Canadian Jeweller - June/July 2011 Issue

J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1
f o r t h e b u s i n e s s o f r e t a i l i n g j e w e l l e r y s i n c e 18 7 9
Scan Me!
to go to our
new CJ website
READER’S
CHOICE
COVER!
44% of voters!
It Runs In
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25
Baselworld 2011
Watchmakers
celebrate recovery
The Family David and Darren Barthau of
Barthau Jewellers, Stouffville, ON.
with a dazzling show
PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
001.CJ_Cover.indd 4 5/16/11 3:07:18 PM

24 Gold Group Ltd.
Gold Dealer & Refining Company
For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 96.
CJ_24Gold.indd 1 5/11/11 9:13:51 AM

swiss made.
self made.
Sir Richard Branson
Founder of Virgin Group.
From the Gemini Collection
THERE IS A MOMENT WHEN IMAGINATION BECOMES INNOVATION.

Perhaps no one captures this moment more often than Sir Richard Branson. Of course, this
doesn’t happen by chance. It happens because he pursues vision. Relentlessly. That is why
he wears Bulova Accutron. The timepiece that reinvents accuracy time and again.
Bulova Accutron: Innovation never rests.
Sir Richard Branson’s proceeds from the photo shoot were donated
to Virgin Unite, Virgin’s non-profit foundation. www.virginunite.com
www.bulova.com
CJ_Bulova.indd 1 5/11/11 9:14:48 AM

For Details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 96
27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6

T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621
www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca
CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 2 5/11/11 9:15:37 AM

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in
custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all
precious metals and also offer:
New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs

Incentive Programs • Co-op Advertising
CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 3 5/11/11 9:16:09 AM

Behind every “It’s perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.
CJ_Stuller.indd 2 5/11/11 9:16:54 AM

And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.
From the fashionably modern to the quietly classic, Stuller is the
bridal authority with the most up-to-date styles and solutions in
the industry. We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery, mountings,
and components as well as unique selling tools for customization.
And our unparalleled customer service and overnight delivery always
keep you running smoothly. For a wealth of ideas and solutions, call
800-877-7777, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.
Visit us at JCK Las Vegas at PC-850 and ET&S 6265.
The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.
CJ_Stuller.indd 3 5/12/11 4:34:56 PM

Phone: 1.866.682.6823 Email: pascal@TIGGroup.ca Web: tiggroup.ca
TIG-Ritani-CanadianJeweller.indd 1 11-05-02 9:56 AM
CJ_TIG Ritani.indd 1 5/11/11 9:17:35 AM

18K Gold, Sterling Silver & Color
Sterling Silver
Diamond & Sterling Silver
M EN’S COLLECTION
Phone: 1.866.682.6823 Email: pascal@TIGGroup.com Website: tiggroup.ca
Ostbye_JBMagazine.indd 1 5/11/11 11:16 AM

CJ_TIG Ostbye.indd 1 5/11/11 2:42:51 PM
The budget for this ad
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We wish to
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Jewellery
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AUDITED
Official magazine of JVC
For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

8 CJ 12 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 |
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2011
www.canadianjeweller.com
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
008.CJ_Masthead.indd
008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 12 5/12/11
12/16/10 11:28:53 AM 10:10:29 AM
“ When we arrived
that morning,
the store was still
warm from the
blow torches they
used to cut into the
safes. they literally
got everything. ”
anIta thIgPEn
d i a m o n d s r f o r e v e r , k e n n e s aw, g a
thieves had meticulously

planned every aspect
of their overnight burglary.
fortunately for anita, she
had also planned carefully,
protecting her business
with the one insurer who
knows the jewelry industry
better than any other.
watch anita tell her alarming

story and learn more about
jewelers mutual coverage at
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Coverage you can count on.

People you can count on.
For a free, no obligation quote, call Jewelers Mutual at 800-558-6411 or e-mail YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.com
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CJ_Jewelers Mutual.indd 1 5/11/11 9:21:20 AM
78
66
You picked our cover!

As a matter of fact, 44 per cent of you
52
chose our current cover over three other
options. If you’d like to pick our next one,
make sure to vote at canadianjeweller.com.
[FEATURES] JUNE/JULY 2011
46. Canada: A Gem Nation 66. a modern classic

Our country not only produces fine diamonds Vintage themes and new technologies dominate
but also some other amazing stones. Baselworld 2011.
52. It runs in the family 78. Best case scenario

Barthau Jewellers built its reputation on A flurry of new materials and alloys represents
three generation of jewellers and watchmakers. a transformation of the way watches are cased.
58. jewellery redefined 82. jck and couture shows

2011’s top trend ... with staying power for 2012. Excitement builds around new products debuting
at the Las Vegas shows in June.
Correction: Martin Irving – who wrote the mining feature in

our April/May issue – is the Director of True North Gems.
14 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 14 5/12/11 5:24:19 PM

J E W E L L E R T O D A Y.
SUPERHERO TOMORROW.
PERSONAL JEWELRY INSURANCE

Make your customers aware of Personal Jewelry Insurance from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and you just might
For Details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 96.
save the day! To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your customers,
visit JewelersMutual.ca. To order materials, click the “Canadian retailers” link in the lower left corner of the homepage.
*Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Québec.
800-558-6411 • JewelersMutual.ca
YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.ca
E X C L U S I V E LY
ENDORSED BY
CJ_JewelersMutual.indd 1 5/11/11 9:22:21 AM

64
28
74
[DEPARTMENTS] JUNE/JULY 2011

18. letter from the editor
20. Product showcase 74. the colour of love

Anita Agrawal creates timeless pieces with
28. star watch coloured gemstones.
32. who’s news 80. The Industry of fakes

Counterfeit watches are boosting a
36. for the record US$650 billion criminal business.
42. tight and bright 87. showcase/marketplace

Vector tightening is an excellent technique
to put loose gemstones back in place. 96. fax back
64. A leap of faith 98. last word
PAJ bets on Elle, a sterling silver fashion
jewellery line, and it pays off, big time.
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 16 5/12/11 5:24:54 PM

CJ_Chamilia.indd 1
5/11/11 9:23:42 AM
letterfromeditor
A bright
new journey
Some might argue jewellery is not a necessity, and they would probably
be right. Nobody actually needs jewellery – even if you think you do!
However, we want jewellery, and desire has proven to be almost as powerful
as necessity. We crave that special something that reflects who we are, that
represents a defining moment, or that helps send a message about what we
want in life.
A ring is passed from generation to generation and becomes a symbol of

a family. A watch turns into a rite of passage into adulthood or proof of
our career achievements. A necklace is all it takes for you to feel unique
and turn heads at a significant event. We don’t need jewellery, that’s true.
Nonetheless, we value it, sometimes more than any of the many objects
that populate our lives.
It is that feeling that propels me into this great new adventure called
Canadian Jeweller. As its new Editor, I am ready to be amazed and inspired
by your stories, delighted by your jewellery and creativity. I’ll be your voice
and your advocate.
What better way to start on this journey than to report on BaselWorld

2011 and the astonishing pieces that talk about long-gone days and a brave
new future? Or to dive into the dazzling world of JCK Vegas, a show like
no other, in a city like no other? Or to be humbled by the passion and
dedication of three generations of Barthau jewellers?
Carlos Weigle
Please join me. It will be an honour to be in your company.
Carlos Weigle
Editor
Photography by McKenzie James; Styling by Kelechi Achonu;

Makeup by Liz Robertson
014.CJ_EditorLetter.indd 18 5/16/11 3:05:21 PM

swiss chic
swiss made
SWISS MADE - www.rodaniacanada.com
RODANIA CANADA INC. Tel.: 514 842-9136

Fax: 514 842-9137 Visit us at the Montreal Expo Prestige Jewellery show
1255 University St., # 508 from the 28th - 30th of August - Booth # 619 - 623
Montreal, Qc., H3B 3V8 Toll Free: 1-877-RODANIA (763-2642)
info@rodaniacanada.com
CJ_Rodania.indd 1 5/11/11 9:24:56 AM

productshowcase
1. Stuller Summertime style

Sleek styling and accessible price points make Ceramic Couture™ 3. Pandora
watches from Stuller the perfect gift for any occasion. Poised to drive store This sterling-silver ring with a hand-carved pink shell rose is part of the
sales, the contemporary metals jewellery collection features a variety of Pandora Ring Upon Ring collection. Wear this delicately detailed ring
designs for men and women in new White Dura Tungsten™ and Dura alone or stacked with others in the collection to create your own look.
Cobalt™, stainless steel, titanium, ceramic and Dura Tungsten™. For more View the entire collection at pandora.net. For more information write 142
information write 140 on page 96. on page 96.
2. Nova 4. ELLE Sterling Silver Jewellery

This butterfly inspired ring and earring set are now available at Nova Timeless elegance and cutting edge style, ELLE Jewellery’s “Ambrosia”
Diamonds. The earrings (ER8-1065) are beautifully set with 3.48 total carat collection features affordable pieces inspired by the world’s largest fashion
weight of brown diamonds and 21.47 total carat weight of smokey quartz in publication. Its pleasing assortment of cascading circles and droplets of sky
18k rose and white gold. The matching ring (LF8-1701) is set with 2.44 total blue topaz and amethyst is also adorned with ELLE Jewellery’s signature
carat weight of brown diamonds and 18.10 total carat weight of smokey genuine ruby logo symbolizing a woman’s strength and beauty. For more
quartz. For more information write 141 on page 96. information write 143 on page 96.
014-020.CJ_ProductProfiles_REV.indd 20 5/12/11 12:05:14 PM

BUILD YOUR FUTURE CLIENTELE
Unique Birthstone Collection for babies and
young girls with superior quality products
that are durable, attractive and safe. Lifetime
warranty on gold jewels.
Meet us at The JCK Las Vegas

Show
Mandalay Bay Hotel and
Convention Center, June 3-6 2011
Booth B5183
bfly.ca
3291 chemin Royal . Québec . QC . Canada . G1E 1V8 . 418.660.2909 .
1.888.660.3292
USA Patent 6158243 . CA Patent 2206353 . FR Patent 9807224
PubCJ_JUNE(FullPage).indd 1 2011-05-02 10:52:27
CJ_Butterfly.indd 1 5/11/11 9:27:45 AM

productshowcase
1 4
1. Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 3. PH DesiGn

The June and September editions of the show serve as a comprehensive The FINGERPRINT wedding band is a romantic metaphor for the love you
platform to advocate the jewellery trade every year. A strong track record of and your partner share for one another. Wear your love’s finger print as a
excellence has made both events a prominent fixture in the global jewellery heartfelt expression of your devotion. For more information or a quote on this
trade’s events calendar. Save the date and plan your visit now! www. unique design, call PH Design at 416 367-2870 or visit www.phdesign.ca. For
JewelleryNetAsia.com. For more information, write 144 on the Free Info more information, write 146 on the Free Info Card on page 96.
Card on page 96.
2. See You in Edmonton 4. Ready Mounts Inc.

For over 30 years, the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo (August 12-14, 2011) For the past 25 years we have provided our customers with superior
has showcased the latest trends, packaging, equipment and technology for products and services. Proudly offering a large selection of engagement
the jewellery industry. In one of the best economic regions in North America, and wedding bands, that features styles ranging from simple classics to
the Expo is considered to be the top writing jewellery show in Canada. Visit current designer trends. Our products are attractive, crafted in the highest
www.wcjexpo.com. For more information, write 145 on the Free Info Card regard of quality and at a competitive price. For more information, write 147
on page 96. on the Free Info Card on page 96.

