Gujarat

Gujarat
five thousand years of civilization
Savor the history and romance, colors and textures, rhythms
and dances of a land where time has never stood still.
From the rocky heights of the Sahyadri Mountains across to the salt flats of
the Desert of Kachchh, Gujarat has something for everyone. Wander through
remains of ancient Indus Valley civilizations; venture to meet the lions of Gir
Forest; soak in the legacy of Mahatma Gandhi; dance on the streets for nine
nights of Navratri. Enjoy an unparalleled ethos of hospitality. Experience
vibrant crafts, exquisite architecture, rich wildlife reserves, colorful festivals
and eclectic traditions. Join five millennia of seafarers, merchants and
settlers from around the globe and come discover Gujarat.

India Guide Offers:

• An inside perspective on the region
• Information on uncharted areas
• More than 300 color maps and images

Gujarat
• Local insight into customs and lifestyles
• Opportunities to volunteer in the local community

India Guide believes in responsible travel.

USD $19.99 CAD $22.99 GBP £10.99

www.indiaguide.in
India Guide Gujarat CONVERSIONS
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 anjali desai
assisted by vivek khadpekar

India guide Publications | ahmedabad • houston

 India is not just a place.
India is not just a people.
India is the celestial music,

And inside that music  

Anybody from any corner of the globe  
Can find the real significance of life.
Sri Chinmoy
The international boundaries on this map are neither claimed to be correct nor authenticated by the Survey of India directives.

iii
The international boundaries on this map are neither claimed to be correct nor authenticated by the Survey of India directives.

iv

 TABLE OF
CONTENTS
Map of India
Map of Gujarat
iii
iv-v
FAIRS & FESTIVALS 63-76
Foreword 1
Responsible Tourism 2 ITINERARIES 77-78

THE ULTIMATE GUJARAT AHMEDABAD 79-110

EXPERIENCE 3-16
ABOUT GUJARAT 17-62
Facts at a Glance 19 Valsad District 125-130
Geography 19
History 20-26
Economy 26-29
Ecology 30-32
Religion 32-37
Architecture 37-41
Literature 41-42
Theatre 42-43
Dance 43-44 Dahod District 180-185
Music 44-46
Art 46-47
People 48-50
In the Footsteps of Gandhiji 51-56
Krishna in Gujarat 57-62
Ahmedabad District 83-110
SOUTHERN GUJARAT 111-160
Surat District 115-124
Navsari District 131-136
The Dangs 137-145
Narmada District 146-153
Bharuch District 154-160
EASTERN GUJARAT 161-210
Vadodara District 165-179
Sabarkantha District 186-194
Anand District 195-204
Kheda District 205-210
NORTHERN GUJARAT 211-236
Patan District 216-221
Mahesana District 222-227
Banaskantha District 228-236
SAURASHTRA 237-306 Safety
Legalities
351-352
352
Bhavnagar District 241-250
Junagadh District 251-264 Prohibition & Liquor Permits 352
Diu 264-270 Disabled Travelers 352
Porbandar District 271-276 Gay & Lesbian Travelers 352
Jamnagar District 277-288 Travel with Children 352
Rajkot District 289-297 Women Travelers 353
Surendranagar District 298-306 Photography 353
Laundry 353
Wildlife Sanctuaries &
KACHCHH 307-334 National Parks 354
Kachchh District 311-334 City Names 354
Culture & Community 354-356

NUTS & BOLTS 335-356

RESOURCE GUIDE 357-390
Climate 338
Crafts 359-364
Packing Checklist 338
Cuisine 365-369
In & Out 339
Language Guide 370-374
Visas & Documents 339-340
Glossary 375-380
Health 340-344
Index 381-388
Toilets 344-345
Boxed Text & Map Index 389
Money 345-346
User Guide 390
Tourist Information 346
Acknowledgements 391-392
Getting Around 346-349
Accommodation 349
Business Hours 349-350
Shopping 350
Communication 350-351
Electricity 351
 FOREWORD
The inspiration for India Guide surfaced from a conversation between a small
group of friends who have been living in India for some time. We intently
discussed our desire to share with others the deep bond and affection that we
have for the country, while also communicating the colorful, often incredible
experiences that we encounter on a daily basis. And so we planted the seeds for
India Guide—a travel guide written by people that are largely local or possess
first-hand knowledge of India. One that draws attention to destinations off the
beaten path, places that encompass the essence of all that is amazing in this
country. India Guide is for the traveler who wants to connect with local people,
explore the stretches between major cities and major sights and immerse all
five senses and sensibilities into a space that demands reflection and offers
new perspective. Although the Taj Mahal and scenic beaches of Goa offer a
glimpse into the splendor of India, they do not encompass the complete
spectrum of her majesty. India Guide is a humble endeavor to highlight the
hidden treasures of India while cheering on the spirit of exploration and
discovery.

For the first of the India Guide series, we selected Gujarat, a state we know
intimately and one that is rarely seen as a travel destination. Beyond its
kaleidoscope of attractions, Gujarat hosts a unique culture of enterprise,
hospitality and diversity. Just as Gujaratis have spread around the world, they
have openly welcomed people, ideas and customs of various backgrounds into
their own land. India Guide Gujarat is a celebration of this warm ethos.

India Guide Publications is a team of passionate travelers (supported by a

network of topic experts) who speak the local language and understand the
culture. Our values are strongly rooted in knowledge-based traveling and
built upon four principles: cultural sensitivity, supporting the local economy,
respecting nature and reducing the negative impact of our footprint wherever
we may tread. We encourage self-reliance and empowerment through
information and cheer on those who take the road less traveled.

As each journey extends into the world around us,

it reaches an equal distance into the world within.
Anonymous


RESPONSIBLE
TOURISM
As the globe grows increasingly smaller, we must each do our part in taking
care of it. Since our choices and attitudes impact the world of tomorrow we
have highlighted a few guidelines that promote conscious traveling in an effort
to preserve the treasures of today for the next generation of travelers.

Cultural Sensitivity Travel with an open mind to really immerse in a new culture.
Make it a habit to always look, listen and learn in order to better understand
and internalize the local way of life. Try to do some research and get to know
the area—its history, customs and cultural norms. The proper context will
help enhance your sensitivity towards the place. Take the time to learn a few
phrases of the language to really connect with people. Respect the appropriate
dress codes and norms of each environment.

Support the Local Economy Stay at locally owned accommodations, eat foods
native to the area and purchase products made with indigenous materials.
Help support local artisans and preserve craft traditions by buying handcrafted
goods. And when time allows, get to know the person behind the craft.

Respect Nature Make the effort to conserve your water and power use. Recycle
whenever possible. Minimize the use of plastic by keeping a cloth bag on
you to carry your purchases. Avoid water pouches when possible. Hold on to
your waste until you have access to proper disposal facilities. Do not remove
anything from its natural environment, and when in nature, follow trails and
travel in small, unobtrusive groups.

Reduce the Negative Impact of your Footprint Always try to be aware of your
actions and their possible affects. When taking photos, especially of women,
ask for permission first since it can be obtrusive and disrespectful; in some
communities it may even be taboo. Try not to make promises to people such
as return visits and sending pictures if you can not follow through with them.
Giving money to beggars only reinforces their behavior. Instead donate to or
get involved in local social organizations that know and work with the area’s
underprivileged communities.



 THE ULTIMATE
GUJARAT EXPERIENCE


 The Ultimate Gujarat
Experience
The following is a selection
of some of Gujarat’s
1
highlights, which promise
to offer you an unforgettable Somnath Junagadh district
experience. For more Visit this omnipotent shrine, which has been
information refer to the destroyed and rebuilt six times and houses one of
page number listed after India’s 12 sacred jyotirlingas. (p 263)
each highlight.


SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
All of these itineraries assume Ahmedabad as the starting point. Spend the night at the last
place listed for each day. Refer to the relative section of the book for more information about
each destination.

