, my
places you’ve been stationed, what has kids love the beach and the water is nice and
been your favorite besides Nepal? warm which makes it so great for scuba diving.
I worked in the Clinton White House on the
National Security Council and the United Na- Where do you want to travel to that you
tions was among the issues I covered. WFP was haven’t already?
the agency that seemed the most action-oriented I’d love to snowboard in Valdez, Alaska, but the
so that appealed to me. The head of WFP at the lines are huge and honestly I’m scared stiff to
time was an American named Catherine Bertinni take on that level of intensity. I haven’t been to
and she recruited me. I became the 1st of what every country in the world, but certainly covered
would be three other NSC staff to join WFP. a lot of ground. Our daughter Zoey for example,
At that time there weren’t any former NSC staff has already lived in or traveled to 12 countries
working in UN Agencies, but just recently our by the time she was five. I guess the two places
old boss President Clinton’s National Security I haven’t visited that interest me are the North
Advisor, Tony Lake, was nominated to be the new and South Poles.
Executive Director for UNICEF. It’s hard to say
which other place I liked the best. North Korea What are your favorite travel destinations
was for sure the most difficult, made even more within Nepal and for what reasons?
so because I was American. In fact, my family is I love the Annapurna Sanctuary because it’s
still the only American family to have ever been where I’ve done some of the best snowboarding
allowed to live there. I guess I’d have to say Zam- in my life. To drop in on a line with the south
bia was among the most special because we love face of Annapurna 1 and Fishtail as backdrops
Africa and this was when we had our first child, has got to be the most awesome experiences
Zoey. imaginable. I also like Humla, Dolpo and
Upper Gorkha because these areas seem less
What do you love/hate about the country? spoiled. I’ve spent the last two seasons climbing
The natural beauty of Nepal is unparalleled. on Manaslu, and gotten to know the area where
After I’ve spent time in the higher mountains the Lo people of upper Gorkha live and believe
I always come back feeling slightly apart from this is one of Nepal’s truly special places.

76 | globaltreasure www.eticketnepal.com
Bagan
The religious city of
china For passionate tourists, the debate of Angkor Vs

Bagan rages on to this day and not without viable
NEPAL BHUTAN reason either. The beauty and wonder of Bagan
INDIA
speaks strongly for itself. Situated on the eastern
Bangladesh
banks of the River Ayeryawady, 688 kilometers from
MYANMAR Yangon, this city houses more than 2200 temples
BAY OF BENGAL BAGAN within 42 sq. km. Each of these temples is a jaw
LAOS
dropper. Bagan was once the center of Buddhist
rANGOON
THAILAND
culture and learning, the capital of an empire and the
one city which was built by kings and commoners
aNDAMAN sEA
alike.
Words Darshan Shakya

Photo Courtesy Ravin Bajracharya

www.eticketnepal.com : Globaltreasure | 77
history Bagan Today

While the city of Bagan dates back to al- thousands of splendid monuments of ev- Today, the city of Bagan stands as a mag-
most the beginning of the Christian era ery shape and size, the inner walls of most nificent tourism site, overshadowed by
(the 2nd century to be precise), the real his- of which were decorated with incredible the rocky political situation of Myan-
tory of Bagan begins with the ascension of paintings. This was Bagan’s golden age, mar. However, those who visit this city
king Anawratha in 1044 A.D. During the an era in which more than 13000 temples, nevertheless are rewarded with amazing
period, the people followed the Mahayana pagodas and other religious structures were views and memories to last a lifetime.
religion. In 1057, King Anawrahta con- built. The end of the 13th century marked Today Bagan draws tourists from around
quered Thaton and brought back to his the fall of the Bagan dynasty. It is believed the world.
capital the Theravada scriptures in the Pali that things began to go bad under the deca-
script, a large number of Buddhist monks, dent King Narathihapati, who built the Also, to make things easier for tourists,
as well as artists and craftsmen of every de- gorgeous Mingalazedi pagoda but went Bagan offers luxurious riverside accom-
scription. Bagan’s people received their bankrupt because of it, leaving it vulner- modations, where after a busy day of
alphabets, religion and scriptures from able to attack by Kublai Khan in 1287. touring the temples, guests can relax
these Mon monks. It was also from this With this attack, many of the structures with cocktails and watch the sun set
historic year that Bagan’s extraordinary of Bagan were torn down. Left to rot over the River Ayeyarwady. The place
architectural and artistic activity began. and decay, Bagan was hit by another is also famous as the centre of Myan-
It is said that each and every household calamity - the earthquake of 1975 AD, mar’s thriving lacquer ware industry.
was able to donate an enshrined pagoda, measuring 6.5 on the Richter scale. This Interested tourists can watch the skilled
because of their faith in Buddhism and disaster destroyed most of the principal artisans work on the various stages of the
also because of their wealth. structures from Bagan. However, over six-month process. Much of this lacquer
time, the locals and the government ware is destined for souvenir shops in
In a little more than two centuries, got involved in restoring Bagan to its Yangon, and from there to the world
the remarkable efforts of both king former glory. market.
and subjects covered the city with
Bagan stands as a magnificent tourism

site and those who visit this city are
rewarded with amazing views and
memories to last a lifetime.
78 | : Globaltreasure www.eticketnepal.com
Sites not to be missed

There are over 2200 temples in this city and although each one of these structures is a wonder, these are the structures that we recom-
mend you to not miss.
Ananda Temple Manuha Temple

1067, a decade after the Mon king
was brought to Bagan. The name
of the temple was given after the
name of the captive King Manu-
ha. Traditionally, Manuha was
considered one of the earliest tem-
ples at Bagan. In Bagan, the kings
and queens, the princes and prin-
cesses all built pagodas, both large
and small. Manuha the Mon king,
detained in Bagan, also wanted to
build a temple of his own. He did
not have money ready, so he sold
his priceless Manaw Maya jewel
to a rich merchant of Myinkaba
This is the most famous of all the Buddhas of the four ages; The Manuha temple is on the right and obtained six cartloads of pure
the temples in Bagan. This Kakusandha faces north, Kona- side of the main road going south silver. He used this to build the im-
temple was completed in 1091 gamana faces east, Kassapa faces from Bagan, and right in Myinka- pressive Manuha temple. It is still
A.D. by king Kyanzittha. It is south, and Guatama, the most ba village. King Manuha’s inscrip- an important place of worship for
modeled after the legendary recent Buddha faces west. How- tion says that it was built in AD Buddhists.
Nandamula cave in the Hima- ever, the legend of this temple is
layas. Soaring tall at 51 meters, quite tragic. The king, in order
it received its golden gilding in to retain the uniqueness of the Dhammayangi Temple
1990 in commemoration of the temple, got the architect monks
900th anniversary of its con- killed to ensure that another
struction. Contained within the similar structure was not built
temple are four great statues of by them anywhere else.
Shwezigon Pagoda
This temple is another of the tion. It was said that he was

