Beauty Exposé
A U T U MN E D IT ION
The price you pay…
What price are you willing to
pay for skin care products? This
is a question I have been asking
people I meet to gain insight
into their understanding of the
pricing concept of skin care and
if they know what they are get-
ting for their money. Many are
willing to opt for the cheaper
supermarket varieties of prod-
ucts available while others be-
lieve they are purchasing a better
quality product when they pay
quite a substantial amount,
regardless of where they pur-
chase it.
In the recent past it was easy to
ascertain the quality of a skin
care product simply by where
you could obtain it, i.e. at a
supermarket, chemist/
department store or beauty
salon. The rule of thumb was
that cheaper products available
from supermarkets were less
active than those available from
a chemist/department store
while the products with the
greatest activity were only avail-
able through professional outlets
such as Beauty salons, day spas,
etc. Those days and the rule of
thumb are passing expediently as
more and more companies opt
to have their products stocked in
as many types of retail outlets as
possible in an attempt to obtain
greater sales quantities and, as
such, financial gain. By stocking
their products in various types of
outlets the products become
more visible to a greater range of
potential consumers and in-
crease sales as a direct result.
Greater sales equates to lower
cost as purchasing greater bulk
quantities of ingredients results
in the power to negotiate a bet-
The Natural Guru 2011
ter price from suppliers. In a fair
world this should mean a re-
duced price for consumers but in
reality it just means greater prof-
its for the company.
It also can no longer be stated
that the more you pay for a prod-
uct gives you an indication of the
quality as many companies now
price their products in accor-
dance to this concept and create
the status they want to achieve
for their brand and/or product.
A particular company may manu-
facture the same product with
maybe a very slight variation (if
any) that in no way alters the
viability of the product, retail it
under a different brand name
they have registered under the
company umbrella and alter the
retail price which can vary con-
siderably depending on the qual-
ity they have manufactured
through marketing for each par-
ticular brand they own. So, some-
one can be paying $X for the
product under one brand name
while another may be paying two,
three, four times that amount
because it is packaged under a
different brand.
Let’s face it any company, regard-
less of what they sell, is about
generating income for the com-
pany and its owners, after all that
is what business is all about. If
consumers start demanding
change in those products then
the company must alter and
deliver goods according to their
[consumers] wishes or lose in-
come. Market trends have a huge
impact on skin care and with
more and more people becoming
consciously aware of environ-
mental issues they are also be-
coming more engaged in the
V OL U ME 1, ISSU E 2
2011
Inside this issue:
Beauty Tips 2
desire for natural products. This
trend has seen the increase in Make up—Foundation 3
products that tout the inclusion Part 2
of extracts etc within their formu-
lations but buyers beware! - just Ingredients to avoid 4
because marketing is geared to- Part 2
wards the natural element in-
cluded does not mean it is a natu- Aromatherapy 5
Part 2
ral product; the addition of a
natural ingredient or two in a
D&M 6
formula does not mean that there
is an exclusion of chemical con-
coctions as well. Many of the
chemicals included in skin care
products have dire consequences
to the health of those that apply
them. In recent times the health
issues surrounding many of the
chemicals included in skin care
and cosmetic products has come
to light but companies are still
choosing to use them in their
formulas. This begs the question
“Why?’. The answer is simple, it is Special points of interest:
cheaper to not have to re-
 Price is not indicative of quality.
formulate or change what you
already have. What this means to  A promoted natural ingredient
consumers is that there may be doesn’t make the product All
more than a financial cost to pay! Natural.
In conclusion; where you pur-  Chemical concoctions in skin care
chase or the price you pay at the can cause health issues.
register is not necessarily indica-
tive of the quality of a product.
Consumers need to become more
enlightened about ingredients
and marketing tactics used to
generate interest and learn how
to read ingredient lists as well as
they have learned/are learning to
read nutritional panels of food to
ensure that what they are purchas-
ing is a healthier choice otherwise
they may be paying with their
health as well as their hard earned
money!
 Beauty Tips.
DIY Anti-ageing Regime
- Sacred Sage 2011
If botox and cosmetic surgery
aren't your style then perhaps
these DIY anti-ageing regime
guidelines will be just what
you need. A fusion of simple
yet effective tips and lifestyle
choices will make a difference
not only in how you look but
also in how you feel!
Energy and nutrient intake-
Make sure your diet is high in
wholegrains, fresh fruit, vegeta-
bles and oily fish and keep your
calorie, saturated fat, salt and
sugar intake down. Incorporate
foods that:
 are good sources of Vitamin E
and antioxidants
help to lower cholesterol
strengthen your immune and
digestive systems
rid the body of toxin build up.
