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Carol Deptolla | Dining Critic

Follow your bliss at Top 30 restaurants

By Carol Deptolla of the Journal Sentinel

Posted: Sept. 13, 2009

I get a buzz from great restaurants.

Maybe you get it, too. It's that feeling of bliss by meal's end - warmth, happiness, pure satisfaction.

The most important element, always, is the food. It's deeply flavorful, tastes fresh and often is
attractively presented. Some plates deliver a special joy and engagement when the chef's creativity is
plain to see - not in curlicues of sauces, but in juxtapositions of flavors and ingredients that perhaps
wouldn't have occurred to a mere left-brain mortal.

But excellence doesn't stop there with the best restaurants. They have servers who help make it an
evening to remember. As any diner knows, service can make or break a meal. Terrible service can
overshadow good food, and excellent service can enhance a spectacular dinner, even rescue a kitchen
on a bumpy night.

The best servers go beyond the basics. With a glance, they see whether a table needs utensils replaced,
for example, or more cream for coffee even before the diners realize it, sometimes doing their work so
unobtrusively that diners notice only the result, not the action.

They're entirely knowledgeable about the menu, but if stumped by a question, they learn the answer
instead of shrugging it off.

As I dined at dozens of area restaurants, I encountered some servers who needed more training, or who
were aloof and distant, their demeanor indifferent and their minds elsewhere. But I encountered many
more truly excellent servers - a number of them at restaurants not on this list - who paid attention to
detail and treated guests as though serving them were their greatest pleasure.

At the best restaurants, ambience plays a key role, too. A dining room doesn't have to undergo a
six-figure design job or be outfitted with the newest, most formal furnishings. But generally it has to be
clean and in good repair. And ultimately it reinforces what a restaurant aims to project with its menu
and fosters a pleasant feeling, be it relaxing or stimulating.

This list of restaurants isn't necessarily an indictment of ones that were omitted. I visited many good
restaurants where I would quite happily dine again. I also visited many that need some work. Some
new restaurants in particular were strong contenders for this year's Top 30 - especially ones that
capture the zeitgeist with moderately priced menus, farm-fresh ingredients and creative cooking - but
need a little more time to polish their edges.

This list, like a review, is a snapshot. It captures my view of the restaurants at a moment in time,
through the lens of my visits. Restaurants I had reviewed were revisited to see whether they had
improved, slipped or stayed the same; restaurants I haven't yet reviewed - but which had been by my
predecessor - were visited twice, or more, if they showed potential to earn a Top 30 slot.

No doubt you have your own top 30 list. The restaurants on mine presented the clearest pictures to me
of what's notable about dining in 2009 in Milwaukee, where food, service and atmosphere worked
together to provide me that moment of bliss.

Bacchus

925 E. Wells St., in the Cudahy Tower. (414) 765-1166; bacchusmke.com

An elegant menu matches the elegant space that Bacchus inhabits, where you're as likely to see
business as you are romance conducted at a nearby table. Dishes on the regular menu and tasting menu
by executive chef Adam Siegel - with Andrew Ruiz his chef de cuisine - are things of beauty with
layers of flavors. The results often are stunning, as in an appetizer of perfectly seared, sweet scallops
on frisée lettuce in citrus vinaigrette, matched with warmed honeydew and cantaloupe. From the front
door to the table, the staff at the Bartolotta restaurant is hospitable.

Hours: 5:30-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5-10 pm Friday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées, $24-$42. Payment:
MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Café Manna

3815 N. Brookfield Road, Brookfield, in Sendik's Towne Centre. (262) 790-2340; cafemanna.com

Calming colors and clean lines send out a soothing vibe when diners enter Robin Kasch's fully
vegetarian restaurant. But there's excitement on the plates in global flavors and wonderfully fresh
ingredients, many of them organic and, during the growing season, obtained locally. Meals begin with
irresistible coconut-cashew hummus. I'm especially fond of sandwiches here, such as the grilled herb
eggplant and tofu served with excellent whipped celeriac and Yukon gold potatoes. With new chef
Deryl McCauley, the menu will be revised for winter with more upscale offerings, Kasch said. Full
review
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées, $8.95-$16.25. Payment: MasterCard, Visa,
Discover.