C O LO UR TH E O RY
Make sure your accessories are just as
bright as your Spring Wardrobe.
Colour is one of the strongest fashion trends this Spring and our extensive inventory
of coloured gemstones and diamonds can complete your perfect look.
At PH Design, our full service workshop can produce a single ring or a large complicated order
with ease. With over 25 experienced jewellery craftsmen whose specialities include custom
design, the creation of waxes, moulds and CNC generated jewellery,
your order will go out on time and on budget.
Let PH Design be a solution provider for your most complicated custom orders. For more
information, please schedule an appointment or visit us online at www.phdesign.ca.
PH DESIGN | 149 CHURCH STREET | 2ND FLOOR | TORONTO, ONTARIO | M5B 1Y4
(416) 367-2870 | INFO@PHDESIGN.CA | WWW.PHDESIGN.CA
CJ_PH Design.indd 1 5/11/11 9:29:27 AM

productshowcase
3
2
3. Bulova Flies High

The limited-edition Bulova Accutron Conqueror, inspired by the famous
Lone Eagle timepiece that Bulova awarded to Colonel Charles A. Lindbergh
1. Happy Customers Return in 1927, when he became the first person to complete a solo non-stop flight
Order your FREE jeweller guide today to discover the benefits of the across the Atlantic. Individually numbered. Model 63B152. Suggested
Personal Jewelry Program from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company – the retail, $4,900. For details, write 150 on the Free Info Card on page 96.
only company specializing exclusively in jewellery insurance in the United
States and Canada*. Learn how this unmatched program can strengthen 4. Image fifth Avenue
your business. For details, write 148 on the Free Info Card on page 96. Classic ladies’ bracelets with a modern look in 18k white and yellow gold,
*not available in Quebec can be worn for any occasion. Not only do they look good, but they also
feel good on the wrist. For more information write 151 on page 96.
2. Protect Yourself
Order Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s Security Guide for Retail 5. Gold, 24/7
Jewellery Businesses today! This guide will help you reduce your risk of For the most accurate gold pricing, turn to 24 Gold Group Ltd. Specializing
theft. Exclusively endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association, Jewelers in real-time gold pricing, clients are given the most precise, right up to the
Mutual is the only company specializing exclusively in jewellery insurance second, pricing possible. Visit 24gold.ca twenty-four hours a day, seven
in the U.S. and Canada. Visit JewelersMutual.ca or call 800-558-6411. For days a week, for the most exact gold pricing available or call 416-214-2443.
details, write 149 on the Free Info Card on page 96. For more information, write 152 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

RM-AD_Full page_Layout 1 11-05-06 8:31 AM Page 1
Featuring our new bridal collection
In stock finished mounts and semi mounts

Say hello to our team.
Printing, growing and milling of your files. Design services also available.
215 Vicotria St. Suite B3, Toronto, Ontario M5B 1T9
p. 416.366.4046 f. 416.366.5162 info@readymounts.com
www.readymounts.com
CJ_ReadyMounts.indd 1 5/11/11 9:30:20 AM

productshowcase
1. Ashley Anne Collection Unveiling

Midas Jewelry now offers engagement rings and matching bands in addition
to its vast selection of wedding rings. The recently introduced Ashley Anne
Collection of bridal sets will please any bride-to-be. Each set is exclusively
designed to fit the style of future brides. To see the full collection, visit
midasjewelryinc.ca. For details, write 153 on the Free Info Card on page 96.
2. Polygon
Over 2,800 jewellery professionals choose Polygon. Since 1984, Polygon has 4. BUILD YOUR FUTURE CLIENTELE
helped gem & jewellery professionals gain invaluable knowledge and find Unique Birthstone Collection for babies and young girls with superior
unique trading opportunities that have significantly impacted the year-over- quality products that are durable, attractive and safe. All our gold jewels are
year growth of their businesses. Find out how you can join the industry’s most handmade in Canada. Lifetime warranty on gold jewels. Bfly.ca
active online community & trading network! Call 1-800-221-4435 or email 3291, chemin Royal, QC, Canada, G1E 1V8. 418.660.2909. 1.888.660.3292
info@polygon.net. For details, write 154 on the Free Info Card on page 96. For details, write 156 on the Free Info Card on page 96.
3. Chamilia’s New Siena Collection 5. GIA’s Free Retail Support Kit

Luscious color, stunning designs, all inspired by centuries-old hills art and Confidently educate your customers about the 4Cs, the GIA International
architecture of Tuscany. Rich reds, umbers and greens reminiscent of sun- Diamond Grading System™, and GIA reports. GIA’s Retailer Support Kits
drenched olive groves and vineyards. Twenty-four artisan bead designs, include effective in-store displays and collateral designed to help you tell the
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CJ_UBM ASIA.indd 1 5/11/11 9:32:34 AM

starwatch
Spring Fling
Coloured stones, flowers and bows are some of the
stars’ top choices for the season. By Bonnie Siegler
Looking her winning best in Neil Lane’s fancy coloured

diamond and platinum chains, Serena Williams dazzled
at the pre-Grammy Gala and Salute to Industry Icons
in Beverly Hills. It was a total of 60 carats of fancy
coloured diamonds. ($150,000).
Carla Gugino attended

the premiere of Sucker Punch
at Hollywood’s Grauman’s
Chinese Theatre showing off
an Adeler 18k andecine
diamond ring ($9,790).
022-023.CJ_StarWatch.indd 28 5/12/11 1:32:17 PM

CJ_Image Fifth Ave.indd 1
5/11/11 9:34:44 AM
starwatch
Oscar winner Jennifer Hudson has been mesmerizing

audiences with her slimmed down figure and superb
singing voice. And she wowed them again at her album
release party for I Remember Me at Tenjune in New
York City wearing a Bavna diamond 14k gold dome ring
(price upon request) and a Bavna white gold bangle with
pavé diamonds ($18,900).
The 2011 Film
Independent Spirit
Awards held at the Santa
Monica Beach brought out an
A-list crowd including Eva Mendes
who chose a Le Vian 2.59-carat
diamond flower ring in 18k black
gold to glisten in the sun.
($14,947).
Mandy Moore belted out a tune at the

Academy Awards in Hollywood but what
caught the audience’s attention was her
swirling open ribbon diamond and platinum
Neil Lane hair bow ($100,000). It was 15
carats of diamonds set in patented silver and
gold that enchanted everyone.
022-023.CJ_StarWatch.indd 30 5/12/11 1:37:09 PM

June 27 th
romantic turn.
OUR JOURNEY TAKES A
Look for Pandora advertisements in the following June and July publications; Flare,
Châtelaine French, and ELLE Canada
Be inspired at pandora.net
U.S. Pat.No. 7,007,507 © All rights reserved.
CJ_Pandora_JuneJuly2011.indd 1 4/4/2011 4:14:57 PM

CJ_Pandora.indd 1 5/11/11 9:35:49 AM
who’snews
People making headlines in the jewellery industry
Changes at Citizen Watch in North and Central America. “Thanks to

Kevin Kaye has been named president of the innovative energy of the company, and in
Citizen Watch Company of Canada, after harmony with the intentions of the visionary
serving as executive vice-president and Rolf W. Schnyder and his tireless pioneering
general manager since 1992. Kaye was spirit, we stand by the strategy of independence,”
hired to oversee sales, marketing, product says Hoff mann.
development, distribution and fi nance,
and under his leadership, Citizen quickly Stuller appoints Zale
grew to become one of the largest mid- Stuller has promoted 30-year industry veteran
priced watch brands in Canada. Kaye has Stanley Zale to merchandise vice-president of
held several key positions in the Canadian diamonds and gemstones. Zale served until
jewellery industry, including president of the now as vice-president of diamonds. By this
Canadian Jewellers Association, president of appointment, Stuller is consolidating some of its
Jewellers Vigilance Canada and president of business units.
the Canadian 24-Karat Club. “We believe the consolidation of these two
In an interview with Canadian Jeweller, business segments will provide us with
Kaye reflects on his beginnings: "When opportunities to better serve our customers by
I opened the company for Citizen, there capitalizing on the unique knowledge existing
really was no market share. So over the past Kevin Kaye on both product teams,” says Jay Jackson, Stuller
19 years, we have just continued to grow and president and CEO. “And with the success Stanley
grow and grow, and we now have the largest Ulysse Nardin head Rolf Schnyder dies has demonstrated with regards to our diamond
market share presence in the mid-price Rolf Schnyder, CEO of Swiss watch brand Ulysse business, I know he’ll bring the same enthusiasm
category." Nardin, unexpectedly passed away on April 14, and professionalism to the combined unit.”
In terms of how his appointment may affect following a short illness. A statement released by Prior to joining Stuller, Zale was vice-president
the company, Kaye doesn't anticipate any the company stated: “With the passing of Rolf of sales and product development at Louis Glick
major change in direction. As he points Schnyder, the watchmaking industry has lost one and Company in New York. “I am very excited
out, "I opened the company, so I look at of its greatest visionaries, while Ulysse Nardin to be leading a great team of the top technical
Citizen of Canada as my baby. I started has lost an important source of innovation for the professionals in the industry,” says Zale. “It’s
it and have grown it to the position it is firm. We are profoundly moved and distraught very powerful when you combine our work force
now. My promotion is a recognition of my at this sudden loss.” The statement noted that with a single-purpose vision of wowing our
accomplishments, rather than pointing to a “the operational running of the business by the customers. The impact is huge.”
new strategy. I’m not going to change what current members of management can be kept going
has made the company successful." Which without interruption, and continued in the spirit
includes to continue supporting the highly of Rolf Schnyder’s vision.” Schnyder had acquired
popular Eco-Drive watch line. the family firm Ulysse Nardin in 1983, and since
Is it hard to still be motivated, after 19 years that time held the role of president and CEO. Under
of working at the same company? Not for his leadership, the brand rose to the top of the
Kaye: "I like to get involved and try to make mechanical watchmaking sector, with numerous
a difference, not just for our company but for innovations, including the first astronomical
our industry as a whole," with initiatives such wristwatch.
as the Glitter of Hope Lottery (in support of Schnyder’s successor was announced April 29.
Sunnybrook's Odette Cancer Centre). Patrik Hoff man was appointed to the position
Adds Kaye: "What also keeps me challenged of CEO. He has been a top manager at Ulysse
is new product development, and being part Nardin since 1999, as director of the U.S.
of an industry that I think is fascinating and corporate offices in Boca Raton, and has played
Stanley Zale
healthy, one that keeps evolving." a significant role in the success of the brand
32 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 | WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
XX-XX.CJ_WhosNews.indd 32 5/12/11 4:29:47 PM

dedicated to perfection
Please visit www.seikocan.com to view our full range of Seiko watches.

To become an authorized Seiko dealer, please contact Kelvin Cheong at 1-800-668-6571.
sk cj ad jun0311.indd 1 06/04/11 1:07 PM

CJ_Odyssey.indd 1 5/11/11 9:37:15 AM
who’snews
TIG: the path

to success
Steve Turac and David Hayes bring
their passion to the jewellery business
BY CARLOS WEIGLE
The road to finding your true calling is rarely a

straight one. In Steve Turac’s case, for instance,
jewellery had been persistently tempting him
while he tried his best to avoid it. “The truth
is, I always resisted being in the business, even
though I’ve had family working in it for a very
long time,” explains Turac. He finally gave in. “It
was destiny,” he admits. Fate took him from a
career in corporate telecommunications to one
filled with diamonds and gold. Being a seasoned
businessman, Turac knew he had to lead his own
company – that’s when the TIG Group was born.
The business took off pretty quickly. TIG first
benefited from an exclusive agreement with New
York-based Suberi Brothers – which expired at
the end of last year – and more recently, from
its association with industry giant Julius Klein
Group, one of the largest diamond companies
in the world. As Turac describes it, “they (Julius
Klein Group) share the same philosophy we
do: it’s not about selling just jewellery but also
bringing back profitability for our retailers.” Steve Turac
That approach has served Turac and his partner,

David Hayes – who brings more than 25 years our industry and the rest will take care of itself.”
of experience to the mix – really well. Today, Even though TIG is growing, Turac and Hayes
TIG carries brands such as Ritani (the second want to keep it as a “boutique-style” company,
largest branded engagement ring line in the one that offers a more personalized approach.
world), Ostbye (which includes lines such as “One of the things we won’t do,” explains Turac,
She, Diva and Reflections of Color), Imperial “is to bring any brand to Canada that we do not
Pearls (a fashion-forward pearl line) and the service ourselves. We also have an infrastructure:
HSS Jewellery Programs (a price-pointed line a goldsmith on duty, bilingual customer service,
featuring high-quality, basic designs). customs clearance services and so on.” They
TIG also represents (exclusively in Canada) chose to deal with independent retailers only,
someone who was instrumental in converting and offer a wide selection of products, from
Turac into the jewellery businessman he is today: a $49-piece to a recently sold quarter-million
Sir Gabriel “Gabi” Tolkowsky, one of the world’s diamond. They also have their own areas of
most renowned diamond cutters. “I had the expertise: Turac handles the branded pieces
honour of working with him for the past four while Hayes takes care of the loose diamonds.
years,” explains Turac, “and he always taught me Finding your own path is great; sharing it with
to work hard and make sure to do what’s best for someone you trust is truly outstanding. [CJ] Smokey quartz silver ring with
18k gold accent, from Ostbye’s
Reflection of Color collection.
XX-XX.CJ_WhosNews.indd 34 5/12/11 4:30:05 PM

