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http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?

id=2467
http://www.nisearch.com/effect-of-yarn-on-fabric-properties/1/
Conclusions:

The good quality of the Denim fabric is a result of weft plied yarn structure. In fact, the
different types of plied yarns and their properties have several effects on the Denim fabric
properties.

The major differences between the Denim fabrics are the linear density of weft plied
yarns and their types. The Denim fabric made of weft ring plied yarns have the most
important properties than the other types of fabric, this is due to the used of ring plied
yarns which have an improvement of mechanical properties. The hybrid plied yarns (weft
Yd=80 tex and 100 tex) give a more important Denim fabrics elongation than the Open
End plied yarns. The abrasion resistance of weft hybrid plied yarns fabrics were very
important than the others fabrics. Tear resistance and breaking strength of Denim fabrics
made of ring and hybrid plied yarns were very close.

Denim Finishing – Fabric Processing


Principles For Higher Quality And
Profits
October 4th, 2010 by Harry Mercer | Filed under Manufacturing Process.

This is a guest post by Harry Mercer. This is a part of the presentation that he made in
the denim seminar held recently at Mexico . It gives various tips about getting better
quality denim fabrics by taking care of parameters at finishing stage.

Why Is Finishing Quality Critical?


Denim finishing is critical to profits in that customers who pay the highest prices are very
demanding with regard to shrinkage differences between and within fabric rolls. These
customers will accept fabric that is with 0-4% shrinkage, but with no more than 0.5%
difference in one shipment.
Challenges In Denim Fabric Finishing
• Control of shrinkage between fabric rolls and within rolls is more difficult than
with other fabrics.
• The heavy weight, twill denim construction is dimensionally unstable after
weaving.
• Denim has high shrinkage after weaving, which requires very high
compression(12-15%) at Sanforizing which can be difficult .

Why Fabric Shrinks ?

• Tension that is applied to cotton yarns in weaving results in yarns being stretched
beyond their “natural length”.
• When the denim garment is washed, water and agitation relax the yarns and they
are returned to their minimal length.
• Variations in tension at weaving produce variations in fabric shrinkage.

Denim Finishing Process


• In basic denim finishing, fabric arrives from weaving directly, without de-sizing,
and is brushed to remove contamination, singed with flame to make the fabric
smoother by reducing hairiness, padded with a simple recipe, passed over a pair
of skew rolls to reduce fabric torque which causes skew movement and then
dried.

Finishing Recipes
The basic objectives for a denim recipe are:

• Provide lubrication for quality Sanforizing - Improve stability in garment cutting


by the application of a stiffening agent.
• Including a sewing lubricant to save the customer money with sewing needles and
to reduce damage from needle burn.

Sanforizing Lubricant

• The Sanforizer mechanically pushes weft yarns together, which reduces


shrinkage.
• This mechanical shrinkage requires a high degree of friction between the rubber
belt and the denim.
• A Sanforizing lubricant is necessary for the shrinkage to be consistent.

2. Sewing Lubricants
• During the garment forming, the needles used for sewing become hot because of
friction.
• This heat damages the needle and can also produce holes in the garments.
• A sewing lubricant reduces needle costs and results in better garment quality.
• The garment cutting is also improved.

Stiffening Agents
• Also known as “hand-builders”, these are necessary to stabilize the fabric during
fabric cutting to avoid “snapback”.
• Snapback occurs when the weft yarns are stretched during cutting, then as the
cutting blade moves up, the garment panel shrinks to a width smaller than
planned, which produces a distorted garment.

Finishing Chemicals
• A non-ionic, fatty-acid softener based on stearic acid produces the best
Sanforizing (8 grams of 100% softener per kilogram of fabric)
• Polyethylene-based sewing lubricants are best. ( 2 grams of 100% per kilogram)
• 40 or 90 fluidity tapioca starch is the best hand-builder used for denim.

Finishing Procedure
• Basic denim finishing chemicals should provide improved fabric surface effects
for Sanforizing, cutting and sewing.
• The finishing chemicals should not penetrate into the fabric, so no heat is required
and no wetting agent is necessary.
• For uniformity of chemical application, a wet pick-up of at least 70% should be
used.

Sanforizing Denim Fabrics


There are 4 variables that are critical for shrinkage, fabric defects and elongation:

1. Temperature

2. Moisture

3. Quantity of Pressure

4. Time of Pressure

1.Critical Temperature
There are 3 critical temperatures:

1. The temperature of the steam-heated cylinder which heats the rubber-belt.

• If this temperature is too high or too low, the surface of the rubber-belt is not able
to provide consistent compression.
• Generally, cotton fabrics are processed easily between 105 and 125 degrees C.
• Heavyweight denims which arrive from weaving with 12-15% potential shrinkage
require about 140 degrees.

2. Temperature of the Palmer Unit for drying the denim.

3. Temperature of the fabric as it enters the rubber-belt.

Fabric that is both hot and moist is easier to compress.

• For heavyweight denim, 14% moisture and 80 degrees centrigrade provides


adequate fabric elasticity.
• For the best control, fabric moisture should be controlled by spray and cooling
water at the Sanforizer, followed by heating before the rubber belt.

2.Sanforizing Moisture Control


• A general rule is that for each oz/square yard, 1% moisture should be applied.
For example, for a 10 ounce fabric, 10% moisture.
• Most denim finishing is now on the “integrated range. Moisture is controlled by
the drying cylinders on the finishing machine, then fabric passes directly to the
Sanforizer.
• A final moisture of 4-5% is necessary in order to stabilize the fabric
compression.
• If the moisture is higher, the fabric will elongate which increases final shrinkage.
• If the moisture is lower, the denim will elongate after absorbing moisture from the
air.
• Sanforizers require consistent steam pressure and should be located close to the
steam source.

Separate Sanforizing

• In separate Sanforizing, the denim is dried to about 6% moisture by the dyeing


cylinders on the finishing range.
• Then the fabric is transported to the Sanforizer where the correct amount of
moisture is applied by water sprays and by the cooling water for the rubber belt.
• This system usually provides better control.

3.Pressure (% of Compression )
• Sanforizing is a form of “mechanical shrinkage”.
• If a fabric has 12% shrinkage with 20 weft yarns/cm and 3% at 22/cm, then 10%
compression by the rubber belt will result in the weft being pushed together which
increases the weft yarns from 20-22/cm and reduces the shrinkage by 10 points.

4.Time Of Compression
• Denim has a very high % of shrinkage as it arrives from weaving up to 15%.
• The heat, moisture and time of pressure determine the control of shrinkage. - The
time of pressure is determined by the speed of Sanforizing.
• Heavy denims should not be Sanforized at more than 35 meters/min. Slower
speeds result in better control.

Conclusion
• Denim finishing is the most difficult of all apparel fabrics.
• Control of fabric quality requires a higher level of control which begins at
weaving
• The moisture and temperature must be monitored and controlled at each step.
• Sanforizing is more complicated than it appears and requires the most
attention.

For those who are interested in having deeper knowledge on denim finishing could
perhaps check a new Denim Finishing Manual from Bozetto called “Bozzetto Denim
Finishing Handbook" – which provides indepth information and tips on denim finishing.
Harry Mercer has been an important contributory to this manual . This manual can be
requested from Mr. Giacomo Mussetti at giacomo.mussetti@bozzetto.it

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