Crazy Water

839 S. 2nd St. (414) 645-2606; crazywaterrestaurant.com

The contemporary American food turned out from the tiny kitchen at the front of chef-owner Peggy
Magister's restaurant always seems to hit the mark, both in preparation and flavor - as in succulent
chicken with mushroom sauce, tender but firm potato gratin and just-right green beans, or in creamy
maple cheesecake with a reduced maple sauce. Daily specials here can be tantalizing. It's often crazy
busy at Crazy Water - service can get a bit backed up, and the Walker's Point bistro can feel crowded
(if you've sat right inside the door, you know what I mean). But it's a cozy bistro that above all serves
glorious, satisfying food.

Hours: 5-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées, $19-$28 Payment:
MasterCard, Visa, American Express.

Dream Dance Steak

1721 W. Canal St., in Potawatomi Bingo Casino. (414) 847-7883; paysbig.com/dining/dreamdance

Dream Dance this year became Dream Dance Steak. Although the focus on steak largely has replaced
the broadly inventive menu of chef Jason Gorman's new Wisconsin cuisine, elements remain, and
flashes of Gorman's creativity come through. The food still is excellent. Buttermilk fried-clam
chowder is out of this world, and so is the Kobe beef "butter" - renderings with herbs whipped to look
like butter. And where else can you order kangaroo cured in ginger ale? (Not so different from beef,
but lighter in flavor.) The wait staff no longer works in teams, so service doesn't feel as pampering as
before, but it's welcoming and efficient. Look for a new seasonal menu in October. Full review

Hours: 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées, $20-market for
imported Kobe beef; most steaks, $32-$48. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Eddie Martini's

8612 W. Watertown Plank Road, Wauwatosa. (414) 771-6680; eddiemartinis.com

The clubby atmosphere is just right for this steakhouse owned by the De Rosa Corp. of Wauwatosa;
swellegant, you could say. It never steals the show from the plates, though - the spotlight rightly
belongs on chef Jason Tofte's dishes, such as the appetizer of duck breast served alongside caramelized
onion tart; the sweetness of blueberry compote is a dream with the smoked meat. Steaks such as New
York strip are perfectly prepared and boast good flavor. And there's no better end to a meal than a cup
of Eddie's rich coffee and the chocolate banana cake for dessert, served by attentive staff.

Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 5-8 p.m.
Sunday. Prices: Dinner entrées, $22-$69; most steaks are $25-$46. Payment: MasterCard, Visa,
American Express, Discover.

Ethiopian Cottage Restaurant

1824 N. Farwell Ave. (414) 224-5226; ethiopiancottage.com

I crave Ethiopian stews, especially in fall and winter, and especially Ethiopian Cottage's. Traditional
dishes cooked from scratch hold deeply savory, well-developed flavors - in tender beef alicha wat;
slightly spicy doro wat with chicken legs, in the buttery yebeg tibs, or sautéed lamb; and in the fresh
tilapia in assa tibs, from a menu that has expanded since I reviewed the restaurant. And I like
Ethiopian Cottage's wide selection of vegetarian dishes. You've heard of small plates; well, this is big
plates - a table's entrées are served communally on one large platter, atop the crepe-like bread called
injera. It's just plain fun. Servers are helpful in navigating the menu - one of them might be co-owner
Yigletu Debebe. Full review

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Thursday-Saturday; 3-9 p.m.
Sunday. Prices: Entrées, $10.50-$14.75. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, Discover.