Bijouterie / Je wellery

Specializing in:
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Quebec, contact Marcel Dumontet Manitoba, contact Rube Helman Tel: (514) 845-0066
Tel: (514) 865-7235 Toll Free: 1 800 665-3314 Fax: (514) 845-3697
Ontario, contact Vahan Mele Head Office: 1117 Ste-Catherine O., Suite 418 Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065
Tel: (647) 284-5067 Montreal, Quebec H3B 1H9 info@legajeweller.com
Visit our website for more selections: www.legajeweller.com
GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE
CJ_Lega.indd 1 5/11/11 9:38:15 AM

news | trends | events
WFDB Presidents’ Meeting Israel diamond exports soar
The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) held its annual Presidents’ Meeting recently in Israel exported a net of US$2.1 billion worth
Dubai, discussing a number of issues, including non-disclosure of High Pressure High Temperature of polished diamonds in the first quarter of
(HPHT)-treated diamonds and actions against offenders, as well as expansion of the WFDB Mark. 2011, a 45.7 per cent increase compared to
Donna Baker, president of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) gave a presentation on the the US$1.45 billion exported during the first
GIA’s recent decision to cancel accounts with clients who had repeatedly submitted High Pressure quarter of the previous year. Of the total net,
High Temperature (HPHT)-treated stones to their lab without prior disclosure. Baker said the GIA about 45 per cent of exports by value went
will provide the names of those clients and other relevant related information to the WFDB and the to the U.S., Israel’s leading diamond export
International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA), subject to legal examination. destination, while 26 per cent went to Hong
Participants in the meeting also agreed that WFDB bylaws, rules and regulations need to be updated Kong, 9 per cent to Switzerland, 8 per cent
and adjusted to reflect the trading channels, such as online trading, online sales and auctions. In to Belgium and 2 per cent to China. Polished
addition, WFDB president Avi Paz noted that since the WFDB is to widen its membership circle by diamond imports in the quarter increased 48.5
offering associate or affiliate membership to diamond producing countries and possibly to diamond per cent to $1.2 billion.
mining companies, it will need to review its bylaws and rules to include these new members.
U.S. jeweller admits to fraud
U.S. jeweller Ralph Esmerian faces jail time
ON OUR RADAR after pleading guilty to three counts of fraud
in the case that led to the bankruptcy of
Fred Leighton Jewelers. A fourth-generation
jeweller, Esmerian was charged with stealing
or double-pledging more than US$48 million
in embezzled jewellery and artifacts. Using
these assets as collateral, he secured more
than US$210 million in loans to finance his
own business operations and acquire Fred
Leighton in 2006. According to a report in
Women’s Wear Daily, Esmerian acknowledged
committing wire fraud, bankruptcy fraud and
concealment of assets belonging to the estate
of a debtor. In addition to fines that could top
$750,000, he could have faced a maximum
of 30 years in prison, but instead will face
between 97 months and ten years when he is
sentenced on July 22nd.
Retail training on Lake Geneva Merrill Lynch attempted to recoup part of its
A new institute, the Swiss Retail Management Institute for Watches & Jewellery, has been created $177 million in loans by auctioning off some
near Geneva. Its goal is to “train the new generations of high jewellery and haute horlogerie of Esmerian’s personal collection at Christie’s.
retailers,” says a statement from the new school. The mandate will be to teach the necessary Esmerian had sought to sell the pieces, earlier
fundamentals to manage a multi-brand store, incuding brand management, stock management, part of the collateral, on his own and put Fred
marketing, public relations, safety, decoration, sales techniques, management, administration, Leighton into Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection
gemmology and haute horology. For information, contact www.swissretailmanagement.ch. in April 2008 to prevent the auction from going
forward. Esmerian was arrested on Nov. 22.
XX-XX.CJ_FTR.indd 36 5/12/11 1:16:03 PM

Swiss
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CJ_Banda.indd 1 5/11/11 9:40:16 AM

fortherecord
Crimes against jewellers decrease in U.S. the jewellery industry would increase in an ON OUR RADAR
The total number of crimes against the fine economic downturn. He points to several
jewellery industry in the U.S. decreased by 4.5 per economically driven key factors that helped:
cent in 2010, according to the Jewelers’ Security fewer retail stores as targets, since many had
Alliance. In its 2010 Annual Crime Report, JSA closed, fewer traveling jewellery salespersons on
reports total dollar losses of US$81 million were the road, and lower inventories in retail stores.
suffered by victims, which represents a decrease According to the report, grab-and-run crimes
of 17 per cent from 2009. continued to be one of the most frequent
“The cumulative effect of taking hundreds of crimes against the industry, with 359 reported
jewellery criminals off the streets year after year to the JSA. Burglaries, with 312 crimes, are not
has had a strong impact on reducing crime,” says far behind.
JSA president John Kennedy. Increased efforts
by the FBI and local law enforcement agencies Interpol tracks Basel thieves
resulted in the arrests of 538 criminals who Four diamonds worth US$10 million were stolen
attacked the industry in 2010. Kennedy adds that at BaselWorld in March, and international police
increased information-sharing by jewellers and the agency Interpol has released photos of suspects,
police regarding suspects, crimes and scams, as taken by surveillance cameras at the show. The
well as the impact of JSA’s local Crime Prevention diamonds were stolen from a booth in Hall 3.0,
Networks Project also aided in deterring crime. while an employee was distracted by one of the
Kennedy notes that the decreased crime rate gang members, according to a report on Antwerp
MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1 GIA improves pearl testing
contradicts popular wisdom that crime against Facets Online.
The Gemological Institute of America says
it has introduced significant advancements
in its pearl testing process, using highly
advanced micro-CT X-ray units that
produce high-definition 3-D images of
individual pearls. These new units enable
GIA to rapidly gain fully rotational 3-D
images of the internal growth structures
of pearls in just 15 to 20 minutes; older
units take three to five hours or more. This
new technology enables GIA laboratories
to assess much larger groups of pearls
more quickly and in greater detail than any
previously employed technology.
“We are confident these state-of-the-
art units will give unparalleled service
to the pearl industry,” says Tom Moses,
GIA senior vice-president of Lab and

MCD Pearl Imports
Research. “This equipment reflects GIA’s
A selection of pearl strands,
loose pearls and pearl jewellery 80-year commitment to pearl research,
providing the public and trade with the
27 Queen St. E, Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6
T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368-2426 most advanced pearl identification, using
Email info@mcdpearls.com the most innovative and sophisticated
technology. Kenneth Scarratt, Nick Sturman
and the rest of the pearl identification team
have more than 100 total years of hands-
on experience examining and identifying
almost every pearl type.”

CJ_Ambermode.indd 1 5/11/11 9:54:22 AM

fortherecord
Watches/Jewellery at auction diamond and the 69-carat Taylor-Burton Tokyo Diamond Exchange president Michio
The Sotheby’s April watch and clock auction diamond, a gift from Richard Burton. Christie’s Iwasaki reported on the state of the diamond
in New York totaled US$5.8 million. Highlighs New York auction in April totaled US$31.7 industry in Japan following the disastrous
include a Patek Philippe 18k yellow gold million. The top lot was a rectangular-cut, earthquake and tsunami that struck the
perpetual calendar chronograph, and a musical D-color, internally flawless, 37.16-carat country last month. “The disasters had a
singing bird automaton clock with hour and diamond, which sold for US$4,450,500. big influence on the diamond and jewellery
half-hour striking, made by Piguet & Meylan industry of Japan, he said. “Department and
and Frederic Rochat, circa 1828 – each of which Fund to help victims; aftershocks in retail stores shortened their business hours
fetched US$302,500. Tokyo and all the jewellery exhibitions in Tokyo were
The Sotheby’s jewellery sale in Hong Kong in A group of jewellers and jewellery canceled. Almost all of the Indian diamond
April netted US53.5 million. Highlights include: organizations have launched a fundraising dealers in Tokyo closed their offices and
a 25.5-carat, D-color flawless diamond, organization to help the victims of the tsunami returned home and have not come back yet.”
which sold for US$5.1 million, or US$200,000 and earthquake that hit Japan in February. Iwasaki added that the diamond market in
per carat; a pair of Harry Winston diamond Jewelers for Japan is asking jewellers and Japan has dropped to about 30 per cent of what
pendant earrings weighing 36.4-carats, which consumers to donate scrap gold and silver it was before the earthquake and that sales
sold for US$2.4 million; and a 26.67-carat jewellery, which refiner Rio Grande will at one of the largest jewellery chain stores
Burmese ruby cabochon and diamond ring convert to cash without a refining fee. All dropped 50 per cent after the earthquake
by Bulgari, for US$2.4 million. Meanwhile, proceeds will be donated to the Red Cross and but most probably that figure is even lower. “It
Christie’s is set to auction the jewellery owned earmarked for Japan relief. For information, certainly will take some considerable time for
by Elizabeth Taylor, who passed away in March. contact www.jewelersforjapan.org. the Japanese jewellery and diamond industry to
Among the jewels are the 33.19-carat Krupp At the recent WFDB President’s Meeting, recover,” Iwasaki reported.
Rio Tinto touts human rights; production decreases

Diamond mining giant Rio Tinto has partnered with the Danish Institute for Human Rights to
develop human rights tools for international businesses. Rio Tinto will support the expansion of the
DIHR’s Human Rights and Business Country Portal, a website that helps businesses identify, assess
and address human rights risks in specific countries.
Meanwhile, Rio Tinto’s diamond production fell 29 per cent year-over-year; a 22 per cent decrease
in the first quarter, due to lower grades and heavy rains in March, leading to a temporary stop
in production. Production at Argyle, its Australian mine, dropped by 35 per cent year-over-year.
Production at Diavik, Rio Tinto’s Canadian diamond mine, was 13 per cent lower in the first quarter.
Production at the company’s site in Murowa, Zimbabwe, increased by 55 per cent year-over-year.
COLOUR CATALOGUE
THE SYSTEM CJA cautions against Marange diamonds
Following the release of a statement from Mathieu Yamba, the Chair of the Kimberley Process,
M T HE S Y
STE
E
SY
S TE
M
announcing that stocks and production from the Mbada and Canadile mining concessions in
H
T Marange, Zimbabwe can be exported with “immediate effect,” the Canadian Jewellers Association
T
H
EM
SILVER
has nevertheless cautioned its members against dealing in diamonds from the region. “As you know,
ST
SY
M TH E S Y
there have been alleged human rights abuses, as well as legal issues surrounding diamond production
STE
JEWELLERY from this region,” says CJA president David Ritter. “As such, we urge all CJA members to practice
M TH E
CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS

PENDANTS RINGS BANGLES
extreme caution and the necessary due diligence, doing what they can, within their spheres of
STE
SYS
LOCKETS CUBICS... influence, to protect the integrity of the diamonds they trade in. This includes requiring your suppliers
SY
DISPLAYS to provide additional written reassurances, beyond the World Diamond Council’s (WDC) System of
EM
E
H
T
Warranties statement, that the diamonds they supply have not been obtained in violation of applicable
T
H
E
EM SY
ST
national laws and/or sanctions and have not originated from Marange, Zimbabwe. Until there is
STE
M T HE S Y
further progress made on the various issues surrounding diamonds from the Marange region, CJA
THE SYSTEM recommends that members do not trade in these diamonds.” Ritter notes the association continues
TOLL FREE 1•800•661•4460 to support the KP, working with the Canadian government and other key stakeholders to prevent any
1670 MILLS RD, SIDNEY BC V8L 5S9 further damage to consumer confidence in diamonds. [CJ]

CJ_Polygon.indd 1
5/11/11 9:56:03 AM
benchfeature
Tight
and Bright
Vector tightening is an excellent technique Gemstones that become loose in their settings can cause damage to the gem
to put loose gemstones back in place and the prongs trying to hold them or can ultimately become dislodged
and lost. When viewing a jewellery piece with a loose gemstone, inspect
BY DOUGLAS HALL, WITH MARK B. MANN
it to determine that it was properly set to begin with. If it was, regular
inspections can catch the problem in the early stages, before any damage
or loss can occur.
If a properly set gemstone does come loose, however, a technique called

vector tightening can be used to quickly and safely secure it back in
its setting.
XX-XX.CJ_Bench_REV.indd 42 5/12/11 1:55:23 PM

Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds

Nova Diamonds Inc.
221 Victoria St. Lower Level
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
CJ_Nova.indd 1 5/11/11 9:57:04 AM

Gemstones can loosen in prong settings because of wear-related
issues or errors in workmanship when they were originally set.
Gemstones set to quality metrics include the following features:
Prong contact is 30-50% of crown distance.

• Prong contact is measured along the crown. Measurement from the
girdle to table is 100%.
Prong height is 75-100% of table height.

• Table height is measured vertically from the girdle to the top of the
table. Measurement from the girdle to the table is 100%.
The prong bearing is cut to conform to the crown, girdle and

pavilion, and there are no visible open spaces.
• A bearing is a seat cut into each prong to fit gemstone angles so it
sits level in the setting.
Prong removal is 40-50% of original prong thickness.

• Prong removal is the amount of metal removed from the prong to
create the bearing or seat for the gemstone to be seated into.
Errors in workmanship include:
The bearing for the gemstone was The bearing does not conform to the The prong depth was
cut larger than its diameter. gemstone crown, girdle and pavilion. overcut and is too thin.
The setter cut the bearing (where The bearing should be precise and in full Thin prongs will open easily
the gemstone resides) too large. No contact with the crown, girdle and pavilion. during normal wear and cause the
method will tighten a gemstone There should be no visible space. gemstone to become loose.
when the bearing is too big.

benchfeature
There are other errors in prong workmanship that can contribute to loose
gemstones. The prongs are:
• Not fully bent onto the crown of the gemstone.
• Too thin at the top and provide little or no security.
• On a very sharp angle – 30° or less will easily bend on impact.
To demonstrate the vector gemstone tightening method, we’ll use a

six-prong head with a round brilliant-cut stone. If you try to tighten
the gemstone by simply pushing the prongs in toward the centre of it –
seemingly the most direct way – it probably won’t be secure, and you risk
damage to it. That’s because the “memory” of the metal in the prong will
cause it to spring back to its original position and the gemstone will still
be loose.
In vector tightening, you move the prongs in two different directions

(vectors) to overcome the metal memory. Metal memory is the natural
tendency for a prong to spring back into the location where it was residing
when pushing in only one direction. The prongs end up closer to the centre
of the stone and hold it tightly. You can use flat or chain-nose pliers to
vector tighten, but parallel-jaw pliers work best.
First, thoroughly clean the mounting. Next, gently squeeze the two prongs
on the upper right side (1, upper and lower right) toward each other. Next,
do the same thing with the prongs on the lower left side (2). As you squeeze
the prongs toward each other, they will “slide” around the contour of the
gemstone. Don’t squeeze too hard – just reduce the distance between the
side prongs by roughly one-third.
At this point, the space between the top right prongs and the bottom left
prongs should appear too large, and the space between the prongs on the
right and left sides should appear too small.
Next, squeeze the side two prongs (3, upper right and lower right) toward
each other so they end up with what looks like the original spacing. Repeat
with the opposing prongs (4). Then repeat (5, and then 6). The gemstone is
now tight and the prongs evenly spaced around it.
Moving the prongs in two directions provides tension and they become
somewhat spring-loaded to hold the gemstone securely.
The vector gemstone tightening method is taught in the GIA Jewelry

Manufacturing Arts program. To learn more about GIA’s Jewelry
Manufacturing Arts short lab and longer term on-campus classes, visit
www.gia.edu. To see a video on vector tightening of a loose gemstone set
into a four-prong mounting, go to http://www.gia.edu/research-resources/
library/tips-from-the-bench/index.html. [CJ]
Douglas Hall is GIA’s Jewelry Manufacturing Arts Instructor and Mark B.