Some top anti-ageing foods are:
berries (mainly blueberries and
blackberries), avocado, Crucifer-
ous vegetables (cabbage, broc-
coli, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts,
watercress), watermelon, ginger,
garlic and nuts (walnuts and
brazil).
Avoid caffeine, cigarettes,
alcohol and other drugs –
Simple remedies to These stimulants and toxins will
age you very quickly! A high
maintain a youthful intake of caffeine, alcohol and
nicotine inhibits the absorption of
calcium, dehydrates the body
appearance. (and the skin which is the first
sign of pre-mature ageing) puts
pressure on your liver and kid-
neys, damages vital organs and
contributes to and causes high
blood pressure and cancer.
Nothing beneficial there so if you
must indulge then make sure
your intake is kept in modera-
tion!
Water water water- it's an obvi-
ous one and one that we hear
about all the time. If your body is
constantly dehydrated then so is
your skin and internal dehydra-
tion leads to premature ageing of
the skin. Water makes up 70%
off our bodies so it is crucial for
optimum functioning. Don't just
drink when you're thirsty- aim for
1.5 – 2 litres of water daily and
more according to how much
you exercise.
Regular Detox- our bodies are
constantly exposed to and are
absorbing pollutants, stress, bad
eating and sleeping habits, poor
posture and lack of exercise.
Over time the combined effect of
this mental and physical toxicity
can lead to different ailments
Page 2
and health issues from head-
aches to heart disease. Detoxing
the body on a regular basis can
greatly assist the removal of
harmful toxins and allow your
body and mind to function at
optimum levels. There are so
many detox programs to choose
from and it is usually best that
you choose one that fits with
your lifestyle and doesn't inter-
fere with your health conditions.
Supplement if necessary – if
your food intake doesn't provide
your body with what it needs,
supplements can provide the
body with the nutrients it is lack-
ing. Some of the most recom-
mended anti-aging supplements
are:
Green Tea Extract – one of the
most powerful and naturally
occurring anti-oxidants
Vitamin E – powerful antioxi-
dant
CoQ10- for energy production
and antioxidant protection
Omega 3 Fatty Acids- cannot
be made by the body and are
essential for brain, heart and
circulatory health
Grapeseed extract – powerful
antioxidant that protects living
tissue and aids circulation
Protect your skin from the sun
- Sun damage is the number one
contributing factor into premature
ageing as it leads to photo-aging-
a process that produces deep
wrinkles, leathery textured skin
and age spots. Wear sunscreen
daily even when the sun is not
out!
Drink Green Tea – cutting back
on the caffeine and replacing it
with Green Tea will provide you
with multiple anti-ageing and
health benefits. It's already been
mentioned that Green Tea is a
powerful anti-oxidant but it has
also be shown to protect against
cancer, build resistance to heart
disease and dementia and con-
tribute to the body’s ability to
burn fat.
Anti- ageing skin care – Select
anti-ageing skincare that is good
for your skin. Look for natural
and organic products that are
formulated with powerful natu-
rally occurring anti-ageing ingre-
dients. Moisturizing is most im-
portant as it will provide the skin
with essential hydration, nourish-
ment and protection from further
free radical damage. Exfoliate
twice a week for optimum cell
regeneration, youthful skin ap-
pearance and to allow maximum
absorption of your moisturizer
and other product applications.
Exercise more – Exercise
should be a core part of any an
anti-ageing regime. The benefits
of exercising are too numerous
to list but as an overall picture
you will have more energy, in-
creased muscle mass and bone
strength, reduced stress levels
and it will help to prevent high
blood pressure. As far anti-
ageing skin benefits go- blood
flow to your skin is increased
which increases the delivery of
nutrients and oxygen to your
skin cells making for a healthy
and youthful skin.
Get adequate beauty sleep –
When you sleep your body re-
leases growth hormone which
stimulates cell turnover so get-
ting enough sleep is one of the
most important factors not only
for a healthy well balanced life
but also for it's strong anti-
ageing effects on the inner and
outer body. Continual lack of
sleep will most certainly age you
at a very fast rate.
Stress relieving activities –
Stress has become part of al-
most everyone's daily life with
social and economic pressures
all around us. Stress hormones
are very damaging as they sup-
press the immune system and
accelerate the ageing process.
While it is almost impossible to
remove stress from your life
entirely it is possible to perform
activities that are stress reliev-
ing. Whether it be meditation,
yoga, pilates, massage, sweat-
ing it out in the sauna or at the
gym, walking, a bath, reading, a
facial or just getting some fresh
air everyone should incorporate
some enjoyable stress relieving
activities into their lives.