KACHCHH
Day 1 Ahmedabad-Bhuj-Bhujodi-Bhuj
Day 2 Bhuj-Banni-Hodka-Bhuj
Day 3 Bhuj-Nirona-Zura-Than-Moti Virani
Day 4 Moti Virani-Nakhatrana (for bus connection)-Koteshwar-Lakhpat-Nakhatrana (for
bus connection)-Moti Virani
Day 5 Moti Virani-Nakhatrana (for bus connection)-Mandvi
Day 6 Mandvi-Bhuj
Day 7 Bhuj-Ahmedabad

For anyone interested in the Indus Valley Civilization or archaeology, add Dholavira to the itinerary and give
one full day to visit the site. It is best approached by private vehicle.

If you have the time you should add the following to the beginning or end of your Kachchh itinerary.

Day 1 Ahmedabad-Dasada-Jhinjhuwada-Dasada
Day 2 Dasada-Bhuj

SAURASHTRA
Travel in Saurashtra is time consuming because of the long distances between destinations.

Day 1 Ahmedabad-Jamnagar
Day 2 Jamnagar-Dwarka
Day 3 Dwarka-Porbandar
Day 4 Porbandar-Veraval/Somnath
Day 5 Veraval/Somnath-Ahmedpur Mandvi and/or Diu
Day 6 Ahmedpur Mandvi and/or Diu-Sasan Gir
Day 7 Sasan Gir-Junagadh
Day 8 Junagadh-Mt Girnar-Junagadh
Day 9 Junagadh-Palitana
Day 10 Palitana-Shihor-Bhavnagar OR
Palitana-Ahmedabad
Day 11 Bhavnagar-Lothal-Ahmedabad

NORTHERN GUJARAT
Day 1 Ahmedabad-Dasada
Day 2 Dasada-Modhera-Patan-Mahesana
Day 3 Mahesana-Vadnagar-Idar
Day 4 Idar-Vijaynagar and Polo-Kadoli Farm
(Rent a car to travel the Vijaynagar-Polo Circuit)
Day 5 Kadoli Farm-Shamlaji-Ahmedabad OR
Vijaynagar-Udaipur in Rajasthan (160km) OR
Vijaynagar-Ambaji-Mt Abu in Rajasthan (137 km)

77
EASTERN/SOUTHERN GUJARAT
Day 1 Ahmedabad-Vadodara
Day 2 Vadodara
Day 3 Vadodara-Champaner-Pavagadh-Chhota Udepur
Day 4 Chhota Udepur*-Sankheda-Dabhoi-Vadodara
Day 5 Vadodara- Saputara
(Skip the national highway and take a scenic drive (6 hrs) along the following route:
Dabhoi-Tilakwada-Garudeshvar-Rajpipla-Netrang-Mandvi-Valod-Vansda-Saputara.
Buses also travel from Vadodara to Saputara.)
Day 6 Saputara-Explore the Dangs-Saputara
Day 7 Saputara-Surat-Vadodara OR
Saputara-Vansda-Dharampur-Valsad

*It is possible to travel from Chhota Udepur via Dahod to Ujjain/Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh.
From Surat and Valsad frequent trains travel to both Ahmedabad and Mumbai.

AHMEDABAD CITY
This is a suggested two-day itinerary for anyone spending some time in the city. Read the
Ahmedabad City section for a more details on each place. Rickshaws and buses are the best
way to get around the city. A private vehicle would be nice for visits to Sarkhej and Adalaj, but
not necessary.

Day 1 0800-1030 Heritage Walk*

1030-1330 Adalaj Stepwell
Lunch Swati Snacks
1500-1700 Gandhi Ashram
Dinner Seva Cafe
Post-Dinner Walk through Manek Chowk or Law Garden at night

Day 2 1030-1200 Calico Museum*

1200-1330 Hutheesing Temple and Siddi Saiyed Mosque
Lunch Green House at Lal Darwaza
1430-1630 Explore Walled City
1630-1800 Sarkhej Roza (watch sunset)
Dinner/Entertainment Vishala/Vechaar Museum (at least 2 hrs)

*These have scheduled tours, so be sure to follow the times listed.

If you are in Ahmedabad on a Sunday, make it to the Ravivari Market (Gujari) under Ellisbridge.

Day excursions from Ahmedabad Weekend excursions from Ahmedabad

Patan-Modhera-Siddhpur Dasada-Zainabad-Jhinjhuwada
Idar Palitana-Shihor
Sojali Champaner-Pavagadh
Jhinjhuwada (lunch at Zainabad)
Anand
Wadhwan and surroundings

78
307
KACHCHH

308
 KACHCHH
AT A GLANCE 311 Dholavira 327
Mandvi 328
KACHCHH DISTRICT 312
Koday 331
Bhuj 312
Bada 332
Bhujodi 320
Navjivan Nature Cure Centre 332
Dhamadka 321
Rayan 332
Rudramata 321
Mundra 332
Kotay 321
Bhadreshwar 333
Kera 321
Getting Involved 333
Dhrang 322
Sumrasar 322
Bhirandiyara 322
Ludiya 323
Navavas 323
Khavda 323
Kalo Dungar 324
Hodka 324
Dhordo 324
Jura 324
Nirona 324
Than Monastery 325
Dinodhar Hill 325
Chavda Rakhal 325
Bohter Yaksh 325
Moti Virani 325
Fulay Plains 325
Kiro Dungar 325
Chhari Dhandh 326
Lakhpat 326
Narayan Sarovar 327
Koteshwar 327
Nani Rav 327

309
 GREAT RANN OF KACHCHH
Khavda Dholavira

Lakhpat
Dhordo Ludiya
Koteshwar
Chhari Bhirandiyara
Dhandh Hodka
Narayan
Fulay Plains Nani Rav
Sarovar
Than Rapar
Moti Virani Sumrasar
Nirona Dhrang LITTLE
Nakhatrana Kotay Dhamadka
RANN OF
Bhuj
Naliya KACHCHH KACHCHH
Bhujodi
Kera Wild Ass
Sanctuary
Koday Gandhidham
Rayan
Mandvi Bhadreshwar Kandla
Mundra

AHMEDABAD

AT A GLANCE
With its notable mud architecture, a medley
of craft traditions and exquisite apparel, this
eminently colorful and culturally rich land has
a wonderful handcrafted feel. Each community
has its own oral traditions, dance, craft and
dress. Stretching along the Tropic of Cancer,
from Rajasthan to the edge of Pakistan and
the Arabian Sea, Kachchh covers a little over
45,000 sq km and is geographically one of
India’s largest and most distinctive districts.

310
 KACHCHH
KACHCHH DISTRICT
DISTRICT 
KACHCHH  Population 136,500
Bhuj BHUJ

Area Code 02832
Distances - Ahmedabad 395 km
Bhujodi
Dhamadka ¼ws Vadodara 465 km
Rudramata Rajkot 220 km
Kotay
Kera
Dhrang A region of environmental extremes, Kachchh extends from the salty marshes
Sumrasar
in the north and the east through the grasslands of Banni and the central
Bhirandiyara
Ludiya
highlands down to the verdant coast along the Gulf of Kachchh.
Navavas
Khavda The Indus River once flowed into the Great Rann near Lakhpat, but in 1819,
Kalo Dungar when an earthquake raised a bank, the course shifted westward and altered the
Hodka landscape of the area. The seawaters receded, leaving behind a broad swath
Dhordo of saline swamps, otherwise known as the Ranns of Kachchh. When the rains
Jura submerge the Ranns, the land becomes a virtual island resembling the back of
Nirona a turtle, which is called kutcho in the local language and gives the region its
Dinodhar Hill
name. The coast and the marshlands host many migratory and domestic birds,
Chavda Rakhal
including giant flocks of flamingoes.
Bohter Yaksh
Moti Virani
Fulay Plains From the Great Rann rise sporadic outcrops of firm land known locally as beyt
Chhari Dhandh (island). Recent excavations on one such beyt known as Khadir have unearthed
Lakhpat the most significant city, outside Pakistan, of the 5000-year-old Indus Valley
Narayan Sarovar Civilization. The seals and pottery discovered here suggest that it was a bustling
Koteshwar port, with links to places as far as Zanzibar and Mesopotamia. Throughout its
Nani Rav history, until the advent of railways, Kachchh was an important node on the trade
Dholavira routes of this part of Asia. This mercantile tradition has endowed Kachchhis with an
Mandvi
inclusive worldview that long preceded colonization and globalization. Extensive
Koday
Bada
contact with the world has fostered a rich ethnic mix in Kachchh while the contact
Navjivan Nature with Sindh, a neighboring region in Pakistan, has been particularly important in
Cure shaping its cultural contours, especially language, cuisine and crafts.
Rayan
Mundra The history of Kachchh as a kingdom begins in the 13th c. with the rule of
Bhadreshwar the Samma Rajputs, who originated in Sindh. Their descendant Lakho Jadeja
Getting Involved
established the clan of the Jadeja Rajputs, who reigned until the region merged
with the Indian Union. In 1549 Khengarji I (1548-85) consolidated independent
territories and shifted the capital from Anjar to Bhuj. Under Bharmal I (1586-
1631) Kachchh came under Mughal rule. The king impressed Emperor Jahangir
with several lavish gifts and free passage for pilgrims to Mecca. In exchange
the Emperor pardoned the region from paying tribute and granted permission
to mint an independent Kachchhi currency, the kori. King Lakhpatji (1741-60)
discovered Ramsang Malam, the legendary sailor turned master craftsman,
and commissioned him to construct the Aina Mahal (glass palace) among other
splendid works. The king was also pivotal to the development of Kachchhi
painting. Desal II (1834-60) campaigned against sati, female infanticide and