Hinterland

222 E. Erie St. (414) 727-9300; hinterlandbeer.com

Dinner is a thrill ride at Hinterland, where the contemporary American menu with far-flung flavors is
imaginative and based on the seasons, the fish is super-fresh, and seasonal produce grown or foraged
in Wisconsin. The menu is printed daily, and on it guests often will find ingredients or combinations
not found elsewhere in Milwaukee; Hinterland is a must-dine for foodies. I've enjoyed seared spanner
crab with tatsoi salad here, among other dishes. Executive chef Dan Van Rite and sous chef Ben Fairly
turn out dishes that seek both balance and provocation for the taste buds. A modern, sparely elegant
dining room and attentive, polished and well-versed servers contribute to the satisfying experience.
Full review

Hours: Dining room, 5-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday; main bar and lounge, 4 p.m.-close Monday-
Saturday. Prices: Entrées, $26-$38 in dining room; bar menu, $4-$14. Payment: MasterCard, Visa,
American Express, Discover.

Jake's

21445 W. Gumina Road, Pewaukee, off I-94. (262) 781-7995; jakes-restaurant.com

Certainly, Jake's has the excellent steakhouse dishes that built its reputation - haystack onion rings,
superb steaks such as a juicy New York strip, tender roast duck. But creative seasonal specials with
impeccable flavors pique my interest on each return trip to chef Jake and Karen Replogle's rustic
restaurant. This summer I enjoyed zucchini blossoms filled with mozzarella and Italian sausage, fried
in a thin, crisp batter; sweet corn soup with bacon and chives; and seared fresh scallops topped with
smoked salmon and set on fried green tomatoes, an inspired match.
Hours: 5:30-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5:30-9:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées,
$18.95-$39.95. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover, Diners Club.

Karl Ratzsch's

320 E. Mason St. (414) 276-2720; www.karlratzsch.com

Dining at Ratzsch's, especially on Friday and Saturday nights when waltzes and standards flow from
the baby grand and the room buzzes with chatter, you can feel part of an unbroken Milwaukee
tradition since 1904. Chef and co-owner John Poulos' menu offers lighter dishes, too, but with fall and
winter coming, I say bring on the substantial German entrées. A new generation of chefs is discovering
the glories of pork, but Ratzsch's has been serving uncommon cuts for decades, as in the crackling
pork shank, with the most intoxicating, delicious aroma. Rich goose is another standout on the menu.

Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday; dinner, 4:30-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 4:30-10
p.m. Friday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées, $14.50-$35.95 Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express,
Discover.

La Merenda

125 E. National Ave. (414) 389-0125; lamerenda125.com

A number of restaurants serve small plates, but no one does it better than La Merenda. These
international tapas take diners on a delicious world tour, from Spain (patatas bravas y chorizo) to the
Philippines (the noodle dish pancit), Indonesia (sambal goreng udang, shrimp with ginger and coconut
milk) to Wisconsin (local trout in brown butter). A special pleasure comes during the growing season,
when chef-owner Peter Sandroni incorporates local produce in his dishes. The crème brûlée just may
be the best in town. Count on savvy service. Full review

Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-
Saturday; bar open later. Prices: Small plates, $4-$9.25 Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American
Express, Discover.

Lagniappe Brasserie

17001 W. Greenfield Ave., New Berlin. (262) 782-7530; lagniappebrasserie.com

Chef-owner Andrew Tenaglia's cooking is grounded in French cuisine, but he ventures far afield. His
sense of adventure makes dining here fun, and his flavors make it delicious, as in a well-seasoned
Scotch broth with free-range lamb, barley and lavender, a mushroom ragout of hen-of-the-woods,
cream and tarragon, or wild boar tenderloin in crisp puff pastry with Madeira sauce. Occasional
midweek prix fixe dinners - often three courses for a bargain $19 or so - are inspired by countries or
regions, like Switzerland or Sardinia, and even other eras, like ancient Rome. The regular menu
changes every few days, and in summer, produce from the on-site garden appears in dishes.
Professional, attentive service puts an extra luster on dining here.
Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner, 5-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Prices: Dinner
entrées, $16-$30. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Lake Park Bistro

3133 E. Newberry Blvd. (414) 962-6300; lakeparkbistro.com

Sophisticated service, lovely surroundings - oh, and a view of Lake Michigan for some lucky tables.
There are many reasons to visit Lake Park Bistro. Foremost is the elegantly presented French fare with
refined flavors by executive chef Adam Siegel with his chef de cuisine, Brian Kennedy, such as duck
confit on green lentils, or perfect grilled lamb chops with mustard sauce. It's always worth checking
out the changing chef's menu at this Bartolotta restaurant; in late spring, seasonal soft-shell crab and
Copper River salmon were the reward, and recently it featured heirloom tomatoes.

Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner. 5:30-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5:30-10 p.m.
Friday; 5-10 p.m. Saturday; 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-8:30 p.m. Sunday. Prices: Dinner entrées,
$21-$49 Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Le Reve Patisserie & Cafe

7610 Harwood Ave., Wauwatosa. (414) 778-3333; lerevecafe.com

It looks like a vintage Parisian bistro, this young casual café in the Tosa village. And chef Bryan
Phillips turns out French dishes with a practiced hand, such as delicious grilled lamb loin with creamy,
tender dauphinoise potatoes and pomegranate sauce, or a special of beautifully fresh halibut in garlic
broth. Fresh salads, soups and sandwiches fill out the menu. And I swear, one of these days I'm going
to make a meal - first, second and third courses - of the gorgeous, dreamy pastries, confections and
other baked goods by owners Therese Hittman and Andy Schneider filling the case, such as the Swiss
meringue-covered dome of mango mousse with coconut gelee inside, treasure within treasure. Full
review

Hours: 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées,

$13.95-$20.95. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, Discover.

Mason Street Grill

425 E. Mason St., at the Pfister Hotel. (414) 298-3131; masonstreetgrill.com

With its dark wood and contemporary, dimmed lighting, Mason Street Grill makes a classy setting for
everything from sandwiches and salads to wood-grilled steaks, like the dandy bone-in rib-eye (have it
with creamy, garlicky Delmonico potatoes). But with Mark Weber as executive chef, remembered for
his notable though short-lived Watermark seafood restaurant, it's a great idea to order fish. Be it trout, a
halibut special or the signature fried surf clams, the quality is first-rate. Maggie Haller is the chef de
cuisine. Servers generally are very good; some can miss on the details but are eager to please guests.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 5-9 p.m. Sunday. Prices:
Dinner entrées, $10-$48 Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Maxie's Southern Comfort

6732 W. Fairview Ave. (414) 292-3969; maxies.com

The atmosphere is lively at Maxie's, and so are the flavors. The menu takes its inspiration from the
vast range of Southern styles and ingredients. Consider excellent dishes by chef Joe Muench such as
pecan-crusted trout fillets with sweet potato, fennel and potato hash, or daily specials such as tender
veal medallions with brown butter and capers. You can't get oysters in Milwaukee any fresher or more
fabulous than at Maxie's, and you'll want to save room for dessert. I don't think of the menu as strictly
authentic - the sweet cornbread seems more Northern to me, for one thing. But flavors are big, and
from the door to the table, service was great - welcoming, intent on pleasing and detail-oriented. It's
worth waiting for a table. Full review

Hours: 4-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 4-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 4-9 p.m. Sunday. Prices: Entrées,
$9.95-$22.95. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Meritage

5921 W. Vliet St. (414) 479-0620; meritage.us

Chef-owner Jan Kelly enriches Milwaukee's dining scene with her creative, globally influenced menus
that flow with the seasons, with fresh produce and meats - pork, chicken, buffalo - often obtained from
local sources. Flavors are spot-on, as in a moist grilled pork chop with barbacoa sauce and sweet
potato salad, or a lamb pizza appetizer with feta, eggplant and romesco sauce. Vegetarians will always
find an entrée on the menu for them. Kelly's daily specials are beguiling, and usually include fish and a
vegetarian option as well. Service is friendly and efficient. The contemporary dining room is a
pleasant, cozy space, but in warm weather, the charming backyard patio beckons. Full review

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées, $12-$20. Payment:
MasterCard, Visa, Discover.