Mann is GIA’s Jewelry Manufacturing Arts Global Director.
WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 CJ 45

gemologyfeature
sectionheader
Canada:
A Gem Nation?
Even though diamonds take the spotlight, our country produces some other amazing stones
By Duncan Parker
T
wenty years ago, anyone in the gem trade would raise their gems for decades. Sadly, many of them are not considered economically
eyebrows if you said Canada was a gem-producing nation. “What viable to mine. Nevertheless, some gems manage to “make the cut.”
gems?” they’d ask.
Nephrite jade, for instance, has been mined in British Columbia for centuries,
Canada is known internationally as a country of “hewers of wood and being used for tools by local First Nations peoples due to its strength and
drawers of water.” We produce natural resources that aren’t known for toughness. In the last century, it’s said that Chinese workers in the Fraser
their beauty so much as their practicality. Minerals such as manganese, Valley recognized nephrite among the pebbles and boulders in the river and
titanium, iron and beryllium don’t sound very exciting, and are primarily sent this rough material to China for carving and processing into decorative
mined for manufacturing. For the most part, we export raw materials and items such as polar bears and penguins. B.C.’s nephrite jade is collected along
import manufactured goods. the Fraser River, and is sometimes removed by helicopter to the factories
where it is sawn and prepared for sale. There are some companies that make
However, in the few short years since Canada’s first diamond mine, Ekati, tiles of this green gem in Canada. B.C. jade is sold all over the world.
opened in October 1998, our country has become an important gem
producer, mostly thanks to its four current diamond mines – Ekati, Diavik, Ammolite is also a gem known to every visitor to our country. Unique
and Snap Lake in the Northwest Territories, and Victor in Ontario. to Canada, ammolite is found in fossil beds in Alberta and the brilliantly
Even though diamonds get all the press, Canada has been producing other iridescent ammonite shell has been commercially mined since the 1970s.
XX-XX.CJ_Gemology2.indd 46 5/12/11 2:36:35 PM

Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1A
ATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8
Sooner or later, the world’s most

extraordinary gems will cross paths with
RAHUL KADAKIA.
Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas,
shares priceless insight into the jewelry business
and the value of an expert education.
A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to
constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and
well-rounded businessman.
Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had
my first interview with the company.
Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA.
The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.
Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people
a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.
Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then
for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.
Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all,
keep learning every day.
GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further
world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU
AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113 PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119
CanadianJeweller_FNL.indd 1 3/9/11 9:35 AM
ADVERTISER: GIA ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller
CJ.Apr_GIA.indd 1 5/11/11 9:57:59 AM
gemologyfeature
“Amethyst is mined in Thunder Bay, Ont. and is

found in nice-looking, transparent crystals.”
Its layered structure produces colours that can cover the spectrum and country well. In fact, Wilson spends his summers in the more remote parts
prove to be quite vivid in appearance. The material is inherently thin and of Canada, doing exploratory or geological research work, and while he is
is usually sold as a doublet or triplet, sometimes stabilized with polymer exploring, he often seeks gem materials. Knowing the geology of the region
resins. In terms of colour, the ammolite looks a little like opal, and can show he visits, he is able to determine what gem materials might likely be found
flashes of virtually any colour, from pinpoints to large patches. Ammolite in any given area.
is sold loose and mounted in precious metal jewellery.
During his presentations at conferences, Wilson has described finds of topaz
In addition to being sold in Canada’s principal tourist centres, ammolite has in B.C., blue spinel, lapis lazuli, and sapphire in Baffin Island, for example.
successfully been sold through shopping channels in a number of countries. These sources, as with the emerald source in the Yukon, are remote and
The gem is sold unmounted and also in jewellery designed to highlight costly to exploit, and may not yield gems able to compete, price-wise, with
the cabochon-cut gems. Until diamonds were discovered, ammolite was those extracted from warm places with easy access and local, inexpensive
the most consistently successful gem extraction and finishing business in labour. The only way these sources of interesting but costly gems can make
Canada. The Korite Company was the first to commercially mine ammolite economic sense is if they are marketed as a unique specialty product.
and remains the principal operator.
Sodalite is a blue gem mined in Bancroft, Ont. This gem doesn’t really
Several years ago, emeralds were discovered in the Yukon Territory. The compete with lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, but at least you don’t have to
stones were very exciting and received a lot of attention at the time. The deal with an armed conflict. Sodalite is a slightly mottled, nearly opaque,
discovery of emeralds, as it often happens, was accidental: geologist William dark blue gem that is used for beads, carvings and cabochons.
A. Wengzynowski stumbled onto them while exploring for something
entirely different. The source is relatively small, and being in the Yukon, Another gem from that region is apatite. This stone can be green, yellow
located in a cold and inhospitable environment at certain times of the year. or blue, but the ones usually found in Ontario are yellowish green and
These conditions, combined with the translucent nature of the emeralds, often look a little like peridot. It is often transparent and was commercially
led from excitement to putting development on the back burner. marketed in Ontario in the 1970s as “trilliumite,” after Ontario’s provincial
flower. Apatite is also soft and is best not worn as a ring stone. It didn’t last
The Stone Searcher long as a commercially marketed gem.
Canadian Gemmological Association vice-president, Bradley Wilson,
of Alpine Gems, is someone who knows gem sources in our Amethyst is another gem that represents the province. It is mined in
Thunder Bay and is found in nice-looking, transparent crystals.
This purple variety of quartz is available in very large
quantities from Brazil, where larger supplies and lower
labour costs keep the Ontario gems a novelty item
for local collectors and as souvenirs. There
are areas in Ontario where
amethysts can be
collected for a fee.

gemologyfeature
Miner for a day garnet) is actually found at Asbestos, Que., and the cinnamon-coloured
Speaking of which, fee collecting is another way to make a Canadian gem hessonite garnet is found at Mont Ste Hillaire, Que. These gems are rare
source economically viable. In the Okanagan Valley in B.C., for example, Bob and important collector specimens from Canada, but are actually also very
Yorke-Hardy discovered opal (yes, in Canada!), and though the mine isn’t able wearable.
to produce huge quantities of the gem, it’s able to support a business, including
a fee for collecting system. The way this works is that the visitor pays $50 and On the east coast, we have a gem that bears the name of its origins: Labradorite.
can collect for the day, taking away as much as 2.5kg of material. Some of the This gem, found of course in Newfoundland and Labrador, is an iridescent
opal really is very pretty, with good flashes of mixed bright colours. stone that looks translucent and grey, but has a blue to green reflective flash,
like a moonstone. This gem is mined on a small scale in Labrador.
In order to have a viable fee for collecting business there must be enough
material to support it, it must be near to roads so that visitors can get there, Another couple of gems that bear local names are perthite and bytownite,
and the gem material should be recognizable so the visitors can find it. named after both Perth, and Bytown, Ont. Perthite has a light, whitish grey
Fortunately, opals fit the bill. colour with a blue iridescent flash. Bytownite can be transparent and is
sometimes faceted as a light yellowish gem.
Some gems are not accessible or don’t look like much when they are in the
ground. Identifying them requires specialists, such as Wilson. In fact, it’s We all know Canada is a vast and diverse country and can yield so much by
possible to purchase Canadian gems he has found, collected and polished. way of wealth. We also know that this great country offers some of the finest
The gems he carries aren’t in huge quantities or calibrated in sizes, they gems in the form of diamonds, yet it is equally exciting to learn that it hides
are more one-of-a-kind and often unusual, like scapolite from Kimmirut, these secret caches of other gems that are worth looking into and marketing
in Nunavut. Demantoid garnet (yes, the most collectible and costly green as our own. [CJ]
www.canadianjeweller.com | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJ 49

Tool Ad 0
CJ_Noble.indd 2 5/11/11 9:58:54 AM

Tool Ad 05-2011_Tool Ad 05-2011 11-05-06 6:32 AM Page 1
e 96.
CJ_Noble.indd 3 5/11/11 9:59:15 AM

It
Family
runs
in the
Barthau Jewellers built its reputation on three

generations of jewellers and watchmakers
BY CARLOS WEIGLE
photography by Deryck Lewis • styling by kelechi achonu
XX-XX.CJ_CoverStory_REV.indd 52 5/12/11 12:57:18 PM

coverstory
Darren and David Barthau. www.canadianjeweller.com | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJ 53

D Determination, craftsmanship, work ethic … When you carry
all those qualities in your blood, it’s not easy to escape from your
destiny. In fact, it’s best to embrace it, value what you have and start
on your own path. David Barthau knows this process very well.
His started, as it often happens, with his parents. His father, Lloyd,
was very sick when he was young. “After he left the hospital,” recalls
David, “he was told he wouldn’t be able to walk. Against all odds, he
learned how to walk again. He trained as a watchmaker and was so
determined that he left his crutches behind on his first day at work.”
A watchmaker was born. Lloyd was also someone who could lift his eyes
from the workbench and envision a life in the jewellery business. “He
always wanted to have his own store,” says David. “As a kid, I remember
he would constantly be looking at different places to open one. Dad
ended up seeing a place in Markham, on the main street. It was an old
shoe store that had originally been a bank. He ended up buying the
property, renovating it and putting an addition in the back, since we were
going to live upstairs.”
Becoming a jeweller took a lot of effort and training, which he developed

while doing trade work from his house, prior to opening the store in ’68, since
he was primarily a watchmaker. “He worked long hours, and hard. He was
a hands-on kind of person, one who would give that personalized service.
That generated a lot of admiration and respect for him,” says David.
The first years were not easy; when the store first opened, David was going
to school, doing the odd jobs and living with his father in Markham while
his mother remained in Toronto. The passion for watchmaking and fine
craftsmanship was passed on to David, yet he explored other options. In
high school he was specializing in electronics. As he recalls, “I could just
see the advancement in that field, switching from tubes to transistors. I
could also see the transistor would only be temporary, before something
else came along. I then realized I didn’t want to be in a field that was
constantly changing. Who knew that jewellery and watches would change
as much as they have!”

coverstory
That, added to his mechanical skills and family background, put David back
in the path of becoming a watchmaker. He started working with jewellery,
training in the store, and discovered he actually enjoyed it. Following in his
father’s steps, he enrolled to learn the trade at George Brown College in Toronto,
later rounding out his education with a scholarship program with WOSTEP in
Switzerland. He later became an instructor at George Brown College.
Just like Lloyd, David wanted to have his own store, which he opened,
along with his wife Janet, in 1978. The chosen location was in Stouffville,
Ont., not too far from his father’s original store. Both stores bore the
“When we sell Ontario
name Barthau Jewellers. “We ran them independently but together,”
explains David. “We’d advertise together and if somebody wanted to
diamonds, we’re able
return something to my store that they’d bought at his store, I would
accept it.” Of course each one of them had his own management style,
to sell something that is
yet that didn’t create any conflicts. “We always got along quite well,” socially, environmentally and
says David.
economically advantageous.”
Such a strong legacy was bound to go on. Darren, the eldest of David
and Janet’s three kids, decided to join the business. Surprisingly, his parents
were not thrilled at first. They talked to him about the really long hours,
especially over the holidays, when everyone is celebrating, as well as other
challenges that come with the territory. Nevertheless, Darren had already
acquired a taste for jewellery and watches and couldn’t be dissuaded. He did
his formal training at George Brown College and the resident program at GIA
in Carlsbad, California. Of course he also learned a lot just by being around
his parents in the store. “He’s now a Master Graduate Gemologist and he really
excels at what he does,” says David.
A very special diamond
Oftentimes, jewellery has great sentimental value, even when

you’re a jeweller yourself. In David Barthau’s case, it’s his
diamond ring that has a special place in his heart. “When
my grandfather passed away, he left me some money,” he
explains. “So I thought, what best way to honour him than to
buy a diamond in his memory. I picked the nicest one that I saw
at that time, which had a very good cut. I made it into a ring and
have worn it just about every day since.” Also of sentimental
value is his wedding band, which he’ll have to change since
it’s becoming too thin. Ironically, he can’t make up his mind:
“I do designs all the time, yet I haven’t come across the one
that I want.”