311
Getting Around
Mandvi is best explored on foot. Rickshaws are good for further distances. Bicycles
can be rented from Bharat Bicycle Shop Jain Dharmashala Rd at Rs. 30/day.

Money
ATMs SBI Lakda Bazaar, Nr Bhid Gate and Dena Bank Sea Eagle Talkies Rd, Nr Azad
Chowk.
Foreign Exchange Regal Apex Forex, Sea Eagle Talkies Rd.
Money Transfer Western Union is available at the General Post Office.

Communication
Internet Vivek Computer Centre Nr Azad Chowk, Opp Hotel Krishna is closed
on Sunday afternoons.

To Vijay Vilas Palace &

Beach at Mandvi Palace

To Bhuj
20
22
1
23
2

21
3
4
Topanser Swam

Salaya
inaray
Lake an Road
19 Azad
Chowk
Ambaji Road

Sangara Kansara 5 9
Bazaar Bazaar 6 8 ad 26
o
Jhan

ala R
7 msh
24 hara
ain D

Mandvi Beach Road

si Ki

J
Bhid

S T Road
Rani

Khatri Gate

Rukmavati
Bazaar K T Shah Road 12
Road

Mochi
13 11 10
Bazaar
18

14
La
kd
a

River
Ba
za
ar

25
GT

15
Ro
ad

rm
16
Fa
d
in
To Sea

To Mandvi

W
To each 17
To
Beach

B
Po
rt

Mandvi Places of Interest

1 Fort Tower
14
16
SBI ATM
Book Shop
Legend 26 Shipbuilding 17 SBI Bank
18 Vegetable Market
Accommodation Nuts & Bolts 19 Old Swaminarayan Temple
2 Rukmavati Guest House 3 Regal Apex Forex 20 Dr. C. P. Sadhu Hospital
9 Hotel Sea View 4 Dena Bank ATM 22 General Post Office
12 Sahara Guest House 5 Rajeshwari Medical Store 23 Tagore Open Theater
15 Maitri Guest House 6 Vivek Computers 24 Laxmi Cinema
7 Dr. Rana Surgical Hospital 25 Light House
Food & Drink 8 Bharat Bicycle Rental
13 Zorba The Buddha 10 Sahajanand Travels
21 Sarovar Restaurant 11 Swaminarayan Travels

330
 INDEX
A Hutheesing Visual
Arts Centre 97
Mandvi 329
Nagoa 267
aarti 33
abbreviations 383 Ravishankar Art Gallery 99 Pirotan Island 288
accommodation 349 Art of Living 204 Positra 288
Adalaj 39, 78, 109 art 46-47, 176, 359-364 Shivrajpur 288
Adani 29 Artist Village 140 Tiny Sandy Island 288
Adi Kadi Vav 253 Arvind Mills 29 Wind Farm 329
Adinath Temple 247 Asait Thakar 42 beadwork 363, 289
agate 363 Ashapura Crafts Park 320 bell work 363
agiari 37 Ashapura 287, 321 Bene Israel 37
Navsari Agiari 132 Ashoka 20, 36, 254 Beyt Dwarka 286
Udwada Agiari 128 Ashokan Rock Edicts 36, 254 Bhadrapad Purnima 73
agriculture 25-26 ashram 96-97, 123, 156, 160, Bhadreshwar 333
ahimsa 34-35, 52 175, 204, 209, 276 Bhagavad Gita 33, 60-61
Ahir community 71 Asiatic lion 30, 260 Bhairav 229
Ahmed Shah I 22, 92 Ataash Behram 128-129, 132 bhajans 45, 71, 255
Ahmedabad Textile Mills ATM 345 Bhakti Movement 33, 41
Association (ATMA) 41 Aurangzeb no Killo 181 Bhalka Tirth 61
Ahmedabad 24, 40-41, 80-110, Aurangzeb 23, 181 Bhansara 276
66, 71, 75, 364 avatar 62 Bharat Mandir 272
Ahmedpur Mandvi 264 Avesta 37 Bharatiya Sanskriti
Ahwa 68, 144, 363 ayurvedic 103, 206, 281-282, Darshan Museum 316
Aina Mahal 311, 313 291, 296, 332 Bharuch District 154-160
Bharuch 22, 113, 154-155,
Aitihasik Ambo 124 B 157-160, 354
Ajrakh 321, 323, 360 Babi Dynasty 255
Akbar 22 Bharvad community 48-49
Bada 332 Bhasha Research and
Akhyana 41 Badshah no Hajiro (King’s Tomb) 92
Alang 250 Publication Centre 179
Bahadur Shah 22, 253, 265 Bhavai 42-43
Alauddin Khilji 22, 34 Balachadi 288
Alfred High School 51, 55 Bhavnagar District 241- 250
Balaram 71, 57-58, 234 Bhavnagar 48, 241-246
Allah 34 Balaram-Ambaji
Alphonso mango 125, 369 Bhavnath Festival 68
Sanctuary 213, 234 Bhavnath Temple 254
amarlinga 327 Balasinor 209
Amba Mata Temple 255 Bhidbhanjan Temple 281
Baldevji temples 254 Bhil community 48, 75, 233
Amba 43, 73, 191, 255 Balej 276
Ambaji 32, 73, 235, 287, 364 Bhirindiyara 323
Balkrishna Doshi 41, 98 Bhojay Sarvodaya Trust 333
Ambika 126 Balundra 234
Amdavad ni Gufa 41, 98 Bhrigu Rishi Temple 155
bamboo ware 363 Bhuj 68, 71, 311-320,
Amrutvarshini Vav 95 Banaskantha District 228-236
Amul Dairy Cooperative 27, 195-197 359-361, 363
Bandhani 283, 301, 333, 360 Bhujiyo Kotho 279
Anand District 195-204 Bangdi Bazaar 291
Anand Niketan Ashram 179 Bhujodi 361, 320
Banni 32, 322-324, 361 bhunga 40, 319, 323
Anand 27-28, 195-201 Banyan tree 52
Andrews Library 117 Bileshvar 38
Bapu Upavas Khand Memorial 290 Bilodra 2
Angar Pir 247 Bara Saiyad 257
Angra Mainyu 37 Bindu Lake 220
Barda Hills Sanctuary 275 birdwatching 32, 143, 175, 235,
Anklavadi 204 Bardoli 53, 55, 123
AP Kanvinde 41 260, 272, 305, 325
bargaining 350 Blackbuck 31, 246-247
appliqué 361, 364 Baroda Museum and Art Gallery 167
Aravali Mountains 19 Blind People’s Association 109
Bavka 184 Blind Welfare Council 185
architecture 37-41, 362 beaches 354
Armenian Tombs 118 block making 362
Ahmedpur Mandvi 264 block printing 320, 332, 360, 362
art Galleries 99 Balachadi 288
Baroda Museum and Bohra 214, 220-221
Chakratirth 267 Bohravad 221
Art Gallery 99 Dabdaba 288
Contemporary Art Gallery 99 Bohter Yaksh 325
Goghla 267 Bollywood 46, 329
Herwitz Gallery 98 Jalandhar 267 book post 351