Volume 1, issue 2
 Make yourself over Part 2 – Foundation
- Sacred Sage 2011
Foundation is like the mix-
ture for a delicious cake- get
it wrong and the whole thing
is a flop! It all starts with the
selection of ingredients and
then continues with the
blending process. Pick the
correct foundation for your
skin and you are on your
way to a flawless finish!
1. P icking the correct foun-
dation for your skin type:
There are many different foun-
dation formulations to choose
from which can sometimes
cause confusion and result in
the incorrect choice for your
skin type.
Tinted moisturizer – A very
light coverage as it is moistur-
izer combined with a hint of
colour to even out skin tone
and give the skin a dewy ap-
pearance. Suitable for Normal
or Normal to Dry skins and for
those who want minimal cover-
age.
Liquid Foundation - Usually
a medium coverage though
smudge proof formulations can
provide a full coverage. Easy to
Colour Selection & Application...
2. Choosing the correct
shade for your skin tone:
Ensure you pick the foundation
shade that best suits your natu-
ral skin tone by doing a founda-
tion test. It is best to do this in
store or at a cosmetic counter.
All you need is a few minutes,
a mirror, some natural or fluo-
rescent lighting and your skin
to be free from foundation and
powder:
Choose 3 or 4 foundations that
appear to look closest to your
natural skin tone. Do this by
looking at the bottle (if clear) or
testing them on your hand. Go
for yellow based tones to give
warmth or if you have fair skin
select pink (cool) based tones.
Apply a stroke of each founda-
tion in vertical lines from your
mid cheek to your upper neck
and leave at least a 1 cm gap
between each line. Make sure
you only use a small amount of
foundation for each line so it
can be slightly absorbed into
your skin. Applying a thick
layer will not give you a correct
result.
Once you have applied the 3-4
different foundations in lines
Beauty Exposé
apply and coverage can be
dictated by the amount of foun-
dation you use. Oily skins
should select a thicker or
smudge proof formulation and
dry skins should select a thin-
ner consistency. Some compa-
nies will indicate the skin type
most suited to the product on
the box or bottle.
Mousse/Whipped Foundation
– Available in containers, bot-
tles and spray aerosol type
cans. Provides a light to me-
dium coverage depending on
how much product you apply.
Suitable for Normal, Dry and
Ageing skins as the smooth
airy texture doesn't cling to
lines and dry areas of skin.
Cream to Powder Founda-
tions – Provides a full cover-
age in one step (no need for
powder application) Goes on
like a liquid and dries like a
powder for long wearing and
durable coverage. Comes in a
variety of compacts and tubes
and is most suitable for combi-
nation skins and those wanting
a full coverage that is long
lasting.
allow them to settle for a min-
ute and then stand back from
the mirror. Take a good look for
the foundation that has
'disappeared' into your skin.
This will be the correct founda-
tion shade for your skin as it
has blended in so well that you
can barely see it.
Tips: Artificial lighting can be
very deceiving and different to
that of natural day light, so if
you are unsure as to which
colour has blended in the best
take another look in a mirror
outside.
3. Applying you r founda-
tion:
Now that you have the perfect
foundation for your skin type
and tone applying it should be
the easy part:
Apply your moisturizer (and
sunscreen) and if possible wait
10 minutes before applying
your foundation.
Apply an even layer of founda-
tion and blend well into your
skin by using the most suitable
application method:
Foundation Sticks – Very
similar to a cream to powder
foundation and provides a
medium to full coverage. Suit-
able for most skin types though
dry skins may find some formu-
lations cling to dry areas.
Mineral Make-up – A very
popular choice these days as
we have become more aware
of the toxic ingredients used in
cosmetics. Coverage is de-
pendent upon how many layers
you choose to apply so can
provide a light, medium or full
coverage. Suitable for all skin
types especially Sensitive skins
and those with allergies. Oily Tips: Look for words and
skins may find that some min- phrases on the foundation
eral make up will not give them packaging to help select the
the lasting power they desire. right one for your skin. If your
Be aware that a lot of commer- skin is oily look for “oil free”, “oil
cial cosmetic companies 'claim' control” or “long wearing”. If
to have a mineral make-up but your skin is dry look for
a lot of the time it is just a mar- “moisture rich” or “hydrating”
keting campaign. For a true and if you have combination
mineral make-up- find a brand skin then decide whether your
or company that specializes in skin is more oily or more dry
mineral make-up, natural or and choose your foundation
organic cosmetics. according to that.
Fingers – a quick and easy
application that allows you to
be in control.
Sponge - great for an even
application but can absorb a lot
of your foundation causing
wastage and can sometimes
leave sponge marks on your
skin.