four significant monuments of displeased by the Hindu ritu-
Bagan. After murdering his own als and one of them who made
king father, Narathu ascended those rituals was the Indian
the throne of Bagan and due princess who was the daughter
to that, he built this temple. of Pateikkaya, and executed her
It is said that Narathu oversaw for the same. The princess’s
Shwezigon is amongst the four established in Bagan. The pago- the construction himself and father wanted revenge for his
most significant buildings of da stands between the villages of that masons were excecuted innocent daughter and sent 8
Bagan. It was built as the most Wetkyi-in and Nyaung U. It is a if a needle could be pushed officers in the disguise of Brah-
important reliquary shrine in beautiful pagoda and was com- between bricks they had laid. mans and assassinated Narathu
Bagan, a centre of prayer and re- menced by king Anawrahta but But he never completed the in this very temple. Another sad
flection for the new Theravada not completed until the reign of construction because he was legend, but a temple built to
faith that king Anawarahta had king Kyanzittha (1084-1113). assassinated before the comple- awe.

www.eticketnepal.com : Globaltreasure | 79
Sulamani Temple traveler’s note

means ‘crowning jewel’ or ‘small This time, we had
ruby’. It was the first and most im-
portant temple of the late period
the opportunity to
(1170-1300) of Bagan monument interview Sophia
building and was built by Narap- Pande, a filmmaker,
atisithu. This temple is similar to
Htilominlo and the Gawdawpalin about her trip to the
in architecture but with better in- city of Bagan. This is
terior lighting. It stands beyond the
Dhammayangyi Temple. Important
what she had to say.
(In her own words)
features of the Sulamani include its
fine brickwork and use of stone in
both load-bearing areas as well as
on vulnerable external corner ele-
The thing about Myanmar is that in terms of the political
ments. The interior was once paint-
situation, you don’t know what to expect. You think that the
This is one of Bagan’s premier ed with fine frescoes but only dim
military might be stationed around the country and also
temple attractions. The name itself traces can be seen today.
anticipate some sort of repression. I’m happy to say that
during our stay, we did not have to worry about this at all.
Shwesandaw Pagoda If there is any of sign of civil unrest, however, the military
Built in 1057 by king Anawahta, forces are mobilized immediately.
this was the first monument in
Bagan to feature stairways leading The people of Myanmar are very friendly towards tourists.
from the square bottom terraces One would think that the people of an authoritarian state
to the round base of the pagoda it- would be quite suspicious, but this is not so.
self. The stupa is said to enshrine The heat is definitely an issue though. We went there in
hairs of the Buddha, a relic that February and yet it was still quite hot. To beat the heat, we
Bagan prides itself in. This temple woke up early in the morning and toured the temples till
is sometimes called the Ganesh about 11 AM. Then we returned to our hotel to cool off. Later,
Temple after the elephant headed we set out to watch the magnificent view of the temples
Hindu god whose images once against the sunset.
stood at corners of each of the five I think the December/January time would be the best time
terraces. to go because it’s very hot in the summer.
One of the things that brings awe to tourists is the very
Myoe Daung Kyaung
skilled masonry that is prominent throughout Bagan.
Myoe Daung Kyaung or Myo Although the temples of Bagan are mostly constructed
Daung Monastery means the with bricks, you cannot see anything similar to cement. It
‘monastery at the corner of the makes you wonder how these structures are held together.
city’. The main monastery building
I very much recommend getting a good guide because that
in Bagan, with an east-west orienta-
would make things much easier for you. Our guide was very
tion, it is spread over approximately helpful, although his English wasn’t so strong.
15000 sq. ft. Most of its significant
elements are from the pre-colonial There are so many temples that a one-day trip is
Konbaung period while some of impossible. As for us, we took 3 days to tour the temples,
the rooms apparently are from lat- visiting about 6 – 10 a day.
er times. Its glory and what should Myanmar is also well known for Lacquer ware - unique
be a major claim to prominence Burmese handicraft, made from bamboo and a mix of tree
lies in its numerous woodcarvings sap and resin, among other things. Personally, I’m not much
which are also mostly from the late of a fan of these, but it has a great appeal and might make a
Kon-baung period from mid to late very good souvenir.
19th century.
You have to be conscious about what you wear, though.
Showing skin is regarded rude in a number of temples and
Bagan Awaits people wearing sleeveless clothes, or shorts, have been
Despite the unstable political situation of Myanmar and the surprising barred from entry in some places. Also, there is no facility
lack of any other tourist activity, Bagan is still a site that you don’t want that would provide any sort of cover-up robes, so you have
to miss. To quote filmmaker Sophia Pande, “There wasn’t much to do to be prepared.
besides sightseeing, but Bagan was definitely a must see. Even a trip only
to visit these temples is most definitely worth it.”

80 | nature&wildlife www.eticketnepal.com
croc with a pot

The gharial’s slender snout is too fragile to attack bigger animals, but
means death to fish. It is hence not surprising that gharials, one of the
largest crocodilians in the world, are called the fish-eating crocodile or
the long-nosed crocodile.
C
lumps of weed and driftwood float lazily on the murky waters of the Narayani
River when suddenly what looked like a knotted log comes to life and a long and
Words Prita Malla slender snout emerges out of the surface, carrying a thrashing fish between its
Photo Courtesy WWF Nepal sharp toothed jaws. The gharial’s slender snout is too fragile to attack bigger animals, but
means death to fish. It is hence not surprising that gharials, one of the largest crocodilians
in the world, are called fish-eating crocodiles or long-nosed crocodiles. And while we’re
talking about names, gharials are named for the bulbous growth on the tip of the mature
male’s snout which is called a ‘ghara’, after the Indian/Nepali word meaning ‘pot’.