381
book restante 351 Civil Disobedience 25, 54 Demoiselle cranes 32, 247
Brahma 155, 186, 191 classical dance 66 Dengue Fever 342
Brahmakund 249 classical music 45-46, 66, 102 Devgad Baria 184, 359
British Crown 23 clay relief work 49, 359 Devni Mori 192
British rule 24, 42, 47, 290 climate 19, 338 dhaba 368
British Tombs 118 colonialism 23 Dhakkabari 254
Buddha 36-37, 62, 192, 331 communication 350 Dhalgarvad 92
Buddhism 20, 36-38, 254 constipation 342, 344 Dhamadka 321
Buddhist Caves 20, 36, Contemporary Art Gallery 99 Dharampur 129
38, 249, 253 copper work 248 dharma 33
bus travel 347 coral reefs 30, 287-288 dharmashalas 349
business hours 349 cotton 19, 27, 360-361 dhobi 353
country code 350, 383 dhol 88
C courier 351 Dholavira 327
calendar 65 cows 33 Dholka 108
Calico Museum 46, 86 craft 359-364 Dhoraji 297
Cambay 22-23, 203-204 credit cards 345 Dhoramnath 325
camping 144, 185, 235, 276 cuisine 365-369 Dhordo 324, 359, 364
car rental 346 culture and community 354-356 Dhori 321
caste system 35 customs 339 dhow building 273
Central Library 168 Dhrang Mela 68, 322
Centre for Desert and D Dhrang 68, 322
Ocean (CEDO) 325 D N High School 197 Dhranghadra 304
Centre for Environment Dabdaba 288 Dhuleti 68-69
Education (CEE) 109 Dabgharwad 88 diamond 28, 120, 231
chabutro 40 Dabhoi 174 diarrhea 341-344
Chadar Saheb 36, 155 Dada Hari ni Vav 88 Digambar 35
chai 369 Dadabhai Naoroji 24, 131, 197 Dinodhar Hill 325
Chakratirth beach 267 Dahod District 180-185 dinosaur fossils 210
Champaner 177-178 Dahod 48-49, 180-183 disabled travelers 352
Chamunda 34, 126, 303 Dakor 71, 209 Diu Fort 266
Chandi Bazaar 281 Dalit literature 42 Diu Museum 266
Chandod 175 Dalits 24 Diu 264-270
Chandrisar Talav 303 Dalmatian pelican 284, 326 Diwali 73-74
chaniya cholis 98, 170, 350 Dalpatbhai Danidharia 317 dormitory 349
charkha 53, 97 Daman 129, 368 Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar 36
Charles Correa 41, 96, 98 Damodar Kund 254 Dr. Verghese Kurien 196-197
Chavda Rakhal 325 dance 42-45, 48, 66, 68, 70, Drishti Media 109
Chetna 109 73, 98, 102, 167 driver’s license 340
chevdo 367 Dandi Yatra (see Salt March) drugs
Chhab Talav 181 Dandi 54-55, 96, 113, 131-132, legalities 352
chhakadas 347 134-136, 197, 286 medical 344
Chhari Dhandh 326 Dangi Nritya 44 Durvasa 59
chhatardi 243, 314 Dangis 48 Dutch Tombs 95, 118
Chhatrapati Shivaji 23, 115, 143 Dangs Darbar 68 Dutch 95-96, 118, 155, 203
Chhota Udepur 66, 69-70, Dangs 44, 48, 137-145 Dwarka 32, 57-62, 71, 285
176, 359 Danta 233 Dwarkadheesh 32, 285
children (traveling with) 352 Darbar Hall Museum 257
Chinese 368 Darya Pir Shrine 332 E
Chintamani Jain Temple 118 Dasada 305-306 East India Company 23, 115
Chitra Vichitra Fair 69, 192, 234 Dashavatar Ranchhodrai Echo Point 140
Chitrasani 213, 228-229, 231-236 Mandir 149 economy 26-29
Chokrana 146 Dastur Meherji-Rana Library 132 embroidery 47, 48-49, 360
Chorwad 44 Datar Hill 255 EME Temple 168
Chotila Hill 303 Dattatreya 206, 324 emergency contact numbers 383
chowpat 243 Dawoodi Bohras 221 Environmental Sanitation
Chowsingha 30-31 Dedadara 303 Institute (ESI) 110
Christianity 36 Dediapada 153 European Tombs 118
Church of North India 36 Dehotsarg 62 exchange rates 383
City Museum 97 Delhi Sultanate 22 excursions 383

382
 F Abhiyan 333
Kala Raksha 333
Gujarat tourism office 346
Gujarat Vidyapith 53, 101
fairs 58, 65-76, 276, 297
Faiyaz Khan 45 Khamir Craft Resource Gujarati Diaspora 26
farsan 367 Centre 333 Gujari 95, 350
festivals 34-37, 65-76, 153 Kutch Mahila Vikas Gulbai Tekra 98
flamingoes 30-31, 247, 305, 323 Sangathan (KMVS) 334 Guru Nanak 35, 326
flat breads 366 Manav Kalyan Trust 136 Gurudwara Chadar Saheb 155
Flo Art 199 Manav Sadhna 110 gurudwara 36, 355
folk art 47, 98, 316 Muni Seva Ashram 179 Chadar Saheb 155
food 365-369, 373-374 Parsanben Narandas Ramji Lakhpat 326
Society (PNR) 250
forest rest houses 349
Sadguru Water and H
forest 19, 30 haat 176, 182, 184, 350
fossils 205, 210, 326 Development Foundation 185
Sahjeevan 334 hajj 34
French 90 Halepotra community 324
fruits 369 Samanvay Resource
Center 185 Halvad 304
Fulay Plains 325 Hamirsar Lake 314
Sanghavi Farm 130
G Seva Rural 160 handicrafts (see craft)
Harappan Civilization 20
Gaekwad 23, 39, 165 SEWA 110
Gandhi Ashram 96, Shantigram Nirman Hari Om Ashram 209
Gandhi Labour Institute 41 Mandal 160 Harijan 54
Gandhi nu Gam 323 Shree Bidada Sarvodaya Harishchandra Chori 192
Gandhi Smriti 242 Trust 334 Harsiddhi Mata Mandir 149
Gandhi Smruti Bhavan 120 Shroff Foundation 179 Hatgadh Fort 143
Gandhiji 24, 51-56, 96-97, Shrujan Trust 334 Hatkeshvar Temple 226
136, 242-243, 290 Tribhuvandas Foundation 204 haveli 40, 170, 208-209,
Gandhinagar 68, 109 Vivekanand Gramodyog 217, 221, 231
Gando Baawal 322 Society (VGS) 334 health 340-343
Ganesh Chaturthi 71, 98, 170 Vivekanand Research and Hemachandracharya 41, 217
Ganesh 71, 98 Training Institute (VRTI) 334 heritage hotels 349
Ganga Chhatardi 243 V-One Society 179 Balaram Palace Resort 234
Ganga Vav 302 Ghaus Mohammed no Kubo 326 Bhavani Villa 233
Gangeshvar Mahadev 175 ghazal 45 Kadoli Farm 194
Garasia community 234 Ghoghla Beach 267 Kali Niketan 176
Garba 43, 45, 167 Ghudkhar 30-31, 305 Nature Lover’s Retreat 178
Garbi 43, 303 Ghumli 287 Nilambagh Palace 245
Gaurishankar Lake 243 Gir Forest 260 Orchard Palace 296
gay and lesbian travelers 352 Gir National Park 260, 354 Rajwant Palace 150
general post office 349, 351 Gira Falls 143 Riverside Palace 296
geography 19 Girmal Falls 145 Royal Oasis 295
George V Club 231 Girnar Taleti 254 The Garden Palace 209
Getting Involved 383 globalization 26 Vijay Vilas Palace 248
Anand Niketan Ashram 179 Godmother 272 Heritage Walk 78, 90, 274
Bhasha Research and Golden Age 20 Himatnagar 74, 194
Publication Centre 179 Golden Bridge 155 Hindu calendar 65
Bhojay Sarvodaya Trust 333 Gomti Ghat 285 Hinduism 32-34, 61
Blind People’s Gondal 296 history 20-26
Association 109 Gop 38, 286 HIV/AIDS 185, 279, 343
Centre for Environment Gopi Talav 60 Hodka 319, 324, 359, 362-364
Education (CEE) 109 Govardhanram Tripathi 42, 205 Holi 68-69
Chetna 109 Gram Seva Trust 136 home remedies 343
Drishti Media 109 Gramshree 101, 110 Honey Bees Center 140
Environmental Sanitation grassland 30, 32, 322 Hope Bridge 117
Institute (ESI) 110 Great Famine 24 horses 233-234, 306
Gram Seva Trust 136 Great Indian Bustard 31 hospitality 355
Gramshree 110 Great Rann of Kachchh 30 hotels 102-103, 349
Heritage Trust 179 Gregorian calendar 65 Hunnar Shala 333
Hunnar Shala 333 guest houses 349 Hutheesing Jain Temple 87
Indicorps 110 Gujarat Ayurved University 281 I
Kachchh Nav Nirman Gujarat Sultanate 22 Idar Hill Fort (Idariyo Gadh) 188