Nowadays, father and son work together in their Stouffville location, Darren more on the business
side and David enjoying working on jewellery and watches. Does David see Darren opening up his
own store, just like he did? “No, I think it will be more like me backing out and him taking over.”
To keep abreast of the trends, styles and business practices you have to be involved, and David
credits that to their close to 30-year involvement with both the Canadian Jewellery Group (CJG)
and the Independent Jewelers Organization (IJO), the networking and training – as well the Internet
discussion channels – for helping them move forward.
Creating something from scratch or giving an old piece a new lease on life is what makes David’s
eyes light up. “We design and create. I enjoy taking an old piece of jewellery and modifying it. I
remember we once took an old watch and turned it into a pendant – it was a phenomenal piece.”
Things have definitely changed, from a technical standpoint, since David learned the basics with
his father. Even though he still uses the workbench Lloyd had, he’s also incorporated the latest
technologies into creating beautiful jewellery. “I’ve been using computer-assisted design and
milling for the past five to eight years. These are great tools, since we can show the customer an
image of what we’re going to make for them before we even start working in metal.”
Customers’ needs have also changed. “When dad started the business, there was a lot of giftware
and figurines, along with the watches and jewellery.” They’re better informed and more demanding.
They’d also rather buy local, even when it comes to jewellery. As David puts it: “Today, when we sell
Ontario diamonds, we’re able to sell something that is socially, environmentally and economically
advantageous. Also, when you’re dealing with Victor (Ontario) diamonds, you know you're getting
only the top 10 per cent, so when a customers buys one, they know it’s more of a premium diamond.”
David proudly says that he owns the 51st certified Ontario diamond. He and Janet have also visited
the Diavik diamond mine in the Northwest Territories. “It was quite an experience that we were
later able to relay to our customers.”
David Barthau admires

a handful of Ontario’s
Victor diamonds (far
left); David and his
wife Janet at the Diavik
diamond mine in the
Northwest Territories
(top and left).

coverstory
A Pandora bracelet can be

customized with more than
600 available chain pieces.
The jewellery landscape has also changed significantly. “To compete today
you’ve got to have the brands and products people want. Yet you want
to be able to sell something you can stand behind. When customers
come into the store, they want an experience,” says David. He notices
that “these days, younger people want larger diamonds – and to pay less
for them.” He acknowledges the spectacular rise of Pandora – “it reminds that’s been a family heirloom and bringing it back to life. Also redesigning,
me of the charm fever of the ’70s” and points out the success of the ELLE taking a piece, keeping its original intent and making something new out
jewellery line. of it. That’s kind of fun!”
Customers want convenience as well. That’s what made the Barthaus move, Actually, when you’re David Barthau, there is something better than that:
a few months ago, from their downtown Stouffville location to one with helping those in your community. Eleven years ago, the jeweller started,
better access, lots of parking and surrounded by other big stores. “Our look along with the local Lions Club, the Lions Vision Screening program for
is also more modern,” adds David. That is evident when you go into the children. “That’s probably the biggest project I’ve been involved with,” he
store, a bright, open and sophisticated space. Gone are the creaking floors admits. The program has successfully detected children with previously
and the “character” of the old store where they spent the last two and a half undiagnosed vision problems who were wrongly believed to have learning
decades. There’s an inevitable hint of nostalgia in the air but there’s also the disabilities.
sense that the new location is going to improve their customers’ shopping
experience. In spite of the new environment, the Barthau’s dedication The Barthaus have also been involved in other community projects, such as
remains strong. “We are in a small town,” explains David, “and if you are Wings of Freedom (an organization that helps abused women) and Charity
not reputable, you won’t be in business for long.” Angels, as well as sponsoring Whistle Radio, a local community radio
station. David’s efforts haven’t gone unnoticed: last year he was the recipient
Adapting to rapidly-changing times is essential to keep you in any business. of the first lifetime achievement award given by the Whitchurch-Stouffville
Keeping the passion alive is probably equally important. “For me, it’s the Chamber of Commerce.
satisfaction of having someone wear something that we made, a symbol of
their love, one that will be cherished by a family for generations. I mean, what The family tradition goes on. The hours spent trying to find the perfect
can be better than that?” asks David with a smile. “Or even restoring a piece shape for a ring or getting lost in the intricacies of a watch mechanism were
well spent. The eternal search for beauty and the struggle to find balance in
an unbalanced world will never cease. David Barthau and his family know
all of this well. It’s in their blood, after all. [CJ]

Sliced sapphire necklace from Yvel’s
Jewellery
Rainbow Collection.
s the jewellery industry recovers from the
redefined
recession, a few trends begin to emerge.
Perhaps most significant is that the classics
– a “safe” route throughout the recession–have taken
a back seat. And in their place: unconventional
designs. According to retailers, designers and other
industry experts, as the economy shows signs of
recovery, the consumer mindset on fine jewellery
2011’s top trends . . . with staying power for 2012 has shifted, repositioning non-traditional designs
firmly up front. With this emerging desire for non-
By Lorraine DePasque
traditional, the design community has responded
by originating collections with new alloys, unusual
metal mixes and gems not recently seen in fine
fabrications.
XX-XX.CJ_ProductFocus.indd 58 5/12/11 10:40:55 AM

productfocus
“Collector” Cachet
Meg Henne Gibson, owner of Henne Jewelers, Pittsburgh, Pa., says, “Now
is the time to look for out-of-the-ordinary collector-type pieces. For the
past two years, consumers have focused on price point, but now they will
be actively searching for something more expensive, as long as the pieces
are unusual, valuable and collectible. We’re seeing that our clients demand
Alex Sepkus and other collector pieces – and it has made us realize that, as
a retailer, we need to get out of our comfort zone of thinking our customers
are still overly price-conscious.”
Toronto-based jewellery designer Anne Sportun has seen this new

“collector trumps price” consumer mindset firsthand. “Our jewellers
are telling us that their customers want something to pass down.
More so than in the past, their purchasing seems to have become
very emotional. When we introduced our Stardust collection last
year, our retailers bought the smaller pendant, which retails at
about $3,500. But now they’re coming back and trading it in for
the larger one, which sells for $4,600. They say their customer
wants something special – that’s what’s important right now.”
At Greenwich Jewellers in New York City’s Wall Street district,

owner Jennifer Gandia says, “This year we’re really looking for
collections that are distinctive – new designers with a unique point
of view – because we see that’s what our customer wants.”
Jeanne Johngren, owner of Jeanne Johngren Design, Princeton, NJ, and

president of the Contemporary Jewellery Design Group (CJDG), says, “One
of the strongest trends right now is the consumer really caring about the
Huge, coloured stones, such as the
individuality of a product. As a result of the economic slump, they’ve come labradorite featured in this Anne
to a place where quality and greater acceptance of the unconventional are Sportun ring, are all the rage.
important. And the story behind the artwork of the product is now more
important than ever.”
KEY CLASSIFICATIONS:
> Ultra-long necklaces: 40- to 72-inch lengths for layering and wrapping, usually featuring bold gemstone colour and large ornamental sections of
metal, some with matching bracelets to add length.
> Bracelets: Three types, including: cuffs that aren’t bulky, often in paper-thin metal or with cutouts; bangles in medium widths, not as thin as
before; designs with interchangeable elements.
> Coloured-stone Fashion Rings: Many one-of-a-kind styles, frequently with textured surfaces and bezels. Great attention to details.
> Linear Drop Earrings: Thin, not quite touching the shoulder, usually with gumdrops of color at bottom.
> Pendants: Medium-sized, particularly in darkened non-precious alternative metals, palladium and ultra-high-karat yellow gold touches.

productfocus
Ultra–long necklaces featuring metal

are here to stay, as shown in this
blackened sterling-silver ball pendant,
by Dana David.
Metals: Mixed and Darkened gane technique. He typically mixes silver with 18k
That said, one of this year’s biggest stories is mixed yellow gold, 22k “lemon gold,” steel and palladium. “I
metals, often precious mixed with alternative metals, like the look of palladium white gold,” he says, “because
including titanium, stainless steel and bronze. From I don’t have to plate it in order for it to be white.”
new, proprietary alloy mixes to creative combinations
of three, four and more different metals on a single piece, At this time, palladium is positioned to become even
such innovation is, in fact, creating an exciting chapter in stronger in the coming year, as Palladium Alliance
the industry as a whole. “Designers are doing things International is currently developing plans to launch
like alloy exploration to set themselves apart,” says its largest-ever U.S. trade and consumer marketing
Johngren. “Innovators like Pamela Froman, Aaron campaign to promote palladium jewellery. It will
Henry, and Gurhan give them a new palette to highlight designers who are embracing the precious
explore.” Gurhan, known for his signature 24k metal – which (at press time) was little more than
yellow gold, introduced a collection in Basel that half the price of gold.
marries his 24k with patinated cast bronze.
Non-traditional bridal
“Gold mixed with other metals continues to be a big When talking trends, one of the notable directions
trend this year, given the volatile metals market, says is unconventional bridal – in the metals, the gems and
Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jewelers Resource Bureau. the styling. Edelstein says, “Contemporary metals, such
“And we’re seeing fine jewellery retailers open to lots of new as titanium and cobalt alloys, are getting stronger in the bridal
ideas like this, which will give them fashion and creativity at affordable market.” Elizabeth Mandros Miller, owner of Mystique Fine Jewelry Design
price points – for example, under $1,500.” in Alexandria, Va., says that with the growing popularity of darkened
surfaces, she’s even selling wedding bands with oxidized gold finishes. “And
Quebec’s Pierre-Yves Paquette of Pierre-Yves Joaillier, Saint-Sauveur, our customers, particularly younger ones, like unusual cuts, for example,
Que., agrees, saying when he exhibited at the Buyers Market of American rough diamond centres.” Anne Sportun says her rough diamond centre
Craft Show in February, this is what jewellers were really interested in, bridal designs are also popular. “But this year, I can’t keep up with the
especially pieces with more silver. “And they like the oxidized silver – more demand for our engagement rings with diamond slices, including milky
toward black – with touches of karat gold,” he says, “and my pieces that whites, grays and browns.”
mix blackened steel.” The blackened direction is very strong, underscores
Edelstein. “It started out small a few years ago, but now it is one of the most Even if the stone is a more traditional round, says Pierre-Yves Paquette,
important looks in jewellery fashion.” “The younger generation just doesn’t seem to want a traditional colorless
diamond centre anymore.” One of his best-selling engagement rings over
Paquette creates pieces that are fashion-directional and, at the same time, the past year has been a handcrafted mokume gane design that – in mixes
highly collectible, as they’re often handcrafted by the artist in the mokume of different metals – is set with a champagne, blue or pink diamond.

COVER THE
PULSE OF TIME

COVER REFLECTIONS
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productfocus
A Colour Explosion
With all precious metal prices hitting new price highs, a huge focus of new
collections is on coloured stones – and especially huge stones. Many of
the gems being used are those not widely chosen by contemporary fine
jewellery designers in the recent past – sugilite, aquamarine, and green
opal, for example. As you shop for the fall and holiday seasons, keep in
mind three gem colour stories: green, blue and purple. Within those, watch
out for some of this year’s favorites:
GREEN: Chrysoprase, moonstone, tourmaline, prehnite, fluorite (green
quartz), fancy sapphire, green opal, green garnet and jade.
BLUE: Aquamarine, tourmaline, turquoise and sapphire. Lapis (if
designers can get it) and moonstone and labradorite (both huge last year)
are still appearing in some collections.
PURPLE: Sugilite, violet quartz, lavender jade, fancy sapphire and
eggplant-hued Tahitians. And amethyst, as always.
Sapphire’s Spectrum Sparkles

Did you notice that sapphire appears in all three gem colour groupings?
That’s because it’s a key trend this year. Taking a cue from retailers who
say their customer is craving something different, an increasing number of
designers are concentrating on the many shades of sapphire and frequently
Blackened sterling-silver and 18k gold
mixing those shades on a single piece. Where once the consumer ring, with lapis-lazuli, diamonds and
thought of this corundum as a gem in the blue family only, the collective tsavorites, by John Apel.
understanding has finally broadened.
In Basel, Yvel’s 18k gold natural sapphire Rainbow Collection of slices of

sapphire in blues, greys, greens, pinks and purples, was one of its strongest
purchases – with or without diamond accents. Anne Sportun says, “My Fine Jewellery Advertisers in this issue
sapphire Stardust collection, which mixes fancies, is absolutely my hottest
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w: www.mcdpearls.com TIG Group
Midas Jewelry t: 866.682.6823
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t: 800.216.0899
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Sportun’s Stardust ring shine.