www.eticketnepal.com nature&wildlife | 81
Gharials (Gavialis gangeticus) are found largest. The gharial’s snout is narrow and
usually in the calmer areas of deep, fast- long, with dilations at the end and its nasal
Did you know? moving rivers. As they are not well equipped bones are comparatively short and widely
for movement on land, they only leave separated from the pre-maxillaries.
The gharial’s scientific name, the water to bask and nest on sandbanks.
Gavialis gangeticus is based Their leg musculature is not suited to raise Gharials however aren’t exclusively fish-
on a misspelling of the Hindi the body off the ground or to produce the eaters all their lives. When they are younger,
word ghariyal. “Gavial” is “high-walk” gait. They are only able to gharials feast on a variety of insects and
push its body forward across the ground frogs, and as they mature, transition to fish.
a misspelling of the word or “belly-slide.” However, when in water, Gharials will often use their body to corral
“Gharial” that refers to the the gharials are the most nimble and quick fish against the bank where they can be
ghara - a swelling around the of all the crocodilians. Because their tail is more easily snapped up. There have been
nostrils of mature males used overdeveloped and laterally flat, they have rare accounts where larger gharials have
excellent aquatic navigational skills. attacked larger prey, including mammals.
for communication. As mentioned earlier, despite its immense
The average size of mature gharials is 3.6-4.5 size, its thin and fragile jaws make it
m (12.2-15.5 ft). Typically, adult gharials have physically incapable and impossible to
a dark olive color tone while the young ones consume a large animal. Gharials look
are pale olive with dark brown spots or cross- menacing but attack human beings only if
bands. Their characteristic elongated, narrow provoked for self defense.
snout becomes progressively thinner with
age. The bulbous growth on the tip of the Females reach sexual maturity after they
male’s snout is a cartilaginous protuberance are over ten years old while the males guard
that is used as a vocal resonator with which a harem of several females. The mating
the gharial can produce a loud buzzing period occurs for two months during
noise during social behavior. It also acts as a November, December and may extend to
visual lure for attracting the opposite sex and January. Nesting occurs in March, April
is used to make bubbles, which have been and May; the dry season. The female digs a
associated with their mating rituals! hole in the sand bank and lays around 30 to
50 eggs into it before covering it carefully.
Gharials are best known for their The size of gharial’s egg is the largest for
slender jaws which are lined with many any crocodilian species, weighing 160
interlocking, razor-sharp thin teeth. The grams on average. After 83 to 94 days, the
thin shape gives the snout low resistance eggs hatch and the hatchlings make their
in water, which is suited to fast lateral way to the water unaided by the mother,
snatching movements underwater; these who in all truth couldn’t help even if she
are ideally suited for holding and struggling wanted to because of a mouth full of razor-
with prey such as slippery fish. The gharial sharp teeth. Unlike reptiles such as sea
has 27 to 29 upper and 25 to 26 lower teeth turtles who lay eggs and abandon them
on each side. The front teeth are the to their own means, gharials are to some

82 | nature&wildlife www.eticketnepal.com
extent maternal and protect their young purposes, and males have been targeted for across the country but the number of the
for some time after the hatching until they the aphrodisiac properties associated with reptile has been decreasing in these rivers
learn to fend for themselves. the snout - something people in the know despite the park’s efforts.
call an old wives’ tale. The decline in its
These crocodilians once thrived in all population has been linked to a decline in The Gharial Breeding Centre has wasted
the major river systems of the Indian fish catches and receding water levels in no effort in conserving the gharial. Its eggs
subcontinent. Today their distribution is big rivers. Moreover, the crocodiles that are searched for in riverbanks, and brought
limited to 2% of their former range; less enter Indian territories cannot return due to the centre for incubating safely under
than 200 breeding adults. The gharial is to the presence of dams. heating lamps to maintain an appropriate
now considered to be confined within the temperature. After about three months, the
river systems of the Brahmaputra (India and Experts believe that the water quality of baby gharials break their leathery eggshells
Bhutan), the Indus (Pakistan), the Ganges Nepalese rivers is better suited for the to start a new life. They remain in the pools
(India), and the Mahanadi (India), with small gharial’s survival. Thus environmentalists of the centre until they reach the age of four
populations in the Kaladan and the Irrawady are focusing intently on its conservation after which they are released into the wild.
in Myanmar. In Nepal small populations are efforts in Nepal. Their efforts with the
present and slowly recovering in tributaries cooperation of several governments have Gharials may not be what you would call
of the Ganges, such as the Narayani-Rapti led to some reduction in the threat of adorable or beautiful but there is certain
river system in Chitwan National Park and extinction. There have been some small- elegance to their streamlined body and
the Karnali-Babai river system in Bardia scale projects to breed and rehabilitate armored hide, and efficiency in its hunting
National Park. gharials in Nepal’s Chitwan National Park. techniques that you can’t ignore. Gharials
A short walk from the park HQ will lead are an essential part of the river ecosystem
The major threat at present is habitat loss due one to the “Gharial Breeding Centre” and if we do nothing to save this dying
to human encroachment, sand mining and which is home to the “Marsh Mugger” species, we will not only lose a magnificent
disruption of its population through fishing and a number of turtles. Presently, there species but bring chaos to an intricate
and hunting activities along with a rise in are as many as 440 crocodiles in Chitwan balance in the biosphere.
pollution. Gharial eggs are occasionally National Park. The park said it has so far
collected by local people for medicinal released 708 crocodiles in different rivers
Kingdom : Animalia
Scientific Name : Gavialis gangeticus
Class : Sauropsida
Order : Crocodilia
Family : Gavialidae
Genus : Gavialis
Species : G. gangeticus
Type: Reptile
Diet: Carnivore
Average lifespan in the wild: 40 to 60
Years Size: 12.25 to 15.5 ft (3.6 to 4.5 m)
Weight: 2,200 lbs (977 kg)
Dentition Code: 5 pre-maxillary; 23-24
maxillary; 25-26 mandibular
Total no. of teeth = 106-110
Protection status: Critically Endangered