383
Idar 186-190 Jamnagar 277-284, 360, 363 Khamir Crafts Resource Center
Idi Amin 26 Jamsetji Tata 131-132 318, 333
Id-ul-Fitr 34 Janmashtami 71, 285 Khanderao Market 170
immunizations 340-341 Japanese B Encephalitis 341 Khavda 323, 359, 360, 362, 369
India’s Independence 25, 54 jari 120 Kheda District 205-210
Indian commissions 340 Jath community 48 Khedbrahma 191
Indian embassies 340 jeevadaya 40 Khijada Mandir 279
Indian Skimmer 326, 284 Jessore Wildlife Sanctuary 236 Khijadia Bird Sanctuary 284
Indicorps 110 Jetpur 297, 360 Kilad Nature Education
Indoor Stadium 120 Jhinjhuwada 301, 306 Campsite 144
Indo-Saracenic 38 Joravar Palace 231 Kiro Dungar 325
Indus Valley Civilization 20, 37, Judaism 37 Kirti Mandir 51, 170, 272
108, 311, 327 (see Harappan) Junagadh District 61-62, Kirtistambha 231
industrialization 25, 32 251-264, 354 Kite Festival 66 (see Uttarayan)
industry 27 Junagadh 25, 36, 68, 251-259 kite making 364
infections 343 Jura 324 KM Munshi 42
Institute of Indology 41, 98 jyotirlingas 263, 286 Kochrab Ashram 52, 97
Institute of Rural Management Koday 331
and Agriculture (IRMA) 199 K Koran 34
insurance 340, 352 Kaba Gandhi no Delo 51, 290 kori 311
international flights 339 Kabirvad 160 Kotay Temple 321
Internet 351 Kachchh Eco-Education Kotay 321
Iqbalgadh 234 Tourism Cell 317 Koteshwar 327
ISD 350 Kachchh Mahila Vikas Kothi Kacheri 170
Islam 34 Sangathan (KMVS) 318, 323, 334 Krishna 32, 34, 38, 43, 57-62,
Islamic calendar 65 Kachchh Mahotsav 68 71, 209, 251, 276, 285-286
Kachchh Nav Nirman Abhiyan 333 kuldevi 34, 95, 217
J Kachchh 36, 47-49, 311-334, Kumbharia 235
Jagat Mandir 285 359-360 kund 40
Jahanarabaug 231 Kachchhi language 370 Brahmakund 314
Jain Temples 355 Kacheri Hall 257 Damodar Kund 254
Bhadreshwar 333 Kadiadungar 160 Ganga Kund 303
Bohter Jinalaya 331 Kala Raksha 322, 333 Kapadvanj Kund 220
Chintamani 118 Kalam Khush 97 Ladushah Kund 194
Hutheesing 87 Kali Temple 184, 217, 255 Ramkund 314
Kumbharia 235 Kalo Dungar (The Black Hill) 324 Suryakund 225
Mount Girnar 254 kamangari 47, 249, 325 Kutch Museum 314
Palitana 247 Kamatibaug 167 Kutiyana 262
Panchasara Parshvanath Kankai 261
Derasar 217 Kankaria Lake 39, 71, 95 L
Pavagadh 177 Kanoria Centre of Art 47, 97 lacquer work 175, 324, 362-363
Talaja 249 Kapadvanj 210, 221 Lakho Jadeja 311
Veraval 263 Karamsad 201 Lakhota Lake 279
Vijaynagar 192-193 karma 33, 35-36 Lakhota Museum 279
Jainism 20, 34-35 Karnavati 83 Lakhpat 326
Jalandhar Beach 267 Kasturba 51, 272 Lakshmi 88
Jalaram Temple 297 Kasturbhai Lalbhai (KL) Campus 97 Lalbhai Dalpatbhai Museum 46
Jallianwala Bagh 53 Kathi tribe 240 Lang Library 290
Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque) Kathiawad 19, 23, 240, 366 language 370
Ahmedabad 92 Kavi Village 160 laundry 353
Bharuch 155 Kawant Mela 70 Law Garden 98, 102
Champaner 178 Kayavarohan 175 Laxmi Vilas Palace 168
Junagadh 253 Kera 321 LD Institute of Indology 41
Khambhat 203 Kesar mango 262 Le Corbusier 41, 97-98
Rander 120 Kevadia Colony 152 leatherwork 323-324, 364
Sarkhej 106 Khadi 53, 97, 102, 124, legalities 352
Jambudweep Temple 248 243, 290, 350 leopard 137, 143, 178, 275
Jambughoda Sanctuary 178 Khadir 311, 327 Lesser florican 32, 247
Jamnagar District 57, 59-60, Khambhalida 297 Lili Parikrama Fair 74, 254
277-288 Khambhat 203-204 Limbdi 303