Mr. B's

17700 W. Capitol Drive, Brookfield, in Stonewood Village. (262) 790-7005; mrbssteakhouse.com

Meat is the star here, a Bartolotta steakhouse: With a great crust from the high heat of the
wood-burning oven, steaks and chops are supremely juicy and flavorful. Quite simply, they're
phenomenal; you can count on it. Start with calamari; it's the classic Bartolotta recipe, with garlic,
mint and pecorino cheese. On the side, it's a tough call between the perfectly fluffy baked potato and a
lovely potato puree. Service here is professional and attentive. I did wish, though, for more
comfortable chairs and an easier hand with the salt in side dishes.

Hours: 5:30-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5:30-10 p.m. Friday; 5-10 p.m. Saturday; 5-8 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Entrées, $19.95-$70.95, with steaks $21.95-$43.95. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American
Express, Discover.

Nanakusa

408 E. Chicago St. (414) 223-3200; dinenanakusa.com

I feel downright euphoric after dining at Richard Kaiser and Yoko Kawamura's contemporary Japanese
restaurant, made giddy by perfectly fresh fish and creative small-plate specials from chef de cuisine
Ian Somerville. Shiromaguro, with seared albacore sashimi like pure sea air, crisp, browned onion and
basil-ponzu sauce, is fantastic, but then is outdone by hotate, a beautiful plate of sliced scallops dabbed
with chile sauce and cilantro, ringing Japanese cucumber in the pine-citrus tang of yuzu, topped with a
mountain peach. But proteins from the land are not to be missed, such as the pan-seared duck breast
with fig and micro frites, and skewers of pork belly sprinkled with sea salt and broiled until crisp.

Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; dinner 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday. Prices: Special small plates, $6-$19.50 Payment: MasterCard, Visa,
American Express, Discover.

North Star American Bistro

4515 N. Oakland Ave., Shorewood, (414) 964-4663; 19115 W. Capitol Drive, Brookfield, in Sendik's
Towne Centre, (262) 754-1515; northstarbistro.com

These restaurants by Duffy O'Neil and Mike Stoner are as adept at serving a casual weeknight supper
as a special weekend dinner, in comfortable, contemporary settings with very good, attentive service.
If I want a burger, North Star's is a tasty, juicy half-pounder; for a comforting dinner, I'll take the
super-moist roast chicken; and if I want a good steak at less-than-steakhouse prices, I'll get the
flavorful sirloin served au poivre.

Hours: Shorewood, 4:30-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 4:30-9 p.m. Sunday. Lunch hours expected to
begin this fall. Brookfield, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. Prices: Dinner
entrées, $9.95-$25.95. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Osteria del Mondo

1028 E. Juneau Ave., in the Knickerbocker Hotel. (414) 291-3770; getosteria.com

At 15, Marc Bianchini's Osteria del Mondo is making some changes, starting today, with a new prix
fixe menu of Italian cuisine, at three price points. Diners will choose from three appetizers, three pasta
and risotto dishes, three fish dishes, three meat dishes and three desserts that will change monthly.
While the new menu remains to be judged, of course, executive chef Thi Cao still leads the kitchen,
and he crafts sublime dishes for diners that are well-prepared and well-flavored. This summer, they
included an appetizer of duck breast with sautéed peaches and an entrée of red snapper over fresh corn,
green bean and red bell pepper succotash. With Cao in the kitchen, and with the same outstanding,
pampering service in comfortable environs, I'm betting Osteria will remain one of Milwaukee's best
restaurants.
Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5:30-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Prices: New menu, $25 for
three courses, $35 for four, $50 for five, or a la carte. Payment: MasterCard, Visa and American
Express.

