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Sizes: Women's smaller (size 7 and under) larger (size 8 and up) US sizes
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#1 Superfine yarn Example was made from Sensations brand "Bamboo and Ewe"
Pattern yarn (55% Wool, 30% Nylon, 15% Bamboo) 262 yds. per 60 gram skein
size smaller 1 skein, larger 2 skeins
Set of size 1 dpn (or whatever size is needed to obtain the suggested gauge.)
2
Definitions:
Instep: Top surface of the sock opposite of the "sole"
SL1: Slip 1 stitch
SSW: slip, slip, work
W2tog: work two together. Either knit two stitches together or purl two stitches
together, depending on where they fall in your rib pattern
Work or "W": either knit or purl a stitch, depending on where it falls in your rib pattern
Work evenly: do not increase or decrease number of stitches on a needle.
Gauge: 17 stitches X 23 rows = 2 x 2 inches
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These socks have two different sizing considerations: The first is the "build" of the
wearer and the width of the foot. In order to decide which caston stitch count to use,
measure around your leg (measure 7 inches up the leg, where the top of the sock will
hit) and around the widest part of your foot. Use the larger stitch count for the caston
if your leg is larger than 10" around or if your foot is more than 9" around at the widest
part. If your measurements are smaller than a 9" foot or 10" leg, you should caston
the smaller number to begin your sock.
At the end of the pattern, when I suggest knitting the foot 4.75"/5.75" before beginning
toe decreases, those are just general guidelines. The best thing you can do is knit up to
the suggested length (4.75 for shoe sizes 7 and under, 5.75 for sizes 8 and up), then
"tryon" the sock while it is still on the needles. If the foot of the sock is touching the
nail of your pinkie toe, then you are at the proper length to begin the toe decreases.
Adjust the length of the foot if necessary, then continue to follow the pattern to finish
the toe.
So, you have to think beyond just shoe size when deciding how to make a perfectfit
sock. If you are a very thin person with narrow size 9 feet, you may need to cast on 60
stitches, use the smaller directions to turn the heel and decrease the gussets, but you'll
end up using the larger size directions to fit your longer foot. Similarly, if you are a
heavier person with size 6 feet, you may need to cast on 72 stitches, following the
larger size pattern instructions until it is time to knit the foot, where you'll switch to
following the smaller sock instructions (knitting 4.75 inches of foot before beginning
decreases.)
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Cast on 60/72 stitches and divide evenly between 3 doublepointed needles. Join in a
circle and work K2, P1 to establish a ribbed pattern all the way around.
Continue rounds in ribbed pattern until the sock measures 6/7 inches from caston edge.
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Shift stitches so they are now divided evenly on 2 dpns. The next stitch to be worked
should be at the right end of needle #1. Needle #2 will hold the 30/36 instep stitches
while you work the heel flap on needle #1.
3
Work heel flap as follows:
Using the 30/36 stitches on Needle #1, Work the K2, P1 ribbed pattern across, then turn
and "reverse" the pattern (so your pattern will now be a K1, P2 you want to keep the
rib pattern consistent on the front side, so you'll be knitting the stitches you purled on
the front side and you'll purl the stitches you knit on the front side.)
Work heel flap until it measures 1.5/1.75 inches long.
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(Continue to use K2, P1 rib pattern while turning the heel. I will use "work" or "W"
instead of "Knit" or "P" so you can insert whatever stitch comes next in the ribbing
pattern for this entire section):
Row 1: Work 19/23 stitches across needle #1, SSW, W1, turn
R2: SL1, W 8/11, W2tog, W1, turn
R3: SL1, W 9/12, SSW, W1, turn
R4: SL 1, W 10/13, W2tog, W1, turn
R5: SL1, W 11/14, W2tog, W1, turn
R6: SL1, W 12/15, W2tog, W1, turn
Continue this pattern, slipping the first stitch, working pattern across the needle until the
stitch before the gap, either knitting or purling 2 together to "close the gap", then
working 1 more stitch before turning. Eventually you will have worked all the stitches
and there will be 20/24 left on your needle. End after you have finished a rightside
row. Your heel turning is complete.
Using needle 1 (still holding the 20/24 stitches left from your turned heel) pick up 11/13
stitches on the left gusset (left side of the heel flap.) With a spare needle, work the
30/36 instep stitches from needle 2. With a third needle, pick up 11/13 stitches from
the right gusset and work 10/12 of the heel stitches from Needle #1.
Your stitches are now divided as follows:
Needle 1: 10/12 heel stitches + 11/13 picked up gusset sts
Needle 2: 30/36 instep stitches
Needle 3: 11/13 gusset sts + 10/12 heel sts
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Work these 3 needles in the round, still in the K2, P1 rib pattern, decreasing one stitch
on each side, every other row as follows (instructions for each needle are spaced apart):
Round 1: W19/23, W2tog, W 30/36, SSW, W 19/23
Round 2 (and all even numbered rounds): Work all needles evenly
Round 3: W18/22, W2tog, W 30/36, SSW, W 18/22
Round 5: W17/21, W2tog, W 30/36, SSW, W 17/21
Round 7: W16/20, W2tog, W 30/36, SSW, W 16/20
Round 9: W15/19, W2tog, W 30/36, SSW, W 15/19
Round 11: W14/18, W2tog, W30/36, SSW, W14/18
(larger size only) Round 13: W17, W2tog, W36, SSW, W17
4
Work 2 more rounds evenly in K2, P1 pattern, then readjust stitches on dpns as follows:
Needle 1: 16/19 stitches at the center of the sole that were left after turning the heel
(just follow the rib pattern down and you should be able to pick them out)
Needle 2: 22/26 stitches to the left of the heel stitches
Needle 3: 22/27 stitches to the right of the heel stitches
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Continue to work needle 1 evenly in the K2, P1 pattern. Work needles 2 and 3 evenly
in stockinette stitch (all stitches are Knit).
Work foot until it measures 4.75/5.75 inches from the side of the heel flap (this
measurement can be finetuned if you "try on" the sock while still on the needles. You
want to work until the foot touches the nail on your pinkie toe, then begin decreases.)
Adjust stitches on the needles as follows: Needle 1: 16/19 heel stitches in rib pattern +
7/9 to the left of the ribbed pattern and 7/8 to the right side. Divide the remaining
30/36 stitches between Needles 2 and 3.
Begin decreases in the toe, every other row, as follows:
Round 1: N1: K1. SSK, Work to last 3 stitches, W2tog, K1
N2: K1, SSK, Knit to end of needle
N3: Knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1
Round 2: Work all stitches evenly (keeping ribbed pattern on sole of the foot)
Round 3 and all oddnumbered rows: repeat Round 1
Round 4 and all evennumbered rows: work all stitches evenly
Continue in established pattern until you have 15, 7, 8 /18, 9, 9 stitches remaining on
the 3 needles. Immediately after the last oddnumbered decrease round, transfer the
stitches from the two needles holding smaller stitches to one needle. You now have 2
needles, each holding 15/18 stitches.
Use Kitchener stitch (grafting) to close the toe. Weave in ends.