384
 linga 34
lipan 40, 323, 359
liquor permits 352
literacy 19
literature 41-42
Little Rann of Kachchh 30-31, 305
Lothal 20, 38, 46, 108
Louis Kahn 41, 98
Ludiya 309, 323, 359, 362-363
lunar calendar 65
luxury buses 347
M money transfers 345
M J Public Library 101
M R Arts and Science College 149
Maanbhatt 42
maavo 322
Madhavpur 58, 276
Madhavraiji Temple 255
Magen Abraham Synagogue 37
Mahabat Maqbara 255
Mahabharata 33, 69, 60, 62
Mahagujarat Movement 25, 205
Maharaja Sayajirao University of
Baroda (MSU) 47, 167
Mahashivaratri 68, 153
Mahatma Gandhi 51-56, 96,
124, 136
Mahavir Jayanti 35, 70
Mahavira 35
Mahesana District 222, 227
Mahesana 49, 222, 224
Mahmud Begada 22, 88, 106, 177
Mahmud of Ghazni 22, 263
Mahuda tree 48, 153
mail 351
Maitrakas 20, 38
Makata Lane 266
malaria 342, 344
Maldhari community 260
Manav Kalyan Trust 136
Manav Sadhna 52, 96, 110
Mandvi 328-331, 360
Manek Chowk 93-94, 106
mangos 127, 135, 262, 369
mangroves 288
manjo 364
Maratha Kingdom 115
Maratha 23, 165
Marine National Park and
Wildlife Sanctuary 287
Marjan Shami Roza 118
Mashru 219, 361
Mata ni Pachedi 47, 90, 360
Maurya 20
Mecca 34
Medical tourism 28
Meghwal community 49, 322-324
Mekran Dada 68, 321
Mer community 276
385
metal ware 94, 248, 302, 364 Sakkarbaug Museum 257
Minal Vav 297 Sanskar Kendra & City
Minaldevi 108, 229, 297, 306 Museum 97
minature painting 46, 98 Saputara Museum 139
Mirabai 41, 45, 285 Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel
Mithi Vav 229 National Memorial 87
Miyan Khan Chishti’s Mosque 87 Shri Vishal Jain Museum 248
mobile phones 351 Vechaar Museum 97
modern architecture 41, 98 Watson Museum 290
modern art 47 music 41, 44-46, 66, 93, 102, 322
Modhera Dance Festival 66 Muslims 20, 24, 34, 61
Modhera 66, 225 Mutwa community 324
money 345 N
monsoon 338 N C Mehta Collection 98
Morbi 295-296 Nadiad 205-208
mosque 356 nagara 88, 93
Bai Harir 88 Nagarsheth Haveli 266
Dholka 108 Nageshwar Mahadev 140, 286
Miyan Khan Chishti 87 Naginavadi 95
Pavagadh 178 Nagoa Beach 267, 270
Rani Rupvati 91 Najubibi’s Maqbara 257
Rani Sipri 94 Nal Sarovar 107
Siddi Bashir 88 namaste 370
Siddi Sayid 94 namaz 34
mosquitoes 342 Namda work 361
Moti Virani 325, 363 Nana Ambaji 191
Motu Derasar 231 Nani Rav 327
Mount Girnar 74, 254 nankathai 118, 123
Mrugi Kund 254 Narakasura 58
Mughal 22-23 Narmad Library 120
Mughalsarai 117 Narmad 42, 118
Muhammad Ali Jinnah 24 Narmada Dam 152
Muhammadabad 22, 178 Narmada District 113
Muharram 75, 93 Narmada River 152, 154-156
mukhwas 102, 366 narrow-gauge railway station 175
Mumbai 23, 339-340, Narsinh Mehta no Choro 255
346, 354, 348 Narsinh Mehta 41, 45, 249, 254
Mundra 332, 360-361 National Institute of Design (NID)
Muni Seva Ashram 179 41, 102
museum National Parks
Baroda Museum and (see Wildlife Sanctuaries)
Art Gallery 167 Nature Park 174, 226
Bharatiya Sanskriti naturopathy 124, 227, 332
Darshan Museum 316 naubat 93
Calico Museum 86 Nava Bazaar 170
Darbar Hall Museum 257 Navali 202
Diu Museum 266 Navavas 323, 362
Fatesinh Museum 168 Navghan Kuvo 254
Folk Art Museum 98 Navi Khadki 272
Gandhi Smarak Navjivan Nature Cure Centre 332
Sangrahlaya 96 Navlakha Temple 287
Kalpana Mangaldas Navratri 43, 72-73
Children’s Museum 98 Navsari 131-135
Kutch Museum 314 Navsari District 131-136
Lakhota Museum 279 Navsari Parsi Agiari 132
LD Museum of Art and Nayak Baiju 45
Archeology 98 Nazarbaug Palace 170
NC Mehta Collection of Nehru Planetarium 272
Miniature Paintings 98 Net-2-Phone 351
Nilambagh Palace 245
Nilgai 30-31, 235-236, 247,
260, 298, 305
Nirma 29
Nirona 324
Nizamshah Nandodji dargah 151
Non-Government Organizations
(NGOs) (see Getting Involved)
Nyaya Mandir 158, 170
O Portuguese 22-23, 129-130,
Omkarnath Thakur 45
oral traditions 41-42, 310
Ottoman Turks 264
overland travel 339
P pottery 20, 350, 359
paan 69, 366
Pachchham 47, 322-324
packing checklist 337-338
padyatris 235
painting 46-47, 91, 98, 167-168,
176, 249, 359, 361-362
Pakistan 24-25, 339
Palanpur Diamond Market 231
Palanpur 228-232
Palitana 35, 70, 247
paliyas 304
Pampa Lake 144
Panchajan 60
Panchajanya 60
Panchamal District 177-178
Panchasara Parshvanath
Jain Derasar 217
Pandit Jasraj 45
Pandurimata 153
Panera Dungar 126
Pannalal Patel 42
Parshvanath 188, 191,
203, 217, 231
Parsi community 128, 132
Parsis 37, 115, 128-129, 132,
264, 368
Parvati 149, 286
Paryushan 35
passport 339-340, 348, 351-352
Pataleshwar Mandir 229
Patan District 214-221
Patan 215-219, 361-363
patchwork 361
Pateti 37
Patidar community 201, 205
Patola 217-219, 290, 361
Pavagadh 177-178
PCO 350
Pethapur 362
petrochemicals 27-29
pharmaceutical 27-29
photography 353
Pill Garden 243
PIO card 340
Pir Miskinsha Urs 262 Ramzan 34
Pirotan Island 287-288 Ranakdevi Temple 302
Pithora painting 176 Ranchhodbhai Udayram 43
Pittal Bazaar 248 Ranchhodlal Chhotalal 24
Polo Forest 192 Ranchhodrai Temple 209
pols 40, 170, 217, 231 rangoli 74
population 19 Rani no Hajiro (Queen’s Tomb) 93
Porbandar District 58-59, 271-276 Rani Rupvati’s (Roopmati’s)
Porbandar 55, 58-59, 271-275, 368 Mosque 91
ports 28 Rani Sipri (Sabrai) Mosque 94
Ranjitsinhji 277
264-265 Ranki Vav 216-217
Poshina 69, 191, 359 Ranns of Kachchh 30, 311
Positra 288 Rao Lakhpat’s Chattardi 314
post office (see general post office) Rashtriya School 290
Rataba Vav 303
Pragmahal Palace 314 Ratan Bai Masjid 281
Pramod Villa 149 Ratanmahal Sanctuary 185
Pranami sect 279 Rath Yatra 71
Prasanben Narandas Ramji Rathwa community 49, 176
Society (PNR) 250 Ravechi Fair 71
Pratap Vilas Palace 170 Ravishankar Art Gallery 47, 99
Pratappur 303 Ravivari Market 78, 95
Premananda 42 Rayan 332
private buses 347 Reliance 27, 29
prohibition 352 religion 32-37
Prophet Muhammad 34, 168 responsible tourism 4
Puanreshwar Temple 325 Revivalist Movement 47
puja 33 rickshaw 347
Puranas 33 right hand 355
Purna Wildlife Sanctuary 145 roadside shrines 33
Pushtimarg 33, 45, 286 rock-cut caves 38, 297
Roda 194
Q Rogan 324, 362
Qasab 318, 334 Ropeway 140
quilting 361
Rowlatt Act 53
Qutbuddin Hajira 168 Rudra Mahalaya 220
R Rudramata 321
Ra’ Khengar Vav 261 Rudrani Temple 321
Raas 43, 48, 73, 60 Rukmini 58-59, 276, 286
Rabari community 49 Ruthi Rani no Mahal 188
rabies 342-343
Rabindranath Tagore 87
S
SAATH 328
radio 46 Sabarkantha District 186-194
Raichand Deepchand Library 155 Sabarmati Ashram 54
rain water harvesting 40, 281, 326 Sadguru Water and
Raioli 210 Development Foundation 185
Raj Mahal 302, 304 safaris 194, 233-234,
Raja Ravi Varma 47 305, 319, 325
Rajkot District 289-297 safety 57, 351, 353
Rajkot 48, 55, 289-294, 346, 363 Sahasralinga Talav 217
Rajkumar College 291 Sahjeevan 334
Rajpipla 69, 146-151 Sahyadri 19, 129, 137
Rajwant Palace 148-150 Saindhavas 20
rakhals 312, 325 Saint Kabir 160, 321
Rama 62, 144 Sakkarbaug Zoo and Museum 257
Ramayana 33 Salt March 54-55, 96, 135-136, 197
Ramkund 314 salwar kameez 353
Rampura 303 samadhi 36, 160
Ramsang Malam 313
386
 Samanvay Resource Center 185 Sharadbagh Palace 316 stone carving 304, 364
Sambar 31, 260 share mania 27 street food 341, 368
Samudradev 57 shared jeeps 347 Sudamapuri Temple 59, 272
Sanghavi Farm 130 shared rickshaws 347 Sufism 34
Sanjan 129 Sher Khan 22 Sujni 157
Sankheda Ware 175, 362 Shetrunjaya Hill 35, 247 Sumrasar 322
Sanskar Kendra 41, 47, 97 Shia 34, 45, 75 Sun Temple 38, 46, 66, 193,
Sanskruti Kunj 68 Shihor 248, 364 262-263
Santaram Mandir 206 shikhara 38, 220 Sundaram 42
sapota 27, 131, 369 ship breaking 28, 250 Sunni 34
Saptak music festival 66 shipbuilding 329 Sunrise Point 140
Saputara Museum 139 Shish Mahal 302 Surat Castle 117
Saputara 69, 137-142 Shiva 34, 68, 149, 152, 159, Surat District 115-124
sarangi 42 160, 175, 220, 278, 327 Surat 115-123, 361
Sarasvati River 215, 217 Shoolpaneshwar Temple 152 Surendranagar District 298-306
Sarasvatichandra 42, 205 Shoolpaneshwar Sanctuary 153 Surendranagar 44, 48, 71, 298-301
Sardar Patel University 195, 199 shopping 350 Sursagar Lake 170
Sardar Patel 53, 87, 124, Shree Bidada Sarvodaya Trust 334 Suryakund 225
195, 197, 201-202 Shreenathji 34 swadeshi 24, 53, 56
Sardar Sarovar Project 87, 152 Shreyas Folk Art Museum and Swami Dayanand 297
Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Performing Arts Museum 98 Swami Sahajanand 34
National Memorial 87 Shri Ramakrishna Mission 291 Swaminarayan Temple 88, 100,
Sarkhej 22, 39, 106 Shri Vishal Jain Museum 248 109,155, 280, 297, 303, 314
sarovar 39 Shrimad Rajchandra 188 Swaminarayan 32, 34, 202-203
Sartanji no Choro 273 Shroff Bazaar 314, 318 swaraj 24
Sartanpur 249 Shroff Foundation 179
Sarus Crane 31-32, 107, 226 Shrujan Trust 334 T
sarva dharma 32 Shuklatirth 159 tabla 102
Sarvodaya Kendra 236 shuttles 347 Takhatsinhji 241
Sasan Gir 260 Shvetambar 35, 46 Takhteshwar Temple 243
sati 311, 235, 302, 304 Siddha Hema Shabdanushasan 41 Talaja 249
satya 35 Siddhartha Gautama 36 Talala 262
Satyagraha Ashram 24 Siddhpur 220 talav 40
satyagraha 52, 123-124, 205 Siddhraj Jaysinh 229, 302, 306 Chandrisar Talav 303
Saurashtra 48-49, 57, 118, Siddi Bashir Mosque 88 Khan Talav 108
237-306, 360-361, 366 Siddi community 94, 262 Sahasralinga 217
Sayajibaug 167 Siddi Dhamal 44 Tambekar Wada 167
Sayajirao 165, 167 Siddi Sayid Mosque 94 Tandava 68
Sayyed Pir no Kubo 326 Sikhism 35-36 tanka 40
School of Architecture and Silver Work 363 Tankara 297
Planning (CEPT) 97 Sindh 19, 22, 25, 360, 363, 365 Tankshala 90
Science City 108 Sir James Fergusson 314 Tara Mandir 272
secular architecture 39 Sisodia Rajputs 129 Taranga 227
Seva Rural 160 sleeper bus 347 Tarnetar Fair 71, 304
SEWA 101, 110 Sloth bear 31, 178, 185, 236 Tarnetar 304
Shabari Dham 144 Sojali 210 telecommunications 350
Shah Alam Roza 96 Solanki architecture 38-39, 225, temple architecture 38
Shah Alam Urs Fair 75 227, 235, 287, 306 temple 355
Shah Jahan 23, 87, 181 Solanki 20, 42, 215, 217, 302, 370 Akshardam 109
Shahi Roza 231 Solarium 279 Ambaji 235
Shaivism 20, 33 Somnath 32, 263 Bala Hanuman 281
Shaking Minarets 88 Sompura community 304, 364 Bavka 184
Shakti peethas 235 squat toilet 344 Bhavnath 254
Shakti 177, 235, 303 Sri Aurobindo Niwas 168 Bohter Yaksh 325
Shaktism 33-34 St Paul’s Church 266 Chotila 303
Shamlaji 74, 192 St Thomas Church 266, 269 Dakor 209
Shankha Tirtha 60 state government offices 349 Dwarkadeesh 285
Shanku’s Nature Health Centre 227 State Transport (ST) buses 347 EME 168
Shantigram Nirman Mandal 160 STD 350 Jalaram 297
Shantinath 188, 281 stepwell (see vav) Kalo Dungar 324