River Lane Inn

4313 W. River Lane, Brown Deer. (414) 354-1995.

You could order meat at River Lane Inn, but with a wide selection of seafood dishes, why would you?
The calamari appetizer is excellent, with tender, sweet squid fried crisp and served with lemon butter
sauce. Delicate sand dabs are popular here, and with good reason. Look for chef Michael Kusch's
blackboard daily specials, such as grouper in tarragon cream sauce, that supplement the standing
menu. For dessert, blackberry-Cabernet sorbet is a good bet. My coffee tasted scorched, but that's
easily solved with thermal carafes. Service is efficient and always welcoming here. Nooks for more
private seating are available, and the patio is popular in summer.

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées, $18.25-$36.75 Payment: MasterCard, Visa,
American Express

The Riversite

11120 N. Cedarburg Road, Mequon. (262) 242-6050.

This year, with new owner Corey Schultz and longtime chef Thomas Peschong, specials change
weekly, the menu of classics changes quarterly and small plates are offered on Tuesday nights.
Changes aside, Riversite remains a destination for people interested in seasonal dining, such as the
spring delicacies of morels and fiddleheads. Flavors are full and pleasing, as in monkfish wrapped in
bacon; classical technique is evident in silken duck liver mousse terrine. Entrées come with soup or
house salad, but try a salad from the menu; they're a delight, as when Peschong combines arugula and
warm peach slices with prosciutto and brown butter, sweet and peppery. Full review

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Prices: Entrées, $18-$42; Tuesday small plates, $4-$8. Payment:
MasterCard, Visa, American Express.

Ristorante Bartolotta

7616 W. State St., Wauwatosa. (414) 771-7910; ristorantebartolotta.com

Executive chef Juan Urbieta's delightful Italian dishes are delicious from beginning to end: consider
condiments of red wine gelee and marinated plum for a cheese plate, rich duck ragu with pappardelle
pasta, a half boneless hen that's crisp outside and moist within, and creamy vanilla panna cotta with
passion fruit puree and sugared cherries. And I always look forward to the ever-changing seasonal
menu of specials; a delicate nettle-spinach custard with mortadella-pâté crostino in spring is still on
my mind. Knowledgeable, attentive servers are an added pleasure.

Hours: 5:30-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5:30-10 p.m. Friday; 5-10 p.m. Saturday; 5-8 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: $17-$36. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Roots

1818 N. Hubbard St. (414) 374-8480; rootsmilwaukee.com

It's an engaging menu at chef-owner John Raymond's Roots, where the dishes all sound so interesting,
it's hard for me to choose. Consider the specials, too, which incorporate fresh-from-the-farm produce
in the growing season. This summer I was dazzled by an appetizer of fresh, herb-crusted sardine fillets
with a sweet-savory tomato ragout; Spanish potato soup with meat from suckling pig; and summer
vegetable gratin from executive chef Paul Zerkel's kitchen. The wait staff is smart and personable -
most seem to be foodies - and the view of the city skyline from the contemporary dining room and the
patio in Brewers Hill is truly magnificent.

Hours: Restaurant, 5-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday
brunch; Cellar, 5-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m.
Sunday. Prices: Entrées, $18-$36; more casual Cellar also has sandwiches, $8-$12, and happy hour
starting at 3 p.m. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Sanford

1547 N. Jackson St. (414) 276-9608; sanfordrestaurant.com

Sanford and Angie D'Amato's restaurant turns 20 in December, and it still has it all: inventive,
delicious, contemporary dishes, rooted in classical technique and dabbling in world flavors;
outstanding service; and a relaxing, intimate dining room. Luxuriously flavored dishes, aided by sous
chef Justin Aprahamian, are in tune with the seasons, and fresh produce in Wisconsin's hospitable
months is locally grown. Whatever else may be on the menu, I always want the pear-Gorgonzola tart
appetizer, especially in autumn. Desserts match the high standards set by the other courses. This year,
look for some of Sanford's classic dishes from the last two decades to join the menu.

Hours: 5:30-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m. Friday, 5-10 p.m. Saturday. The restaurant
reopens Sept. 15, after the annual vacation. Prices: Entrées, $31-$39. Payment: MasterCard, Visa,
American Express, Discover, Diners Club.