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CJ_Muehle-Glashuette.indd 1 5/11/11 10:03:37 AM

A leap of
faith PAJ bets on ELLE, a sterling silver fashion
jewellery line, and it pays off, big time
BY CARLOS WEIGLE
ELLE Jewellery “Heart of Hearts”

Collection, sterling silver 3 in 1
Forever Heart pendant 18”
XX-XX.CJ_CompanyProfile2.indd 64 5/12/11 11:48:48 AM

companyprofile
ELLE Jewellery “Harmony”

Collection, sterling silver oval
N
ew ideas are link rose quartz bracelet, 7.5” collections worldwide. They found just
certainly risky – that with Claire Vessot. The Montreal-
you venture into based designer managed “to interpret
uncharted waters and, every market in a way that worked,”
even if you have a great says Frick-Milan. “They also wanted to
concept in mind, there’s make sure that when you see a jewellery
no way of knowing piece, you know that it’s ELLE.” The
how the market will award-winning designer made the ELLE
react to it. Starting with brand recognizable with the way she draws
a well-recognized brand is inspiration from everyday items. As Frick-
a good first step, yet it offers no Milan puts it “she sees beauty in everything.”
guarantees. So when ELLE – the
world’s largest fashion magazine – Pricing, packaging, design and materials are the
decided to create its own sterling silver key elements that made the ELLE brand distinct and
jewellery brand, some had their doubts. recognizable. Bold reds represent the brand’s trademark color,
in addition to the signature genuine ruby incorporated into the
In 2002, ELLE partnered with Dallas-based company, Prime Art and Jewel, design of each and every ELLE piece. “We also work with a lot of semi-
to make this vision a reality. Founded by Felix Chen in 1976, PAJ is one of precious stones,” explains Frick-Milan, “such as black onyx, rose and smoky
the world’s largest jewellery manufacturers and distributors, with offices quartz, mother of pearl…”
in New York, Dallas and Toronto – which was established in 1997 with the
purchase of Bijoux Continental. A fully integrated jewellery company, PAJ’s Another element that helped put customers at ease was the fact that ELLE
strengths in design, production, and distribution of sterling silver jewellery Jewellery started making rhodium-plated pieces, which protects against
made them the perfect fit for expanding the ELLE brand into the world of tarnishing. That initiative started in Canada and was afterwards adopted by
fashion jewellery. the U.S., when they realized how that plating choice provides the benefit of
low maintenance for customers.
The ELLE jewellery line was launched in Canada in 2003, but not without
challenges. “Back then, the thought of sterling silver in a jewellery store was Even though PAJ’s private brand business is still doing extremely well –
almost unheard of. Most jewellers didn’t think silver fashion jewellery was the company has clients such as Wal Mart, Zellers, The Bay, Sears and The
such a great idea, and customers wanted gold, since that was the precious Shopping Channel – the ELLE Jewellery line has been a constant reason for
metal of choice. But, once they saw the actual items and recognized how joy. “It grew 25 to 30 per cent every year over the last three years, and we’re
beautiful and well made they were, the retailers were easily won over,” recalls expecting a 15 to 20 per cent growth in 2011,” says Frick-Milan. It has also
Mary Frick-Milan, PAJ Canada’s Vice President of Sales & Marketing. In been a positive influence for other reasons. “We never had a jewellery line
spite of the difficulties, there was something unique about ELLE Jewellery that was as fun to sell as ELLE,” she admits. “We’re passionate about the
that allowed it to stand the test of time. product, we love it, and we wear it. So, I think it makes it an easy sell.” [CJ]
From that point on, the ELLE Jewellery brand soared to new heights. From
being just a small percentage of PAJ’s total revenue in Canada, it soon became
a major part of it (the rest is composed by PAJ’s department store private ELLE Jewellery “Reflections”
Collection, sterling silver
brands). Pricing was also a deciding factor in the brand’s success. With most ring and wide cuff
pieces averaging $100 – $200, it suddenly became affordable to own well-
designed, precious metal jewellery. As Frick-Milan explains it, “it filled a gap
in the market, since there were no jewellery lines that made sterling silver
pieces with the type of fashion appeal that ELLE had: we were able to offer
something that no one else could, at prices people could afford.”
EVERYTHING IS BEAUTIFUL
Design, of course, was also crucial. ELLE wanted to find someone who could
bridge the North-American/European divide and be a passionate drive for its
XX-XX.CJ_CompanyProfile2.indd 65 5/12/11 11:49:00 AM

MODERN
CLASSIC
66 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 |
XX-XX.CJ_BaselWorld.indd 66
A Vintage themes and new technologies
dominate Baselworld 2011 while the
watch industry celebrates the return to
record sales.
WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
BY CARLOS WEIGLE WITH OLIVIER FELICIO IN BASEL
5/12/11 5:22:06 PM
baselfeature
XX-XX.CJ_BaselWorld.indd 67 5/12/11 5:22:21 PM

Rado – Ceramica White, a fully ceramic
timepiece with a sleek bracelet-style
white band and gold dial.
I
n today’s world, words have certainly become devalued, while numbers after two particularly positive months at the start of the year. And they
seem to provide reassurance and speak louder than anything else. So were certainly fulfilled.”
while many analysts touted Baselworld 2011 as an undisputed success
and proof that the recession is over – at least for the global watch industry Canadians who attended the show also agree. “There was certainly a
– the annual Swiss show had some numbers to back that up. positive buzz at Basel,” confirms J. Kevin Kaye, president of Citizen Watch
Company of Canada (read our interview with Kaye on page 32). Kaye also
A total of 1,892 exhibitors enthusiastically welcomed a crowd of 103,200 confirms the main trends observed in Basel: “New technologies abound.
visitors (up 2.5 per cent compared to last year and the second best result of There was also more of a resurgence of simple, classic designs.”
all times) and 3,055 media representatives (a 5 per cent increase over last
year) from more than 100 countries. Sales, most importantly, were also Olivier Felicio, Canadian Jeweller’s editor-in-chief, who also attended the
on the positive side. In fact, a recent report by Global Industry Analysts Swiss watch show, agrees: “You could see a combination of old and modern
estimates the global watch market will reach US$46.6 billion by 2017. Much elements at work; vintage elements were matched with incredible technical
of that growth is predicted to come from China, which has become the innovations.”
second largest market for luxury watches in the world. Meanwhile, other
emerging markets, especially Brazil, are expected to grow quite rapidly. The recent recession made the brands revisit their most iconic models and
elements in search of something that could stand the test of time, instead
As Jacques J. Duchêne, president of the Exhibitors’ Committee summarized of trying to launch a completely new – and possibly short-lived fad. They
after the show’s closing, “We can speak of an excellent year. We, as wanted to show customers that they care for their heritage while showcasing
exhibitors, are very satisfied and have achieved highly gratifying sales. The their technical advancements. The new sobriety made for thinner cases (at
expectations for this year’s Baselworld were exceptionally high – precisely least in men’s watches) and fewer diamond-heavy bezels.

baselfeature
1. Ulysse Nardin – Freak Diavolo

The Freak Diavolo boasts an ultramodern and
daring design with escapement wheels built
entirely out of silicium and a tourbillon carousel
that has no true dial, crown or hands.
2.Hublot – MP-02 Key of Time

Crafted by a team of 30 watch artisans, this
futuristic timepiece is set in rugged titanium on
a black rubber strap and allows its wearer to
manually adjust the speed of time to their liking.
1 2
3. HermÈs – Arceau Le Temps Suspendu
This classic circular dial accessorized by a
crocodile-skin band is reflective of its name by
allowing its wearer to literally suspend time with
the press of a button.
4. FrÉdÉrique Constant – Amour Heart Beat

Collection
Designed to seduce a woman, the pieces in
the new Amour Heart Beat Collection exude
femininity with a heart-shaped decoration and
“Amour” written out on the dial.
5. Tag Heuer – Mikrotimer Flying 1000

4
The first ever chronograph to measure the 3
1/1000th of a second, the Mikrotimer is a highly
complex mechanism marked by a bold and
sophisticated design.

baselfeature Swarovski – Elis Lady & Mini
This timepiece features a crystal mesh strap
and a square-shaped dial decorated by nine
hand-applied clear crystals.
Swatch Group’s
Taryn Doobay With so many top-notch exhibitors, it was hard to pick favourites. Some
and Olivier Felicio brands, though, really managed to stand out. One of them was certainly
TAG Heuer. In the technology front, they struck with the Mikrotimer
Rado’s Firsts Flying 1000, the only mechanical chronograph to measure and display
With such an amazing array of brands asking for attention, it’s 1/1,000th of a second with an oscillating system that vibrates 125 times
very easy to get lost in the crowd. Rado (part of the Swatch faster than most existing chronographs. As for a vintage watch, TAG drew
Group) is not at risk for that. In fact, it came well-prepared to inspiration from its illustrious sports heritage to launch a new version of
Baselworld, with two “firsts” in hand. a classic: the Monza Automatic Chronograph Calibre 36. This timepiece
One is the True Thinline, which at a mere 5 mm tall –and a quartz – one that brings back memories of Ferrari’s F1 successes in the ‘70s –
movement of less than 1mm – it is the world’s thinnest ceramic combines sleek looks with a full-throttle Calibre 36 movement.
watch. The eye-catching timepiece features clear gold coloured
indexes accentuated by the fully integrated domed sapphire Ulysse Nardin, which lost its president last April (see page 32), had another hit
crystal. The case and buckle, both in high-tech ceramics, fit with the launch of a new version of its popular Freak line, the Freak Diavolo.
perfectly into the integrated rubber bracelet. Among other advancements, the Diavolo uses silicium in its hairspring and
A leader in the use of ceramics in watches, Rado also announced throughout the majority of its escapement. To avoid a possible shortage of
another first, the introduction of Ceramos, a fusion of high-tech silicium in the market, Ulysse Nardin announced it has purchased 50 per cent
ceramic and metal that results in a very light but extremely hard of Sigatec, a company dedicated to producing silicon micro-parts. Another
material. It also adjusts quickly to skin temperature, offering innovation is Caliber 118, the first member of a family of movements with
unrivalled comfort levels when used to make watch bracelets an in-house-produced and patented DIAMonSIL – an alliance of silicium
and cases. Now available in the D-Star collection, Ceramos puts and man-made diamonds – escapement. In terms of classic designs, Ulysse
Rado as a front-runner in terms of innovative watch materials. Nardin presented Alexander the Great, a new addition to its Minute Repeater
Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts line.
On the fashion watch side Swarovski jumped on the ceramic wagon in

its own, unique way. The Octea Sport White Ceramic is cut from a single
ceramic piece, with a sunray pattern, which proved to be a challenge,
especially in terms of the unidirectional rotating bezel. In keeping things
fresh, the company also showcased its new men’s watches line.

www.pierrelaurent.com
CJ_PIerre Laurent.indd 1 5/11/11 10:04:22 AM

baselfeature
Speaking of fresh ideas, Frederique Constant hired ShuQi, a famous

Taiwanese-born movie star (possibly trying to target the growing Asian
market) to design its lovely Amour Ladies Automatic Collection. The
company is also focusing its effort on another booming demographic,
girls aged 12 to 16 (with its new Junior Ladies Collection), as part of a very
aggressive expansion plan.
Also focused on the younger spectrum of the market is TechnoMarine, which

attracted good crowds with its eye-catching sport models and innovations
including a ceramic bracelet for its Cruise Ceramic collection.
One company that did really well with an homage to vintage designs was
Hamilton. The American brand showcased the new Thin-O-Matic, honouring
the flattest automatic watch of the ‘60s; the Pan-Europ, a technologically
advanced timepiece inspired on a watch from the early ‘70s; and the Lady
Hamilton Vintage, a tribute to an original piece launched in 1908.
Another American company, Jorg Gray – the one that famously landed
Hublot’s Marine on President Obama’s wrist – garnered attention with its first Baselworld
Lemonnier Brennan appearance. Jorg Gray also recently announced a partnership with
and Olivier Felicio
Canadian IndyCar superstar, Alex Tagliani.
Hublot, wild at heart
If cutting-edge – whether in terms of mechanics or design – is More vintage themes were brought up by Ingersoll with its Mickey Mouse
your thing, then Hublot is your brand. This year the company ‘30s Collection, which brings back a successful line of watches centred on
managed to impress…again! Jean-Claude Biver, the company’s the Disney character, originally launched in 1933. The collection retains
CEO put on a great show while presenting their new watches the look of the original watches and includes not only wristwatches but
at Basel, even though some of them were so stunning they also whimsical pocket watches.
probably didn’t even need an introduction.
Especially when we’re talking about the MP-02 Key of Time, Overall, Baselworld 2011 proved to be a good omen of great things to come:
the second member of the Masterpiece collection (launched a market that shows signs of economic recovery, increasing sales, beautiful
last January). This engineering achievement allows customers designs and technical prowess. The rest, only time will tell. [CJ]
to “modulate” time to their liking. In fact, it can make time
run “slower” or “faster” and then take you back to “real” time
whenever you wish - or need – to. Made of microblasted titanium Watch Advertisers in this issue
with black DLC coating, this was one of the stars of the show. Banda Pierre Laurent
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for hours and the other for minutes). Muehle-Glashuette Stuller
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Odyssey
t: 905.886.9966