8484 | PHOTOLOGUE www.eticketnepal.com
a PHOTOGRAPHic Namo Buddha is considered “…one of the unsurpassed, supreme

sacred sites known as the three stupas in Nepal…” and is also
journey to
Namo
known as Tagmo Lüjin or “the place where the future Buddha
sacrificed his body to a tigress”. The site is regarded by Buddhists
as the place where the Buddha, at the time still on a path of
learning, offered his own body without regret to a tigress suffering
from such great hunger that she would have eaten her own cubs.
The then prince thus died and was reborn in the Tushita realm
Buddha
of the gods. Searching for the reason to his death, the Buddha
chanced upon his parents who were mourning his death. The
Buddha assured them that his death was for a noble cause.
Somewhat assured, in his loving memory, his grieving parents
made a casket of seven precious jewels, put his bones inside and
buried it. Above this, they erected a stupa - which we know today
as the Namo Buddha stupa.
Photos Sudhir Bhandari Words Utsav Shakya
{ The monastery itself is quite beautiful, nestled amidst greenery, a

far cry from the hustle and bustle of the city.
{
www.eticketnepal.com photologue | 85
85
The ancient site is popular

amongst Buddhists. It is
{ however also a recreational

spot for anyone who likes
a good hike, some fresh
{
air and does not mind a
religious spot.
{ {
Devotees can light oil lamps
here in the memory of loved
ones or just as a show of
respect to the Buddha.
The Namo Buddha stupa
{ erected in memory of the

prince who died to feed a
hungry tigress.
{

8686 | photologue www.eticketnepal.com
{ {
Quite touching and with a
rather artsy look, is a wall
where people can put up
pictures of their loved ones.
The simple stupa has
{ {
an aura of peace and
tranquility. Perfect for a
day’s getaway with the
family or even friends.

www.eticketnepal.com photologue | 87
87
{ {
The site is also rapidly
gaining popularity amongst
foreign tourists.
{ {
The site recently
went through a small
restoration. It not shines
brighly in the summer sun.
Getting there:
A pleasant fairly easy all-day walk of about 3 hours south of Dhulikhel, will take you to
Namobuddha. It takes about one hour to reach Dhulikhel in a taxi or private car, or two
and a half to three hours by cycling. Local buses are also easily available. Namobuddha is
situated at a distance of about 62 kilometers from Kathmandu. Taxis and private vehicles
will get one easily up to the parking area. But you will have to walk 10 minutes from the
parking to reach the stupa.
You can then walk back or take a circular route back. You can also walk to Panauti,
another 1½ hours away and then get a bus back to Dhulikhel or Kathmandu via Banepa.
{ The site of the monastery at Namo Buddha also offers an idyllic

view of the valley. Shown here are the hills and the valley towards
the north from the monastery.
{

ataleofvagabond
Around the world

at his own pace

www.eticketnepal.com atALEOFVAGABOND | 89
What is your prime profession? enjoy. My father was in the navy and got
What motivated you towards travel to visit many places in the world and I Often we cannot
photography?
I’ve spent the last 35 years of my life
longed to see these wonderful places
as well.
have conversations
working on computer networks for the as most do not know
Canadian government. I even worked as What are the rules you abide by
a photographer for a newspaper. Once I while traveling?
the language but it is
retired, I decided to pursue photography Traveling is something that has to be a smile, a handshake,
seriously. I have always loved done with a lot of care and planning.
photography as it is a great tool to relive Tourists are the number one target at a look or a gesture
memories. So I thought of incorporating
traveling with this interest.
many places so I am always cautious. I
have not had a bad experience yet but
that just says - we
have been on tours where other people are the same and
Why do you like to travel? Who has were pick-pocketed and backpacks cut
inspired you to travel? with razor knives. I never carry a wallet
that we care.
I have always loved history so when or keep all my money in one place; I
I was given the chance to travel to have shirts, vests and coats that all 2. Tibet – for the religious sites, the
see the archaeological wonders of have inside pockets. I carry just enough people and the mountains
the world I jumped on it. Trying to cash for a day and leave the rest of the 3. Abu Simbel in Egypt – for being an
capture pictures that no one else has money at the hotel. awesome monument
is an impossible task but that is what 4. Petra in Jordan – for being so large
has kept me going. I have found out What are your personal natural or and so mysterious
that people basically are the same manmade seven wonders? 5. Angkor Wat in Cambodia – for the
everywhere even with different cultures My top seven wonders might be carvings and buildings which are
and religions, but they all love their quite biased as sometimes it is the simply wonderful
families and want to have a good life. experience and not the place that makes 6. Varanasi in India – for the people
Amazing people and different cultures is it special to me. and the atmosphere which is really
what makes traveling such an amazing 1. Machu Picchu in Peru – for its location enchanting
experience that I wish everyone could on a mountain in a rain forest 7. Tikal in Guatemala – for being a lost
city
What are your travel pleasures?

What do you do while travelling
which you wouldn’t do or get at
home?
The greatest pleasure when I travel is
meeting new people. Often we cannot
have conversations as most do not
know the language but it is a smile, a
handshake, a look or a gesture that just
says - we are the same and that we
care. It is also great to see famous sites
like the pyramids, Machu Picchu, Angkor
Wat and the Great Wall of China amongst
Abu Simbel, Egypt others. They are all amazing places to
visit. I know it’s a cliché but what I like
best about travelling is that I get to see
PETRA, JORDAN different landscapes, meet new people,
try different cuisines and see wonderful
places.
What is the biggest reward for a

traveler/photographer?
The biggest reward for me would be to
publish a book with the pictures I have
taken. I get e-mails from people saying
that they travel through my eyes. It is a
great feeling when they enjoy my work.
It also feels great when watching a
Machu Picchu, Peru TIMES MAY - JUN 2010

90 | atALEOFVAGABOND www.eticketnepal.com
Varanasi, India
television show about places you have