Foundation Brush – gives you
an even and professional appli-
cation and doesn't absorb the
foundation but can leave brush
marks.
Finish with the application of
translucent powder
Note: Concealer can be ap-
plied before and/or after foun-
dation.
Tips: Try using a foundation
brush to apply your foundation
and then use a sponge to blot
over any brush marks. You
can also use your fingers to
blend crevice areas like the
nose.
Always check the hairline,
neck, nose and eye areas and
blend blend blend!
Page 3
 Ingredients to avoid. Part 2
- The Natural Guru 2011

In the last issue of skin allergies and used to render cos-

Beauty Exposé we have the potential to metic preparations
looked at; be a carcinogen. free of microbial ac-
Mineral oil; Propylene tivity. This preserva-
Glycol; Parabens. tive can also find its
If you would like to AHA'S way into the blood
read up on these go Citric, Glycolic, Lactic stream and vital or-
to our website ar- and Malic acids, used gans of the body
chives for the pdf of to remove the outer were its carcinogenic
issue 1. layer of the skin. properties may take
Used as a means of hold. It can also
We are now going to diminishing fine line cause skin sensitivity
take a look at a few and wrinkles and of- and irritation.
more ingredients ten included in cos-
used quite commonly metics designed for
in cosmetic products daily use. Used as a Ethanol
but which can prove facial treatment once This alcohol can
detrimental to your to twice yearly may cause severe skin
skin, health or both. prove somewhat irritation for people
beneficial but when with already sensitive
Triethanolamine used on a daily basis skin. Its very nature
(TEA) can prove to be detri- enables it to dehy-
TEA is used in cos- mental to the skin by drate the skin and
metics as an emulsi- causing freckling, sun cause the appear-
fier, Ph adjuster and spots and even lead- ance of fine lines and
Be careful of daily use
preservative. It is se- ing to skin cancers as wrinkles. Over pro-
products containing verely irritating to the the skin is more sen- longed contact with
skin and considered a sitive to the UV rays the skin, as in daily
AHA’s. possible carcinogenic because it no longer use via a cosmetic
(as may be contami- has the outer shell of preparation contain-
nated with nitrosa- the skin for protec- ing this ingredient,
mines). Can cause tion. It can also lead the skin can develop
allergic reactions, eye to increased sensitiv- sensitivity and be-
irritations and it has a ity of the skin and come irritated and
very drying effect on may result in red- red.
the skin, so can ness, soreness and
cause flakiness. skin irritation. The
very reason it is used,
anti-ageing by reduc-
SLES & SLS tion of lines and wrin-
(Sodium laureth sul- kles, can be exacer-
phate and Sodium bated with long term
lauryl sulphate) continuous use even
These are used to in small doses. Become enlightened!
create the foam in
body washes and Imadazolidinyl urea For more information
shampoos. They can Is one of the most on cosmetic ingredi-
cause irritation to the commonly used pre- ents used in your skin
eye, skin rashes, servatives (even in care go to;
scurf on the scalp baby products), next www.cosmeticsdatab
(similar to dandruff), to parabens. It is ase.com
Page 4 Volume 1, issue 2
 Aromatherapy— using essential oils around the home. Part 2
- The Natural Guru 2011
Choosing essential oils.
Knowing the prop-
erties of essential
oils is important
so that better
choices can be
made and good
results obtained.
This knowledge
can be obtained
by reading their properties in books, finding
information online and talking with others
who are ahead of you on this journey of
discovery. Many essential oils have similar
properties and may cause a little confusion
initially as to which oil is the best but given
time you will find it easier to make your
choice as you become more familiar with the
oils and the symptoms or conditions they
treat.
If a diagnosis of a condition has been made
by a qualified person then many books will
list the oil/s for that specific condition and
make choosing easier. If an actual diagnosis
is not required or has not been done pres-
ently, looking at the symptoms and matching
those symptoms to the properties of the
essential oils is the first step in determining
your choice. It is a good idea to have a ref-
erence guide on hand until you become
really familiar with the oils, even then you
will still find you have need for reference
material. Always, always check the safety of
the essential oils for the recipient by ensur-
ing there are no conditions present in the
person to which the essential oils are con-
traindicated.
Even with reference material on hand you
need to look at possible causes when treat-
ing conditions as you don't want to exacer-
bate a possible cause of the condition you
are addressing. An example to explain this
further would be;
If someone is anxious and/or stressed and
suffering a headache as a result of this then
it is not wise to use an oil that can be used
to treat the headache if it is also a stimulat-
ing oil as this will only exacerbate the anxi-
ety and stress level. It would be wiser to use
an oil that will calm the mind and body while
addressing the headache.