387
 Khedbrahma 191
Kotay 321
V V-One Society 179

Koteshwar 327
Vadhvana Wetland 175 W
Vadia Palace 149 Wadhvan 301-303
Modhera 225 Vadnagar 226-227
Nageshwar Mahadev 286 Waghai 143
Vadodara District 165-179 Wagheshvari Temple 303
Narayan Sarovar 327 Vadodara 23, 46-49, 165-173, 354
Navlakha 287 wall paintings 47, 176
Vadtal 202-203 Walled City 86, 88, 92, 94-95
Pavagadh 171 Vaghari community 90, 360
Santaram 206 Wankaner 295
Vaishnavism 33 water purification 341
Shamlaji 192 Valabhi 20
Somnath 263 water sanitation 179
Valanda Kothi 155 water sports 264, 267
Sudamapuri 272 Vallabh Vidyanagar (V V Nagar) 199
Swaminarayan Kalupur 88 Watson Museum 290
Vallabhacharya 34, 286 weaving 320
Swaminarayan Vadtal 203 Valsad District 125-130
terracotta horses 191-192, 234 Western Ghats 137
Valsad 28, 48, 125-127, 354 Western Union 345
terracotta 20, 108, 359 Vankar Shyamji Vishram 320
textile craft 360-362 wetland 30
Vansda National Park 143-144 White Revolution 25, 27, 197
Textile Markets 120 Vanthali 261-262
textile mills 24, 27, 29, 52 Wi-Fi 100, 351
Vasai Jain Tirth 333 Wild Ass Sanctuary 304-305
textile 22, 28, 84, 86, 297, 360-362 Vasco de Gama 332
Thadvi community 153 Wildlife Sanctuaries
Vaso 208, 362 Balaram-Ambaji
thali 365 Vautha Fair 75, 108
Than Monastery 325 Sanctuary 235
Vautha 75, 108 Barda Hills Sanctuary 275
The Muslim League 24 vav 39
theater 42-43 Gir National Park and
Adalaj 109 Sanctuary 260
Thol Lake Sanctuary 226 Adi Kadi Vav 253
tipping 345-346 Jambughoda Sanctuary 178
Amrutvarshini Vav 96 Jessore Sanctuary 236
tirthankar 35 Battris Kotha ni Vav 209
Tirupati Natural Park 226 Khijadia Bird Sanctuary 284
Dada Hari ni Vav 88 Marine National Park and
Tithal 128 Minal Vav 298
toilets 344-345 Sanctuary 287
Mithi Vav 229 Nal Sarovar Sanctuary 107
Tomb of Daria Khan 87 Pancham Mehta ni Vav 228
Tombs of the Babi Kings 255 Purna Wildlife Sanctuary 145
Ra’ Khengar Vav 261 Ratanmahal Sanctuary 185
toran 38 Ranki Vav 216
Kapadvanj 210 Shoolpaneshwar
Rataba Vav 303 Sanctuary 153
Siddhpur 220 Vikia Vav 287
Vadnagar 226 Thol Sanctuary 226
Vechaar Museum 97 Vansda National Park and
Vijaynagar 193 vegan 369
Torrent 29 Sanctuary 143-144
vegetarianism 365 Velavadar National Park and
Tourism 28 Velavadar National Park 246
train travel 347-348 Sanctuary 246
Veraval 263 Wild Ass Sanctuary 305
trekking 145, 153, 185, Vijay Vilas Palace 329
235-236, 324-325 Willingdon Crescent 281
Vijaynagar 192-193 Willingdon Dam 255
tribal art 47 Vipassana 332
tribal craft 363 Wilson Hill 129
Vir Narmad Sarasvati Mandir 118 women’s health 343
Tribhuvandas Foundation 204 Viramgam 39, 108
Triveni Ghat 62 woodwork 175, 208, 362
Virampur 234 World War II 24
Tropic of Cancer 19, 310 virdas 324
Tughlaq Dynasty 22 worms 343
Virpur 297
tukkal 66 visa extension 339 Y
Turks 22 visa 339-340 Yadav 57, 61, 62
U Vishala Village 104 yaksh 325
Ubhrat 135 Vishnu 33, 62
Vishvakarma 57, 364
Z
Udwada 37, 128 Zainabad 305
Umashankar Joshi 42 Vithalnathji 34
Zaverchand Meghani 42
untouchability 36, 56 Vivekanad Research and
Zoroastrianism 37
Uparkot 38, 253-254 Training Institute (VRTI) 334
Zydus Cadila 29
Uttarayan 66 Vivekanand Gramodyog Society
(VGS) 334