been to and can actually relate to the
story.
Tikal, Guatemala
What have you learned about
yourself through your travels?
I think the one thing I have found out
about myself while traveling is that I am year. Varanasi has so much to offer and
language is not a problem there either,
When in a new place
very lucky to have what I have. So much
of the world has so little in comparison which is also one of my concerns as travel with a smile,
to what we have and yet these people I don’t know any other language other
have learnt of ways to be happy. I don’t than English (laughs). be tolerant of other
think a day goes by when I don’t think people, show respect
about how lucky I am. Any favorite experiences you want to
share with us? and don’t worry
What are your thoughts about My group and I were walking through
the Fez Medina (Fez, Morocco) and I
about all the small
Nepal?
Nepal is a wonderful country and I have was lagging behind taking pictures. things that might go
heard nothing but praises from my When I tried to catch up with my group
friends. I am looking forward to my visit. they were nowhere to be seen. I was wrong.
horrendously lost. People say, “If you
What’s the most dangerous place go into the Medina a young man without
you’ve been to? Any interesting a guide, you will come out an old man”. can be heavy and unnecessary. I use a
incidents that you would like to It is a mindboggling labyrinth. I ran Nikon D300 and only travel with my 18-
share? around fruitlessly for a while before a 200mm VR lens as it has a great range
I can honestly say that I never feel afraid man pointed down a street indicating and fits almost all of the situations. In
to venture off to new places. I went for the correct path. I gave him a small my last two trips, I started taking my
a walk alone in Cairo to an area which Canadian flag pin, which I always carry, SB-800 flash. I store all my pictures on
felt a bit intimidating. I was concerned in gratitude and finally caught up with an Archos 5, 120GB hard drive until I
that since I looked the typical tourist I the group. As we continued our journey get home and it takes up minimal space.
felt I was a sure target but to my relief we were hounded by people trying to Always take enough memory to store
everyone who saw me waved and said sell us things. We had been walking the picture; you pay thousands for the
“Welcome to Egypt”. about 20 minutes when a man started trip so why not spend a few dollars
tapping me on the shoulder. I just kept more on storage. All my chargers,
Funny how the mind works; I was on a saying no but he continued. When I camera, lens, hard drive, extra batteries,
flight back from Egypt on Egypt Air. The finally looked up exasperated, the man memory cards fit in a Lowpro Slingshot
crew was great and the trip was going showed me the pin I’d given him and he 200. However I have just purchased
well but soon I noticed that the staff gave me a key chain. It was the Hand a new bag, a Lowpro Fastpack 350 as
was not in their uniforms. Now this was of Fatima, referring to Fatima Zahra, many airlines are now restricting people
the first day of Ramadan and I hoped Prophet Muhammad’s daughter. It is to one carry-on bag. This has room for
they were not planning something like a sort of “protection of the hand” or all my photography things as well as a
9/11. But actually there were two crews “the hand of God“. It’s a very treasured change of clothes.
for long flights like this and they were possession of mine. When in a new place travel with a
changing crews at that time. smile, be tolerant of other people, show
Any tips for aspiring travelers/ respect and don’t worry about all the
Which foreign city would you most photographers? small things that might go wrong. Do
like to live in for a year? To anyone who wants to travel and get this and you will meet lots of wonderful
Of all the places I have visited I would good pictures, first of all, know your people, be treated well and get lots of
like to live in Varanasi in India for a camera. Travel light. Taking many lenses great pictures.
MAY - JUN 2010 TIMES For unbelievable offer, Log in to


92 | perfecttaKeAWAYS www.eticketnepal.com
Thangka
Picture-Perfect:
Painting a Perfect Picture
Words Prasanna Pandey Photos Suresh Maharjan

www.eticketnepal.com perfecttakeaways | 93
For centuries, Nepal has and continues to have, an amazing ability

to preserve and nurture culture and traditions of a variety of different
religions and spiritual practices. Religion is openly practiced and
uniformly tolerated. It shapes the way of life of Nepali people exemplified
in innumerable festivities and celebrations that punctuate the banality of
everyday existence. Over the ages this intermingling of spiritual ideas has
helped its people to understand even the most esoteric ideals and transmit
Chenrezig is another
them using a variety of instruments such as books, scrolls, sculptures, name of Avalokiteśvara,
a Bodhisattva who
paintings, prayer flags, music and other religious objects. A Thangka is one embodies compassion of
all Buddhas.
such instrument used in visualization practices of Buddhist philosophy.
Buddhism stresses on understanding. Humans are the The origin of the practice of painting thangkas can be
only beings who can become knowledgeable about traced to the days of Shakyamuni Buddha (Siddhartha
the nature of their consciousness. But it is grossly in- Gautama) (563-483 BC). In that time there were two
adequate to just become knowledgeable about one- rulers Utatyana and Bimbisara in neighbouring states
self without the knowledge of Brahman or cosmic who were also close friends and were in a habit of
consciousness. In this process of contemplation, a exchanging gifts. Once, in return of a priceless gem
Tapaswi acquires the ability to distinguish between from Utatyana, Bimbisara thought of giving a paint-
positive thoughts and negative thoughts and willfully ing of Buddha on cloth to Utatyana. Bimbisara sum-
acts to meditate only upon the positive and fruitful moned master painters and took consent of Buddha Yamāntaka is
seen as a wrathful
ones. Once he starts asking the right questions, a pro- to have his portrait. However, when the artists sat manifestation of
cess of transformation initiates and the thinker can down to paint his image, they were so overwhelmed Mañjuśrī, the Buddha of
rise above the delights of the five senses and everyday by the luminosity and majesty of the enlightened one wisdom, and in other
experiences. Nothing in the material world can both- that they could not complete their assignment. Bud- contexts functions as
a dharmapala.
er him in this quest for realization. Once he achieves dha suggested that they draw a likeness of his form
this realization he would be called a Bodhisattva. by looking at his reflection in still water. This water
image of the saint became the first thangka.
A Bodhisattva who has attained enlightenment
shows no feelings and acts only for the benefit and As Buddhism spread, several schools specialized in the
the service of the mankind who are mostly confused painting of thangkas with their own variations upon a
and susceptible to sinister energies of lust, anger and common theme and three prominent styles or schools
violence. In past ages, such enlightened beings wrote emerged - namely Mensar, Menri and Karma Gadri.
down shastras (religious text) for the benefit of man- These three styles influenced Buddhist art as it spread
kind that gave a pictorial representation on a variety further into India, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Myanmar and
White Tara is a
of religious subjects. These depictions were sketched Tibet through traveling monks as they could be eas- Bodhisattva known for
on a flat surface by master painters and regarded as ily rolled up and transported between monasteries. compassion, long life,
pictorial scrolls. They were revered by Buddhists as Most notably, in the seventh century, King Srongtsen healing and serenity.
knowledge passed down from enlightened beings for Gampo (617-698) of Tibet married Princess Bhrikuti
everyone’s benefit. They called these representations (Thritsun) the daughter of King Amshuverma of Ne-
thangkas and these were venerated and used in ritual pal who went to Tibet bearing several gifts along with
visualization and worship in different parts of the Ori- the thangka paintings and this proved instrumental in
ent as Buddhism gained popularity. the introduction and nurturing of the art form there.
Over time numerous schools emerged that special-
A thangka is considered to initiate an onlooker to ask ized in the ritual of this art as its fame spread further
questions. If he is asking the right questions, then he into China, Japan and other countries by the Pacific
will be able to identify the answers within it. A passive Ocean and eventually all over the world.
picture thus designed will initiate a dynamic thought The wheel of life
process that would guide him in the correct path of The name thangka comes from two Tibetan words or Bhavachakra is a
complex symbolic repre-
understanding and he will be able to ask further rel- ‘Thang’ and ‘Ku’. ‘Thang’ means flat and implies that
sentation of Samsāra in
evant questions to enrich his experience on this quest the painting has to be created on a flat surface. ‘Ku’ the form of a circle.
for realization and enlightenment. stands for body or form. Contemporary thangkas are