The body itself can give direction on better
choices as it will naturally be drawn to an oil
by smelling it. This may sound a little absurd
but the mind and body will distinguish prop-
erties when inhaling the evaporating oil and
prefer the oil/s which suit its need/s, evident
by the person preferring the aroma of the oil/
s which will give the best results for them.
When a person rejects the 'smell' of an oil it
is important to be able to choose another oil
to replace it or, indeed, another oil that can
be used with it to enhance its properties. In
the case of adding another oil for enhance-
ment the person then needs to be able to
smell both oils together rather than as indi-
vidual oils. Simply holding the oils under the
Beauty Exposé
nose and moving them back and forth
while inhaling will allow enough blending
of the evaporating oils to achieve a re-
sponse and determine suitability. It is
important to note here that any oil disliked
for its aroma today may find favour at a
later date as it's suitability for a different
issue can alter the perception of whether
or not the aroma is found pleasant.
Not only can essential oils be used for the
mind, body and spirit but they can also be
used around the home to enhance clean-
ing while still imparting their beautiful
aromas into the rooms where they are
used. Again, reading and learning the
properties of the essential oils will aid
your choice of oil for each job at hand.
Some oils are antiseptic and so can be
used when washing down benches or
floors or even cleaning the bathroom and
toilet, others, like eucalyptus, can help
remove sticky or oily residue, etc.
However you choose to use oils at home
the beginning to making the correct
choice for the 'job' at hand means a jour-
ney into the properties of the oils first so
that correct and better choices can be
made. It is not all about the aroma!
Blending oils
There are specific oils that are known to
work well with each other as they can
create a 'synergistic blend' if used to-
gether. What this means is that when two
or more oils are blended together they
can create a more potent oil to treat a
specific issue, referred to as a synergistic
blend (when the sum of the whole is
greater than its parts). So, if an oil is
known to 'work well with' another oil with
the same properties desired for the issue
being addressed blending them together
can create a better result. It is not wise to
think that you can find and use half a
dozen oils with the property you desire
and that are classified as 'working well'
with each to create a super powered
blend. Too many oils with the same prop-
erty in a single blend can create problems
and may even negate the power; i.e. have
a negative effect and make a less potent
blend. The rule of thumb to employ here
is “3 or 4 but never more”, meaning using
no more than 3-4 oils with the same prop-
erty to treat a single specific issue.
It is possible to blend several oils together
that will treat different symptoms, e.g. a
headache, tiredness and slight nausea.
Some oils will treat some of the conditions
and then others can be added to treat the
rest or create a synergy to treat one or
more of the symptoms (Peppermint will
aid the headache, tiredness and nausea,
Ginger will help with tiredness and nau-
sea and Rosemary can help with head-
aches and tiredness), creating different
synergies within one blend.
When blending oils for use in a burner to
create an atmosphere rather than treat-
ing a specific ailment/condition then you
have to consider the notes of the oils so
that the blend will have balance. Each
oil evaporates at a given rate and ac-
cording to this rate of evaporation the
oil is considered a top note (quickest to
evaporate), a middle note (evaporates
less quickly and offers body to a blend)
or a base note (slowest to evaporate
and helps lock all notes together). A
good blend will contain all of these
notes. It is a bit like writing a story; top
notes are the introduction and give an
indication of what is to come, middle
notes are the body of the story, intro-
ducing and developing characters,
emotions and intrigue and the base
notes are the ending bringing the story
to a gratifying close.
When blending oils to burn to create an
atmosphere choose oils from each note
with the properties to achieve a suitable
feeling for the occasion (an example;
Sweet Orange (top note) lifts the mind
and spirits, Geranium (middle note) is
known to encourage communication
between strangers, an excellent choice
for any occasion where everyone does
not know each other and Sandalwood
(base note) is relaxing).
Base notes are the least quantity in the
blend, Top notes next and the body of
the blend will be the greatest in quan-
tity. (There is always some controversy
with regards to quantities but we are not
trying to make a perfect perfume here
just put together a good workable blend
of essential oils – creating our own
story.)
It is always advisable to create a blend
like this a few days in advance so that
the aromas can have time to perfectly
blend together. If you smell a blend
straight after making it the aroma will be
different than if it is left for a couple of
days. A blend needs time to mature.
Making it in advance also gives you the
chance to add another oil/s to the blend
to improve the aroma (if desired).
It is always wise to keep a note of es-
sential oils used and in what quantity
should you desire to re-create the blend
at a later date.
In our next edition of Beauty Exposé we
will look at essential oil dilution ratios.
Page 5
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