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AIR MILES ® CORPORATE INCENTIVES
Logos Provided
These are the logos that will be provided to you. These graph
The English colour version is used as the primary example in
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Fax: 514-337-4581 Toll-free: 800-561-3214 CORPORATE INCENTIVES
CJ_Wengers.indd 1
CJ_AUG09_Wengers_Ad.indd 1 5/11/11
7/16/09 10:15:23 AM
2:19:19 PM
French – Available in Spot (Pantone), Process (CMYK, RGB
LO
The Colour of
VE
74
Anita Agrawal creates timeless pieces with coloured gemstones
CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 |
XX-XX.CJ_DesignerProfile.indd 74
www.canadianjeweller.com
By Bonnie Siegler
5/12/11 1:48:55 PM
designerprofile
Anita Agrawal.
E
ven though she is not a jewellery designer by trade, Canadian native Anita
Agrawal has 15 years’ experience in the fine jewellery, manufacturing and
wholesale industry. She also has a background in social anthropology,
e-business and politics. Most recently, Agrawal has been responsible for website
development, office management and volume corporate sales for her family’s
company, Best Bargains Jewellery, a 2010 PROFIT W100 company. With this
background, Anita combined her love of creativity and jewellery making into
launching her own product line of jewellery in May 2010: “Jewels By Anita.”
“Gold prices were really starting to get very high and yet, there was still a demand
for high-quality, affordable jewellery,” says Agrawal about the inspiration
behind the formation of her product line. “I realized that this could allow me
to try out some unique designs that would be of interest to an emerging middle
market. There is always a demand for quality jewellery, but it’s the nature of
those items that changes.” Indeed, Anita foresaw people purchasing classic
– yet contemporary – pieces that were in the under - $2,000 category instead
of luxury jewellery items. “Jewels by Anita really came out from me trying to
explore custom designing. Best Bargains will be celebrating its 20th year in the
industry, and I wanted to challenge their ideas and bring in something fresh to
our traditional line of products.”
The line, formally established last year, followed a rather organic process. “I was
already fabricating pieces here and there for Best Bargains,” says Agrawal from
her Toronto home. “My company name was suggested by one of our customers
14k Yellow gold fresh water coin pearl necklace, because I am drawn to and use primarily coloured stones for my pieces, and she
accented with smokey quartz with 14k Yellow
gold fresh water coin pearl earrings and 14k thought it reflected the simple elegance of my line.” In fact, Anita’s first jewellery
yellow gold fresh water coin pearl bracelet. design seven years ago was a double blue topaz briolette pendant with a South
Sea pearl. “I have always loved South Sea pearls but found designs with them to
be fairly expensive. Yet I was able to create our design for well under $200, and
it’s still something we have in stock regularly.”
XX-XX.CJ_DesignerProfile.indd 75 5/12/11 1:49:25 PM

designerprofile
1 Having attended major jewellery shows throughout Canada and the world, such as
Inhorgenta, Basel, the Hong Kong Jewellery and Watch Fair, JCK Las Vegas, JCK
Toronto and the Prestige Expo in Montreal as an exhibitor, and working at a
wholesale level, Anita gained valuable knowledge of what people are drawn
to when looking at jewellery. “And that’s primarily value,” she says. “Value is
2 not just about the monetary worth of something, but also about the quality
of product and customer service experience.” Being in this industry from
a young age, Anita has had the opportunity to have an insider’s look into
customer purchasing habits and what design elements have stood the test of
time.
Beginning with sterling silver, Anita has since segued to 14k gold, preferring
this precious metal due to its investment purposes and what it ultimately adds
to the value of the product. “I prefer yellow gold, though a lot of designers have
started liking white metals. Oftentimes, the yellow makes certain stones such
as rubies, tanzanite and emeralds stand out and adds so much more warmth to
the pieces. With my line, I used those classic design elements so that each piece
is something women of all ages can wear throughout the years.”
Ultimately, Anita has determined that frequent buyers of coloured stone

designs are looking for a story to unfold. “Unlike diamonds, coloured stones
offer a story of romance, nostalgia or an escape. People know diamonds, they
understand diamonds and, when you see one, you know what it is emblematic
of, but coloured stones remind us of a place, an adventure, a loved one or a
great vacation. It could be a special someone’s birthstone or a piece of jewellery
3 with a coloured stone that has been handed down to them through generations.”
With Anita’s line, multi-coloured stones are used generously. “They just add such a
huge splash of colour to your wardrobe and really make a bold impression.”
More popular designs run the gamut from earrings to 36-inch opera length necklaces,
with best-selling gemstones being tanzanite, multi-coloured sapphires and mystic
topaz. “Pieces with interesting cuts of gemstones have been very popular, as have
concave cuttings. I have found earrings around $150 wholesale have been consistently
popular with my customers.”
With global sales throughout Canada and the U.S., primarily at small and medium-
sized jewellery stores and chains, what sets this line apart from others is its wearability
and affordability factors. “It’s easy to transition the pieces from daytime casual to a
glamorous evening look. None of the pieces are so delicate that they can only be worn
on special occasions,” says Agrawal. The designs are essentially go-to pieces whether
you’re in jeans and a tee, business suit or an evening outfit.
1) 14k white gold handmade tanzanite earrings, set with over 2 Being a novice in the ever-growing field of jewellery design, Anita says she will continue
carats of tanzanite and accented with white sapphires. creating her popular motifs and begin integrating black and coloured diamonds into her
2) 14k yellow gold handmade multi-coloured sapphire earrings, collection. “My ultimate goal is to create timeless and classic pieces that really showcase
set with over 4 carats of gemstones.
3) 14k yellow gold handmade green amethyst briolette earrings, the gemstone I’m working with and have it do the talking.” For more information about
accented with pink tourmaline. “Jewels by Anita,” please contact Anita at anita@bbjw.com. [CJ]
XX-XX.CJ_DesignerProfile.indd 76 5/12/11 1:49:50 PM

WESTERN CANADIAN
JEWELLERY
E X P O
The WCJEThank you toto
is dedicated allproviding
participating exhibitors,
Canadian sponsors,
jewellery retailersand
withattendees
the best opportunity
for making our 2010 show a huge success.
to discover the latest industry trends offered by the industry’s leading suppliers.
We look forward to seeing you again in 2011!
The perfect place to buy, network and learn.
Don’t miss Canada’s most successful jewellery event.
Shaw Conference Center - Halls B & C ∫ Edmonton, AB
August
Shaw Conference 12th
Center to 14th,
- Halls B &2011
C ∫ Edmonton, AB
www.wcjexpo.comAugust
- email: ulliaclt@shaw.ca
12th to 14th, 2011 - 780.467.9549
inquiries@wcjexpo.com or ulliaclt@shaw.ca - 780.467.9549
www.wcjexpo.com
CJ_WCJE.indd 1 5/11/11 10:07:39 AM

Best Case Scenario
W
hat’s in a watch case? There have
been more developments in new
alloys and materials for watch
cases in the past five years than in the previous
50 years. Not only have we seen titanium and
ceramic take their place alongside steel, gold
and platinum as standard materials for the
construction of watch cases, the emergence
of newly mixed alloys of palladium and
aluminum, among other elements, is also
underway in the laboratories of the big
brands. The following watch brands have
introduced new case materials recently
that, while proprietary for now, give some
indication of the future direction of this
segment of watch engineering.
The case of Richard Mille’s RM038, also known

as the Bubba Watson Tourbillon (named for
the pro golfer) is made of AZ91, an aluminum/
magnesium/zinc alloy, which is then coated
A flurry of new materials and alloys represents with a ceramic compound called titalyt II.
a transformation of the way watches are cased AZ91 is lightweight, yet durable enough to
take the shock of Bubba’s killer drive (he is the
By Carol Besler
longest driver on the PGA Tour). The watch’s
bottom plate, bridges and balance cock are
made of titanium. (Left)
XX-XX.CJ_WatchMaterials.indd 78 5/12/11 1:17:25 PM

watchmaterials
Panerai recently introduced a new case material that is a

composite of aluminum and ceramic, which is highly resistant
to scratches and temperature changes and is lightweight. It
has also released a Luminor Submersible with a bronze case,
an alloy of copper and tin that is particularly resistant to salt
water. Its aesthetic advantage is that it acquires an interesting
patina over time, which gives it a vintage look. (Top)
The case of the Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback chronograph

is made of alchrom, an alloy of aluminum and steel that is
lighter than steel, but just as hard. Since the base metal is
aluminum, it can be anodized rather than PVD coated. So
the color of the metal is changed rather than coated. The
result here is an edgy black finish. The material is great for
adventure watches; in fact, a special “Pole to Pole” edition
of the watch is being made to commemorate the upcoming
three-month journey from the North Pole to the South Pole
by Swedish explorer Johan Ernst Nilson.
In the quest for an even greater clarity of sound from its

minute repeaters Breguet has created something it unofficially
calls “liquid metal,” as a kind of secondary casing around the
movement of its new striking watch, the Hora Mundi. The
coating, an anthracite grey alloy of platinum-related metals,
amplifies the sound of the hammers striking the gongs.
Chanel, having put ceramic on the map with the introduction

of the J12 a decade ago, has now developed a ceramic/titanium
alloy that is diamond polished, which it calls chromatic. The
ceramic, says Chanel, is yttrium-based rather than mineral-
based, which makes it 20 per cent harder and more scratch-
resistant (and more difficult to finish – diamonds are set into
white gold, rather than directly into the chromatic case).
It is also 5 per cent lighter than traditional ceramic, and is
thermo-neutral. This year Chanel also created a ceramic
rotor. (Middle)
Montblanc has entered the realm of new materials with a

dual-carbon treated case, introduced in its TimeWalker Dual
Carbon series. The case is finished with a special thermal
carbon treatment in addition to the standard DLC (diamond-
like carbon) finish, making it intensely durable and scratch-
resistant.
Harry Winston uses its own trademarked zalium, an alloy of

aluminum and zirconium, on its Project Z series of watches.
The material is similar to the zirconium-based alloy used in
aeronautical engineering because of its hardness. Combined
with aluminum, zirconium is hypo-allergenic and corrosion-
resistant, making zalium highly durable. It is also lightweight,
and is known for its lustrous gunmetal finish. (Bottom) [CJ]
XX-XX.CJ_WatchMaterials.indd 79 5/12/11 1:18:15 PM

The
Industry
of Fakes Counterfeit watches are boosting
a $650-billion criminal business
By Cpl. Kelly Ross
In 1996, JVC entered into a partnership with the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Thus began JVC’s commitment to assist and support law enforcement. Much
has transpired over the past 15 years. Having just returned from a jewellery crime awareness training forum at RCMP Headquarters, I am encouraged by the
level of engagement and interest shown by the RCMP members who participated. Cpl. Kelly Ross led the forum with his vast expertise and knowledge of our
industry. Among the many topics covered, copyright infringement was front and centre. Cpl. Ross shares his knowledge and observations on this issue.
Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC
XX-XX.CJ_JVC.indd 80 5/12/11 1:21:34 PM

jvcfeature
I
n the village square of Nassau, Bahamas, is an artisanal market. Tented The I.P.R. holder is victim of these crimes, as are the people who purchase
from the sun and housing hundreds of street vendors, one can find counterfeit goods believing they are the genuine articles. By some estimates
unique handcrafted vacation souvenirs for any collection. Dispersed this global theft of rights holders’ property is valued at approximately
within the same market are dozens of vendors that peddle counterfeit US$650 billion annually. While these numbers illustrate the magnitude of
merchandise the likes of brand names such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci crime faced by the I.P.R holders and the public, what is hard to gauge – but
and Rolex. Ironically, the historical Pirate Museum, only a block away clearly an issue – is the peripheral damage that extends to legitimate goods
from the market, would suggest that piracy had been eliminated in the retailers. While the luxury watch market has seen excellent growth in the
19th century. One block in the other direction is a genuine Rolex dealer. past decade, it could be expected that counterfeit watches would have a
negative impact on the sales of the genuine watches. As such, the loss of
By modern-day definition in Mirriam-Webster’s dictionary, piracy sale of a genuine watch impacts beyond the sale of legitimate goods and
includes “the unauthorized use of another’s production, invention, or extends potential losses to accessories and future sales of other products
conception, esp. in infringement of copyright.” At the Nassau market, one and services.
vendor displays dozens of counterfeit Rolex and Gucci watches on a table
at one of the most visible and desirable locals. The table of watches is not In Canada, the RCMP deals with counterfeit watches and other counterfeit
hidden from view nor located away in a dark corner of the market. It is merchandise through its Federal Enforcement Sections and Customs and
perfectly situated to intercept the tourists arriving by way of water taxi and Excise Units. Often the RCMP, working with the Canada Border Services
cruise boat. A closer look at the so-called Rolex watches reveals they are Agency (CBSA), can identify and prosecute those who engage in this
counterfeit. They have many of the Rolex markings and even a hang tag criminal activity. However, assistance from the jewellery industry and the
that says Rolex. “How much for the Rolex watch?” I ask. “It’s $65,” says the public is also very important in flushing out the manufacturers and vendors
vendor while handing it to me. He doesn’t bother to tell me it is a fake. I of counterfeit goods. In addition, any successful prosecution requires the
tell him, “A buddy of mine says I can get these for $30 in the market.” He I.P.R. holder to assist police with authenticating goods seized, to confirm
says, “Not $30, you can have it for $45.” I told him I’d think about it, but they are counterfeit. [CJ]
before I left he let me take a picture of the table of watches.
Cpl. Kelly Ross is the coordinator of the “K” Division Diamond Program of
Counterfeit goods are certainly not limited to the Bahamas and Canada, the RCMP and is based in Edmonton, Alberta.
and the rest of the world is not immune to this problem. High-value,
brand-named watches are common targets of counterfeit manufacturers,
and can be found at brick-and-mortar retail locations, flea markets and
increasingly through Internet sales.
The sale of counterfeit goods can involve the criminal offences of theft
and fraud. The theft is in fact the theft of the copyright that is owned by
the copyright holder. In general, a product name, logo, design
or other creation made by someone is considered the
creator’s property. Specifically, this is known as
Intellectual Property Rights (I.P.R.) and the owner
of the I.P.R has the right to use it in the manufacture
and sale of their wares. In this respect, if someone
engages in unauthorized use of another’s I.P.R.,
then there has likely been theft of that intellectual
property. The fraud can occur when someone sells
a counterfeit article as the genuine goods. However,
there are some who know that what they are purchasing is,
in fact, counterfeit. Perhaps part of the problem is that the simple
possession of these goods is not a crime under the Copyright Act.
XX-XX.CJ_JVC.indd 81 5/12/11 1:23:48 PM