94 | perfecttakeaways www.eticketnepal.com
Dakini is a tantric
deity described as a
female embodiment of
enlightened energy.
Green Tara is known

as the Buddha of
enlightened activity.
Tsongkhapa
(1357–1419), whose
name means ‘The Man
from Onion Valley’,
was a famous teacher
of Tibetan Buddhism.
generally drawn on cotton canvas but silk, rice paper ger positions), instruments they are holding and their
(Nepali Kagaj) are also popular mediums. Natural expressions according to the character the masters are
colours are generally used derived from stones, veg- depicting. An extensive knowledge of Buddhist phi-
etables, sand, coral, agate, sapphire, pearl and gold. losophy and mathematical proportions is required of
Modern synthetic dyes are also used. Gold and silver such a task that can only be acquired through years of
are primarily used for decorative purposes. dedicated practice. The sketches of these designs are
made on a paper and transferred to the canvas later or
The process of creation of a thangka begins in work- they are made directly onto the canvas.
shops where a small number of apprentices are guided
Kalachakra by an experienced master thangka painter. The canvas The artistic freedom of the painter is limited to colour
Mandala depicts the is prepared by applying glue in layers to prevent the combinations and he or she begins by painting the
wheel or cycle of time.
soaking up, fading and chipping off of colour and are larger and the flatter areas stressing on the subtle har-
subsequently polished. The design follows old icono- mony of colour at the end result. Each colour has
graphic templates that allow for only small variations. it own psychological meaning in a particular thang-
Creation of new designs are restricted to masters but ka design such as calm, passion and pride amongst
they also have to follow the scriptural description others. After painting the larger areas the paint is al-
and storyline and can’t modify certain features in the lowed to dry thoroughly. All subsequent steps are car-
painting such as a deity’s colour, posture, mudra (fin- ried out by trained and experienced painters – after

www.eticketnepal.com perfecttakeaways | 95
For good medium and large-sized in the world in Nepal. The art is specialized among
several indigenous Buddhist communities such as
qualities, one should be willing Gurungs, Tamangs, Lamas, Manageys and Newars.
Huge thangkas are found in numerous Buddhist
to spend about $500 or more. monasteries of Nepal as well as in Buddhist schools,
temples and stupas as well as shops.
The best quality thangkas start Special thangkas of the Newari community are
at $1,000. known as Pauwas (Paubhas) and they are considered
to be of two types - Palas and Mandalas. Palas are
Himalaya God – A
god who lives in Mt.
filling in the more delicate designs shading, shadow- artwork depicting deities or a combination of deities Everest
ing and gradations are applied which give the thangka (who maybe Budhhas, Bodhisattvas, Masters, Protec-
a three dimensional look. The last and perhaps the tors and Guardians). Mandalas appear as thangkas
most important step is the painting of the face and in all forms of Buddhist art and have mystical and
eyes of the deities and this process is carried out by ritual significance in Hinduism. They are geometric
the master painter himself as it is a direct reflection patterns, plans or charts which represent the cosmos
of the quality of the painting. In older days, the final symbolically and metaphysically or they may be en-
step was accompanied by a religious ritual called ‘eye visaged as ‘sacred space or abode of fully realized be-
opening’ and was thought to bring the thangka paintings.’ Commenting at a more esoteric level – it allows
ing to life. the meditating person to access deeper levels of the Medical Thangka
subconscious, assisting him to experience a mystical depicts the internal
After the completion of the painting it is mounted on sense of oneness with the ultimate unity from which organization of
the cosmos arises. By visualizing the ‘pure Buddha physical human body.
a frame or an elaborate silk brocade to be put on dis-
play. The creation of a thangka painting is a painstak- land’ in the Mandala, one learns to understand that
ingly long process that can take several long months particular experience itself as pure and the abode of
to culminate. Small thangkas of an acceptable quality enlightenment and free from the ever changing illu-
are available starting at $100. For good medium and sion of Maya. As a meditation on impermanence (a
large-sized qualities, one should be willing to spend central teaching of Buddhism), after days or weeks of
about $500 or more. The best quality thangkas start creating the intricate pattern of a sand mandala, the
at $1,000. Such thangkas are still made but they are sand is brushed together and placed in a body of run-
comparatively difficult to find as the market for them ning water to spread the blessings of the mandala.
is rather small. Compared with the artistic ability,
dexterity, concentration, patience and hard work that Thangkas are generally used for worship, medita- Mahakala is a
go into a painting, it is safe to say that such a price tag tion and decoration. Entire walls of monasteries are dharmapala (a type
of wrathful deity
is still inadequate. covered with huge thangka paintings from times im- who is protector of
memorial. Thangkas have a great religious as well as dharma) in Vajrayana
In Nepal, one can generally find four different kinds artistic significance and for this reason they are not Buddhism.
of Thangka paintings namely Color thangka (consist- only treasured but also revered by the Buddhist com-
ing of Menri, Mensar and Karma Gadri), Nharti (gold munity. Although thangkas create employment by Available at:
and other colours in a black background), Mharti giving underprivileged communities of even the re-
(gold and other colours in a red background) and motest corner of the Himalayas something to do and There are lots of Thangka
Showrooms around
Sherti (pure gold thangka along with other colours). also nurture social awareness of Buddhist philosophy the Kathmandu Valley.
The nature of a thangka depends on what a patron and values, the government of Nepal has given little, Thamel, a touristic hub of
wishes to use the painting for. It may portray peace- if no support, to these indigenous communities and Kathmandu is more popular
for Thangkas. Besides,
ful or wrathful deities, meditational deities, Buddhas, has left them to fare on their own. Thangkas and the Bouddha and Patan also
Bodhisattvas, Dharma Protectors or saints and their workforce who create them need to be supported by provide wide range of
lives. the state as well as by admirers of their art. They need Thangkas.
all our encouragement and support so that they can
Since Nepal boasts of the origin of Buddhism and cre- continue to create a form of art that has been made
ation and worshipping of this ancient ritualistic art, famous the world over.
one can find the highest number of thangka painters
Special Thanks to Unique Tibetan Traditional Thangka Art Family for ourstanding their support.