388
 BOXED TEXT Northern Gujarat
Saurashtra
215
240
Gujarati Diaspora 26 Kachchh 310
Economy Quick Facts 26
Share Mania 27 City Maps
The Nirma Story 29 Ahmedabad City 89
Ranns of Kachchh 30 Ahmedabad Walled City 91
Who’s Who (wildlife) 30-31 Surat 119
More On Hinduism 33 Valsad 126
The Jain Dilemma 35 Navsari 133
Judaism 37 Saputara 139
Water Structures 39 Rajpipla 148
Music on the Airwaves 46 Baruch 156
Folk Art 47 Vadodra 169
Your Freedom Trail 55 Dahod 182
Bhagavad Gita 61 Idar 189
Ten Reincarnations of Vishnu 62 Anand 198
The Weatlth of Ahmedabad 88 Nadiad 207
The Heritage Walk 90 Patan 218
Naubat 93 Mahesana 223
Baba Maneknath 93 Palanpur 230
Seva Café: Living is Giving 104 Bhavnagar 244
Indicorps: Service for the Soul 110 Junagadh 256
Nankathai 118 Porbandar 273
Diamonds in Surat 120 Jamnagar 280
The Tata Story 132 Rajkot 292
Forest Guest Houses 142 Surendranagar 300
The Narmada Controversy 152 Bhuj 315
Colonial Marketplaces 170 Mandvi 330
Pithora Painting 176 Diu Town Map 268
Brahma 191
The Amul Story 197 District Road Maps
The Legend of Dakor 209 Ahmedabad 107
Dawoodi Bohras of Gujarat 221 Surat 124
The Garasia Community 234 Valsad 128
Shakti Peethas 235 Navsari 135
Alang 250 The Dangs 142
The Maldhari Community 260 Narmada 151
The Siddi Community 262 Baruch 159
Underworld of Porbandar 272 Vadodra 174
Mangroves 288 Dahod 183
Paliyas 304 Sabarkantha 190
Navagraha (Nine Planets) 306 Anand 201
Crazy Weed 321 Kheda 208
Bhunga 323 Patan 220
Traditional Water Systems 324 Mahesana 225
Water Purification 341 Banaskantha 233
Diarrhea 342 Bhavnagar 246
Preventing Mosquito Bites 342 Junagadh 259
Replenish your Body’s Water Loss 344 Porbandar 275
Drug Names 344 Jamnagar 284
The Case For Vegetarianism 365 Rajkot 295
Gujarati Flat Breads 366 Surendranagar 302
At Your Fingertips 383 Kachchh 320

Other Maps
MAP INDEX India Map iii
Gujarat Map iv-v
Regional Maps Ultimate Gujarat Experience Map 16
Ahmedabad 82 The Salt March 54
Southern Gujarat 114 In the Footsteps of Gandhiji 55
Eastern Gujarat 164 Krishna in Gujarat 57

389
USER GUIDE
In this book, the state is divided by its districts, which are then clustered together based on
their geographic location. Under each district, the book highlights a major city (usually the
district headquarters) as the main hub. These cities offer access to accommodation, restaurants,
Internet, and a good transportation network. We have listed all other destinations within each
district as excursions from the major city. In a few places where it makes sense, we have listed an
entire district as the excursion itself.

At a Glance is a brief introduction to the region. The regional section is then broken down
into districts. Each district section begins with an introduction and brief history of both the
district and the major city highlighted.
Places of Interest are compiled under each major city section to help you build an itinerary
according to your interests. They include descriptions of the destination along with a historical
background when appropriate and contact information when necessary.
Nuts & Bolts (Tourist Information, In & Out, Getting Around, Money, Communication,
Medical, Photography, Markets, Bookstores, Entertainment, Activities, Accommodation, Food
& Drink) are listed for each city where the information is available. Semicolons are used to
seperate different addresses for the same chain.
Excursions highlight the other interesting destinations within the district, which are
accessible from the main city. Accommodation and restaurants are listed below a few of the
excursion destinations where a longer halt is a good option. Approximate distances to the
excursion site from the main city are given for most places.
Getting Involved is the final section of each district that highlights non-profit organizations
throughout the region where you can volunteer. Please contact them ahead of time if you plan
on visiting or volunteering your time.

Maps
Regional maps highlight a cluster of AT YOUR FINGERTIPS
districts within a region.
The city map is designed to help you Country Code +91
navigate each main city. Approximate Exchange Rates
The road map helps illustrate how 1 USD = Rs. 45
different places within a district are 1 GBP = Rs. 85
connected. 1 EUR = Rs. 57
Emergency Contact Numbers
Abbreviations used in this book Police 100
Bldg Building Fire 101
c. Century Ambulance 102
Cmplx Complex
Time
Flr Floor GMT+ 5.5 hours
Km Kilometer India does not have daylight savings
Nr Near time. India is 5.5 hrs ahead of London,
Nxt Next 10.5 hrs ahead of New York, 11.5 hrs
Opp Opposite ahead of Houston, 13.5 hrs ahead of LA,
Stn Station and 4.5 hrs behind Sydney.

390
 THE INDIA GUIDE
GUJARAT TEAM
Chief Editor
Anjali Desai

Assistant Editors
Vivek Khadpekar
Amishal Modi

Map Editor
Prashant Pednekar

Designer
Jayesh Patel
Tiffany Treweek
Anirban Dutta Gupta

Map Designer
Mahesh Panchal

Consultant
Kirti Thaker

Lead Photographers
Vivek Desai
Maria Durana

READER FEEDBACK

This is just the beginning! We invite and encourage you

to send in your own discoveries as you travel through
Gujarat so that we can improve this book and share new
experiences. Please send your anecdotes, travel hints,
advice and feedback to gujarat@indiaguide.in.

To purchase India Guide Gujarat

visit www.indiaguide.in
391
India Guide Gujarat CONVERSIONS
First International Edition
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Published by India Guide Publications 1 liter = 1.82 US pints 1 meter = 3.28 feet
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1 liter = 1.05 US quart 1 yard = 0.91 meters
Publisher’s Cataloging-in-Publication Data 1 US quart = 0.95 liters 1 meter = 1.09 yards
1 liter = 0.88 Imperial quarts 1 hectare = 2.47 acres
Desai, Anjali H. 1 Imperial quart = 1.137 liters 1 acre = 0.40 hectares
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India Guide Gujarat / Anjali H. Desai, editor ; Vivek Khadpekar,
1 US gallon = 3.79 liters Fahrenheit-Centigrade: subtract 32 and divide by 1.8
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1. Gujarat (India)—Description and travel. 2. Gujarat (India)— 1 ounce = 28.35 grams 40 °C = 104 °F
Guidebooks. 3. Gujarat (India)—History. 4. Gujarat (India)—Social life 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
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and travel. I. Khadpekar, Vivek. II. Title. 1 British ton = 1016 kilograms One crore equals 10,000,000 (ten million) and is
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DS485.G83 D47 2007
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CIP
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Church
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Railway Station ROAD MAPS
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Airport City / Town / Village
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Gujarat

Gujarat
five thousand years of civilization
Savor the history and romance, colors and textures, rhythms
and dances of a land where time has never stood still.
From the rocky heights of the Sahyadri Mountains across to the salt flats of
the Desert of Kachchh, Gujarat has something for everyone. Wander through
remains of ancient Indus Valley civilizations; venture to meet the lions of Gir
Forest; soak in the legacy of Mahatma Gandhi; dance on the streets for nine
nights of Navratri. Enjoy an unparalleled ethos of hospitality. Experience
vibrant crafts, exquisite architecture, rich wildlife reserves, colorful festivals
and eclectic traditions. Join five millennia of seafarers, merchants and
settlers from around the globe and come discover Gujarat.

India Guide Offers:

• An inside perspective on the region
• Information on uncharted areas
• More than 300 color maps and images

Gujarat
• Local insight into customs and lifestyles
• Opportunities to volunteer in the local community

India Guide believes in responsible travel.

USD $19.99 CAD $22.99 GBP £10.99

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