JCK and Couture
shows offer something for all
Excitement builds around new products debuting at the Las Vegas shows in June
BY CAROL BESLER
C
anadian retailers, who attend the JCK Show in Las Vegas in droves
(1,000 Canucks attended last year), have high expectations this
year. In this post-recessionary market, with the price of gold
soaring, the word on everyone’s shopping list is value, or as Ottawa retailer
Judy Richards of Davidson’s Jewellers, says, “Big look, small price!” She
adds: “For the under $1,000 market,” a segment that is growing in both
quantity of brands and quality of workmanship. Others are aiming
to strengthen relationships with existing suppliers and lock up co-op
promotion and advertising deals for the coming year. “My goal is to expand
my brand offerings, possibly add a new watch line, and to network with
other retailers,” says Pat Thompson of Diamond Design in St. John’s. Of
course, the main goal is to search the JCK, LUXURY and Couture shows
for trends and new materials, including the many new alloys and platings
emerging in the market. Here is a sampling of some of the new products
coming to Las Vegas for the June shows. This is only a small selection of
the thousands of new products launching at the show, and the only way to
ensure you don’t miss anything is to attend!
Stuller is launching its White Dura Tungsten™
and Dura Cobalt™ collections, new alloys that While the Couture Show remains at its usual venue this year – the Wynn
are scratch resistant and color fast. Stuller is Hotel, June 2-6 – the JCK Show occupies a new venue, at Mandalay Bay,
exhibiting in the Plumb Club at JCK Show.
June 3-6, with LUXURY at JCK from May 31 to June 6 also at Mandalay
Bay. The show floor will be reorganized according to product groupings,
and exhibitors can be searched at http://www.jcklasvegasshow.com/en/For-
Buyers/Find-Exhibitors. [CJ]
XX-XX.CJ_JCK.indd 82 5/12/11 2:01:17 PM

showpreview
18k rose gold ring with cognac and white

icy diamonds, by Hellmuth. (JCK Show)
Baroque South Sea and fresh water

pearls with pink sapphire or yellow
sapphire clasp from the Pastel
Collection by Yvel. (Couture Show)
Diamond snake wrap bracelet

by Amrapali. (JCK Show)
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XX-XX.CJ_JCK.indd 83 5/12/11 2:01:49 PM

Excellence In Design_NEW.qxd:Layout 1 5/16/11 9:19 AM Page 1
The Annual E XCELLENCE iN
design
Award Ceremony & Reception
To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact Olivier Felicio
at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.
For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact Melanie Seth at melanie@rivegauchemedia.com or 416-203-7900 X 6114.
NEW! Entry deadline is July 8th, 2011, 5 p.m. *Enter online as well at www.canadianjeweller.com
2011 Categories
1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS: Any piece of jewellery that puts diamonds or coloured diamonds in the spotlight.
Each design must have a minimum diamond content of 1 carat.
2. CANADIAN DIAMONDS: Entries must feature Canadian diamonds and be accompanied by certification attesting to each diamond’s Canadian ori-
gin. Smaller accent stones need not be Canadian.
3. PEARLS: The central design element in these entries must be natural pearls. Other gemstones and diamonds can be used
as accent stones.
4. PLATINUM: The overall metal content of these designs must be a minimum of 75 percent platinum, but any combination
of gemstones and gold may be used.
5. COLOURED GEMSTONES: These entries, which must feature coloured gemstones as the central design element, will be
judged on creativity
Excellence In Design_NEW.qxd:Layout 1 5/16/11 9:20 AM Page 2
ENTER CANADIAN JEWELLER’S

EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION
DESIGNER ’ S NAME
COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION
ADDRESS CITY
PROVINCE POSTAL CODE
PHONE FAX
EMAIL ADDRESS
CATEGORY
TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN ( SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS )
Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied
by technical details.)
ENCLOSED IS : MY FINISHED PIECE ( S ) OF JEWELLERY.

AN ENTRY FEE OF $30 ( CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA .)
I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.
SIGNATURE
SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.
RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION

• Jewellery must have been designed and made in insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your • Winning entries and all information provided about
Canada. own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, the entries may be used for promotional purposes.
• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must theft or damage for the duration of the competition. Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the de-
adhere to the criteria set out in each category. • In each category, three finalists will be selected. signs, as well as press releases, will also be used for
• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are Judges will then choose an overall winner in this purpose.
not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for each category. Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, cre-
diamonds. • To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and ativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.
• One submission per designer, per category. a $30 fee for each package. Consideration will also be given to marketability.
• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and • Entry deadling is July 8th, 2011, 5 p.m.
jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable • Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of
precautions while the jewellery is in our possession, the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact
Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for a Canadian Jeweller representative at (416) 203-7900.
An Ounce of Prevention
is Worth 2,267.9 Carats of Cure.

Arm yourself with knowledge and tools to protect your business.
Get your Crime Prevention Package:
• Access to a database on criminal activity • Alerts on jewellery crime in Canada
• Crime Prevention Manual CD • Access to JVC Security Library
• Crime Prevention Bulletins on effective security procedures
Sign up now at www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca or call 1-800-636-9536
Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.
CriMe PreVention • reSourCe ProteCtion • SAfety AwAreneSS
CJ_JVC.indd 1
0052 JVC CanJewl Jun_JulF.indd 1 5/11/11
4/8/11 10:08:43 AM
8:23:17 AM
showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Summer collection
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Creative Gems layout 4/28/11 5:39 PM Page 1
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Bilingual sales professional, connected with the
Ann-Louise Jewellers is an established retail best Canadian retailers, with extensive experience Opportunity exists for established jewellery Oakville, Ontario jewellery store, established
company based in Vancouver with 14 stores in the fine jewellery industry, is looking for a nice sales agents to take on a huge range of jewellery 30+ years in busy plaza with loyal customer base
throughout B.C and Calgary. We are seeking high quality sterling silver line with a catalogue without having to carry a single sample. Bee and excellent reputation. Turnkey operation
dynamic, performance-driven people who are and good marketing support. Also interested in a jewellery have introduced a revolutionary new with display cases, safes, security system. With
looking for a career opportunity as STORE high quality 14k gold & diamond jewellery line, iPad selling system, which replaces the tradi- or without inventory. Serious enquiries, please
MANAGER. As a retailer with a reputation for imported from Asia.Please call: 514 865 7235 or tional sample range. Approved agents will be email to: Retiring.jeweller@gmail.com
quality and service, our inventory collection email marceldumontet@videotron.ca supplied with a brand new iPad, installed with
includes fine diamond jewellery, giftware and sim card, and software containing a complete
leading watch brands.
range of Bee jewellery.
YOU are a resourceful, hands-on individual with
Bee Jewellery, based in Australia, has now been
strong organizational skills and leadership quali- FOR SALE AGENT / REP WANTED
ties. You are goal oriented and thrive in the retail servicing Canadian customers for more than
environment. You will also have a minimum 3
3 B Best Beauty Buys 10 years, and is already famous for it’s Bee retail Well established company with excellent
years experience in jewellery management. A unique fashion jewellery store of brand name System and unconditional 10 year guarantee on reputation, looking for experienced Sales
Compensation is a competitive salary and bonus all products.
suppliers. Well established business and clientele Representatives across Canada.
package corresponding to the candidate’s back-
ground and experience. Comprehensive benefits for 26 years in Sahali Mall - Kamloops, BC. For Email your inquiry to steven@beejewel.com.au
also offered. more information call Beverly 250-372-3339 or Please call Toll-Free: 1-866-264-9976
Please forward your resume to 250-374-0949 Bee Jewellery - Australia - www.beejewel.com.au
careers@annlouise.ca.

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PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
sectionhead
096 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…
2. Use this quick

1. See product you 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
BY FAX want info on
reference list
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OR MAIL free info number the attached free or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
(it’s also on the ad) info card as you like
CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

24 Gold Group 2 101 Pierre Laurent 71 129
Bulova 3 102 Wengers 73 130
Midas Jewelry 4-5 103 Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 77 131
Stuller 6-7 104 Smokecloak 83 132
TIG Group 8-11 105 Jewellers Vigilance Canada 86 133
Jewelers Mutual Insurance 13 106 JCK Toronto 95 134
Jewelers Mutual Insurance 15 107 Expo Prestige 97 135
Chamilia 17 108 Elle Jewelry 99 136
Rodania 19 109 Mirage Creations 100 137
Butterfly Gem 21 110 Stuller 14 140
PH Design 23 111 Pandora 14 141
Ready Mounts 25 112 Nova Diamonds 14 142
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 27 113 Elle Jewelry 14 143
Image Fifth Avenue 29 114 Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 16 144
Pandora 31 115 PH Design 16 145
Odyssey Time 33 116 Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 16 146
Lega Jewellery 35 117 Ready Mounts 16 147
Banda Canada 37 118 Jewelers Mutual Insurance 17 148
MCD Pearls 38 119 Jewelers Mutual Insurance 17 149
Ambermode 39 120 Bulova 17 150
Rousseau 40 121 24 Gold Group 17 151
Polygon 41 122 Image Fifth Avenue 17 152
Nova Diamonds 43 123 Polygon 18 153
GIA 47 124 Butterfly Gem 18 154
Karat Imports 49 125 Chamilia 18 155
Noble Findings / Tools 50-51 126 GIA 18 156
Rodania 61 127 Midas Jewelry 18 157
*FREE
Muehle-Glashuette 63 128
Info Card & Subscription

To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.
 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine  No, don’t send
STEP 1 STEP 2 To qualify, check circles: Selling area of your store
 under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________  Education
Approximate annual sales volume
 under $500,000
 Retailer
Company Name: ___________________________________________________________  Manufacturer
 $500,000 - $1 million
 $1 million - $5 million
 Wholesaler
Address: _________________________________________________________________  Importer
 Designer
City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________  over $20 million
 Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)
 Other: ________________________________ Categories you personally manage
Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________
 Retailer  Designer
Number of employees at your location
Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13  Gemologist  Supplier
 Manufacturer
Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________ Number of locations: ______________________  Other _________________________________
STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers

JUNE 2011
WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR
EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE Example
DETAILED INFORMATION ON
USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

101
STEP 4
Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8
96.CJ_FaxBack.indd 96 5/12/11 1:44:36 PM

CJ_ExpoPrestige.indd 1
5/11/11 10:10:20 AM
Cherry
lastword
Picking
By Carol Besler
Sometimes just the right combination of colour, cut and imagination results
in a mouthwatering piece of jewellery that looks good enough to eat. This
cascade of rubellites, each surrounded by a halo of diamonds, rubies or pink
sapphires, resembles a luscious cluster of ripe cherries. Designed by Fawaz
Gruosi of de Grisogono, the earrings comprise 16 cabochon-cut rubellites,
167 rubies, 280 pink sapphires and 270 white diamonds. Yum!
082.CJ_LastWord.indd 98 5/12/11 4:14:41 PM

CJ_PajElle.indd 1
5/11/11 10:10:45 AM
Mirage Creations Inc.
221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com
CJ_MIrage.indd 1 5/11/11 10:11:19 AM

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For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 96.

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From the Gemini Collection

THERE IS A MOMENT WHEN IMAGINATION BECOMES INNOVATION.

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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6

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New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs

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From the fashionably modern to the quietly classic, Stuller is the

bridal authority with the most up-to-date styles and solutions in

the industry. We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery, mountings,

and components as well as unique selling tools for customization.

And our unparalleled customer service and overnight delivery always

800-877-7777, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

Visit us at JCK Las Vegas at PC-850 and ET&S 6265.

The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.

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Phone: 1.866.682.6823 Email: pascal@TIGGroup.ca Web: tiggroup.ca

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Phone: 1.866.682.6823 Email: pascal@TIGGroup.com Website: tiggroup.ca

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Phone: 1.866.682.6823 Email: pascal@TIGGroup.ca Web: tiggroup.ca

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Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

and identity per subscription per year (Canada only).

Monthly Specials! email:

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

thieves had meticulously

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Coverage you can count on.

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You picked our cover!

[FEATURES] JUNE/JULY 2011

46. Canada: A Gem Nation 66. a modern classic

52. It runs in the family 78. Best case scenario

58. jewellery redefined 82. jck and couture shows

Correction: Martin Irving – who wrote the mining feature in

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 14 5/12/11 5:24:19 PM

PERSONAL JEWELRY INSURANCE

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[DEPARTMENTS] JUNE/JULY 2011

20. Product showcase 74. the colour of love

32. who’s news 80. The Industry of fakes

42. tight and bright 87. showcase/marketplace

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 16 5/12/11 5:24:54 PM

A ring is passed from generation to generation and becomes a symbol of

What better way to start on this journey than to report on BaselWorld

Photography by McKenzie James; Styling by Kelechi Achonu;

014.CJ_EditorLetter.indd 18 5/16/11 3:05:21 PM

SWISS MADE - www.rodaniacanada.com

RODANIA CANADA INC. Tel.: 514 842-9136

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 96.