Smyth

500 W. Florida St., in the Iron Horse Hotel. (414) 831-4615; theironhorsehotel.com

Atmosphere and menu work hand in glove to give diners at Smyth a sense of place. The dining room
shows a brawny side, taking advantage of the vintage building's history as a factory and warehouse.
And the menu of contemporary American dishes takes inspiration from the Midwest. So fried blue gill
with blue cheese tartar sauce, a venison version of osso buco, homey fried chicken and specials such
as Wisconsin rack of lamb with blackberry-blueberry sauce all come from chef Thomas Schultz's
kitchen. Excellent service makes a good experience even better. Full review
Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-
Saturday; brunch, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday. Prices: Entrées, $14-$36. Payment: MasterCard, Visa,
American Express, Discover, Diners Club.

Tess

2499 N. Bartlett Ave. (414) 964-8377.

Take excellent service and delicious contemporary American dishes with global influences; add to that
a pleasant secluded patio in summer - and an enclosed, heated patio for those days with a slight chill -
and it's a winning formula. The strawberry rocket salad, with its mix of peppery, pungent and sweet,
and the house-made cheese ravioli with a jolt from lemon make a fine meal; so does fresh, flaky
mahi-mahi with apple-fennel slaw from chef Leslie Johnson's kitchen. The dining room is small but
comfortable; some paint for the trim would be just enough to freshen it. Mitchell Wakefield's cozy
bistro is a neighborhood gem.

Hours: 5-9 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday-Thursday; 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Prices: $14-$29 Payment:
MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

Three Brothers

2414 S. St. Clair St. (414) 481-7530.

The little lamps on the midcentury chrome tables cast a warm glow at this casual Serbian restaurant in
an old Schlitz tavern. It's just part of what makes dinner here feel so comforting. Three Brothers,
operated by the third generation of the Radicevic family, serves traditional, fresh dishes such as
homemade chicken soup with a large dumpling bobbing in the delicate broth; crisp burek, the large
phyllo-wrapped pie filled with beef, feta cheese or spinach and cheese; and tender beef goulash with
potato dumplings. Servers were knowledgeable and warm, and made me feel like family.

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 4-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 4-9 p.m. Sunday. Prices:
$13.50-$18.50. Payment: Cash or personal check only.

Umami Moto

718 N. Milwaukee St. (414) 727-9333; umamimoto.com

Only Chef Dominic Zumpano's full-flavored Asian-influenced fare could shift the attention from the
striking, contemporary interior here. Velvety lobster bisque and Kobe-style sliders with tomato jam
and bacon make good starters. Aside from sashimi and sushi rolls, diners can select utterly delicious
entrées, such as delicate scallops with cauliflower puree and lobster salad, and a deeply savory
Kurobuta-style pork chop with roasted baby root vegetables and apricot jam spiced with lemongrass,
cardamom, cinnamon and ginger. Count on top-notch service. Full review

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Wednesday, 5-11 p.m. Thursday-Saturday; bar is open later. Prices:
$13-$35. Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.
Zarletti

741 N. Milwaukee St. (414) 225-0000; zarletti.net

The huge windows of this cosmopolitan dining room at Mason and Milwaukee streets offer some of
the best people-watching in the city, if you can tear your eyes away from the plates of savory Italian
fare. I was equally dazzled by pasta salsiccia al Marsala - spicy sausage, walnuts, onions and
mushrooms in a Marsala cream sauce - and by maiale alla griglia - grilled pork tenderloin in a creamy
leek-mustard sauce. Pleasing flavors continued with dessert, a fabulous banana semi-freddo with
crushed macadamia brittle in the semi-frozen cream, brûléed banana slices on top and drizzled with a
buttery caramel sauce. Service was polished, thoughtful and spunky, too, a real pleasure. Brian
Zarletti's restaurant is as good as ever.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5-10:30 p.m. Saturday. Prices: Dinner entrées, $11.95-$34.95
Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover.

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