96 festivalwatch www.eticketnepal.com
Buddha
Jayanti
Words: Swoyam Joshi | Photos: Rocky Prajapati
Throughout its history, Nepal has been prince urged his charioteer to take him Celebration and
home to many religions and ethnic groups. outside the palace on a city tour. He was Rituals
People from all walks of life celebrate re- greatly saddened to see the scenes of an old
ligious holidays all year round. Buddha person, a diseased man and a corpse. The Buddhists and Hindus in Nepal mark Bud-
Purnima or Buddha Jayanti, celebrated realization that there was more to life than dha Jayanti with particular reverence and
on the full moon day in May, is one of the the mere luxury that was offered to him led enthusiasm. The festival is celebrated na-
most popular festivals in the Nepalese reli- him to abandon his family, his palace and tionwide in places of special importance
gious calendar. The festival is celebrated to all the materialistic possessions in search like Bouddhanath, Swoyambhunath,
commemorate three major events in Bud- of enlightenment and the true meaning of Lumbini and numerous other sites. The
dha’s life- his birth as Prince Siddhartha life. ancient stupas of Bouddhanath and Swoy-
Gautam, his spiritual enlightenment at ambhunath in the Kathmandu valley are
the age of 35, and finally the attainment of After wandering, searching and medi- considered the most sacred. The stupas
nirvana at the age of 80, in 543 B.C. tating for years Siddhartha Gautam finally are decorated with colorful prayer flags,
attained enlightenment and henceforth butter lamps, and electric lights and are
The practice of Buddhism in Nepal became known as Gautam Buddha or “the painted with symbolic lotus petals from
can be traced back to roughly 2500 years enlightened one”. He is believed to have yellow saffron dye. People walk around the
ago when the young prince was born in discovered the Four Noble Truth – suffer- stupas spinning prayer wheels. The day is
Lumbini, in southern Nepal in 623 B.C. ing is the inherent part of existence, igno- marked with prayer sessions, and sermons
Legend has it that after the prince was rance is the root cause of suffering, symp- about the life of Gautam Buddha. Monks
born a hermit told his father, king Sudho- toms of ignorance being attachment and perform a continuous recital of Buddhist
dana that the boy would either become a craving, which can be ceased by following scriptures, conduct group meditation, and
great ruler or a monk. Afraid that young the Noble Eightfold Path (right under- worship in front of the statue of Buddha
Siddhartha would leave, the king pro- standing, right thought, right speech, right in monasteries across the country. Pilgrims
vided everything he could want or need. action, right livelihood, right effort, right bathe, gather for worship, give alms to
Having led a very sheltered life within the mindfulness, right concentration). He monks, and share kheer, a special delicacy
confines of the royal palace till the age of spent the rest of his life teaching and guid- made with rice, milk and sugar. Birds are
29, the young prince was convinced that ing thousands of followers leaving them freed and fruits and clothes are distributed
the world was a peaceful place, and was with simple instructions about the path to among the poor to signify Buddha’ preach-
completely unaware of the tragedies and freedom from suffering, and passed away at ing of peace and non-violence. On this
miseries of life. One day the ever-curious the age of 80. day Buddhists reaffirm their faith in the

www.eticketnepal.com festivalwatch | 97
five principles of panchsheel - not to take community of the Kathmandu valley also from Kathmandu, near Lumbini. Lumbini,
life, not to steal, not to lie, not to consume marks this day with worship, food and which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
liquor or any intoxicants and not to com- prayers. The Newars who are also credited and is famous for architectural and natural
mit adultery. with much of construction of the artisti- beauty, is a major attraction for devotees in
cally beautiful cities of Kathmandu, Patan search of divine feelings of spirituality and
There are various ethnic groups across and Bhaktapur, follow both Hinduism and holiness. In recent years a number of mon-
Nepal who celebrate this festival with great Buddhism. Bajracharyas and Shakyas per- asteries have been built in and around the
reverence. Kathmandu city in particular, form priestly duties and organize sermons Kathmandu valley where devotees gather
with its ever growing population, has seen by lighting oil lamps at temples and stu- and worship. Another place of interest is
cultural amalgamation over the years and pas. Most Newars belong to a guthi, a lo- the Sankhu Vajrayogini temple, some 18
can be regarded as the country’s “cultural cal governing body that organizes religious km northeast of Kathmandu. The temple
museum”. Magars, Gurungs, Thakalis, sermons and gatherings, and follows a set premise also houses a stupa believed to be
Sherpas, Newars and a notable number of of rules for the benefit of the community. a thousand years old and is worshipped by
Brahmins and Chettris celebrate Buddha Some of them also observe asthashil – fast- both Hindus and Buddhists.
Jayanti with great devotion too. Gurungs ing and eating strictly vegetarian items
and Magars, primarily from the western before noon and participate in procession The importance of Buddha Jayanti to
and central hills of the country usually across town, while others give alms and Nepalese people is such that even those
prepare traditional dishes, organize get- feed the poor to honor departed souls. who do not celebrate this festival are awe-
togethers and wish each other prosperity Most Buddhists fly five-colored prayer flags struck by the wholeheartedness of those
and happiness. They also entertain with in their houses and local shrines. who do. It will not be too much of an ex-
cultural dances like shorati at monasteries aggeration to say that Buddha Jayanti is a
and local shrines. Another form of relax- Places of Interest day full of joy and devotion, and a day to
ation is the rodhi dancing and singing - ro be grateful to the Prince who abandoned
meaning to sleep and dhi meaning house). In Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur his family, kingdom and the royal throne
The Rai people - a group that mostly in- –the cities in the valley images and stat- to bring peace to the world. Every year the
habits the central hills celebrate this day as ues of Buddha are carried through street festival commands increasing reverence
the harvest day and worship mother earth. processions, sometime placing them atop among Nepalese people for it has found
The priests of this group also perform ritu- elephants. The festival is also celebrated in an easy blend with Hinduism and is cel-
als to worship their ancestors. The Newar Kapilvastu, a historic town some 300 km ebrated as a philosophy of life.
Other festivals on the months of May and June

Rato Matsyendranath Jatra | Sita Jayanti | Narsingha Jatra | Ubhouli | Sithi Nakha | Kumar Yatra
For more details on these festivals, visit www.traveltimes-mag.com/festivals

98 reeltravel www.eticketnepal.com
The diverse and

unifying package
www.kimff.org of Travelling Film
South Asia 2010
TFSA is a tradition which started with the first Film South Asia festival, held in
September 1997. After each FSA festival, about a dozen films are selected to tour
regionally and globally. The 12 touring documentaries of Travelling Film South Asia
2010 (TFSA ‘10) are outstanding examples of non-fiction productions of the last two
Sherpas - Die Wahren Helden Ah Everest years from this part of Asia. They have been selected from the 35 documentaries
screened in the competitive section of Film South Asia ‘09, the ‘mother festival’, held
(Sherpas - The True Heroes of Mount Everest) in Kathmandu in September 2009. The selection has been carried out in consulta-
tion with FSA ‘09’s three-member jury, chaired by Chennai-based cultural critic
Sadanand Menon.
Original Language:
Nepalese, Swiss, German, English
The twelve films of TFSA ‘10
Direction:
Frank Senn, Hari Thapa, Otto C.
Honneger
Production:
Otto C. Honneger, Swiss National
Television
Duration: Afghan Girls Can Kick (50’) Mayomi (50’)

93 mins Afghanistan, 2007, Dir - Bahareh Hosseini Sri Lanka, 2008, dir – Carol Salter
The girls do kick well. Post-tsunami, she struggles for her family.
This film shows the work, the hardship and

s y n o p s i s
the life of the Sherpas at the Mount Everest.

With their eyes we follow the expedition of the Swiss mountain guide Kari Kobler
and his European climbers to the highest mountain of the world. For the first
time this film shows the stories of the Sherpas, their feelings and fears on the The Battle for Pakistan (40’) The Way of the Road (60’)
climb of Mount Everest. They tell us bluntly, what it means for them to work for Pakistan, 2009, dir – Maheen Zia Nepal, 2009, dir – Ben Campbell & Cosmo Campbell
Western clients, to act as their ladders to the top of the world. We experience their Do extremism and madrassas converge? The new Nepal-Tibet road and the locals.
successes but also tragedy when the expedition loses a member. The film shows
the happinness of summitting the Everest as well as tragedy of losing friend.
The film received the best award in International Competition at 7th Kathmandu
International Mountain Film Festival (KIMFF) in2009.
In Search of the Riyal (86’) The Promised Land (90’)

Himalaya, - Le Chemin Du Ciel Nepal, 2009, dir – Kesang Tseten
Deep study of Nepali migrants in the Gulf.
Bangladesh, 2008, dir – Tanvir Mokammel
Stigma still haunts Biharis in Dhaka.
(Himalaya, A Path To The Sky)
Original Language:
Zanskari
Direction:
Marianne Chaud
Production: Come to My Country: Journeys with Out of Thin Air (50’)

ZED
Kabir and Friends (98’) India, 2009, dir – Samreen Farooqui & Sha-
Duration: India, 2008, dir – Shabnam Virmani bani Hassanwalia
Unlikely bonds in quest for Kabir’s ‘country’. The high energy of Ladaki cinema.
52 mins
Kenrap is eight years old. He is a Buddhist monk and lives in the Phukthal
s y n o p s i s
monastery on the peaks of the Himalayan mountains of Zanskar. He chose his life
away from his family, when he was five. He remembered he was the reincarnation
of a 68 year-old monk, and then decided to leave his family and return to the
monastery where he belonged.
Filmed from the point of view of a subjective camera by a young ethnologist,

Children of God (89’) Saamam (The Music) (42’)
Nepal, 2008, dir – Yi Seung-jun India, 2009, dir – Ramachandran K
Path to the Sky follows this attaching little The kids of the Aryaghat cremation grounds. Homage to Carnatic music and M D Ramanathan.
monk with whom we share moments

of intimacy, and gives us a rare glance at
Buddhist monastic life.
The film received third best award at Kathmandu International Mountain Film
Festival (KIMFF) 2009.
The Last Rites (17’) The Salt Stories (84’)
Bangladesh, 2008, dir – Yasmine Kabir India, 2008, dir – Lalit Vachani
Where the ships go to die. Following Gandhi’s salt march in our time.


100 | events&tips www.eticketnepal.com
Maia Ruth Lee’s The Traveller’-

The Recollections of the Aba Ke Garne
Lonesome Traveller The Summer Writing Workshop for Fiction
When: 16th May -3rd June
Where: Siddhartha Art Gallery, Babar Mahal When:6th June-19th June-2010 (3 hour meetings 3
Revisited, Kathmandu times weekly)
Description: The exhibition is an Where: Bookworm (Jhamsikhel, Lalitpur)
autobiographical interpretation of what it is to be Description: The workshop is emphasizing more
a traveller, metaphorically, with different identities on creating solutions form young emerging writers
which is to be inaugurated by His Excellency of Nepal. Facilitated by the graduates from Columbia
Hong Sungmog, Korean Ambassador to Nepal. University Muna Gurung and Tsering Lama.
Contact:4218048 Contact: aba.ke.garne@gmail.com, www.sattya.org
Jeevika-Asia Livelihood KIMFF 2010 Submission

Documentary Festival When: 1st April-15th August-2010
Call for Entries (DEAdline): 30th June, 2010 Where: Himal Association (a non for profit
Festival: 27-29 August 2010 NEPAL INTERNATIONAL INDIGENOUS organization), Patandhoka, Lalitpur
Where: India Habitat Centre, New Delhi Description: The 8th edition of KIMFF is
Description: Organized by the Centre for
FILM FESTIVAL (NIIFF) 2010 supposed to happen from 9-12 Dec 2010 and
When: 25th June- 27th June-2010
Civil Society, it aims at capturing the livelihood the submission will start from the early April.
Where: Sabha Griha and NTB Hall
challenges faced by the rural and urban poor, The detailed information on entries guidelines is
Description: With festival’s screenings, panel
identifying and bringing to light policies and available at www.kimff.org
discussions, workshops and cultural events reflecting
social, religious and cultural practices which Contact: +977 1 5542544,
the diversity of the world’s Indigenous nations, and
prevent people from earning an honest living. It kimff@himalassociation.org
illustrate the vitality and excellence of our culture
invites documentaries focusing on individual and
and indigenous spirit. IFA requests filmmakers and
community livelihoods in Asia. The competition
technocrats the world over to participate in this
is open to professional, amateur and student
festival to showcase films and other innovation in film, To enlist your events in this section,
documentary makers of all nationalities.
video and new media. mail us your details at
Contact: jeevika@ccs.in, www.jeevika.org,
Contact: www.ifanepal.org.np, 4102577 events@traveltimes-mag.com
+91 11 2653 7456 , +91 98 9930 7456
MAY - JUN 2010 TIMES For unbelievable offers, Log in to



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